BUILDING A MODEL STEAM PLANT USING TWO ENGINES - PART #3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Building A Model Steam Plant Using Two Engines - Mounting the Components on the main baseboard. This is not for the feint hearted as I am drilling holes in a very large and very beautiful piece of quality hardwood in order to fix the Steam Engine, Boiler, "Chuff Pot" & Water Tank in place. I describe how I did it and give some cautionary warnings regarding the potential danger of using Battery powered electric hand drills..... IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BECOME A PATRON OF MY TH-cam CHANNEL VIA "PATREON", OR IF YOU WISH TO SUPPORT ME VIA 'PAYPAL" IN ORDER TO HELP ME FUND THE PRODUCTION OF MANY MORE OF THESE SPECIALIST MODEL STEAM ENGINE TUTORIAL VIDEOS - MAINLY TO HELP BEGINNERS IN THIS FASCINATING HOBBY - PLEASE GO TO:
www.paypal.me/k...
or ........ / keithappleton
There are also links to many more of my videos from the MainSteam Website: www.mainsteam.c....
![วันเกิดเธอ (TO YOU) - PHUWIN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ROx1Bj3T0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
That's a very tidy arrangement, and the design and appearance of the turret really fits the group very well. Thanks, Keith, as always.
Still can't get over how beautiful the two engines are. Can't wait to see the final assembly.
Mr. Appleton, a suggestion. On your next visit to a home DIY store, ask them when the next season's carpet samples will be out. As each season comes out they are required to destroy the last season's samples. Mostly they just throw them out but if you ask, they'll save you one or two samples. I use one on my work bench to keep from scratch things and one to keep fitly things, like small nuts and bolts, from escape my massive hands and running away. They know that if they can make it to the floor, they're home free.
It's beautiful now. Wow, excellent work.
I like the sticker on the bottom "This side down".
that really looks sharp MR. Keith !!! you have mad skills my man lol
Very nice job Keith. Looking forward to future vids.
Thinking back on the use of the word "ruler". We did have them as kids in grade school. Usually they were a piece of hard wood with a strip of metal inserted in the side of the 12" ruler as a wear bar. Tho as time progressed companies stopped inserting the wear bar, and then these rulers stopped being wood altogether.
955 DeWalt drill? I have three of three of them and they are brilliant
Thanks for sharing
I think its a good idea using an eyebrow pencil to mark out the plant layout, hmmm not sure Charlette will agree with us though ha ha.
I would be great to see someone build a sweet pea as I can’t find any videos of anyone building one.
I am currently discussing it with Phil at Blackgates Engineering }:-)))
Keith Appleton I hope they do help you with this project. As it would be great to see😃
i needed some new small alligator clips for my soldering stand, i saw some with grippy vinyl ends, only 99p for 2, ideal !, i wont tell you what their primary purpose is...lol
Being in one of the former NA colonies we do not use BA nuts and bolts, except on model castings from the UK. My question is are BA nuts and bolts used in everyday things in the UK, do you just buy them at the local hardware store?
No, they were all replaced by Metric. Although BA threads are generally still used in the building of Miniature Steam Engines these days . . . .
Thanks Keith, I was just imagining what a headache it would be stocking the old Imperial (60 deg. thread), Metric and BA (47.5 deg. thread). So my best bet on buying BA would be your friends at Blackgates?.
Thanks for the videos. I was wondering if you could make the pipe lagging by spinning it on some appropriately sized round bar, glue it together, slide it off and then slide it on to the pipe? might be tricky not to get it accidentally glued on the bar though.
Why not make a video about trying to do it that way ?
Nice try - but what happens when you have to heat both ends of the copper pipe to red heat in order to Silver Solder the pipe unions onto the pipe? . . . . . that's why I do it as I show in my videos .....
I guess one would have to put the unions on to the pipe before doing the string and be very confident in the length of pipe. Just an idea as you said you weren't looking forward to doing it.
Could always use quick release clamps when drilling the underside. I say quick release because a standard C-Clamp with a threaded rod is far to cumbersome...
and mark the beautiful baseboard with clamp marks and scratches ??? ..... I will try that ...... }:-)))
I wouldn't recommend metal on wood. I was just kind of assuming that you have seen more than a few styles of clamps and was trying to avoid telling you something that you already knew. They have plenty of clamps with plenty of types of jaws on them, including a "softer" rubber like material, or plastic, etc etc... If all else fails a chunk of wood between the clamp and work material is an option.
This is not me telling you what to do, personally I never use clamps in these types of operations. I just do not like fiddling around with the damn things. Other people like them because they prefer the feeling of a secure work-piece. Just offering an option is all, you did say that it could be "dangerous" to the part you are working on.
High test isopropyl alcohol (e.g. 99%) will take off permanent marker. U use the stuff all the time to clean RMA flux residue off if circuit cards, and have to re-serialize them after. The alcohol also dissolves the pressure sensitive adhesives in kapton tape, and is an effective degreaser.
and probably ideal for damaging the unknown varnish type that is currently applied to the baseboard . . .
Perhaps, perhaps no. Perhaps useful on metal parts, but a grease pencil (or a eyebrow pencil) works fine on the wood.
Yes, that's why I used it . . . . .
out of curiosity why didn't you take the plaques off the engine and mount the metal engines on the single board?
Because it would devalue the engines drastically as collector's pieces . . . and I think it looks classy as it is .........