I know this is an old video but in case you or anyone else doesn't know the Spotmatic you have there is a very early 231 model only the first million or so were like this after that the end screw was moved to the top, the meter switch was made bigger and the film counter assembly was altered . There are two different repair manual for early and later models. The one you have is much rarer than most. Thanks for video. Mike.
I have an Ashai with a dirty crystal. Found directions to remove the top. Some of the screws were really tight! When I got to the winder (the last thing you did), I could not get the thing loose. That shutter/ASA knob is finicky putting it back together. I saw you take it apart so I could figure out how to put it together properly. Still working on reassembly. Thank you for your video! Much appreciated. Marianne
@@tobroken1965 Yes. That shutter knob continues to not want to go back the way it went. Can't pull up on the outer disk to move the ASA. P.S. Patience pays off! Finally got it together. Thanks for responding.
Hi. I will soon be making an attempt to replace the mirror prism in my Spotmatic SP with a clean one from a donor camera. Disassembly looks pretty straight forward, but the only step making me nervous involves that long coiled spring under the advance lever. Do any of your videos show how to deal with that spring in reassembly? Thanks
No I dont, at least not yet. That spring works the frame counter and of the bodies I have taken apart this one was the only one that had this style spring, most others I found to be more modular and they came apart as a unit. When I reassembled this one the first time (not shown) it went back together fine, the second time (after this video) It was a pain and eventually I decided to live without the counter. I recommend taking close up pics with each step. Its not complicated, but it is like surgery, one end of the spring catches on the outer rim and the other slides into a slot on that brass hub. Be patient and you will get it, just be prepared for it to take a time or two.
@@tobroken1965 Thanks for the video. The frame counter of my Spotmatic is stuck. Is it because of the spring coil not working properly and could it be repaired without removing the whole top?
I have a p30t I'm wanting to take the split focus screen out of and put in my new k-3 pentax camera . Can I get to the screen by taking the top off ? What more do you have to remove to get to the screen ?
That is newer than anything I have worked on. I assume that you would need to remove the top to get to the prism the biggest difference will likely be the amount of electronics that will need to be be moved. do more research on line to find you exact model, use "repair" or some similar words in your search. Good luck.
I feel the need to remove the top cover of my K1000. Haven't done it yet. The camera problem is seemingly a standard sort of k1000 issue. The shutter will not release and the advance lever will not move. The red indicator by the shutter/exposure button is showing, which seems to indicate the camera is cocked but jammed somehow. I have done all the bottom cover remedies offered but to no avail. The task of removing the top cover seems very daunting, but your video has lessened the anxiety. Any advice on what to do next would be helpful. Thanks for the video, very informative especially tools types etc required.
Without the camera in hand its guess work. From my chair here I would say the problem is in the top if exploring the bottom got you no where. Check this video "Pentax H2 mystery lockup and slow speed fix" at 4:49 is a view with the top of a Spotmatic open, you will see a brass gear, its actually two gears stacked, there is a tiny part that works up and down, allowing the gears to work together or separately. This has been a recurrent problem with many of my old cameras. The two gears get locked together from the tension and that tiny part cant move up or down. You dont need to take the camera apart for this, 4:49 is only for reference. If you are comfortable with the idea, try wiggling the top gear with a very tiny screwdriver and depress the release, its the larger L shaped plate over the brass gears. It sounds silly but a little wiggle goes a long way sometimes. Its not a sure-fix, only an idea. Post here how you make out.
I recently bought a Spotmatic SP, very grungy, cleaned it, and cleaned the corroded battery compartment and battery cover threads, to see if the meter works. It turns on, but is very erratic, as I turn the shutter speed or adjust the ASA dial it jumps from one extreme to the other. I suspect that problem is in the shutter speed/ASA dial, probably a variable resistor that sets Shutter/ASA speeds. The problem is probably dirt on the resistor surface. A video on evaluating the problem with the meter will probably attract many viewers, like me.
Under the shutter speed dial there is a rheostat (of sorts) that is the first link in that chain, i have never tried to take one apart but could give it a try soon. I am inclined to avoid any extra movement of those because the connections are so delicate but I do have a couple or organ donors I could experiment on. Worst case, you learn what not to do.
@@tobroken1965 Exactly what I suspect, that variable resistor should be clean and even throughout the surface. Probably the problem on most Pentax cameras meters of that era, to include the K1000, that, and the corrosion on the threads on the battery cover. I will be watching for the video if you decide to make it.
@@carlosencarnacion9667 I posted a video of a very basic resistance test, some of it lost off camera but you will get the idea. Without knowing what the values should be its more an exercise than a test but it could be useful.
You showed how many parts are missing for my camera. At the end some idiot tried to use pliers to check if the Pentax Spotmatic triggers the shutter release. I found a cheap copy of it for me. I'm holding this camera. Maybe I can find some parts to run it.
I've been owning my pentax for about 2 years now and with this camera I've been given the honor of being in a few galleries. K1000. It was really cheap and is easy to fix. Film and photo paper don't pay for themselves lol.
Are you talking about the ring under the rewind knob? It should just unscrew however it may be stuck if it was ever over-tightened. Make sure your tool is stiff enough to stay in the holes without slipping, these are usually plastic in "newer" models, you only get to slip a very few times before the part must be replaced.
I would not. I have used very light oil on moving parts but only after cleaning and VERY sparingly. Grease is to thick for anything that must move freely.
5:45 "being gentle, opps, scratched it" :) Been there done that. Thanks for the instruction.
I know this is an old video but in case you or anyone else doesn't know the Spotmatic you have there is a very early 231 model only the first million or so were like this after that the end screw was moved to the top, the meter switch was made bigger and the film counter assembly was altered . There are two different repair manual for early and later models. The one you have is much rarer than most. Thanks for video. Mike.
I cleaned pentax SV's prism assembly. you are helpful ! Thank you.
You are welcome! Good luck.
Thanks just bought one of ebay, has a dirty prism so need to clean it!
This will help me a lot thanks again.
Muchas gracias por este video,muy explicito,muy practico,good job.
I’d like to see a video of one being put back together - that always seems harder for me! Great video!
OK, I will put that on my list.
Play this Video in reverse 😜
I have an Ashai with a dirty crystal. Found directions to remove the top. Some of the screws were really tight! When I got to the winder (the last thing you did), I could not get the thing loose.
That shutter/ASA knob is finicky putting it back together. I saw you take it apart so I could figure out how to put it together properly.
Still working on reassembly. Thank you for your video! Much appreciated. Marianne
Its patient fiddly work but not as complex as it looks and fortunately stuck screws are often the worst part of it.
@@tobroken1965 Yes. That shutter knob continues to not want to go back the way it went. Can't pull up on the outer disk to move the ASA.
P.S. Patience pays off! Finally got it together. Thanks for responding.
I have a pentax spotmatic 11 and the meter switch or stop down lever on the front left side of the camera has come of.how do you replace it
Yep... helpful!
Hi. I will soon be making an attempt to replace the mirror prism in my Spotmatic SP with a clean one from a donor camera. Disassembly looks pretty straight forward, but the only step making me nervous involves that long coiled spring under the advance lever. Do any of your videos show how to deal with that spring in reassembly? Thanks
No I dont, at least not yet. That spring works the frame counter and of the bodies I have taken apart this one was the only one that had this style spring, most others I found to be more modular and they came apart as a unit. When I reassembled this one the first time (not shown) it went back together fine, the second time (after this video) It was a pain and eventually I decided to live without the counter. I recommend taking close up pics with each step. Its not complicated, but it is like surgery, one end of the spring catches on the outer rim and the other slides into a slot on that brass hub. Be patient and you will get it, just be prepared for it to take a time or two.
tobroken1965 Thanks a lot for the info and the reply.
@@tobroken1965 Thanks for the video. The frame counter of my Spotmatic is stuck. Is it because of the spring coil not working properly and could it be repaired without removing the whole top?
I have a p30t I'm wanting to take the split focus screen out of and put in my new k-3 pentax camera . Can I get to the screen by taking the top off ? What more do you have to remove to get to the screen ?
That is newer than anything I have worked on. I assume that you would need to remove the top to get to the prism the biggest difference will likely be the amount of electronics that will need to be be moved. do more research on line to find you exact model, use "repair" or some similar words in your search. Good luck.
I feel the need to remove the top cover of my K1000. Haven't done it yet. The camera problem is seemingly a standard sort of k1000 issue.
The shutter will not release and the advance lever will not move. The red indicator by the shutter/exposure button is showing, which seems to indicate the camera is cocked but jammed somehow. I have done all the bottom cover remedies offered but to no avail. The task of removing the top cover seems very daunting, but your video has lessened the anxiety. Any advice on what to do next would be helpful. Thanks for the video, very informative especially tools types etc required.
Without the camera in hand its guess work. From my chair here I would say the problem is in the top if exploring the bottom got you no where. Check this video "Pentax H2 mystery lockup and slow speed fix" at 4:49 is a view with the top of a Spotmatic open, you will see a brass gear, its actually two gears stacked, there is a tiny part that works up and down, allowing the gears to work together or separately. This has been a recurrent problem with many of my old cameras. The two gears get locked together from the tension and that tiny part cant move up or down. You dont need to take the camera apart for this, 4:49 is only for reference. If you are comfortable with the idea, try wiggling the top gear with a very tiny screwdriver and depress the release, its the larger L shaped plate over the brass gears. It sounds silly but a little wiggle goes a long way sometimes. Its not a sure-fix, only an idea. Post here how you make out.
Accidentally took off the shutter button / lock mechanism. A small spring fell out. How do I fix this?
I am stumped on that. I've never taken a shutter button lock apart, they are fairly rare on the cameras I have seen.
I recently bought a Spotmatic SP, very grungy, cleaned it, and cleaned the corroded battery compartment and battery cover threads, to see if the meter works. It turns on, but is very erratic, as I turn the shutter speed or adjust the ASA dial it jumps from one extreme to the other. I suspect that problem is in the shutter speed/ASA dial, probably a variable resistor that sets Shutter/ASA speeds. The problem is probably dirt on the resistor surface. A video on evaluating the problem with the meter will probably attract many viewers, like me.
Under the shutter speed dial there is a rheostat (of sorts) that is the first link in that chain, i have never tried to take one apart but could give it a try soon. I am inclined to avoid any extra movement of those because the connections are so delicate but I do have a couple or organ donors I could experiment on. Worst case, you learn what not to do.
@@tobroken1965 Exactly what I suspect, that variable resistor should be clean and even throughout the surface. Probably the problem on most Pentax cameras meters of that era, to include the K1000, that, and the corrosion on the threads on the battery cover. I will be watching for the video if you decide to make it.
@@carlosencarnacion9667 I posted a video of a very basic resistance test, some of it lost off camera but you will get the idea. Without knowing what the values should be its more an exercise than a test but it could be useful.
@@tobroken1965 I watched it just now, great video! Thanks!
You showed how many parts are missing for my camera. At the end some idiot tried to use pliers to check if the Pentax Spotmatic triggers the shutter release. I found a cheap copy of it for me. I'm holding this camera. Maybe I can find some parts to run it.
Old cameras like this Pentax are easy to find. Pentax made these for years. Good luck
I've been owning my pentax for about 2 years now and with this camera I've been given the honor of being in a few galleries. K1000. It was really cheap and is easy to fix. Film and photo paper don't pay for themselves lol.
Hi, I have been trying to get the part under the rewinder out but it would not budge at all. Is there anything I can do about it?
Are you talking about the ring under the rewind knob? It should just unscrew however it may be stuck if it was ever over-tightened. Make sure your tool is stiff enough to stay in the holes without slipping, these are usually plastic in "newer" models, you only get to slip a very few times before the part must be replaced.
Hello,, Pentax k1000, lens release pin stuck, won't recess, lens won't rotate. HELP,HELP
I got one of those for my kid. The meter doesn't work. Are these serviceable?
It depends on a lot of variables. I have gotten some to work, others not. Start by making sure the battery box is clean.
@@tobroken1965 will do. Thanks for the reply.
Yes very.
Do you have to apply grease on anything upon reassembly?
I would not. I have used very light oil on moving parts but only after cleaning and VERY sparingly. Grease is to thick for anything that must move freely.
@@tobroken1965 gun oil or some other kind? thanks!
@@nectarandice watch oil is what I use. Very thin and almost clear.
Sir my pentex reel opening top is broken ,so how can I open now??
I dont understand what you mean by reel opening top. please clarify.
@@tobroken1965 my reel rotator top is broken so I was facing difficulty to open that so how can I open?
@@manojrbadiger1118 If you mean the rewind knob, maybe this will help. th-cam.com/video/5d53BDIGZ68/w-d-xo.html