I think if your AC system is in the attic then whatever you need to do to lower the attic temperature is it going to be beneficial that doesn’t mean negate Aiir sealing you’re attic. But you have to consider 140° attic provides a substantial heat load on a home and hvac system. There’s duct seepage insulation value radiant heat load and many other considerations. To simply show a smoke draft test and say this is why a fan is dumb is not a full thought.
So if the fan can draw air from the living space, doesn't that mean the hot air in the attic can push into the living space? Wouldn't it be better if the air in the attic was less hot?
This is like saying, well a car's tire could become flat due to nails... car tires suck then... It's not wrong, but it's also not the complete picture. For instance, anecdotally we live in a very hot area, have sealed our house/attic connections and use a vent fan. It has dropped our power bills by as much as 30% during the hot months. (110 degrees + for multiple months.) Sure there are other and better long term solutions. TL:DR say "vent fans suck" is not accurate, saying "attic to living spaces need to be sealed" is much more accurate.
Attic to living space needs to be sealed and properly insulated but most people overlook the necessity of adequate intake ventilation. Ideally your exhaust vents and intake vents in a static system should be balanced 50/50 but to stay on the safe side it doesn't hurt to have a 60/40 split between intake and exhaust where you have more intake available than exhaust to prevent the exhaust from pulling excess air out of the living space. I'm curious how effective a powered intake on one gable combined with a powered exhaust on the opposite gable would be or if anyone has tried it.
I've never heard of reverse stack effect. Something else is making the house go negative with respect to the attic. Bath fan, range hood, dryer, or maybe leaking supply ducts in crawl space. No matter, that is wasting energy too because it's drawing attic air into the conditioned space. Your video is great and it is proof of why airsealing the attic is crucial. Those pull downs need an airtight insulated cover too. 10 sq. ft of pure heatloss and gain.
Ken Field every other appliance was off (I was about to do a blower door test). Check out this article on reverse stack effect. ncidavid.blogspot.com/2013/06/two-story-cooling-problems-and-reverse.html
The attic fan does suck. It did what its supposed to and thats suck air and throw it outside. The attic door was cracked so what did you expect. Not to pull from the house? If the door is broken fix your door or put an insulating cover up there so that it cant pull from the house
@@neilcomparetto5282 Nice received wisdom. They're just as wrong as you are. Seal your shit! It's nearly free, and it's worth doing even with passive ventilation.
What if you have two vents and more vent holes up there ? Our attic has two air vents. 45* angle and about 15 feet apart. The fan will be sucking air from the other vent and other smaller vent holes. The AC is also very close to it.
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare. :)*
Just installed a gable attic fan in the house today. I think its a case by case situation, as we have tons of tree cover and don't really notice the heat inside the house until its dark and cooling off outside (old house 2x3 walls). I plan on putting a supply and return within line sight of each other and running them for a short period of time on a switch from within house.
I have a lot of tree cover most of the year with 10a-2p allowing the most direct sun and most sq. ft. of roof. When there's no, or little, breeze, the attic temp can really rocket up. I've got a gable fan with a thermostat that works great for getting that space cooled down. What this guy is showing is not that the fan is bad, but that it's too big and or pulling more CFM than his venting (soffit, ridge, ?) can handle. And that there are areas that are not well sealed. The objective isn't to suck out all the air in a minute.
Attic fans do suck (literally) but I believe that you can’t just add an attic fan without doing anything else. It’s the same reason why I tell my wife to open up one of the windows when she’s cooking and has the hood fan on. Air has to come from somewhere, it doesn’t just magically appear (what goes out must come in). I think If done correctly, an attic fan and/or whole house fan can do more good than bad. Let me know what you think or if I missed your point completely.
Neil, to create a pressure differential. The goal is to move hot air where it isn’t needed. If you can keep an attic temp at 100 instead of 140 it’ll help keep the house cooler.
macr88 and there lies the problem. Unless the attic ceiling plane is air tight the pressure differential sucks in conditioned air from the living space, which causes outside air to enter the living space. Let’s say the ceiling plane is air tight, now you’re trying to cool a 140° attic with 90° air, when the air temperature isn’t the problem, the heat is coming from the sun (radiant). Besides if the ceiling plane was air tight just add more insulation, who cares what the attic temperature is at that point. Attic ventilation is overrated, more of a wintertime concern.
@@neilcomparetto5282 Nonsense. Excessive attic temp will degrade roofing materials faster, and of course some people use attics for storage. And if your ceiling plane isn't well sealed no amount of insulation is going to stop that superheated air from leaking down into the house. It needn't be perfect, just significantly more resistance than pulling through the eave vents. Sure, doing anything you can to prevent the solar radiation getting in is ideal, but that only goes so far realistically. I guess I'm just an advocate of doing all the details right and not half-assing it. Certainly slapping an exhaust fan on *in isolation* is no better an idea than putting a turbo on an engine with bad ring seal!
i was thinking off installing one right over my pulldown stairs that is in my garage(man cave) with no windows here in florida i do have vented soffits and a ridge vent already in place .Neil Comparetto do you think it will help pull some hotness out of my garage??
I dont understand. If the air from the living room is sucked out, then why not just make more air intake int he living room from outside air? Isnt it a natural ventilation system is it?
Hey Neil question? I have a detached garage that I put all Sheetrock in and insulation walls and ceilings also I have a window ac unit. No gable vents or soffits installed (only 2 roof vents. What can I do will it rune my sheetrock or walls ceiling ?
Looked hot in that attic, what was the temp outside and the temp in the house? Great find here, I never considered the house having so much infultration. Wonder if eventually the house - if being conditioned, will eventually neutralize with the space above (the attic) and more air will be move to the attic from outside instead of the house?
David Roth it wasn’t that hot in the attic, probably 100°. Outside was about 85°, inside was 75°. The greater the temperature difference the greater the infiltration. This link describes reverse stack effect well. ncidavid.blogspot.com/2013/06/two-story-cooling-problems-and-reverse.html
@@anthonyjulson8840 it's a huge issue. Attic ventilation needs to be evenly distributed between intake and exhaust to prevent excess negative pressure in the attic. If your exhaust it trying to pull more air than the intake can provide it will pull warm moist air from the living space into the attic in the winter and cause mold.
@@shibbyrick Why would you be running an attic fan in the winter? I agree that AFAIK moisture/mold from air travelling through spaces like walls is the concern. (and generally pulling a lot of unfiltered exterior air through your house) But what areas run attic fans outside of summer? I thought they were meant to 1) keep attic temps close to ambient therefore reducing heat in the living spaces. 2) limit attic temps to
You can get thin metal tubes... In this case I don’t think it matters too much, the door didn’t seal well naturally, and there are plenty of other holes (top plates, electrical/plumbing penetrations, register boots, etc.)
Awesome video, just passed my AMRT exam and learned about manometers. Do you have a suggestion on cooling a hot Oklahoma small home attic space? Small fan on one gable pulling and another fan on the other end exhausting?
In general, attic ventilation is kinda overrated - it’s main purpose is to prevent condensation on the roof deck in the winter. If you don’t have that it’s probably sufficient. If you have hvac equipment and ducts up there I would consider spray foaming the roofline and making it conditioned space. If there are no ducts - move/remove the insulation, air seal the ceiling plane, add more insulation. Then it doesn’t matter how hot it is because it’s air sealed and insulated from the living space.
@@neilcomparetto5282 We plan to seal it, including the attic access door, remove the HVAC and blown in insulation and replace it with foil faced batt everywhere. Just cooling it down is the obstacle, it hit 170 F up there during the inspection, which of course has led to the HVAC problems. Would the new install of the HVAC just run a flex/supply up there also to cool it, is that your suggestion? Thanks for getting back to btw.
@@neilcomparetto5282 I have watched this, thanks for the link. Appreciate it. I got a question for you. I have a client in Utah who is building a house and the contractor is insistent on using spray foam in the attic. He keeps sweating the R-Value and ice dams and I keep telling him my client is VOC sensitive and find an alternative. As far as that climate zone (Utah) what other insulation do you suggest. Blown in is a no go too, because of the steady particulates that come off it. I was thinking Rock Wool batt style. Maybe you have a link on insulating homes in colder climates?
So you’d rather have heat go into the house then? What’s the difference? Seal the damn attic from the living space first, then the attic fan will make sense later.
HVAC Shop Talk Podcast in short the combination of soffit and ridge vents works best, but you might have to change your expectation of what “works” is. If you’re trying to get the attic temp similar to outside ambient in the summer, good luck. buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-crash-course-in-roof-venting/view
ridge vents leak, in wind driven rain, my new roof, with 50 year OC Premium Cool Duration lifetime/50 year now , roofer won't use ridge vents, prefers the vent units, even the high quality ridge vents he said will leak in wind driven rain. So no ridge just fan and 3 static vent units...he also gives a 20 year no leak warranty, on top of the lifetime OC on the shingles
Robert Martin it can, and often does have a negative effect on energy use and comfort. It will put the attic into a negative pressure causing conditioned air from the living space to enter the attic. When air leaves the living space to outside (attic), it must be replaced with outside air. That outside air is usually hot and humid... Best practice is to air seal and insulate your attic and not care what temperature it is up there. (Hopefully there isn’t any ducts)
@@neilcomparetto5282 when you say there isnt any ducts what do you mean? I have plenty insulation in the attic and there is still a fan up there that is so loud and turns on when its above 100 degrees in the attic. I do have both AC units in the attic too. So i have ducts coming from them down through the ceiling...
Buddy looks like you’ve gots a problem the bests thing I ever did was getting a attic fan ,, my attic stays at about 108 instead of 160 ,,,,, you might want to check your statistics again
Alexis Jankowski that’s the theory, but air is stupid, lazy, and stubborn- it will pull air from all holes (including the living space)... The heat is coming from the sun’s radiation. A better strategy for cooling the attic would be reducing the radiant heat gain.
@@neilcomparetto5282 This is a flaw in that attic that is not sealed. You need to seal it and then all air will come from soffit or eaves vent. Problem solved.
Please get solar attic fan which has far lower wattage & power, most only 12V & 10-50 watts & it won’t suck the air out of the house. The house need seal good also. Electric 120V attic fan is too powerful, it will suck the cold air out of the house behind the hot 🥵 air in the attic.
Colin insulation has nothing to do with it, it doesn’t stop air leakage. If you had great insulation and air sealing does it matter what temperature the attic is?
@@neilcomparetto5282 that's why they seal the attic first it called Air sealing . It's where you seal all the crack between the drywall upstairsyou also see where the walls come together you seal all that up before you blow in insulation in. After you are seal then you blow the insulation on top . You don't want to use the red stuff cuz the r-value is too low . if you didn't air seal your attic and you have insulation in there you got to suck all the insulation to air seal . Also another thing is those fans are for the summertime not the winter time . Off on winter and sealed shut . Sumer time thier open .
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Passive is always better, but not the fans fault attic doesn't have enough intake. Neat to see reverse stack effect!
I think if your AC system is in the attic then whatever you need to do to lower the attic temperature is it going to be beneficial that doesn’t mean negate Aiir sealing you’re attic. But you have to consider 140° attic provides a substantial heat load on a home and hvac system. There’s duct seepage insulation value radiant heat load and many other considerations. To simply show a smoke draft test and say this is why a fan is dumb is not a full thought.
So if the fan can draw air from the living space, doesn't that mean the hot air in the attic can push into the living space? Wouldn't it be better if the air in the attic was less hot?
This is like saying, well a car's tire could become flat due to nails... car tires suck then... It's not wrong, but it's also not the complete picture. For instance, anecdotally we live in a very hot area, have sealed our house/attic connections and use a vent fan. It has dropped our power bills by as much as 30% during the hot months. (110 degrees + for multiple months.) Sure there are other and better long term solutions.
TL:DR say "vent fans suck" is not accurate, saying "attic to living spaces need to be sealed" is much more accurate.
Attic to living space needs to be sealed and properly insulated but most people overlook the necessity of adequate intake ventilation. Ideally your exhaust vents and intake vents in a static system should be balanced 50/50 but to stay on the safe side it doesn't hurt to have a 60/40 split between intake and exhaust where you have more intake available than exhaust to prevent the exhaust from pulling excess air out of the living space. I'm curious how effective a powered intake on one gable combined with a powered exhaust on the opposite gable would be or if anyone has tried it.
So let the attic temperature reach 150 degrees? I don't think so. Seal your attic first buddy. I Like my attic at 108 degrees.
I've never heard of reverse stack effect. Something else is making the house go negative with respect to the attic. Bath fan, range hood, dryer, or maybe leaking supply ducts in crawl space. No matter, that is wasting energy too because it's drawing attic air into the conditioned space. Your video is great and it is proof of why airsealing the attic is crucial. Those pull downs need an airtight insulated cover too. 10 sq. ft of pure heatloss and gain.
Ken Field every other appliance was off (I was about to do a blower door test). Check out this article on reverse stack effect.
ncidavid.blogspot.com/2013/06/two-story-cooling-problems-and-reverse.html
The attic fan does suck. It did what its supposed to and thats suck air and throw it outside. The attic door was cracked so what did you expect. Not to pull from the house? If the door is broken fix your door or put an insulating cover up there so that it cant pull from the house
Jimmy P www.energyvanguard.com/blog/38676/Don-t-Let-Your-Attic-Suck-Power-Attic-Ventilators-Are-a-Bad-Idea
@@neilcomparetto5282 Nice received wisdom. They're just as wrong as you are. Seal your shit! It's nearly free, and it's worth doing even with passive ventilation.
Need a good seal on that attic door. Great flow test.
What if you have two vents and more vent holes up there ? Our attic has two air vents. 45* angle and about 15 feet apart. The fan will be sucking air from the other vent and other smaller vent holes. The AC is also very close to it.
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare. :)*
Just installed a gable attic fan in the house today. I think its a case by case situation, as we have tons of tree cover and don't really notice the heat inside the house until its dark and cooling off outside (old house 2x3 walls). I plan on putting a supply and return within line sight of each other and running them for a short period of time on a switch from within house.
i agree. i think you need a gable fan out and gable inlet on the other side of the attic. That shouldn't create a vacuum in the attic
I have a lot of tree cover most of the year with 10a-2p allowing the most direct sun and most sq. ft. of roof.
When there's no, or little, breeze, the attic temp can really rocket up. I've got a gable fan with a thermostat that works great for getting that space cooled down. What this guy is showing is not that the fan is bad, but that it's too big and or pulling more CFM than his venting (soffit, ridge, ?) can handle. And that there are areas that are not well sealed. The objective isn't to suck out all the air in a minute.
@@wildcat7266 Yes, and/or soffit vents or ridge vent. There's things wrong with this building and/or fan size/speed.
I think soffit vents can solve the problem
"... and that is why power ventilators suck!" 😂. Great demonstration Neil!
Michael Housh lol, thanks!
Attic fans do suck (literally) but I believe that you can’t just add an attic fan without doing anything else. It’s the same reason why I tell my wife to open up one of the windows when she’s cooking and has the hood fan on. Air has to come from somewhere, it doesn’t just magically appear (what goes out must come in). I think If done correctly, an attic fan and/or whole house fan can do more good than bad. Let me know what you think or if I missed your point completely.
macr88 let me ask you this, what purpose does the attic fan serve?
Neil, to create a pressure differential. The goal is to move hot air where it isn’t needed.
If you can keep an attic temp at 100 instead of 140 it’ll help keep the house cooler.
macr88 and there lies the problem. Unless the attic ceiling plane is air tight the pressure differential sucks in conditioned air from the living space, which causes outside air to enter the living space.
Let’s say the ceiling plane is air tight, now you’re trying to cool a 140° attic with 90° air, when the air temperature isn’t the problem, the heat is coming from the sun (radiant). Besides if the ceiling plane was air tight just add more insulation, who cares what the attic temperature is at that point.
Attic ventilation is overrated, more of a wintertime concern.
Neil, you just have to have ample venting for the attic space and it’ll be fine 👍
People just put them on without proper venting.
@@neilcomparetto5282 Nonsense. Excessive attic temp will degrade roofing materials faster, and of course some people use attics for storage. And if your ceiling plane isn't well sealed no amount of insulation is going to stop that superheated air from leaking down into the house. It needn't be perfect, just significantly more resistance than pulling through the eave vents. Sure, doing anything you can to prevent the solar radiation getting in is ideal, but that only goes so far realistically.
I guess I'm just an advocate of doing all the details right and not half-assing it. Certainly slapping an exhaust fan on *in isolation* is no better an idea than putting a turbo on an engine with bad ring seal!
i was thinking off installing one right over my pulldown stairs that is in my garage(man cave) with no windows here in florida i do have vented soffits and a ridge vent already in place .Neil Comparetto do you think it will help pull some hotness out of my garage??
I dont understand. If the air from the living room is sucked out, then why not just make more air intake int he living room from outside air? Isnt it a natural ventilation system is it?
Hey Neil question? I have a detached garage that I put all Sheetrock in and insulation walls and ceilings also I have a window ac unit. No gable vents or soffits installed (only 2 roof vents. What can I do will it rune my sheetrock or walls ceiling ?
Looked hot in that attic, what was the temp outside and the temp in the house? Great find here, I never considered the house having so much infultration. Wonder if eventually the house - if being conditioned, will eventually neutralize with the space above (the attic) and more air will be move to the attic from outside instead of the house?
David Roth it wasn’t that hot in the attic, probably 100°. Outside was about 85°, inside was 75°. The greater the temperature difference the greater the infiltration. This link describes reverse stack effect well.
ncidavid.blogspot.com/2013/06/two-story-cooling-problems-and-reverse.html
would there be a vacuum in the attic if there was a gable fan at one end and a gable inlet of equal size at the other end of the attic?
I wouldn't think that would be an issue. I'm not a contractor or anything at all though.
@@anthonyjulson8840 it's a huge issue. Attic ventilation needs to be evenly distributed between intake and exhaust to prevent excess negative pressure in the attic. If your exhaust it trying to pull more air than the intake can provide it will pull warm moist air from the living space into the attic in the winter and cause mold.
@@shibbyrick Why would you be running an attic fan in the winter?
I agree that AFAIK moisture/mold from air travelling through spaces like walls is the concern. (and generally pulling a lot of unfiltered exterior air through your house)
But what areas run attic fans outside of summer? I thought they were meant to 1) keep attic temps close to ambient therefore reducing heat in the living spaces. 2) limit attic temps to
Is there a way to test pressure but not have that red hose causing that big gap in the pull down ladder? Doesn't that throw off the reading?
You can get thin metal tubes... In this case I don’t think it matters too much, the door didn’t seal well naturally, and there are plenty of other holes (top plates, electrical/plumbing penetrations, register boots, etc.)
Awesome video, just passed my AMRT exam and learned about manometers. Do you have a suggestion on cooling a hot Oklahoma small home attic space? Small fan on one gable pulling and another fan on the other end exhausting?
In general, attic ventilation is kinda overrated - it’s main purpose is to prevent condensation on the roof deck in the winter. If you don’t have that it’s probably sufficient.
If you have hvac equipment and ducts up there I would consider spray foaming the roofline and making it conditioned space.
If there are no ducts - move/remove the insulation, air seal the ceiling plane, add more insulation. Then it doesn’t matter how hot it is because it’s air sealed and insulated from the living space.
@@neilcomparetto5282 We plan to seal it, including the attic access door, remove the HVAC and blown in insulation and replace it with foil faced batt everywhere. Just cooling it down is the obstacle, it hit 170 F up there during the inspection, which of course has led to the HVAC problems.
Would the new install of the HVAC just run a flex/supply up there also to cool it, is that your suggestion?
Thanks for getting back to btw.
@@amv_pure not sure if you’ve seen this… if you haven’t you’ll come away knowing a lot more about attics.
th-cam.com/video/Ld8pzIu45F8/w-d-xo.html
@@neilcomparetto5282 Joe is the man, thanks for the link. Most appreciated.
@@neilcomparetto5282 I have watched this, thanks for the link. Appreciate it. I got a question for you. I have a client in Utah who is building a house and the contractor is insistent on using spray foam in the attic. He keeps sweating the R-Value and ice dams and I keep telling him my client is VOC sensitive and find an alternative. As far as that climate zone (Utah) what other insulation do you suggest. Blown in is a no go too, because of the steady particulates that come off it. I was thinking Rock Wool batt style. Maybe you have a link on insulating homes in colder climates?
That thumbnail hurts my feelings. Somebody please cover up that excess gable vent around the fan 😢...
So you’d rather have heat go into the house then? What’s the difference? Seal the damn attic from the living space first, then the attic fan will make sense later.
Good video. Ridge vent best?
HVAC Shop Talk Podcast in short the combination of soffit and ridge vents works best, but you might have to change your expectation of what “works” is. If you’re trying to get the attic temp similar to outside ambient in the summer, good luck.
buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-crash-course-in-roof-venting/view
RJParker an argument can be made for a vented attic when mechanical systems are not present, but encapsulating checks a lot of boxes.
ridge vents leak, in wind driven rain, my new roof, with 50 year OC Premium Cool Duration lifetime/50 year now , roofer won't use ridge vents, prefers the vent units, even the high quality ridge vents he said will leak in wind driven rain. So no ridge just fan and 3 static vent units...he also gives a 20 year no leak warranty, on top of the lifetime OC on the shingles
@@neilcomparetto5282 thanks for the info and articles …..
Crawlspace fans also. Had two last year making a fireplace backdraft
Clint Glasgow wow, good find! Thankfully they are not common here.
Surely, powered attic ventilators 'blow' not suck?
So explain please. So the fan is bad?
Robert Martin it can, and often does have a negative effect on energy use and comfort. It will put the attic into a negative pressure causing conditioned air from the living space to enter the attic. When air leaves the living space to outside (attic), it must be replaced with outside air. That outside air is usually hot and humid... Best practice is to air seal and insulate your attic and not care what temperature it is up there. (Hopefully there isn’t any ducts)
@@neilcomparetto5282 when you say there isnt any ducts what do you mean? I have plenty insulation in the attic and there is still a fan up there that is so loud and turns on when its above 100 degrees in the attic. I do have both AC units in the attic too. So i have ducts coming from them down through the ceiling...
maybe you need more hole side of the house
It doesn't do that if you have plenty of intake vents
Buddy looks like you’ve gots a problem the bests thing I ever did was getting a attic fan ,, my attic stays at about 108 instead of 160 ,,,,, you might want to check your statistics again
What are you using for the steam?
Roberto Ganoza discontinued “smoke” puffer from Retrotec.
Neil Comparetto thank you!
That was the purpose of attic fan. To pull out hot air in the attic.
INDO KEREN to pull conditioned air into the attic from the living space? Where does the air come from that replaces the conditioned air?
@@neilcomparetto5282 You need to sealed the air leak. Problem solved.
Neil Comparetto I thought that air was supposed to come from soffit vents to pull out the hotter air?
Alexis Jankowski that’s the theory, but air is stupid, lazy, and stubborn- it will pull air from all holes (including the living space)... The heat is coming from the sun’s radiation. A better strategy for cooling the attic would be reducing the radiant heat gain.
@@neilcomparetto5282 This is a flaw in that attic that is not sealed. You need to seal it and then all air will come from soffit or eaves vent. Problem solved.
Explain why
That’s certainly an accurate statement unless you reverse and point it into the attic, then it blows!
Aren't you AC technicians that should all know this
The attic fan works with proper venting,
Only an idiot would put an exhaust fan in a sealed room unexpected proper heat transfer
Please get solar attic fan which has far lower wattage & power, most only 12V & 10-50 watts & it won’t suck the air out of the house. The house need seal good also. Electric 120V attic fan is too powerful, it will suck the cold air out of the house behind the hot 🥵 air in the attic.
have u had one before??
They're only bad if your house is poorly insulated
Colin insulation has nothing to do with it, it doesn’t stop air leakage. If you had great insulation and air sealing does it matter what temperature the attic is?
@@neilcomparetto5282 that's why they seal the attic first it called Air sealing . It's where you seal all the crack between the drywall upstairsyou also see where the walls come together you seal all that up before you blow in insulation in. After you are seal then you blow the insulation on top . You don't want to use the red stuff cuz the r-value is too low . if you didn't air seal your attic and you have insulation in there you got to suck all the insulation to air seal . Also another thing is those fans are for the summertime not the winter time . Off on winter and sealed shut . Sumer time thier open .
@@neilcomparetto5282 it sucks the 140 F temps out if the atic
Colin www.energyvanguard.com/blog/38676/Don-t-Let-Your-Attic-Suck-Power-Attic-Ventilators-Are-a-Bad-Idea
actic door isnt even shut all the way look at that shity trim also
Put one on one end pulling in and one on the other side pushing out, run them on the same switch, stupid.
Just vent the soffits problem solved.
43 dislikes from the people who don’t understand negative pressure smh