Not sure how much longer i wouldve been looking around trying to fully grasp this if it wasn’t for this video. I think I can finally say I get it. Still so much more to learn but I get it! 🎉
Excellent video. I really like the animation with your expert commentary. You have a knack for explaining complicated scenarios so they are much easier to understand. It’s a huge amount of work to put this together. Well done.
Thanks Jersey Mike! This was a better example than my junior college hvac class. We used the slides taken from photos in the book. This was way better.
You have to be a punk kid to talk like that. (Fuckin, shit, and dude) Only punks talk like that, because they still haven't learned to respect age, position, and wisdom. Grow up already and show some maturity and respect. You shouldn't stay a punk forever.
The smart thermostats I've used give you the option of whether or not to energize the green wire when turning on the furnace. If the green wire is energized, the blower will turn on immediately. If it's set to let the furnace do it (don't energize the green wire), then the furnace will go through its startup routine and the control board on the furnace will energize the blower motor once the startup routine is finished. The 2nd option is the more common setting. Older, non-programable thermostats, including mechanical thermostats, used the 2nd method by default.
Is there a standard default setting on that or will it adjust according to system set up? I'd imagine that "activate" option is for electric furnaces. Curious if it defaults to "activate" with electric furnaces and defaults to "not activate" on oil/gas. Or does it always have to be done manually?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I've been using Honeywell thermostats and their default for heat is to let the furnace turn the fan on, but it is configurable. However, this was also the way old mechanical thermostats worked (the ones with the glass tube of mercury).
Greetings Jersey Mike: Is it possible for an air handler using R22 as its refrigerant to work with a compressor using R410A as its refrigerant if a thermal expansion valve is used? I'm receiving so many conflicting answers here and I would appreciate the master's advice. Sincerely, Rod Machado
It is possible to do it, but it's normally not recommended because the R22 coil just isn't designed to handle R410A pressures. The TXV could help with that if you got the right one, but this pretty much puts all the success of the set up on the age of the evaporator coil, and they haven't made R22 coils for years now, so the older evap coil is highly likely to spring a leak. And if it does work, that might put extra strain on the compressor of the 410 unit in exchange for protecting the evap coil. In my career, it seems 9 times out of 10 the older R22 evap coils spring a leak before the R22 condenser coils do. So the odds of older evap coil working under abnormal pressures and you getting a few years out of it I would say are not very good. R410A is also being phased out now, so even if you can make this work, getting a few more years out of it may not yield much of a ROI, because once that evap coil goes (and it will), you'll then be looking at a situation where you now have to choose between installing a 410 air handler to match the CU that is starting to phase out just to keep cost even with replacing the whole system now (although to be honest, I wouldn't worry about it too much. 410A systems are still going strong, won't disappear anytime soon and will continue to be serviced even after the full changeover to the newer systems is complete, which alone will take years to do), or lose money on going with a whole new system with the new refrigerant systems being introduced and eating the cost of the 410 condenser.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Greetings Mike: Thank you so much for that very detailed answer. A little under two years ago I was sold an air handler that uses R22 and a compressor using R410A. The unit never worked properly. The compressor would come on for a minute, then shut down. The only time the compressor stayed on was when it was less than 75F outside. I can't for the life of me understand why I was sold an R22 air handler, given that R22 (freon) is so darn expensive compared to R410A. So it looks like I'll have to replace the air handler. I wish you lived in Southern California. I really do appreciate the GREAT advice very much! Sincerely, Rod Machado
You know, after all the issues, stress, that i was bothering you, and every one else out there, with my outdoor unit not starting up in heat nor cold mode??? I decided to go and check for myself, to see if I could see anything for my self that maybe the cause. AAANNNNDDDD....GUESS WHAT? I touched one of the wires that goes to the COIL OF THE CONTACTOR, and the darn thing CAME OFF in my hand. All these yrs, and THE MECHANICS who installed this unit DID NOT HOOKED THE WIRE ON PROPERLY TO THE CONTACTOR. It must have been touching somehow, thru the yrs, passed, because the unit was working ok, until recently. I connected back the wire PROPERLY, to the COIL, and put the thermostat to call for heat, and BOOM!!!!!, IT WORKS like a CHARM. Maannnn!!!!. I am happy. All is good now. But I really appreciate YOU Sir. Thnx a million for ur help. i HAVE LEARNED A LOT, these couple of days, AND I DID NOT LOOSE ANY MONEY. One guy in my area, when I called was asking $195.00 to come out to diagnosed the unit. WHAT A BUNCH OF RIP OFFS, they have here in ORLANDO. BUT, they did not get me. I am moving back to NEW YORK. Where the good old REAL AMERICANS ARE. THAT CARES ABOUT THE AMERICAN LABELING. Because these FOREIGNERS DOWN here that called themselves AMERICANS, are a BUNCH OF FAKES AND SCAMMERS. Now I know WHY a certain ONE TIME leader of the FREE WORLD, has his holdings in this state. IT IS WHAT, IT IS. But, GOD Bless YOU Sir, and may God still BLESS AMERICA. @@JerseyMikeHVAC
10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
oki, dude. is there anyway you, (or any one else) could explain how the "common" and the "ground" is the same in a 24v circuitry. Or how is the common grounded, or where? Thnx.@@JerseyMikeHVAC
The unit itself is grounded through the high voltage back to the electrical panel. The low voltage ground just gives a path for the power to follow in the case of a ground fault/short. Some older systems terminated low voltage circuits on the unit chassis rather than on a common terminal. A lot of furnaces used to do this with the burner circuit.
Typically, yes. You'll often just have 3 wire ran out to the condenser, so you'll have red, white and green. Red and white is often used and the green is kept as a spare in the event there is a short in one of the other wires down the road. But some companies might run 5, wire or 8 wire or whatever, and in that case typically yellow and blue are used. Yellow for cooling and blue for common just like at the thermostat.
A picture (video) is worth a thousand words. Another educational and informative video.
Thank you
Not sure how much longer i wouldve been looking around trying to fully grasp this if it wasn’t for this video. I think I can finally say I get it. Still so much more to learn but I get it! 🎉
@prevail.......me too! this video is worth gold.
Excellent video. I really like the animation with your expert commentary. You have a knack for explaining complicated scenarios so they are much easier to understand. It’s a huge amount of work to put this together. Well done.
Thank you very much!
Hey Mike, clever how you put this together, showing what controls voltage flowing where and when. Keep em coming....
fantastic vedio as always. great job breaking things down visually and machanicaly. You make it alot easier to learn this stuff
Great graphics. My understanding of systems is visual. This makes it easy to understand and comprehend. Thanks.😊
Great visualization for a newbie! Much obliged, sir!
Thanks Jersey Mike! This was a better example than my junior college hvac class. We used the slides taken from photos in the book. This was way better.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done! Best Through description of the thermostat wiring
Bro you’re really good teacher thank you so much
You're very welcome!
Dude your fucking videos of how to do this shit is beyond brilliant keep up the good work
More brilliant shit to come! Ha.
You have to be a punk kid to talk like that. (Fuckin, shit, and dude) Only punks talk like that, because they still haven't learned to respect age, position, and wisdom. Grow up already and show some maturity and respect. You shouldn't stay a punk forever.
wow! excellent video love it thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
The smart thermostats I've used give you the option of whether or not to energize the green wire when turning on the furnace. If the green wire is energized, the blower will turn on immediately. If it's set to let the furnace do it (don't energize the green wire), then the furnace will go through its startup routine and the control board on the furnace will energize the blower motor once the startup routine is finished. The 2nd option is the more common setting. Older, non-programable thermostats, including mechanical thermostats, used the 2nd method by default.
Is there a standard default setting on that or will it adjust according to system set up? I'd imagine that "activate" option is for electric furnaces. Curious if it defaults to "activate" with electric furnaces and defaults to "not activate" on oil/gas. Or does it always have to be done manually?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I've been using Honeywell thermostats and their default for heat is to let the furnace turn the fan on, but it is configurable. However, this was also the way old mechanical thermostats worked (the ones with the glass tube of mercury).
Great video
Thanks!
Greetings Jersey Mike:
Is it possible for an air handler using R22 as its refrigerant to work with a compressor using R410A as its refrigerant if a thermal expansion valve is used? I'm receiving so many conflicting answers here and I would appreciate the master's advice.
Sincerely,
Rod Machado
It is possible to do it, but it's normally not recommended because the R22 coil just isn't designed to handle R410A pressures. The TXV could help with that if you got the right one, but this pretty much puts all the success of the set up on the age of the evaporator coil, and they haven't made R22 coils for years now, so the older evap coil is highly likely to spring a leak. And if it does work, that might put extra strain on the compressor of the 410 unit in exchange for protecting the evap coil.
In my career, it seems 9 times out of 10 the older R22 evap coils spring a leak before the R22 condenser coils do. So the odds of older evap coil working under abnormal pressures and you getting a few years out of it I would say are not very good.
R410A is also being phased out now, so even if you can make this work, getting a few more years out of it may not yield much of a ROI, because once that evap coil goes (and it will), you'll then be looking at a situation where you now have to choose between installing a 410 air handler to match the CU that is starting to phase out just to keep cost even with replacing the whole system now (although to be honest, I wouldn't worry about it too much. 410A systems are still going strong, won't disappear anytime soon and will continue to be serviced even after the full changeover to the newer systems is complete, which alone will take years to do), or lose money on going with a whole new system with the new refrigerant systems being introduced and eating the cost of the 410 condenser.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Greetings Mike:
Thank you so much for that very detailed answer. A little under two years ago I was sold an air handler that uses R22 and a compressor using R410A. The unit never worked properly. The compressor would come on for a minute, then shut down. The only time the compressor stayed on was when it was less than 75F outside. I can't for the life of me understand why I was sold an R22 air handler, given that R22 (freon) is so darn expensive compared to R410A. So it looks like I'll have to replace the air handler. I wish you lived in Southern California. I really do appreciate the GREAT advice very much!
Sincerely,
Rod Machado
Can you pls do a video about mini split troubleshooting not too many out there
your videos are on another level. Thank You!
Very Welcome.
💯 💯👏🏼
Thanks a lot. Very useful and clear explanation. Great service to the community.
This is great! Thank you for making this video!
My pleasure
Thank you so much for this video 🙏🏿You don’t understand how much time this saved me.
No problem. Glad it was helpful for you.
Thank you!
JM, this is awesome. thnx for putting it out there. Hoping to see a similar set up for the heat pump system with electric heat strips.
Definately
You know, after all the issues, stress, that i was bothering you, and every one else out there, with my outdoor unit not starting up in heat nor cold mode??? I decided to go and check for myself, to see if I could see anything for my self that maybe the cause. AAANNNNDDDD....GUESS WHAT? I touched one of the wires that goes to the COIL OF THE CONTACTOR, and the darn thing CAME OFF in my hand. All these yrs, and THE MECHANICS who installed this unit DID NOT HOOKED THE WIRE ON PROPERLY TO THE CONTACTOR. It must have been touching somehow, thru the yrs, passed, because the unit was working ok, until recently. I connected back the wire PROPERLY, to the COIL, and put the thermostat to call for heat, and BOOM!!!!!, IT WORKS like a CHARM. Maannnn!!!!. I am happy. All is good now. But I really appreciate YOU Sir. Thnx a million for ur help. i HAVE LEARNED A LOT, these couple of days, AND I DID NOT LOOSE ANY MONEY. One guy in my area, when I called was asking $195.00 to come out to diagnosed the unit. WHAT A BUNCH OF RIP OFFS, they have here in ORLANDO. BUT, they did not get me. I am moving back to NEW YORK. Where the good old REAL AMERICANS ARE. THAT CARES ABOUT THE AMERICAN LABELING. Because these FOREIGNERS DOWN here that called themselves AMERICANS, are a BUNCH OF FAKES AND SCAMMERS. Now I know WHY a certain ONE TIME leader of the FREE WORLD, has his holdings in this state. IT IS WHAT, IT IS. But, GOD Bless YOU Sir, and may God still BLESS AMERICA. @@JerseyMikeHVAC
oki, dude. is there anyway you, (or any one else) could explain how the "common" and the "ground" is the same in a 24v circuitry. Or how is the common grounded, or where? Thnx.@@JerseyMikeHVAC
The unit itself is grounded through the high voltage back to the electrical panel. The low voltage ground just gives a path for the power to follow in the case of a ground fault/short.
Some older systems terminated low voltage circuits on the unit chassis rather than on a common terminal. A lot of furnaces used to do this with the burner circuit.
Thank you so much for simplifying 😊
Thanks a lot. Thanks your content i was able to figure how to wire a rib relay to a nest thermostat and zone valve.
Glad I could help
very effective method to train. I am sure that help a lot of people
Superb visual thank you for your work.
Thank you.
Easy to understand. Thx 🙏 much
Can you do a diagram for a gas steam boiler?
Absolutely
Great, helpful video!
Thank you, Mike.
Excellent
Awesome explanation. Thanks😊
Thanks for a great video Mike, love the channel!
Very welcome
Thanks Jersey Mike, valuable info 👍
You bet
Nice job Mike!...learned alot 💯
Glad to hear it
Great 👍
Thanks Mike
You are welcome!
EXELENT
Great video
Thanks!
Another great video!
Can you do some troubleshooting videos for RTUs, / AHUs, Split systems stuff like no cooling / no heating calls
Wow so Amazing what you did
Great video 👍🏻
Nice, nice!
Thanks!
Is a little bit more complicated when you have pressure switches but nice job
Great
Thanks..... Thanks
@JerseyMikeHVAC what is your image video platform used for this video? Hope to get from you
I just used Filmora video editor for it, but I'm trying to learn my way around Blender so I can move over to that eventually.
Mike: the "red & white" going to condenser?
Is this simply a color-coded industry standard?
Another great video!
Typically, yes. You'll often just have 3 wire ran out to the condenser, so you'll have red, white and green. Red and white is often used and the green is kept as a spare in the event there is a short in one of the other wires down the road. But some companies might run 5, wire or 8 wire or whatever, and in that case typically yellow and blue are used. Yellow for cooling and blue for common just like at the thermostat.
@JerseyMikeHVAC Normally run Y&B, never had issues.
...like the eight strand, just in case need extra.
Thank you for the insight!
@@gotchaplumber Yup. I run 8 for everything now.
@JerseyMikeHVAC Ditto!
...good to have extra wire if needed.
That’s some high shit presentation bro thank you
Do you plan to do private lessons?
Trying my best to find the time to start doing that soon.
I don’t see the capacitor
It is not a relay or control system
Good observation I didn't catch that. How does it incorporate into the circuit?
@@BabbyGuavaandfriendsSo what, it's still electrically powered and has a purpose and function.
Its BANG
👍
May I have your contact info please