Everyone needs to take pride in the work they do. Do it right. Quality may take a little longer or increase material costs but the result is worth it. As a contractor you will be happier weith fewer call backs and as a trades person you can say with pride I did that.
I would like to see one of your builders how they go through the process of sealing these flangeless windows. The Siga Majrex looks so nicely installed with the 2 sided taped but what happens to it with all of the nail punctures when the 2 x 4 strapping is installed? thank you and hope you had a good holiday. thank you.
Yes because the Majrex is completely sealed around all the penetrations where drywall has to be cut around window openings, outlets, and at the floor line. Majrex stops vapor drive from the inside to the exterior in winter but allows drying to the inside if needed during the cooling season.
Steve, the timing of this video is perfect for a question I've been kicking around in my head. In regards to water vapor (not bulk or condensate water) is vapor alone sufficient to cause rot in wood materials? Is there a certain vapor or moisture content where you can say the materials are at risk for rot? Thanks!
The short answer is, if the vapor doesn't condense it won't be a problem. However... I've heard this is a potential weakness with structural insulated panels (SIPs). In the roof, if the seams are not air tight, the _continual flow_ of warm air, inside to outside during the heating season, allows condensation to form and collect along the outside layer of OSB, eventually destroying the edges. Traditionally SIP sealing has been done by drilling an access hole every couple of feet along the seam, then filling the gap between the EPS cores with spray foam. Unfortunately if the foam doesn't completely fill the gap you get leaks. Matt Risinger made a video a couple of years ago showing a different way of sealing the gap between SIP cores using caulk, which seems less likely to fail because you can see how much caulk was applied before putting the panels together. One could also tape the joints, or use a peel-and-stick film on the outside. I'm sure there are other instances where climate, season, and air leaks work together to keep parts of a building dripping wet for months at a time. _The key issue seems to be air leaks._
The siga ceiling detail is so cool
Another great quick video showing some important details that can get easily overlooked.
Everyone needs to take pride in the work they do. Do it right. Quality may take a little longer or increase material costs but the result is worth it.
As a contractor you will be happier weith fewer call backs and as a trades person you can say with pride I did that.
I would like to see one of your builders how they go through the process of sealing these flangeless windows. The Siga Majrex looks so nicely installed with the 2 sided taped but what happens to it with all of the nail punctures when the 2 x 4 strapping is installed? thank you and hope you had a good holiday. thank you.
When you nail through the Twinet, you’re sealed around the nail anyway.
Would you still use the majrex even if you were going to have drywall on the interior for the air barrier/vapor retarder?
Yes because the Majrex is completely sealed around all the penetrations where drywall has to be cut around window openings, outlets, and at the floor line. Majrex stops vapor drive from the inside to the exterior in winter but allows drying to the inside if needed during the cooling season.
Steve, the timing of this video is perfect for a question I've been kicking around in my head. In regards to water vapor (not bulk or condensate water) is vapor alone sufficient to cause rot in wood materials? Is there a certain vapor or moisture content where you can say the materials are at risk for rot? Thanks!
The short answer is, if the vapor doesn't condense it won't be a problem. However...
I've heard this is a potential weakness with structural insulated panels (SIPs). In the roof, if the seams are not air tight, the _continual flow_ of warm air, inside to outside during the heating season, allows condensation to form and collect along the outside layer of OSB, eventually destroying the edges. Traditionally SIP sealing has been done by drilling an access hole every couple of feet along the seam, then filling the gap between the EPS cores with spray foam. Unfortunately if the foam doesn't completely fill the gap you get leaks. Matt Risinger made a video a couple of years ago showing a different way of sealing the gap between SIP cores using caulk, which seems less likely to fail because you can see how much caulk was applied before putting the panels together. One could also tape the joints, or use a peel-and-stick film on the outside.
I'm sure there are other instances where climate, season, and air leaks work together to keep parts of a building dripping wet for months at a time. _The key issue seems to be air leaks._
@@ScottyDMcomyes and I’ve found spray foam to be a good expanding insulation but not a good air seal.