For those of us that were biking in the early ‘80s, there was much controversy regarding BMW R handling. Bike magazine did several articles on the problem, even coming up with a slightly libellous nickname of “BM wobble you” due to the issue. The R80 and R100 were affected. If I recall correctly issue manifested itself on wet roads with the bike crossing white lines or cat’s eyes and was truly terrifying, resulting in a massive tank slapper and at least one journo sliding down the road on his arse. BMW improved the steering damper but never fully admitted to the problem. Improvements in tyres mitigated it (mostly) and I think there was a list of recommended tyres published. Just to let you know that the “headshake” has been known to full “slapper” with little warning. But with more modern tyres you should be fine.
I have read into this quite a bit. Some say it’s the OEM tires, some say the flimsy top yoke, others brace the forks lower down the sanctions and some go all out and brace the entire frame. My research leads me to think a combination of the damper, modern rubber and a stiffened up top yoke might do the job. There is only one way to find out. I’m very interested to see how this bike runs with the radial Classic Attacks.
@@WildlifeMoto Yes very much the OEM tyres… but in concert with many other small factors you mentioned . Thankfully the R45 and the R80 GS were unaffected and the K bikes had much altered… well… everything really. Loving the project and as always…be careful.
I'm just about old enough to remember this. I also recall that 'Telefix' fork braces were a popular mod to improve matters. Motorworks have stock at £156 for those interested.
My experience and that of my friends on the R90S & R100S was that as soon as you got down to 3mm tread on the rear tyre the bike would “white line”. As far as I remember it didn’t matter what tyre you had on, Conti, Michelin, Metzeler 🇬🇧
Nice work WM…thoroughly enjoying the vids as you progress..Xmas looks a good end date if all continues smoothly. A fellow YTuber called Teapot One currently has his new GS being given a professional ceramic coating..very interesting vid to view…the guy doing it has attention to detail that matches yours and to protect your bike and all your work I’d respectfully recommend you consider using that guy too if your funds can stretch at the end of your project..atb, Alan.
Fantastic job WM! Looks very nice. I noticed the old front shock nuts have a pressure release socket head cap screw on top of the nuts. Your new ones don’t. My 1982 Ducati Pantah has those but they are a countersunk hex screw, a small steel ball below a spring & an rubber seal for the screw. I found I need to undo these screws occasionally & always hear a “hiss” expelling from the forks. This is to remove cavitation & not blow out the fork seals. Does the Classic BM require this similar system process in the manual?
Hi Steve. The internal bolt on the OEM fork nut is just an oil filler hole with a small cap head bolt running through it. Handy, but not essential. Cheers 👍
Nice quality work, it’s looking awesome
Yoke defiantly looks nicer than the stock version, getting closer and closer to being a complete bike again. 👍
Incredible attention to detail...such an impressive rebuild WM!
Love this build, Keep the vids coming mate :)
Top job with the Top yolk Mr WM!!
The excitement is building !
Garhering pace now it seems. Excellent job sir.
Thanks mate. Really picking up pace now.
For those of us that were biking in the early ‘80s, there was much controversy regarding BMW R handling. Bike magazine did several articles on the problem, even coming up with a slightly libellous nickname of “BM wobble you” due to the issue. The R80 and R100 were affected. If I recall correctly issue manifested itself on wet roads with the bike crossing white lines or cat’s eyes and was truly terrifying, resulting in a massive tank slapper and at least one journo sliding down the road on his arse. BMW improved the steering damper but never fully admitted to the problem. Improvements in tyres mitigated it (mostly) and I think there was a list of recommended tyres published.
Just to let you know that the “headshake” has been known to full “slapper” with little warning. But with more modern tyres you should be fine.
I have read into this quite a bit. Some say it’s the OEM tires, some say the flimsy top yoke, others brace the forks lower down the sanctions and some go all out and brace the entire frame. My research leads me to think a combination of the damper, modern rubber and a stiffened up top yoke might do the job. There is only one way to find out. I’m very interested to see how this bike runs with the radial Classic Attacks.
@@WildlifeMoto Yes very much the OEM tyres… but in concert with many other small factors you mentioned . Thankfully the R45 and the R80 GS were unaffected and the K bikes had much altered… well… everything really.
Loving the project and as always…be careful.
I'm just about old enough to remember this. I also recall that 'Telefix' fork braces were a popular mod to improve matters. Motorworks have stock at £156 for those interested.
My experience and that of my friends on the R90S & R100S was that as soon as you got down to 3mm tread on the rear tyre the bike would “white line”. As far as I remember it didn’t matter what tyre you had on, Conti, Michelin, Metzeler 🇬🇧
Nice work WM…thoroughly enjoying the vids as you progress..Xmas looks a good end date if all continues smoothly.
A fellow YTuber called Teapot One currently has his new GS being given a professional ceramic coating..very interesting vid to view…the guy doing it has attention to detail that matches yours and to protect your bike and all your work I’d respectfully recommend you consider using that guy too if your funds can stretch at the end of your project..atb, Alan.
Thanks Alan. I’ll check it out!
Fantastic job WM! Looks very nice. I noticed the old front shock nuts have a pressure release socket head cap screw on top of the nuts. Your new ones don’t. My 1982 Ducati Pantah has those but they are a countersunk hex screw, a small steel ball below a spring & an rubber seal for the screw. I found I need to undo these screws occasionally & always hear a “hiss” expelling from the forks. This is to remove cavitation & not blow out the fork seals. Does the Classic BM require this similar system process in the manual?
Hi Steve. The internal bolt on the OEM fork nut is just an oil filler hole with a small cap head bolt running through it. Handy, but not essential. Cheers 👍
Did you adjust forks in X and Y axis?
No need, my stanctions were straight. Axle slipped in perfectly and nothing is binding.