genius. landscape architect here, almost exclusively do it at home projects at this point - clients are conservative, to the detriment in fact. i like your ideas, keep posting them. btw this jacuzzi cover - exactly what i want to do to here. the way my space is set, under a sunroom bump out 10' up, i'm thinking of doubling the top as either a low japanese style table or a flop day bed (it overlooks a stream). thanks for sharing.
Very nice work... and a very cool look. The only thing I would caution folks about is that when you sink a hot tub in hole or in ground type setting, it makes repairs very difficult. I've had spas at two homes for the last 20 years, and I have had to repair both on occasion. Had they been recessed in the ground, those would been pretty difficult to accomplish. On one, I had to rebuild the two speed pump... that was hard enough to get out in the open. I'm not sure how I would have done that recessed in the ground. Not hating at all, beautiful spa! Just something to keep in mind.
Thanks Rick, fair comment. There are removable wood covers on the sides where the filter and also the motor/front are. lifting those out allows a 2 ft open area on both sides down to the base of the spa.
Very cool, I had been thinking of this idea but couldn’t figure how to do it. Had also seen the pools and spas that just sink out of the way and the floor somehow comes up or out (even with rest of room’s floor. You use as a dance floor or meeting room but then you press a button, the floor goes away and you have your pool back in minutes. How do you get under your tub to do any possible repairs? Do you just lift out the slatted “floor”panels? Also, could you actually show us how you do the lights - just not quite clear - for us dummies who aren’t mechanically inclined 😳.
Kevin this is exactly what I've been trying to conceptualize. I have a fantastic coverd patio with a gas fireplace and have been trying to figure out how to place a hot tub in that space and still have a usable deck when not using the hot tub. Do you have the plans you used to create this masterpiece?
Sorry Eric- I searched my files but did not find any drawings. On this project I found the challenges were mostly in the elevations. First getting the hole deep enough (5' below grade) for the tub, plus a french drain under so the hole would not fill with rainwater. if you consider the top edge of the tub at grade, you dig down past your tub height, then backfill with gravel to level it out. Then above grade you plan the rolling deck with the ratchet system to move the spa cover up and down. A steel frame gives you the stiffness to support the deck and leave space for the cover to lift a few inches when rolling. If I did it over I would base the deck on a 12" height rather than the 10" in the video. I could've used a couple more inches for the movement of the cover inside. Also the rails have to be super parallel so the bearing wheels track smooth. I just used cement bolts to attach the rails to the cement walls.
Hi Keltie- I searched my files but did not find any drawings. I did drawings to layout the cross section detail for the wheels/rails clearance, but from there it was a lot of measuring and adjusting to make it work. If you are into DIY you'll know how iterative building one-off custom projects are. Overall this it the process: A deep hole with your hot tub in it, with removable wood treads so you can service the spa (see where I step down onto wood treads in video). Cement walls on 3 sides (I used cinder blocks coated in cement. Then: 1. 0.124" x 8" steel plate rails topped with 0,375" rod, mounted to 1" spacers to stand off from the cement walls- (see in video) 2. Stainless steel V-groove gate wheels mounted to a steel frame that spans the tracks. 3. A bicycle chain ratchet system to lift/lower the spa cover (see in video) 4. Wood deck and facia boards screwed to the steel frame (I bolted wood to the steel frame so it was easier to screw the deck down). On this project I found the challenges were mostly in the elevations. First getting the hole deep enough (5' below grade) for the tub, plus a french drain under so the hole would not fill with rainwater. if you consider the top edge of the tub at grade, you dig down past your tub height, then backfill with gravel to level it out. Then above grade you plan the rolling deck with the ratchet system to move the spa cover up and down. A steel frame gives you the stiffness to support the deck and leave space for the cover to lift a few inches when rolling. If I did it over I would base the deck on a 12" height rather than the 10" in the video. I could've used a couple more inches for the movement of the cover inside. Also the rails have to be super parallel so the bearing wheels track smooth. I just used cement bolts to attach the rails to the cement walls. Hope that helps!
Hi Mike- I searched "brick ledge lights" and this came right up- it's been a few years so I'm sure there are better choices: www.c2clights.com/SRD-UR7LED.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIguT0l_CO6QIVKx6tBh0wbQ_bEAQYAiABEgKaKvD_BwE
Hi Anthony- Not any more than would from general exposure to the weather, because in the closed position the cover keeps the steam inside the spa. I recently pulled the deck boards and serviced the chains with grease, first time in 6 years. While everything was working they were stiff and I should have been doing it at least every couple of years.
+Michael Epperly I just used standard stainless steel 3" bearing gate V roller wheels, but instead of angle iron tracks I used 1/4" plate steel set on edge. So far the wheels are holding up fine.
+Kevin Murphy thanks for the reply. I had in mind useing roler gate parts but couldn't figure how to flush mount the track. You've helped me solve that dilemma. I'll probably machine my own rollers and I have plans to use a gear rack driven sliding gate motor to actuate the entire thing.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow this is mighty impressive! Thank you for posting and writing up how to do it for those of us keen to try. Appreciate this very much!
genius. landscape architect here, almost exclusively do it at home projects at this point - clients are conservative, to the detriment in fact. i like your ideas, keep posting them. btw this jacuzzi cover - exactly what i want to do to here. the way my space is set, under a sunroom bump out 10' up, i'm thinking of doubling the top as either a low japanese style table or a flop day bed (it overlooks a stream). thanks for sharing.
Awesome - very smart approach to your design. Well done!
thanks Steve!
Very nice work... and a very cool look. The only thing I would caution folks about is that when you sink a hot tub in hole or in ground type setting, it makes repairs very difficult. I've had spas at two homes for the last 20 years, and I have had to repair both on occasion. Had they been recessed in the ground, those would been pretty difficult to accomplish. On one, I had to rebuild the two speed pump... that was hard enough to get out in the open. I'm not sure how I would have done that recessed in the ground. Not hating at all, beautiful spa! Just something to keep in mind.
Thanks Rick, fair comment. There are removable wood covers on the sides where the filter and also the motor/front are. lifting those out allows a 2 ft open area on both sides down to the base of the spa.
Great stuff!
Very Cool!
Thank you Issac- it still works like the day I shot this video 8 years ago :)
Very cool, I had been thinking of this idea but couldn’t figure how to do it. Had also seen the pools and spas that just sink out of the way and the floor somehow comes up or out (even with rest of room’s floor. You use as a dance floor or meeting room but then you press a button, the floor goes away and you have your pool back in minutes. How do you get under your tub to do any possible repairs? Do you just lift out the slatted “floor”panels? Also, could you actually show us how you do the lights - just not quite clear - for us dummies who aren’t mechanically inclined 😳.
Slick as snot
Thanks for the chuckle, hadn't heard that phrase in ages- My dad always said that
Do you have plans on how you built the deck itself to withstand suitable weight?
This is a great setup. I am thinking about doing this. How much money would you say it was not including the hot tub?
I'm guessing this dude would have to charge at least 250k to make it worth his time.
Kevin, looks great! I want to do a pool rolling deck, any suggestions? Thanks, Val
Kevin this is exactly what I've been trying to conceptualize. I have a fantastic coverd patio with a gas fireplace and have been trying to figure out how to place a hot tub in that space and still have a usable deck when not using the hot tub. Do you have the plans you used to create this masterpiece?
Sorry Eric- I searched my files but did not find any drawings. On this project I found the challenges were mostly in the elevations. First getting the hole deep enough (5' below grade) for the tub, plus a french drain under so the hole would not fill with rainwater. if you consider the top edge of the tub at grade, you dig down past your tub height, then backfill with gravel to level it out. Then above grade you plan the rolling deck with the ratchet system to move the spa cover up and down. A steel frame gives you the stiffness to support the deck and leave space for the cover to lift a few inches when rolling. If I did it over I would base the deck on a 12" height rather than the 10" in the video. I could've used a couple more inches for the movement of the cover inside. Also the rails have to be super parallel so the bearing wheels track smooth. I just used cement bolts to attach the rails to the cement walls.
Kevin. I want to build this exactly! I need help! Do you have directions online anywhere!
Hi Keltie- I searched my files but did not find any drawings. I did drawings to layout the cross section detail for the wheels/rails clearance, but from there it was a lot of measuring and adjusting to make it work. If you are into DIY you'll know how iterative building one-off custom projects are.
Overall this it the process:
A deep hole with your hot tub in it, with removable wood treads so you can service the spa (see where I step down onto wood treads in video). Cement walls on 3 sides (I used cinder blocks coated in cement. Then:
1. 0.124" x 8" steel plate rails topped with 0,375" rod, mounted to 1" spacers to stand off from the cement walls- (see in video)
2. Stainless steel V-groove gate wheels mounted to a steel frame that spans the tracks.
3. A bicycle chain ratchet system to lift/lower the spa cover (see in video)
4. Wood deck and facia boards screwed to the steel frame (I bolted wood to the steel frame so it was easier to screw the deck down).
On this project I found the challenges were mostly in the elevations. First getting the hole deep enough (5' below grade) for the tub, plus a french drain under so the hole would not fill with rainwater. if you consider the top edge of the tub at grade, you dig down past your tub height, then backfill with gravel to level it out. Then above grade you plan the rolling deck with the ratchet system to move the spa cover up and down. A steel frame gives you the stiffness to support the deck and leave space for the cover to lift a few inches when rolling. If I did it over I would base the deck on a 12" height rather than the 10" in the video. I could've used a couple more inches for the movement of the cover inside. Also the rails have to be super parallel so the bearing wheels track smooth. I just used cement bolts to attach the rails to the cement walls.
Hope that helps!
Please share a link for the brick lights?
Hi Mike- I searched "brick ledge lights" and this came right up- it's been a few years so I'm sure there are better choices: www.c2clights.com/SRD-UR7LED.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIguT0l_CO6QIVKx6tBh0wbQ_bEAQYAiABEgKaKvD_BwE
Hi Kevin, great job, looks great where did you find those lights?? cheers
Thanks Gerardo- here's the manufacturer they are about $50 each online www.focusindustries.com/product/sl-42-sl-43/
have the chains rusted solid yet - from bromine/chlorine off gassing?
Hi Anthony- Not any more than would from general exposure to the weather, because in the closed position the cover keeps the steam inside the spa. I recently pulled the deck boards and serviced the chains with grease, first time in 6 years. While everything was working they were stiff and I should have been doing it at least every couple of years.
where did you get your rail and rollers? I've been all over the Internet including mcmaster Carr and cannot find the right application.
+Michael Epperly I just used standard stainless steel 3" bearing gate V roller wheels, but instead of angle iron tracks I used 1/4" plate steel set on edge. So far the wheels are holding up fine.
+Kevin Murphy thanks for the reply. I had in mind useing roler gate parts but couldn't figure how to flush mount the track. You've helped me solve that dilemma. I'll probably machine my own rollers and I have plans to use a gear rack driven sliding gate motor to actuate the entire thing.
Did this rig pass code/inspection?