I have found that using a flexible, clear, plastic hose that I bought from my local hardware store that you can buy by the feet. I bought 2 feet of 3/4". I like the clear because you can see what your getting out of the tank. I didn't even mess with making a pvc adapter for it, I just stuck it inside the shop-vac hose about 3 inches and taped it to hold it in place. The hose has a bend already in it from it being rolled on a spool. If the hose grabs hold of a big piece of deposit, the motor will bog down and just pull the hose out and take the deposit off the end. The plastic tube can get in every nook and cranny. Hope this helps.
My first attempt at changing an element on my own, I drained and drained and drained - barely a trickle! After 2 hours, I figured it HAD to be close to empty and started to remove the lower element... water gushed EVERYWHERE! Once it stopped, I could see the ‘turnaround’ element my plumber put in last time was stuck in the sediment, bent out of shape, as a result, didn’t want to be removed from the hole. Jimmied it some, got it out and spent HOURS trying to drain the sediment - alternating using a hanger to unclog the valve, a rod to stir up the sediment, repeat, repeat. (my HW tank was NOT humped like in the diagram this gentleman drew.). After I was done, I attended to the sediment every 2 months and eventually came up with inserting a semi-flexible poly tube INTO the shop vac hose. Cut the job into a manageable timeframe.... I also learned to pop the relief valve to provide some force (had a few faucets only slightly open) and I intermittently opened the cold water feed to the HW tank to stir sediment up here and there. ...NOW I find this video!!! ( I used other videos to learn the first steps I took). ... what did I miss? Cleaning the threads of the hole for the element with a wire brush and eventually overtightened to compensate for it. As a result, the element actually pop out when I turned on a faucet 1.5 mos. ago!!! OMG, water out of ANY place it could escape! (lucky to have a drain within 20 inches.) Oh BTW, this is being written by a 65 YO woman... 4 days after I had a new HW heater installed! I put in an electric descaled yesterday!
Great method for cleaning out calcium! One suggestion, do not use a metal wand or probe inside of the tank as the metal tank is glass lined to prevent corrosion. A metal wand may scratch the glass off exposing bare metal that can accelerate corrosion. Best to use the PVC pipe or rubber hose. The PVC pipe can be bent with a smooth radius (no kinks) by filling it with sand prior to heating it, then gently bend it. This approach works great.
I used clear plastic tubing and stuck some aluminum rod inside it. Steel rod or wire works too, just make sure to tuck the end enough so that it cant scratch anything. The metal makes it stiffer plus you can bend more to clean closer to the element hole and drain.
Kudos to you, out of the many videos I have came across that claim to show how to draining and clean water heaters, NONE had done a professional job as you had done! Even those service company that want from $100 to $200 to just drain water heater, not even replacing heater elements. Thank you for the demonstration and graphic! Keep on the good work. Now I'm confident I don't have to waist my money with service companies and I will do it myself!
Right on! Thank you for such an enthusiastic review and kind words. I just did the one in my house and it was a real job. The sediment was more like a white calcinated sand, and really packed in hard. It took me the better part of two days. Still, I saved the cost of a new water heater. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
I am doing the same thing on a gas water heater, but I have to do it through the drain valve opening. I just used whatever was around the house. A chopped up old lawn hose and duct tape and the shop vac. Did the job. THANKS
Be prepared for a mess! If the calcium build up is up to the element, the drain valve will be clogged and wont drain. Kill the power, remove the element and let the tank drain out of the element hole. I open the relief valve to allow air into the tank. I use an automotive heater hose (about 3 feet or so) and just duct tape it to the vacuum hose - that way you can angle it all around to get most of the crap out. After I install the new element, I leave the relief valve open, turn the water on, and when you get water coming out of the valve, shut it off - the tank is now purged.
Thanks Chuck, I'll be testing this out tomorrow. I had no idea I had two heater elements so the likelihood my water cools so fast is because one is buried in sediment. I'll likely be using some 3/4 PEX I have laying about. Thanks for the ideas.
Thanks for this. I just replaced both my elements and the bottom element had gone bad, most likely because of deposits in the tank. They seemed to be right up to the element. so now I'll have to try to do what you did and see if I can clean my tank before it burns out an element again! Thanks!
I had a rental service call on a WH not hot enough and not very old. I had some vinegar and put it into the tank and it helped to dissolve into smaller pieces and helped to flush out the stuff. I know it wasn't a complete service but it had corrected the problem and got water hot. I told Tennant to call if it didn't work and never a complaint.
Hey thanks for the insight... I did clean my tank once before using this method and thought I would check and se e if your method was any different than mine... The only difference here is that My tank is a 25 gallon and I have it laying on it's back with the scale straight down from the element hole and used my shop vac to clean it up... Cheers...
Please teach me how to remove sediment from a gas water heater (my model is 2014 Rheem G40S09HE38UO). I don't know how and where to open the heater so that I can see and remove the sediment inside the tank ( I assume I have to use shop vac, but don't know where I can insert the vac pipe into the tank to do the job)
Assuming you have a good water dip tube inside the tank, you are supposed to pulse on/off the incoming water supply with the drain open. Pulsing the water inlet will help dislodge the junk in the bottom of the tank. Simply opening the drain with the water coming into the tank, helps, but a better method is pulsing the incoming water.
Don't forget to change the anode if it's been 3-5 years and soft water you can use magnesium in sections, you have no clearance for a 42 in solid anode.If you have hard water like me with lots of limestone or calcium use a aluminum anode so it will last longer. You have to remove the clear plastic cover on top and dig down through the insulation and use a 1 1/8 socket I think and either some pipe dope of 2 wraps of teflon tape but make sure the anode has continuity to the ground to transfer the electrical current from the sacrificial anode or else it will rust out your tank in about 5 years. I just bought a solid 42 in aluminum anode from HD for $35 plus tax it beats paying $450 every 5-6 years. You should drain some water out of the bottom every 3-4 months to prevent most of the scale from building up and it can bridge your bottom element and short it out,
Has anyone used an endoscope to assess and identify the amount and location of the scale will vacuuming it? Would this save time and improve results? U can get one for $20-$30.
I just recently used an endoscope for my water heater. But I was running the scope from the top anode hole. The limescale build up I had was massive, LARGE pieces and structures. I used a piece of wood from the top to gradually break down the large pieces, and the scope made finding them very easy.
Dag Gone that was enough lime to fertilize the garden! I thought you'd be dumping vinegar or something in it. Apparently just needs scraped. Great video, just wish it was a gas heater like mine 😄
It occurs to me that if you replaced the cheap valve the tank came with with a quality brass globe valve and plumbed it so you drain water would drain outside that you could just periodically (monthly maybe) open the valve for a few minutes and allow the water flow to stir up the sediment and flush it outside. Sort of like periodically opening the drain valve on a compressed air tank to remove any water condensation. It would cost a little more to do that but I believe it would be well worth it considering the savings in heating the water and the time spent manually cleaning it out any other way. Plus if the tank ever has to be replaced it would really speed up draining the tank since you would not need to run a hose outside or to a sewer drain to empty it.
I just opened the access port on the bottom of my Rheem/Rudd commercial hot water heater and scooped by hand and wet vac almost 10 pounds of what appears to be sand. I live in NJ outside NYC, sand? Limescale dosent look like sand does it? The HWH was popping and percolating so loud u could hear it upstairs right thru the floor. Better now but I need a sediment filter.
I recently cleaned another water heater and extracted probably 50 lbs. of sandy textured calcium deposit. Here is the link to that experience. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
The anode rod is made up of more reactive metals. IE instead of resting steel or the other metal that may come in contact with it. The aluminum or magnesium or zinc that the anode rod is made out of. However limescale is essentially calcium build up it has nothing to do with the rest. The calcium buildup is merely because the heating and burning off of water and some of the steam and making the calcium settle and then come together you're cooking little calcium shells. The anode rod for infanticide the tank from rusting the limescale in order to stop that you would have to have a water treatment system before it got into your hot water heater
You can also use a limescale remover liquid and empty the whole container into water heater after draining as much of its water as possible and then wait for 6 hours and stir the mixture with a metal rod and everything will turn into a white liquid easy to be flushed out!
Try a piece of 1/2" EMT - can be bent into various angles ($2 at local big box stores). If you don't have a conduit bender - they even sell pre-made 90 degree bends and you can unbend it some against a hard surface
Do you have any tips for putting the element back in the the coupling? They are kind of a pain to thread back in, especially if you're using a "sandhog" type element because they're so end heavy.
They are awkward and a pain. I have no tips other than clean the treads and a little grease. And maybe have someone with strong fingers to lend a hand(s)
Vinegar is too weak to do anything other than to remove very thin deposits on surfaces. He uses the word, 'scale', but it is sediment. The tank wall doesn't attract scale.
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
Dont know if you respond nyo these videos bthat are this old, but I seen someone do something really stupid to try and geta heayer removed. They came into yhe home Depot inworked at and the bottom if the hot water heater was poped out rathwr than curved inwards. I guess they put enough pressure nto try and split the tank oepn to say it was a manufacturing problem. But they eneded up poping it out so it looked like a propane cylinder. On a side note, home Depot replaced the hot water heater for free with another warranty. Guess bbad guys do end up in the lead.
@@hardluckcharlie thank you very much for the video. I used a soft copper pipe duck taped to a wet dry vac years ago to clean my water tank in my hose in Florida. The only concern I had was possibly damaging the glass liner so I made sure to sand the end of the copper pipe so it would be as smooth as possible. I have to say I love TH-cam and all the practical information you can find on it.
I think I'm going to try to drain mine then put a couple gallons of vinegar in it to try and dissolve the sediment then try to drain and flush it and see how that works.
I just did another water heater cleanout and video. The Ultimate Water Heater Cleanout. I also did a vinegar test that I am going to tag on or make a separate video. But basically, the vinegar had very little effect on the samples I tested. I let them soak for 24 hours.
@@hardluckcharlie Ok, so this is what I did. I can tell when I have alot of sediment in my tank because since there is less space and therefore more pressure inside the tank, my relief valve will start to drip water. Instead of using vinegar, I decided to use citric acid. I drained most of the water from the tank, then put a couple pounds or so of citric acid into the tank through the hot water outlet. I added a little water and let it sit for about 3 hours before draining and refilling it. My relief valve hasn't dripped a single drop of water in over a month so it definitely helped. Side note, though, if you ever try it make sure you flush the acid out thoroughly before you refill the tank. I didn't and had a blue tinted water for a couple days. The acid leeched some copper from my pipes and turned it blue. Live and learn, right? Take care.
@@metatechnologist I don't know you generally have to use 3 gallons let it fill back up with cold water and let it sit for a couple more hours if you just use the three gallons on the bottom and I'm sure it would break it up though I still think the trunks would have been too large to necessarily just drain out. I think this vacuuming out and cleaning up would be great and then filling up the hot water heater with 3 gallons of vinegar and 40 gallons of water you know for a 40 gallon tank. You need about one gallon of vinegar per 15 gallons of water. Then it gets the scale everywhere just not down at the bottom and it also get rid of certain bacterial buildup
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
I'd be draining off the water, then adding a couple of gallons of white vinegar and let it sit for a day, just to soften everything up and break down the larger pieces of scale. Then, flush it.
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
The biggest question is, why are heater manufactures making such a small drain? Are they dumb or stupid or both or even worse than that? Water heaters could be engineered very differently to allow easy cleaning. My 250 liters central heater is full of this crap and it will be a night mare to clean it.
now thats what i call a thorough water heater cleaning job
Wow. Thank you!
I have found that using a flexible, clear, plastic hose that I bought from my local hardware store that you can buy by the feet. I bought 2 feet of 3/4". I like the clear because you can see what your getting out of the tank. I didn't even mess with making a pvc adapter for it, I just stuck it inside the shop-vac hose about 3 inches and taped it to hold it in place. The hose has a bend already in it from it being rolled on a spool. If the hose grabs hold of a big piece of deposit, the motor will bog down and just pull the hose out and take the deposit off the end. The plastic tube can get in every nook and cranny. Hope this helps.
Very good idea!
Definitely beats pulling all that crap out with a clothes hanger😂
Great video. I'm maintenance technician for trailer park and this is gonna help me repair those old tanks. Thanks
Glad to help
My first attempt at changing an element on my own, I drained and drained and drained - barely a trickle! After 2 hours, I figured it HAD to be close to empty and started to remove the lower element... water gushed EVERYWHERE! Once it stopped, I could see the ‘turnaround’ element my plumber put in last time was stuck in the sediment, bent out of shape, as a result, didn’t want to be removed from the hole. Jimmied it some, got it out and spent HOURS trying to drain the sediment - alternating using a hanger to unclog the valve, a rod to stir up the sediment, repeat, repeat. (my HW tank was NOT humped like in the diagram this gentleman drew.). After I was done, I attended to the sediment every 2 months and eventually came up with inserting a semi-flexible poly tube INTO the shop vac hose. Cut the job into a manageable timeframe.... I also learned to pop the relief valve to provide some force (had a few faucets only slightly open) and I intermittently opened the cold water feed to the HW tank to stir sediment up here and there. ...NOW I find this video!!! ( I used other videos to learn the first steps I took). ... what did I miss? Cleaning the threads of the hole for the element with a wire brush and eventually overtightened to compensate for it. As a result, the element actually pop out when I turned on a faucet 1.5 mos. ago!!! OMG, water out of ANY place it could escape! (lucky to have a drain within 20 inches.) Oh BTW, this is being written by a 65 YO woman... 4 days after I had a new HW heater installed! I put in an electric descaled yesterday!
Wow. Well thank you for sharing that experience with us. A lot of good information and tips. The best to you, and take care.
Great method for cleaning out calcium! One suggestion, do not use a metal wand or probe inside of the tank as the metal tank is glass lined to prevent corrosion. A metal wand may scratch the glass off exposing bare metal that can accelerate corrosion. Best to use the PVC pipe or rubber hose. The PVC pipe can be bent with a smooth radius (no kinks) by filling it with sand prior to heating it, then gently bend it. This approach works great.
I used clear plastic tubing and stuck some aluminum rod inside it. Steel rod or wire works too, just make sure to tuck the end enough so that it cant scratch anything. The metal makes it stiffer plus you can bend more to clean closer to the element hole and drain.
Or perhaps use electrical pvc 90’s as they have long sweeps
Kudos to you, out of the many videos I have came across that claim to show how to draining and clean water heaters, NONE had done a professional job as you had done! Even those service company that want from $100 to $200 to just drain water heater, not even replacing heater elements. Thank you for the demonstration and graphic! Keep on the good work. Now I'm confident I don't have to waist my money with service companies and I will do it myself!
Right on! Thank you for such an enthusiastic review and kind words. I just did the one in my house and it was a real job. The sediment was more like a white calcinated sand, and really packed in hard. It took me the better part of two days. Still, I saved the cost of a new water heater. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
Son-in-law cut a peice of old garden hose and did the trick. Thanks for the idea and help and for posting the video.
Glad it helped! Thank you kindly.
I am doing the same thing on a gas water heater, but I have to do it through the drain valve opening. I just used whatever was around the house. A chopped up old lawn hose and duct tape and the shop vac. Did the job. THANKS
Congrats on getting 'er done! Thank you for watching and commenting.
change your Anode rode to keep your gas heater working.
Thanks for posting, really. I need to do my gas water heater this weekend!
Be prepared for a mess! If the calcium build up is up to the element, the drain valve will be clogged and wont drain. Kill the power, remove the element and let the tank drain out of the element hole. I open the relief valve to allow air into the tank. I use an automotive heater hose (about 3 feet or so) and just duct tape it to the vacuum hose - that way you can angle it all around to get most of the crap out. After I install the new element, I leave the relief valve open, turn the water on, and when you get water coming out of the valve, shut it off - the tank is now purged.
Great video. I tried a garden hose, clear hose, and conduit...conduit is by far the best way to go. Just take it easy on the glass lining.
Thank you for watching, the kind words, and good advice! Take care!
Thanks Chuck, I'll be testing this out tomorrow. I had no idea I had two heater elements so the likelihood my water cools so fast is because one is buried in sediment.
I'll likely be using some 3/4 PEX I have laying about. Thanks for the ideas.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video. I didn't just want to replace the new elements into a dirty situation. Great ideas!
Glad you posted this. Some good ideas for getting the lime scale out. Will be using this idea soon! Thank you!!
You are so welcome! Thank you for watching and the kind words.
Thank you. You showed us what to do step by step and even your jigs.
Thank you for watching! I hope it helps. Take care!
Thanks for the video. Gives me a better idea on how to clean my gas water heater. I wish the gas ones had a big port like the heater coil ports.
Thanks for this. I just replaced both my elements and the bottom element had gone bad, most likely because of deposits in the tank. They seemed to be right up to the element. so now I'll have to try to do what you did and see if I can clean my tank before it burns out an element again! Thanks!
Good luck, and thank you for watching and commenting!
I had a rental service call on a WH not hot enough and not very old. I had some vinegar and put it into the tank and it helped to dissolve into smaller pieces and helped to flush out the stuff. I know it wasn't a complete service but it had corrected the problem and got water hot. I told Tennant to call if it didn't work and never a complaint.
Thank you for that advice! Take care!
How to add the vinegar & to how much water?..
Hey thanks for the insight... I did clean my tank once before using this method and thought I would check and se e if your method was any different than mine... The only difference here is that My tank is a 25 gallon and I have it laying on it's back with the scale straight down from the element hole and used my shop vac to clean it up... Cheers...
Please teach me how to remove sediment from a gas water heater (my model is 2014 Rheem G40S09HE38UO). I don't know how and where to open the heater so that I can see and remove the sediment inside the tank ( I assume I have to use shop vac, but don't know where I can insert the vac pipe into the tank to do the job)
EXCELLENT JOB and very through tutorial! Job well done!!!!
Thanks so much! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Assuming you have a good water dip tube inside the tank, you are supposed to pulse on/off the incoming water supply with the drain open. Pulsing the water inlet will help dislodge the junk in the bottom of the tank. Simply opening the drain with the water coming into the tank, helps, but a better method is pulsing the incoming water.
Awesome! I will do that this weekend.
Don't forget to change the anode if it's been 3-5 years and soft water you can use magnesium in sections, you have no clearance for a 42 in solid anode.If you have hard water like me with lots of limestone or calcium use a aluminum anode so it will last longer. You have to remove the clear plastic cover on top and dig down through the insulation and use a 1 1/8 socket I think and either some pipe dope of 2 wraps of teflon tape but make sure the anode has continuity to the ground to transfer the electrical current from the sacrificial anode or else it will rust out your tank in about 5 years. I just bought a solid 42 in aluminum anode from HD for $35 plus tax it beats paying $450 every 5-6 years. You should drain some water out of the bottom every 3-4 months to prevent most of the scale from building up and it can bridge your bottom element and short it out,
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing!
Simple and to the point.
Has anyone used an endoscope to assess and identify the amount and location of the scale will vacuuming it? Would this save time and improve results? U can get one for $20-$30.
I just recently used an endoscope for my water heater. But I was running the scope from the top anode hole. The limescale build up I had was massive, LARGE pieces and structures. I used a piece of wood from the top to gradually break down the large pieces, and the scope made finding them very easy.
Nice job. Best approach I've seen so far
Thank you for watching, and the kind comments.
Dag Gone that was enough lime to fertilize the garden! I thought you'd be dumping vinegar or something in it. Apparently just needs scraped. Great video, just wish it was a gas heater like mine 😄
Thank you! It was a LOT of lime for sure. lol
I made a vacuum extension with water hose taped to a pointy end
did you tell them to shut off the water fill line after killing the power? they maybe draining for a really long time! :)
Well yes, after 3 days or so draining, that might come to mind. lol
I have hope now. When I opened mine up, full to the top.
Bro u look like u got a killer Mohawk on the ceiling when u were standing up lol!!! Nice video
Haha. Now I have to watch it again! Thanks for watching!
Thanks bro... Gonna give it a go tonight...if I can put it all together....
Very quick question, would using Citric Acid (it works really well on calcium deposits) damage/corrode the tank faster?
The tanks are usually glass lined. Probably id you rinse with a Baking Soda solution it would neutralize the acid.
It occurs to me that if you replaced the cheap valve the tank came with with a quality brass globe valve and plumbed it so you drain water would drain outside that you could just periodically (monthly maybe) open the valve for a few minutes and allow the water flow to stir up the sediment and flush it outside.
Sort of like periodically opening the drain valve on a compressed air tank to remove any water condensation. It would cost a little more to do that but I believe it would be well worth it considering the savings in heating the water and the time spent manually cleaning it out any other way. Plus if the tank ever has to be replaced it would really speed up draining the tank since you would not need to run a hose outside or to a sewer drain to empty it.
you can fill the pvc with sand BEFORE heating the pvc to bend it to form. the sand keeps the conduit from collapsing.
Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful video - thanks! :)
what about for a gas water heater?
Replace the anode rod if you are going through all this!! It’ll get rid of the egg smell too
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to know.
I'm glad it was of help. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thanks 👍
Thank you too
Great info, thanks for explaining thorough.
Glad it was helpful!
I just opened the access port on the bottom of my Rheem/Rudd commercial hot water heater and scooped by hand and wet vac almost 10 pounds of what appears to be sand. I live in NJ outside NYC, sand? Limescale dosent look like sand does it? The HWH was popping and percolating so loud u could hear it upstairs right thru the floor. Better now but I need a sediment filter.
I recently cleaned another water heater and extracted probably 50 lbs. of sandy textured calcium deposit. Here is the link to that experience. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful. Thank you sir.
Great info. Does the anode rod decrease build up?
OR have any affect on limescale buildup whatsoever?
No the anode rod does not prevent the buildup. It prevents the tank from rusting out, so to speak and has nothing to do with scale buildup.
The anode rod is made up of more reactive metals. IE instead of resting steel or the other metal that may come in contact with it. The aluminum or magnesium or zinc that the anode rod is made out of. However limescale is essentially calcium build up it has nothing to do with the rest. The calcium buildup is merely because the heating and burning off of water and some of the steam and making the calcium settle and then come together you're cooking little calcium shells. The anode rod for infanticide the tank from rusting the limescale in order to stop that you would have to have a water treatment system before it got into your hot water heater
You can also use a limescale remover liquid and empty the whole container into water heater after draining as much of its water as possible and then wait for 6 hours and stir the mixture with a metal rod and everything will turn into a white liquid easy to be flushed out!
Can this be done with gas water heater?
I suppose if you can find an access port (hole). But I make no assurance about that. My only experience is with electric heaters. Thank you!
Will build up cause pop corn Popping noise ?
Hmmmm? I'm not sure. Maybe.
Yes, the sound of calcium “balls” rising and falling in your tank.
This is awesome
Thanks for watching and the nice comment! Take care.
Any suggestions how to get a stuck element
I finally experienced a stuck element. Here is a video of that nightmare. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
Where can you buy one of those metel pipe?? The slightly bent one?
Try a piece of 1/2" EMT - can be bent into various angles ($2 at local big box stores). If you don't have a conduit bender - they even sell pre-made 90 degree bends and you can unbend it some against a hard surface
Do you have any tips for putting the element back in the the coupling? They are kind of a pain to thread back in, especially if you're using a "sandhog" type element because they're so end heavy.
They are awkward and a pain. I have no tips other than clean the treads and a little grease. And maybe have someone with strong fingers to lend a hand(s)
@@hardluckcharlie Thanks much. I've never cross threaded one, but that would be a nightmare if I did.
@@BigRW Indeed it would. And after that episode I went through I was more than wary about doing just that! lol. Take care.
Thank You!
You're welcome!
What about a clear rubber hose
Try it. I found that a rigid wand works best for my tanks. Thank you for commenting!
Great video thank for your time!
Thank you so much!
Great video thanks 🙏
You are so welcome! Thank you for watching and the kind words.
Video not loading, even on multiple phones, Youpube blocking it...
Is there anyway to prevent this from happening again in the future?
Sure. Install a water softening system. Just Google "water softener." Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@hardluckcharlie Thank you for the quick reply. That's what I was thinking of doing.
@@hardluckcharlie Only a non-salt system.
Could you have used vinegar poured in through the lower element hole instead of the vacuuming?
Vinegar is too weak to do anything other than to remove very thin deposits on surfaces.
He uses the word, 'scale', but it is sediment. The tank wall doesn't attract scale.
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
2ft' piece of garden hose, duct tape, shop vac.
Dont know if you respond nyo these videos bthat are this old, but I seen someone do something really stupid to try and geta heayer removed. They came into yhe home Depot inworked at and the bottom if the hot water heater was poped out rathwr than curved inwards. I guess they put enough pressure nto try and split the tank oepn to say it was a manufacturing problem. But they eneded up poping it out so it looked like a propane cylinder. On a side note, home Depot replaced the hot water heater for free with another warranty. Guess bbad guys do end up in the lead.
Some people will do anything. Thank you for the interesting comment. Take care.
@@hardluckcharlie thank you very much for the video. I used a soft copper pipe duck taped to a wet dry vac years ago to clean my water tank in my hose in Florida. The only concern I had was possibly damaging the glass liner so I made sure to sand the end of the copper pipe so it would be as smooth as possible. I have to say I love TH-cam and all the practical information you can find on it.
I think I'm going to try to drain mine then put a couple gallons of vinegar in it to try and dissolve the sediment then try to drain and flush it and see how that works.
I just did another water heater cleanout and video. The Ultimate Water Heater Cleanout. I also did a vinegar test that I am going to tag on or make a separate video. But basically, the vinegar had very little effect on the samples I tested. I let them soak for 24 hours.
@@hardluckcharlie Well, that's bad news. I bought 4 gallons of white vinegar already.
@@BigRW The vinegar might work differently on the type of sediment you have. Let me know how it works.
@@hardluckcharlie Ok, so this is what I did. I can tell when I have alot of sediment in my tank because since there is less space and therefore more pressure inside the tank, my relief valve will start to drip water. Instead of using vinegar, I decided to use citric acid. I drained most of the water from the tank, then put a couple pounds or so of citric acid into the tank through the hot water outlet. I added a little water and let it sit for about 3 hours before draining and refilling it. My relief valve hasn't dripped a single drop of water in over a month so it definitely helped. Side note, though, if you ever try it make sure you flush the acid out thoroughly before you refill the tank. I didn't and had a blue tinted water for a couple days. The acid leeched some copper from my pipes and turned it blue. Live and learn, right? Take care.
Thanks for this video, I was wondering why I was saving those old junk weed-eaters?
LOL. Well now yow you know. Thanks for watching!
Dude, I think it was time for a new tank altogether!
Probably. If you're buying!? lol
@@hardluckcharlie Ha! I flushed my goddamn tank a dozen times and the water is still too brown for The Wife!
A water flushing at the end would help...
Great point. Thanks for watching and commenting!
That's how my grandad showed me how to do it.
It is the way. Bless your grandad!
Also vinigar melts skale but it takes a few hours i believe
It does, but for the amount of scale that is removed in this video, it would likely not work or take too long and use too much vinegar.
@@metatechnologist I don't know you generally have to use 3 gallons let it fill back up with cold water and let it sit for a couple more hours if you just use the three gallons on the bottom and I'm sure it would break it up though I still think the trunks would have been too large to necessarily just drain out. I think this vacuuming out and cleaning up would be great and then filling up the hot water heater with 3 gallons of vinegar and 40 gallons of water you know for a 40 gallon tank. You need about one gallon of vinegar per 15 gallons of water. Then it gets the scale everywhere just not down at the bottom and it also get rid of certain bacterial buildup
Dollar Tree sells vinegar...
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
I'd be draining off the water, then adding a couple of gallons of white vinegar and let it sit for a day, just to soften everything up and break down the larger pieces of scale. Then, flush it.
I tried different vinegars. For 2-3 days. No effect on my build-up. Even on a different tank with more sandy chunks of calcium. th-cam.com/video/6l9uZohvmcQ/w-d-xo.html
You need to drain the tank one a year to avoid all that sir!
TY Timmy!
Dont use metal to scrape with.
The biggest question is, why are heater manufactures making such a small drain? Are they dumb or stupid or both or even worse than that? Water heaters could be engineered very differently to allow easy cleaning. My 250 liters central heater is full of this crap and it will be a night mare to clean it.
I thought the same thing, a 1.5 or 2 inch drain would be a huge help!
Exactly.
this is an electric water heater; not gas.
You are correct.
Known issue, it amazes me they don't have a clean out port or method to easily collect the buildup
In case you wondered what that dude from Midnight Oil was up to.
lol. Thanks!