Good timing I just recieved my Queenbee CNC XYZ upgrade kit yesterday and your video help fill in the gaps thank you so much for making this build a whole lot easier the only thing i dont have is the rail gap sets you have
Great vid as always! You , as always, explain and demonstrate things so well! I best start saving up for my Queen bee upgrade! at least I'm in Australia so delivery wont completely kill me!
Excellent video. My 2 biggest complaints with this upgrade are the lack of a second bearing set for the Y rails. I feel it would add even more rigidity which will help cutting aluminum and harder materials. The second complaint would be the mounting of the nut blocks. Would definitely like to see a solid block in there vs. all the pieced together spacers leaving room for flex and so on. Hopefully as time passes these small things will be adressed before I pull the trigger on this fpr my workbee. Look forward to more videos of your machine in action.
I'm about to start to install my queenbee upgrade + tingle tension. I'm hoping for more rigidity so I can be a bit more aggressive with my cuts and reduce vibration. 🤞I'd eventually like to also upgrade to closed loop steppers.
Great build! Except I would not rely on a tape measure for squareness... Although final alignment should involve cutting four holes at extreme extent in two sheets, and flipping the top sheet over. Dowels should still slide through all four holes. Adjust until they do.
Hi. Thanks for the video, a great help. Just one small issue, building the Z plate, the video calls for 2 x 35mm m5 bolts, 4 x 9mm spacers and 4 x 1mm shims. Something is wrong, the bolts will not reach the nylock nuts. Should it be longer bolts or should it be smaller spacers? Hope you can help, thanks.
Hello friend, I would like to be able to purchase the file for the upper spindle clamp but it is not in your description where I can purchase it, thank you
I did the math on the y axis nut blocks and I got 20mm and then 2 mini shims....is there any reason 1 20mm spacer can't be used instead of one 9mm, 3 3mm, and 2 1mm spacers, and the 2 mini shims of course?
Hey Josh, great work on this upgrade. A question regarding the Spindle, Have you grounded yours, and if so how. Seems to be a lot of people do and don't do it. Cheers Bud.
hello great video:-). Will the queenbee upgrade need bigger motors? can i use the orginal from ooznest?. And can i put larger spindel on it, i now have the 1,5kw aircooled one?.
Great video, terrible music. I’ve almost finished a Makerstore CNC router kit and I’m not at all happy with the delrin wheels, soooo…. I’m EXTREMELY tempted to go the whole hog and get this kit. The supplier is only 2 hours down the road from me. Subscribed!
Love the upgrade but there is one thing i don’t understand. Why when doing the upgrade wouldn’t you get rid of the delrim nutblock and replace them with bearings?
Do you mean a ball screw system? If so the issue is it doesn't quite fit in-between then cbeam so it requires a bit of a redesign. I know some options are underway by people.
@@IllDoItMyself Please let us know when done, thanks a lot, very appreciate (.step or F360 files will be better :-) if we need to modify them ). No supports for drag chains and switches on the kit ? The 3D printed guides for rail mount are in the kit or did you create it by yourself ?
Awesome video! What kind of hex drivers are you using? They look like a nice set. You should throw up some affiliate links, I'm sure plenty would buy them through it to say thanks!
Hi, I currently have the 1500mm x 1000mm workbee using a makita router. Would this be a good upgrade to do if I want to use a water cooled spindle? I was told the water cooled spindle could be too heavy for my machine.
What exactly do you expect from this. Is that old version not stiff due to the wheels? I understand the lead screw precision, good rails though should pay. Especially the tensioned Screw would be the feature. Without ever having touched a bee nor a linear rail... the wheels solution -seems- very smart to me. Maybee I am an old scateboy. But just the ability of fixing, adding better wheels, adding more wheels... and with an heavy mill that should be stable. shapeoko also drive with less flexible, und more sustainable broader belt systems, this might be easier to reassamble than the whole kit.
@@erwinz5926 The tensioning of the wheels is incredibly finicky and via eccentric nuts. Even if you're lucky enough to get them all tensioned the same, they crack or wear out and need to be replaced which means you'll then go through the tensioning cycle again. I've had my machine 6 months and didn't really start using it until last week and I've already got 4 wheels that need to be replaced. The wheels work fine on a 3D printer, I've got hundreds of hours on my Ender 3 V2, but for a high load\high stress situation like a CNC router I don't think they're a really good option.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Shortly after that comment I upgraded mine to HGR15 rails, using the Piranha CNC plate design Makersupply.dk posted on OpenBuild's website. I used 3/8" aluminum instead of the 1/4" or 6mm they specify, and I'm absolutely in love. I can cut 140in/min with a 1/4" bit using my Dewalt 611 with no issues. It was a huge game changer. Now I just need to upgrade the 8mm lead screws to 12mm lead screws or 16mm ball screws.
Very well done Josh, great video. I'm sure many of our customers will appreciate it. Enjoy your new QueenBee!
any coupon code on shipping $889 for shipping is crazy. Im ready to buy one
Nice work josh!!
Where was this video a few months ago... lol. Great build guide that will help many for sure.
Good timing I just recieved my Queenbee CNC XYZ upgrade kit yesterday and your video help fill in the gaps thank you so much for making this build a whole lot easier the only thing i dont have is the rail gap sets you have
How many time for delivery (where are you based, if possible to know, of course)? Thanks
waiting for report!
Great vid as always! You , as always, explain and demonstrate things so well! I best start saving up for my Queen bee upgrade! at least I'm in Australia so delivery wont completely kill me!
My kit didn't include the 3d printed alignment blocks, is there an stl available somewhere that I can print some off?
Excellent video. My 2 biggest complaints with this upgrade are the lack of a second bearing set for the Y rails. I feel it would add even more rigidity which will help cutting aluminum and harder materials. The second complaint would be the mounting of the nut blocks. Would definitely like to see a solid block in there vs. all the pieced together spacers leaving room for flex and so on. Hopefully as time passes these small things will be adressed before I pull the trigger on this fpr my workbee. Look forward to more videos of your machine in action.
I'm about to start to install my queenbee upgrade + tingle tension. I'm hoping for more rigidity so I can be a bit more aggressive with my cuts and reduce vibration. 🤞I'd eventually like to also upgrade to closed loop steppers.
can you please add the STL for the 3D printed alignment blocks for placing the linear rails?
I was looking for the same thing, Terry, but it doesn't look like it's posted here yet. Did you ever find it?
Sorry I will get this posted
mmf.io/o/152985
@@IllDoItMyself Thank you!
Great build! Except I would not rely on a tape measure for squareness... Although final alignment should involve cutting four holes at extreme extent in two sheets, and flipping the top sheet over. Dowels should still slide through all four holes. Adjust until they do.
Yes totally. That needs it's own video if you ask me!
Hi. Thanks for the video, a great help. Just one small issue, building the Z plate, the video calls for 2 x 35mm m5 bolts, 4 x 9mm spacers and 4 x 1mm shims. Something is wrong, the bolts will not reach the nylock nuts. Should it be longer bolts or should it be smaller spacers? Hope you can help, thanks.
Hi, what’s the reason for using the drop in T’s and not the normal T’s?
Convinience??
So this is a WorkBee that is upgraded to a QueenBee ?
Hello! Has the machine gotten better? has it become more stable? is it worth updating? there is a big difference?
Wanted to ask: How's rigidity of machine
?
greetings where to buy the file for the spindle clamp of the upper part
Hello friend, I would like to be able to purchase the file for the upper spindle clamp but it is not in your description where I can purchase it, thank you
Great video - where did you get the little 3D printed alignment blocks ?
I'm interested too.
how do you have the cable chain mounted to the large gantry plate there?
I did the math on the y axis nut blocks and I got 20mm and then 2 mini shims....is there any reason 1 20mm spacer can't be used instead of one 9mm, 3 3mm, and 2 1mm spacers, and the 2 mini shims of course?
Hey Josh, great work on this upgrade. A question regarding the Spindle, Have you grounded yours, and if so how. Seems to be a lot of people do and don't do it. Cheers Bud.
Is the cut quality better with these linear rails?
Certainly is. I'm working on some videos to show the capabilities.
Great screen set. Please provide a link to download this and the macro. Thanks
Sure thing it's available in the description of this video. th-cam.com/video/SbNbo6YV8nw/w-d-xo.html
hello great video:-). Will the queenbee upgrade need bigger motors? can i use the orginal from ooznest?. And can i put larger spindel on it, i now have the 1,5kw aircooled one?.
Great video, but I think you left out the bottom Rail on the Y-axis
The Queenbee from cnc3d only uses 1 rail on each side of the y-axis with the option of adding another rail.
Hi Josh, Whereabouts did you get the file for the 3D Printed Spindle mount from? Keen to print one for my machine cheers!
Great video, terrible music.
I’ve almost finished a Makerstore CNC router kit and I’m not at all happy with the delrin wheels, soooo…. I’m EXTREMELY tempted to go the whole hog and get this kit. The supplier is only 2 hours down the road from me.
Subscribed!
where can I get a set of those 3D printed guides?
they were not in my kit
do you have a link for the spindle clamp that you printed ? thanks
Would it be a good idea to use loc tite on the t nuts?
You can however with the properties of the aluminum it's not really going to be an issue.
Is it the same to bulkman 3D queenbee, but the support and connector not availiable of tank line and limit, can you share the stl for 3D printer.
Are they 6mm spacers instead of 3mm spacers on the Y Axis Delrin blocks? Those 3m spacers look like 6mm
Love the upgrade but there is one thing i don’t understand. Why when doing the upgrade wouldn’t you get rid of the delrim nutblock and replace them with bearings?
Do you mean a ball screw system? If so the issue is it doesn't quite fit in-between then cbeam so it requires a bit of a redesign. I know some options are underway by people.
@@IllDoItMyself Okay so the c-beam hasn't got enough depth to accomodate such a bearing?
What is the reasoning behind using 3- 3mm spacers and not another 9mm spacer?
At the time of this no spacers were included so I had to use only what was available from the teardown.
May I ask where you go the extra spindle mounting bracket you show in video? Be great to get a link Thanks
Hi. Did you make some chips with new configuration ? How it works ?
put drag chain stl on thingiverse?
Ah yes I will get that up!
@@IllDoItMyself Please let us know when done, thanks a lot, very appreciate (.step or F360 files will be better :-) if we need to modify them ).
No supports for drag chains and switches on the kit ?
The 3D printed guides for rail mount are in the kit or did you create it by yourself ?
@@IllDoItMyself Please let us know when you get the files uploaded. Thanks!
Hi, wanted to ask what is the deiffernece between 1. ooznest 2. openbuilds and 3. bulkman since they all display the workbee ?
What motors do you recommend for this upgrade? I still have the original nema 23 175oz 2.00A motors on my Ooznest Workbee.
www.teknic.com/model-info/CPM-SDSK-2310S-ELS/
:)
So queenbee is basically thicker aluminum plates and linear rails?
Yes but there are some design changes that give you some added z height and stiffen the x axis.
@@IllDoItMyself I'm just wondering if it would be faster to make everything here in the US, than wait for the delivery.
Great videos btw.
@@helLf1nGerTA I ask that same question every time a make an order from the USA.
Hi thanks for a good video. I'm curious about the Workbee, are you still using it?
Sure am!!
Awesome video! What kind of hex drivers are you using? They look like a nice set. You should throw up some affiliate links, I'm sure plenty would buy them through it to say thanks!
hey josh what size is this machine? 1015?
This one is the 1010
Hi, I currently have the 1500mm x 1000mm workbee using a makita router. Would this be a good upgrade to do if I want to use a water cooled spindle? I was told the water cooled spindle could be too heavy for my machine.
Hey Josh, Are you happy with your machine? I'm thinking of getting one. Was also looking at using the makita.
I'm very happy with it still yet to run into any issues 12 months in now.
I'd suggest not using that type of t-nut sometimes they dont spin.
If you take your time you can feel when they have spun. If not you unscrew and screw them in again and they will spin.
Man I want this, but it's hard to justify the cost, it's almost what I paid for my original kit.
What exactly do you expect from this. Is that old version not stiff due to the wheels? I understand the lead screw precision, good rails though should pay. Especially the tensioned Screw would be the feature. Without ever having touched a bee nor a linear rail... the wheels solution -seems- very smart to me. Maybee I am an old scateboy. But just the ability of fixing, adding better wheels, adding more wheels... and with an heavy mill that should be stable. shapeoko also drive with less flexible, und more sustainable broader belt systems, this might be easier to reassamble than the whole kit.
@@erwinz5926 The tensioning of the wheels is incredibly finicky and via eccentric nuts. Even if you're lucky enough to get them all tensioned the same, they crack or wear out and need to be replaced which means you'll then go through the tensioning cycle again. I've had my machine 6 months and didn't really start using it until last week and I've already got 4 wheels that need to be replaced.
The wheels work fine on a 3D printer, I've got hundreds of hours on my Ender 3 V2, but for a high load\high stress situation like a CNC router I don't think they're a really good option.
Just make one yourself with 12-19mm alu plates.
@@nickr8829 Totally agree. My workbee breaks wheels on a regular basis. Seems to me, you either have them sloppy, or you keep replacing them.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Shortly after that comment I upgraded mine to HGR15 rails, using the Piranha CNC plate design Makersupply.dk posted on OpenBuild's website. I used 3/8" aluminum instead of the 1/4" or 6mm they specify, and I'm absolutely in love. I can cut 140in/min with a 1/4" bit using my Dewalt 611 with no issues.
It was a huge game changer. Now I just need to upgrade the 8mm lead screws to 12mm lead screws or 16mm ball screws.
Zed, not zee.
Lol depends on your country mate.
this coupler flexes a lot, it can cause inaccuracy.
When installed properly it actually performed really well for me. Make sure there is no axial load on the coupler.
Please adjust your mic volume so we don't have to turn our speaker or headset volume waaaayyyyyy up.