ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- 酸辣开胃的亚参叻沙、浓郁可口的咖喱面、以及香喷喷的炒粿条里不能缺少的灵魂材料之一--血蚶。其肉嫩鲜美、血液鲜红，无论是简单地汆烫即起，或是辣炒料理都行。然而，养殖血蚶却是一门极具风险，和仰赖自然生态环境的行业。在这座位于雪兰莪州西部的百年华人渔村，巴西不南邦（Pasir Penambang），在90年代以养殖血蚶闻名，同时也也因盛产新鲜美味的海鲜及海产而有着海鲜天堂之称。
巴西不南邦拥有着自然条件的优势，沿海一带的海床土质含有高量泥浆，加上淡水与海水混合的水质，蚶苗会从物资丰富的土壤里摄食藻类，是养殖血蚶苗的温床。加上养殖者勤于照料，血蚶的存活率颇高且肥硕，规模和产量仅次于霹雳州十八丁“蚶都”。不同于主攻外坡和出口市场的十八丁，巴西不南邦的血蚶只批发供应本地菜市场。
自9岁稚龄开始以渔业维生，并在1989年开始从事血蚶养殖业的郭聪明大叔，在巴西不南邦甚至西马一带中算是血蚶养殖技术的权威人物。虽已退休十年，谈起血蚶，他依旧神采飞扬地分享多年来的养殖场管理心得。蚶苗从播下到收成耗时14至18个月，这期间需要不时抽查蚶苗的生长状况，并且疏散长势密集的蚶苗。
经验丰富的郭大叔透露，蚶苗的存活率得高达30%才有盈利的可能。结合数量与质量的丰收，血蚶养殖业的盈利额甚是可观。一九九五年为巴西不南邦血蚶出产最高峰，年产量四万吨，却于2015年跌至三千余吨。回顾90年代辉煌时期，当地有高达十来户血蚶养殖者，而今屈指可数。
近年来，各地海域面临海水污染如垃圾和化学排放，对血蚶的生存百害而无一利；海上工程也将大量泥浆和废料冲进养殖区，导致血蚶窒息而死。气候的变化也增加了血蚶养殖的风险，例如2004年末的海啸除了带来狂风骇浪，地壳松动也令海床的土质变硬，血蚶存活率低迷。另外，近年来自然蚶苗难求，养殖者被迫向邻国购入的蚶苗却遭逢水土不服的问题，全“蚶”覆没，血本无归。
在成本变高的状况下，血蚶的售价飙升，非法捞捕和盗窃血蚶者趁机从中取利，血蚶养殖业者可谓屋漏偏逢连夜雨，船迟又遇打头风。在血蚶供不应求的状况，加上饱受严重的亏损，全马各地许多户血蚶养殖者选择转行或结业。无惧万般艰难仍努力坚持做下去的骆国雄大哥，为了节省人力资源成本事事亲力亲为，今年42岁的他已然是巴西不南邦最年轻的血蚶养殖业者。
巴西不南邦的血蚶养殖业一度辉煌，却躲不过风浪与波折，面对莫测的变幻和挑战，业者们该何去何从？若无法历尽千帆，随着血蚶日益罕见，血蚶养殖业犹如风中残烛，明灭不定。
Cockles are indispensable in mouthwatering dishes like sour and spicy assam laksa, rich and redolent curry mee, as well as aromatic and delicious char kuey teow. Its tender flesh has the glowing scarlet of blood, tasty to eat whether simply being boiled or stir-fried in spicy sauce. However, cockle farming is an industry with high risk levels and dependent on ecological environment. Pasir Penambang, a century-old Chinese fishing village located at the western part of Selangor, was famous for cockle farming in the 1990’s, also renowned for its abundance of fresh seafood and marine products.
Pasir Penambang has natural advantages in soil characteristics, with muddy seabanks along the coast, brackish water which is a mixture of freshwater and seawater, as well as plentiful planktonic organisms for cockles to feed on, therefore an ideal breeding ground for juvenile cockles. In addition, diligent care by breeders helped ensure high survival rates as well as plumpness, the breeding scale and output is preceded only by “the capital of cockles” Kuala Sepetang in Perak. In contrast to Kuala Sepetang which mainly exports outstation and overseas, the cockles of Pasir Penambang only cater for local wet markets.
Having started out as a fisherman since 9 years old, then turned to cockle farming in 1989, Mr Kok Chong Beng (transliteration) is an authority figure in blood cockle farming techniques around Pasir Penambang and even within West Malaysia. Ten years after his retirement, Mr Kok still talks excitedly about blood cockles while sharing his experience in managing breeding sites throughout the years. From juvenile to adult, it takes 14 to 18 months for cockles to mature, in the meantime periodical checks are performed on their growth status, as well as dispersing clustered cockles.
The insightful Mr Kok acknowledged that in order to be profitable, the survival rates of cockles should be at a minimum of 30%. A fruitful harvest combining quantity and quality ensures impressive profitability. The pinnacle of Pasir Penambang cockle yield was 1995 with an annual supply of 40,000 tonnes, yet steeply declined to around 3,000 tonnes in 2015. Back in the glorious 90’s there were dozens of family-run cockle farms in Pasir Penambang, now only a handful remain.
In recent years, marine pollution such as plastic waste and chemical contamination caused severe harm to the survival of cockles, huge amounts of mud and debris from sea-based construction are washed into breeding sites causing cockles to die from suffocation. Climate changes also raise risks faced in cockle farming, for instance the tsunami which occurred towards the end of 2004 not only brought upon stormy waves but also seabed displacement and erosion, inducing mortality rates of cockles. Moreover, natural cockle spawn are getting increasingly difficult to come across, breeders are forced to import cockle spawn from neighbouring countries, resulting in mortality events due to inability to acclimatize hence unfortunate loss of capital.
(Full Text: uniness.galler...)
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文 Text/ 潘慧雯 Pua Hui Wen
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我覺得拍攝者應該視頻中描述和介紹這種沒落行業的特和色風景等等。希望能拍攝10分鐘以上。我覺得能吸引更多人觀賞。
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很好看的系列，奇怪的是订阅的人少。。
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你的作品非常好，希望相互订阅、学习、交流！谢谢！
Malaysia should cleaning up the rivers. Too polluted and dangerous for fish n seafood. Eating polluted seafood is unhealthy. Should learn from Singapore government how to preserve the environment