If I ever go large scale with my crops, I'll more than likely switch over to tape. Would be awesome to be able to run a garden market one day! Great info Adam. Keep at it brother!
Sam, good to hear from you! Fully agreed, it would be great fun to run a stall at a garden or farmer's market -- imagine all the sampling you'd get to do from other stalls. Find that salsa stall and get started lol. And you have the right of it, drip tape is generally the better option for large scale in most cases, at least if the land is flat. Fish on brother!
Is a 12inch emitter spacing good for bell peppers? I'm a novice farmer but i want to attempt it on 1000 bell peppers with a planting distance of 18 inches
For many bell pepper cultivars, 12" emitter spacing with 18" spaced plants is going to give good results -- at first glance it might seem like the 12" spacing would be wasting water dripping in between plants, but many popular bell pepper cultivars can have pretty large root zones that would benefit from 12" spacing, basically keeping the entire row moist to allow for full root growth.
Thank you! There is definitely always lots to learn in irrigation, even for seasoned professionals. We don't have any modeling software of our own, but we do use some, particularly when sizing a venturi injector. We'll use various calculators for things like friction loss as well.
Are you looking to go with a drip tape system specifically? If so, at 30 trees I'd go with 15 Mil thick tape -- it's the most durable tape since it has the thickest walls, and at 30 trees it's unlikely you'd need so much that it would be cost prohibitive. I can confirm drip tape often makes a good choice in orchards, particularly those that won't always need supplemental irrigation, as tape is easy to remove and is often used for temporary applications. If you were thinking of what I'd use in general, a "tree ring" setup is also good for orchards -- tree rings are simply 1/4" drip line formed into rings that go around the tree. This delivers water to all sides of the tree's root zone and 1/4" drip line is a little more durable than drip tape, which can be handy if you're not always on hand to make repairs or if you plan to keep the system for longer. If you haven't bumped into yet, here is a link to a video we did that goes over the tree rings -- I'm also happy to answer any questions that come up :). Here is that video link: th-cam.com/video/NkGTXrGkcRM/w-d-xo.html
@@edmonpierre4562 It definitely could be, but if the blades are high enough up and the drip line secured to the ground, it is possible to mow over it without causing damage. With that said, damage is definitely possible, but drip line and tubing are fortunately very easy to repair (just use a coupling to splice in a new length). Drip line is also often used under a layer of mulch, which can help significantly reduce the chance of damaging it with landscape maintenance equipment.
If I have 3 beds in a row (two raised and the last one is in-ground), do I have to run 1/2 hose out to each bed or can I run 1/4 drip line across the beds and connect the beds together with 1/4 hose?
In most cases you'd want to run the 1/2" tubing to each bed -- due to its smaller diameter, 1/4" tubing incurs more friction loss than larger diameter tubing. With short runs in a bed this is no problem, but too long (or too much water going through it) will quickly cause high levels of pressure loss in 1/4" tubing. With that said, if the total distance would be reasonably short (less than 30') and the volume of watering going through on the lower side (less than 30 GPH) it could be done with 1/4". I'd probably still recommend 1/2", but the physics would allow you to use 1/4" if you're within those thresholds :)
@@dripdepot thank you. I just ordered everything last night and afterwards I thought, wait a minute...maybe I can't run it this way and now I'm not sure if I'll have enough 1/2 hose. In one direction from the main supply spigot, there's two 24'x4' raised beds side by side followed by a 3' path, then two 4'x4' raised beds side by side and on the other side of those is a triangle shaped in-ground bed about 10 ft long.
And then going the other direction from the main is three 8'x4' raised beds in a single row with 3' paths between, a 4'x4' raised bed another 3' path and another triangle shaped 8' long in-ground bed.
@@kimokahikolekalihi It could be tight depending on how far the beds are from the water source -- if you do end up having to use 1/4" tubing between the beds, at least it would likely only be on the last bed in the series, which would help reduce the chance of any problems.
I’ve recently installed a drip irrigation system in my landscape garden but I think it is giving my 2 rose bushes too much. Is there a way to take emitters off and plug hole in distribution tubing?
Are you using 1/4" barbed drippers? If so, you bet, all you'd need is what's known as a "goof plug." The 1/4" version is item 1176 on our site (just put 1176 in search bar and it will come right up). If you're using emitters other than button drippers, just let me know and I'd be happy to let you know how to remove them and plug it up :)
@@Mindy-s-channel Perfect, in that case a goof plug would do the trick for you -- you can pop the plug in right where the emitter connects to the line (1/4" or in the wall of 1/2" or larger). The goof plug is a little bit bigger than the barb on a dripper so does a good job of filling the hole. When you take out your dripper, try to do it when the tubing is colder (early morning or later in the evening) and pull it straight out as much as you can -- this will help prevent the hole from stretching too large :)
Randy, I'd be happy to assist you here if you had some questions -- if you prefer email, you can fire us off an email from this link: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- we have actual people replying to emails all day and quite a few of them come to my in-box as well. During this time of year, the only day we're closed is Saturday so don't hesitate to reach out :)
I'm new to drip tape. Trying to irrigate a small garden. I have low water pressure. Just been trying to figure out all the parts. I'm growing onions, beans potatoes just want the drip for the row crops. What do you recommend?
@@randyobrien6384 Randy, you're definitely on the right track with drip tape, it works great for row crops of the type you mentioned -- do you know how low of pressure you have at the water source? Might be worth checking to see if you'll need a pressure regulator or not (drip tape prefers very low pressure, at 10 to 15 PSI). I've got two quick resources that can help you determine everything you need -- first, here is a link to a video guide we did for a row crop system that will likely be very similar to yours, it's a row crop system running from a hose bib: th-cam.com/video/oSI_rSTAZjQ/w-d-xo.html Next here is a link to our row crop kits -- they have everything needed to make a complete system, so you could find one that's close (mostly in regards to total length of mainline tubing and total length of tape to cover your rows) and slightly modify it to make a good match -- the parts in these kits are the same we used in the video: You're also more than welcome to ask any questions that come up -- I reply to questions here during office hours and would be happy to help :)
If I ever go large scale with my crops, I'll more than likely switch over to tape. Would be awesome to be able to run a garden market one day! Great info Adam. Keep at it brother!
Sam, good to hear from you! Fully agreed, it would be great fun to run a stall at a garden or farmer's market -- imagine all the sampling you'd get to do from other stalls. Find that salsa stall and get started lol.
And you have the right of it, drip tape is generally the better option for large scale in most cases, at least if the land is flat. Fish on brother!
Is a 12inch emitter spacing good for bell peppers?
I'm a novice farmer but i want to attempt it on 1000 bell peppers with a planting distance of 18 inches
For many bell pepper cultivars, 12" emitter spacing with 18" spaced plants is going to give good results -- at first glance it might seem like the 12" spacing would be wasting water dripping in between plants, but many popular bell pepper cultivars can have pretty large root zones that would benefit from 12" spacing, basically keeping the entire row moist to allow for full root growth.
Excellent video. lot to learns. Do you have any modeling software
Thank you! There is definitely always lots to learn in irrigation, even for seasoned professionals.
We don't have any modeling software of our own, but we do use some, particularly when sizing a venturi injector. We'll use various calculators for things like friction loss as well.
What do you recommend for a backyard orchard, with a little over 30 fruit trees?
Are you looking to go with a drip tape system specifically? If so, at 30 trees I'd go with 15 Mil thick tape -- it's the most durable tape since it has the thickest walls, and at 30 trees it's unlikely you'd need so much that it would be cost prohibitive. I can confirm drip tape often makes a good choice in orchards, particularly those that won't always need supplemental irrigation, as tape is easy to remove and is often used for temporary applications.
If you were thinking of what I'd use in general, a "tree ring" setup is also good for orchards -- tree rings are simply 1/4" drip line formed into rings that go around the tree. This delivers water to all sides of the tree's root zone and 1/4" drip line is a little more durable than drip tape, which can be handy if you're not always on hand to make repairs or if you plan to keep the system for longer.
If you haven't bumped into yet, here is a link to a video we did that goes over the tree rings -- I'm also happy to answer any questions that come up :). Here is that video link: th-cam.com/video/NkGTXrGkcRM/w-d-xo.html
@@dripdepot I'm interested in the ring system. I use a ride on lawn mower to cut the grass. Will that be a problem for the tubes/lines?
@@edmonpierre4562 It definitely could be, but if the blades are high enough up and the drip line secured to the ground, it is possible to mow over it without causing damage. With that said, damage is definitely possible, but drip line and tubing are fortunately very easy to repair (just use a coupling to splice in a new length).
Drip line is also often used under a layer of mulch, which can help significantly reduce the chance of damaging it with landscape maintenance equipment.
If I have 3 beds in a row (two raised and the last one is in-ground), do I have to run 1/2 hose out to each bed or can I run 1/4 drip line across the beds and connect the beds together with 1/4 hose?
In most cases you'd want to run the 1/2" tubing to each bed -- due to its smaller diameter, 1/4" tubing incurs more friction loss than larger diameter tubing. With short runs in a bed this is no problem, but too long (or too much water going through it) will quickly cause high levels of pressure loss in 1/4" tubing. With that said, if the total distance would be reasonably short (less than 30') and the volume of watering going through on the lower side (less than 30 GPH) it could be done with 1/4". I'd probably still recommend 1/2", but the physics would allow you to use 1/4" if you're within those thresholds :)
@@dripdepot thank you. I just ordered everything last night and afterwards I thought, wait a minute...maybe I can't run it this way and now I'm not sure if I'll have enough 1/2 hose. In one direction from the main supply spigot, there's two 24'x4' raised beds side by side followed by a 3' path, then two 4'x4' raised beds side by side and on the other side of those is a triangle shaped in-ground bed about 10 ft long.
And then going the other direction from the main is three 8'x4' raised beds in a single row with 3' paths between, a 4'x4' raised bed another 3' path and another triangle shaped 8' long in-ground bed.
@@kimokahikolekalihi It could be tight depending on how far the beds are from the water source -- if you do end up having to use 1/4" tubing between the beds, at least it would likely only be on the last bed in the series, which would help reduce the chance of any problems.
I’ve recently installed a drip irrigation system in my landscape garden but I think it is giving my 2 rose bushes too much. Is there a way to take emitters off and plug hole in distribution tubing?
Are you using 1/4" barbed drippers? If so, you bet, all you'd need is what's known as a "goof plug." The 1/4" version is item 1176 on our site (just put 1176 in search bar and it will come right up). If you're using emitters other than button drippers, just let me know and I'd be happy to let you know how to remove them and plug it up :)
@@dripdepot thanks. Yes I’m using 1/4 inch barbed drippers.
@@Mindy-s-channel Perfect, in that case a goof plug would do the trick for you -- you can pop the plug in right where the emitter connects to the line (1/4" or in the wall of 1/2" or larger). The goof plug is a little bit bigger than the barb on a dripper so does a good job of filling the hole. When you take out your dripper, try to do it when the tubing is colder (early morning or later in the evening) and pull it straight out as much as you can -- this will help prevent the hole from stretching too large :)
@@dripdepot thanks. Will do
Spot on.
I been trying to contact for information with no luck.
Randy, I'd be happy to assist you here if you had some questions -- if you prefer email, you can fire us off an email from this link: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- we have actual people replying to emails all day and quite a few of them come to my in-box as well. During this time of year, the only day we're closed is Saturday so don't hesitate to reach out :)
I'm new to drip tape. Trying to irrigate a small garden. I have low water pressure. Just been trying to figure out all the parts. I'm growing onions, beans potatoes just want the drip for the row crops. What do you recommend?
@@randyobrien6384 Randy, you're definitely on the right track with drip tape, it works great for row crops of the type you mentioned -- do you know how low of pressure you have at the water source? Might be worth checking to see if you'll need a pressure regulator or not (drip tape prefers very low pressure, at 10 to 15 PSI).
I've got two quick resources that can help you determine everything you need -- first, here is a link to a video guide we did for a row crop system that will likely be very similar to yours, it's a row crop system running from a hose bib: th-cam.com/video/oSI_rSTAZjQ/w-d-xo.html
Next here is a link to our row crop kits -- they have everything needed to make a complete system, so you could find one that's close (mostly in regards to total length of mainline tubing and total length of tape to cover your rows) and slightly modify it to make a good match -- the parts in these kits are the same we used in the video:
You're also more than welcome to ask any questions that come up -- I reply to questions here during office hours and would be happy to help :)