Hi there, thanks for the video - nice and straight forward. When you're going to put back in your new injection pump and you go to line up the timing marks, does that not change the bolting position/timing position of the main timing gear? Or am I mistaken for how it bolts back up? Thanks
Nope, as long as you know where your old pump mark was, bolt your new one in the same location. 95% of the timing comes from just bolting it in the right location, you can always find tune it with a diesel timing light but those are few and far between, I've always had good success using the old hash marks
Good video and content ! Im about to replace a DB2 pump on my 7.3 and I was wondering when I take the old pump out can I just put the new pump right back in it's place or do I need to mess with the alignment of everything on the timing gear ? If nothing moves after i remove the pump don't I want to just install the new pump the exact way ???
What did you mean when you said you messed with the pump under the top cover, im having trouble with a pump that’s been sitting for a while empty and it really doesn’t want to pump any fuel
Great video! My cold idle plunger is touching the throttle linkage even when it’s retracted and engine is at operating temperature. I’m trying to set the idle a little lower. It’s around 750 but the cold idle solenoid plunger is in the way still. Any thoughts on this…
Cold plunder is slightly adjustable on my unit, one of the two attachment holes is slotted to allow for some forward back movement, loosening those two bolts and you can bring it back 1/4” inch or so
@@highostablegarage that did allow to move the bracket. Unfortunately it was all the way back. So I screwed in the plunger more. Seems pretty sunk in but it got the idle down. I did notice that the spring that pulls the throttle back down is dragging against the cold idle solenoid bracket. I may need to see what I can do about that or if it is routed right. Will lowering the idle rpm’s effect IP timing or in the automatic E4OD , change shift points?
@@briansikes3865 you might have to clock your vacuum shifter slightly depending on how big of an rpm drop you are going for, as for your ip timing a small drop shouldn’t affect the pumps pressure timing noticeably nor the bottoms advance plunger since that only starts working at around 25% throttle, the linkage is flat before it rises so any decrease linkage wise would only let it ride more on the flat.
I have a problem with my F250 IDI keeps stalling out. I have a 1987 F250 6.9. The engine keep stalling out on me for some reason. Starts up great in the cold and runs. When I drive it down the road out of a sudden it starts to stall out sometimes it gets up and goes again and sometimes it just completely dies. And also I'm noticing it kind of revs little high for a second then goes back down when I'm driving down the road don't know if that's part of the same problem or something different. What do you think it could possibly be. I just put a brand new fuel pump sending unit, fuel filter and a new german-made shut off solenoid.
@@highostablegarage you think it's probably just the injection pump nothing to do with injectors? If it's the pump do you think I should just get a rebuild seal kit?
Someone named skylabtech recommended your channel to me , I have a 95 f-250 7.3 with 300 k on it , I have an issue with it starting on cold mornings , below 60 degrees I have to use ether, they said my IP timing is way way off , how do I diagnose it?
I have a 93 f250 7.3 non turbo it idles fine but when driving faster then 30mph or 2k rpm it starts to stall and seems like its not getting enough fuel, and the fuel filter light comes on, i have replaced the filter, checked the fuel pickup, the fuel lift pump was replaced not long ago, im thinking its the injection pump but i dont want to waste the money on it, i have order the parts for a electric lift pump bc it may jdut the new mechanical lift pump is bad any insight on this would be super helpful
Best way would be to put a mechanical pressure gauge between the filter and the injection pump, if you have good pressure and good flow to the pump it’s pretty safe to say your pump is on its way out.
Same as a distributor, clocking it one way or the other moves the injectors release timing pretty much at different points during the engine stroke. General rule for these idis, a little advanced helps with cold starting greatly, just don’t go too much.
Ok thanks I'm gonna have to study that more iv been studying my idi cause I got to pull one head because a glowplug fell in while changing them n little new to deisels thank for the good details video
Awesome tip. 👍🏼 I took my pump off but unfortunately I took the front gear off with it so now I have to make sure I install it in its correct timing and I don’t know how to do that :/
@@Wilsonc263 I used a spare cap I had. I bought a shrader valve that is threaded on the mounting side and has a nut in it so that it can be attached to the fuel cap via the appropriate sized hole that was drilled in it. Then I regulate the air pressure in my air compressor to about 8psi so it will maintain that pressure. Then I crank the engine. I never crank longer then 30 or 40 seconds letting the starter cool off in between. This method assists getting fuel to the injectors.
don't worry about 150 he's just laughing on the asphalt some of us like them to smile as much as they can ....i love it. Thanks 🙏
Gotta love the hammer action on the IP.
Thanks man, now I'm more confident in doing this myself
You're a cool guy, thanks man!
Thank you for this, trying to work on my 7.3 idi turbo swapped 93 f350. Diagnose a bunch of problems after the swap
This is a great vid I have never done the injection pump on one. It have done the tuber ish return hoses a few time
Hi there, thanks for the video - nice and straight forward. When you're going to put back in your new injection pump and you go to line up the timing marks, does that not change the bolting position/timing position of the main timing gear? Or am I mistaken for how it bolts back up? Thanks
Nope, as long as you know where your old pump mark was, bolt your new one in the same location. 95% of the timing comes from just bolting it in the right location, you can always find tune it with a diesel timing light but those are few and far between, I've always had good success using the old hash marks
Buen video yo también tengo el mismo ploblema con un motor 6.9 al arrancar también Kieran cambiar la bomba donde se consigue
Good video and content ! Im about to replace a DB2 pump on my 7.3 and I was wondering when I take the old pump out can I just put the new pump right back in it's place or do I need to mess with the alignment of everything on the timing gear ? If nothing moves after i remove the pump don't I want to just install the new pump the exact way ???
So it’s a good video but may I ask were do you get the parts for it
What did u mess with on the inside of the pump?
Does the slotted part of the injection pump where it bolts to the the timing gear have to aligned with the dowel
What did you mean when you said you messed with the pump under the top cover, im having trouble with a pump that’s been sitting for a while empty and it really doesn’t want to pump any fuel
Give me a time stamp on the video and I’ll be able to help you out better, been awhile since I made this video haha
No such thing as loud for no reason.Great video.
I think he made a great video. Thanks
Great video! My cold idle plunger is touching the throttle linkage even when it’s retracted and engine is at operating temperature. I’m trying to set the idle a little lower. It’s around 750 but the cold idle solenoid plunger is in the way still. Any thoughts on this…
Cold plunder is slightly adjustable on my unit, one of the two attachment holes is slotted to allow for some forward back movement, loosening those two bolts and you can bring it back 1/4” inch or so
@@highostablegarage 😮 on it !
Good luck let me know how you make out!
@@highostablegarage that did allow to move the bracket. Unfortunately it was all the way back. So I screwed in the plunger more. Seems pretty sunk in but it got the idle down. I did notice that the spring that pulls the throttle back down is dragging against the cold idle solenoid bracket. I may need to see what I can do about that or if it is routed right. Will lowering the idle rpm’s effect IP timing or in the automatic E4OD , change shift points?
@@briansikes3865 you might have to clock your vacuum shifter slightly depending on how big of an rpm drop you are going for, as for your ip timing a small drop shouldn’t affect the pumps pressure timing noticeably nor the bottoms advance plunger since that only starts working at around 25% throttle, the linkage is flat before it rises so any decrease linkage wise would only let it ride more on the flat.
I have a problem with my F250 IDI keeps stalling out. I have a 1987 F250 6.9. The engine keep stalling out on me for some reason. Starts up great in the cold and runs. When I drive it down the road out of a sudden it starts to stall out sometimes it gets up and goes again and sometimes it just completely dies. And also I'm noticing it kind of revs little high for a second then goes back down when I'm driving down the road don't know if that's part of the same problem or something different. What do you think it could possibly be. I just put a brand new fuel pump sending unit, fuel filter and a new german-made shut off solenoid.
Sounds like either air is getting in before the injection pump or your injection pump is starting to act bad
@@highostablegarage you think it's probably just the injection pump nothing to do with injectors? If it's the pump do you think I should just get a rebuild seal kit?
Thank you for the video
Next week we change the starter.
Someone named skylabtech recommended your channel to me , I have a 95 f-250 7.3 with 300 k on it , I have an issue with it starting on cold mornings , below 60 degrees I have to use ether, they said my IP timing is way way off , how do I diagnose it?
I have a 93 f250 7.3 non turbo it idles fine but when driving faster then 30mph or 2k rpm it starts to stall and seems like its not getting enough fuel, and the fuel filter light comes on, i have replaced the filter, checked the fuel pickup, the fuel lift pump was replaced not long ago, im thinking its the injection pump but i dont want to waste the money on it, i have order the parts for a electric lift pump bc it may jdut the new mechanical lift pump is bad any insight on this would be super helpful
Best way would be to put a mechanical pressure gauge between the filter and the injection pump, if you have good pressure and good flow to the pump it’s pretty safe to say your pump is on its way out.
So if u leave the housing an gear on there's no way to get it out of time?
Correct, as long as you remove the pump from the back of the gear and not the two bolts that hold the top gear cover on the gear timing cannot change
What if I did take the housing off, doesn't it just run the pump....
@@mikesullivan329 i guess but if u ever had to line it up an time it may would be off I wouldn't pull the whole assembly
Fast advance module what its that for. ?
Different set ups with 6.9 and 7.3 as far as pumps bolting on. Husband is pulling one now on a 7.3.......was going to. 6.9 was nothing to do.
Hey man why didn’t you replace the injectors at the same time?
@@jadinzack9271 I think because the IP is the most common issue on the fuel system, I've had to replace a few. (On different trucks)
Help me understand the Hammer calibration at the end........ (-: Great video btw
Good video.
Is there a gasket on the front cover of the timing gear housing?
Factory is either an o ring or a gasket can’t remember. 9 times out of 10 though it’s now silicone instead though
@@highostablegarage Thank you bro. I had a silicone seal and now made a custom cut Dr. Pepper cardboard box gasket after pump was turned up.😆🥴
@@RIDDYxMUSICH haha that’s awesome! I have a few Mountain Dew gaskets on my rigs haha 😂
@@highostablegarage LolOL!% YA!!!!
me personally maybe i was doing something wrong but i had to unbolt the intake manifold to the injection pump out
What stater and battery is that Good God Almighty!
How long does this take to do? If you know what you’re doing?
I would say roughly 2 hours with all the swapping
Where are you located?
I didn't really understand why the static timing marks were there
Same as a distributor, clocking it one way or the other moves the injectors release timing pretty much at different points during the engine stroke. General rule for these idis, a little advanced helps with cold starting greatly, just don’t go too much.
Ok thanks I'm gonna have to study that more iv been studying my idi cause I got to pull one head because a glowplug fell in while changing them n little new to deisels thank for the good details video
@@thomaslockley945 glad I could help, i I know what you mean, the glow plug system on these engines are shorta goofy haha xD
Just put a schrader valve on a gas cap and put about 7 psi air in the tank. Make bleeding a breeze.
Awesome tip. 👍🏼 I took my pump off but unfortunately I took the front gear off with it so now I have to make sure I install it in its correct timing and I don’t know how to do that :/
@jimschaffroth5652 just drill a hole in the gas cap and put some air in the tank will prime the system?
@@Wilsonc263
I used a spare cap I had. I bought a shrader valve that is threaded on the mounting side and has a nut in it so that it can be attached to the fuel cap via the appropriate sized hole that was drilled in it. Then I regulate the air pressure in my air compressor to about 8psi so it will maintain that pressure. Then I crank the engine. I never crank longer then 30 or 40 seconds letting the starter cool off in between. This method assists getting fuel to the injectors.
@@jimschaffroth5652 thank you for that info I’ll give it a shot.
@@Wilsonc263if you do this with a factory style manual lift pump you can rupture the diaphragm and fill your engine with diesel
Put some gas on a rag will help spead the bleeding process
very true
How to burn up a good starter……😟
It’s an aftermarket gear reduction unit, should take it like a champ haha
Starters dont burn up
@@psd28Oh yes they do lol
@@yeetandskeet then why is mine still working
@@psd28yea actually nothing ever goes bad on this engine. Source: mine hasn’t
Like how goldfish are immortal. Source: mine is alive
looks like that took a spell...
Thanks man good video
Thanks I appreciate it!