you could also make the whole system modulare and just use the test pieces as snap in part you can replace in future as needs change like keystone addins or something...
I always use slicer and negative volumes to cut out a feature I want to test, much faster than generating new model in fusion, just add 3 cubes to mask parts of the model you don't want to print, move model down in z axis to save even more print time and you'll have a small sample to print
Hehe I was about to do the same the other day. I had designed some battery holder and was just about to hit print on a 10 hour print. Then I remembered that I should probably test it before and did a similar solution to your suggestion, test print with the same dimensions. Thankfully I did the test, because the dimensions was slightly off so I had to correct them and saved myself hours of printing.
What you can do as well is import the hole model into the slicer, scale the Z only down to 2 layers thick and print. You can just about see all the holes etc to test fit things.
3D printing in it´s self is rapid prototyping, it´s used before you create tooling and such for bigger costs. I have no problem with printing segments of the part to make sure everything else fits but honestly since 3D printing itself is rapid prototyping I don´t care, I print the part 3x if need to until it fits, that´s basically what the technology was made for. It´s still cheap and takes way less time. with more experience for clearances and such your failure rate with decrease as well. After I designed my swiveling pen holder with 44 placec for the pens, I too printed out just one holder of the 44 pcs array to make sure all my pens do fit. The kinematics were designed and tested in CAD, tolerances were added and all but I still made a mistake which I solved with glue with 3D printing again. This happens, that´s what the tech is for. Mistakes are cheap.
While I do agree it’s rapid prototyping and still relatively cheap, at our school when resources are important to conserve, any little bit helps. Teaching students (and myself) to be smart with their steps, take the extra time to make sure it will work right, will save time and money in the long run.
Couldn’t agree more, my friend. That’s the next purchase here shortly! Appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching. Always love any feedback you might have for future videos, too!
$0.08/g I almost fell out of my chair! For 2.85mm I would look at MatterHackers or Polymaker which are highly respected large name brands and are about $0.02/g. I started out using expensive brands of filament because I assumed they were higher quality. I tried some $11/kg Sunlu PLA (1.75mm) and it printed every bit as well. Since then I have tried several other cheap brands and haven't had any problems. I haven't tried any $6/kg aliexpress filament but it is kinda tempting hehe. Happy printing!
In all honesty, I continued to use the brand my school had always used. Even at this current price, it didn't seem too bad until I realized what others are paying... Regardless, we live and we learn! I will certainly check those out, thank you for the recommendation, my friend, and thanks for watching!
Hello, my friend! The Ultimaker filament we use is $58 for 750 grams. When you take 69/750, you are left with 9.2% of the roll. When multiplying $58 x 9.2%, that leaves you with 5.336, or $5.34. Hope this helps to clear some things up, and thanks a bunch for watching!
@KennedyDIY that's probably the most expensive filament I've heard of. I've never paid over £25 for a 1kg roll and most of the filaments I've bought have worked flawlessly. That is some crazy price for filament
@@EagleFPV43 we may have to look into other sources for our school’s filament then… it’s just always what we’ve bought, I never really thought about it!
I always use cheap pla or petg and have a good time. I often order in bulk (like 10kg) and most of the time arond 15€. I often order sunlu, eryone or elegoo filament directly from their websites
Well, I completely disagree with you. In my opinion, with our schools resources and the prices of our filament, it makes complete sense to test the fit of our pieces, and it teaches students a very valuable lesson in project preparation. Well worth the time!
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for me, i just scale up 100.50% in slicer without any changes in fusion but it will depend on filament spec datasheet. good luck & happy printing 😋
This is another great idea, too! Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!
It's almost as if "rapid prototyping" can be used for rapid prototyping;)
Crazy concept, I know, haha!
you could also make the whole system modulare and just use the test pieces as snap in part you can replace in future as needs change
like keystone addins or something...
I would love to do this! Just don’t think I have the skill quite yet 😂 but thanks for watching, my friend!
@@KennedyDIYYou get the skill by doing it ;)
One thing i did was create a drawing with the dimensions needed for the clearance and printed it to have for future use
This is a great idea!
I always use slicer and negative volumes to cut out a feature I want to test, much faster than generating new model in fusion, just add 3 cubes to mask parts of the model you don't want to print, move model down in z axis to save even more print time and you'll have a small sample to print
This is a great idea, as well! Both work great, I think!
Hehe I was about to do the same the other day. I had designed some battery holder and was just about to hit print on a 10 hour print.
Then I remembered that I should probably test it before and did a similar solution to your suggestion, test print with the same dimensions.
Thankfully I did the test, because the dimensions was slightly off so I had to correct them and saved myself hours of printing.
I, unfortunately, was not as smart as you were and learned the hard way 😂 lesson learned! Glad you were on top of things!
What you can do as well is import the hole model into the slicer, scale the Z only down to 2 layers thick and print. You can just about see all the holes etc to test fit things.
Great idea! I like this one a lot.
I usually cut the critical section in the slicer to try.
Another great method, for sure!
3D printing in it´s self is rapid prototyping, it´s used before you create tooling and such for bigger costs. I have no problem with printing segments of the part to make sure everything else fits but honestly since 3D printing itself is rapid prototyping I don´t care, I print the part 3x if need to until it fits, that´s basically what the technology was made for. It´s still cheap and takes way less time. with more experience for clearances and such your failure rate with decrease as well.
After I designed my swiveling pen holder with 44 placec for the pens, I too printed out just one holder of the 44 pcs array to make sure all my pens do fit. The kinematics were designed and tested in CAD, tolerances were added and all but I still made a mistake which I solved with glue with 3D printing again. This happens, that´s what the tech is for. Mistakes are cheap.
While I do agree it’s rapid prototyping and still relatively cheap, at our school when resources are important to conserve, any little bit helps. Teaching students (and myself) to be smart with their steps, take the extra time to make sure it will work right, will save time and money in the long run.
@@KennedyDIY You are right, your context is different, nothing wrong with that.
Didn´t realize you are a teacher, you are so young. Good job.
@@sierraecho884 thanks, man! I really appreciate that! Also appreciate all your insight on the videos. Means a lot!
@@KennedyDIY I try to leave more comments for the algorythm as well =)
@@sierraecho884we love the dual purpose comments 😂 appreciate that, man!
Small suggestion, your audio is pretty good but your lighting could be easily improved
Couldn’t agree more, my friend. That’s the next purchase here shortly! Appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching. Always love any feedback you might have for future videos, too!
$0.08/g I almost fell out of my chair! For 2.85mm I would look at MatterHackers or Polymaker which are highly respected large name brands and are about $0.02/g. I started out using expensive brands of filament because I assumed they were higher quality. I tried some $11/kg Sunlu PLA (1.75mm) and it printed every bit as well. Since then I have tried several other cheap brands and haven't had any problems. I haven't tried any $6/kg aliexpress filament but it is kinda tempting hehe. Happy printing!
In all honesty, I continued to use the brand my school had always used. Even at this current price, it didn't seem too bad until I realized what others are paying... Regardless, we live and we learn! I will certainly check those out, thank you for the recommendation, my friend, and thanks for watching!
Great video
I really appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed and thanks so much for watching!
I did a test first cause i didnt know how much of a clearance was needed for my button box
Doing a small test is always a great idea!
Nice vid
Thank you my, friend really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Dude I had no idea you could just grab that cube in the top right and rotate it around like that. I thought you could only click on it!
I would be lying if I said this was something I had known for a while 😂 just learned this recently myself!
Nothing worse than a 22 hour print not working because you had one measurement off by a few thousandths. 🙃
Truly nothing worse - definitely drives one nuts!
Parametric design -> Dimensional accuracy tests. Don’t make models without tolerances accounted for.
I think both certainly have their merits!
You're using costs of $75-80 per kg of filament - that seems excessively high. Are you factoring in something else other than material cost?
Hello, my friend! The Ultimaker filament we use is $58 for 750 grams. When you take 69/750, you are left with 9.2% of the roll. When multiplying $58 x 9.2%, that leaves you with 5.336, or $5.34. Hope this helps to clear some things up, and thanks a bunch for watching!
@KennedyDIY that's probably the most expensive filament I've heard of. I've never paid over £25 for a 1kg roll and most of the filaments I've bought have worked flawlessly. That is some crazy price for filament
@@EagleFPV43 we may have to look into other sources for our school’s filament then… it’s just always what we’ve bought, I never really thought about it!
That's 4x the price that even I get to buy in Canada... Especially for something g that can be made in PLA
I always use cheap pla or petg and have a good time. I often order in bulk (like 10kg) and most of the time arond 15€. I often order sunlu, eryone or elegoo filament directly from their websites
Trivial time-wasting prep before printing.
Well, I completely disagree with you. In my opinion, with our schools resources and the prices of our filament, it makes complete sense to test the fit of our pieces, and it teaches students a very valuable lesson in project preparation. Well worth the time!