Ducati Traditional 2 Valve - Refitting Cam Belts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2019
- Presented by Brad the Bike Boy. This is part 4 of 5 parts on changing cams, adjusting valve clearances and adjusting valve timing on Ducati traditional 2 valve engines.
We are looking to produce a number of other videos in the future in this series - Mike
Brad is based in Melbourne Australia and specialises in Ducati motorcycles.
bikeboy.org/
Nearly 8k views and only 122 likes?? WTF. And who down thumbs this? WTF? Thank you Mike and Brad. That's the LAST time I piss about with phones and guitar tuner apps.
One of the most helpful video series online about Ducatis. Criminally underrated.
Great thanks to you, Sir.
Good Mechanic !
Good stuff here, but a tip is to also check your tensioner bearings. Especially the vertical cylinder's. Mine were toast. Replacements can be had pretty cheaply rather than buying the whole assy.. Removing/ Installing them on the tensioner can be challenging. Puller for removal, drift/socket & vice along with some never seize for install. I also recommend installing new E clips.
when you 'pinged' the belts with sonic measurement you did the horiz cyl belt on the shirt run to the tensioner bearing. For the vertical cyl belt you pinged the short run going to the 'fixed' pulley bearing. Does it matter which belt of the belt you 'ping'??
Hi, thank you for making this video. The upper vertical cam moved when I removed the old belt. Im pretty sure it rotated clockwise. I move it counterclockwise with the timing mark on the cam and case lining up (just like before). Is it relevant that the cam moved clockwise/counterclockwise as long the timing marks lines back up? The reason why I ask is after I installed the belts, my ‘05 Monster S2R wont fire up. It cranks (I hear gas pumping, I can smell gas getting dumped into the exhaust) and very faint rumbles from the engine/exhaust. Any idea what is happening? Thanks in advance.
So this bike has 5mm adjuster Allen bolts? I noticed you were using the same Allen key to check the tension and do up the adjusters.
My 2000 ST2 has 6mm Allen bolts, but I still check the tension with a 5mm key.
Suggestions on turning over the engine with out the nice hand crank on the side? Put in gear and spin the back tire?
put in a higher (3/4) gear and spin wheel counter clockwise while your rear wheel is on a stand.
I don't understand why people mark the (used) belts to try to get them back in the exact position as they were. I think Brad pointed out succinctly that if you line up the crank shaft dot and the two cam pulley dots you're good to go. What's up with teeth counting etc.? What am I missing here? Thanks for this vid too, Brad. Cheers!
Hello John, different ways to do the same, I guess! greetings from Argentina
Teethcounting comes in for dual cam (testastretta) engines to ensure the your belt is in the right position between the 2 cams. On desmo due engines nobody counts the teeths.
Great advice about turning the motor over many times before tensioning. But you are measuring the Hz of the horizontal cylinder on the tensioner side and then vertical cylinder on the idler side. Of course you are getting the wrong Hz. You say that you do it "by feel". Well... what does that mean? Where does this sense of "feel" come from?
What valve shim kit should be bought for a 1993 Ducati 900ss?
Really helpful video and I don't want to be destructive but to be honest: I think the sonic measurement of the belt is totally pointless and inaccurate. The frequency depends on three things: material, longitude, stiffness. The 4 free sections of the same belt have 4 different resonation frequencies like a guitar string held on 4 different bunds. The 2 belts have 8. And the stiffness is constantly changing during the operation. Lastly, I don't really sure U measuring the sound of the pinged belt (since it has to be a really quet, and short resonation), or measuring the sound of the interaction of the belt and your rubber glove, or measuring both at the same time.
Hi Brad, can you please explain to me why the later engines like the ds need the sonic method to check adjustment, why s the feel/5mm allen key method not ok for the later 2v motors if it is ok for the earlier 2v motors. i have an 04 1000ds motor and did my belts so that the 5mm key could squeeze through and a 6mm couldn't (a method i saw on an old california cycle works vid'), and it has been fine for 1000s of miles since, was i just lucky?
I'd also like to know and have done the same with my 2007 DS engine. Actually, on two occasions after having belts changed on my DS engines at the dealer, the bearings started squealing when the engine got hot. I simply backed off the tension a bit and it stopped and I had no dramas since. I also use that 5mm clearance on the idler pulley method (not the tensioner pulley). I feel the frequency method on air cooled DS is too tight. I now change belts myself and have never had any dramas.
I have a 2005 1000DS engine but it is a two valve as well, would 140Hz be good for that application?
There has been a bit of discussion on this, the Ducati Service Manual was out of date as soon as printed and Ducati have since revissed the belt tension spec. Online I've ready some say 80Hz, others 90Hz or a 3mm allen key method to slide with some resistance between the belts and tensioner, best to call your local Duc for the latest on this.
The 140Hz was wrong and Ducati issued a Service Bulletin to clarify belt tension. New belt tension for H and V is 105 - 115Hz and retension used belt for H and V is 90 - 100Hz if when inspected is 70Hz or less.
mike hello. can you pls make a video explaining how to do a 2012 multistrada 1200s cam belt refitting 2 cams per cylinder and I have no marks thank you
You may find what you need on Brad's channel.
th-cam.com/users/bradthebikeboyvideos
How do I set the timing for a 1999 Ducati 900 super sport without having any belt markings before installation
Do you still have a working engine with belts still fitted? If so then read up on getting a ducuati to TDC, fit cam locking pins (relevant to your model/year) to ensure the cams dont move then mark each belt at the bottom pulley AND at it's cam pulley (I use a white permanent marker also mark V or H to identify the vertical/horizontal belts), then undo the belt tensioners, slide out the belts, for each new belt make a new mark (singular) on the belt fitted to relevant cam which aligns to the mark on that pulley, remove belts, on the old belts count the number of teeth marks on original H or V belts and applly to new belts, then fit and if all goes well marks on new belts will align with marks on pully, tighten belt ennsioners to spec noting that when engine reaching operation g temperature they DO tighten a lot more.
Mike why the belt Is nòt aligned on pulleys? 2millimeters off pulleys....thanks ❤
Brad has his own channel now. Best to ask him there or via his web site.
www.youtube.com/@bradthebikeboy
bikeboy.org
I have an older 907 with flanges on the cam pulleys and can't get the belts off no matter what. Do I need to remove the pulleys from the cams on this? Any suggestions?
Cut the belts
@@jenserwig1707 I discovered I can get the belts off easily by pulling it partially off then just rolling the engine until it rolled off, and install the new belts the same way, but first you have to slide all the opening rockers off their valves so you don't risk bending any of them. Actually made it very easy.
could you please specify the name of the Apps, could not get them... thanks
Gates Carbon Drive
Mines got no yellow marks. I am in trouble cause need to put the belts back but no idea where to start...haha
Just put some marks on it!