Welcome to the family! You now will be able to focus more on enjoying your X-Maxx and less down time messing with re-installing a failed servo! - Setting your end points and SUBTRIM are critical to a successful install. I recommend setting this before connecting the front bulkhead back to the chassis. Simply power on the radio (- use a small 2S lipo), plug the PWM connector to the servo (CH1) slot on the RX, then power the servo using a 4S LiIon propulsion pack (offered at Promodeler.com as well). Set the sub-trim center point as close as you can, then adjust the end-points for left/right throw: start at 80% throw on each side, then increase end-points until there’s physical/mechanical resistance - this is how people “break” their new servo by over shooting the throw… a lot like forcing the servo to push apart two 10-TON rocks… doesn’t end well for the servo. Next, use the TRIM (not the sub-trim) to fine tune the center point off the steering when at neutral “0” position. Now, reassemble the X-Maxx/XRT and do not forget to secure the servo horn to the servo output gear using the included M3 screw and bite-washer with a dab of BLUE loctite (NEVER RED). Use the outer “eyelet” on the servo horn to attach your steering link as that will give you smoother range of steering throw… the shorter eyelet will give a much quicker steering response, but can make it more difficult to control the x-maxx when steering needs to be less “jittery”. Bash on everyone! -Charles Moradi
Beware promodeler company. John is super cold to his customers I emailed him to thank him for his stuff and he chewed me out talking crap about the indestructible bodies. All I could say was thanks John and told him I’ll never buy from him again ever And I won’t promote him either
Awesome! Thanks man, I hope to have more time soon to start uploading more content. I have a few more ProModeler Servos I need to get installed and just trying to find some people here in Austin, TX that will lend me their 1/5 Scale for a day to get pics showing an installation of the new DS1735BLDP and DS2180BLDP servos that are 2S Direct Powered & Drop-In Fit servos for any 1/5 Scale Gasser or electric RC.
great help installing mine, works great. I broke the smaller promodeler servos for the xmaxx. My fault im abusive and have huge heavy tires along with massive kevin talbot style air)
That’s great to hear! The DS1885BLWR was made exclusively for the X-maxx/ [XRT compatible]. In fact, after lot’s of field testing the DS1155BLHV with big-air and second story over-pass launches, we discovered that the DS1155BLHV holds up to a point. So we went to the other end of the available motors and kept coming back to the DS2685BLHV Mega brushless servo motor. It’s the only 4S brushless motor and meant for 1/4 scale applications (but can be retro-fit into the 1/5 Arma chassis) and decided to design a casing that would allow the DS2685BLHV Mega motor in a small form-factor. Viola! DS1885BLWR was born! The difference in torque is due to the reduction gearing. We wanted a little more speed/reaction-time but enough stall torque to hold up under a 10X impact load! I’ve been able to launch my x-maxx repeatedly from a second-story highway overpass and nail those hard landings without any damage to the servo. It’s truly impossible to ever say something is “unbreakable” but in the world of servos, this is about as close as one can get to that label. The single biggest factor when considering the DS1885BLWR is being okay with the fact that a dedicated LiIon (preferred over Lipo because they have a much more stable shelf life) is needed to ensure 100% consistent performance each and every time. Charge usually lasts at least 2-3 runs between needing a charge from a 850mAh 4S LiIon.
Not at all, in fact, this truck has been my most reliable build to date. I have like two front bulkheads that I’ve had on hand for over two years now that I just haven’t ever needed to use.
Getting ready to buy one of these servos. Buy once cry once. Also subscribed because between the video and your replies to comments, you’ve answered every question I’ve had about them. I can tell you got a wealth of RC knowledge. I do however have a more general question for servos. What is the difference between a seperate lipo and a BEC? How does a BEC work? And which setup is more better/reliable/beneficial? Thanks man. Appreciate it
So very glad to be able to help and thanks for subscribing! I hope to put out another install video for the DS2180BLDP soon (for the 1/5 Armas and Losi RCs). Email me at h3llfir3rc@gmail.com for in depth explanation (using diagrams) but to answer your question: It’s best to think of electric power as Analog Audio vs Digital Audio. With Digital, the sound wave will show missing “bits” of audio in evenly spread out chunks… to the listener, the sound gaps are often indiscernible at 192bit/s… as the audio file quality decreases, the gaps become a little more obvious. Back to RC Servo power comparing dedicated battery vs BEC: BEC power is considered “dirty” and a lot like digital audio, in that the BEC power is siphoned off the main power supply to the ESC, then recycled into small accumulated voltage and current leakage. The problem here is that there are a lot of continuous “gaps” in power and the ESC will always divert power to the motor as the priority, especially when throttle is applied under motor load. This results in occasional interrupted voltage and current to the Servo. Contrast that to a dedicated LiPo or LiIon battery supply, which is more like “analog audio”. The power is always at 100% and never has power interruption to the servo. In addition, depending on how your receiver is powered, a dedicated battery will allow you to maintain steering even if the ESC stops working (as long as you have a separate power supply to the receiver). Overall, I recommend using a dedicated LiIon battery. LiIon batteries are more “forgiving” and can be left alone for longer periods of time without the battery going stale (cells begin to increase IR and discharge quickly). They can also be discharged more than usual without harming the battery, versus a traditional LiPo which needs to be monitored better to maintain voltage between 3.8V and 4.2V. Think of it this way: You already bought the best motor and ESC for your set up, then the best big lipo basher batteries… and made a ton of upgrades, and now you just bought the “Ferrari” of servos, good decision! So, why would anyone power a Ferrari with regular unleaded gasoline? They don’t!!! So giving your servo the best power source makes sense to get the best performance, after all, that’s what you paid for😊 - PERFORMANCE (plus durability and reliability)!!! Using a BEC is a second option and nothing wrong with it as some people don’t have room to fit another battery, or don’t want to create extra clutter… and this is perfectly okay, it will still allow the servo to perform, just not the way it does when using a dedicated battery pack. IF you decide to use a BEC, then I can only recommend the Castle BEC lines of BEC. Three in particular: 1. Castle Creations BEC 2.0 - I like this one because the wires and connectors can be easily changed, but it is not water proof and is not fully cased. 2. Castle Creations BEC 2.0 WP - This is a WaterProof (fully cased) version of the one above and the connectors can still be changed but the case is not easily opened to add a completely different pigtail with a different connector, so you will need to splice and solder the different connector. Again, not a big deal, but cumbersome for some people that are not proficient at soldering. 3. Castle Creation BEC PRO - the most durable and robust BEC but mostly reserved for those very Large Scale trucks, planes and boats to power several large scale servos… this is often times too large of a unit to mount anywhere inconspicuous. There are other BECs that are also good, but the three above are the only ones I have tested and proven to be a reliable BEC. When using a BEC to power your servo, you will need to know how to wire everything up. Email me and I can help walk you through that process.
@@h3llfir3rc awesome. I was under the assumption, that the BEC was the better option. I guess only because it was another part to add. Good to know the additional batttery is the better option, as that would be my preference anyways. And the explanation makes perfect sense. Thanks man! Much appreciated
@@adammidcal2425 Anytime! and yes, the dedicated pack is definitiely the way to go, but even I have had to use a BEC to power a servo, especially on certain space limited RC Builds. Not IDEAL, but an "okay" route, as long as I am using a high quality BEC. Last thing: Stay away from buck converter modules... these are not really the same and not engineered to handle the big surges in power from the mains. What ends up happening is that a surge from the mains (main batteries) overloads the buck converter (aka - step down) then sends a buck shot of surge to the servo and damages it bad if not, it kills it. The BECs I recommended have been Tested using 6S, 8S and 12S RC builds. There is one BEC that can be used for 16S but I have not personally tested it yet... but I plan to and that is the Hobbywing BEC. It's a BIG one though and costs around $80. It has some additional Failsafe connectors and very overkill, even for me, a guy that lives on overkill parts! Please share what you end up doing when you get your DS1885BLDP servo! I'd love to see how you set it up!
It comes with the Servo and you will need to choose the add on option for X-Maxx, which will include the 15T Horn needed). The Servo comes with a separate XT30 connector wire so a Y-Harness is not necessary with this model. You will however, need a LiIon (or Lipo) to power this servo. I use the Flat 4S 850mAh 15C packs from Promodeler and sometimes use the Flat 4S 2000mAh 10C pack if I know I will be running the truck all day long. The difference in pack capacity: the 850mAh pack will get me through a couple packs of Main Lipo packs easy, while the 2000mAh LiIon pack will last through 4-5 Main Lipo packs. Both flat packs fit the width of the center chassis, where the ESC and motor are, so I use a simple accessory plate and mount it over the motor. I could just as easily use a Square style pack and mount it towards the front of the truck, again, using an accessory tray. Again, to sumarize, when you order the Midi "Porker", you will be prompted to choose if it is for X-MAxx, and when you do that, it will come with the 15T Horn. and you do NOT need a Y-HArness, but you will need a dedicated "propulsion" pack and can use either LiIon or Lipo, although I recommend LiIon because the packs are much more stable and can be run down a little further than Lipo without damaging the battery and can hold charge much longer than a LiPo without damaging the cells over time.
Hi, I would like to take also this big Servo, but I wonder why there are so less YT , is there a point why this servo is so less bought? Also whithout of the price. Are you still happy with the Servo? Today the are some more strong Servos, Savöx 2290 like mine, or Futaba 700, or OMG or Holms. Would you prefer also today the Promodeler 1888 ? Thank you and much greatings from Germany 🙂
Yes, I completely understand your question. I have probably failed at providing action video showing my servo working beautifully and as well as it did on the very first day. I have had this Servo for a long time now and steering is not something I ever need to worry about anymore. This servo is like the Ferrari of servos. It has reinforced hard points, bronze bushing inserts, and has been made to withstand extreme vibration distress, and impact tests that exceed military spec. This servo also uses a very large 15 tooth spline on its output gear. And the torque is truly amazing. I have been able to jump my truck off of a second story overpass using a ramp. That is probably around 55 feet of vertical drop and the servo works flawlessly after every landing. And the reason you see other people using different servos, is because they are often cheaper in price. But after I tried buying several different cheaper servos, I realized that I was just creating more frustration for myself. I finally replaced about nine servos, that could not hold up to my extreme abuse. That is, until I found a ProModeler. Promodeler Servo‘s are built with extreme bashers in mind. Should you ever manage to break this servo, Promodeler will gladly repair it for you. They offer a very fair limited warranty on manufacturing defects. They will not warranty for user error (like using inappropriate voltage or intentionally submerging the servo to play “submarine warfare”.) but they will still offer to repair it for a nominal charge. You can email me at H3ŁŁFįR3RC@gmail.com for more details if you’d like.
@@h3llfir3rc Hi, finale I have also a 1885 😊. The Servo has a servocable with 3 Wires and a doublecable with 2 wires with a xt30 conector for the extra akku. Can I plug in the servocable in the Receicer or have to delete the middle cable , the Plus, when I use the separate accu without using the bec. Maybe the servo has a switch to use BEC and when plugin the separate accu the switch take the power from the accu and can ignore the plus from the receiver? Best regards Andreas
@@slomofan2070 I emailed you back about 30min ago. No need to disconnect middle servo cable wire from the servo with the DS1885BLDP. The middle servo cable wire is necessary for nominal signal voltage from servo to the receiver since there is a unidirectional diode that prevents the servo from receiving any power from the receiver. The servo is 100% powered via the xt30 connector lead. So do not remove the servo connector’s power wire as it is configured differently than a traditional servo (traditional servos only have ONE wire and receive power from the receiver, so with a traditional servo, if you want to power it externally, then yes, you would need to use a rX bypass adapter or pull the servos middle power wire. NOT the case with the DS1885BLDP).
I use a normal lipo charger. The main power lead has an XT30 connector, so I bought an Male XT30 to Female XT60 adapter (you can also make them yourself). Since that is what one of my chargers uses for the connection plug. I have an iCharger 406Duo and a Hobbymate D6 DuoPro as well. No need to use any special setting, it can be charged using the normal lipo parameters at max 2C charge rate. So, if it is a 2,000mAh pack, then I can charge at 4A.
Yes, on the front bulkhead, the leading base plate will need to be removed. Easy process and I have several pictures to illustrate this if you’d like to email me at h3llfir3rc@gmail.com. I’d be happy to provide more details on behalf of Promodeler.
Yeah, I blame castle for their 300mm long wire leads - LOL! I've since pulled the XLX2 and installed a 400A Flier ESC... little more manageable now... and surpisingly turns the Hobbystar 56112 into a complete uncaged animal. But you are right, I need better wire management before next video upload:)
To answer the question, yes, it will work, but not well: I don’t recommend using a balance lead on one of the 4S packs because of the current surge that occurs when the servo is under load. It can fry the wires on the balance wires and the connector pins. I say this from personal experience of this happening. This is why a dedicated LiIon or Lipo would be best. Plus, should there ever be a problem with the Lipos, or the ESC in the future, the servo will not be subject to any of those damaging effects. Hope this helps….
@@guillaumedubois8896 I definitely would not do that since it will be giving the servo 33.6V, which is 2x of what it is rated for. When two batteries are connected in series, you will get the sum of the batteries voltage, regardless of which connector you try to tap. The only way to get only 14.8V from an individual lipo is from the balance leads, but again, I would not recommend doing that. To verify what I am saying, Tap the wires with a voltage meter, once it’s fully-connected and you will see what I mean.
@@h3llfir3rc i know that but my plan is to tap on the first battery conector before the second battery double the voltage since they are plug in series...
@@guillaumedubois8896 - Ah! I see what you mean now. This will work as long as you are not tapping any of the series wires. Keep in mind that even though this will technically work, the servo performance will be subject to voltage drop by the Lipo itself if you are hard on the throttle. If you insist on not using a dedicated LiIon pack to power this servo (you rate not alone in this as there are quite a few people that do not like using a dedicated pack to power the servo), I would at the very least recommend you do NOT tap the main lipo pack directly, rather, tap the series wires at the base of the ESC main +/- wires and attached a capable BEC, like the Castle BEC Pro or BEC 2.0. This will at least regulate the voltage output to the servo and help prevent any big surges/drops in voltage/current to the servo. This servo really is the very best there is for X-Maxx, and I am only offering some helpful tips for you to get the absolute best performance 100% of the time:) Happy Bashing!
I burnt through three 2085X, two 2290Savöx, reefs555, and a couple of knock off servos. Haven’t had a single issue with the DS1885BLDP since I installed it. My only regret was not doing it sooner. So, I’m response to your question, I’d say it’s 10x better than the 2085X. Even MORE importantly, steering is now the last thing I concern myself with. The servo will hold a turn at 55mph with badlands MX43 which weigh 2.25lbs each wheel. 1885oz-in is over 135kg-cm torque.
@@h3llfir3rc fair enough. I just destroyed my first stock servo running the same mx43 badlands. I still sent it out for warranty ($40 replacement) but I can see this servo being a problem….thing is a mf’r to access too. I figure the less times I have to work on that servo the better. I just wish this promodeler was a little cheaper, I’d be all over it for 200
@@4200Shields I hear ya! After a while, it wasn’t even about the money. More about the down time. I don’t have lots of time as it is to actually run my RCs so when I finally get an afternoon to do it, charge 4-5 pairs of LiPos, drive out somewhere, find a spot and then break the servo 5min into the day, it is defeating. The cost is steep, but it’s been the sole reason I’ve been able to get through a full afternoon of running truck instead of wrenching it.
Last thing: the price will never be less than it is now. We both know that everything has gone up in price including castle XLX2 ESC recently. Along with their motor costs. Same ESC, same motors, higher price. If you have done any serious upgrades, then you know a castle XLX2 will cost $295 at the register. A castle 2028 series motor can cost $320 (1700kv) at the register. And don’t get me started on Hobbywing Max4 ESC ($449) or the HW70125 ($349) and then the superstar ESC from MGM (x3 40035) that costs $750!! So, maybe not you (yet), but the guys running those powerful power plants need to include the servo as part of the whole system. Power is cool but can be a liability if the steering is junk. Makes sense right? You spent $200 on MX43 badlands because the truck handled like junk on stock tires. Traxxas did an amazing job at pushing the absolute limit with X-Maxx and XRT. THE MOMENT anything is changed, there is a cause & effect situation. It’s wild to consider that they really made that truck so well balanced as long as NOTHING is changed. That’s the reason it’s not a true 1/5 scale truck. And why the servo is not a 1/6 or a 1/5 servo. The design engineer was able to scale everything to run just right at that scaled size and weight ratio. Otherwise, they would have made it a 1/5 scale truck. I’m sure it would have been a dog speed-wise though.
@@h3llfir3rc you called it. While I’m waiting for my xmaxx servo to get warrantied, I’ve been bashing my maxx 4s. Drive 30mins to the spot (a nice little bmx track) only to have ANOTHER servo failure after 10mins of driving. This time on the maxx. Now, of all of a sudden, paying 300 for a servo doesn’t sound so bad if it means I’ll never have to worry about it again. I’m leaning towards a savox servo. They stock them at my local hobby shop and the prices are decent ~$150. That all said, I got a solid 4 months of HEAVY bashing out my xmaxx with relatively few problems. Thing is a beast, same with the maxx. But this servo is garbage. I REALLY don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of buying new motor & esc just to run these tires.
I ordered mine today. Thank you for a great tutorial
Fantastic! You will be amazed at the difference in power and control at high speeds off-road or on-road!
@@h3llfir3rc John Beech is a great guy. Excellent communications!
Welcome to the family! You now will be able to focus more on enjoying your X-Maxx and less down time messing with re-installing a failed servo! - Setting your end points and SUBTRIM are critical to a successful install. I recommend setting this before connecting the front bulkhead back to the chassis. Simply power on the radio (- use a small 2S lipo), plug the PWM connector to the servo (CH1) slot on the RX, then power the servo using a 4S LiIon propulsion pack (offered at Promodeler.com as well). Set the sub-trim center point as close as you can, then adjust the end-points for left/right throw: start at 80% throw on each side, then increase end-points until there’s physical/mechanical resistance - this is how people “break” their new servo by over shooting the throw… a lot like forcing the servo to push apart two 10-TON rocks… doesn’t end well for the servo. Next, use the TRIM (not the sub-trim) to fine tune the center point off the steering when at neutral “0” position. Now, reassemble the X-Maxx/XRT and do not forget to secure the servo horn to the servo output gear using the included M3 screw and bite-washer with a dab of BLUE loctite (NEVER RED). Use the outer “eyelet” on the servo horn to attach your steering link as that will give you smoother range of steering throw… the shorter eyelet will give a much quicker steering response, but can make it more difficult to control the x-maxx when steering needs to be less “jittery”. Bash on everyone! -Charles Moradi
Awesome looking servo my bro! I subbed man 👍💯⚡⚡⚡
Beware promodeler company.
John is super cold to his customers
I emailed him to thank him for his stuff and he chewed me out talking crap about the indestructible bodies.
All I could say was thanks John and told him I’ll never buy from him again ever
And I won’t promote him either
Awesome! Thanks man, I hope to have more time soon to start uploading more content. I have a few more ProModeler Servos I need to get installed and just trying to find some people here in Austin, TX that will lend me their 1/5 Scale for a day to get pics showing an installation of the new DS1735BLDP and DS2180BLDP servos that are 2S Direct Powered & Drop-In Fit servos for any 1/5 Scale Gasser or electric RC.
great help installing mine, works great. I broke the smaller promodeler servos for the xmaxx. My fault im abusive and have huge heavy tires along with massive kevin talbot style air)
That’s great to hear! The DS1885BLWR was made exclusively for the X-maxx/ [XRT compatible]. In fact, after lot’s of field testing the DS1155BLHV with big-air and second story over-pass launches, we discovered that the DS1155BLHV holds up to a point. So we went to the other end of the available motors and kept coming back to the DS2685BLHV Mega brushless servo motor. It’s the only 4S brushless motor and meant for 1/4 scale applications (but can be retro-fit into the 1/5 Arma chassis) and decided to design a casing that would allow the DS2685BLHV Mega motor in a small form-factor. Viola! DS1885BLWR was born! The difference in torque is due to the reduction gearing. We wanted a little more speed/reaction-time but enough stall torque to hold up under a 10X impact load! I’ve been able to launch my x-maxx repeatedly from a second-story highway overpass and nail those hard landings without any damage to the servo. It’s truly impossible to ever say something is “unbreakable” but in the world of servos, this is about as close as one can get to that label. The single biggest factor when considering the DS1885BLWR is being okay with the fact that a dedicated LiIon (preferred over Lipo because they have a much more stable shelf life) is needed to ensure 100% consistent performance each and every time. Charge usually lasts at least 2-3 runs between needing a charge from a 850mAh 4S LiIon.
Hi, great video! What bell crank and servo saver are you uding? Thanks!
Thanks!! Vitavon bell crank and Treal servo saver support brace.
Thank you
With all that material removed have you had any problems with the front bulkhead breaking
Not at all, in fact, this truck has been my most reliable build to date. I have like two front bulkheads that I’ve had on hand for over two years now that I just haven’t ever needed to use.
Getting ready to buy one of these servos. Buy once cry once. Also subscribed because between the video and your replies to comments, you’ve answered every question I’ve had about them. I can tell you got a wealth of RC knowledge. I do however have a more general question for servos. What is the difference between a seperate lipo and a BEC? How does a BEC work? And which setup is more better/reliable/beneficial? Thanks man. Appreciate it
So very glad to be able to help and thanks for subscribing! I hope to put out another install video for the DS2180BLDP soon (for the 1/5 Armas and Losi RCs). Email me at h3llfir3rc@gmail.com for in depth explanation (using diagrams) but to answer your question:
It’s best to think of electric power as Analog Audio vs Digital Audio. With Digital, the sound wave will show missing “bits” of audio in evenly spread out chunks… to the listener, the sound gaps are often indiscernible at 192bit/s… as the audio file quality decreases, the gaps become a little more obvious.
Back to RC Servo power comparing dedicated battery vs BEC:
BEC power is considered “dirty” and a lot like digital audio, in that the BEC power is siphoned off the main power supply to the ESC, then recycled into small accumulated voltage and current leakage. The problem here is that there are a lot of continuous “gaps” in power and the ESC will always divert power to the motor as the priority, especially when throttle is applied under motor load. This results in occasional interrupted voltage and current to the Servo.
Contrast that to a dedicated LiPo or LiIon battery supply, which is more like “analog audio”. The power is always at 100% and never has power interruption to the servo. In addition, depending on how your receiver is powered, a dedicated battery will allow you to maintain steering even if the ESC stops working (as long as you have a separate power supply to the receiver).
Overall, I recommend using a dedicated LiIon battery. LiIon batteries are more “forgiving” and can be left alone for longer periods of time without the battery going stale (cells begin to increase IR and discharge quickly). They can also be discharged more than usual without harming the battery, versus a traditional LiPo which needs to be monitored better to maintain voltage between 3.8V and 4.2V.
Think of it this way: You already bought the best motor and ESC for your set up, then the best big lipo basher batteries… and made a ton of upgrades, and now you just bought the “Ferrari” of servos, good decision! So, why would anyone power a Ferrari with regular unleaded gasoline? They don’t!!! So giving your servo the best power source makes sense to get the best performance, after all, that’s what you paid for😊 - PERFORMANCE (plus durability and reliability)!!!
Using a BEC is a second option and nothing wrong with it as some people don’t have room to fit another battery, or don’t want to create extra clutter… and this is perfectly okay, it will still allow the servo to perform, just not the way it does when using a dedicated battery pack. IF you decide to use a BEC, then I can only recommend the Castle BEC lines of BEC. Three in particular:
1. Castle Creations BEC 2.0 - I like this one because the wires and connectors can be easily changed, but it is not water proof and is not fully cased.
2. Castle Creations BEC 2.0 WP - This is a WaterProof (fully cased) version of the one above and the connectors can still be changed but the case is not easily opened to add a completely different pigtail with a different connector, so you will need to splice and solder the different connector. Again, not a big deal, but cumbersome for some people that are not proficient at soldering.
3. Castle Creation BEC PRO - the most durable and robust BEC but mostly reserved for those very Large Scale trucks, planes and boats to power several large scale servos… this is often times too large of a unit to mount anywhere inconspicuous.
There are other BECs that are also good, but the three above are the only ones I have tested and proven to be a reliable BEC.
When using a BEC to power your servo, you will need to know how to wire everything up. Email me and I can help walk you through that process.
@@h3llfir3rc awesome. I was under the assumption, that the BEC was the better option. I guess only because it was another part to add. Good to know the additional batttery is the better option, as that would be my preference anyways. And the explanation makes perfect sense. Thanks man! Much appreciated
@@adammidcal2425 Anytime! and yes, the dedicated pack is definitiely the way to go, but even I have had to use a BEC to power a servo, especially on certain space limited RC Builds. Not IDEAL, but an "okay" route, as long as I am using a high quality BEC. Last thing: Stay away from buck converter modules... these are not really the same and not engineered to handle the big surges in power from the mains. What ends up happening is that a surge from the mains (main batteries) overloads the buck converter (aka - step down) then sends a buck shot of surge to the servo and damages it bad if not, it kills it. The BECs I recommended have been Tested using 6S, 8S and 12S RC builds. There is one BEC that can be used for 16S but I have not personally tested it yet... but I plan to and that is the Hobbywing BEC. It's a BIG one though and costs around $80. It has some additional Failsafe connectors and very overkill, even for me, a guy that lives on overkill parts! Please share what you end up doing when you get your DS1885BLDP servo! I'd love to see how you set it up!
Thx for the video! what is the red piece in the main chassis who guide the main shaft? where to find it? thx regards
That’s a center shaft brace. I think there is a vendor on eBay that offers them:)
Does this kit come with everything? Including the Y-Harness or does that have to be purchased separate, and if so which one or item # is it?
It comes with the Servo and you will need to choose the add on option for X-Maxx, which will include the 15T Horn needed). The Servo comes with a separate XT30 connector wire so a Y-Harness is not necessary with this model. You will however, need a LiIon (or Lipo) to power this servo. I use the Flat 4S 850mAh 15C packs from Promodeler and sometimes use the Flat 4S 2000mAh 10C pack if I know I will be running the truck all day long. The difference in pack capacity: the 850mAh pack will get me through a couple packs of Main Lipo packs easy, while the 2000mAh LiIon pack will last through 4-5 Main Lipo packs. Both flat packs fit the width of the center chassis, where the ESC and motor are, so I use a simple accessory plate and mount it over the motor. I could just as easily use a Square style pack and mount it towards the front of the truck, again, using an accessory tray. Again, to sumarize, when you order the Midi "Porker", you will be prompted to choose if it is for X-MAxx, and when you do that, it will come with the 15T Horn. and you do NOT need a Y-HArness, but you will need a dedicated "propulsion" pack and can use either LiIon or Lipo, although I recommend LiIon because the packs are much more stable and can be run down a little further than Lipo without damaging the battery and can hold charge much longer than a LiPo without damaging the cells over time.
Hi, I would like to take also this big Servo, but I wonder why there are so less YT , is there a point why this servo is so less bought? Also whithout of the price. Are you still happy with the Servo? Today the are some more strong Servos, Savöx 2290 like mine, or Futaba 700, or OMG or Holms. Would you prefer also today the Promodeler 1888 ? Thank you and much greatings from Germany 🙂
Yes, I completely understand your question. I have probably failed at providing action video showing my servo working beautifully and as well as it did on the very first day. I have had this Servo for a long time now and steering is not something I ever need to worry about anymore. This servo is like the Ferrari of servos. It has reinforced hard points, bronze bushing inserts, and has been made to withstand extreme vibration distress, and impact tests that exceed military spec. This servo also uses a very large 15 tooth spline on its output gear. And the torque is truly amazing. I have been able to jump my truck off of a second story overpass using a ramp. That is probably around 55 feet of vertical drop and the servo works flawlessly after every landing. And the reason you see other people using different servos, is because they are often cheaper in price. But after I tried buying several different cheaper servos, I realized that I was just creating more frustration for myself. I finally replaced about nine servos, that could not hold up to my extreme abuse. That is, until I found a ProModeler. Promodeler Servo‘s are built with extreme bashers in mind. Should you ever manage to break this servo, Promodeler will gladly repair it for you. They offer a very fair limited warranty on manufacturing defects. They will not warranty for user error (like using inappropriate voltage or intentionally submerging the servo to play “submarine warfare”.) but they will still offer to repair it for a nominal charge. You can email me at H3ŁŁFįR3RC@gmail.com for more details if you’d like.
@@h3llfir3rc Thank you very much 🤗
@@h3llfir3rc Hi, finale I have also a 1885 😊. The Servo has a servocable with 3 Wires and a doublecable with 2 wires with a xt30 conector for the extra akku. Can I plug in the servocable in the Receicer or have to delete the middle cable , the Plus, when I use the separate accu without using the bec. Maybe the servo has a switch to use BEC and when plugin the separate accu the switch take the power from the accu and can ignore the plus from the receiver?
Best regards Andreas
@@slomofan2070 I emailed you back about 30min ago. No need to disconnect middle servo cable wire from the servo with the DS1885BLDP. The middle servo cable wire is necessary for nominal signal voltage from servo to the receiver since there is a unidirectional diode that prevents the servo from receiving any power from the receiver. The servo is 100% powered via the xt30 connector lead. So do not remove the servo connector’s power wire as it is configured differently than a traditional servo (traditional servos only have ONE wire and receive power from the receiver, so with a traditional servo, if you want to power it externally, then yes, you would need to use a rX bypass adapter or pull the servos middle power wire. NOT the case with the DS1885BLDP).
@@h3llfir3rc Thank you very much !🙂
What kind of charger do you use to charge your auxiliary battery?
I use a normal lipo charger. The main power lead has an XT30 connector, so I bought an Male XT30 to Female XT60 adapter (you can also make them yourself). Since that is what one of my chargers uses for the connection plug. I have an iCharger 406Duo and a Hobbymate D6 DuoPro as well. No need to use any special setting, it can be charged using the normal lipo parameters at max 2C charge rate. So, if it is a 2,000mAh pack, then I can charge at 4A.
@@h3llfir3rc thanks for the info!
Did you have to trim for that says you don’t on the xrt
Yes, on the front bulkhead, the leading base plate will need to be removed. Easy process and I have several pictures to illustrate this if you’d like to email me at h3llfir3rc@gmail.com. I’d be happy to provide more details on behalf of Promodeler.
like the video but, whats with the rats nest of wires i know though its highly modded so you have a pass! sweet video...
Yeah, I blame castle for their 300mm long wire leads - LOL! I've since pulled the XLX2 and installed a 400A Flier ESC... little more manageable now... and surpisingly turns the Hobbystar 56112 into a complete uncaged animal. But you are right, I need better wire management before next video upload:)
Could one just plug the servo to ONE of the batteries of the x maxx ?!
To answer the question, yes, it will work, but not well: I don’t recommend using a balance lead on one of the 4S packs because of the current surge that occurs when the servo is under load. It can fry the wires on the balance wires and the connector pins. I say this from personal experience of this happening. This is why a dedicated LiIon or Lipo would be best. Plus, should there ever be a problem with the Lipos, or the ESC in the future, the servo will not be subject to any of those damaging effects. Hope this helps….
@@h3llfir3rc thx for the reply but i would tap the power straight from the battery connector...
@@guillaumedubois8896 I definitely would not do that since it will be giving the servo 33.6V, which is 2x of what it is rated for. When two batteries are connected in series, you will get the sum of the batteries voltage, regardless of which connector you try to tap. The only way to get only 14.8V from an individual lipo is from the balance leads, but again, I would not recommend doing that. To verify what I am saying, Tap the wires with a voltage meter, once it’s fully-connected and you will see what I mean.
@@h3llfir3rc i know that but my plan is to tap on the first battery conector before the second battery double the voltage since they are plug in series...
@@guillaumedubois8896 - Ah! I see what you mean now. This will work as long as you are not tapping any of the series wires. Keep in mind that even though this will technically work, the servo performance will be subject to voltage drop by the Lipo itself if you are hard on the throttle. If you insist on not using a dedicated LiIon pack to power this servo (you rate not alone in this as there are quite a few people that do not like using a dedicated pack to power the servo), I would at the very least recommend you do NOT tap the main lipo pack directly, rather, tap the series wires at the base of the ESC main +/- wires and attached a capable BEC, like the Castle BEC Pro or BEC 2.0. This will at least regulate the voltage output to the servo and help prevent any big surges/drops in voltage/current to the servo. This servo really is the very best there is for X-Maxx, and I am only offering some helpful tips for you to get the absolute best performance 100% of the time:) Happy Bashing!
That’s a $320 servo? For the money I’d want to see 3x the performance you’d get from the Traxxas upgraded servo
I burnt through three 2085X, two 2290Savöx, reefs555, and a couple of knock off servos. Haven’t had a single issue with the DS1885BLDP since I installed it. My only regret was not doing it sooner. So, I’m response to your question, I’d say it’s 10x better than the 2085X. Even MORE importantly, steering is now the last thing I concern myself with. The servo will hold a turn at 55mph with badlands MX43 which weigh 2.25lbs each wheel. 1885oz-in is over 135kg-cm torque.
@@h3llfir3rc fair enough. I just destroyed my first stock servo running the same mx43 badlands. I still sent it out for warranty ($40 replacement) but I can see this servo being a problem….thing is a mf’r to access too. I figure the less times I have to work on that servo the better. I just wish this promodeler was a little cheaper, I’d be all over it for 200
@@4200Shields I hear ya! After a while, it wasn’t even about the money. More about the down time. I don’t have lots of time as it is to actually run my RCs so when I finally get an afternoon to do it, charge 4-5 pairs of LiPos, drive out somewhere, find a spot and then break the servo 5min into the day, it is defeating. The cost is steep, but it’s been the sole reason I’ve been able to get through a full afternoon of running truck instead of wrenching it.
Last thing: the price will never be less than it is now. We both know that everything has gone up in price including castle XLX2 ESC recently. Along with their motor costs. Same ESC, same motors, higher price. If you have done any serious upgrades, then you know a castle XLX2 will cost $295 at the register. A castle 2028 series motor can cost $320 (1700kv) at the register. And don’t get me started on Hobbywing Max4 ESC ($449) or the HW70125 ($349) and then the superstar ESC from MGM (x3 40035) that costs $750!! So, maybe not you (yet), but the guys running those powerful power plants need to include the servo as part of the whole system. Power is cool but can be a liability if the steering is junk. Makes sense right? You spent $200 on MX43 badlands because the truck handled like junk on stock tires. Traxxas did an amazing job at pushing the absolute limit with X-Maxx and XRT. THE MOMENT anything is changed, there is a cause & effect situation. It’s wild to consider that they really made that truck so well balanced as long as NOTHING is changed. That’s the reason it’s not a true 1/5 scale truck. And why the servo is not a 1/6 or a 1/5 servo. The design engineer was able to scale everything to run just right at that scaled size and weight ratio. Otherwise, they would have made it a 1/5 scale truck. I’m sure it would have been a dog speed-wise though.
@@h3llfir3rc you called it. While I’m waiting for my xmaxx servo to get warrantied, I’ve been bashing my maxx 4s. Drive 30mins to the spot (a nice little bmx track) only to have ANOTHER servo failure after 10mins of driving. This time on the maxx. Now, of all of a sudden, paying 300 for a servo doesn’t sound so bad if it means I’ll never have to worry about it again. I’m leaning towards a savox servo. They stock them at my local hobby shop and the prices are decent ~$150.
That all said, I got a solid 4 months of HEAVY bashing out my xmaxx with relatively few problems. Thing is a beast, same with the maxx. But this servo is garbage. I REALLY don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of buying new motor & esc just to run these tires.