Our 2004 Volvo XC70 has about 230,000 miles. We purchased over 10 years ago with about 90,000 miles. The first few oil changes had filters with sludge. PVC system is a contribution to the reputation these 2.5 liter turbo motor create sludge. Ours runs great. Wonderful car. Suggest using FCP euro for parts.
@@monoralph1375 100%. The PCV design on these is asinine. I recently replaced it. Hoping for another 100k miles! I almost always use FCP! Actually just replaced the front sway bar assembly which I sourced from them.
I just tore apart the filter in my daughter's car as well. It's a 2017 impreza with around 60,000 miles. The last oil change, I used amsoil signature series with an amsoil filter. The cars check engine light came on for the oil control valve and I was hearing some valve tapping since the part wasn't working. Turns out that the amsoil cleaned the motor so good that it clogged the filter and it was causing a loss in oil pressure. I didn't get amsoil again because I have to order it online and couldn't get it soon enough so I used the valvoline restore and protect. Hopefully the amsoil did a good enough job the first time but I will be changing the filter every 1000 miles. Luckily the filter is right on top on the subaru so you really don't have to worry about losing any more oil than the filter media holds itself so I'll just have to add maybe half a qt every time I change it.
legit advice. oil bypass has alot to do with oil thickness cool vs hot. the bypass of filters was originally designed for thicker oils upon startup, then to seal as the oil thinned out. though valveoline r+p is no ordinary oil, using it on a fully sludge motor is asking for problems without a diligent checks and balances.
I would bet the sludge and particles are inside the engine. Just keep changing the oil regularly as it will cleanout the machine for sure. The oil pleats in the filter are really dirty fella. Good luck with the Volve. Happy New Year for sure. Peace vf
This is the best video I’ve seen so far on Valvoline R&P. I’m debating whether to try this on a high mileage Volvo I bought 8 months ago or continue with my usual full synthetic oil.
When I checked my XG9018 Fram Ultra Synthetic at 811 miles the filter/pleats had turned from Snow White to Jet Black, but when pressing/scraping the pleats they would reveal the white color of the media before the oil soaked back in... Coming up on 3000 miles soon and I'm hoping I don't get thick/paste like gritty sludge...hoping like the other filters it'll be dirty but mostly liquid and microscopic... Good luck everyone
Just finished taking Samples from my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD 2.4L Ecotec and changed the XG9018 Filter at 3000 miles. (Even Recorded my first TH-cam (Short) Video to Document it). The "Black" was still consistently distributed and the Pleats weren't"Caked/Sludged" at all... the Oil from the Cap was fluid and didn't seem "dirty" or chunky. Unlike before (811 miles vs 3008 miles) the Filter Pleats didn't return to a bright white when pressed/scraped... They did lighten some (kind of looking more like a "traditional" brownish Filter Media... But also rather dark, wouldn't think it was ever White and the "brown" more likely... The back (clean") side of the filter looked "good", no "dirty Oil" or fully "Darkened" Pleats on the "filtered" side. Had Intended to do a full Drain/Filter today but I also wanted to see what the Analysis looked like and if VRP and a fresh filter would still perform for another 1000-2000 (5k) miles. Had been down about 1/2 quart before sampling today... It was taking a long while to "drain down" so I "topped off" with about 20 Oz of Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic (DexosGen3)... To hopefully get back to around the 1/2Qt low I started with after "filling" the new Cartridge Filter... Will be interesting to see if just 4 (of 5Qts) of VRP can still do a fair amount of cleaning work with the Quaker State "Contamination" holding it back...
The only reason I went with VR&P is because my make/model/year has a TSB for oil consumption due to low tension oil control rings. Whilst it had no consumption at 125K, I want to keep it that way. At least hedge against the possibility. Now, if the engine had obvious sludge, I think I would have just left it and reduced my oil change mileage interval. Not sure I’d want to mobilize sludge deposits and possibly cause VVT system problems. I’m very pleased with the VR&P. The engine runs very quiet/smooth on the product. The first change at 2.5K miles yielded a good looking filter. I’ll be using VR&P for the rest of my rig’s serviceable life.
I think the low tension thing is what’s gonna make this product famous… Not sure what you mean by “mobilize contaminants”… removing the filter and cleaning the housing etc and installing a new filter isn’t mobilizing anything that wasn’t already mobile.
Others have done examination of the VVT parts before and after using restore and protect, and it cleaned all of the VVT parts and smoothed up their idle. Cleaned the varnish and sludge from screens in the VVT solenoids, making them look brand new again.
@DirtE30 I think he means that the VR&P does such a good job of loosening junk and getting it moving toward the filter. All that movement of lots of junk has to pass thru the engine from wherever it is, just to GET to the filter. That's a lot of opportunity for large amounts of dislodged junk to get into places where it can cause more harm. How much of that actually happens in an engine I have no personal experience. But some people have posted about it. And in cases of major-ly sludged-up engines it does make perfect sense. I do have experience of that happening with an automatic transmission once, so I do understand it. I think that @EvzenKovar-i5p was saying that for major-ly sludged-up engines, instead of that risk, if one stays with a good synthetic with high additives, but not VR&P and just reduce the interval, it will remove junk much more gradually with less chances of getting large amounts caught in other areas of the engine. That said, I wrote and asked Valvoline about it, and they wrote back and specifically said it's designed to work at a more gentle pace, and not clog filters at all. But I've now seen several videos where it HAS clogged a filter. The stuff apparently DOES WORK and VERY WELL. It just makes a LOT of sense if I'm gonna use it to CHANGE JUST THE FILTER after a very short time, say 1000 to 2500 miles as @DirtE30 said right in this vid. Cut open the filter and see where I am. Run the oil itself for 5000 miles is fine, but at least one filter change if not two, and OPEN THEM to see where I am. Gradually extend the miles on each filter as I am finding them clean.
If I had an engine that was heavily sludged, I would worry that mobilizing that stuff would constrict small passageways and screens. Now maybe VR&P can break it down small enough for this not to be a concern, but I would be hesitant at least with those fine screens that feed oil into the variable valve timing solenoids of so many modern engines. Ultimately, I’m not sure if my reasoning is well founded. Those comments of mine were sorta me just thinking out loud.
Just 15 minutes of Luqui Moly filled up the oil filter on my kid's Hyundai with carbon chunks. Running the Valvoline for 3000k miles really does a job as well.
If you're going to own a Volvo with dubious maintenance history, change the timing belt. I paid the local dealership to change my belt. Did they? No, as it turns out. But even with replacing 20 valves, the car finally died at 500k km. when it got hit. The engine was full of sludge, even with me changing the synthetic oil about every 7500 km, and the PCV system still packed up enough to blow out the rear main seal. But it was the cam belt that did the damage to the engine, not the sludge. Replace the cam belt and get the tech to show you the one that they pulled out.
@@andreichichak5242 I replaced the TB and water pump first thing. Not a hard job on these really. I have also replaced the PCV system in its entirety. Along with every other weak point I could find lol. 😂
@@DirtE30 No, I'm in Canada and we don't play that card very frequently, plus the dealership changed hands in the mean time, so the liability chain would be broken.
@ I would still think that simple paperwork and proof that you paid for work that wasn’t done would be grounds for them to make it right. One way or another. Sorry that happened to you. Neighbor had the same thing happen locally recently. I ended up confronting the dealership about it. They had zero intentions of fessing up until I posted a video with evidence and they suddenly had a change of heart.
The question I have is what does the oil pan look like with this much sludge? Does Restore & Protect have enough cleaning properties to loosen the oil pan sludge.
Well, hard to say but I don’t have reason to doubt that it would eventually get it cleaned up. Not dropping the pan to find out though. It’s not leaking (shhh…)
@@CharlesCurran-m9p did you watch the video? lol That’s exactly what we’re discussing here. For the record, the filter was far from “clogged” but definitely wouldn’t run it 5k with an engine that is known to have a heavy build up.
That specific oil filter has terrible flow characteristics. Try a Purolator Boss next time. Equal filtering capability but with 3 times better flow characteristic.
Beggars and choosers around here sometimes. But I agree, I’m a purolator fan. This last one I put on was a standard Purolator and it looked considerably better.
@LeadStarDude What about the Purolator ONE? Do you know if it has the same flow characteristics as the BOSS? If planning to change the filter every few thousand miles and go thru ten of them in short order, I would like to use one that's less expensive if I can! Please share whatever you might know about the ONE instead of the BOSS THANKS!
@jeffs3917 The Purolator One is pretty much the same as the Mobil One filter. Both offer decent filtering with a synthetic blend filter media, but both restrict oil flow compared to the Purolator Boss. Purolator Boss has a fully synthetic filter media. It filters better and flows better. If you change your oil every 3k miles the the Boss may not be necessary, and either of those other two will do fine. I do 5k mile oil changes with fully synthetic oil, so I use the Boss. Regardless, the Boss still filters better, and both the cold flow and hot flow are way less restricted. So that's up to you. I like the idea of having both better filtering and better oil flow.
Do you have any data on the Fram Ultra Synthetic or the Fram Synthtic Endurance? They both have a full synthetic media as well, would you say either or those would have flow chacteristics comparable to the Purolator BOSS? I'd love to hear your opinion on that 🙂 What I'm thinking to do is run VR&P for the next at least 4 oil changes, about 5k miles on each oil change, which I now anticipate needing at least 8-10 filters for. Before I realized I'd probably need so many filters, I was planning to use the Fram Synthetic Endurance. Once I did realize how many filters it might actually take, I then thought to use the Purolator ONE, which is less than half the cost. If I'm gonna need 8-10 filters to do this job, and none will go over 5000 miles, some only 1000 or 2000 I'd really rather use $6 filters than $13 filters if I could! That said, I really want to catch maximum crap (with minimum risk of returning some of the crap to the engine). And if that really calls for the better flow characteristics for maximum success, $60-70 difference is no big deal. I just don't want to waste 20-25k mile filters if I don't need to when I'll barely be going 2-5k miles on each one. I think the best answer for that I just spelled out myself. But I'll still appreciate hearing your opinion about that too 👍
so basically if your running a "cleaning oil" change it every 3k.but change filters every 1500k.by 3k its likely to go into bypass often, the half that crap gets washed off the filter media & then pumped thru your engine.defeating the whole purpose of a filter in the first place.putting a bypass valve past all the collected dirt & grime is the largest dumbass move in automotive design history.instead of filtering oil, the filter is merely a holding area for dirt untill bypassed right back to the bearings.BRILLIANT!!!
@@timkis64 actually it’s 100% necessary as if you didn’t have a bypass, the sump would simply be sucked dry as the oil couldn’t return to the pan due to the restriction of the clogged filter. Dirty oil is better than no oil 100% of the time. In a perfect world you don’t need such but it actually goes into bypass during cold starts etc pretty regularly.
Bypass valves are needed, yes. But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter. It needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all. Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media. With that much junk all over the pleats, on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine. How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that. I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem. As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue. But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one.
@@DirtE30 I didn’t see Owen Hill’s response as it seems to have been deleted. Did you do that? Not that I care but I just find it interesting this back-and-forth sometime. I get banned from TH-cam all the time but that’s because of political objections. anyway hope you have a happy new year and your Carr continues to run as expected… planned obsolescence is going to get all of us in the end though because we know they could build a machine that could last our lifetime and we wouldn’t have to buy several cars. I’ve had 40 because I don’t wanna fuck with the repairs but now I’m old and a fixed income so I’m trying to get as much life as I can my dearly departed wife, mini countryman with 120,000 miles on it now I’ve got an oil leak that I’ve got to spend a bunch of money to get repaired… it would only cost like $15 to get the so I’m thinking about waiting until it gets warmer and having my buddy help me he said he would terms turn some wrenches with me. I just hope I don’t ruin everything… because that would indicate I’ve entered the twilight zone of Caddyshack,where, ”… you’ll get nothing, …and like it!!”.😂
@@DirtE30 Bypass valves are needed, yes. But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter, at least when cleaning out the engine. The safety valve needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all. Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media. When cleaning (like with what VR&P does) with that much junk all over the pleats -- on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine. How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that. I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem. As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue. But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one. And if possible, for at least the first round, I would really rather NOT HAVE a bypass valve. Just to make sure that collected crap can't get back into the engine.
Ok..Everyone please read the SDS (safety data sheet) on Valvoline Restore Protect Oil..This stuff will disolve the carbon...but it will disolve all rubber seals in the process.."Miracle in a bottle?"..Go back to ATF or Diesel Fuel basic Oil Flush....
@@tonybernheim8365 what makes you say that? Specifically what about its chemistry makes you think this will be an issue? We’re not talking about a flu by night company that has no clue what they’re doing here… I’ve got a collective 15k miles on two different vehicles now and have had zero issues with leaks or seals. One of which has over 250k miles on it.
@@Daniel-qe8qe are you saying you couldn’t hear me clearly in the video? It’s clear on my end and no one else has mentioned this. Maybe it’s time for some ear pieces? Lol
Our 2004 Volvo XC70 has about 230,000 miles. We purchased over 10 years ago with about 90,000 miles. The first few oil changes had filters with sludge. PVC system is a contribution to the reputation these 2.5 liter turbo motor create sludge. Ours runs great. Wonderful car. Suggest using FCP euro for parts.
@@monoralph1375 100%. The PCV design on these is asinine. I recently replaced it. Hoping for another 100k miles! I almost always use FCP! Actually just replaced the front sway bar assembly which I sourced from them.
FYI Valvoline has a rebate of $5 for any 5 quarts of oil through 08/31/25! You just give your email and phone number and then text copy of receipt.
I just tore apart the filter in my daughter's car as well. It's a 2017 impreza with around 60,000 miles. The last oil change, I used amsoil signature series with an amsoil filter. The cars check engine light came on for the oil control valve and I was hearing some valve tapping since the part wasn't working. Turns out that the amsoil cleaned the motor so good that it clogged the filter and it was causing a loss in oil pressure. I didn't get amsoil again because I have to order it online and couldn't get it soon enough so I used the valvoline restore and protect.
Hopefully the amsoil did a good enough job the first time but I will be changing the filter every 1000 miles. Luckily the filter is right on top on the subaru so you really don't have to worry about losing any more oil than the filter media holds itself so I'll just have to add maybe half a qt every time I change it.
@@KushestWRX simple enough to remove the VVT solenoid and clean the inlet.
legit advice. oil bypass has alot to do with oil thickness cool vs hot.
the bypass of filters was originally designed for thicker oils upon startup, then to seal as the oil thinned out.
though valveoline r+p is no ordinary oil,
using it on a fully sludge motor is asking for problems without a diligent checks and balances.
You’re saving the cars life. I would like to see the 4 th change 😮 it should be much clearer.
@@daflinttownflipper7394 I’ll do it rest assured!
Stay with 3-to-5K OCI. There's plenty of filter media, so it's not even close to catastrophic clogging. I use VR&P with excellent results.
I would bet the sludge and particles are inside the engine. Just keep changing the oil regularly as it will cleanout the machine for sure. The oil pleats in the filter are really dirty fella. Good luck with the Volve.
Happy New Year for sure. Peace vf
@@victoryfirst2878 I think we all agree there. Lol
This is the best video I’ve seen so far on Valvoline R&P. I’m debating whether to try this on a high mileage Volvo I bought 8 months ago or continue with my usual full synthetic oil.
That's cool I just changed oil last week with valvoline restore and protect will change after one month
You dont need to unless your engine is really bad. Change your filter after 1000 miles if you're concerned.
When I checked my XG9018 Fram Ultra Synthetic at 811 miles the filter/pleats had turned from Snow White to Jet Black, but when pressing/scraping the pleats they would reveal the white color of the media before the oil soaked back in...
Coming up on 3000 miles soon and I'm hoping I don't get thick/paste like gritty sludge...hoping like the other filters it'll be dirty but mostly liquid and microscopic...
Good luck everyone
Just finished taking Samples from my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD 2.4L Ecotec and changed the XG9018 Filter at 3000 miles. (Even Recorded my first TH-cam (Short) Video to Document it).
The "Black" was still consistently distributed and the Pleats weren't"Caked/Sludged" at all... the Oil from the Cap was fluid and didn't seem "dirty" or chunky.
Unlike before (811 miles vs 3008 miles) the Filter Pleats didn't return to a bright white when pressed/scraped... They did lighten some (kind of looking more like a "traditional" brownish Filter Media... But also rather dark, wouldn't think it was ever White and the "brown" more likely... The back (clean") side of the filter looked "good", no "dirty Oil" or fully "Darkened" Pleats on the "filtered" side.
Had Intended to do a full Drain/Filter today but I also wanted to see what the Analysis looked like and if VRP and a fresh filter would still perform for another 1000-2000 (5k) miles.
Had been down about 1/2 quart before sampling today... It was taking a long while to "drain down" so I "topped off" with about 20 Oz of Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic (DexosGen3)... To hopefully get back to around the 1/2Qt low I started with after "filling" the new Cartridge Filter...
Will be interesting to see if just 4 (of 5Qts) of VRP can still do a fair amount of cleaning work with the Quaker State "Contamination" holding it back...
The only reason I went with VR&P is because my make/model/year has a TSB for oil consumption due to low tension oil control rings. Whilst it had no consumption at 125K, I want to keep it that way. At least hedge against the possibility.
Now, if the engine had obvious sludge, I think I would have just left it and reduced my oil change mileage interval. Not sure I’d want to mobilize sludge deposits and possibly cause VVT system problems.
I’m very pleased with the VR&P. The engine runs very quiet/smooth on the product. The first change at 2.5K miles yielded a good looking filter. I’ll be using VR&P for the rest of my rig’s serviceable life.
I think the low tension thing is what’s gonna make this product famous…
Not sure what you mean by “mobilize contaminants”… removing the filter and cleaning the housing etc and installing a new filter isn’t mobilizing anything that wasn’t already mobile.
Others have done examination of the VVT parts before and after using restore and protect, and it cleaned all of the VVT parts and smoothed up their idle. Cleaned the varnish and sludge from screens in the VVT solenoids, making them look brand new again.
@DirtE30 I think he means that the VR&P does such a good job of loosening junk and getting it moving toward the filter. All that movement of lots of junk has to pass thru the engine from wherever it is, just to GET to the filter. That's a lot of opportunity for large amounts of dislodged junk to get into places where it can cause more harm.
How much of that actually happens in an engine I have no personal experience. But some people have posted about it. And in cases of major-ly sludged-up engines it does make perfect sense. I do have experience of that happening with an automatic transmission once, so I do understand it.
I think that @EvzenKovar-i5p was saying that for major-ly sludged-up engines, instead of that risk, if one stays with a good synthetic with high additives, but not VR&P and just reduce the interval, it will remove junk much more gradually with less chances of getting large amounts caught in other areas of the engine.
That said, I wrote and asked Valvoline about it, and they wrote back and specifically said it's designed to work at a more gentle pace, and not clog filters at all.
But I've now seen several videos where it HAS clogged a filter.
The stuff apparently DOES WORK and VERY WELL. It just makes a LOT of sense if I'm gonna use it to CHANGE JUST THE FILTER after a very short time, say 1000 to 2500 miles as @DirtE30 said right in this vid. Cut open the filter and see where I am. Run the oil itself for 5000 miles is fine, but at least one filter change if not two, and OPEN THEM to see where I am. Gradually extend the miles on each filter as I am finding them clean.
If I had an engine that was heavily sludged, I would worry that mobilizing that stuff would constrict small passageways and screens. Now maybe VR&P can break it down small enough for this not to be a concern, but I would be hesitant at least with those fine screens that feed oil into the variable valve timing solenoids of so many modern engines.
Ultimately, I’m not sure if my reasoning is well founded. Those comments of mine were sorta me just thinking out loud.
Just 15 minutes of Luqui Moly filled up the oil filter on my kid's Hyundai with carbon chunks. Running the Valvoline for 3000k miles really does a job as well.
If you're going to own a Volvo with dubious maintenance history, change the timing belt.
I paid the local dealership to change my belt. Did they? No, as it turns out. But even with replacing 20 valves, the car finally died at 500k km. when it got hit.
The engine was full of sludge, even with me changing the synthetic oil about every 7500 km, and the PCV system still packed up enough to blow out the rear main seal. But it was the cam belt that did the damage to the engine, not the sludge.
Replace the cam belt and get the tech to show you the one that they pulled out.
@@andreichichak5242 I replaced the TB and water pump first thing. Not a hard job on these really. I have also replaced the PCV system in its entirety. Along with every other weak point I could find lol. 😂
@@andreichichak5242 did you sue them?
@@DirtE30 No, I'm in Canada and we don't play that card very frequently, plus the dealership changed hands in the mean time, so the liability chain would be broken.
@ I would still think that simple paperwork and proof that you paid for work that wasn’t done would be grounds for them to make it right. One way or another. Sorry that happened to you.
Neighbor had the same thing happen locally recently. I ended up confronting the dealership about it. They had zero intentions of fessing up until I posted a video with evidence and they suddenly had a change of heart.
@@andreichichak5242figures, ‘bout the change of owners. First response you get is did you sue. People are so *short sighted.
The question I have is what does the oil pan look like with this much sludge? Does Restore & Protect have enough cleaning properties to loosen the oil pan sludge.
Well, hard to say but I don’t have reason to doubt that it would eventually get it cleaned up. Not dropping the pan to find out though. It’s not leaking (shhh…)
Have u tried yamaha ring free?
So it works so well it clogs up your oil filter? Maybe change the oil a few times after 1000 miles to make sure all the gunk is cleaned out.
@@CharlesCurran-m9p did you watch the video? lol
That’s exactly what we’re discussing here.
For the record, the filter was far from “clogged” but definitely wouldn’t run it 5k with an engine that is known to have a heavy build up.
@ Yes I did which is why I commented.
The point is not to change the oil. The point is to change the filter so the oil keeps doing its job.
Wow that's amazing!
Before switching to vrp do an engine flush first.
Oil wasn't changed every 5k miles....
@@owenhill-vf7ko clearly the previous owner didn’t. Or they didn’t use proper spec oil.
That specific oil filter has terrible flow characteristics. Try a Purolator Boss next time. Equal filtering capability but with 3 times better flow characteristic.
Beggars and choosers around here sometimes. But I agree, I’m a purolator fan. This last one I put on was a standard Purolator and it looked considerably better.
@LeadStarDude What about the Purolator ONE? Do you know if it has the same flow characteristics as the BOSS?
If planning to change the filter every few thousand miles and go thru ten of them in short order, I would like to use one that's less expensive if I can!
Please share whatever you might know about the ONE instead of the BOSS
THANKS!
@jeffs3917
The Purolator One is pretty much the same as the Mobil One filter. Both offer decent filtering with a synthetic blend filter media, but both restrict oil flow compared to the Purolator Boss.
Purolator Boss has a fully synthetic filter media. It filters better and flows better.
If you change your oil every 3k miles the the Boss may not be necessary, and either of those other two will do fine. I do 5k mile oil changes with fully synthetic oil, so I use the Boss.
Regardless, the Boss still filters better, and both the cold flow and hot flow are way less restricted. So that's up to you. I like the idea of having both better filtering and better oil flow.
Do you have any data on the Fram Ultra Synthetic or the Fram Synthtic Endurance? They both have a full synthetic media as well, would you say either or those would have flow chacteristics comparable to the Purolator BOSS?
I'd love to hear your opinion on that 🙂
What I'm thinking to do is run VR&P for the next at least 4 oil changes, about 5k miles on each oil change, which I now anticipate needing at least 8-10 filters for. Before I realized I'd probably need so many filters, I was planning to use the Fram Synthetic Endurance. Once I did realize how many filters it might actually take, I then thought to use the Purolator ONE, which is less than half the cost.
If I'm gonna need 8-10 filters to do this job, and none will go over 5000 miles, some only 1000 or 2000 I'd really rather use $6 filters than $13 filters if I could!
That said, I really want to catch maximum crap (with minimum risk of returning some of the crap to the engine). And if that really calls for the better flow characteristics for maximum success, $60-70 difference is no big deal. I just don't want to waste 20-25k mile filters if I don't need to when I'll barely be going 2-5k miles on each one.
I think the best answer for that I just spelled out myself. But I'll still appreciate hearing your opinion about that too 👍
@ the Purolator one is a great choice.
so basically if your running a "cleaning oil" change it every 3k.but change filters every 1500k.by 3k its likely to go into bypass often, the half that crap gets washed off the filter media & then pumped thru your engine.defeating the whole purpose of a filter in the first place.putting a bypass valve past all the collected dirt & grime is the largest dumbass move in automotive design history.instead of filtering oil, the filter is merely a holding area for dirt untill bypassed right back to the bearings.BRILLIANT!!!
@@timkis64 actually it’s 100% necessary as if you didn’t have a bypass, the sump would simply be sucked dry as the oil couldn’t return to the pan due to the restriction of the clogged filter. Dirty oil is better than no oil 100% of the time. In a perfect world you don’t need such but it actually goes into bypass during cold starts etc pretty regularly.
@@owenhill-vf7ko lol ok. You wanna cookie now?
Bypass valves are needed, yes. But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter. It needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all.
Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media.
With that much junk all over the pleats, on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine.
How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that.
I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem.
As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue.
But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one.
@@DirtE30 I didn’t see Owen Hill’s response as it seems to have been deleted. Did you do that? Not that I care but I just find it interesting this back-and-forth sometime. I get banned from TH-cam all the time but that’s because of political objections. anyway hope you have a happy new year and your Carr continues to run as expected… planned obsolescence is going to get all of us in the end though because we know they could build a machine that could last our lifetime and we wouldn’t have to buy several cars. I’ve had 40 because I don’t wanna fuck with the repairs but now I’m old and a fixed income so I’m trying to get as much life as I can my dearly departed wife, mini countryman with 120,000 miles on it now I’ve got an oil leak that I’ve got to spend a bunch of money to get repaired… it would only cost like $15 to get the so I’m thinking about waiting until it gets warmer and having my buddy help me he said he would terms turn some wrenches with me. I just hope I don’t ruin everything… because that would indicate I’ve entered the twilight zone of Caddyshack,where, ”… you’ll get nothing, …and like it!!”.😂
@@DirtE30 Bypass valves are needed, yes.
But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter, at least when cleaning out the engine. The safety valve needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all.
Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media.
When cleaning (like with what VR&P does) with that much junk all over the pleats -- on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine.
How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that.
I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem.
As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue.
But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one. And if possible, for at least the first round, I would really rather NOT HAVE a bypass valve. Just to make sure that collected crap can't get back into the engine.
Ok..Everyone please read the SDS (safety data sheet) on Valvoline Restore Protect Oil..This stuff will disolve the carbon...but it will disolve all rubber seals in the process.."Miracle in a bottle?"..Go back to ATF or Diesel Fuel basic Oil Flush....
@@tonybernheim8365 what makes you say that? Specifically what about its chemistry makes you think this will be an issue? We’re not talking about a flu by night company that has no clue what they’re doing here… I’ve got a collective 15k miles on two different vehicles now and have had zero issues with leaks or seals. One of which has over 250k miles on it.
I’ll take the word of the motor oil geek over random internet stranger, thanks
Speak up
@@Daniel-qe8qe are you saying you couldn’t hear me clearly in the video? It’s clear on my end and no one else has mentioned this. Maybe it’s time for some ear pieces? Lol
@DirtE30 no, it's definitely YOU.
@ ok… sounds perfectly normal and easily understood from this end. Not sure what the issue is on your end. Anyone else?
@DirtE30 anyone else? You have roughly 400 subs and a handful of damn comments, it's not like you're "reaching out there" lol.