I rebuilt one S5 recently. Be careful with the sun gear key (not shown in the video). There is nothing to prevent the sun gear key from rotating (losing the position of a small hole, if your rod has thin tip) or jamming (gub not rotating freely). It just has to be left in place during assembly and held under tension by sun gear spring and then pushed only with a propely fitting rod (a spoke is too thin..)
I've got one just like this that I want to have my LBS build into a wheel... I need to check for defects before spending the money but I've been putting off taking it apart. So this is a really useful video, thanks! For everyone else I would emphasise the importance of getting those timing marks aligned because I've heard that if you don't, the gears will 'bind'. Try and pedal it in this state and you will lunch the cogs in very short order!
Not necessarily true. An "out of time" gear will cause the overdrive to feel like a bag of gravel and hard to ride and usually in that circumstance you do not use it until you re-time it. I have intentionally ridden an out of time hub in overdrive for a distance of 15 miles and guess what? no damage at all, just a hub that felt like a bag of gravel! Further, given that the overdrive is pushed in (therefore optional), you can ride the hub as a simple 3 speed without any worries. How do I know? I have been using & rebuilding these hubs for many years along with A type and F type hubs.
I've got a bicycle with an SA elite AT5. It's from 1987 and has an aluminium hub shell. Do you know if the internals are more or less the same. There's not a lot of info about 5 speeds on the internet. (I would prefer a spoken video version)
You missed out rotating the axle once the stepped planets are in place to check if the timing is correct. It is easy to know because if it is not correctly timed, you will find a"notch" or tight spot. If it rotates smoothly, it is correctly timed, if not, check the planets and re-time as needed. Also, Gear ratio's are as follows; 1st = -33% (Under-driven) 2nd = -21.1% (Under-driven) 3rd = Direct drive (AKA "2nd" on an AW) 4th = +26.6% (Over-driven) 5th = +50% (Over-driven)
When you deal with the company that will dare send you somebody's return they're just not worth dealing with as I'm looking at this video I see I'm making the right choice there is something missing it looks like there was something protruding from the inside of the shaft the one I received did not have nothing like that
![ค้าง (STILL) - GEMINI [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ftxx3hk5vkU/mqdefault.jpg)
wow !!! Its a beautifull video which explain about 5 speed hub to all over the world. Nice man. its a great job... thank you for video making ..
another great video
I rebuilt one S5 recently. Be careful with the sun gear key (not shown in the video). There is nothing to prevent the sun gear key from rotating (losing the position of a small hole, if your rod has thin tip) or jamming (gub not rotating freely). It just has to be left in place during assembly and held under tension by sun gear spring and then pushed only with a propely fitting rod (a spoke is too thin..)
I tried to not mess with it. I keep the push rod threaded to it except for these videos
I've got one just like this that I want to have my LBS build into a wheel... I need to check for defects before spending the money but I've been putting off taking it apart. So this is a really useful video, thanks!
For everyone else I would emphasise the importance of getting those timing marks aligned because I've heard that if you don't, the gears will 'bind'. Try and pedal it in this state and you will lunch the cogs in very short order!
Not necessarily true. An "out of time" gear will cause the overdrive to feel like a bag of gravel and hard to ride and usually in that circumstance you do not use it until you re-time it. I have intentionally ridden an out of time hub in overdrive for a distance of 15 miles and guess what? no damage at all, just a hub that felt like a bag of gravel!
Further, given that the overdrive is pushed in (therefore optional), you can ride the hub as a simple 3 speed without any worries.
How do I know? I have been using & rebuilding these hubs for many years along with A type and F type hubs.
I've got a bicycle with an SA elite AT5. It's from 1987 and has an aluminium hub shell. Do you know if the internals are more or less the same. There's not a lot of info about 5 speeds on the internet. (I would prefer a spoken video version)
I'm soon working on a spoken version. The later 5 speeds were different.
You missed out rotating the axle once the stepped planets are in place to check if the timing is correct. It is easy to know because if it is not correctly timed, you will find a"notch" or tight spot. If it rotates smoothly, it is correctly timed, if not, check the planets and re-time as needed.
Also, Gear ratio's are as follows;
1st = -33% (Under-driven)
2nd = -21.1% (Under-driven)
3rd = Direct drive (AKA "2nd" on an AW)
4th = +26.6% (Over-driven)
5th = +50% (Over-driven)
When I made the newer vocal video I changed the ratio numbers. I went originally by the newer Xrf5 specs.
Just had one delivered from Amazon it's going right back looks like they try to send me somebody's return
When you deal with the company that will dare send you somebody's return they're just not worth dealing with as I'm looking at this video I see I'm making the right choice there is something missing it looks like there was something protruding from the inside of the shaft the one I received did not have nothing like that
The push rod?
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