I use a planer every time I make a scabbard, now. It is so nice to make the wood the right thickness to start, and relatively flat. Not perfectly flat, but a lot better. It saves a lot of time. I don't have a jointer, though.
Great review. I’ve had this jointer for about 5 years and it is a beast. Great tool, good price. Carbide head is 200% worth the money. Dust collection would be a great addition to your shop 😀😀
Carbide is 100% the way to go. I’ve never heard the argument that it causes more chip out I find quite the opposite. I bought the powermatic 8” jointer a year ago and I still almost don’t need to sand after face jointing boards. I’m definitely with you on going with the spiral head
I bought a Delta Jointer around 2005. I am just a hobbyist but I have used it moderately for years. I have never sharpened the blades. The cut is not bad even so. On general principles I’ll take the blade in and get it sharpened after the next project- I guess.
Good video. When using a jointer, slide the palm of your flow through hand along the top of the fence in cases where the material size allows it. (I did NOT see you operate it once like that) That way, if there is a sudden jump or otherwise mishap, your hand cannot go down into the blades.
Slight correction. The carbide cutters can be sharpened over and over. I have 3 different grit sandpapers on a piece of marble, 320, 600, and 1200 grits. Place the cutter with the bevel facing up and rotate the cutter in a circular motion to remove any burrs off the flat side, moving up in grit. I originally used the diamond type of sharpeners and they removed too much material. I have been sharpening my turning tools using this method for years. I normally get 30 - 40 sharpening per knife.
True helical, not just"spiral" cutter heads leave a superior finish and have much reduced tearout. If you are having issues with your rotated/replace carbide inserts leaving tracks / rough finish, its likely they were not rotated/changed with a torque wrench.
This is a great video and the jointer looks like a great tool. Thanks for making it. For space or monetary constrained situations, or maybe you just don't like producing a lot of dust, a hand plane works surprisingly well and is quite satisfying to use.
If you have grizzly shop tools, your going to quality finish but a production speed. A weekend warrior is not going to have this tool or a hobbiest just doesn't make sense for that kind of person. I use these tools to make a living so unless absolutely necessary I will not be pulling out a hand plane
Any details on the workbenches you made? They look like stripped-down Roubo's, which seems like something I've been thinking about making... And thank you for the thorough review :)
I followed you for a while now, I'm a woodworker my self, never thought I will see this kind of content in your channel. I have a cuestion did you make that kanna or did you buy it?? Greetings from Argentina!!
planer and jpinter are oposite on oposite side of ocean , I prefer global meaning over american re-labeling , Love the helical heads , looks like chip collection sucks , after all it is hobby size machine , blade cover looks very awkward , love praelogram adjustment
I don't like where you have placed the emergency stop. When you operate a machine like this, you will always be using both hands, so it makes more sense to put near your knees.. I'm not pulling your leg here. I am a cabinet builder, and it's a feature most plainers doesn't have. Actually I am surprised to see a emergency stop at all.
It's your hands that are extremely exposed, and in case of a emergency 90% of the time it's your fingers that will suffer, and you will be forced to cut the power fast, so you really only have your feet and knees to stop the machine.
@PENNA65000 nice to read. I have only seen this on a few brands so far. But I know it's been a long time without, or even a manipulated emergency stop. It is simply just too risking not to address these machines. You are practically pushing your weight towards the end of the blades. It was the only type of woodworking machine that I could find for years doing security assessments for the tradesmen guild and the schools in our region. There is mostly a little dust on the floors where people use their machines. It's a little thing to oversee, but 80% of all accidents were because the floor was slippery, and a bar would definitely be a better solution.
@@mattschreiber4251 Support whomever you like with your money. There are plenty of new and old machines that have nothing to do with the Chinese economy, and most of them are higher quality.
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](/img/n.gif)
And the helical cutter heads are a game changer 100 %👍🏻
Thank you for using tools for several months before reviewing. Too many creators on here confuse "unboxing" with "reviewing".
Great review! I made pushers faced with 1/2” grippy hard carpet padding glued to plywood blocks with sturdy wood handles. Been using them for years.
I use a planer every time I make a scabbard, now. It is so nice to make the wood the right thickness to start, and relatively flat. Not perfectly flat, but a lot better. It saves a lot of time. I don't have a jointer, though.
Great review. I’ve had this jointer for about 5 years and it is a beast. Great tool, good price. Carbide head is 200% worth the money. Dust collection would be a great addition to your shop 😀😀
Just got this jointer delivered today.. best deal online... I'll be buying grizzly going forward
I would recommend using foam concrete floats as pushers
Carbide is 100% the way to go. I’ve never heard the argument that it causes more chip out I find quite the opposite. I bought the powermatic 8” jointer a year ago and I still almost don’t need to sand after face jointing boards. I’m definitely with you on going with the spiral head
My experience as well with identical machine. Nice video.
The UK term for a planer as a "thicknesser," is probably a better term when you think about it.
I bought a Delta Jointer around 2005. I am just a hobbyist but I have used it moderately for years. I have never sharpened the blades. The cut is not bad even so. On general principles I’ll take the blade in and get it sharpened after the next project- I guess.
Good video. When using a jointer, slide the palm of your flow through hand along the top of the fence in cases where the material size allows it. (I did NOT see you operate it once like that) That way, if there is a sudden jump or otherwise mishap, your hand cannot go down into the blades.
How fast did that shop vac fill up? I too have an 8" Grizzly jointer and that thing throws out tons of shavings.
I took the foam off the push blocks and replaced it with 180 grit stick on sandpaper, much better.
Slight correction. The carbide cutters can be sharpened over and over. I have 3 different grit sandpapers on a piece of marble, 320, 600, and 1200 grits. Place the cutter with the bevel facing up and rotate the cutter in a circular motion to remove any burrs off the flat side, moving up in grit. I originally used the diamond type of sharpeners and they removed too much material. I have been sharpening my turning tools using this method for years. I normally get 30 - 40 sharpening per knife.
thanka for the tip bub.
True helical, not just"spiral" cutter heads leave a superior finish and have much reduced tearout. If you are having issues with your rotated/replace carbide inserts leaving tracks / rough finish, its likely they were not rotated/changed with a torque wrench.
You neglected to mention the rabbit ledge which is one of the big things that set it apart from the typical bench-top units.
I keep hearing about the rabbit ledge.. what's the benefit?
This is a great video and the jointer looks like a great tool. Thanks for making it. For space or monetary constrained situations, or maybe you just don't like producing a lot of dust, a hand plane works surprisingly well and is quite satisfying to use.
If you have grizzly shop tools, your going to quality finish but a production speed. A weekend warrior is not going to have this tool or a hobbiest just doesn't make sense for that kind of person. I use these tools to make a living so unless absolutely necessary I will not be pulling out a hand plane
Can’t believe I’m first!! Have loved your videos for years! Can’t wait to get my own forge to try everything you teach here!!
That's the same one I got works like a champ
Great info. Thanks again for sharing your time and talent! KANSAS
Any details on the workbenches you made? They look like stripped-down Roubo's, which seems like something I've been thinking about making... And thank you for the thorough review :)
Great review.
Regards
One Handed Maker
great review
I actually liked the push blocks that came with it. Its a great overall tool.
Thanks for the video
I followed you for a while now, I'm a woodworker my self, never thought I will see this kind of content in your channel. I have a cuestion did you make that kanna or did you buy it??
Greetings from Argentina!!
Grizzly fkd ya on sponsorship money and you then buy one of their tools? tryin to wrap my head around that
Had the same jointer for 15 years, would not have anything else.
I'll second that. Lol
You were actually working on a jet machine for calibrating your fence don’t be a joker
That's a beefy unit. Money well spent Walter.
planer and jpinter are oposite on oposite side of ocean , I prefer global meaning over american re-labeling , Love the helical heads , looks like chip collection sucks , after all it is hobby size machine , blade cover looks very awkward , love praelogram adjustment
I don't like where you have placed the emergency stop. When you operate a machine like this, you will always be using both hands, so it makes more sense to put near your knees..
I'm not pulling your leg here. I am a cabinet builder, and it's a feature most plainers doesn't have. Actually I am surprised to see a emergency stop at all.
It's your hands that are extremely exposed, and in case of a emergency 90% of the time it's your fingers that will suffer, and you will be forced to cut the power fast, so you really only have your feet and knees to stop the machine.
Laguna has a long bar all across the front at knee height. South Bend has a large red button at knee height on the face of the cabinet.
@PENNA65000 nice to read. I have only seen this on a few brands so far. But I know it's been a long time without, or even a manipulated emergency stop. It is simply just too risking not to address these machines. You are practically pushing your weight towards the end of the blades. It was the only type of woodworking machine that I could find for years doing security assessments for the tradesmen guild and the schools in our region. There is mostly a little dust on the floors where people use their machines. It's a little thing to oversee, but 80% of all accidents were because the floor was slippery, and a bar would definitely be a better solution.
Made in China.
Your point?
@@mattschreiber4251 Support whomever you like with your money.
There are plenty of new and old machines that have nothing to do with the Chinese economy, and most of them are higher quality.
@@tode5675 I know where machinery is made. Mostly in Taiwan, if it’s Asian. Just wondering what your point is?