UPDATE February 2023: This particular video is a few years old and cameras, lights, and software have changed since then, so I have up to date information in two sources that can help with this process. The first is my online course at prointeriors.nathancool.com and the other is my books on real estate photography, in particular the introduction to using this technique at amzn.to/3wTZrNZ You can find the entire series at amzn.to/3YmXAgn
Man, i missed your voice! i used to listen to these videos while driving cross-country and it felt like listening to an audio book. Thanks Nathan, im a photographer that also sells real estate and you can imagine, i already use your technique to great succes! THANKS MAN!
The majority of the homes I shoot are average to small size houses. A couple of weeks ago I shot a house that was similar in size and scope to this one. It was a challenge to light it correctly but, though you had not produced this video yet, I took the techniques I have learned from your books and your videos and met the challenge. Part of being able to overcome the challenge was understanding the problems I have had in the past during post editing and having learned techniques from you to solve those issues. I was able to anticipate them and work with post production in mind. Again, thank you.
I don't normally do real estate photography, but a friend who is a developer is bringing me in on a major project. You have saved me! I will be purchasing your books too.
Sir much respect to you. I am a wedding and quinceañera events andportraits photographer and just learning this new aproach to photogrpahy has me so hooked. I aplaud your dedication to create this videos because i know how mch work it takes to produce them and teach. You are shinning man. thank you.
Hi Nathan, thank you fot you tutorials, I've been shooting for HDR for one year, and I've lost a lot of a time fighting to find an accetable white balance, with different results innthe same room with different shots. Now I'm going to try a new approach following your technique. I've already bought two of your books, and I'm going to buy another one. I hope to find some examples to pull out windows with curtains
Great tutorial Nathan. Thank you. Having read the books really helps with understanding what you are talking about. So if you haven't read his books, I highly recommend you do. Well worth the investment.
Purchased your Real Estate Interiors eBook on Amazon. Just want to say that the book is a great, more thorough, easier to access, companion to your TH-cam channel. Also, being in ebook format I am able to access it anywhere, as a quick reference. Thanks! On to advanced editing now.
Nathan, good tutorials, I am a seasoned real estate photographer and have been using these techniques for years now. I am glad you are sharing them with the newcomers. I do have a question : how do get to shoot the flash into the windows and not getting any type of reflection whatsoever, a lot of times I have to shoot the flash a few times because I always get some reflections, EVEN at an angle, I mean, I really have tried sometimes like 4 or 5 different positions and always get reflection. . Has that happened to you?. I usually wind up shooting a few shots from different angles and even straight up in order to avoid any kind of reflection, but a lot of times, cannot avoid them. Share with us how have you been able to overcome this. Keep up the good videos.
Hi Alfio, it sounds like you're using too much flash power, and from too far of a distance. I have another video specifically on window pulls that might help at th-cam.com/video/1Xmwr92n3GA/w-d-xo.html
I have two questions. Firstly (rhetorical), how on earth could anyone give a thumbs down for this video? Secondly, the examples of window pulls are mostly plain windows with no curtains (drapes). I find that the shadows they cast onto the window frame cause issues. We also have bars on the windows here in South Africa causing the same issue. Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I could be doing to overcome this? Would be great if you could incorporate this into a tutorial someday. Thanks!
Thanks David :) Funny thing, TH-cam is actually considering removing the down-vote buttons since they are finding that some people will (for numerous reasons) just down-vote a video before even watching it. Lots of recent articles on that, like this one www.digitaltrends.com/computing/youtube-could-disable-downvotes/ On the second issue: I shoot window pulls on all kinds of windows with all kinds of treatments (curtains, blinds, and bars). It could be that you are possibly flashing the windows too hard, causing too much shadow. I find that curtains will leave "some" reflection in the glass, but that a little is acceptable. I'd have to see some examples though...just a thought off the top of my head. I'll think about maybe some additional window pull tutorials, perhaps one that shows a few different window treatment examples and issues one might encounter with each. Thanks again David!
Nathan, I shoot quite a bit of Luxury and as much as I follow and watch your videos, it was not until I watched this video that I have begun to get some of my issues addressed that I have with shooting larger homes. Nice to hear I am not going crazy. Will there be more videos about larger homes and colored walls and dark rooms? Some of these larger homes have the dark wood offices/library. I just purchased your advanced book but have only just started reading it. I am not a reader so this will be a challenge. Keep up the good work. Many thanks, Houston Brown Photography
Thanks for the lesson. If use 2 strobes together it will give different color tint ? What strobes will be suitable each other better ad200pro to ad600 or ad300 to ad600 or godox speedlights that you use? I am looking for ad600pro + ad300pro or ad600pro + ad200pro combo
Hi Nathan, great set of images well done. In regards to the window pull, why do a dedicated direct flash window pull when in this case you've already pulled the window with the bounced flashed image? I'm guessing it's because you want to brush in ambient all around the window frames and this would brighten the windows too much for your liking? My flashed image and window pull are the same shot, then I just do a saftey, I don't mind a bright window though.
If you go back and watch closely to the exposure settings I annotated through the video, you'll see that the ISO and shutter speed changes from the flash shot to the window pull shots. While you may not mind a bright window, agents selling multi-million-dollar homes like this expect to see the view that sets that multi-million-dollar price ;) Clear views to the outside of view homes like this are mandatory, which I talk about during the take-home points portion of this tutorial at the end.
Hi Nathan, thanks for all the great tip which really helpful! Recently I got a high-end job which shooting 5k sqt High-end House and I really don't know how to charge and this is really my move on the level market, and they asked for 20 photos at least. And I don't want to pull down the market price. Please advise, thanks.
Hi Nathan, do you usually ask the client to send you a sort of images to see in advance to what you are working for, or do you bring all your gears in you car and deal with any unexpected surprise when you are there? Thank you for putting all this together. I got your book collection! I love it and I have learned so much from it.
Hello Nathan, thank you very much for your interesting TH-cam videos on real estate photography. I'm subscribed to your TH-cam channel and have watched and "Liked"👍🏽 the videos that you've produced. QUESTION: Working with a PC that has Adobe Photoshop CS5 and no Adobe Lightroom program am I able to open, Mask and work with my real estate photo images/ layers using only Photoshop?? If so, at this time I'm unable to figure out how to accomplish it.
Hi Bob, I'd recommend upgrading to LR Classic CC and PS CC (Adobe's Photography plan), it's super cheap and you will always have the latest versions: www.adobe.com/creativecloud/photography/compare-plans.html
I have learned so much from your videos, but still do not understood the "Layer/ "Flatten Image" mode then Save (15:40) when using the Flash/Ambient Blend. What does this set do?
Thanks Manny. I'm not sure if you have books #1 and #2 yet, but they would help in this regard. The idea is mostly space saving...you could save them as layer TIFFs, or PSDs, but you'd need a lot more storage. Here's a link to my REP series, if you want to check it out: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Hi Travis, it's not the "what", it's the "why". Brands don't matter, but so many other factors do. To help make a decision on any gear for REP, I break it down in my series, in particular I think interiors would help, here's a link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Godox and Flashpoint are the same thing. I have more on lighting equivalents also in my lighting guide, here's a link if you want to check that out: amzn.to/36qhwpT
For three reasons: 1. Most of the time you don't need a repair layer. Notice I didn't use a repair layer on any of the other windows (the other two window pull shots). Most times you won't need a repair layer, so a single darken-mode window pull will do the trick, which is much, much faster than trying to cut-in a window. 2. Most importantly, is that the darken-mode window pull gets the window entirely and exactly cut-in to the frame of the window. Cutting in the repair layer (or painting within a polygon like I show on window #2), does not reach to the window's edge...the darken-mode window pull will take care of that, and far more accurately. There is no way to cut that in alone accurately enough, so the darken-mode window pull does the hard part, and repair layer, when needed, can fill in (or just repair) the rest (or portions as needed). 3. Many windows won't have a clear view and will be obstructed by objects; i.e. the bottle in window #2, blinds, plants, etc. Doing a darken-mode window pull is thus imperative as a repair layer cannot be cut in efficiently or effectively enough.
Hi Hunter, presets are included in my various books, which you can browse at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM/?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Hi Craig, I'd have to see what you're doing, but this tutorial may help th-cam.com/video/VmVsL488Cy0/w-d-xo.html The next step, if that doesn't help, would require a remote coaching session with me...you can email me at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com for more on that.
UPDATE February 2023: This particular video is a few years old and cameras, lights, and software have changed since then, so I have up to date information in two sources that can help with this process. The first is my online course at prointeriors.nathancool.com and the other is my books on real estate photography, in particular the introduction to using this technique at amzn.to/3wTZrNZ You can find the entire series at amzn.to/3YmXAgn
You're a legend Nathan! Thank you so much for your effort in teaching other photographers. Looking foward to seeing how my photography improves!
I love this guy!! He is like Mr. Rodgers of Photography! Awesome.
Man, i missed your voice! i used to listen to these videos while driving cross-country and it felt like listening to an audio book. Thanks Nathan, im a photographer that also sells real estate and you can imagine, i already use your technique to great succes! THANKS MAN!
The majority of the homes I shoot are average to small size houses. A couple of weeks ago I shot a house that was similar in size and scope to this one. It was a challenge to light it correctly but, though you had not produced this video yet, I took the techniques I have learned from your books and your videos and met the challenge. Part of being able to overcome the challenge was understanding the problems I have had in the past during post editing and having learned techniques from you to solve those issues. I was able to anticipate them and work with post production in mind. Again, thank you.
I don't normally do real estate photography, but a friend who is a developer is bringing me in on a major project. You have saved me! I will be purchasing your books too.
At 12:20, I got that Bob Ross vibe from you, Mr. Cool. Thank you for the tutorials and examples for us real estate photographers to learn from you!
RE photography is an art form, and totally unrecognized outside of us RE nerds. this video is really great!
Sir much respect to you. I am a wedding and quinceañera events andportraits photographer and just learning this new aproach to photogrpahy has me so hooked. I aplaud your dedication to create this videos because i know how mch work it takes to produce them and teach. You are shinning man. thank you.
Hi Nathan, thank you fot you tutorials, I've been shooting for HDR for one year, and I've lost a lot of a time fighting to find an accetable white balance, with different results innthe same room with different shots. Now I'm going to try a new approach following your technique. I've already bought two of your books, and I'm going to buy another one. I hope to find some examples to pull out windows with curtains
Mr Nathan, You are super great. I learn a lot of tricks on real estate photography. THX.
Great tutorial Nathan. Thank you. Having read the books really helps with understanding what you are talking about. So if you haven't read his books, I highly recommend you do. Well worth the investment.
Nice work Nathan, great example of a complex shoot.
I bet the client was extremely happy, top work Nathan, thanks for sharing it and educating me too! Cheers.
I like your videos before I even watch them. Every single one is a great teaching experience.
not the first time my butts been saved by nate. Thank you for the best info on youtube!
Purchased your Real Estate Interiors eBook on Amazon. Just want to say that the book is a great, more thorough, easier to access, companion to your TH-cam channel. Also, being in ebook format I am able to access it anywhere, as a quick reference. Thanks! On to advanced editing now.
You are awesome Nathan I appreciate these tutorials, also fun fact getting some Bob Ross vibes ha ha way to go!
Perfect!
I like how you explain even the little details
Thank you so much
You have extremely useful information in this video. Excellent video!
Nathan, good tutorials, I am a seasoned real estate photographer and have been using these techniques for years now. I am glad you are sharing them with the newcomers. I do have a question : how do get to shoot the flash into the windows and not getting any type of reflection whatsoever, a lot of times I have to shoot the flash a few times because I always get some reflections, EVEN at an angle, I mean, I really have tried sometimes like 4 or 5 different positions and always get reflection. . Has that happened to you?. I usually wind up shooting a few shots from different angles and even straight up in order to avoid any kind of reflection, but a lot of times, cannot avoid them. Share with us how have you been able to overcome this. Keep up the good videos.
Hi Alfio, it sounds like you're using too much flash power, and from too far of a distance. I have another video specifically on window pulls that might help at th-cam.com/video/1Xmwr92n3GA/w-d-xo.html
This tutorial is very useful ! Thank you so much!
I have two questions. Firstly (rhetorical), how on earth could anyone give a thumbs down for this video? Secondly, the examples of window pulls are mostly plain windows with no curtains (drapes). I find that the shadows they cast onto the window frame cause issues. We also have bars on the windows here in South Africa causing the same issue. Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I could be doing to overcome this? Would be great if you could incorporate this into a tutorial someday. Thanks!
Thanks David :) Funny thing, TH-cam is actually considering removing the down-vote buttons since they are finding that some people will (for numerous reasons) just down-vote a video before even watching it. Lots of recent articles on that, like this one www.digitaltrends.com/computing/youtube-could-disable-downvotes/ On the second issue: I shoot window pulls on all kinds of windows with all kinds of treatments (curtains, blinds, and bars). It could be that you are possibly flashing the windows too hard, causing too much shadow. I find that curtains will leave "some" reflection in the glass, but that a little is acceptable. I'd have to see some examples though...just a thought off the top of my head. I'll think about maybe some additional window pull tutorials, perhaps one that shows a few different window treatment examples and issues one might encounter with each. Thanks again David!
Nathan, I shoot quite a bit of Luxury and as much as I follow and watch your videos, it was not until I watched this video that I have begun to get some of my issues addressed that I have with shooting larger homes. Nice to hear I am not going crazy. Will there be more videos about larger homes and colored walls and dark rooms? Some of these larger homes have the dark wood offices/library. I just purchased your advanced book but have only just started reading it. I am not a reader so this will be a challenge.
Keep up the good work.
Many thanks,
Houston Brown Photography
Great tips!!! Awesome as always!
You are awesome my friend! How many hours did this job take?
Thanks for the lesson. If use 2 strobes together it will give different color tint ? What strobes will be suitable each other better ad200pro to ad600 or ad300 to ad600 or godox speedlights that you use? I am looking for ad600pro + ad300pro or ad600pro + ad200pro combo
Brilliant!
Hi Nathan, great set of images well done. In regards to the window pull, why do a dedicated direct flash window pull when in this case you've already pulled the window with the bounced flashed image? I'm guessing it's because you want to brush in ambient all around the window frames and this would brighten the windows too much for your liking? My flashed image and window pull are the same shot, then I just do a saftey, I don't mind a bright window though.
If you go back and watch closely to the exposure settings I annotated through the video, you'll see that the ISO and shutter speed changes from the flash shot to the window pull shots. While you may not mind a bright window, agents selling multi-million-dollar homes like this expect to see the view that sets that multi-million-dollar price ;) Clear views to the outside of view homes like this are mandatory, which I talk about during the take-home points portion of this tutorial at the end.
Fantastic tutorial! Question, are all of your flambient shots using auto white balance?
Thanks! I have more info on that in my e-book on interiors, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3sEtE0J
Hey Nathan, nice work. What are you using for a remote? Camranger or just Nikon remote? Thanks!
Hi Nathan, thanks for all the great tip which really helpful! Recently I got a high-end job which shooting 5k sqt High-end House and I really don't know how to charge and this is really my move on the level market, and they asked for 20 photos at least. And I don't want to pull down the market price. Please advise, thanks.
Hi Billy, it depends on what work you'll be doing, but I talk about that specifically in my business techniques e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B07FB47JRT
Hi Nathan, do you usually ask the client to send you a sort of images to see in advance to what you are working for, or do you bring all your gears in you car and deal with any unexpected surprise when you are there? Thank you for putting all this together. I got your book collection! I love it and I have learned so much from it.
Thank you! No, I don't see any images in advance.
Excellent as usual.
Hello Nathan, thank you very much for your interesting TH-cam videos on real estate photography. I'm subscribed to your TH-cam channel and have watched and "Liked"👍🏽 the videos that you've produced.
QUESTION:
Working with a PC that has Adobe Photoshop CS5 and no Adobe Lightroom program am I able to open, Mask and work with my real estate photo images/ layers using only Photoshop??
If so, at this time I'm unable to figure out how to accomplish it.
Hi Bob, I'd recommend upgrading to LR Classic CC and PS CC (Adobe's Photography plan), it's super cheap and you will always have the latest versions: www.adobe.com/creativecloud/photography/compare-plans.html
I have learned so much from your videos, but still do not understood the "Layer/ "Flatten Image" mode then Save (15:40) when using the Flash/Ambient Blend. What does this set do?
Thanks Manny. I'm not sure if you have books #1 and #2 yet, but they would help in this regard. The idea is mostly space saving...you could save them as layer TIFFs, or PSDs, but you'd need a lot more storage. Here's a link to my REP series, if you want to check it out: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Very good thanks
Nathan, any opinion on utilizing Fujifilm X-T3 with 8-16mm f/2.8 or 10-24mm f/4 for real estate photography?
Hi Travis, it's not the "what", it's the "why". Brands don't matter, but so many other factors do. To help make a decision on any gear for REP, I break it down in my series, in particular I think interiors would help, here's a link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
I've been watching all your videos, and this one..... uau! Just keep doind that. See ya!
thank you
What is the explorer 600? Is that any different from the Godox AD600?
Godox and Flashpoint are the same thing. I have more on lighting equivalents also in my lighting guide, here's a link if you want to check that out: amzn.to/36qhwpT
What speed light do you recommend? Between flashpoint and YN which is the best speed light for interior real estate? I already have a monolight
Light is light :) FP and YN are both good. It depends also on the rest of your triggering setup.
Does Nathan Cool use a polarizer?
Nathan does not :) I will say though that we use one on the drone since we shoot a lot of water properties with it.
@@NathanCoolPhoto thankyou for replying!!
A question: if you're going to manually select the window for your repair layer anyway, why bother with the window pull layer?
For three reasons:
1. Most of the time you don't need a repair layer. Notice I didn't use a repair layer on any of the other windows (the other two window pull shots). Most times you won't need a repair layer, so a single darken-mode window pull will do the trick, which is much, much faster than trying to cut-in a window.
2. Most importantly, is that the darken-mode window pull gets the window entirely and exactly cut-in to the frame of the window. Cutting in the repair layer (or painting within a polygon like I show on window #2), does not reach to the window's edge...the darken-mode window pull will take care of that, and far more accurately. There is no way to cut that in alone accurately enough, so the darken-mode window pull does the hard part, and repair layer, when needed, can fill in (or just repair) the rest (or portions as needed).
3. Many windows won't have a clear view and will be obstructed by objects; i.e. the bottle in window #2, blinds, plants, etc. Doing a darken-mode window pull is thus imperative as a repair layer cannot be cut in efficiently or effectively enough.
@@NathanCoolPhoto That makes sense. Thanks!
The Best!
Boom! Piece of cake... :-D
The Bob Ross of Photoshop :P
Just coming here to say the same thing. He makes me feel relaxed and like I can conquer this no problem! :)
Do you sell presets?
Hi Hunter, presets are included in my various books, which you can browse at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM/?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Why do my Flambient Photos look muddy?
Hi Craig, I'd have to see what you're doing, but this tutorial may help th-cam.com/video/VmVsL488Cy0/w-d-xo.html The next step, if that doesn't help, would require a remote coaching session with me...you can email me at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com for more on that.