I really appreciate how you walk through what you're doing, as well as hiccups encountered and why and your work-around for them. No install is perfect but you certainly know how to teach, thanks! Paul
Excellent video. Ive watched so many videos of this install from Australia. They are very good at talking about everything but the actual install process. Your videos shows everything i wanted to see. Easy to follow. Great Job!
I see several items that are of concern. The Anderson connector under the hood is going to be an issue down the road, the connector will get exposed to salt/road grime/dirt/water, the Anderson connector there really isn't needed, it could go straight to the battery. I believe the standard for solar connectors are mc4 or sae, I have never seen Anderson connectors used for solar. The temperature sensor on the DC DC is redundant as your battery has a bms that will protect the battery. The wiring should all be wrapped in split loom or harness tape or some combination, you want this to last as long as the rest of the truck. For the ignition + wire I would have tapped the under hood fuse box instead, no need to penetrate the firewall boot.
Wow, is that all? So there isn’t any Anderson connection under the hood, all the Anderson connections are in the bed inside the canopy. Anderson connections are very common solar connections in Australia and definitely last. The temp sensor is security since not all lithium batteries come with temp sensors on their BMS. Safely third is my motto. I will definitely look at the cable size because I honestly didn’t even think about it when installing. The entire system is from Australia and assumed it would be proper gauged wires. Thanks for keeping me honest.
Great video Kelly! RLD makes a full length cabinet for your 5 ft bed. The cabinets are a great addition and will give you plenty of space to add your DCDC converter, etc.
Awesome video! Exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’ll be doing with a renogy 20a charger and a 121 agm battery for the fridge. The Anderson plugs are nice but I think I’m going to go cheaper with wire crimp ends.
Awesome video! Exactly i was looking for kinda beast n cheap setup, but question so you starting battery is your regular lead acid and you auxiliary is sok? Am i reading correctly?
Yes that is correct. The starter battery is factor lead acid and the house battery is lithium. An update to the Kickass. I have been having issues with the DCDC charger working off the alternator. Tried working with Australia but they aren’t very helpful. I’m pulling the system and going with Renogy. They were having a killer sale.
Nice Rick thanks for the video I’m running a national Luna battery pack built in everything plug and play and I can remove the pack put it in a tent or vehicle to have power as well be blessed
Hey mate, just came across this vid this afternoon and it was awesome and what I needed as I am just waiting on myy dcdc charger. Also I noticed that you're still using cig ports for the fridge, can I suggest cutting it off and putting an Anderson plug on it. This give you peace of mind that it won't come out while out on the bumpy tracks.😊
Love the video man, I plan to do this mod down the road. When you get the solar installed, is there a limit on wattage or quantity of panels that can be installed?
Been looking into solutions for how to power a camp fridge rather than from the cigarette plug charging a jackery. Made it look simple! Anything you would’ve done differently?
two questions can the stock alternator keep up with the system long term??? is it still holding up?? i wanna run a dedicated 2nd batt for a subwoofer, lights and other accessories. thanks for the video very infromative!!
Hey thank you. So the stock alternator should have plenty of power to run the dcdc for a auxiliary battery. Currently I am having some issues with the kickass. My alternator is putting out the 13.7 bolts that it takes to kick on. I have going round and round with kickass and not getting resolution. I just last night ordered the Renogy DCC50S. It is on killer sale. It also comes with a display and Bluetooth antenna. It’s currently $250. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the video! May I ask what Amp fuse did you connect the ignition cable? I have the battery box with a LifeP04 battery also. Just not sure which Amp fuse to tap into. Thanks in advance!
Great video and great explanation! i'm curious, how long would i need to drive/run the vehicle to have the DCDC charger fully charge a 100amh battery? lets assume it's a deep cycle AGM at 50% full level.
What made you go with this over Redarc BCDC1225D which is more readily available in the states and is cheaper? Is it just that it's pre-wired with Anderson plugs?
I have seen people do both. Crimping and soldering is the best but hydraulic crimping is actually what the factory does on most industrial fittings. Solder is good but over time can corrode and release where a crimp is pressure and should be good for a very long time.
Now with that being connected to your car battery will that charger thing switch off when the car is off so it’s not draining the crank battery? Or do you just unplug it when you get to camp?
@@AdventureBuilt ok cool wasn’t sure how those worked honestly. Been taking a look at a dual setup for camping in my forester and stuff had no idea about any of this stuff really. Well how it worked anyway 😂
It actually showed up in about 8ish days if memory serves me correct. Obviously shipping overseas will totally depend on numerous factors. It’s worth it.
It does. It can control the alternator input so the juice only flows in one direction. It can also toggle between solar and alternator picking the most powerful input. It’s pretty cool.
if you are not putting in engine bay , you can buy any MPPT ( Solar ) charger . use and save bunch of dollars , These Australian are expensive because they do not have any competition and lack of knowledge, people buys these , only advantage to the one you are using its water seal . or to save more , use jackery 1000 or something like that , and connect with your any cigarette lighter output , everything is assembled in a one housing .
That is definitely one option. The difference with the MPPT is that you can’t charge your system off of you alternator only solar which is a drawback. I actually stared all this with a Jackery 500 and it works great but not easy to put the Jackery in a useable position in the back of my truck. You want to tuck it away because it’s so big but you still need to have access to the front for charging. I think is the best bang for the buck with lots of power and it’s very clean.
@@AdventureBuilt fair enough, I do like the name. You're an adventure mod channel, at least show people how to make the plugs up... You started the video fishing a huge plug when it's easily taken off...
I really appreciate how you walk through what you're doing, as well as hiccups encountered and why and your work-around for them. No install is perfect but you certainly know how to teach, thanks!
Paul
Thank you very much. I really appreciate that.
This is great! I love that you don't use expensive sponsored-only gear and that you show us the bad with the good.
Thanks man. I’m definitely not an engineer but I’ll tell it like I see it.
Excellent video. Ive watched so many videos of this install from Australia. They are very good at talking about everything but the actual install process. Your videos shows everything i wanted to see. Easy to follow. Great Job!
Thank you very much. I have been having issues with mine, so I hope you are having better luck.
@@AdventureBuilt Just found this video and am considering using this set up. Would you still recommend it or do you have updates? Thanks
I see several items that are of concern. The Anderson connector under the hood is going to be an issue down the road, the connector will get exposed to salt/road grime/dirt/water, the Anderson connector there really isn't needed, it could go straight to the battery. I believe the standard for solar connectors are mc4 or sae, I have never seen Anderson connectors used for solar. The temperature sensor on the DC DC is redundant as your battery has a bms that will protect the battery. The wiring should all be wrapped in split loom or harness tape or some combination, you want this to last as long as the rest of the truck. For the ignition + wire I would have tapped the under hood fuse box instead, no need to penetrate the firewall boot.
Wow, is that all? So there isn’t any Anderson connection under the hood, all the Anderson connections are in the bed inside the canopy. Anderson connections are very common solar connections in Australia and definitely last. The temp sensor is security since not all lithium batteries come with temp sensors on their BMS. Safely third is my motto. I will definitely look at the cable size because I honestly didn’t even think about it when installing. The entire system is from Australia and assumed it would be proper gauged wires. Thanks for keeping me honest.
That's why I always read the comments. I agree, it's not a pro install
On all of my Anderson plugs are soldered on it is a lot better than cramping them also you can reuse them if required
I was definitely thinking of doing the cold soldering method but was being lazy. I got a 10ton hydraulic crimper that works awesome.
Crimping is much better and when you crimp, the wire becomes solid . The solder can crack and separate from the terminal
Back on track....... Awesome
Great video Kelly! RLD makes a full length cabinet for your 5 ft bed. The cabinets are a great addition and will give you plenty of space to add your DCDC converter, etc.
Thank you. Will definitely check it out.
Great explanation of how it works.
Great video and install! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video! Exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’ll be doing with a renogy 20a charger and a 121 agm battery for the fridge. The Anderson plugs are nice but I think I’m going to go cheaper with wire crimp ends.
Awesome video! Exactly i was looking for kinda beast n cheap setup, but question so you starting battery is your regular lead acid and you auxiliary is sok? Am i reading correctly?
Yes that is correct. The starter battery is factor lead acid and the house battery is lithium. An update to the Kickass. I have been having issues with the DCDC charger working off the alternator. Tried working with Australia but they aren’t very helpful. I’m pulling the system and going with Renogy. They were having a killer sale.
Nice Rick thanks for the video I’m running a national Luna battery pack built in everything plug and play and I can remove the pack put it in a tent or vehicle to have power as well be blessed
Nice!!!
Hey mate, just came across this vid this afternoon and it was awesome and what I needed as I am just waiting on myy dcdc charger.
Also I noticed that you're still using cig ports for the fridge, can I suggest cutting it off and putting an Anderson plug on it. This give you peace of mind that it won't come out while out on the bumpy tracks.😊
Thanks and it is definitely on my to do list, which is ever evolving 😂😂😂
Love the video man, I plan to do this mod down the road. When you get the solar installed, is there a limit on wattage or quantity of panels that can be installed?
Thank you. Honestly I have been having issues with the kickass and I’m pulling it out and replacing with renogy.
@@AdventureBuilt what kind of issues?
work nice and easy setup but you didn't use any fuses?
Thank you. There is a main fuse on the DCDC wiring and I have fuses on each of the accessories. Should be enough.
Just found your video on this install, my question is what amp size alternator do have on your truck?
Thanks
It’s the stock alternator. Not sure what amperage it is.
Been looking into solutions for how to power a camp fridge rather than from the cigarette plug charging a jackery. Made it look simple! Anything you would’ve done differently?
Definitely use Renogy. The kickass has been unreliable.
Can the kick ass unit be used with just one battery and a solar setup? Thanks. Love your guys videos.
Yea it can be used with one battery. Thank you.
two questions can the stock alternator keep up with the system long term??? is it still holding up?? i wanna run a dedicated 2nd batt for a subwoofer, lights and other accessories. thanks for the video very infromative!!
Hey thank you. So the stock alternator should have plenty of power to run the dcdc for a auxiliary battery. Currently I am having some issues with the kickass. My alternator is putting out the 13.7 bolts that it takes to kick on. I have going round and round with kickass and not getting resolution. I just last night ordered the Renogy DCC50S. It is on killer sale. It also comes with a display and Bluetooth antenna. It’s currently $250. Hope this helps.
@@AdventureBuilt cool thanks for the info!
Excellent video....
Lake Havasu 🌞 Az
Thank you very much!!!
Thank you for the video! May I ask what Amp fuse did you connect the ignition cable? I have the battery box with a LifeP04 battery also. Just not sure which Amp fuse to tap into. Thanks in advance!
Did you heat wrap those wires? It I am not as familiar with the Gen3 but don't you have an exhaust pipe down through that section?
Everything is tucked away from the exhaust. Once I get everything don’t I’ll probably go back with a large wire loom and wrap it up.
Great video and great explanation! i'm curious, how long would i need to drive/run the vehicle to have the DCDC charger fully charge a 100amh battery? lets assume it's a deep cycle AGM at 50% full level.
Frick - looks like another project for me lol. PS those wire strippers changed my damn life bro - next level tool ;)
Yea it awesome. And those wire strippers are next level. I’ve spent years trying to make a cheap pair worth!!!
What made you go with this over Redarc BCDC1225D which is more readily available in the states and is cheaper? Is it just that it's pre-wired with Anderson plugs?
Honestly the ease of having the Anderson connections already done on the system was a huge draw. It made the install really easy.
I read the comments to find out how it should really be done
Hey Kelly, I'm surprised Wirefly does not make a set of Anderson crimper inserts
That wirefly doesn’t have the leverage to crimp an Anderson plug. I tried. I ended getting a 10ton hydraulic crimper and it works great.
How long does it take the battery to charge up via the alternator?
I'm assuming you just used an add-a-circuit fuse tap to an ignition switched fuse for that ignition wire?
Absolutely.
Do a solder fill wire connection into Anderson prong instead of crimping. TH-cam it.
I have seen people do both. Crimping and soldering is the best but hydraulic crimping is actually what the factory does on most industrial fittings. Solder is good but over time can corrode and release where a crimp is pressure and should be good for a very long time.
Now with that being connected to your car battery will that charger thing switch off when the car is off so it’s not draining the crank battery? Or do you just unplug it when you get to camp?
No the DC-DC charger has a built in cut off when the truck is off.
@@AdventureBuilt ok cool wasn’t sure how those worked honestly. Been taking a look at a dual setup for camping in my forester and stuff had no idea about any of this stuff really. Well how it worked anyway 😂
How long did it take to get the KickAss unit from Australia? I’ve looked at them as well because of the pre finished terminals. Thanks!
It actually showed up in about 8ish days if memory serves me correct. Obviously shipping overseas will totally depend on numerous factors. It’s worth it.
How long can your fridge run off the batteries?
Do you have a link for the negative terminal block?
amzn.to/3l9ueR8
Good video. Do you have a link for the Amazon panel?
Thx. Which Amazon panel?
@@AdventureBuilt the one you had with the switch and cig chargers.
Nice video bud!
Thank you!!!
What size is the cable
I’m sorry I don’t remember. It might be on their website.
Does the DC to DC act like sn isolator??
It does. It can control the alternator input so the juice only flows in one direction. It can also toggle between solar and alternator picking the most powerful input. It’s pretty cool.
My cigarette plug was bad so I went straight to a fuse panel then the battery.
You need a step bit
And always hook up to primary power LAST!
Agreed!!!
any luck on that merch>?
Unfortunately no not yet. Busy time of the year. I know, I know!!!
@@AdventureBuilt any luck yet on merch?
@@overlandsauce still working on it. 😎
It's weird, I just install everything you do.
Haha so which one of us is the copy cat?
if you are not putting in engine bay , you can buy any MPPT ( Solar ) charger . use and save bunch of dollars , These Australian are expensive because they do not have any competition and lack of knowledge, people buys these , only advantage to the one you are using its water seal .
or to save more , use jackery 1000 or something like that , and connect with your any cigarette lighter output , everything is assembled in a one housing .
That is definitely one option. The difference with the MPPT is that you can’t charge your system off of you alternator only solar which is a drawback. I actually stared all this with a Jackery 500 and it works great but not easy to put the Jackery in a useable position in the back of my truck. You want to tuck it away because it’s so big but you still need to have access to the front for charging. I think is the best bang for the buck with lots of power and it’s very clean.
@@AdventureBuilt great , and please make a video how it goes with your setup , this will help everyone .thanks
Lol SNL right
Say kickass one more time...
Ok it might be a weird company name but it’s fun to say!!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@AdventureBuilt fair enough, I do like the name. You're an adventure mod channel, at least show people how to make the plugs up... You started the video fishing a huge plug when it's easily taken off...