Wow. Christmas for Doug. The best thing I have done this year was close ratio first second third and the a large jump to fourth so I can cruise on the highway at 70 miles an hour. Since I changed my fourth gear I have put literally 4000 miles on the highway.
Totally agree, lot's of times I don't take Mauler out because I have to far to go and just don't want to be high revving just going down the road. Hopefully this resolves that.
Also we have a eco 2.5 in one of our Buggy’s at the shop that is running a dyno tested 480 ATW hp with a few internal upgrades and a turbo. So don’t let anyone say eco is too small. With a few dollars they can really rip!
Inboard brakes allow for reduced outboard weight and more controlled suspension but your driveshafts better be strong! The torsional loads under heavy braking are going to wind the driveshafts up like a spring and you could get the back end hopping along as they unwind...definitely not a good idea for anything approaching standard shafts, believe me....I know lol. To be honest, I would not do inboard again as the increased suspension control is not worth it and can be achieved in other ways. Nice trans, wish we had them back in the day! Great video as ever, keep up the good work....Wratchet is looking awesome already.
I'm with Dave, inboard brakes on a off road vehicle are a bit dangerous. If you break an axle you loose your brakes. All you are doing is braking those flanges at that point and the broken axle and hub are able to free wheel, not so bad on a flat surface but on a hill......
Man you bring up some good points. I was already considering how the driveshafts would need to transmit the braking forces to the hubs. But I didn't consider them torsional twisting and causing issues. Thanks for the hindsight, I still want to try it (i'm so stubborn) but I'll make sure to really look ahead and see what kind of drieshafts I'll be able to use.
@@DougBugBuilder Yeah but you still have fronts and most likely a turning brake. Your not racing this thing professionally with sponsors. Your just building a high class fun car.
I’m wondering how apply the onboard brakes in between the driveshaft and the output shaft would work. I get that the torsional loads will still cause issues but, if the rotor is connected direct to the stub, would you still lose the brakes when the shaft breaks?
yokes are not Constant velocity joints, which means that it varies the speed depending on the angle, therefore you can mess up your transmission. CV is the way to go
You are correct on that yokes are not constant. But when you properly clock the yokes (because there are two) they somewhat neutralize each other. You still have some vibes from velocity changes. But it's not that bad. Bear in mind I'm not arguing with you on this, just stating that properly done it seems manageable.
I used to drag race years ago. It was a lot of fun just driving a car out to the track and racing and driving back home. Before you know it you need an enclosed trailer and a motor home and it becomes a big hassle. It's easy to get carried away. I really like the old bug.
@@DougBugBuilder I apologize for sounding so judgemental in my comment. I watch your videos over and over to pick up techniques from you work. Awesome artistic and mechanical skills and the drive you exhibit in your work is inspirational.
@@DaS-ys8us No worries my friend. Your comment has experience and truth in it. I before have gone overboard and burnt myself out on something. Hopefully I won't on this, but who can tell. 😊
The military HMMWV brakes are inboard. I think wildwood sells the parts for those. Aside from unsprung weight, I like the accessibility of them. Also, it should get more air flow which means better cooling.
Yeah, I forgot that had inboard brakes. I think because of the geared hubs. But either way it's super cool. I'm pretty sure I'll give it a try. I can always go back to outboard if inboard doesn't work out.
There's also a technical problem with mounting the callipers to the frame and not to the transaxle itself: your frame will always flex in relation to the box. This means you'll get major pad knock-back. So much, you probably floor the brake pedal when you really need it and trust me, that's very unnerving to say the least.
Dude..... that's great info. I never even thought about that. There's a beefy mounting point at the top of the transaxle that I think I could tie into for rigidity coupling the calipers to the transaxle. Or possible tie into the side plates. Great tip though.
@@DougBugBuilder Well, it simplifies things a lot, providing the drive shafts will hold. I think you should go for it, but just keep space to go 'back' inside the wheel, if necessary.
You are correct, I have to decide if I want to add additional stress to the driveshafts or not. I'll be thinking about it for the next couple weeks. Thanks for the comment!
Back in the 1970s and 1980s, some class 1 buggies ran inboard brakes. I think a company called Summers Brothers was a common supplier. Now in the 2020s, nobody runs inboard brakes for some reason.
I didn't think about that. However this transaxle has an internal oil pump, and it has ports to connect an oil cooler to it. So I suppose if I hooked that up it could offset it.
I'm in Dacono, I have a older eco, needs to be rebuilt! No pcm, most of the wiring harness, & starter, alt, has been out in the weather. If you are close enough to pick it up its you'res! Comes with Manuel flywheel.
yeah, that might be a good block for mock up purposes. Can you email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com. Maybe I can set something up to come up there and get it. Thanks!
I build jeeps and I’m goin to start a full tube chassis bug build with a ls you might look up a beak kit for a np205 they have a flange you might be able to make work
Especially if you’re using u-joints. Some CV solid axles get used to getting torqued in one direction and I’ve been told that it leads to fatigue cracking. But not with tube drive shafts. Jaguar did that for decades. Oh, if you can build a chassis, you can figure out how to get disk and caliper mounts...😉
Is the engine and transmission going to be solid mounted? If so then it would be possible to mount inboard brakes to the chassis, otherwise wouldn't even slight movement through the mounts disrupt alignment of the rotors in the calipers? Seems like inboard brakes would be better mounted to the transmission. Something like the telescoping driveshafts on your other bug might cop a beating if the splines are subject to braking forces. I do like the idea of inboard brakes, there's an alfa that used them might be worth looking under one?
The engine and transaxle will be rigidly mounted to the chassis. You are right if they weren't there would be to much movement within the calipers. I'll see if I can mount the calipers to the transaxle as well. Thanks for the ideas, not sure if I'll do it or not yet.
The only downfall I see with in-board brakes is all the torque & strain on the drive system out-board of the brakes... Think about all the stress & torque on the drive shafts & U-joints trying to stop those large gripping tires. & If anything in the drive line fails, you don't have ANY brakes on that driveshaft... Just something to think about! (I'm not an automotive engineer... LOL!)
@@DougBugBuilder LOL! Thanks! I work as a CNC Machinist/Programmer... I use CAD All day long making Solid Models & Running Toolpaths off of them in my CAM System. You have some really great Fab skills! I enjoy watching your progress!
I ordered right from Weddle. They (Sean) were extremely helpful in deciding what transaxle was best for me. And what the best gear ratios were as well.
@@DougBugBuilder Thanks for the reply I hope to build my own chassis in the future and your videos and advice are very helpful. I currently have an old Berrien chassis that I have done some improvments to the chassis to perform better for the summer. I teach electrical trades at a technical high school so have recently had a lot of time on my hands to get the work done (school is closed). I am doing a lot of electrical upgrades on it and will be making some videos to share with my students from class. I have shared your channel with another teacher in my building who teaches film and media and he agrees with me you do an outstanding job of putting your videos together. So thanks! I know it takes a lot of time to put them together because I too am making online content for my students! Keep up the great work and I look forward to future videos.
Hey Doug have class 10 with ecotec and 091 wanting to upgrade to 5 speed. What is the measurement from front of transaxle to center of cvs on h25? Awesome videos!!
So why not go trailing arm in the rear like most people? Maybe set it up like a pro buggy with the extra links. I like your h arm set up just seems harder
I'm not like most people. 😁 Setting up H Arms is a little tricky at first. But once you are past that you have a setup that is very adjustable. I'll happily take the extra time now to set it up and go with the H Arms. 👍
Hey Doug, since you are doing A arms no plunge, look up RCV ultimate non plunging 930 CV (40+ degrees of angle) then use an f150 outer stub 33spline and an intrepid bearing 33 spline. that takes a 28 spline EMPI axle (custom length). This set up will give you the most ANGLE and travel, widely use in long travel racecars. th-cam.com/video/d31U5Z5IsZw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/PkU4x33TbCg/w-d-xo.html
How do you think this transaxle will hold up to your j series and whoop section? Or if you ever thought about putting a turbo on the j series will it still hold up?
This Transaxle supposedly is designed for an LS or 550 hp, so I'm hoping it can literally take anything this J series can throw at it. I plan to eventually have a turbo and get about 450ish HP. So I guess I'll find out.
@@DougBugBuilder awesome! Can’t wait to see! Please get videos of whoop sections you do go through. Car is looking very nice! Keep up the great informative content!
I started in an HVAC welding shop for like 14 years. Then I moved over to HVAC service in the same company. Now (i'm almost 50) I work for another company as an Infrastructure Engineer for their HVAC equipment. My career started really intense, but now that I'm more on the management side it gives me more time to tinker with stuff like this. And I have always been into of road design and tinkering.
Doug Bug. That’s kind of funny, I am in the same industry. I’m just about 40 and have been in the HVAC field for about 18 years. I was a maintenance man and welder for a pretty large company for a few years when I was young. I’m building a 68 bug frame swapped on a 2014 f-150 with a front engine 5.0 coyote. There’s so much to do. It is overwhelming sometimes. I appreciate what you are doing. You are a great source of reference and good place to get another aspect of building a wild bug
Well, I've looked at older Porsche transaxles. They're pretty pricey, it seemed easier to just go new. But I never considered late model transaxles. So I don't really have an answer for that.
So dug im im in the same spot builing my a-arm baja im going with the mendeola 2d with an L.S and a small cam for reliability,let me ask you this what hubs did you use?
If I do high res the upload times are in the hours. But it shouldn't be 360, I typically upload at 720. I'll double check on the next upload. Thanks for the heads up.
Wow. Christmas for Doug.
The best thing I have done this year was close ratio first second third and the a large jump to fourth so I can cruise on the highway at 70 miles an hour. Since I changed my fourth gear I have put literally 4000 miles on the highway.
Totally agree, lot's of times I don't take Mauler out because I have to far to go and just don't want to be high revving just going down the road. Hopefully this resolves that.
WOOOOOWWWWW!!! Un siglo de estos voy a comprar una transmisión de ese tipo jajajajaja sin llorar.. Saludos!!
Lol gracias amigo
Also we have a eco 2.5 in one of our Buggy’s at the shop that is running a dyno tested 480 ATW hp with a few internal upgrades and a turbo.
So don’t let anyone say eco is too small. With a few dollars they can really rip!
Wow! 480 would be amazing, thanks for the inspiration.
Inboard brakes allow for reduced outboard weight and more controlled suspension but your driveshafts better be strong! The torsional loads under heavy braking are going to wind the driveshafts up like a spring and you could get the back end hopping along as they unwind...definitely not a good idea for anything approaching standard shafts, believe me....I know lol.
To be honest, I would not do inboard again as the increased suspension control is not worth it and can be achieved in other ways.
Nice trans, wish we had them back in the day!
Great video as ever, keep up the good work....Wratchet is looking awesome already.
I'm with Dave, inboard brakes on a off road vehicle are a bit dangerous. If you break an axle you loose your brakes. All you are doing is braking those flanges at that point and the broken axle and hub are able to free wheel, not so bad on a flat surface but on a hill......
Man you bring up some good points. I was already considering how the driveshafts would need to transmit the braking forces to the hubs. But I didn't consider them torsional twisting and causing issues. Thanks for the hindsight, I still want to try it (i'm so stubborn) but I'll make sure to really look ahead and see what kind of drieshafts I'll be able to use.
Agree, I was also thinking about the fact that if I break a driveshaft now I've lost brakes on that wheel. Thanks for the thoughts.
@@DougBugBuilder Yeah but you still have fronts and most likely a turning brake. Your not racing this thing professionally with sponsors. Your just building a high class fun car.
I’m wondering how apply the onboard brakes in between the driveshaft and the output shaft would work. I get that the torsional loads will still cause issues but, if the rotor is connected direct to the stub, would you still lose the brakes when the shaft breaks?
Thanks Doug for all the transaxle info.!
You bet!
yokes are not Constant velocity joints, which means that it varies the speed depending on the angle, therefore you can mess up your transmission. CV is the way to go
You are correct on that yokes are not constant. But when you properly clock the yokes (because there are two) they somewhat neutralize each other. You still have some vibes from velocity changes. But it's not that bad. Bear in mind I'm not arguing with you on this, just stating that properly done it seems manageable.
I used to drag race years ago. It was a lot of fun just driving a car out to the track and racing and driving back home. Before you know it you need an enclosed trailer and a motor home and it becomes a big hassle. It's easy to get carried away. I really like the old bug.
I can't argue with your logic. I need to be very careful that Wratchet doesn't get away from me. Thanks for the advice!
@@DougBugBuilder I've been thinking of taking a new style bug and putting a mid engine audi 2.7 biturbo in it. Just making it rear wheel drive.
@@DougBugBuilder I apologize for sounding so judgemental in my comment. I watch your videos over and over to pick up techniques from you work. Awesome artistic and mechanical skills and the drive you exhibit in your work is inspirational.
@@DaS-ys8us That would be cool. I like projects like that where they are not what you see everyday.
@@DaS-ys8us No worries my friend. Your comment has experience and truth in it. I before have gone overboard and burnt myself out on something. Hopefully I won't on this, but who can tell. 😊
Man! you are in the major leagues now! congratulations!
Thanks buddy!
That's a nice bit of kit!
Better be for what it costs! lol
The military HMMWV brakes are inboard. I think wildwood sells the parts for those. Aside from unsprung weight, I like the accessibility of them. Also, it should get more air flow which means better cooling.
Yeah, I forgot that had inboard brakes. I think because of the geared hubs. But either way it's super cool. I'm pretty sure I'll give it a try. I can always go back to outboard if inboard doesn't work out.
There's also a technical problem with mounting the callipers to the frame and not to the transaxle itself: your frame will always flex in relation to the box. This means you'll get major pad knock-back.
So much, you probably floor the brake pedal when you really need it and trust me, that's very unnerving to say the least.
Dude..... that's great info. I never even thought about that. There's a beefy mounting point at the top of the transaxle that I think I could tie into for rigidity coupling the calipers to the transaxle. Or possible tie into the side plates. Great tip though.
Are you for inboard brakes? Or would you favor mounting out at the wheels? Just curious what you think.
@@DougBugBuilder Well, it simplifies things a lot, providing the drive shafts will hold.
I think you should go for it, but just keep space to go 'back' inside the wheel, if necessary.
@@Paul_VanGo OK, thanks!
Inboard brakes no no, I think with that configuration you will only add more stress to the shafts and moving parts on itself
You are correct, I have to decide if I want to add additional stress to the driveshafts or not. I'll be thinking about it for the next couple weeks. Thanks for the comment!
Back in the 1970s and 1980s, some class 1 buggies ran inboard brakes. I think a company called Summers Brothers was a common supplier. Now in the 2020s, nobody runs inboard brakes for some reason.
I don't know why, I've thought about that. Might be that the gains are not worth the hassle. Who knows. Maybe I'll find out. ;-)
I wonder if the heat from inboard brakes would soak into the transaxle? I like the idea of u joints instead of cv's.
I didn't think about that. However this transaxle has an internal oil pump, and it has ports to connect an oil cooler to it. So I suppose if I hooked that up it could offset it.
I'm in Dacono, I have a older eco, needs to be rebuilt! No pcm, most of the wiring harness, & starter, alt, has been out in the weather. If you are close enough to pick it up its you'res! Comes with Manuel flywheel.
yeah, that might be a good block for mock up purposes. Can you email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com. Maybe I can set something up to come up there and get it. Thanks!
I build jeeps and I’m goin to start a full tube chassis bug build with a ls you might look up a beak kit for a np205 they have a flange you might be able to make work
I'll look that up, appreciate the tip. 👍
Run inboard brakes to get the weight off the wheels!
At this point I want to. But I need to see if I can get the components to actually do it.
Especially if you’re using u-joints. Some CV solid axles get used to getting torqued in one direction and I’ve been told that it leads to fatigue cracking. But not with tube drive shafts. Jaguar did that for decades. Oh, if you can build a chassis, you can figure out how to get disk and caliper mounts...😉
Is the engine and transmission going to be solid mounted? If so then it would be possible to mount inboard brakes to the chassis, otherwise wouldn't even slight movement through the mounts disrupt alignment of the rotors in the calipers? Seems like inboard brakes would be better mounted to the transmission. Something like the telescoping driveshafts on your other bug might cop a beating if the splines are subject to braking forces. I do like the idea of inboard brakes, there's an alfa that used them might be worth looking under one?
The engine and transaxle will be rigidly mounted to the chassis. You are right if they weren't there would be to much movement within the calipers. I'll see if I can mount the calipers to the transaxle as well. Thanks for the ideas, not sure if I'll do it or not yet.
The only downfall I see with in-board brakes is all the torque & strain on the drive system out-board of the brakes... Think about all the stress & torque on the drive shafts & U-joints trying to stop those large gripping tires. & If anything in the drive line fails, you don't have ANY brakes on that driveshaft... Just something to think about! (I'm not an automotive engineer... LOL!)
I totally agree with you, that's something I'll need to really consider it. Thanks for the thoughts, you should be an engineer...LOL.
@@DougBugBuilder LOL! Thanks! I work as a CNC Machinist/Programmer... I use CAD All day long making Solid Models & Running Toolpaths off of them in my CAM System. You have some really great Fab skills! I enjoy watching your progress!
Ohh great! I found the video to answer my question on my last comment. Thanks!
And I just answered your last question. 😁
Thanks for the video and discussion on why you selected the one you did. Did you order directly from Weddle? Or another supplier?
I ordered right from Weddle. They (Sean) were extremely helpful in deciding what transaxle was best for me. And what the best gear ratios were as well.
@@DougBugBuilder Thanks for the reply I hope to build my own chassis in the future and your videos and advice are very helpful. I currently have an old Berrien chassis that I have done some improvments to the chassis to perform better for the summer. I teach electrical trades at a technical high school so have recently had a lot of time on my hands to get the work done (school is closed). I am doing a lot of electrical upgrades on it and will be making some videos to share with my students from class. I have shared your channel with another teacher in my building who teaches film and media and he agrees with me you do an outstanding job of putting your videos together. So thanks! I know it takes a lot of time to put them together because I too am making online content for my students! Keep up the great work and I look forward to future videos.
Hey Doug have class 10 with ecotec and 091 wanting to upgrade to 5 speed. What is the measurement from front of transaxle to center of cvs on h25? Awesome videos!!
From the end of the bellhousing to center of CVs is 10.25". If you have an engine adaptor it will add to that.
So why not go trailing arm in the rear like most people? Maybe set it up like a pro buggy with the extra links. I like your h arm set up just seems harder
I'm not like most people. 😁 Setting up H Arms is a little tricky at first. But once you are past that you have a setup that is very adjustable. I'll happily take the extra time now to set it up and go with the H Arms. 👍
Doug, How do the shifters hook up to these Weddles, is it some kind of cable?
This transaxle (HV25) has a shift shaft just like the VW bug transaxles.
Hey Doug,
since you are doing A arms no plunge, look up RCV ultimate non plunging 930 CV (40+ degrees of angle) then use an f150 outer stub 33spline and an intrepid bearing 33 spline. that takes a 28 spline EMPI axle (custom length). This set up will give you the most ANGLE and travel, widely use in long travel racecars. th-cam.com/video/d31U5Z5IsZw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/PkU4x33TbCg/w-d-xo.html
I didn't realize there were CVs out here like that. I really appreciate the info and link. I will look into that as an option.
If you put the brakes on the inside what would happen if we you snapped a Spine on your wheel you would lose your brakes
Yes, you would lose the brakes for that wheel. You would still have the other. But it's something that needs to be considered.
How do you think this transaxle will hold up to your j series and whoop section? Or if you ever thought about putting a turbo on the j series will it still hold up?
This Transaxle supposedly is designed for an LS or 550 hp, so I'm hoping it can literally take anything this J series can throw at it. I plan to eventually have a turbo and get about 450ish HP. So I guess I'll find out.
@@DougBugBuilder awesome! Can’t wait to see! Please get videos of whoop sections you do go through. Car is looking very nice! Keep up the great informative content!
If you don’t mind answering. What do you do for a profession on the daily? I’ve been curious about that for probably 2 years now.
I started in an HVAC welding shop for like 14 years. Then I moved over to HVAC service in the same company. Now (i'm almost 50) I work for another company as an Infrastructure Engineer for their HVAC equipment. My career started really intense, but now that I'm more on the management side it gives me more time to tinker with stuff like this. And I have always been into of road design and tinkering.
Doug Bug. That’s kind of funny, I am in the same industry. I’m just about 40 and have been in the HVAC field for about 18 years. I was a maintenance man and welder for a pretty large company for a few years when I was young. I’m building a 68 bug frame swapped on a 2014 f-150 with a front engine 5.0 coyote. There’s so much to do. It is overwhelming sometimes. I appreciate what you are doing. You are a great source of reference and good place to get another aspect of building a wild bug
@@gseyank100 Good for you, it's a good industry with lot's of potential.
Good luck with the build.
Doug this is a stupid question but why cant you use a late model porsche trans?
Well, I've looked at older Porsche transaxles. They're pretty pricey, it seemed easier to just go new. But I never considered late model transaxles. So I don't really have an answer for that.
So dug im im in the same spot builing my a-arm baja im going with the mendeola 2d with an L.S and a small cam for reliability,let me ask you this what hubs did you use?
@@elizabethwinner2695 In the rear I'm using toyota 4Runner hubs for a 4x4 4Runner.
In the front I'm using 4Runner hubs but from a 2X4 4Runner.
Cv axles and 20 inches of travel!
I've looked into CV verse U joints. I think initially I'll go with U Joints for cost reasons. But I should still be able to get 20" travel with that.
Wwwwwoowwwww👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍💪💪💪
Thanks bud!
I love your videos man but why are they only 360p
If I do high res the upload times are in the hours. But it shouldn't be 360, I typically upload at 720. I'll double check on the next upload. Thanks for the heads up.