I placed an LCD light above my lathe, a foot above my head. I know everyone can't do what I've done but man does it help. Mike, I absolutely treasure your videos. You're like the dad I never had. Thank you for being so consistent with content. I can always count on a couple videos from you every week.
Hi, I Really enjoyed this video and topic. I do have all LEDs in my shop but I often thought about full spectrum lighting over my lathe when I’m working with colors on pieces. Thanks for sharing.
Lighting is tricky and I have a lot more to learn. I guess daylight incandescents might be best but no longer readily available and the K4500 and up seem to do me well.
thank you for your time in making this video. Respect. I am new trying to learn on my new jet121vs and now understand why I am having some of my problems. I have it set up with no special lighting and realized many problems are because of shadows of my body from the lights. I did a search and walla I clicked on your video! Thanks again.
Great video - thanks. Good point about color temperature. Sources with cooler temperature ratings create a greater perceived brightness than sources with warmer temperatures - even with the same nominal lumen rating. Also, having that gooseneck fixture at the headstock is really helpful because you can twist it into whatever position is required to create shadows on the workpiece. I only have one functioning eye (had a detached retina - something that I wouldn't recommend to anyone), and using a gooseneck fixture to cause sharp shadows makes up for the loss of depth perception. Finally, incandescent bulbs throw off a lot of thermal energy (heat), and using an incandescent bulb in the gooseneck fixture that is close to the workpiece is uncomfortable, and it also heats up the piece you are turning. CFLs are much better because they don't generate nearly as much heat. But LEDs are best - not only do they avoid heating up the work and workspace, they also don't shatter like CFLs and incandescent bulbs when the workpiece blows apart. DAMHIKT
Mike ... I'm really a fan of the lights Ken Rizza sells. Not only are they high quality, Ken also gives some nice price breaks for quantity/club purchases.
Great suggestion! I touched on jaws in this video th-cam.com/video/qHNzZ4_yBIs/w-d-xo.html. But after a review, I agree a separate video on chuck jaws would be good.
That's the way to do it. What am improvement, amirite?! Colors are vibrant and it doesn't take forever and a day to get the lights to come on all the way in the winter.
It is an easier choice to move from the old T12 with the ballasts that took so long to warm up and they buzzed. My T8s still do a good job. Instant on and more efficient than the old T12s. But I will start pricing the LED replacements and probably get a couple to see if they are work replacing serviceable T8s.
If you have Aluminum oxide wheels you should be fine. I would save to step up to an 8" slow speed grinder before going to the expense of CBN wheels. Check out woodturnerswonders.com if you are in the US.
Lathe lighting should match the lighting the turning will be viewed with when it is completed. Therefore, since most pieces will be in a home with incandescent lighting, I suggest lathe lighting should be about 3200K.
Gary - speaking as a photographer, I can tell you that photographers (and other graphic artists) agree with you that the lighting used to produce the image should match the color temperature and brightness of the lighting that will be used in displaying the work. That's the only way to assure that the tonalities in the image will be visible and appropriately balanced (in the judgement of the maker) when the image in displayed. I would also agree with you that it makes sense for the color temperature in a turning shops to match the color temperature in the final display when the piece is being finished. That's the only way to assure that the piece will have the appearance, and impact, that you intend. But the process of turning is different - in the course of turning, the emphasis must be on shape, form and surface texture, and to be able to assess those characteristics the turner needs bright light - color temperature is irrelevant at that point because everything will change when finish is eventually applied to the piece. And frankly, the turner also needs for the light to be rather contrasty (ie, the size of the light source needs to be as small as possible relative to the size of the piece) so that tool marks and sanding scratches will be maximally visible.
Hi mike. love your videos !! gustion tho. i purchased a new lathe and put a magnetic base light on it about 1 year ago. now i just noticed that the bed and even rest are magnetized not allowing for as smooth action as i like. ever hear of this and is there anyway to de magnetize it.
@@jeffmessick1215 Sorry I missed your comment when you posted it. Interesting. I have not experienced that. I am guessing you must have a pretty strong switcheable magnet base.
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I placed an LCD light above my lathe, a foot above my head. I know everyone can't do what I've done but man does it help. Mike, I absolutely treasure your videos. You're like the dad I never had. Thank you for being so consistent with content. I can always count on a couple videos from you every week.
Hi, I Really enjoyed this video and topic. I do have all LEDs in my shop but I often thought about full spectrum lighting over my lathe when I’m working with colors on pieces. Thanks for sharing.
Lighting is tricky and I have a lot more to learn. I guess daylight incandescents might be best but no longer readily available and the K4500 and up seem to do me well.
I switched from florescence to LED shop lights it made a huge difference
Thanks Mike great job thanks for sharing
I will probably start switching mine out as the fluorescents need replacing.
Thanks for the topic. Ikea makes a floor lamp that I like very well. Had to get another one for my wife to knit with it was so popular.
thank you for your time in making this video. Respect. I am new trying to learn on my new jet121vs and now understand why I am having some of my problems. I have it set up with no special lighting and realized many problems are because of shadows of my body from the lights. I did a search and walla I clicked on your video! Thanks again.
Thanks for taking the time to provide feedback, Jeff.
Great video - thanks.
Good point about color temperature. Sources with cooler temperature ratings create a greater perceived brightness than sources with warmer temperatures - even with the same nominal lumen rating.
Also, having that gooseneck fixture at the headstock is really helpful because you can twist it into whatever position is required to create shadows on the workpiece. I only have one functioning eye (had a detached retina - something that I wouldn't recommend to anyone), and using a gooseneck fixture to cause sharp shadows makes up for the loss of depth perception.
Finally, incandescent bulbs throw off a lot of thermal energy (heat), and using an incandescent bulb in the gooseneck fixture that is close to the workpiece is uncomfortable, and it also heats up the piece you are turning. CFLs are much better because they don't generate nearly as much heat. But LEDs are best - not only do they avoid heating up the work and workspace, they also don't shatter like CFLs and incandescent bulbs when the workpiece blows apart. DAMHIKT
I love these little tips Mike! Thank you very much for sharing.
Mike ... I'm really a fan of the lights Ken Rizza sells. Not only are they high quality, Ken also gives some nice price breaks for quantity/club purchases.
Thanks Mike. Always enjoy these tips. Suggestion for a future video: Comparing different chuck jaws?
Great suggestion! I touched on jaws in this video th-cam.com/video/qHNzZ4_yBIs/w-d-xo.html. But after a review, I agree a separate video on chuck jaws would be good.
My lathe is coming this week and lighting will be something I’ll need to improve. Thanks.
Oh happy day! I hope you have your wiring setup. I am amazed at the folks who order a 220V lathe and wait til it shows up to schedule an electrician.
Mike Peace Woodturning I’m just getting a Nova Comet II so 120 will work. Thanks for the heads up though.
Good video, Mike!
Thanks, Rick.
Thanks, Mike!
I changed from fluorescent to LED and it made a huge difference. Should have made that change a long time ago. They have come down in price alot.
I need to start checking pricing again. Maybe it is time to switch some out.
Hi Mike after sharp tools you need sharp light great tip take care Y.N.W.A. Paul
Changed all my fluorescent to led.
That's the way to do it. What am improvement, amirite?! Colors are vibrant and it doesn't take forever and a day to get the lights to come on all the way in the winter.
It is an easier choice to move from the old T12 with the ballasts that took so long to warm up and they buzzed. My T8s still do a good job. Instant on and more efficient than the old T12s. But I will start pricing the LED replacements and probably get a couple to see if they are work replacing serviceable T8s.
Make Things with Rob yup like night and day. Haha.
Need help with sharpening, I have 6” bench grinders, the Wolverine system. Looking for advice on grinding wheels. Thanks Mike
If you have Aluminum oxide wheels you should be fine. I would save to step up to an 8" slow speed grinder before going to the expense of CBN wheels. Check out woodturnerswonders.com if you are in the US.
Lathe lighting should match the lighting the turning will be viewed with when it is completed. Therefore, since most pieces will be in a home with incandescent lighting, I suggest lathe lighting should be about 3200K.
Gary - speaking as a photographer, I can tell you that photographers (and other graphic artists) agree with you that the lighting used to produce the image should match the color temperature and brightness of the lighting that will be used in displaying the work. That's the only way to assure that the tonalities in the image will be visible and appropriately balanced (in the judgement of the maker) when the image in displayed.
I would also agree with you that it makes sense for the color temperature in a turning shops to match the color temperature in the final display when the piece is being finished. That's the only way to assure that the piece will have the appearance, and impact, that you intend.
But the process of turning is different - in the course of turning, the emphasis must be on shape, form and surface texture, and to be able to assess those characteristics the turner needs bright light - color temperature is irrelevant at that point because everything will change when finish is eventually applied to the piece. And frankly, the turner also needs for the light to be rather contrasty (ie, the size of the light source needs to be as small as possible relative to the size of the piece) so that tool marks and sanding scratches will be maximally visible.
Then you should say your finishing area should be 3200K.
Gary, that's a good point!
Hi mike. love your videos !! gustion tho. i purchased a new lathe and put a magnetic base light on it about 1 year ago. now i just noticed that the bed and even rest are magnetized not allowing for as smooth action as i like. ever hear of this and is there anyway to de magnetize it.
@@jeffmessick1215 Sorry I missed your comment when you posted it. Interesting. I have not experienced that. I am guessing you must have a pretty strong switcheable magnet base.