Your a life saver! I took apart my 1988 Bianchi Premio bottom bracket and couldn't remember which way the spindle went. Your video and close-up camera work saved the day. It was exactly the same matching what I have with your bike @ 0:58 and @ 1:14. NICE WORK and CRACK ON!
This is one of the best videos on BB servicing Andy. Quick and to the point without any unnecessary fluff. Great job sir. Sorry to hear about Prince Phillip over in the UK
Another exceptional video, details and process step by step... to have the confidence in servicing my own bike is a plus....just keep adding to the tool collection...Good one Andy....another Canadian viewer watching your videos. My first bike was a BSA with semi droop bars. I left Scotland in my 20's...today at 64, cycling is my number one thing to do, and recently bought a mid 80's Bianchi Strada LX to restore.....with the help of all the techs that have worked/shown me many steps in repairing, and now adding the videos, an entire hobby has opened up......
Thanks for the words of support, I used to be based in Scotland for a few years in the Navy at Rosyth. Canada is a cool place though really enjoyed my time in Toronto. Restoring these bikes really is rewarding work, I am after a Bianchi myself to restore the Strada LX is a lovely model. be nice to see that done. Thanks again for sharing all the best Andy
Many thanks sorry there has not been as many restorations. Just about to build one up needed to get these done though. thanks again for the support Andy
2 points: Inspect the spindle while it's clean for any cracking, pitting or worn races. If any of these, replace the spindle. Same for threaded cups. Look where the bearings run - called the 'race" - inside with a bright light. Sometimes the chrome will peel on the races - replace the cup(s) if so. 2 - As the lock-ring is tightened, it will decrease the bearing pre-load. So, if you start with the bearing pre-load exactly right, once the lock-ring is secure, the pre-load will now be too loose. To get it exactly right, you need to start with slightly too much (1/8 turn +/-??) pre-load, then tighten lock-ring to reduce the preload. Same for any lock nut/cone bearing system - pedals, headsets, hubs, etc. Vintage all. Happy safe riding. 👍
Thanks for the words of support means a lot! I do have a Trek restoration on the go but yes of course more bicycle maintenance no problem. All the best Andy
😂yes, I bought a lot of my tools from an old bicycle shop which was closing down. I must admit the writing on the tool has reminded me about the opposite thread. Thanks for watching all the best Andy
Great detail Andy, I been restoring a 1973 Paramount with a very similar Campagnalo bottom bracket, this will help to reinstall the parts back on the frame precisely. Thanks for sharing
Thanks pal I look forward to seeing it. To be honest I have been really busy doing the website and I also have a bike build on the go. It will be nice to get back into the swing of doing restorations instead. Thanks for the support pal
Just the video I needed. I just got ahold of my dads 30+ year old Cannondale Series 3 race bike and it has an older Campagnolo crankset and I have no earthly Idea how to take off haha. Zero bike mechanic experience and I decided it would be fun to learn off this bike and restore it cause I hate the condition my dad left it in! Now I know I don't have any of the tools I need to do this hah..Time for some shopping...
Hello and thanks for watching, great to hear you are inspired to store your Dads bike 🚲 when I first started out I managed to do some of these fixes with tools 🛠 I had around the house. Have a look around my website on the section tools I use www.bikeituk.club thanks for watching and your comment all the best and good luck with the restoration 👍Andy
Buenas tardes,aún tenga tiempo estos vídeos, son muy útiles y explícitos para los que somos aficionados al ciclismo y por ende, su mantenimiento de equipo,
I am currently restoring a 1982 Raleigh Record and love watching your videos! I need to replace the bottom bracket races but I am struggling to find some with the correct thread; could you point me in the right direction or give me an idea of what the thread is? Thanks and keep up the great videos!!
At 3:02 it appears that the new bearings are being installed backwards on the spindle. If installed that way, the bearing "cage" rides on the tapered portion of the spindle, not the balls. The image at 1:39 briefly shows the original bearings in the correct position when the cup is removed. Otherwise, great video. It made my first time removing and lubricating a 3 piece crank very easy.
Andy, how do you deal with seized in brackets? I've been trying to get the BB out of my Peugeot but its so seized in. The plastic cup snapped off when I went at it.
Why is the fixed cup a lefthand thread, you would think it would unscrew itself with the chain wheel side turning clockwise. Your vid is the only one that tells you the torque setting for the centre nut on crankshaft..thanks.
Hi thanks for your comment, early Italian and French bottom bracket cups are a right hand thread. The left hand thread is also known as English. I’m unaware how the standard became left hand. 🤔🚲
very well explained andy.can't beat a liitle cleaning & greasing . i still have the tools for that bottom bracket service but doubt i will have to put them to use any more as both my bikes both have outboard cups. & my next addition will be prob be press fit . atb
+thegeordiefellwalker thanks for the comment, to be honest my three main rides all have new cups on. It’s nice I feel with some of these vintage bikes to keep them preserved. Great tools to keep hold of you never know when you may need them, so vital for any vintage bottom bracket. Thanks again Andy
Hi nice vid! I have a problem tho: even if I turn with my maximum power it won't come off I have a pretty good crank puller but it doesn't seem to be working
Thanks for your support glad you liked the video. If the crank puller is firmly located. Could you slide or attach a longer bar to enable better leverage 🤔I hope you understand what I mean, good luck
+martbaischful thanks for the supporting comment on the bottom bracket video. Not actually heard of framesaver but sounds like a product worth having. Thanks again Andy
Hi Andy :), good instructional video , great pace on the spoken words and clear instructions, sorry I had a rough week and hadn't been around am your 119 like :D cheers
+Nauj Aral your a star you don’t you worry about that! Hope everything is all good. Got loads of videos stacked up just need to get around to editing them! All the best pal 👍thanks
BikeIt UK thanks fir the kind words, happy to hear you got a bunch 8d vids coming up 👍🙂, working on a project but had to stop for about a week now nothing fancy just trying to retouch the frame like I've seen you do but not as skilled 😊 and then a simple build up, but am not sure 8f it's cause the frame is aluminum am having trouble my white paint becomes grey when it dries, mind you not sure how long had this frameset gone by without a decent wash/clean up.
How do you eliminate slack in the shifting cable for the rear mech on dual pivot rear derailleurs , those that have for and aft movement as well lateral & with a B screw?, I always seem to end up with a "lazy" slack cable at rest and a lot of slack to take up before shifting takes place between outer and inner sprockets , I have of course ruled out cable slippage and stretch and am talking about non index levers, any info appreciated !!
Thanks for watching and your support. Regarding your question I generally start by loosening any tensioning screws. With the gear cable slack I then use grips or pliers pull and hold the cable tight now with the other hand clamp up the cable. If needed I can take any slack out of the cable with the adjusters. I hope this makes sense and is some help to you. All the best Andy
Gracias por mirar y su apoyo. Veo que estas bicicletas son como el arte y deben preservarse para las generaciones más jóvenes. Todo lo mejor y gracias de nuevo Andy
Use of retainer has four cons: 1.Loses ONE bearing out of eleven. This is 10% loss of contact surface, resulting loss of propelling power transmission. 2.Wastes grease for rublication. Give maximum opprtunity to grease to contact with balls,cup and spindle. This is important in terms of heat radiation as well. 3. Limits free ball positioning. Not limitings the rotation though, balls want to travel freely in between two adjacent balls to respond the fluctuation of the force you input. 4. Can be a nest of rust. Balls are rotating dynamically but retainer is less. Bigger chance of rust. Quiting retainer and add one extra ball eliminates these. Use of long pincette to remove and align the balls takes additional two or three minutes of your time.
Nice work. Any particular reason, you don't replace vintage BB with the newer cartridge square taper ? I have 2 bikes remaining with vintage square taper BB's. I like the originality of the vintage BB, but maintenance wise, I'm looking at replacing those with cartridge BB. Thank you ?
Hi thanks for the comment regarding the reason. If your keeping the bike as much original as possible for preserving then yes I keep with the vintage type. If you are using the bike for regular use then yes agreed I would say a sealed bottom bracket is more practical 👍🚲
I have an early 80's Raleigh touring bike. When I opened the bottom bracket the drive side had 11 bearings (1/4'') while the other side had a cage bearing with 8 bearings (also 1/4''). There were also a couple loose bearings in between. Is this a common configuration or evidence of a repair? If it is not standard, should I replace with loose bearings or two cages?
There would normally be equal number of balls both sides. If caged - and they are the easiest - your thinking is done for you. Just get 2 sets of captive (caged) balls of the appropriate diameter and off you go. If you want to use loose balls, the method is to fill the race in finished configuration - meaning the balls are lined up where they are once installed with the spindle/cone - and then remove 1 ball for clearance. This is by far the better method for durability and smoothness. Loose balls allows you to use normally just about twice as many balls per race, reducing friction, wear and tear and increasing durability. Hint: for loose ball technique, use sticky grease to hold balls in place during installation. Tweezers are nice, too. Long ones.
Thanks for watching and your support. Regarding degreasing use any degreasing agent or failing that Petrol also works extremely well. I hope this helps
I'm working on an older campagnolo super record groupset from around '82. I've followed the steps in your video but I'm running into a little problem. When inserting the spindle into the whole assembly and tightening down i always get a bit of audible resistance somewhere, it's not running perfectly smooth, as if something is scraping just a bit. Maybe i just need to add even more grease? I have not replaced the bearings themselves and they are probably 35 years old at this point so perhaps this could be an issue as well although the bike has been sitting still for the last 30.
I’m unsure many are older tool now the most comprehensive bicycle tool supplier would be Park Tools 🛠 other than that maybe eBay. I hope this helps Andy
Hi first thanks for the comment of support. Regarding the Bottom Bracket if the Bicycle in question is after 1984 ish it’s a BSA British. Before this French or Italian. We have a load of PDF Vintage Peugeot bike catalogues available free of charge on our website BikeitUK.club 👍🚲 hope this helps good luck 😉 Andy
Hey Andy, First of all really love your channel and love vintage bikes ! So my freind has a vintage 1988 race bike, which I would like to buy to restore and resell. I have been a bike mechanic for 5 years so I have fairly good experience with bikes I would just like to know how much it is worth to see if the money necessary to restore it will pay off. So the bike is a Marinoni (handbuilt by Mr. Marinoni here in Québec, Canada) it has Columbus SLX tubing and has a Dura-Ace 7400 7 speed groupset ! I would need to get repainted and buy NOS shifters and brake levers, other than that it is all original Dura-Ace components (wheels, crankset, derailleurs, bearings, handlebar, brakes, pedals with leathers straps). Then there is chain and cassette which I don't know if it is worth putting Dura-Ace. So obviously it doesn't have the reputation of a Colnago or other big brand, but it is classic italian craftmenship at its finest ! So after all that is there a way you could help me evaluate the value of resell of this bike ? Thank you so much and keep up the great work, Vincent Cheers
It sounds like a bike that needs some special loving, such a high end bike like that and living in Canada you would be preserving Canadian heritage above all. If you are thinking of making a profit keep the costs down, i'd say tyres are a personal thing and high end gum wall tyres can cost over £100 alone. What ever you can keep and clean is a bonus. It all depends on what costs you are obtaining the bike for in the first place. Stripping a bike down and just replacing cables, bar tape, and new tyres are relatively cheap as you are aware. Cleaning is just your labour, resprays can be expensive but if you have a contact for this then you should be on to a winner. The cheaper you get the bike for and the more you can save and restore the more profit you'll gain, dont be ruled by your heart though if you intend to sell it on. Hope this helps Andy
BikeIt UK Thank you for the answer, to put it in original great condition there is about 800-900 CAD$ to put on the bike (including purchase price), do you think there is still room for profit as I see many Colnago equipped like this go for more than 2500$, or will I most probably sell it for less. Thanks
+Vincent Gariepy add this to the purchase price. It’s a shame and should be made criminal but people get more money for parts than having the bike all intact. It can be a gamble good luck
Hi, I watched your video from a while back on restoring the team Raleigh bike and I was wondering if you would be able to give me a list of components you used for it? I've got an old Raleigh europa that's been outside for 40 years and I'm just pricing things up for it before I start the restoration. Thanks
+Dan Watts sorry for the late reply regarding the Raleigh bike. Which team Raleigh Bike was it? I have done a few, ti team, Panasonic team and I think I’ve done a couple of Raleigh Bananas now also. All the best Andy
Be extremely careful with the crank removal tool to not get it cross threaded. Once that happens and if your lucky your only option will be attacking it from the other side with a punch tool and hammer.
+Simon Ashton thanks for the advice check out the Vintage Claud Butler Restoration video I did. In the video I show an alternative to using a crank puller. Thanks for watching Andy
What is the name of the 4 th tool. Please tell fast. I cant catch your pronounciation. Because i am weak in english. I need only that name. My repairing is blocked due to lack of that tool
+Cat Flap hello and thanks for the comment regarding your sizing I’m personally 6”. I’ve always cycled a 23” I would say old school sizing would be a 21.5” Frame which is a 54cm Frame these days. I hope this helps and good luck on finding your ride! All the best Andy
i have an old pinarello i wanted to do up, the cup on the drive side is just rotted solid, doesnt move no matter what, the pins on the pin tool just snapped of, maybe someone knows a fix on how to remove the bloody thing 😡😡😡😡😡
I generally use a vice to hold the tool in place and even a threaded rod to clamp 🗜 it on, the use the frame as leverage. I think 🤔 I show the technique in the Carrera Podium Restoration video. The other thought it’s Italian so unlike the rest of the world apart from early French Bike’s the Drive side is a normal anti clockwise to loosen. Good luck I hope this of the Carrera video information helps. I hope this helps good luck buddy keep smiling 😉🚲 old bike hay
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Your a life saver! I took apart my 1988 Bianchi Premio bottom bracket and couldn't remember which way the spindle went. Your video and close-up camera work saved the day. It was exactly the same matching what I have with your bike @ 0:58 and @ 1:14. NICE WORK and CRACK ON!
Thanks for your support and really happy the video helped you👍
This is one of the best videos on BB servicing Andy. Quick and to the point without any unnecessary fluff. Great job sir. Sorry to hear about Prince Phillip over in the UK
Thanks for your words of support and watching take care 👍
Another exceptional video, details and process step by step... to have the confidence in servicing my own bike is a plus....just keep adding to the tool collection...Good one Andy....another Canadian viewer watching your videos. My first bike was a BSA with semi droop bars. I left Scotland in my 20's...today at 64, cycling is my number one thing to do, and recently bought a mid 80's Bianchi Strada LX to restore.....with the help of all the techs that have worked/shown me many steps in repairing, and now adding the videos, an entire hobby has opened up......
Thanks for the words of support, I used to be based in Scotland for a few years in the Navy at Rosyth. Canada is a cool place though really enjoyed my time in Toronto. Restoring these bikes really is rewarding work, I am after a Bianchi myself to restore the Strada LX is a lovely model. be nice to see that done. Thanks again for sharing all the best Andy
Great video. Best video servicing a vintage BB
Thanks for the support much appreciated
Love how you nailed all the points in such a short video!
Thanks for watching and the support hope it was helpful ⚙️🔧👍
Great informative video. I like to ride and service my bikes. At times I am not sure which gives me the most pleasure. keep up the good work.
+MrDazp1 😂I know exactly what you mean it’s a win win situation. Only positivity comes from the bicycle whatever you are doing 👍🚲
Great video and many thanks since I was kind of scared to make astart, it that helped me to get my head around it.
Glad it helped thanks for your comment 👍
Andy....Great tutorial.
The way you explain the proces makes it simple and easy enough that anyone could perform this task.
Cheers from Canada.
Many thanks sorry there has not been as many restorations. Just about to build one up needed to get these done though. thanks again for the support Andy
2 points:
Inspect the spindle while it's clean for any cracking, pitting or worn races. If any of these, replace the spindle. Same for threaded cups. Look where the bearings run - called the 'race" - inside with a bright light. Sometimes the chrome will peel on the races - replace the cup(s) if so.
2 - As the lock-ring is tightened, it will decrease the bearing pre-load. So, if you start with the bearing pre-load exactly right, once the lock-ring is secure, the pre-load will now be too loose. To get it exactly right, you need to start with slightly too much (1/8 turn +/-??) pre-load, then tighten lock-ring to reduce the preload.
Same for any lock nut/cone bearing system - pedals, headsets, hubs, etc. Vintage all.
Happy safe riding.
👍
Huge thanks for this much appreciated, thanks for watching all the best
More maintenance videos, please. You have good content and great presentation, the two main keys for teaching. Thanks.
Thanks for the words of support means a lot! I do have a Trek restoration on the go but yes of course more bicycle maintenance no problem. All the best Andy
Like the unlock arrow written on the 🔧😉
😂yes, I bought a lot of my tools from an old bicycle shop which was closing down. I must admit the writing on the tool has reminded me about the opposite thread. Thanks for watching all the best Andy
Absolutely brilliant, well explained and makes it look easy .
Hope it helps all the best
Thank you for the tool names. Now I have to go buy them to continue
You're welcome, thanks for watching I hope you found the video helpful. All the best Andy
Thanks - this was very helpful for me working on an old Peugeot, first time I'd ever done this.
+Simon Prickett really glad it’s helped. The bottom bracket was alway in area I used to steer clear of. Glad it was of help! All the best Andy
excellent video
Thanks for your support
cheers Andy, very informative. I would also add which way the bearings go onto the spindle but this is clearly visible on the video.
+pavdude13 thanks for the comment it was an after thought to be honest thanks for the support Andy
thank you so much - I love these old style bottom brackets - they seem to run so much smoother than modern gear
You're welcome, I hope it helps all the best happy peddling
Great detail Andy, I been restoring a 1973 Paramount with a very similar Campagnalo bottom bracket, this will help to reinstall the parts back on the frame precisely. Thanks for sharing
Thanks pal I look forward to seeing it. To be honest I have been really busy doing the website and I also have a bike build on the go. It will be nice to get back into the swing of doing restorations instead. Thanks for the support pal
Just the video I needed. I just got ahold of my dads 30+ year old Cannondale Series 3 race bike and it has an older Campagnolo crankset and I have no earthly Idea how to take off haha. Zero bike mechanic experience and I decided it would be fun to learn off this bike and restore it cause I hate the condition my dad left it in! Now I know I don't have any of the tools I need to do this hah..Time for some shopping...
Hello and thanks for watching, great to hear you are inspired to store your Dads bike 🚲 when I first started out I managed to do some of these fixes with tools 🛠 I had around the house. Have a look around my website on the section tools I use www.bikeituk.club thanks for watching and your comment all the best and good luck with the restoration 👍Andy
Perfect, just what I needed mate
Glad it helped 👍
Buenas tardes,aún tenga tiempo estos vídeos, son muy útiles y explícitos para los que somos aficionados al ciclismo y por ende, su mantenimiento de equipo,
gracias por tu comentario y apoyo perdón por la respuesta tardía
thank you so much, I like the way you show the tools for the right job
Thank you for tuning in and watching I hope they help you in your own cycle 🚲 maintenance. All the best Andy
Just watched 3 of your videos and they were great, have subscribed
Thanks for your comment and support more videos coming very soon 👍🚲🚲
I am currently restoring a 1982 Raleigh Record and love watching your videos! I need to replace the bottom bracket races but I am struggling to find some with the correct thread; could you point me in the right direction or give me an idea of what the thread is? Thanks and keep up the great videos!!
Search on eBay 2 X BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS Axles 1/4" Std Caged Races hope this helps
At 3:02 it appears that the new bearings are being installed backwards on the spindle. If installed that way, the bearing "cage" rides on the tapered portion of the spindle, not the balls. The image at 1:39 briefly shows the original bearings in the correct position when the cup is removed. Otherwise, great video. It made my first time removing and lubricating a 3 piece crank very easy.
Glad it helped you, all the best 👍
Andy, how do you deal with seized in brackets?
I've been trying to get the BB out of my Peugeot but its so seized in. The plastic cup snapped off when I went at it.
You and RJ The Bike Guy should do a " How To" video together. Both of yall have my favorite bike channels on all of TH-cam.
Thanks we have chatted on messenger...maybe one day a bit of water between us at the moment
Why is the fixed cup a lefthand thread, you would think it would unscrew itself with the chain wheel side turning clockwise. Your vid is the only one that tells you the torque setting for the centre nut on crankshaft..thanks.
Hi thanks for your comment, early Italian and French bottom bracket cups are a right hand thread. The left hand thread is also known as English. I’m unaware how the standard became left hand. 🤔🚲
very well explained andy.can't beat a liitle cleaning & greasing . i still have the tools for that bottom bracket service but doubt i will have to put them to use any more as both my bikes both have outboard cups. & my next addition will be prob be press fit . atb
+thegeordiefellwalker thanks for the comment, to be honest my three main rides all have new cups on. It’s nice I feel with some of these vintage bikes to keep them preserved. Great tools to keep hold of you never know when you may need them, so vital for any vintage bottom bracket. Thanks again Andy
Hi nice vid! I have a problem tho: even if I turn with my maximum power it won't come off
I have a pretty good crank puller but it doesn't seem to be working
Thanks for your support glad you liked the video. If the crank puller is firmly located. Could you slide or attach a longer bar to enable better leverage 🤔I hope you understand what I mean, good luck
This helps me alot. Thank you so much for the info. Just a newbie 😊
Thanks for watching and really glad it helped 👍
Great vid. Would add, that once the BB is out its a good opportunity to spray framesaver into the down tube, seat tube and chain stays
+martbaischful thanks for the supporting comment on the bottom bracket video. Not actually heard of framesaver but sounds like a product worth having. Thanks again Andy
BikeIt UK boeshield T9, is another great product to protect steel tubes from internal corrosion
Great video, helped me to maintanance my own bike. Thanks
Really happy this video has helped you service your bottom bracket 👍🚲 all the best happy cycling 🚴♀️
That is a superb video. Thanks for posting. I might have a go at this...
Thanks and I hope it helps you. All the best Andy
Hi Andy :), good instructional video , great pace on the spoken words and clear instructions, sorry I had a rough week and hadn't been around am your 119 like :D cheers
+Nauj Aral your a star you don’t you worry about that! Hope everything is all good. Got loads of videos stacked up just need to get around to editing them! All the best pal 👍thanks
BikeIt UK thanks fir the kind words, happy to hear you got a bunch 8d vids coming up 👍🙂, working on a project but had to stop for about a week now nothing fancy just trying to retouch the frame like I've seen you do but not as skilled 😊 and then a simple build up, but am not sure 8f it's cause the frame is aluminum am having trouble my white paint becomes grey when it dries, mind you not sure how long had this frameset gone by without a decent wash/clean up.
How do you eliminate slack in the shifting cable for the rear mech on dual pivot rear derailleurs , those that have for and aft movement as well lateral & with a B screw?, I always seem to end up with a "lazy" slack cable at rest and a lot of slack to take up before shifting takes place between outer and inner sprockets , I have of course ruled out cable slippage and stretch and am talking about non index levers, any info appreciated !!
Thanks for watching and your support. Regarding your question I generally start by loosening any tensioning screws. With the gear cable slack I then use grips or pliers pull and hold the cable tight now with the other hand clamp up the cable. If needed I can take any slack out of the cable with the adjusters. I hope this makes sense and is some help to you. All the best Andy
شكراً جزيلاً
نرحب بك رعاية
Muy bien explicado, me fascinan las bicicletas y mas las de ruta antiguas
Gracias por mirar y su apoyo. Veo que estas bicicletas son como el arte y deben preservarse para las generaciones más jóvenes. Todo lo mejor y gracias de nuevo Andy
Use of retainer has four cons:
1.Loses ONE bearing out of eleven. This is 10% loss of contact surface, resulting loss of propelling power transmission.
2.Wastes grease for rublication. Give maximum opprtunity to grease to contact with balls,cup and spindle. This is important in terms of heat radiation as well.
3. Limits free ball positioning. Not limitings the rotation though, balls want to travel freely in between two adjacent balls to respond the fluctuation of the force you input.
4. Can be a nest of rust. Balls are rotating dynamically but retainer is less. Bigger chance of rust.
Quiting retainer and add one extra ball eliminates these. Use of long pincette to remove and align the balls takes additional two or three minutes of your time.
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
+Chris Mad thanks for watching and the support Andy 👍
Buen vídeo espero que hagas uno de ajuste de frenos y centrado de ruedas hasta pronto
Nice work. Any particular reason, you don't replace vintage BB with the newer cartridge square taper ? I have 2 bikes remaining with vintage square taper BB's. I like the originality of the vintage BB, but maintenance wise, I'm looking at replacing those with cartridge BB. Thank you ?
Hi thanks for the comment regarding the reason. If your keeping the bike as much original as possible for preserving then yes I keep with the vintage type. If you are using the bike for regular use then yes agreed I would say a sealed bottom bracket is more practical 👍🚲
Thanks for the info. Could I change the entire bottom bracket with a modern one ?
Thanks for watching the answer to your question is yes, you can swap this over
7EL axle is for 73mm bb shell?
Hi, im a newbie cyclist. Is it compatible with those new through axle bottom brackets?
This method is for Vintage retro bottom brackets
How did you manage to re-install it without putting so much pressure on the crank set???
Use the tool to apply opposite pressure, I hope this makes sense thanks for watching
I have an early 80's Raleigh touring bike. When I opened the bottom bracket the drive side had 11 bearings (1/4'') while the other side had a cage bearing with 8 bearings (also 1/4''). There were also a couple loose bearings in between. Is this a common configuration or evidence of a repair? If it is not standard, should I replace with loose bearings or two cages?
There would normally be equal number of balls both sides. If caged - and they are the easiest - your thinking is done for you. Just get 2 sets of captive (caged) balls of the appropriate diameter and off you go. If you want to use loose balls, the method is to fill the race in finished configuration - meaning the balls are lined up where they are once installed with the spindle/cone - and then remove 1 ball for clearance.
This is by far the better method for durability and smoothness. Loose balls allows you to use normally just about twice as many balls per race, reducing friction, wear and tear and increasing durability.
Hint: for loose ball technique, use sticky grease to hold balls in place during installation. Tweezers are nice, too. Long ones.
thanks for making these great videos! what would you suggest cleaning the bottom bracket with?
Thanks for watching and your support. Regarding degreasing use any degreasing agent or failing that Petrol also works extremely well. I hope this helps
How is it more efficient, with loose balls or caged balls?
I think with caged bearings it’s just easier to install. Thanks for watching
Thanks andy, love the vids👌
Thanks Nick for the support many more to come
Andy, great video, could you do a needle bearing headset clean and install? can you change to a caged bearings?
No reason why not i'll make a note thanks for the support Andy
I'm working on an older campagnolo super record groupset from around '82. I've followed the steps in your video but I'm running into a little problem. When inserting the spindle into the whole assembly and tightening down i always get a bit of audible resistance somewhere, it's not running perfectly smooth, as if something is scraping just a bit. Maybe i just need to add even more grease? I have not replaced the bearings themselves and they are probably 35 years old at this point so perhaps this could be an issue as well although the bike has been sitting still for the last 30.
Can that old bottom bracket be upgraded to use hollow tech bottom bracket?
Yes it can be upgraded 👍 thanks for watching
hi I took the axis and found that there is a different length on each side to the right side so I put the longer axis is it right?
Yes the longer part on the right the drive side or the crank arm. I hope this helps happy peddling 👍🚲all the best Andy
Can you buy all these required tools in a complete package anywhere .
I’m unsure many are older tool now the most comprehensive bicycle tool supplier would be Park Tools 🛠 other than that maybe eBay. I hope this helps Andy
Great videos!!! Have a question though... What type of bottom bracket shoould I look for a Peugeot premier of 1980's??? English or the Italian one?
Hi first thanks for the comment of support. Regarding the Bottom Bracket if the Bicycle in question is after 1984 ish it’s a BSA British. Before this French or Italian. We have a load of PDF Vintage Peugeot bike catalogues available free of charge on our website BikeitUK.club 👍🚲 hope this helps good luck 😉 Andy
Any link for the tools used?
No sorry I should do a video on all the tools I use watch this space
@@BikeItUK That would be amazing if you could please! I have the same bike and need to change the bottom bracket
Hey Andy,
First of all really love your channel and love vintage bikes !
So my freind has a vintage 1988 race bike, which I would like to buy to restore and resell. I have been a bike mechanic for 5 years so I have fairly good experience with bikes I would just like to know how much it is worth to see if the money necessary to restore it will pay off.
So the bike is a Marinoni (handbuilt by Mr. Marinoni here in Québec, Canada) it has Columbus SLX tubing and has a Dura-Ace 7400 7 speed groupset ! I would need to get repainted and buy NOS shifters and brake levers, other than that it is all original Dura-Ace components (wheels, crankset, derailleurs, bearings, handlebar, brakes, pedals with leathers straps). Then there is chain and cassette which I don't know if it is worth putting Dura-Ace. So obviously it doesn't have the reputation of a Colnago or other big brand, but it is classic italian craftmenship at its finest !
So after all that is there a way you could help me evaluate the value of resell of this bike ?
Thank you so much and keep up the great work,
Vincent
Cheers
It sounds like a bike that needs some special loving, such a high end bike like that and living in Canada you would be preserving Canadian heritage above all. If you are thinking of making a profit keep the costs down, i'd say tyres are a personal thing and high end gum wall tyres can cost over £100 alone. What ever you can keep and clean is a bonus. It all depends on what costs you are obtaining the bike for in the first place. Stripping a bike down and just replacing cables, bar tape, and new tyres are relatively cheap as you are aware. Cleaning is just your labour, resprays can be expensive but if you have a contact for this then you should be on to a winner. The cheaper you get the bike for and the more you can save and restore the more profit you'll gain, dont be ruled by your heart though if you intend to sell it on. Hope this helps Andy
BikeIt UK Thank you for the answer, to put it in original great condition there is about 800-900 CAD$ to put on the bike (including purchase price), do you think there is still room for profit as I see many Colnago equipped like this go for more than 2500$, or will I most probably sell it for less.
Thanks
+Vincent Gariepy add this to the purchase price. It’s a shame and should be made criminal but people get more money for parts than having the bike all intact. It can be a gamble good luck
thx
Can you do a tutorial on how to fix chrome parts, for example a fork. If you want pictures on my fork just ask.
Hero.
Thanks for the support
What is the special tool called at 2:00 ?
Same i need to know too
I think i found it - hcw-4 36mm crank bottom bracket wrench pin spanner
Hi can i know the name of the tool ( beside the green grease )
Do a nishiki funny bike next!
Hi, I watched your video from a while back on restoring the team Raleigh bike and I was wondering if you would be able to give me a list of components you used for it? I've got an old Raleigh europa that's been outside for 40 years and I'm just pricing things up for it before I start the restoration. Thanks
+Dan Watts sorry for the late reply regarding the Raleigh bike. Which team Raleigh Bike was it? I have done a few, ti team, Panasonic team and I think I’ve done a couple of Raleigh Bananas now also. All the best Andy
Be extremely careful with the crank removal tool to not get it cross threaded. Once that happens and if your lucky your only option will be attacking it from the other side with a punch tool and hammer.
+Simon Ashton thanks for the advice check out the Vintage Claud Butler Restoration video I did. In the video I show an alternative to using a crank puller. Thanks for watching Andy
Y didn't U pack bearings with grease??
Once I slide the bearings over the spindle I then pack in the grease. 👍 Thanks for watching all the best Andy
What is the name of the 4 th tool. Please tell fast. I cant catch your pronounciation. Because i am weak in english. I need only that name. My repairing is blocked due to lack of that tool
awsome channel..just subbed...can you help me out on bike sizing..looking for a 80s bike i am 5ft/11..tall what frame size would fit me ...thanks
+Cat Flap hello and thanks for the comment regarding your sizing I’m personally 6”. I’ve always cycled a 23” I would say old school sizing would be a 21.5” Frame which is a 54cm Frame these days. I hope this helps and good luck on finding your ride! All the best Andy
Tool tool tool,where can I get them?i live in tanzania?
eBay Amazon maybe? Thanks Andy
I am not so keen on shoping online...dont you have an argent in east africa or tanzania?
You never put grease at the spindle ends, where the crank engages.
Didn't pack bearings either
Pack the bearings with grease, not just the cups and axle.
i have an old pinarello i wanted to do up, the cup on the drive side is just rotted solid, doesnt move no matter what, the pins on the pin tool just snapped of, maybe someone knows a fix on how to remove the bloody thing 😡😡😡😡😡
I generally use a vice to hold the tool in place and even a threaded rod to clamp 🗜 it on, the use the frame as leverage. I think 🤔 I show the technique in the Carrera Podium Restoration video. The other thought it’s Italian so unlike the rest of the world apart from early French Bike’s the Drive side is a normal anti clockwise to loosen. Good luck I hope this of the Carrera video information helps. I hope this helps good luck buddy keep smiling 😉🚲 old bike hay
😮😮😮😮
Thanks for watching
First
Ha ha Thanks for watching Andy