The floatant should be applied in a fine coat to waterproof the feathers and keep them from soaking up water and sinking. The floatant is not meant to be a supporting agent. Get a bit on your finger and thumb and stroke it on the fly hackles for proper use. Thanks for watching!
Thank you Great video . Just a question I mixed this up and it dry very hard do you think it heavy on wax and if you think it could be saved or start over ?
Thank you for sharing! I have been gradually working on getting into fly fishing for a while adter an auto accident and was curious about making floatant at home. I'll definitely be giving this a whirl!
Thank you so much. I have not been able to find dry fly float at my local fly stores for a few months they're all sold out and I knew it had to be a simple product. Thank you thank you thank you
I really liked this video. I tried to make it sufficiently soft for the little squeeze bottle, but my efforts were unsuccessful. It was still cooled down hard. However, rubbing my finger on the top of it gave enough of the product to keep my fly buoyant. Thank you again for posting it!
Professor, fantástico e muito bom, os floatant são caros aqui no Brasil, por se tratar de marcas importadas, agradeço pela ótima dica, forte abraço, Gratidão!!!!
Thank you so much! I always prefer to make this kind of thing for myself. Your walk-through demonstration was very clear and understandable. Well done Sir!👍
I just use the same exact stuff that I make for my cutting board oil. Food grade mineral oil and beeswax. But this is a good video and excellent advice. Thank you
If you get a bit of floatant between your finger and thumb and rub it around, it liquefies. Then rub the fly and hackles to coat the hackles. If the hackles are sticking together, you are using too much.
Hello . nice video!! My question is this .. Is this technique used in the same application as the silicone floatant? . and if the fly finally takes on water can you re apply like powder? Thanks!
Vaseline is lighter than water and helps the fly float. I am not sure about the specific gravity of silicone grease, or how well it will blend with the other ingredients. Also, parafin, mineral oil, and Vaseline are relatively hypoallergenic. Not sure about SG.
I used the process for the liquid dropper bottle and at room temperature it’s almost like crisco cooking lard and won’t squeeze out. Do I eliminate wax altogether, cut back one tablespoon of wax and double mineral oil, or eliminate wax altogether?
The wax is what makes the floatant get solid enough to stay in a small tub. Cut back on the wax to make it thinner for a squeeze bottle. The mineral oil and Vaseline are what makes the fly resist soaking up water. If you put the mix in a squeeze bottle and it will not come out in cooler weather, carry the bottle in a shirt pocket to keep it soft.
good afternoon. I’m going to use the squeeze bottle. In the video I think you say double the Vaseline. In the comments you mention adding more oil. Can you clarify. Thank you!
The colder the temperature, the harder it gets. All you need to do to use it is rub your finger on the surface to get a little on your finger tip, then rub it onto your fly between your thumb and finger. If it is too soft, it will run in hot temperatures.
Hi Chris, great video but I'm struggling to get the end product just the way I would like. Which would be the best ingredient to add more of to make it softer, oil or vaseline or both.?
If you are trying to put it in a squeeze bottle, add more oil. If using a little tub, add more Vaseline. Oil in the tub and it will run out, Vaseline in a squeeze bottle doesn't let it come out very easy. So the short answer for your question is Vaseline. Also, if it is not the way you like it, you can re-melt it and add a touch of something and re-cool it.
Hi Chris, thank you for the helpful video! Is the solution supposed to dry up afterwards, or remain a liquid? Mine dried up (hardened), and I'm not sure if that's normal.
Yes, it will cool down and get firm. To use it, the warmth of a thumb or finger will warm the surface enough to get a slight film on your finger. Just stroke that on the fly and you are good to go. The floatant coats and waterproofs the fly, and will keep it from absorbing water and sinking. Thanks for watching!
I've found if the weathers really warm the floatant will run almost like water, but the colder it gets the thicker it gets, so if its cooler I keep mine in my hip pocket and not on my vest, perfect.
I grabbed mine from Wal-Mart but you should be able to pick them up at any store that has the travel-size section. I think my little containers were 2 for 0.99 or 0.79. The recipe filled up 4 of them with leftovers in the tuna fish can I used. Pretty sure I will be dead three times before I use it all. Good luck!
Actually a pretty neat reason. Waxes and other hydrocarbons don't heat up in the microwave because the microwaves specifically heat up water molecules, which then heat everything else up
The powder is silica and sucks the water off of the fly. Don't breathe it. The pastes and gels coat the hackles and keep them from reabsorbing more water.
Mineral oil and Vaseline are petroleum distilates. They are hydrocarbons, meaning they are comprised of hydrogen and carbon. They are pollutants. Naturally occurring fats found in nuts and plants, like coconut oil, shea butter, etc., are triglycerides. Triglycerides are esters of Coconut oil is primarily composed of triglycerides, which are esters of fatty acids and glycerol. Triglycerides are organic compounds containing carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, but they are not considered hydrocarbons because they also contain oxygen atoms. Hydrocarbons, on the other hand, consist only of carbon and hydrogen atoms. Triglycerides are necessary for life and fish can ingest them safely. If you make your own floatant use a triglyceride like cocoa butter, coconut oil, shea butter, etc. You can mix it with beeswax until you get the consistency you prefer.
Nice concept - I'd love someone to find a method that's a bit more environmentally friendly. Otherwise, I'll stick to some of the commercial products that appear to be a bit more safe for the water.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 I agree with the "most" comment. However, there are a few products out there that at least claim to be environmentally friendly. Then again, I'm starting to shy away from lead too and really limit touching trout while releasing them. I figure if I am going to spend a large portion of my life on a trout stream, I'd better start becoming a bit of a river steward. SO I guess the question comes down to convenience vs safer for the river... I'd still love to see if you could find a formula that accomplishes both.
The Happy Hour Hound he was industrious enough to figure out how to make something himself that manufacturers charge a premium for...$10-$12 an ounce. Sometimes such things are to save money, other times just for the fun of it. Regardless, if I’m ever so pompous that I would judge or put someone down for that, I definitely need to reassess some things in life, including my attitude.
This was what I was looking for. It would be cool to see a demonstration of a fly floating after it's applied. Thanks!
The floatant should be applied in a fine coat to waterproof the feathers and keep them from soaking up water and sinking. The floatant is not meant to be a supporting agent. Get a bit on your finger and thumb and stroke it on the fly hackles for proper use. Thanks for watching!
I do not believe that this agent is good for CDC flies. It will only glue the fine fibres unnecessarily. With guarantee!
I’m really impressed, simple, to the point. You kept it concise! Thank you! I will subscribe.
Thanks for the sub!
This is great! My dad used to make his own fly floatant using a very similar recipe, but he's not around to ask anymore, so this was a wonderful find!
Very cool!
Thanks very much. Will be giving this a go in the near future - excellent Christmas present idea for my 3 sons and I ( no daughters 😂).
Thank you Great video . Just a question I mixed this up and it dry very hard do you think it heavy on wax and if you think it could be saved or start over ?
Thank you for sharing!
I have been gradually working on getting into fly fishing for a while adter an auto accident and was curious about making floatant at home.
I'll definitely be giving this a whirl!
Good stuff as always, Chris. Thinking of experimenting w/this as a waterproofing for natural feather fletching on arrows. Thanks.
I don't think it will work for fletches. I think it would make them too stiff and cause wobble problems as they cross the arrow rest.
Thank you so much. I have not been able to find dry fly float at my local fly stores for a few months they're all sold out and I knew it had to be a simple product. Thank you thank you thank you
You are so welcome!
I really liked this video. I tried to make it sufficiently soft for the little squeeze bottle, but my efforts were unsuccessful. It was still cooled down hard. However, rubbing my finger on the top of it gave enough of the product to keep my fly buoyant. Thank you again for posting it!
Cutting back on the wax by a little keeps it creamier for use in a squeeze bottle.
Professor, fantástico e muito bom, os floatant são caros aqui no Brasil, por se tratar de marcas importadas, agradeço pela ótima dica, forte abraço, Gratidão!!!!
Good video. Concise, well presented and no rubbish. Thanks for the info 🇬🇧!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you. Much appreciated.
You're welcome!
Very clear and concise demonstration, thanks for sharing.
You are welcome!
As Nacho Libre would say, "This tutorial on how to make dry fly floatant is thee best!!"
Thank you!
Thank you so much! I always prefer to make this kind of thing for myself. Your walk-through demonstration was very clear and understandable. Well done Sir!👍
Glad it was helpful!
I just use the same exact stuff that I make for my cutting board oil. Food grade mineral oil and beeswax.
But this is a good video and excellent advice. Thank you
welcome!
Sir can we use liquid paraffin+mineral oil+Vaseline?
Great video thanks for covering everything in detail and plenty of safety info. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you for the video! 🙏
Thanks you for your good info. Is there any substitution for Mineral Oil? Can silicon oid works?
Mineral oil is pure and is less dense that water so it stays on top of the surface. No sub that I know of.
thanks for sharing this video, does the hackle mat together after applying it?
If you get a bit of floatant between your finger and thumb and rub it around, it liquefies. Then rub the fly and hackles to coat the hackles. If the hackles are sticking together, you are using too much.
Hello . nice video!! My question is this .. Is this technique used in the same application as the silicone floatant? . and if the fly finally takes on water can you re apply like powder? Thanks!
A little between your thumb and finger and rub it into the fly materials. Yes it can be reapplied.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 awesome i will give that a try Chris! Thanks for the reply 👍
😍 i just paid £5 for floatant it will be the last time 👍🏻
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Excellent presentation
Glad you liked it
Hi Chris brill video thanks do you know how to make it in Liquid form
Hey Chris, I can’t get the gel finishing. Do I need to put more Vaseline ? I tried but when it cools I get always the paste. Thanks a. Lot .
I added more mineral oil until I got the consistency I liked
Great tip!
Glad you think so!
awesome video chris thanks for the information !!
Any time!
Cheers fella. Great idea.
Gracias por el video y ayuda desde Ecuador
Thank you!
Great job breaking down the procedure.
Thanks!
Can I substitute the paraffin wax for organic beeswax pellets? Or dose it have to be paraffin wax ?
Bee's wax is sticky and will gum up the flies. It needs to be paraffin.
Could the vaseline be replaced by silicone grease?
Vaseline is lighter than water and helps the fly float. I am not sure about the specific gravity of silicone grease, or how well it will blend with the other ingredients. Also, parafin, mineral oil, and Vaseline are relatively hypoallergenic. Not sure about SG.
I used the process for the liquid dropper bottle and at room temperature it’s almost like crisco cooking lard and won’t squeeze out. Do I eliminate wax altogether, cut back one tablespoon of wax and double mineral oil, or eliminate wax altogether?
The wax is what makes the floatant get solid enough to stay in a small tub. Cut back on the wax to make it thinner for a squeeze bottle. The mineral oil and Vaseline are what makes the fly resist soaking up water. If you put the mix in a squeeze bottle and it will not come out in cooler weather, carry the bottle in a shirt pocket to keep it soft.
Would hairspray not work ?
So as long as the ratio stays 2 parts paraffin, 1 part Vaseline, and 1 part mineral oil, I should be able to scale it up or down right?
Yes. When I was making it at a major fly company, my mix used 5 gallons of mineral oil in a batch.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 ok cool, i fish by myself most times so I was thinking about scaling it down and making it as needed
Is it working for CDC feathers? Dont make it seal?
Just dry CDC feathers on a piece of fabric (Your shirt) and they will be ready. Any floatant on CDC will make it stick together and be worthless.
Chris,
Have you ever used bees wax in lieu of paraffin? I have a plethora of bees wax and no paraffin.
Bees wax is sticky, as you know, and will stick the hackle fibers together. On the bright side, bees wax does make great dubbing wax.
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
thanks a lot from montreal
You are welcome!
Brilliant, will try soon
Hope you enjoy
good afternoon. I’m going to use the squeeze bottle. In the video I think you say double the Vaseline. In the comments you mention adding more oil. Can you clarify. Thank you!
is this mineral oil is VG? (vegetable oil), stuff like some guys using for their ecigarettes ?
Vegetable oil will go rancid after time. Mineral oil is different.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 ok thanks
Awesome. Thx for the tip
Happy to help!
Very good video. Thx bro!
Glad you liked it!
How hard does it has to be? I did it and it is a little bit hard, is that normal? Thanks!
The colder the temperature, the harder it gets. All you need to do to use it is rub your finger on the surface to get a little on your finger tip, then rub it onto your fly between your thumb and finger. If it is too soft, it will run in hot temperatures.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 Thank you very much!
Nice wee video👍
Thanks 👍
Hi Chris, great video but I'm struggling to get the end product just the way I would like. Which would be the best ingredient to add more of to make it softer, oil or vaseline or both.?
If you are trying to put it in a squeeze bottle, add more oil. If using a little tub, add more Vaseline. Oil in the tub and it will run out, Vaseline in a squeeze bottle doesn't let it come out very easy. So the short answer for your question is Vaseline. Also, if it is not the way you like it, you can re-melt it and add a touch of something and re-cool it.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 Thanks for your quick reply Chris I'll try that. All the best from Bonny Scotland.
I added more mineral oil until I got the right viscosity and that seemed to do the trick.
Hi Chris, thank you for the helpful video! Is the solution supposed to dry up afterwards, or remain a liquid? Mine dried up (hardened), and I'm not sure if that's normal.
Yes, it will cool down and get firm. To use it, the warmth of a thumb or finger will warm the surface enough to get a slight film on your finger. Just stroke that on the fly and you are good to go. The floatant coats and waterproofs the fly, and will keep it from absorbing water and sinking. Thanks for watching!
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 Thank you!
I've found if the weathers really warm the floatant will run almost like water, but the colder it gets the thicker it gets, so if its cooler I keep mine in my hip pocket and not on my vest, perfect.
Where did you get your paste containers and what size?
I grabbed mine from Wal-Mart but you should be able to pick them up at any store that has the travel-size section. I think my little containers were 2 for 0.99 or 0.79. The recipe filled up 4 of them with leftovers in the tuna fish can I used. Pretty sure I will be dead three times before I use it all. Good luck!
Ok thanks,
is basic vaseline fine nothing else, just vaseline?
Vaseline alone will just mat feather fibers together.
Once again, thanks Chris. Like the content of your channel.
I appreciate that!
Brilliant! :-)
Glad you liked it!
Could you use soy wax instead of Paraffin?
I do not know.
Wat about useing bee wax would that do
Put a little junk roughly the size of your fly on water surface and if it floats i bet it'll work but might as well try
Bee's wax it sticky and will make hackle stick together.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 maybe if you dissolve it like you would wax?
Instead of paraffin wax use bees wax . Now you got a guud boot water proofer.
why not use a microwave as a heat source ?
Actually a pretty neat reason. Waxes and other hydrocarbons don't heat up in the microwave because the microwaves specifically heat up water molecules, which then heat everything else up
I've only used the powder type so far.
The powder is silica and sucks the water off of the fly. Don't breathe it. The pastes and gels coat the hackles and keep them from reabsorbing more water.
Bushcrafters know this as an emergency fire starter.
Mineral oil and Vaseline are petroleum distilates. They are hydrocarbons, meaning they are comprised of hydrogen and carbon. They are pollutants. Naturally occurring fats found in nuts and plants, like coconut oil, shea butter, etc., are triglycerides. Triglycerides are esters of Coconut oil is primarily composed of triglycerides, which are esters of fatty acids and glycerol. Triglycerides are organic compounds containing carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, but they are not considered hydrocarbons because they also contain oxygen atoms. Hydrocarbons, on the other hand, consist only of carbon and hydrogen atoms. Triglycerides are necessary for life and fish can ingest them safely. If you make your own floatant use a triglyceride like cocoa butter, coconut oil, shea butter, etc. You can mix it with beeswax until you get the consistency you prefer.
Nice concept - I'd love someone to find a method that's a bit more environmentally friendly. Otherwise, I'll stick to some of the commercial products that appear to be a bit more safe for the water.
This is the formula used in most "Commercial" products.
@@chrismihulka-nwfishingstuf3852 I agree with the "most" comment. However, there are a few products out there that at least claim to be environmentally friendly. Then again, I'm starting to shy away from lead too and really limit touching trout while releasing them. I figure if I am going to spend a large portion of my life on a trout stream, I'd better start becoming a bit of a river steward. SO I guess the question comes down to convenience vs safer for the river... I'd still love to see if you could find a formula that accomplishes both.
if im ever so broke I need to make my own Floatant i probably need to reassess some things in life.
The Happy Hour Hound he was industrious enough to figure out how to make something himself that manufacturers charge a premium for...$10-$12 an ounce. Sometimes such things are to save money, other times just for the fun of it. Regardless, if I’m ever so pompous that I would judge or put someone down for that, I definitely need to reassess some things in life, including my attitude.
Ty Woodruff damn Ty. Good job man you posted on the internet. Good job buddy
Where I live you can't buy dry fly dressing for a reasonable price, or you can't buy it at all. This video is pure gold for me.
If this guy is married I pity his poor wife.
Thank you, much appreciated.
You're welcome!
Thank you!
Welcome!