I just can't thin out and discard a healthy seedling. I gently separate them when I upsize the pot. I have co-workers who are happy to take my extra seedlings. I gave away about 20-25 pepper and tomato seedlings last spring.
Peppers, for some reason, do better when planted in pairs in the same hole. It keeps from discarding all those seedling and get more produce. I've talked to the seed companies about starting a mini-size, say .35 / seed. Most folks only want a few and they could make a lot more. Zero response.
I don't have a fancy setup and anything I start indoors dies of fungus damping off. My cheaap solution: I put my starter pots outside in the sun during the day when it is warm enough and take them in at night or when it is too cold or rainy. The sun disinfects the soil and prevents damping off before the plants sprout and helps keep the plants stout and green and healthy and prevent legginess after they sprout. It also means my starts are pretty well hardened off even to start with.
Been planting peppers for decades. Never add fertilizer to starting seed mix, plant two to a unit (for some reason peppers excel when planted in pairs), start hardening when the seeds are tiny and strongest. I take those large aluminum pans, place my "Bootstrap" pods in 1/2 inch of water and start. Far easier and quicker than waiting until they are blooming before going through the process. Love the channel.
@@lmlmlmlm7627 I usually plant in pairs for peppers but then always against a wall where I stake out the stems. I keep the insides clean to avoid damp problem and occasionally add a front stake. It also depends on the type. SHishito, jalapeno, etc are singular.
Another big advantage of a fan is that it makes it a lot harder on fungus gnats to maneuver and infest your pots (as well as drying the top of the soil to make it less attractive to fungus gnats).
I put my seedling mix in a bucket and pour boiling water in it to kill the fungus gnat eggs and larvae. Once it has cooled I plant my seeds as usual. No fungus gnats!
Interestingly this year the fungus gnats don't seem to be sustaining themselves. The adults emerging from the soil either are too few, or my fans and top-dressing with non-fungus-gnat-friendly soil mixed with cinnamon powder, seem to be preventing them from maintaining a population. I was concerned a couple of weeks ago, but I keep potting soil in closed containers and it seems the emergence of fungus gnats from that soil was a short-term problem. Or maybe the combination of several techniques makes their population dwindle faster than it can grow (covered soil, top dressing, yellow stickies, fans, watering schedule with weighing the pots).
When I learned to snip my seedlings down it was just that, to snip them. Lifting the plant out as you show disrupts the root structures, so just snip them with scissors. Kinda like how you do in your garden, trim the top; leave the roots as food for others.
I bought that EXACT same grow light with the clip on as in this video. I also bought it on Amazon last year. Good price, around €25 in Germany, where I live. I love this grow light, for it has a timer that can be set which turns it on and off at the same time every day. Set it once and forget it. A very cost effective way to grow on a tabletop or shelf. Love it. Have also used it for growing tomatoes and overwintering peppers. I found 5 to 6 inches is the perfect distance for plants. More and they get leggy; less and they burn. I found that as soon as the cotyledon pops out of the ground, take them out of the heated area and put them under the grow light.
I like to use last years potting soil, sifted through a small mesh and then saturated with boiling water for my seed mix. The boiling water kills off pests and most pathogens and it has just a little bit of nutrition left in it so its good to feed seedlings while not being too rich for them.
You should bake the soil on a baking sheet in an oven instead. Watering with boiling water wont do much. It cools too fast. Baking soil in the oven on the other hand will kill anything and everything living in your soil.
I have an electric door opener in my garage. My seedlings go on a shelving unit with the grow lights (using an extension cord) near the door at hardening off time. I simply open the door for the time needed for each day for outdoor exposure and then close the door and turn on the lights. That way I'm not carrying all the trays in and out and in and out and in and out . . .
As always, VERY HELPFUL. Thanks. Patience! I cannot stress this one enough. I am in my 5th pepper growing year. It took me my first two years to learn that Tiny Pepper seedlings are slow growers. I know we're supposed to view each of our seedlings the same, but I spent my first couple years, comparing them to their Tomato Seedling Cousins... and sure, I am a bad Gardening Parent! To my utter shame, I asked them, many a time, "Why can't you grow like your tomato cousins do?"
@@PepperGeek I started my Peppers Feb 15th, and today Mar12th is Tomato Seed starting day. What a difference 3 years of learning can make. Shame I didn't find you guys then.
I have a spot I've set aside for the "perpetual volunteer tomato" plant. Several years ago, I planted a single cherry tomato from the garden center. It grew well, although I didn't do much to care for it. I enjoyed the tomatoes, but also let many fall and rot in the soil. The following year, some tomatoes started growing there without any help from me. Got the same treatment. I am now deliberately letting some tomatoes fall and rot, and I get new plants every year. This year, I'm tending it a bit more. I started by turning a bag of compost into the soil there over the winter, and the volunteers have come up again. They're already 2 feet tall and over the top of the tomato cage. Even transplanted one volunteer into a new spot - although I plan to keep fallen tomatoes picked up there. By contrast, my pepper seedlings are still getting hardened off. Hope to get some outdoors permanently next weekend. I'll put a couple into pots and keep the rest going in and out. Our weather is unusually cool this year, so I've got peppers ready to go out, but I don't want to put them out quite yet. Still have some low temps in the high 40s this week.
If purchasing plants(all plants not just chiles) from any hardware store and most nurseries, immediately give them a dose of soluble high phosphate fertilizer. One of the tricks used by commercial producers to prevent stretching during periods of cloudy weather is to make them deficient in P after achieving the desired initial growth. Which makes a plant that looks compact and healthy but if not corrected it will have slow growth.
I bought a cheap greenhouse and it’s fantastic for hardening off. Protects them from strong winds and something about that plastic tames the sun so it doesn’t hurt them. After a week in the greenhouse they’re ready to go in the ground.
I over wintered the best of my pepper plants in fall of last year. They're coming out of dormancy now and sprouting all over the stems like a bush. I'm pretty excited to have such a huge big start this year with peppers
I’m in central SC and have only been gardening for about 5 years. I’ve found the best pest control for peppers in my area is Neem oil once a week for as long as the pests are relevant. Thanks for the tips!
So glad I stumbled across y'all's channel. We have been gardening for a few years now and have always had mixed results when it came to our pepper plants. We look forward to learning more.
I wait until after my last frost date to start the seeds indoors. Once they sprout, it's warm enough outside for them, so I put them in a sunny spot outside. Once they've grown their true leaves and begin to branch out, I plant them in the ground. Since I put the seedlings outside on day one, they don't require any hardening off.
Good idea that fan. I bought two, that was time growing in the soil. After the surface got dry plants grew great ! But when it got dry the small small dirt started to fly on the air and i was inside eyes red, full of that tiny tiny dirt. Lesson learned. Now all my plants are grown in the water.
Haha, many of the things you mentioned here are things that I had to learn on my own through trial and error and got lucky that I experimented with some of these techniques and found they worked, and some other things you mentioned are things that I in fact learned from other experienced pepper Growers on TH-cam. One thing that I found out this year that I had never heard anybody mention before that goes along with using a fan in my grow box, is that I found that my plants seem to breathe much better when I not only have a small fan blowing down from an angle from overhead, but I have another small fan that I integrated on the opposite side of my grow box down low at container level allowing the air to also exit the grow box so there is circulation fresh air that is going through the top middle and bottoms of the plants because before I did this, my plants were beginning to lose a lot of foliage, and I honestly did not actually know why but my suspicion was that the old air and carbon dioxide was not getting circulated out towards the bottoms of the plants which is where I began to lose a lot of leaves, so I thought maybe the leaf drop it was from them suffocating in their own waste, but as soon as I put that extra fan at the opposite side at the bottom, Leaf Dropage immediately slow down to a halt, and it has not been a problem since.
Hi, thanks for sharing this info. How long do you keep the fan on in your grow bawx per day? I have a 3 rack grow tent, do i need one fan for each of the racks, or maybe just one fan at the bottom pulling air in and one at the top pushing air out?
I think I see some Bootstrap farmer trays in the background. I like the look of their stuff but I can't decide what specifically to get. It would be awesome if you guys could come up with a few lists of products to make "kits" for various scenarios or use cases like "seed starter starter kit" and "I live in a shoebox" or even "go big or go home". Even something as simple as showing us your favorite products of theirs would be cool.
@@TwistedRootsVanVelzerPress Don’t be silly. Those are reusable containers, and they are not leaking. Harmful chemicals into your “food,” nor are they putting chemicals and poisons into your plants in any appreciable quantity.
I was told this a long time ago with potted peppers. That you should not prune it until the roots start to become root bound, this will start to cause the branches to turn inward toward the trunk as they grow. Cut those branches off and this will allow the lower growth to start growing. I am not sure if it is beneficial or not, but I have seen the behaviour of the branches growing inward in potted pepper plants.
Hi I started growing peppers this year, I'm in the UK and my seedlings are struggling, they have only 1set of leaves so far and been up for over a month I don't have access to the lighting or heat mats, I do bottom water and throw unwanted water.
Here's my mistake for '22/'23: Since I start my peppers and tomatoes in mid October, I decided to experiment with cutting back this year. I planted everything three to a pot, and pruned back at the FIRST set of true leaves. The idea was that I had plenty of time for them to recuperate if I cut too soon. My big mistake was doing this to every plant and not leaving at least a third as control subjects. What I learned is that the Big Berthas loved it and bushed out like I wanted. Well they all did, but the BB also grew vigorously. The Cubanelles are half and half; some taller, some not really. The Chocolate Beauties I learned, do not like to be pruned AT ALL!!! Even the one I wintered over, is not really growing back with much vigor. Bottom line is: Experiment with only a certain percentage, in the event something goes horribly wrong. They are all fruiting immensely; I've been pinching the pearls off for the past two months, but the Chocolates are going to be very dwarf in size now. I will not prune those again. Now, once everything goes in the ground this weekend, they may take off. They may be confined in the pots, and I have not fertilized them at all since I planted them into my pure compost.
thanks to remember us what to take care. btw, Khang Starr has a nice video on how to separate seedlings usinng whater to prevent roots on being damaged..
Once in the ground, use Masterblend 4-18-38, Calcium Nitrate, Epson Salt and Sea-90 minerals. I did last year and was AMAZED! Massive quantities and quality was A-1.
I was actually planning on buying seed starters today, but the nursery was closed when I got there. Glad I ended up seeing this video first, great tips, and hopefully great stuff from the bootstrap farmer. I’m going to try out their grow bags, and seed starters
Great to see you pop into my feed again! Still waiting for the sunshine in the UK, though day time temperatures are moving up now at last. Had my mixed batch of seedlings outside during daylight hours since Thursday and only one from about 30 looked a bit poorly. It bounced back OK under the lamp. Still too cold to leave out overnight, but it's not going to be before long now. Mustn't forget to bring them in, that'd be a disaster with 70kph winds predicted for tonight. All the best everyone 💪
I recommend doing some of your plants pruned and some not pruned to see if there is a difference in yield or growth, when I started to prune my pepper plants they did much better
fan.. I have to get a fan in there. Here's what I've done so far. I germinate in 50mm peat pellets. As soon as they sprout, I peal those pellets and put them right in 32 ounce yogurt cups for the duration until they go outside. I have them first, inside an east facing window (southern windows are all shaded) and under lights.. just recently went to 16 hours since the ones I have, the longest timer setting is 12 hours and that's where I was with them. The only pruning I've ever done is if a branch gets damaged. I'm going in grow bags this year.. our hard-pack is just too dense to get plants going in the ground. Between that and the rhizome grass here.. I'm better off in containers.
This may sound silly, but keep a trap/sentinel plant if you've had pest issues. I find aphids will preferentially attack borage over just about anything else, so I can keep an eye on it for infestations then subject it to constant leaf handling and neem oil spraying instead of roughing up the plants I care about. Especially seedlings. Still have to mind the others of course, but it's nice to have something that can take a beating.
I keep on asking people about my garage, it is still cold in there, maybe below 50 degrees, sometimes. Everyone says to take the pepper seedlings off the heating mat. But like said it is cold. All my seedlings are up, but I think they slow down growing because of it so cold
Thanks Pepper Geek, trying my neon green thumb at guajillo pepper plants and your tips and caution's to be aware of are a nice help. They should enjoy the company of my pineapple plants...
Yours are beautiful. Q .How much time during the day do you recommend using a fan for pepper seedlings. Q. What distance from the seedling are yours. Planted ours on heat mats under grow full spectrum on Feb 26th, 2nd leaves are starting. Bottom watering w. very weal rain water compost tea. Thank you for your guidance. You are much appreciated.
About lights: I used cheap 10W LED lights the last two months for my seedlings and it helped to get about 30 healthy small plants. As the sun comes out more often meanwhile I relocated all pots to my windowsill. The smaller plants I put back to the LED lights in the evening. Now I am wondering: what is generally better, diffuse daylight or low power LEDs?
Late replying here but I hope my experience in the rainy, cloudy, chilly northwest of England can help. We rarely see the sun on a regular basis, except for an unreliable few weeks in midsummer, maybe. I, too, only have a low wattage grow light and windowsills. What I do is have my pepper seedlings on a southfacing windowsill with the growlight on them _at the same time_ . So they are (currently) getting about 8 hours daylight - sometimes 'bright' daylight, more often 'dull' daylight - _supplemented with_ the LED growlight at the same time, plus another 6 - 8 hours of 'just' the growlight. Free light is valuable, make the most of it! This scheme - diffuse daylight together with a low-powered growlight - has worked for me for several years.
What's the best temperature for pepper seedlings? Once they germinate and get going can they handle cooler temperatures than what they needed to germinate? Thanks!
The generally accepted temperature range for starting pepper seedlings is upper 70’s to 90°F. My seeds were at about 77° on my heating mats and most germinated within a week; even the Carolina Reapers were sprouting by about day 8. . After the plants start growing their first real leaves, within about a week or 10 days, they no longer need to be as warm and should do fine if taken off the heat mats and put into temperatures in the 60s.
@@WisGuy4 thank you! I started mine in my utility room where it’s about 85 degrees. I quickly run out of room when I need to pot them up though. I don’t think my greenhouse is quite warm enough yet so I may need to find a spot in the house first.
I understood that the fan just needed a couple hours . My seedlings get worm casting I am not going buy $300 lights, but the LED garage/shop is going to work good enough. I have beverage containers with 6 inches and good growing room. Great advice, Geeks I have BT against fungus knats Thanks
@@PepperGeek but only if the shop lights are a) LED, not fluorescent; and b) the right color spectrum output of 5,000-6,500 kelvins. I’ve had excellent success using LED shoplights for the past three years.
i just throw a bunch of seeds on a 5 gal pot put it out on the sun, and water em, the weak die the strong thrive. i love Aji peppers they're sooo good.
I tried to subscribe , but , TH-cam says I have too many subscriptions !!!! Keep making gardening videos and I'll keep watching !!!! Thank you very much !!!!
The leaf curl tip is helpful, I think my led light is too close. I using 100w full spectrum, what do you think the height should be in a grow enclosure with reflective walls?
I live in North central NC with very high humidity year round. What can I do to protect my plants and how soon should I start my seeds? This is the first time I’m starting my own from seeds. Also spring here is very rainy for about two weeks and then we have the heat starting in the 80’s and rises fast. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I had about 8 pepper plants that grew like a cucumber plant and were 8 feet long. What would cause this. Your help is always appreciated, thank for all the good info.
I'm running in to the root bind problem now. Normally I can pot up and move them out to my little poly tunnel by now. This unseasonably cold spring has put things behind schedule.
I also no longer prune my peppers, I too found no benefit in doing so, I will remove various leaves, etc, that look diseased but otherwise leave them alone. May 10 is our official last frost day, year before we had frost May 9, I just about lost my plants (they never did grow correct after that, stunted and just not healthy looking). can't start seedlings till April and I'm chomping at the bit to get going.
We have several, but any of the Viparspectra 100-150W lights are good. We have the p1500 and the newer XS1500 Pro models and both are great. Heres some info on the latest one: peppergeek.com/viparspectra-xs1500-pro-led-review
Zone 7a, planted first round of peppers 40 days ago. Will need to move them outside in a week or so. Going to be up under ag-fleece and some plastic sheeting. I have way too many plants lol
Quick question, I just watched another video by a pretty popular youtuber, in which he said he always plants peppers in 2's in each cell, and grows them up as a pair once in the soil. Apparently they will lean on each other for support, and grow better with a bigger root ball shared by both plants. I see you prune to one plant, as I always have; wondering if you have any input on this?
Rather than yoinking the seedling out as shown, clipping close to the base is more safe. If the roots are entwined, pulling could hurt the other seedling.
I'm overwintering two pepper plants from last year, but one of the plants is splitting? Like the stem is opening up a bit on different places. Do you know what I can do?
Do you have any suggestions for holding peppers indoors a bit longer than expected? I've had unusually cool weather for the last month, and I've got peppers that I'm setting outside when the temps are up into the 60s. But there's still plenty of 50 degree days ahead (for the high - lows down to the 40s), so I don't want to put them outside for good yet. They're starting to outgrow their 3" pots, and I don't have room indoors for enough larger containers.
I think you could do 55f. Some even say 50f. This is nighttime temps right? If you have 2 or 3 of one plant, you should experiment. One at each temp: 50, 55, 60 and see how they compare. You don't know until you try.
I found that just taking my plants outside for the hour or more that the temperatures are okay can help pre-harden them a little as well as making up for having to keep them indoors longer than planned. It's a PITA hauling everyone out and in every day, but when I was finally able to plant them out they were ready to go and took off well.
This is the first year I've tried growing from seed. I used a starter kit with a dome and after a week the peppers were long and gangly leaning toward the window. I removed the dome and one of the pods looks like it's completely shriveled up. Can these be saved or should I start over.
hey there, great videos thank you! I am in zone 3 and I want to start growing Jalapenos from seed is mid April too late? I do not have an indoor set up so south facing windows and outside is all I have. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers
It may be on the late side for you but worth a shot. If you plant in containers, you can bring them indoors in the fall if there is an early frost. Jalapeños are fairly quick to be ready to harvest too so go for it!
It’s my first year starting in a tent. Everything looks amazing. My question is when should I discontinue pinching off early flowers to inhibit growth. We’re about 2 weeks from frost free here and my plants are roughly 8-9 inches tall and full of leaves and I even topped the plant to grow branches. But they are budding flowers like crazy. Are they tall and grown enough?
This was really helpful, thank you! I appreciate the reminder to harden off. Congratulations on getting a sponsor and good luck with this year's peppers!
Are you running the fan 24/7? I’ve been only doing it for a couple hours a day because I’m worried about it drying out the soil really bad and also making the seedling too cold.
Yes, I run my fan off a different extension cord than the one with the timer and lights so it goes 24/7. I’d rather have to water once or twice more per week than deal with mold.
I was looking at your video and you talked about a small fan , how long do you keep your fan running . Need to know if as long as the light are on or a few hours each day
Where do y’all get your seeds from? I get you probably harvest a majority from the peppers you grow now but if you start a new breed is there a specific company you get your seeds from?
Hay man 👋🏽! I’m Tom. Quick question hoping you had some insight. Should I plant a bean or two in my pepper plant 🤔 that’ll add nitrogen and also probably help keep the soil more dry down there. Anyway please lmk what you think. I’ve already done it btw. Let me know if you would like an update.
Beans add nitrogen up to a point - I believe they become net-negative on the nitrogen once they begin flowering/producing their pods. Either way, sounds like a good experiment, let me know how it turns out!
They're great! Kind of like a mini habanero, which can be good for metering out the spice in dishes. They tend to produce _a ton_ of pods on each plant, which is great, but harvesting can be a bit of a chore.
I started several pepper seedlings indoors. Something is eating the tops off the seedlings? Other seedlings and vegetables have not been effected. This seems to be happening at night. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Depends on the variety, but yes, that is probably the case. The light isn't too intense, but probably will be if they grow any closer! The dark green tells me they are happy! Think of the red as a natural sunscreen. 👍🙂 I have a tomato growing now which has a white, mottled camouflage-look through the leaves. Looks really neat! Edit: autocorrect loves to switch 'of','if', and 'on'. I wish it would mind its(not 'it's', 😂 ) own business.
@@RealBradMiller You are not wrong to THINK the darker the green the better. But that's the plants STRESSING for sunlight. They are being more productive than they should, just like how someone might be pulling 80 hours a week. You can't assume that 80 hours person is "automatically" twice as financially free as a 40 hours a week is.
@@rickytorres9089 if the plants were getting leggy, and Darren had included that, I may agree, but I have experienced exactly what Darren is describing on some of my peppers in the past, and they were flowering and fruiting indoors wonderfully. 🤷 Perhaps I'd have a different opinion of I could actually view the plants.
@@CL-ty6wp Will keep this in mind, I got a fertility meter combo from Burpee's so I can always mud up some of the vermicompostings and see what's going on if I notices it again somewhere.
I noticed when you were showing the footage regarding the grow lights you had a plant with its root in water (I assume this is a pepper plant). I did not think peppers like wet roots?
I grow chillies in pots and have a 1cm thick seramis layer above the soil so that the fungus gnats cannot lay eggs. this also works with sand. the main thing is that it is non-organic and moist
Hi! new subscriber here and a very specific question. We leave for vacation in early August and return the end of September. I can't leave my peppers to fruit unattended while we are gone so I prune them way back with hopes they will resprout and produce in the fall. I've had spotty success with this. Any tips on how hard I should prune them back?
I noticed towards the end of your video, one of the plant has purple-ish cotyledons. Majority of mine are like that. Could it be from lack of nutrients from the seed starting mix? Would fertilizing fix it?
Have a question for you, can't find any answer online. I'm growing cayenne peppers hydroponic with air stone, ppm is right and ph is right, however, the plant keeps dropping the peppers early before ripened. Plant is producing very well but I'm lost on why it's not letting them get ripe. Have other peppers that I'm growing and not having this problem. Please help if you can, or if anyone has any kind of answer would be very much appreciated. 😊
I just can't thin out and discard a healthy seedling. I gently separate them when I upsize the pot. I have co-workers who are happy to take my extra seedlings. I gave away about 20-25 pepper and tomato seedlings last spring.
i'm the same and I collect every seed I can.
I did the same with my tomatoes this year. Now I have almost 90 tomato plants going. I plan to do the same with my peppers
Lol I'm prochoice with humans but I'm pro life with my seedlings 😅 every seed life matters 😂😂
@C L you can't say that to those people, it hurts when you say the truth. Hahaha
Peppers, for some reason, do better when planted in pairs in the same hole. It keeps from discarding all those seedling and get more produce. I've talked to the seed companies about starting a mini-size, say .35 / seed. Most folks only want a few and they could make a lot more. Zero response.
I don't have a fancy setup and anything I start indoors dies of fungus damping off. My cheaap solution: I put my starter pots outside in the sun during the day when it is warm enough and take them in at night or when it is too cold or rainy. The sun disinfects the soil and prevents damping off before the plants sprout and helps keep the plants stout and green and healthy and prevent legginess after they sprout. It also means my starts are pretty well hardened off even to start with.
Been planting peppers for decades. Never add fertilizer to starting seed mix, plant two to a unit (for some reason peppers excel when planted in pairs), start hardening when the seeds are tiny and strongest. I take those large aluminum pans, place my "Bootstrap" pods in 1/2 inch of water and start. Far easier and quicker than waiting until they are blooming before going through the process. Love the channel.
Very helpful information. Thank you. The two to a unit is only while starting them out or also transplanting them? I.e. do you thin down to one?
@@lmlmlmlm7627 I usually plant in pairs for peppers but then always against a wall where I stake out the stems. I keep the insides clean to avoid damp problem and occasionally add a front stake. It also depends on the type. SHishito, jalapeno, etc are singular.
@@smb123211 thank you
@smb123211 - Any idea how to grow chenzo chilli plant from seeds ? Do u let the chilly go from black to red on the plant before sowing the seeds?
I do the same with all seedlings. Gave some to my neighbors and now I've made friends for life😂
Another big advantage of a fan is that it makes it a lot harder on fungus gnats to maneuver and infest your pots (as well as drying the top of the soil to make it less attractive to fungus gnats).
I put my seedling mix in a bucket and pour boiling water in it to kill the fungus gnat eggs and larvae. Once it has cooled I plant my seeds as usual. No fungus gnats!
Interestingly this year the fungus gnats don't seem to be sustaining themselves. The adults emerging from the soil either are too few, or my fans and top-dressing with non-fungus-gnat-friendly soil mixed with cinnamon powder, seem to be preventing them from maintaining a population. I was concerned a couple of weeks ago, but I keep potting soil in closed containers and it seems the emergence of fungus gnats from that soil was a short-term problem. Or maybe the combination of several techniques makes their population dwindle faster than it can grow (covered soil, top dressing, yellow stickies, fans, watering schedule with weighing the pots).
When I learned to snip my seedlings down it was just that, to snip them. Lifting the plant out as you show disrupts the root structures, so just snip them with scissors. Kinda like how you do in your garden, trim the top; leave the roots as food for others.
I bought that EXACT same grow light with the clip on as in this video. I also bought it on Amazon last year. Good price, around €25 in Germany, where I live. I love this grow light, for it has a timer that can be set which turns it on and off at the same time every day. Set it once and forget it. A very cost effective way to grow on a tabletop or shelf. Love it. Have also used it for growing tomatoes and overwintering peppers. I found 5 to 6 inches is the perfect distance for plants. More and they get leggy; less and they burn.
I found that as soon as the cotyledon pops out of the ground, take them out of the heated area and put them under the grow light.
Glad to hear you've enjoyed it as well - who knows how long it will last, but the design is useful and simple
I like to use last years potting soil, sifted through a small mesh and then saturated with boiling water for my seed mix. The boiling water kills off pests and most pathogens and it has just a little bit of nutrition left in it so its good to feed seedlings while not being too rich for them.
You should bake the soil on a baking sheet in an oven instead. Watering with boiling water wont do much. It cools too fast. Baking soil in the oven on the other hand will kill anything and everything living in your soil.
@@CBe-ot8vu can I use the microwave?
I have an electric door opener in my garage. My seedlings go on a shelving unit with the grow lights (using an extension cord) near the door at hardening off time. I simply open the door for the time needed for each day for outdoor exposure and then close the door and turn on the lights. That way I'm not carrying all the trays in and out and in and out and in and out . . .
As always, VERY HELPFUL. Thanks.
Patience! I cannot stress this one enough. I am in my 5th pepper growing year. It took me my first two years to learn that Tiny Pepper seedlings are slow growers. I know we're supposed to view each of our seedlings the same, but I spent my first couple years, comparing them to their Tomato Seedling Cousins... and sure, I am a bad Gardening Parent! To my utter shame, I asked them, many a time, "Why can't you grow like your tomato cousins do?"
Great point - exactly why we start tomato seeds 2-3 weeks _after_ all the peppers!
@@PepperGeek I started my Peppers Feb 15th, and today Mar12th is Tomato Seed starting day. What a difference 3 years of learning can make. Shame I didn't find you guys then.
I have a spot I've set aside for the "perpetual volunteer tomato" plant. Several years ago, I planted a single cherry tomato from the garden center. It grew well, although I didn't do much to care for it. I enjoyed the tomatoes, but also let many fall and rot in the soil. The following year, some tomatoes started growing there without any help from me. Got the same treatment. I am now deliberately letting some tomatoes fall and rot, and I get new plants every year. This year, I'm tending it a bit more. I started by turning a bag of compost into the soil there over the winter, and the volunteers have come up again. They're already 2 feet tall and over the top of the tomato cage. Even transplanted one volunteer into a new spot - although I plan to keep fallen tomatoes picked up there. By contrast, my pepper seedlings are still getting hardened off. Hope to get some outdoors permanently next weekend. I'll put a couple into pots and keep the rest going in and out. Our weather is unusually cool this year, so I've got peppers ready to go out, but I don't want to put them out quite yet. Still have some low temps in the high 40s this week.
As a first year pepper grower thanks for the heads up. I'll be patient with our pepper seedlings 👍
Now I know why my pepper starts died last year!! Too much fertilizer!! Thanks so much!! I had no idea!!
I always had a problem with growth on the soil's surface but would have never thought to get a fan. Thanks man! Really helpful.
Glad I could help!
If purchasing plants(all plants not just chiles) from any hardware store and most nurseries, immediately give them a dose of soluble high phosphate fertilizer. One of the tricks used by commercial producers to prevent stretching during periods of cloudy weather is to make them deficient in P after achieving the desired initial growth. Which makes a plant that looks compact and healthy but if not corrected it will have slow growth.
I bought a cheap greenhouse and it’s fantastic for hardening off. Protects them from strong winds and something about that plastic tames the sun so it doesn’t hurt them. After a week in the greenhouse they’re ready to go in the ground.
I've been using a lot of these tricks and they do work! I was able to grow pepper seedling for grocery store bell pepper seeds!
I over wintered the best of my pepper plants in fall of last year. They're coming out of dormancy now and sprouting all over the stems like a bush. I'm pretty excited to have such a huge big start this year with peppers
Good timing , we are planting our pepper seeds today down stairs.
Your good advice will be helpful.
Perfect! Hope you have good results this year.
I’m in central SC and have only been gardening for about 5 years. I’ve found the best pest control for peppers in my area is Neem oil once a week for as long as the pests are relevant. Thanks for the tips!
Neem oil is very bad for honey bees
@@bloodbought1776 which is why you don’t spray the flowers! 😉
So glad I stumbled across y'all's channel. We have been gardening for a few years now and have always had mixed results when it came to our pepper plants. We look forward to learning more.
I wait until after my last frost date to start the seeds indoors. Once they sprout, it's warm enough outside for them, so I put them in a sunny spot outside.
Once they've grown their true leaves and begin to branch out, I plant them in the ground. Since I put the seedlings outside on day one, they don't require any hardening off.
Good idea that fan. I bought two, that was time growing in the soil. After the surface got dry plants grew great ! But when it got dry the small small dirt started to fly on the air and i was inside eyes red, full of that tiny tiny dirt.
Lesson learned.
Now all my plants are grown in the water.
Haha, many of the things you mentioned here are things that I had to learn on my own through trial and error and got lucky that I experimented with some of these techniques and found they worked, and some other things you mentioned are things that I in fact learned from other experienced pepper Growers on TH-cam.
One thing that I found out this year that I had never heard anybody mention before that goes along with using a fan in my grow box, is that I found that my plants seem to breathe much better when I not only have a small fan blowing down from an angle from overhead, but I have another small fan that I integrated on the opposite side of my grow box down low at container level allowing the air to also exit the grow box so there is circulation fresh air that is going through the top middle and bottoms of the plants because before I did this, my plants were beginning to lose a lot of foliage, and I honestly did not actually know why but my suspicion was that the old air and carbon dioxide was not getting circulated out towards the bottoms of the plants which is where I began to lose a lot of leaves, so I thought maybe the leaf drop it was from them suffocating in their own waste, but as soon as I put that extra fan at the opposite side at the bottom, Leaf Dropage immediately slow down to a halt, and it has not been a problem since.
Thanks for sharing that, great advice for anyone growing in an enclosed space like a grow tent!
Hi, thanks for sharing this info.
How long do you keep the fan on in your grow bawx per day? I have a 3 rack grow tent, do i need one fan for each of the racks, or maybe just one fan at the bottom pulling air in and one at the top pushing air out?
I think I see some Bootstrap farmer trays in the background. I like the look of their stuff but I can't decide what specifically to get. It would be awesome if you guys could come up with a few lists of products to make "kits" for various scenarios or use cases like "seed starter starter kit" and "I live in a shoebox" or even "go big or go home".
Even something as simple as showing us your favorite products of theirs would be cool.
OMG I should really wait to finish the video before commenting.
🤣 they are great, and good idea on sharing what we use..we're thinking of something similar for the future.
Don't put your FOOD in plastic - get cow Pots ... or use cardboard or come with something to grow up seedlings until they go outside
@@TwistedRootsVanVelzerPress Don’t be silly. Those are reusable containers, and they are not leaking. Harmful chemicals into your “food,” nor are they putting chemicals and poisons into your plants in any appreciable quantity.
I was told this a long time ago with potted peppers. That you should not prune it until the roots start to become root bound, this will start to cause the branches to turn inward toward the trunk as they grow. Cut those branches off and this will allow the lower growth to start growing. I am not sure if it is beneficial or not, but I have seen the behaviour of the branches growing inward in potted pepper plants.
Hi I started growing peppers this year, I'm in the UK and my seedlings are struggling, they have only 1set of leaves so far and been up for over a month I don't have access to the lighting or heat mats, I do bottom water and throw unwanted water.
Big fan of Bootstrap farmer as well. Have been using their products for 3 years now. They are durable and don't break like the other brands.
Here's my mistake for '22/'23: Since I start my peppers and tomatoes in mid October, I decided to experiment with cutting back this year. I planted everything three to a pot, and pruned back at the FIRST set of true leaves. The idea was that I had plenty of time for them to recuperate if I cut too soon. My big mistake was doing this to every plant and not leaving at least a third as control subjects. What I learned is that the Big Berthas loved it and bushed out like I wanted. Well they all did, but the BB also grew vigorously. The Cubanelles are half and half; some taller, some not really. The Chocolate Beauties I learned, do not like to be pruned AT ALL!!! Even the one I wintered over, is not really growing back with much vigor.
Bottom line is: Experiment with only a certain percentage, in the event something goes horribly wrong. They are all fruiting immensely; I've been pinching the pearls off for the past two months, but the Chocolates are going to be very dwarf in size now. I will not prune those again. Now, once everything goes in the ground this weekend, they may take off. They may be confined in the pots, and I have not fertilized them at all since I planted them into my pure compost.
I’ve got 70 peppers going, most are about a inch tall with a couple at 2”, hope I can get my peppers to do well this year
thanks to remember us what to take care.
btw, Khang Starr has a nice video on how to separate seedlings usinng whater to prevent roots on being damaged..
Once in the ground, use Masterblend 4-18-38, Calcium Nitrate, Epson Salt and Sea-90 minerals. I did last year and was AMAZED! Massive quantities and quality was A-1.
I was actually planning on buying seed starters today, but the nursery was closed when I got there. Glad I ended up seeing this video first, great tips, and hopefully great stuff from the bootstrap farmer. I’m going to try out their grow bags, and seed starters
Great to see you pop into my feed again! Still waiting for the sunshine in the UK, though day time temperatures are moving up now at last. Had my mixed batch of seedlings outside during daylight hours since Thursday and only one from about 30 looked a bit poorly. It bounced back OK under the lamp. Still too cold to leave out overnight, but it's not going to be before long now. Mustn't forget to bring them in, that'd be a disaster with 70kph winds predicted for tonight. All the best everyone 💪
I recommend doing some of your plants pruned and some not pruned to see if there is a difference in yield or growth, when I started to prune my pepper plants they did much better
Scott Head’s pepper pruning guide on TH-cam is great
Kindly make a video about lumens for every stages of pepper plant.
fan.. I have to get a fan in there.
Here's what I've done so far.
I germinate in 50mm peat pellets. As soon as they sprout, I peal those pellets and put them right in 32 ounce yogurt cups for the duration until they go outside.
I have them first, inside an east facing window (southern windows are all shaded) and under lights.. just recently went to 16 hours since the ones I have, the longest timer setting is 12 hours and that's where I was with them.
The only pruning I've ever done is if a branch gets damaged.
I'm going in grow bags this year.. our hard-pack is just too dense to get plants going in the ground.
Between that and the rhizome grass here.. I'm better off in containers.
This may sound silly, but keep a trap/sentinel plant if you've had pest issues.
I find aphids will preferentially attack borage over just about anything else, so I can keep an eye on it for infestations then subject it to constant leaf handling and neem oil spraying instead of roughing up the plants I care about. Especially seedlings.
Still have to mind the others of course, but it's nice to have something that can take a beating.
I keep on asking people about my garage, it is still cold in there, maybe below 50 degrees, sometimes. Everyone says to take the pepper seedlings off the heating mat. But like said it is cold. All my seedlings are up, but I think they slow down growing because of it so cold
I do mob seeding.
30 seeds in one small pot and then I split out all the germination into separate pots...
Thanks Pepper Geek, trying my neon green thumb at guajillo pepper plants and your tips and caution's to be aware of are a nice help.
They should enjoy the company of my pineapple plants...
thank you for supporting a usa company
Yours are beautiful.
Q .How much time during the day do you recommend using a fan for pepper seedlings.
Q. What distance from the seedling are yours.
Planted ours on heat mats under grow full spectrum on Feb 26th, 2nd leaves are starting.
Bottom watering w. very weal rain water compost tea.
Thank you for your guidance. You are much appreciated.
Wonderful video and thank you so much! I needed this info as I am growing peppers from seed for the first time. New sub here.
About lights: I used cheap 10W LED lights the last two months for my seedlings and it helped to get about 30 healthy small plants. As the sun comes out more often meanwhile I relocated all pots to my windowsill. The smaller plants I put back to the LED lights in the evening. Now I am wondering: what is generally better, diffuse daylight or low power LEDs?
Good question
I’ve never had seedlings in the window and just used 100w leds and dimmed them according to the plants needs.
Late replying here but I hope my experience in the rainy, cloudy, chilly northwest of England can help. We rarely see the sun on a regular basis, except for an unreliable few weeks in midsummer, maybe. I, too, only have a low wattage grow light and windowsills.
What I do is have my pepper seedlings on a southfacing windowsill with the growlight on them _at the same time_ . So they are (currently) getting about 8 hours daylight - sometimes 'bright' daylight, more often 'dull' daylight - _supplemented with_ the LED growlight at the same time, plus another 6 - 8 hours of 'just' the growlight. Free light is valuable, make the most of it!
This scheme - diffuse daylight together with a low-powered growlight - has worked for me for several years.
What's the best temperature for pepper seedlings? Once they germinate and get going can they handle cooler temperatures than what they needed to germinate? Thanks!
The generally accepted temperature range for starting pepper seedlings is upper 70’s to 90°F. My seeds were at about 77° on my heating mats and most germinated within a week; even the Carolina Reapers were sprouting by about day 8. .
After the plants start growing their first real leaves, within about a week or 10 days, they no longer need to be as warm and should do fine if taken off the heat mats and put into temperatures in the 60s.
@@WisGuy4 thank you! I started mine in my utility room where it’s about 85 degrees. I quickly run out of room when I need to pot them up though. I don’t think my greenhouse is quite warm enough yet so I may need to find a spot in the house first.
I understood that the fan just needed a couple hours .
My seedlings get worm casting
I am not going buy $300 lights, but the LED garage/shop is going to work good enough.
I have beverage containers with 6 inches and good growing room.
Great advice, Geeks
I have BT against fungus knats
Thanks
Thanks for sharing, yup shop lights are a good budget option for seedling growth 👍🏻
@@PepperGeek but only if the shop lights are a) LED, not fluorescent; and b) the right color spectrum output of 5,000-6,500 kelvins. I’ve had excellent success using LED shoplights for the past three years.
i just throw a bunch of seeds on a 5 gal pot put it out on the sun, and water em, the weak die the strong thrive. i love Aji peppers they're sooo good.
I use seedstarter soil and water with 1tbsp coconut water : 1L water as my early general fertilizer. Coconut water is gentle on baby plants
Thanks for this. I have started to sow my chilli and peppers this year. They are still so tiny. I hope that will be ok.
I tried to subscribe , but , TH-cam says I have too many subscriptions !!!! Keep making gardening videos and I'll keep watching !!!! Thank you very much !!!!
Too many subscriptions?!?! No such thing!!
I put the seedlings which are an inch or so outside in the shade.
The leaf curl tip is helpful, I think my led light is too close. I using 100w full spectrum, what do you think the height should be in a grow enclosure with reflective walls?
I live in North central NC with very high humidity year round. What can I do to protect my plants and how soon should I start my seeds? This is the first time I’m starting my own from seeds. Also spring here is very rainy for about two weeks and then we have the heat starting in the 80’s and rises fast. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yes. All these things apply to cannais. Cannabis and peppers grow similar and require similar feeding, watering, and soil.
I had about 8 pepper plants that grew like a cucumber plant and were 8 feet long. What would cause this. Your help is always appreciated, thank for all the good info.
That great advice holds true for pretty much all indoor seed starting!
Thanks :)
Thanks Geek couple you guys are crazy pepper lovers like me. Got my crop going in the house transition to greenhouse tomorrow.
I'm running in to the root bind problem now. Normally I can pot up and move them out to my little poly tunnel by now. This unseasonably cold spring has put things behind schedule.
I also no longer prune my peppers, I too found no benefit in doing so, I will remove various leaves, etc, that look diseased but otherwise leave them alone. May 10 is our official last frost day, year before we had frost May 9, I just about lost my plants (they never did grow correct after that, stunted and just not healthy looking). can't start seedlings till April and I'm chomping at the bit to get going.
Same! We always get tempted to start early when we start seeing everyone else's plants from down South!
What lights do you use for the indoor seedlings?
We have several, but any of the Viparspectra 100-150W lights are good. We have the p1500 and the newer XS1500 Pro models and both are great. Heres some info on the latest one: peppergeek.com/viparspectra-xs1500-pro-led-review
@@PepperGeek Thanks for the reply. I think my light is too bright for seedlings. Is the ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro LED Grow Light good for seedlings?
Zone 7a, planted first round of peppers 40 days ago. Will need to move them outside in a week or so.
Going to be up under ag-fleece and some plastic sheeting.
I have way too many plants lol
Quick question, I just watched another video by a pretty popular youtuber, in which he said he always plants peppers in 2's in each cell, and grows them up as a pair once in the soil. Apparently they will lean on each other for support, and grow better with a bigger root ball shared by both plants. I see you prune to one plant, as I always have; wondering if you have any input on this?
4th year successfully growing Goria and Paprika peppers and yet I always watch your videos, just to be sure... ;)
Rather than yoinking the seedling out as shown, clipping close to the base is more safe. If the roots are entwined, pulling could hurt the other seedling.
I'm overwintering two pepper plants from last year, but one of the plants is splitting? Like the stem is opening up a bit on different places. Do you know what I can do?
Do you have any suggestions for holding peppers indoors a bit longer than expected? I've had unusually cool weather for the last month, and I've got peppers that I'm setting outside when the temps are up into the 60s. But there's still plenty of 50 degree days ahead (for the high - lows down to the 40s), so I don't want to put them outside for good yet. They're starting to outgrow their 3" pots, and I don't have room indoors for enough larger containers.
You'll have to up pot so they don't get root bound
I think you could do 55f. Some even say 50f. This is nighttime temps right? If you have 2 or 3 of one plant, you should experiment. One at each temp: 50, 55, 60 and see how they compare. You don't know until you try.
I found that just taking my plants outside for the hour or more that the temperatures are okay can help pre-harden them a little as well as making up for having to keep them indoors longer than planned. It's a PITA hauling everyone out and in every day, but when I was finally able to plant them out they were ready to go and took off well.
@@carlclark3167 are you taking about hardening then to sunlight and daytime temps? Or did you mean harden them to the cold temps?
This is the first year I've tried growing from seed. I used a starter kit with a dome and after a week the peppers were long and gangly leaning toward the window. I removed the dome and one of the pods looks like it's completely shriveled up. Can these be saved or should I start over.
You should remove the humidity dome asap after they sprout! They may recover, it’s hard to say
wonderful tips for us "budding" gardeners ... thanks
hey there, great videos thank you! I am in zone 3 and I want to start growing Jalapenos from seed is mid April too late? I do not have an indoor set up so south facing windows and outside is all I have. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers
It may be on the late side for you but worth a shot. If you plant in containers, you can bring them indoors in the fall if there is an early frost. Jalapeños are fairly quick to be ready to harvest too so go for it!
Thanks for this video.. Very helpfull..
If you dont mind me asking.. what is kind of pepper the purple pepperplant ?
It’s my first year starting in a tent. Everything looks amazing. My question is when should I discontinue pinching off early flowers to inhibit growth. We’re about 2 weeks from frost free here and my plants are roughly 8-9 inches tall and full of leaves and I even topped the plant to grow branches. But they are budding flowers like crazy. Are they tall and grown enough?
Suggestions for PPFD on full spectrum LEDs during different stages of growth?
Pepper geek use to be pro active in answering questions but of late they don't care to interact with their viewers/subscribers unfortunately.
Do you recommend cold stratification for pepper seeds?
What about slow sprouting I can see some green at soil level but they just seem to sit there...does this ever turn out ok?
Did they sprout?
@@antMBTC depends on definition I can see green but nothing that is standing up straight
@@brianramsey3824 like green algae
It's the last point he addresses in the video.
@@antMBTC no like maybe a bent over stem it's like its sitting at the surface but they arent pushing through
This was really helpful, thank you! I appreciate the reminder to harden off. Congratulations on getting a sponsor and good luck with this year's peppers!
Glad it was helpful and thank you ☺️
How many hours should the seedlings be exposed to the fan? Also, can I put the fan on seedlings that has not yet grown their 1st true set of leaves?
Are you running the fan 24/7?
I’ve been only doing it for a couple hours a day because I’m worried about it drying out the soil really bad and also making the seedling too cold.
Yes, I run my fan off a different extension cord than the one with the timer and lights so it goes 24/7. I’d rather have to water once or twice more per week than deal with mold.
I have found that pruning generally delays fruiting by a few weeks, but the total production seems similar.
@pepper Greek do you have any videos on cross breeding chillies?
I was looking at your video and you talked about a small fan , how long do you keep your fan running . Need to know if as long as the light are on or a few hours each day
I keep the fan on 24/7. Why turn it off?
@@WisGuy4 thanks
love the kratky bottle experiment!!! mabey show more on that if you have time 🤪
Where do y’all get your seeds from? I get you probably harvest a majority from the peppers you grow now but if you start a new breed is there a specific company you get your seeds from?
Hay man 👋🏽! I’m Tom. Quick question hoping you had some insight. Should I plant a bean or two in my pepper plant 🤔 that’ll add nitrogen and also probably help keep the soil more dry down there. Anyway please lmk what you think. I’ve already done it btw. Let me know if you would like an update.
Beans add nitrogen up to a point - I believe they become net-negative on the nitrogen once they begin flowering/producing their pods. Either way, sounds like a good experiment, let me know how it turns out!
Luckily I only made 1 of these mistakes this year - will correct ASAP
What are your thoughts on Biquinho peppers?
They're great! Kind of like a mini habanero, which can be good for metering out the spice in dishes. They tend to produce _a ton_ of pods on each plant, which is great, but harvesting can be a bit of a chore.
That's very interesting about not pruning. I have pruned in the past, but like you, I didn't really notice an increase in yield when I did.
curious what kind of pepper is in the glass bottle in your vid. thanks for the good pepper advice!
Thanks
My peppers occasionally put out a blossom very early. I've been told that a sign of distress. Is it? And should I pluck the buds?
I started several pepper seedlings indoors. Something is eating the tops off the seedlings? Other seedlings and vegetables have not been effected. This seems to be happening at night. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Fans also help to interrupt fungus gnat breeding cycle.
Yes - can't underestimate the harm they can cause too, killed off 2-3 of our plants last spring!
If a full spectrum light is too close/too intense would that make the leaves go very dark green/purple tints?
Depends on the variety, but yes, that is probably the case. The light isn't too intense, but probably will be if they grow any closer!
The dark green tells me they are happy! Think of the red as a natural sunscreen. 👍🙂
I have a tomato growing now which has a white, mottled camouflage-look through the leaves. Looks really neat!
Edit: autocorrect loves to switch 'of','if', and 'on'. I wish it would mind its(not 'it's', 😂 ) own business.
@@RealBradMiller You are not wrong to THINK the darker the green the better. But that's the plants STRESSING for sunlight. They are being more productive than they should, just like how someone might be pulling 80 hours a week. You can't assume that 80 hours person is "automatically" twice as financially free as a 40 hours a week is.
@@rickytorres9089 if the plants were getting leggy, and Darren had included that, I may agree, but I have experienced exactly what Darren is describing on some of my peppers in the past, and they were flowering and fruiting indoors wonderfully. 🤷 Perhaps I'd have a different opinion of I could actually view the plants.
Could be variety but unnaturally dark indicates too much Nitrogen.
@@CL-ty6wp Will keep this in mind, I got a fertility meter combo from Burpee's so I can always mud up some of the vermicompostings and see what's going on if I notices it again somewhere.
I noticed when you were showing the footage regarding the grow lights you had a plant with its root in water (I assume this is a pepper plant). I did not think peppers like wet roots?
Hydroponics with peppers is possible. I don't know much about it, though.
What variety is the pepper with the purple flowers
I grow chillies in pots and have a 1cm thick seramis layer above the soil so that the fungus gnats cannot lay eggs. this also works with sand. the main thing is that it is non-organic and moist
I will seriously consider going to your sponsors website and purchasing their products.. bootstrap farmer 👍
Hi! new subscriber here and a very specific question. We leave for vacation in early August and return the end of September. I can't leave my peppers to fruit unattended while we are gone so I prune them way back with hopes they will resprout and produce in the fall. I've had spotty success with this. Any tips on how hard I should prune them back?
I noticed towards the end of your video, one of the plant has purple-ish cotyledons. Majority of mine are like that. Could it be from lack of nutrients from the seed starting mix? Would fertilizing fix it?
Have a question for you, can't find any answer online.
I'm growing cayenne peppers hydroponic with air stone, ppm is right and ph is right, however, the plant keeps dropping the peppers early before ripened. Plant is producing very well but I'm lost on why it's not letting them get ripe. Have other peppers that I'm growing and not having this problem. Please help if you can, or if anyone has any kind of answer would be very much appreciated. 😊
Very good tips 👊🏻💥👊🏻
When are they ready for there second transplant?