Richard raffan turns a tray for the tenth 4-Ways project.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- A tray needs to be flat and you must be able to lift it easily, so here you see how I turn a flat surface and keep it flat.
This the tenth 4-Ways video. 4-WAYS comprises Sam Angelo, Mike Peace, Richard Raffan, and Tomislav Tomašić who suggested that having a few turners publish their approach to one project on TH-cam at the same time should be interesting. 4-WAYS publish after noon on the first of each month, US time, which is evening in Europe. In the Australasian time zone it’ll be the 2nd. morning of each month. Each video has links to the others.
Tomislav - • Turning PERFECT tray f...
Sam - • Turning A Tray, Four W...
Mike - • Serving Tray - 4 Ways ...
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Love this design, its simple and effective....
Great figure on this blank
I so enjoy these 4 way projects and watching the various ways you 4 approach your work. Richard, a simple but beautiful platter. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
You have once more provided us with a masterclass on how to achieve a great object. Thank you for sharing your skills and techniques Mr Raffan.
Nice one Richard . You are definitely a class apart. I learn so much from watching you. Keep posting you enrich my woodturning journey and never disappoint . It’s interesting how much of your techniques are appearing elsewhere .
Something i've been thinking of making - perfect timing!!
Always such a treat to be able watch you turn Richard, thank you so much!
Beautiful work. A running joke at our woodturning class used to be "At no time should the I.D. be greater than the O.D.". 😀
...unless you set out to make a funnel.
It’s an honor to watch you work. Fantastic. Thank you for sharing this with everyone.
Richard, as I have followed and tried to mimic your excellent techniques my turning has become easier and very much more enjoyable. I can't tell you how much his helps and how much I admire your skills.
I'm delighted to be of some assistance.
Beautiful end job. 👏👏👏👏👏👏
What a beautiful piece of timber whipped in to perfection 😊
Many thanks for your continuing education of your world wide audience. A visit that you made to Toowoomba in about 2005 inspired me to start turning after acquiring a number of your books and DVD's. The advent of modern technology videos, with TH-cam in particular, has allowed you to impart you knowledge so superbly with the detailed description and logic behind each move that you make. Repeated viewing of your videos has allowed me to pick up knowledge that I had previously missed. A question that has arisen from this current project. Why the bees wax alone finish and no linseed oil? Thanks again.
I'm using beeswax alone mostly to show how quick and effective a finish it can be. Also, I'm using some new paler wax that's much softer than the sixty-plus years old wax you see in most of these videos. It's so much easier to apply than the older wax that I'm contemplating thinning the older wax into a paste.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the info. I will track down some new wax. Although mine is not as old as yours, it certainly has hardened over the years. Thanks again, Allan
@@AllanForrest-Winchester Maybe try melting your aged beeswax into some boiled linseed oil to thin it down.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the suggestion. The first half of the block of beeswax was converted into paste wax years ago. When I am able to locate some softer beeswax, I am certain that what remains of the old block of beeswax will become paste wax also. I don't like waste.
Richard. I really like the simplicity of the design because it lets the beauty of the wood shine. I have been working with wood off and on for 35 years and avoided woodturning simply because when I was younger, I didn't like all the ornate and elaborate looking spindles that I saw in furniture. I Recently bought a lathe and started to turn wood myself. I discovered your channel and techniques and have fallen in love with turning wood.
Welcome to the Dark Side... People do tend to find turning an addiction.
Always learn something from your videos. Thank you
Wall lines look good. Easy to imagine holding and using it! Appreciate absence of circular lines on inside bottom.
Great work Richard, as always very enjoyable time spent watching you in action.
“You don’t need a special tool to get a negative rake.” First person I have ever heard on TH-cam impart that wisdom!
One of my hobby horses. I think the whole negative rake thing is ridiculous, but it's been a bonanza for tool manufacturers.
I think you were in your comfort zone. The flat bottom tray challenge was a great idea. Interesting seeing your approach compared to the others. Fun one!
Thank you, Mr. RAFFAN. Great and informative as always.
well selected, a nice piece of Ash really sets off a beautiful minimalist design Richard
Thanks Richard , another nice 4 way project .
Can I just humbly say that I adore your socks!!!
You may, you may.
Maybe even socks, but especially hands! 🥰
Very nice Richard.
Thanks for the time and effort.
Beautiful tray Richard.
Excellent as always. Thanks
As usual, a pleasure to watch and you always make it look effortless, but I know from experience it is not!
Very good, love the tips as the piece progresses. Thanks Richard, great lunchtime viewing for me, now off to have some workshop time myself, as it's currently raining here. If you do happen to get down to Tasmania and visit, I'll have to be sure to send you home with some of our Beeswax, it's softer and almost white and doesn't discolour the wood very much.
utterly gorgeous! I want to make things this beautiful. I watch intently.
Very nice, I do enjoy your videos very much thank you.
Very nice, thank you RR.
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
I love watching these 4 way projects, was hanging out for this. Could you guys consider doing a deep ish hollowed project sometime? Something I am not confident doing yet. Thanks again. 😊
We did a vase/ enclosed form th-cam.com/video/Ixa-o9yitNM/w-d-xo.html and I'm sure will revisit that.
Great info as usual! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Was hoping for something Christmas oriented, but oh well!!
Trays need to be easily picked up and I suppose your tray at least was undercut to allow this. Lovely wood for a tray, a little on smaller side though.
As far as using a mortise instead of tenon, I use both depending on wood and grains. I’ve had some tenons just shear off and then have had to use mortise on bowl or platter.
I don’t understand your aversion to having any natural bark or inclusions left on your finished pieces as these can really add natures beauty to a bowl tray etc. obviously not if it hinders strength or finish technique.
Really nice tray that is obviously flat and has an edge to stop things falling, rolling off.
Well described and executed. Thanks for sharing.
The Xmas ornament was last month: th-cam.com/video/bLlBhHQON54/w-d-xo.html. To me using a tenon which you then remove is a waste of timber, so usually I refine or incormporate them into the design. Mortices generally compromise designs, especially on bowls usualy causing them to both look and feel heavy.
In 1970 when I began turning it was difficult to sell work incorporating sapwood, let alone bark. Spalting was not acceptible because it's incipient rot. Even today the majority of retailers are not interested in bowls with holes or bark intrusions. However, throughout the 1980s and '90s I was one of the turners who created a market for these and open burls as the woodturning revival got under way. I sold several thousand bowls with holes and splits and it was very good business but I always find creating a simple well-balanced bowl devoid of defects more of a challenge. A bit of flashy grain or bark intrusion doesn't make any bowl a work of art, just an unusual decorative object. It's the form and balance of a piece that ensures its longterm survival, not the wood
A beautiful tray. I love the flair of the rim. Very elegant. Great figure in the wood. Simple finish. I may be slow but I just realized you never power sand. Also I wonder how much pressure do you apply when putting on the beeswax? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and remember, as the wood goes around. the face shield comes down.🙂🙂
I power sand bowls and curves, but not flat surfaces where a block ensures flatness. You only need enough pressure to melt the wax but if in hurry, which I usually am, I'll press hard and equalise the pressure of the wax against the wood with support from the other side of the bowl wall. You'll see this in the videos on small or thin bowls.
That is a lovely shape with a lovely subtle play of the grain. Great explanations as always of the reasons why you use the tools you do, and the way you use them. Is it advisable to turn trays from less dry wood? Or the drier the better? Also, do you dispose of your oily/waxy rags in a particular way? Or does the wax prevent combustion? That first sock is almost ready to stand on its own one foot, I'd say... Many thanks!
Ideally, for anything that needs to stay flat, the blank needs to be very well seasoned and quarter sawn, so if the wood shrinks the tray will go oval rather than cup.
Oily rags: I never had my oily and waxy rags retain the heat developed during polishing, or gaining heat later. Rags with boiled linseed lgo stiff and unuseable overnight, so they're not in the workshop more than a few hours. If they are, they're in a tin or on the bandsaw table.
Another great 4 ways project. It was quite interesting to see the quite different approaches you each took to this turning, especially how you all approached the handle for the tray. A question regarding integral handle design, how practical would it be to have a more coved shape for the fingers to slip under when lifting the tray? [Not sure exactly how to describe this, I'm thinking of a cove at the top outside such that there is a hollow between the outer wall and outer rim]. Seems like it would be easier to lift but is that kind of hollowing practical in a piece of wood in bowl orientation?
One aside, I don't think I've ever seen such highly figured Ash -- that is a really nice piece of wood.
On a wider and thinner trays I have a cove you can get fingers under. On a tray this diameter that's not an option although your fingers do come up under the rim. I see this as an ideal sushi tray although it's large enough for a couple of glasses and a bottle or jug.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks!
The 4 ways panel was great. Would love to know who manufactures those calipers.
Veritas from Canada I believe.
@@johnmitchell1614 Thank you John.
Yes, Veritas in Canada. In Australia Carbatec have them and I'm sure you can get them in Europe.
The calipers are made by Lee Valley Tools in Canada.
Yes, I bought them in Europe.
Love watching you working with wood, from preparation to the finished product. I manage to learn something from every video and my turning has improved a lot from just watching. Do you have trouble with thin trays or dishes warping? Nearly every tray I have made has warped, (just enough to make it wobble) regardless of the type of wood I have used. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I had an 18-in elm tray returned warped 50 years ago which had been stored over a wood-fired range. It returned to flat in a few days and has been flat ever since. I put that down to changes in humidity. Ever since I've used woods known to be well seasoned and for their stability. Ideally blanks should be from quarter sawn boards so if the wood moves at all the tray does oval.
You'd normally be a wax over oil finisher. Why in this particular instance did you just go for beas wax? Secondly what make are your thickness calipers? Thanks in advance. I always learn from your vids.
This is a new and softer beeswax than the decades-old wax you see on the other videos. And just wax to show a quick and simple finish. The calipers are made by Lee Valley Tools in Canada.
Thank you for your reply. I think the trays have been a good project. I still have one to watch.
Richard. Thanks for another great project. After 30+ years absence from turning I bought a small lathe and I am in the process of making several 9" trays for family. I purchased some wood which was sold as Jatoba but it is harder and appears to be Macassar ebony or Ipe. I can't sharpen my tools well enough to cut except for the scrapers. Have you any suggestions on tools to use or sharpening other than forget it and buy a softer wood. I have used Jatoba for kitchen cabinets in past but never for turning. We have a very little exotic wood available here in PEI Canada and it costs a fortune to buy wood and a second fortune to pay for shipping. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks again.
Mark
I've not worked Jatoba so Googled. It doesn't sound like an ideal turning wood. If scrapers to the job, that's what you use. I'd use your local native hardwoods of which there seems to be a reasonable variety, and maybe some stain or colour if you find the woods too pale.
I bought a piece of jatoba because I liked the grain and it was not too outrageous. It is absolutely the hardest wood I've even turned. I got a 6" bowl out of it but think I used up half my gouge! But, it polished without a finish to a very high shine. I hestitate to do it again but just might have to....:)
@@randyscorner9434 A lot of timbers have a high silica content which you see glittering on the endgrain and occasionally as a seam running the length of a log. The tool is cutting fine, then suddenly it's not. That's when you look for something in the wood.
Wonderful tray. I see now where I’ve gone wrong in the past with the bottom.
How deep was this blank? 50mm? 75mm?
I think it was 50mm
Hello Mr. Raffan: please how thick is the blank? I am a beginner and still struggle with proportions in preparing wood before turning. Thanks!
I believe this one was 50mm (2") thick but you can use blanks as thin as 30mm. You see a slightly larger thinner version 30mm thick in: th-cam.com/video/tCnQIn-iT2Q/w-d-xo.html
When I've tried to melt beeswax into the final piece I find that the surface remains very sticky and it picks up lots of sawdust which is hard to polish. Is there a type of wax or inclusion of some oil that helps this?
You can thin the wax with a drop of oil, but sounds like you need more pressure with the polishing cloth. Surplus wax goes into the polishing cloth and you then need a cleaner cloth to remove surplus wax remaining onth surface. A beeswax finish should come up silky smooth.
Thank you very much. I will try harder!
I see you Brits have an interesting way of spelling yoghurt.
This Brit is an Aussie as well. According to my dictionarys both yogurt and yoghurt are correct/acceptable.