I used to work in Ducati dealership back in the day and found exactly the same thing. We cured it using the same method but then slowed the tick over on the bypass screws, reset the throttle potentiometer and reset the CO. Once we knew it was a fix we knew where to drill a 10 mm hole in the top of the airbox on other bikes so we could adjust the throttle stop screw without taking all of the airbox to bits. Finally sealing it with a sealing grommet. 749S's were particularly prone to this.
That really interesting to know. Did you ever see this is on any of ST4S models? I’m having the same stalling issues at lights and bouncing at very low speed which I believe is fuelling.
@markbarton6845 No, this was never an issue with any of the other models. Sounds a bit like a fuelling issue, low pump pressure perhaps due to lower voltage at tickover causing the pump/ filter to give a lower pressure. Have you tried changing the fuel filter? They have been known to split at at join an the metal ones.
Just for clarification. The pooling problem only happens on Ducati's that have shower head injectors I.e. where the injectors were above the throttle valves. Models like the ST4s had the injectors below the throttle valves, 2 injectors per cylinder on the ST4s if I remember correctly.
@@stevenrowley9481 ok thanks that sound like a great suggestion I get Ducati to have a look at it. One thing I would like some knowledge on if you have time is an on going clutch issue. I keep getting loss of pressure on the clutch. I’ve had the clutch and slave replace but it keeps happening. Any ideas would be welcome. To give you an idea…It seem ok in town but once I’ve done some country road and go back to using it their suddenly no pressure. I see no fluid leaking which is very strange.
I was never able to solve this problem in two different official Ducati workshops and other experts. The problem I had was with the motorcycle turning off without warning when idling, usually at a traffic light. There were valves adjusted 4 times, new yuasa battery, gasoline filter, dna air filters, new stator anyway... lots of love and lots of money... thanks for sharing your experience, it all makes sense!
Update from last night- I have been having this issue as I have been rebuilding my 999. I followed the instruction of this video and it solved the stalling issue. I ending up setting the idle to about 1800(more or less) no more stalling. I also watched the fuel build up on the butterfly valve. Upon adjusting the idle screw in there is no more fuel pooling on the plate. Good eye, you saved me hours of troubleshooting
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with the community! Awesome explanation along with taking videos of the before and after. My '06 749 Dark had this problem, I was chasing all the wrong things, but finally able to fix it thanks to you! I know these are race bikes, but I can't believe these left the showroom with the throttle plates adjusted like that. Can't wait to get out on it and just enjoy the ride, without worrying or revving at stop lights to keep it running! Thanks again!
999s was my best bike. It was a dream to ride. She had full termignoni system and the performance cam pack, it was a missile. The Ohlins shocks and the brembo radial brakes, oh boy such a great control... I switched from a 2005 R1 and the Duc was like a bike from the future back then. I still miss my good old trile nine s.
Very interesting. My 999 always suffered from the same problem. Also difficult starting. The immobiliser eventually packed up, so I replaced the ecu with one from a 1098, and copied the mapping from a 999 race bike. Problem went away to a large extent, but it still hunts a little at idle. Thanks for the explanation - very interesting.
Awesome video. I've had my 2002 998 (same motor at the 999) since 2007 and am amazed that I can still learn things about it. Too many people attribute these stalling issues to it being a Ducati, but I always believed it was how they were set up and tuned. You're the first to be able to explain this with evidence, so great job! By the way, I used to have a stalling issue with my bike and also couldn't start it without using the start lever. After a tune-up by someone who actually knew what they were doing, it idles cleanly and I never need to use that start lever either.
Placing the injector above the butterfly valve also good for keeping the throttle body and the plate clean. Placing the injector below the plate can cause carbon buildup on and around the plate (similar to small petrol turbo direct injected car engines where the cam valves needs to be cleaned periodically which isn't an issue for non direct injected ones. tfsi vs t-jet for example.)
Interesting, I changed my ECU to DP for a Termi system and idle speed is too low, I over come that by increasing the rpm with the start lever on the left side, which in effect just opens the throttle a bit more, I don’t want to adjust it as I don’t have a dealer with all the kit like you have set up there and it runs very nice as it is.
Thanks! Sorry can't quite remember exactly how man turns it needed. Wasn't heaps, just get the idle up around 1,600 to 1,800 and that should do the job
I bought a 749 dark, and it stalls at traffic lights etc.. I dont mind it that much but it should be an easy fix then :D Thank you thank you thank you :D
Great explanation! Do you have any advice on setting up the bypass on the S4RS? (Same Engine as the 999 but injectors are spraying behind the throttle bodies) After a full rebuild and cleaning i have issues with stalling while pulling the clutch and closing the throttle. I also have the possibility to run JPDiag if this helps.
Hi, thanks :) Unfortunately we don't have too much specific experience with this exact issue on the S4RS. We did have an S4RS in a few years ago that was running poorly on idle and it did need the A/F mixture adjusted properly. We used our wide band dyno AFR sensors to fix it properly though, so you will need access to something similar to the same. That said it could be something else especially as it has been rebuilt but I would be checking the A/F mixture first.
Brill vid mate. I've been pullint my hair out for the best part of a year replacing every component on my 1098 for these stupid stalling issues. It can idle fine for a few mins and randomly drop off. One run i had a ridiculous ammount of backfire which was a first and plugs going from soaked to normal. Ive literally replacrd next to every component on my bike to no avail. It will idle around 1350-1450 quite steadily I had the trims and tbs balancdd by a specialist etc but it will still randomly die or cut out. Ive noticed quite abit of rev hang during idle revving. Doesnt ever shut off when its moving the bike but only on idling. Had me bricking it at traffic lights a few times. Really at a loss to what thr issue is. Looking at this video though perhaps the 1098 suffers from the same problem? Cant remember the exact injector layout if its the same as the 999. Any insight would help, alot of mechs local to me wont touch it and even the specialist couldn't resolve it.
I was thinking the same when I watched this video. This should affect any bike with shower injectors and opposite-opening butterflies. The 1098 does have shower injectors, just not sure about the butterflies, but it makes sense that it should if the point is to avoid creating turbulence as described in the video.
Hi PL - Shep Sorry for the late reply. We missed this one. Look I am not completely sure with the 1098 as we haven't done the same thing with one. Also we are not aware that it is a common problem with them as it is with the 999 and 749 models. So, my first gut instinct is something else is up, also this issue described in this video does not have the symptom of rev hang that you describe, so I am think it might be something else. But unsure tbh. Would kind of need the bike to diagnose it.
Hi there, I've been running my 2004 999s for years now with no understanding of why it cuts out. I have played around with the idle screw many times which does improve it. I like to keep my idle speed around 1300rpm as the bike overheats quickly with it any higher. My bike has many little things giving trouble these days which keeps me busy......... relays, wiring loom connectors, ecu , cold starting, stator voltage output too high. The list is long but I still like the machine. It's a pity you're not in NZ because I have many questions I would love answers to concerning all the gremlins. Great vid though. Cheers
I had a 2004 999 with a Termi pipe. It did the same thing. Would stall at the lights when i pulled in the clutch. I installed a Power Commander 3 on the bike and it never stalled again.
Hey thanks for the reply. When you made this adjustment on the rear throttle body did it also adjust the front open as well since they are connected ? How many turns of that idle screw to open it more? Do you set the air bypass all the way closed or open 1/4 turn? @@RaceCenterAU
What he is describing the stalling and the mix change from lean to rich and miss fire and backfire sounds for me that the throttle position sensor is defect or wrong adjusted . This TPS is a simpel potentiometer. We drive mostly the in the first 30% of the range the TPS that stress change the resistance in this area and the ECU get wrong values . I think it was at IDLE I150mV and must go smooth to 450mV full throttle .
Do you close the front bleed screw as well. I made the adjustment to the rear and it worked perfectly. I think the front air bleed should.be closed also.simce the throttlebodies are linked
I'd probably be a little careful with that because once you do it, you can't undo it. It would only need to be a very little bit. And if you make it too big, you are also adding more air so that will affect the tune on idle as well and you'd need to adjust the AFR. Also doing that will increase the idle anyway because you are effectively opening the throttle plate anyway, just in a different way. But yeah sure the concept would work and we thought about drilling a tinny. Suggest if you go down that path do it in very small increments. But as you will increase the idle that way anyway, you might just be best increasing the idle as in the video,
@@MotoTingle Sorry buddy. The bike is no longer here so we can't do that. Also, it is not the most simple task, so we do recommend it be done by someone experienced with working on these bikes, and if you are going to do it properly you will need the diagnostic tool to adjust Air Fuel ratio. Sorry we couldn't be of more help
@@RaceCenterAU I appreciate the reply. I have a 999s and the diagnostic tool. Might give it a go. The bikes only just started stalling occasionally. Will do a video on it once time allows. Thanks for getting back to me
Hey dude I hope you got it fixed by now but if not, the screw your looking for is on the side of the throttle body it is an allen wrench type screw that pushed down on the black cable holder (for lack of a better word) you only need to rotate it like 2 or 3mm, very small adjustment to let that fuel go down. You can access it from the battery side of the bike, you can open the airbox and crack it open a 1/2 inch and you can access it.
Ducati 999s , Termignioni, factory ECU. The exhaust has very bad acidic smell, My friends in the car following me say the bike is not running right and smells bad. What could be the problem and also how to fix it?
@@RaceCenterAU Been always like that, around idle or when rpm is falling from high to low, pulling the clutch, stalls, or wants to stall, then backfires and keeps going. I have not raised the idle yet, per this video, but the mixture seems to be very off. How could someone adjust the air fuel ratio on these bikes? It got factory race ECU that came with the bike. I got this bike brand new from Ducati dealer.
@@desmomotodesmomoto2033 Ok. I think firstly you have the same issue that is described in the video and it should be fixed like we have described in the video. The you need the dealer or your mechanic to adjust the fuel ratio via the Ducati tool or equivalent. Then it would be best it dyno tuned but you would need to find someone that you trust knows what they are doing. Where are you located?
I used to work in Ducati dealership back in the day and found exactly the same thing. We cured it using the same method but then slowed the tick over on the bypass screws, reset the throttle potentiometer and reset the CO. Once we knew it was a fix we knew where to drill a 10 mm hole in the top of the airbox on other bikes so we could adjust the throttle stop screw without taking all of the airbox to bits. Finally sealing it with a sealing grommet. 749S's were particularly prone to this.
That really interesting to know. Did you ever see this is on any of ST4S models? I’m having the same stalling issues at lights and bouncing at very low speed which I believe is fuelling.
@markbarton6845 No, this was never an issue with any of the other models.
Sounds a bit like a fuelling issue, low pump pressure perhaps due to lower voltage at tickover causing the pump/ filter to give a lower pressure.
Have you tried changing the fuel filter? They have been known to split at at join an the metal ones.
Just for clarification.
The pooling problem only happens on Ducati's that have shower head injectors I.e. where the injectors were above the throttle valves.
Models like the ST4s had the injectors below the throttle valves, 2 injectors per cylinder on the ST4s if I remember correctly.
@@stevenrowley9481 ok thanks that sound like a great suggestion I get Ducati to have a look at it. One thing I would like some knowledge on if you have time is an on going clutch issue. I keep getting loss of pressure on the clutch. I’ve had the clutch and slave replace but it keeps happening. Any ideas would be welcome. To give you an idea…It seem ok in town but once I’ve done some country road and go back to using it their suddenly no pressure. I see no fluid leaking which is very strange.
@@stevenrowley9481 wow really? I did not know this. Thanks for the information 👍🏻
I was never able to solve this problem in two different official Ducati workshops and other experts. The problem I had was with the motorcycle turning off without warning when idling, usually at a traffic light. There were valves adjusted 4 times, new yuasa battery, gasoline filter, dna air filters, new stator anyway... lots of love and lots of money... thanks for sharing your experience, it all makes sense!
Thanks for watching!
Update from last night- I have been having this issue as I have been rebuilding my 999. I followed the instruction of this video and it solved the stalling issue. I ending up setting the idle to about 1800(more or less) no more stalling. I also watched the fuel build up on the butterfly valve. Upon adjusting the idle screw in there is no more fuel pooling on the plate. Good eye, you saved me hours of troubleshooting
Great to hear this helped and saved you some time. Thanks for the comment and feedback :) Have fun and ride safe!
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with the community! Awesome explanation along with taking videos of the before and after. My '06 749 Dark had this problem, I was chasing all the wrong things, but finally able to fix it thanks to you!
I know these are race bikes, but I can't believe these left the showroom with the throttle plates adjusted like that.
Can't wait to get out on it and just enjoy the ride, without worrying or revving at stop lights to keep it running! Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words mate!
such a beautiful bike when they are running well though!
999s was my best bike. It was a dream to ride. She had full termignoni system and the performance cam pack, it was a missile. The Ohlins shocks and the brembo radial brakes, oh boy such a great control... I switched from a 2005 R1 and the Duc was like a bike from the future back then. I still miss my good old trile nine s.
Wish I never sold mine too :( it was a ripper
Very interesting. My 999 always suffered from the same problem. Also difficult starting. The immobiliser eventually packed up, so I replaced the ecu with one from a 1098, and copied the mapping from a 999 race bike. Problem went away to a large extent, but it still hunts a little at idle. Thanks for the explanation - very interesting.
Absolutely stellar discovery mate! Thanks for the explanation 10/10
Thank mate :)
Awesome video. I've had my 2002 998 (same motor at the 999) since 2007 and am amazed that I can still learn things about it. Too many people attribute these stalling issues to it being a Ducati, but I always believed it was how they were set up and tuned. You're the first to be able to explain this with evidence, so great job! By the way, I used to have a stalling issue with my bike and also couldn't start it without using the start lever. After a tune-up by someone who actually knew what they were doing, it idles cleanly and I never need to use that start lever either.
Awesome thanks for watching mate!
Excellent! My 2003 999 did the same. Thank you for taking the time to explain.
Thanks for watching mate!
Thank you so much, that explains perfecty my problem !
Thanks for the insight.. very well explained 👍🏻
I had work done by the Racecenter . They did a great job and their customer service was great.
Thanks for the kind words!
Placing the injector above the butterfly valve also good for keeping the throttle body and the plate clean. Placing the injector below the plate can cause carbon buildup on and around the plate (similar to small petrol turbo direct injected car engines where the cam valves needs to be cleaned periodically which isn't an issue for non direct injected ones. tfsi vs t-jet for example.)
Very informative, thanks for the upload.
Thanks for watching mate!
That is absolutely brilliant. I had a yellow 999 which had this exact problem. It drove me mad. Wish i had seen your video before i sold it. 👍
Thanks for watching Nick!
Good interesting video 👍
Thanks for the great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid Daz!
Thanks :) really interesting stuff heh. You wanna see how awesome it idles now that it gets fuel haha!
Interesting, I changed my ECU to DP for a Termi system and idle speed is too low, I over come that by increasing the rpm with the start lever on the left side, which in effect just opens the throttle a bit more, I don’t want to adjust it as I don’t have a dealer with all the kit like you have set up there and it runs very nice as it is.
Great video. Do you recall about how many turns to the idle screw you made?
Thanks! Sorry can't quite remember exactly how man turns it needed. Wasn't heaps, just get the idle up around 1,600 to 1,800 and that should do the job
I bought a 749 dark, and it stalls at traffic lights etc.. I dont mind it that much but it should be an easy fix then :D Thank you thank you thank you :D
Thanks for watching!
great video. my 999 does it. thanks mate
Thanks for watching mate!
Great explanation! Do you have any advice on setting up the bypass on the S4RS? (Same Engine as the 999 but injectors are spraying behind the throttle bodies) After a full rebuild and cleaning i have issues with stalling while pulling the clutch and closing the throttle. I also have the possibility to run JPDiag if this helps.
Hi, thanks :) Unfortunately we don't have too much specific experience with this exact issue on the S4RS. We did have an S4RS in a few years ago that was running poorly on idle and it did need the A/F mixture adjusted properly. We used our wide band dyno AFR sensors to fix it properly though, so you will need access to something similar to the same. That said it could be something else especially as it has been rebuilt but I would be checking the A/F mixture first.
My 2006 999 stalls at lights or roundabouts when I have to stop... I'll get the idle fixed. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching James. Best of luck with it mate :)
Brill vid mate. I've been pullint my hair out for the best part of a year replacing every component on my 1098 for these stupid stalling issues. It can idle fine for a few mins and randomly drop off. One run i had a ridiculous ammount of backfire which was a first and plugs going from soaked to normal. Ive literally replacrd next to every component on my bike to no avail. It will idle around 1350-1450 quite steadily I had the trims and tbs balancdd by a specialist etc but it will still randomly die or cut out. Ive noticed quite abit of rev hang during idle revving. Doesnt ever shut off when its moving the bike but only on idling. Had me bricking it at traffic lights a few times. Really at a loss to what thr issue is. Looking at this video though perhaps the 1098 suffers from the same problem? Cant remember the exact injector layout if its the same as the 999. Any insight would help, alot of mechs local to me wont touch it and even the specialist couldn't resolve it.
I was thinking the same when I watched this video. This should affect any bike with shower injectors and opposite-opening butterflies. The 1098 does have shower injectors, just not sure about the butterflies, but it makes sense that it should if the point is to avoid creating turbulence as described in the video.
Hi PL - Shep Sorry for the late reply. We missed this one. Look I am not completely sure with the 1098 as we haven't done the same thing with one. Also we are not aware that it is a common problem with them as it is with the 999 and 749 models. So, my first gut instinct is something else is up, also this issue described in this video does not have the symptom of rev hang that you describe, so I am think it might be something else. But unsure tbh. Would kind of need the bike to diagnose it.
Thanks a lot My 748sp misfarves and stalls, i Got a bump The idle a bit and see if that will help 👍🏻
No problem and Thanks for watching mate! best of luck
Hi there, I've been running my 2004 999s for years now with no understanding of why it cuts out. I have played around with the idle screw many times
which does improve it. I like to keep my idle speed around 1300rpm as the bike overheats quickly with it any higher. My bike has many little things giving
trouble these days which keeps me busy......... relays, wiring loom connectors, ecu , cold starting, stator voltage output too high. The list is long but I still
like the machine. It's a pity you're not in NZ because I have many questions I would love answers to concerning all the gremlins. Great vid though.
Cheers
Thanks Marks. Sure does sound like it's keeping you busy. But I guess nobody ever said pretty Italians are easy! Haha
I had a 2004 999 with a Termi pipe. It did the same thing. Would stall at the lights when i pulled in the clutch. I installed a Power Commander 3 on the bike and it never stalled again.
Hey cool video, would this have anything to do with the bike not reving past 4000 rpm also, that also seems to be a common problem with this bike.
Thanks Mike: ) No I don't that would be related. We are not sure on that one
Hey thanks for the reply. When you made this adjustment on the rear throttle body did it also adjust the front open as well since they are connected ? How many turns of that idle screw to open it more? Do you set the air bypass all the way closed or open 1/4 turn? @@RaceCenterAU
Great explanation. How many rpm is it doing at the higher idle?
Only a couple of hundred rpm. It's meant to idle at 1250 by the book but now it's 1450. So not too high:)
@@RaceCenterAU thanks!
What he is describing the stalling and the mix change from lean to rich and miss fire and backfire sounds for me that the throttle position sensor is defect or wrong adjusted . This TPS is a simpel potentiometer. We drive mostly the in the first 30% of the range the TPS that stress change the resistance in this area and the ECU get wrong values . I think it was at IDLE I150mV and must go smooth to 450mV full throttle .
You're right about the TPS sensor being set properly but wouldn't stop the fuel pooling problem. See my reply to the original author of the video.
Do you close the front bleed screw as well. I made the adjustment to the rear and it worked perfectly.
I think the front air bleed should.be closed also.simce the throttlebodies are linked
Hi, we didn't close the front bleed that shouldn't be necessary! we also did have an AFR reading on front and rear cylinders
I have a 2005 999. no Problems, enough power.
Would you recommend sanding 0.5-1mm of the bottom of the plate to open it a bit more?
I'd probably be a little careful with that because once you do it, you can't undo it. It would only need to be a very little bit. And if you make it too big, you are also adding more air so that will affect the tune on idle as well and you'd need to adjust the AFR. Also doing that will increase the idle anyway because you are effectively opening the throttle plate anyway, just in a different way.
But yeah sure the concept would work and we thought about drilling a tinny. Suggest if you go down that path do it in very small increments.
But as you will increase the idle that way anyway, you might just be best increasing the idle as in the video,
@@RaceCenterAU Thank you
Does that applicable to 848 street fighter? I had encountered engine stall when clutch in coming to a stop.
We are not sure if it does apply to the 848 sorry
Also see bad connection to fuel pump in tank. I'm sure alcohol in petrol is to blame!
My 749s had this issue but now the fuel pump isn’t priming and won’t start any ideas what it is?
Hi mate,
We have actually had a 749s through that had similar symptoms and found a lot of issues in the wiring and with corrosion at earth points
Ca you point out the butterfly adjustment screws please?
There are inside the air box on the side of the throttle bodies.
@@RaceCenterAU Sorry, I was asking if you would kindly do a video and point them out. Maybe show them being adjusted
@@MotoTingle Sorry buddy. The bike is no longer here so we can't do that. Also, it is not the most simple task, so we do recommend it be done by someone experienced with working on these bikes, and if you are going to do it properly you will need the diagnostic tool to adjust Air Fuel ratio. Sorry we couldn't be of more help
@@RaceCenterAU I appreciate the reply. I have a 999s and the diagnostic tool. Might give it a go. The bikes only just started stalling occasionally. Will do a video on it once time allows. Thanks for getting back to me
Hey dude I hope you got it fixed by now but if not, the screw your looking for is on the side of the throttle body it is an allen wrench type screw that pushed down on the black cable holder (for lack of a better word) you only need to rotate it like 2 or 3mm, very small adjustment to let that fuel go down. You can access it from the battery side of the bike, you can open the airbox and crack it open a 1/2 inch and you can access it.
2002? That's an 03 my dude
Where do we find Race Center Dyno?
Hi mate, We are located in Brunswick Melbourne Vic Aus
Ducati 999s , Termignioni, factory ECU.
The exhaust has very bad acidic smell,
My friends in the car following me say the bike is not running right and smells bad.
What could be the problem and also how to fix it?
Could be many things. Has it always been like that or is that something that has developed?
@@RaceCenterAU Been always like that, around idle or when rpm is falling from high to low, pulling the clutch, stalls, or wants to stall, then backfires and keeps going. I have not raised the idle yet, per this video, but the mixture seems to be very off. How could someone adjust the air fuel ratio on these bikes? It got factory race ECU that came with the bike. I got this bike brand new from Ducati dealer.
@@desmomotodesmomoto2033 Ok. I think firstly you have the same issue that is described in the video and it should be fixed like we have described in the video. The you need the dealer or your mechanic to adjust the fuel ratio via the Ducati tool or equivalent. Then it would be best it dyno tuned but you would need to find someone that you trust knows what they are doing. Where are you located?
@@RaceCenterAU Thanks, I am in Toronto Canada.
@@desmomotodesmomoto2033 that's only a short boat ride to Melbourne Australia ;) Wish you the best of luck with it mate :)
Just bought 796.its stalling in low rpn..really embarasing
😪 ᴘʀᴏᴍᴏsᴍ