On stubborn things like that a quick trick is to wrap a couple layers of aluminum foil around it before putting the socket on. A couple pieces of enameled copper wire across the top also works but you will probably have to tap the socket on.
I appreciate your attention to detail, refreshing to see... Also, with rounded nuts, I have had some success with thin painters tape on the nut then place the socket on top of that. It won't destroy the nut.
I would recommend using a induction heater on those seized bolts, you don't excessively heat the surrounding material and it really works wonders to extract seized fasteners! Now that I have one I can't imagine ever having to live without it. Thanks as always for the interesting video's!
How nice to see you explaining things about a simple concept as a bolt. I highly enjoyed this episode because of the details! PLEASE don't add music! It's distractive and annoying very quickly. Thanks for very high informative and enjoyable video!
Working on automotive turbochargers we found the best thing to use on steel fasteners was a product called Kroil. The hot side of the turbos typically had 6 bolts holding the bearing housing to the cast iron turbine housing and they were always corroded in place.
I've had luck putting a piece of plastic over the bolt or nut then forcing a socket on it. Also worked well for installing them in hard to see/reach areas. May not be righy by any book, but it works.
We use a product called EZ-grip at work. It's an abrasive compound that you can put on rounded nuts, bolts, and inside screw heads and it locks against any remaining surfaces and allows you turn the damaged fastener. Certainly saved my backside many times!
On those slotted screwhead bolts I've found if you pour a lot of heat into them by welding with a MIG onto the head, it often will disrupt the corrosion that is gripping the threads. And by that I mean getting them cherry red for as long as possible. If that housing is magnesium obviously some extra care would be required. In addition, a few judicious whacks on the head with a copper mallet and drift will often move them vertically enough to free them up. I wouldn't do that to a flight engine but certainly if I could buck the base area I'd give it a few love taps on a boat engine.
I'm kind of amazed that these things don't get worse than they do, given all the heat and cooling cycles, dissimilar metals (even when one side is stainless), etc. I would like to see one of the successful extractions when they happen. Good idea to try to get CLR penetrating in there, I hadn't heard of that before but will put that in the mental file for future reference.
Great stellar work AgentJayZ... Living proof of not being afraid of moving slowly. Fear not moving at all! Thanks for the progress of this repurposed turbine engine. Looks like a fun project for my bucket list of things to do. I see some dumpster diving in my future!
not sure if they make it in 12 point but i have the flank drive plus sockets in 6 point they grab semi worn fasteners very well may be worth checking out
When you were trying to loosen that slotted head screw, the one that eventually broke, I thought that I could see rotation of the head, as you released the torque you were applying via the screwdriver. I know that studs are non-preferred (and have been for many years) in aircraft engine practice, but I might be tempted to replace those screws with studs in this case, if there's clearance and the assembly sequence permits their use.
Maybe some jizum (WD-40) can be sprayed down...on the fastener after the slotted compressor wheel has budged.... Then work on something else for a tiny....reapply the jiz...then continue the disassembly ? I think also a judious tap with a drift on the top of the slot compressor can maybe relieve some tension... Thanks Jay... You inspire me to work on my little APUs that are rotting out in the backyard..
It's amusing to get these tips from folks who somehow have brought themselves to imagine I have not used all of them repeatedly before getting "stuck" in the procedure. Thanks. It's the thought that counts!
Putting a torch to it would light up the workshop a bit... In the tryouts to the chemistry Olympics one assignment was to identify a number of metals. One metal I wasn't sure of but I thought it was Magnesium. So, a quick experiment using a Bunsen burner settled that... :-)
Only have a second... but maybe try a 5.5mm for the 7/32" stuff. And for penetrant, have you tried 'Mouse Milk'? It's been around for ages & has a pretty good aerospace following; and can be had on Amazon.
We're going to make the gasket, so it will cost about a half hour. The O-ring as a new RR engine part will be about a hundred bucks, but as a generic O-ring, it will run about 1.79 at an industrial supply center.
What sort of practice to keep track of how things came apart did you use before the advent of digital cameras? Did you draw pictures mostly? Polaroids?
I'm not that old, buddy... but I would guess a lot of drawings. It also helps to have a larger work bench, and lay all the parts out in order . Sometimes they need to stay there for weeks, undisturbed.
@@AgentJayZ yes i meant now that you can get to the threaded end do a couple of heat cycles then try to remove them, like you said it's not a good idea to use open flame on white metals. anyway thank you for your time and effort making videos
This build is so cool to see! Any chance you could get some views of the bearings and maybe their oil supplies? Also is it possible to see any part of the N1 accessory gearing? Thanks
The issue you may have been having with the 5/16” nut is partially with the socket. I know you said it’s a new/newer socket but if you look at the fluting of the splines of the socket the don’t run out the end. By that I mean the fluting is inset some and may not be fully engaging the full spline of the nut. The nut looks to have a very small contact patch and with the fluting not going the entire depth you may be engaging half the spline of the nut causing you to slip.
Yeah, it's a bit of punch to gut. But you're doing the "lord's work" following the best practice to resuscitate that old engine. You're proving the thing is serviceable, it just takes time.
When the bolt first begins to turn out, why not add more penetrant and work it back and forth some, (like when tapping a hole) until it loosens a bit, before forcing it the rest of the way off (or breaking it)?
It is an error to think that once the bolt moves, it will continue to loosen. I was doing exactly what you said with the first one, and it broke anyway because of fatigue. After that, I knew I would be drilling, and I didn't want to be there all week.
@@AgentJayZ additional complication most don’t appreciate is many of these nuts are self locking and the tendency for crs fasteners to gall, added to the aggravation of the crappy wrench ability of these small fasteners. Then there’s dissimilar metals…
I think it’s very informative to me and I hope your audience when you run into problems. The Solutions to problems you offer can hopefully aid me when working on my own projects. Do you have a solution to a aluminum seat post that has corroded in a chrome moly bike frame? I’ve tried heat, penetrating oil, tapping and clamping to a vice to turn but to no avail.
Must be really corroded. A combination of heat, lube and massive torque will eventually free it or break it. Once it's broken, you can get in there with a file and hacksaw blade to get it out. If the bike frame is that rusted, you know it's like that everywhere inside...
My guess is you added the square tap at the other end so if you had a bolt of a different dimension than what your magic tool was custom-made for, then you could use a suitable socket there and just turn it upside down and use.
Sometimes it's as easy as pulling your socket to the side on an angle and holding it as tight as you can. Just pushing on the opposite top and bottom of the damaged nut or bolt might give you the extra grip to remove the item. If it's a loose fit.....it's at it's very least grip holding it straight. Also......even though it was not metric.....it's really easy to just check and see if one will fit on a worn surface.
I also have used 2 or 3 thicknesses of plastic as a way to make the nut larger or the socket smaller. Put over nut and press down, and you will find the plastic deforms enough to fill the gaps. Also works for polished bolts and nuts not to mar the polished surface in getting them installed. Have also taken sockets and ground the bottom off a little, so as to get rid of that flare there, so the splines are right at the edge, and getting that extra mm of engagement. Yes, and made special tools for a job, including taking 2 good quality spanners, heating to red heat to detemper the handle, and bending it 90 degrees, then brazing them to a square rod at each end, so as to reach a nut that was deep down. Was that or spend an extra week to strip the machine down to the point where I could remove the 100kg top plate to get the assemblies out. You can see them, you can touch them with a finger tip, but no way you will get a spanner on them otherwise. Other tool to go with was another round bar with a T welded to the top, and a hex wrench piece brazed into a hole drilled into the end, to get to the M5 hex bolt that was the other half. Bought 2 Gedore spanners for the tool, and a brand new 4mm hex key, also Gedore, and ground them to pieces. Never broken Gedore, but have snapped Snap On a lot, they are too brittle. Broken way too many cheap ones though, or twisted them into pretzels. Especially screwdrivers, they are something I regard as disposable tools, as they wear soo much, and I really like hex bits, as those are very much disposable, I have worn them out in a day. But to be fair, if you are going through 1000 drywall screws, you probably are glad the box comes with a hex bit, that is a perfect match for the heads.
Hi! A&P student here. I have a question- the temp sensors in the gas producer section . . . I understand they are wired in parallel. So if one fails, there are still the others. Does the pilot get a "sensor out" light or anything? Or does the temp get averaged with the remaining sensors and throw off the actual temp? How does that work?
I don't know if my question deserves an answer but I'll put it anyway! What is the difference between holding the screw and turning the nut or holding the nut and turning the screw?
Not much usually, but if the bolt is body bound, or a dowel bolt, then turning it wears out the fit. Also, when removing crusty hardware, turning the bolt will cause it to break more often than is you turn the nut. Also also, When using an impact tool, the bolt will act as a torsion spring between where the torque is applied and where it needs to act. With a nut, you are applying the torque right where it needs to act.
It was a very good question, which certainly deserved an answer - and AgentJayZ gave you a comprehensive one. I was always brought up to believe that best practice was to hold the bolt and turn the nut, essentially for the final reason that AgentJayZ gave. Digging back into the depths of my memory, I recall that the through bolts of the Industrial Olympus power turbine had D-heads, so that the nuts had to be turned: I also think that the bolts were fitted (R-R's term for body-bound/dowel), and it is definitely bad practice to turn a fitted bolt. I am also quite sure that they had a splined extension at the threaded end, for use as an anti-rotation feature, so that no torsion was induced in the bolt shank, as the nut was torqued up. I recall having an argument with a fitter at R-R Derby, over a gear pump pack from an unknown engine, which was held together with long, fitted through bolts into threaded holes or thread inserts (not nuts), so that they had to be tightened by turning the bolt. I told him that, in the particular application, this might not be critical, but it was definitely bad practice. He took it almost as a personal insult!
Metric is the system of science and technology. These engines were designed before 1965, and I work within their system of fasteners. Got two toolboxes; one old and one modern.
@@dennisbailey4296 5/16" is ~7.94mm... 8mm would have been a worse fit, and 7mm is too small. Correct solution is spline drive wrench/socket and replace damaged fastener on reassembly, as shown and intended. It's possible at some point in it's "after hours" life a non-professional (home gamer) zipped that fastener back in with an 8mm 12 point from their big box store set and a power driver/impact. which would have promptly resulted in damaging the points due to "close enough" socket fit and negligence. Sponsored by "hold my beer" reassembly procedure.
I overhauled the fuel control for the Orenda, and there is nothing obvious that you can point to as a speed governor. Matter of fact the maximum speed of that engine is determined by the fuel pump. Pressure builds in a chamber due to fuel being flung through radial passages in the rotor. That pressure opens a valve and bleeds off the pressure in a cylinder that increases the angle of the swash plate, which is what determines piston stroke, and displaced volume per stroke.
I am riding my big Honda to Oshkosh, and may take a few video clips along the way. Hope to visit Crazy Horse, and maybe Mt Rushmore along the way. Not promising anything...
Another 'working on other people's abused stuff' story, but there will inevitably come a time when you get a piece so mistreated that you end up making an extraction kit for broken bolts that either arrive broken off in the threads or has amalgamated itself into the base metal that the head is just there cosmetically. Mine is the requisite broken bolt extraction set that drills into the bolt, a very tough set of itty bitty drill bits, penetrating oil, specialist wd-40, hoppes and CLP, and believe it or not, a freezing wart remover applicator. The last part has worked when all else fails, but only on bits that are an inch or shorter; you're kinda hosed on everything else unless you want to drill a mm channel down the center and drip feed liquid nitrogen to shrink the bolt. I definitely know why you'd avoid heating magnesium, but yes, heating the receptacle metal also works when it's not its own fire hazard in concert with freezing the broken bolt.
5:33 ??! Maybe, if the rod tool was C shaped, but S one? Both bolt's and torque tool's axis should be aligned in same point in transverse plane, if the torque tool should transfer the torque correctly? That cant be right, or are there some hidden calculations included? Or is the torque tool not transverse rotational, but the bendy-strain type??
Yes, if it was C-shaped, it would be perfect. It's not. The world is not perfect anywhere except inside the layers of an unpowered integrated circuit. Relax, and have fun!
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures Congratulations, you found a nice and simple name for it, while we Germans have to deal with such gigantic terms :)
Yeah, got those, and drilled out one of the bolts today. No go. These things are really stuck. Going to drill them all out, and replace the inserts. We'll see that in the next exciting episode!
In your video Jet Questions 54 at about 10:26 you mention the turbine blades running against an abradable material. You go on to say that when the jet engine is first assembled it is ran for about 20 minutes which helps the clearance between the turbine blades and abradable material to establish. My question is, after this first period is there any need to maintenance the engine from the particulates of the material rubbed off or are the particulates not significant enough to cause any discernible abrasions or buildup on/ in the next set of blades, turbine nozzles, or other? I believe the jet engine in the video was the LM-1500
It's a very small amount of material, and the turbines are the last thing on the way out. We've never found anything deposited on the turbine blades, except the red dust that is everywhere on this red planet.
AgentJayZ has given a good answer to your question and, from experience, I can confirm this. The amount of abradable material in question is minuscule. However, I've recounted my experience with the Industrial RB211 on this channel in the past. In the early days of its development and in-service trials at Burstall in Canada, we found that, if the installation was 'tripped' from full power and the engine could not be restarted within 20 minutes or so, the HP spool would seize for several hours. The problem was traced to the HP turbine tip seals and the air seal to the rear of the HP turbine disc. Because the static structure of the engine cooled more rapidly than the rotors, the casings and seal static members contracted, both radially and axially, onto the rotating seal fins and the spool seized solid. The solution was to pre-profile the seal static members, which consisted of a honeycomb filled with an abradable material, to a profile nearer to that of a typical worn profile, and then go through an aggressive running-in procedure during the pass-off test.
@@grahamj9101 the amount of trial and error, head scratching and pure engineering that goes into these engines is jaw dropping. The more I learn, the more curious I get.
A friend of mine had a local transmission shop put a 5-speed into a truck with a 6L LS engine. Nobody at the (transmission!) shop could test drive it, because none of them knew how to drive a standard. Guess it shouldn't be called a standard any more, eh?
On any machine I operate or own, I would replace all titanium fasteners with stainless steel. Titanium is mostly misunderstood by almost everybody. It is lighter, softer, and weaker than steel or stainless steel. Also is more likely to crack. It melts and catches fire at much lower temps than steel or stainless steel. It's got a very nice look to it, but otherwise it is inferior.
I didn't notice any blue bolts. Sometimes bolts will be painted to indicate they have been torqued. Sometimes bolts are required to be painted red to indicate that they must not be loosened or adjusted.
With better than Wang Tang Tempered Egg Noodle Chinese Allen drivers you can easily exceed the recommended fastener torque without tearing up the socket. Of course you would be torquing the nut to value, not the bolt in any event.
Juss btween unme... there is not one "helpful suggestion" here that was not actually employed...'cept the induction heater... cuz there was no access to the bolt shafts... 'till I broke 'em. Thanks to everyone!
Only thing I've found with Metric versus Imperial is that it permits thick headed twats to do SOME calculations in their heads. I'm completely at ease with either system but have never preferred one to the other, they're both a piece of piss really. By the way, those fools, when pressed, destroyed the best that tyranny had on offer.
On stubborn things like that a quick trick is to wrap a couple layers of aluminum foil around it before putting the socket on. A couple pieces of enameled copper wire across the top also works but you will probably have to tap the socket on.
I appreciate your attention to detail, refreshing to see... Also, with rounded nuts, I have had some success with thin painters tape on the nut then place the socket on top of that. It won't destroy the nut.
I would recommend using a induction heater on those seized bolts, you don't excessively heat the surrounding material and it really works wonders to extract seized fasteners! Now that I have one I can't imagine ever having to live without it. Thanks as always for the interesting video's!
When I have trouble like that, I sacrifice the socket and grind the internal bevel off. This allows full engagement of the splines.
One more reason why I like working on bulldozers, if the nut strips, break out the torch and cut it off lol.
heating magnesium with a torch is a bad idea, as you pointed out, but it would make a very interesting video
How nice to see you explaining things about a simple concept as a bolt. I highly enjoyed this episode because of the details!
PLEASE don't add music! It's distractive and annoying very quickly. Thanks for very high informative and enjoyable video!
Cool 😎 block of instruction. Your second job, special to fabrication technician!
Working on automotive turbochargers we found the best thing to use on steel fasteners was a product called Kroil. The hot side of the turbos typically had 6 bolts holding the bearing housing to the cast iron turbine housing and they were always corroded in place.
I have a can of it in the shop.
Agree, Kroil is good stuff.
I am most definitely not a space music complainer
And I really enjoy your content.
Learning alot about aviation found your channel on accident great job enjoy watching every episode!!
I've had luck putting a piece of plastic over the bolt or nut then forcing a socket on it. Also worked well for installing them in hard to see/reach areas. May not be righy by any book, but it works.
We use a product called EZ-grip at work. It's an abrasive compound that you can put on rounded nuts, bolts, and inside screw heads and it locks against any remaining surfaces and allows you turn the damaged fastener. Certainly saved my backside many times!
It's not scrap wood. It's surplus natural hydrocarbon foam.
The original composite material! Mother nature was showing us how do do it for literally millions of years before we paid attention.
On those slotted screwhead bolts I've found if you pour a lot of heat into them by welding with a MIG onto the head, it often will disrupt the corrosion that is gripping the threads. And by that I mean getting them cherry red for as long as possible. If that housing is magnesium obviously some extra care would be required.
In addition, a few judicious whacks on the head with a copper mallet and drift will often move them vertically enough to free them up. I wouldn't do that to a flight engine but certainly if I could buck the base area I'd give it a few love taps on a boat engine.
Great work and great hands that can sense a difficulty in torque values. That's a real mechanic for you.👍👍👌
I'm kind of amazed that these things don't get worse than they do, given all the heat and cooling cycles, dissimilar metals (even when one side is stainless), etc. I would like to see one of the successful extractions when they happen. Good idea to try to get CLR penetrating in there, I hadn't heard of that before but will put that in the mental file for future reference.
Great stellar work AgentJayZ... Living proof of not being afraid of moving slowly. Fear not moving at all! Thanks for the progress of this repurposed turbine engine. Looks like a fun project for my bucket list of things to do. I see some dumpster diving in my future!
Oooh, the gut feeling when the bolt goes snap.
Most of us been there.... :/
But such a wise decision to take her apart sir!
Thanks for this latest series Jay. I can tell you that when I'm ready for turbo jet service, your my first call
Thick saran wrap works great for keeping output shafts clean while disassembled.
Sometimes a metric socket is a little bit smaller some sizes
not sure if they make it in 12 point but i have the flank drive plus sockets in 6 point they grab semi worn fasteners very well may be worth checking out
When you were trying to loosen that slotted head screw, the one that eventually broke, I thought that I could see rotation of the head, as you released the torque you were applying via the screwdriver.
I know that studs are non-preferred (and have been for many years) in aircraft engine practice, but I might be tempted to replace those screws with studs in this case, if there's clearance and the assembly sequence permits their use.
Let's talk a bit about the magic door without staircase at 6:48 :D
The way he stands in front of the tiny metal ladder makes it disappear
Maybe some jizum (WD-40) can be sprayed down...on the fastener after the slotted compressor wheel has budged....
Then work on something else for a tiny....reapply the jiz...then continue the disassembly ?
I think also a judious tap with a drift on the top of the slot compressor can maybe relieve some tension...
Thanks Jay...
You inspire me to work on my little APUs that are rotting out in the backyard..
It's amusing to get these tips from folks who somehow have brought themselves to imagine I have not used all of them repeatedly before getting "stuck" in the procedure.
Thanks. It's the thought that counts!
Putting a torch to it would light up the workshop a bit...
In the tryouts to the chemistry Olympics one assignment was to identify a number of metals. One metal I wasn't sure of but I thought it was Magnesium. So, a quick experiment using a Bunsen burner settled that... :-)
Great job as always!
Only have a second... but maybe try a 5.5mm for the 7/32" stuff. And for penetrant, have you tried 'Mouse Milk'? It's been around for ages & has a pretty good aerospace following; and can be had on Amazon.
I really enjoyed this video. I would be curious to know how much the overhaul parts like to o-ring and gasket cost.
We're going to make the gasket, so it will cost about a half hour. The O-ring as a new RR engine part will be about a hundred bucks, but as a generic O-ring, it will run about 1.79 at an industrial supply center.
What sort of practice to keep track of how things came apart did you use before the advent of digital cameras? Did you draw pictures mostly? Polaroids?
I'm not that old, buddy... but I would guess a lot of drawings. It also helps to have a larger work bench, and lay all the parts out in order . Sometimes they need to stay there for weeks, undisturbed.
induction heater to help get the studs out
They are only studs because they were bolts that broke. They were not accessible to an induction heater when I was trying to remove them.
@@AgentJayZ yes i meant now that you can get to the threaded end do a couple of heat cycles then try to remove them, like you said it's not a good idea to use open flame on white metals. anyway thank you for your time and effort making videos
This build is so cool to see! Any chance you could get some views of the bearings and maybe their oil supplies? Also is it possible to see any part of the N1 accessory gearing? Thanks
Without opening up the gearbox, we can only look inside through the oil filter housing, which we did in the video previous to this one.
The issue you may have been having with the 5/16” nut is partially with the socket. I know you said it’s a new/newer socket but if you look at the fluting of the splines of the socket the don’t run out the end. By that I mean the fluting is inset some and may not be fully engaging the full spline of the nut. The nut looks to have a very small contact patch and with the fluting not going the entire depth you may be engaging half the spline of the nut causing you to slip.
~17 minutes I’m laughing my ass off. Your dad jokes are up there with This old Tony :D
Try an 8mm they are very close to the 5/16ths
Yeah, it's a bit of punch to gut. But you're doing the "lord's work" following the best practice to resuscitate that old engine. You're proving the thing is serviceable, it just takes time.
I thought Canada's used maple 🍁 for engine blocks 😉
Watching again for review.....
I bet you can wait to perhaps turn down that output shaft...
When the bolt first begins to turn out, why not add more penetrant and work it back and forth some, (like when tapping a hole) until it loosens a bit, before forcing it the rest of the way off (or breaking it)?
It is an error to think that once the bolt moves, it will continue to loosen. I was doing exactly what you said with the first one, and it broke anyway because of fatigue. After that, I knew I would be drilling, and I didn't want to be there all week.
@@AgentJayZ additional complication most don’t appreciate is many of these nuts are self locking and the tendency for crs fasteners to gall, added to the aggravation of the crappy wrench ability of these small fasteners.
Then there’s dissimilar metals…
A sharp tap with TiN coating..and cutting oil is good to chase threads and Heli-coils...
I think it’s very informative to me and I hope your audience when you run into problems. The Solutions to problems you offer can hopefully aid me when working on my own projects. Do you have a solution to a aluminum seat post that has corroded in a chrome moly bike frame? I’ve tried heat, penetrating oil, tapping and clamping to a vice to turn but to no avail.
Must be really corroded. A combination of heat, lube and massive torque will eventually free it or break it. Once it's broken, you can get in there with a file and hacksaw blade to get it out. If the bike frame is that rusted, you know it's like that everywhere inside...
@AgentJayZ I’ll repeat the process. I got the frame for free and it’s a really nice vintage Bridgestone. I’ll let you know when it’s free.
That is some good advice, female before male. I live by that!
When you install them are you allowed to use anti-seize compound?
Yes, that is required.
My guess is you added the square tap at the other end so if you had a bolt of a different dimension than what your magic tool was custom-made for, then you could use a suitable socket there and just turn it upside down and use.
That's a great idea. Maybe I thought of that, but I don't remember being that smart!
@@AgentJayZ Well, you are that smart 😃
Sometimes it's as easy as pulling your socket to the side on an angle and holding it as tight as you can. Just pushing on the opposite top and bottom of the damaged nut or bolt might give you the extra grip to remove the item. If it's a loose fit.....it's at it's very least grip holding it straight. Also......even though it was not metric.....it's really easy to just check and see if one will fit on a worn surface.
I also have used 2 or 3 thicknesses of plastic as a way to make the nut larger or the socket smaller. Put over nut and press down, and you will find the plastic deforms enough to fill the gaps. Also works for polished bolts and nuts not to mar the polished surface in getting them installed.
Have also taken sockets and ground the bottom off a little, so as to get rid of that flare there, so the splines are right at the edge, and getting that extra mm of engagement. Yes, and made special tools for a job, including taking 2 good quality spanners, heating to red heat to detemper the handle, and bending it 90 degrees, then brazing them to a square rod at each end, so as to reach a nut that was deep down. Was that or spend an extra week to strip the machine down to the point where I could remove the 100kg top plate to get the assemblies out. You can see them, you can touch them with a finger tip, but no way you will get a spanner on them otherwise. Other tool to go with was another round bar with a T welded to the top, and a hex wrench piece brazed into a hole drilled into the end, to get to the M5 hex bolt that was the other half. Bought 2 Gedore spanners for the tool, and a brand new 4mm hex key, also Gedore, and ground them to pieces.
Never broken Gedore, but have snapped Snap On a lot, they are too brittle. Broken way too many cheap ones though, or twisted them into pretzels. Especially screwdrivers, they are something I regard as disposable tools, as they wear soo much, and I really like hex bits, as those are very much disposable, I have worn them out in a day. But to be fair, if you are going through 1000 drywall screws, you probably are glad the box comes with a hex bit, that is a perfect match for the heads.
Asleep? Are you being sarcastic? No way could I sleep while interesting things are happening.
Cool jet!
Hi! A&P student here. I have a question- the temp sensors in the gas producer section . . . I understand they are wired in parallel. So if one fails, there are still the others. Does the pilot get a "sensor out" light or anything? Or does the temp get averaged with the remaining sensors and throw off the actual temp? How does that work?
In application, most engines use an average. During testing, each thermocouple can be read individually.
@@AgentJayZ Thank you!
I don't know if my question deserves an answer but I'll put it anyway! What is the difference between holding the screw and turning the nut or holding the nut and turning the screw?
Not much usually, but if the bolt is body bound, or a dowel bolt, then turning it wears out the fit.
Also, when removing crusty hardware, turning the bolt will cause it to break more often than is you turn the nut.
Also also,
When using an impact tool, the bolt will act as a torsion spring between where the torque is applied and where it needs to act. With a nut, you are applying the torque right where it needs to act.
@@AgentJayZ Thanks
It was a very good question, which certainly deserved an answer - and AgentJayZ gave you a comprehensive one. I was always brought up to believe that best practice was to hold the bolt and turn the nut, essentially for the final reason that AgentJayZ gave.
Digging back into the depths of my memory, I recall that the through bolts of the Industrial Olympus power turbine had D-heads, so that the nuts had to be turned: I also think that the bolts were fitted (R-R's term for body-bound/dowel), and it is definitely bad practice to turn a fitted bolt. I am also quite sure that they had a splined extension at the threaded end, for use as an anti-rotation feature, so that no torsion was induced in the bolt shank, as the nut was torqued up.
I recall having an argument with a fitter at R-R Derby, over a gear pump pack from an unknown engine, which was held together with long, fitted through bolts into threaded holes or thread inserts (not nuts), so that they had to be tightened by turning the bolt. I told him that, in the particular application, this might not be critical, but it was definitely bad practice. He took it almost as a personal insult!
You haven't shown the trick of supergluing the nut to the tip of your finger.
I've used that one a few times.
I know you don't like metric much but do you think maybe a 12 point 8 mil would have fit. All the best from Surrey
Metric is the system of science and technology. These engines were designed before 1965, and I work within their system of fasteners. Got two toolboxes; one old and one modern.
@@AgentJayZ Just wonder if it would have fit better on that worn bolt?
@@dennisbailey4296 5/16" is ~7.94mm... 8mm would have been a worse fit, and 7mm is too small. Correct solution is spline drive wrench/socket and replace damaged fastener on reassembly, as shown and intended. It's possible at some point in it's "after hours" life a non-professional (home gamer) zipped that fastener back in with an 8mm 12 point from their big box store set and a power driver/impact. which would have promptly resulted in damaging the points due to "close enough" socket fit and negligence. Sponsored by "hold my beer" reassembly procedure.
Can you show us the speed governor inside a hydromechanical fuel control? Love the videos, keep em coming!
I overhauled the fuel control for the Orenda, and there is nothing obvious that you can point to as a speed governor. Matter of fact the maximum speed of that engine is determined by the fuel pump. Pressure builds in a chamber due to fuel being flung through radial passages in the rotor. That pressure opens a valve and bleeds off the pressure in a cylinder that increases the angle of the swash plate, which is what determines piston stroke, and displaced volume per stroke.
@@AgentJayZ Oh wow, I think I've seen a diagram of one of those pumps!
Those main shaft ball bearings that see 50900 rpm don't need to be replaced?
I'm guessing we wouldn't have gotten this far if we'd found metal in the oil.
Looks awesome 👏 Guess with the boat project not much hope for some motorcycle content this year?
I am riding my big Honda to Oshkosh, and may take a few video clips along the way.
Hope to visit Crazy Horse, and maybe Mt Rushmore along the way.
Not promising anything...
Another 'working on other people's abused stuff' story, but there will inevitably come a time when you get a piece so mistreated that you end up making an extraction kit for broken bolts that either arrive broken off in the threads or has amalgamated itself into the base metal that the head is just there cosmetically. Mine is the requisite broken bolt extraction set that drills into the bolt, a very tough set of itty bitty drill bits, penetrating oil, specialist wd-40, hoppes and CLP, and believe it or not, a freezing wart remover applicator. The last part has worked when all else fails, but only on bits that are an inch or shorter; you're kinda hosed on everything else unless you want to drill a mm channel down the center and drip feed liquid nitrogen to shrink the bolt. I definitely know why you'd avoid heating magnesium, but yes, heating the receptacle metal also works when it's not its own fire hazard in concert with freezing the broken bolt.
5:33 ??! Maybe, if the rod tool was C shaped, but S one? Both bolt's and torque tool's axis should be aligned in same point in transverse plane, if the torque tool should transfer the torque correctly? That cant be right, or are there some hidden calculations included? Or is the torque tool not transverse rotational, but the bendy-strain type??
Yes, if it was C-shaped, it would be perfect. It's not. The world is not perfect anywhere except inside the layers of an unpowered integrated circuit. Relax, and have fun!
@AgentJayZ: Do you know the "conical left-handed tap" (don't know the correct english term)? That might help you to remove those broken bolts.
I think you're talking about an ezi out
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures Congratulations, you found a nice and simple name for it, while we Germans have to deal with such gigantic terms :)
Yeah, got those, and drilled out one of the bolts today. No go. These things are really stuck. Going to drill them all out, and replace the inserts. We'll see that in the next exciting episode!
@@AgentJayZ Sounds interesting - can't wait to see how you actually solved this!
I am surprised you don't use a manual impact screw driver (aka motorcycle) a few well placed taps an voila.
Explained in the vid.
In your video Jet Questions 54 at about 10:26 you mention the turbine blades running against an abradable material. You go on to say that when the jet engine is first assembled it is ran for about 20 minutes which helps the clearance between the turbine blades and abradable material to establish. My question is, after this first period is there any need to maintenance the engine from the particulates of the material rubbed off or are the particulates not significant enough to cause any discernible abrasions or buildup on/ in the next set of blades, turbine nozzles, or other? I believe the jet engine in the video was the LM-1500
It's a very small amount of material, and the turbines are the last thing on the way out. We've never found anything deposited on the turbine blades, except the red dust that is everywhere on this red planet.
AgentJayZ has given a good answer to your question and, from experience, I can confirm this. The amount of abradable material in question is minuscule. However, I've recounted my experience with the Industrial RB211 on this channel in the past.
In the early days of its development and in-service trials at Burstall in Canada, we found that, if the installation was 'tripped' from full power and the engine could not be restarted within 20 minutes or so, the HP spool would seize for several hours. The problem was traced to the HP turbine tip seals and the air seal to the rear of the HP turbine disc.
Because the static structure of the engine cooled more rapidly than the rotors, the casings and seal static members contracted, both radially and axially, onto the rotating seal fins and the spool seized solid.
The solution was to pre-profile the seal static members, which consisted of a honeycomb filled with an abradable material, to a profile nearer to that of a typical worn profile, and then go through an aggressive running-in procedure during the pass-off test.
@@AgentJayZ Huge fan, thanks for the reply! Red planet 😆
@@grahamj9101 the amount of trial and error, head scratching and pure engineering that goes into these engines is jaw dropping. The more I learn, the more curious I get.
Like a distributor wrench.
I know some young bucks who have never seen a distributor or carburetor.
A friend of mine had a local transmission shop put a 5-speed into a truck with a 6L LS engine. Nobody at the (transmission!) shop could test drive it, because none of them knew how to drive a standard.
Guess it shouldn't be called a standard any more, eh?
My 6 speed standard is a great theft deterrent.
I'm assuming a device with a brand name that in part describes its locking jaws has no place in your shop
Those are used when things have gone bad, and are part of a series of last resorts... So yes I have a pair.
Cat ear visible at 14:30 :)
Dog.
What happens with old titanium bolts ?
edit. Nevermind dumb question
On any machine I operate or own, I would replace all titanium fasteners with stainless steel.
Titanium is mostly misunderstood by almost everybody.
It is lighter, softer, and weaker than steel or stainless steel. Also is more likely to crack.
It melts and catches fire at much lower temps than steel or stainless steel.
It's got a very nice look to it, but otherwise it is inferior.
Try using aluminum foil (steel foil would be better?)as a shim inside the socket.
Why are some bolt heads on the engine components coloured blue? Are those valves?
I didn't notice any blue bolts. Sometimes bolts will be painted to indicate they have been torqued. Sometimes bolts are required to be painted red to indicate that they must not be loosened or adjusted.
With better than Wang Tang Tempered Egg Noodle Chinese Allen drivers you can easily exceed the recommended fastener torque without tearing up the socket.
Of course you would be torquing the nut to value, not the bolt in any event.
Snug those socket head bolts into the 7/32 nuts with the ball-end wrench & torque with the shop made tool. Would be faster.
Self locking nuts slow things down, but what you described is basically what I did.
Jay, sometimes if you smack the bolt/screw with a mallet it breaks the seized joint.
Juss btween unme... there is not one "helpful suggestion" here that was not actually employed...'cept the induction heater... cuz there was no access to the bolt shafts... 'till I broke 'em.
Thanks to everyone!
AvE would go "Tappy tap tap" hehe
Thank you for the background silence. - A space music complainer.
NO Music wins every time it is either a music video or a intersting video the 2 do not mix so the lack of music is a win win every time
Thats a magnesium scroll you have there. Those can't be repaired FYI. Oh I see you know this...
Thanks
People that over-torque fasteners and choose slotted screws... * censored *
Bacon grease in aluminum
Quelle est le modèle de comprisseur ( santrifuj . Altirnatif)
Having fun yet ?
Use a 6 point socket for rounded fasteners
Doesn't work so well if it's a 12 point nut
Metric vs "English", metric is superior in every regard; however, sometimes we must work within the confines built by fools.
That's a little snobbish, especially since you don't seem to understand how time works... these engines were designed in the 1950s... over.
Only thing I've found with Metric versus Imperial is that it permits thick headed twats to do SOME calculations in their heads.
I'm completely at ease with either system but have never preferred one to the other, they're both a piece of piss really.
By the way, those fools, when pressed, destroyed the best that tyranny had on offer.