@@JourdainColemangonna be a dick sorry , Johnny is no bad ,but there is better ways to do tubeless set ups ,no cigar just yet ,keep learning Johnny you'll get there 😉
Another great video J. The commentary made it so easy to follow and understand exactly what's going on step by step. Well done again Johnny. Thank you for sharing.
Hey there. I have this exact same frame/handlebar combo along with Lightcarbon wheels, purchased in early 2021. It's been a pleasure to ride, looks great (I did a custom paint job), and their customer service was excellent. I'm about 100kg and nothing is creaking or coming loose. I don't have an endoscope so it was encouraging to see your examination of the interior. I think you're going to be really happy with this purchase. My groupset is a mashup of 105 disc, Ultegra cassette and front derailleur, and chinese crankset (thanks TraceVelo). Enjoy!
Nice video. But the o-ring of the valve is not for sealing. It is for protecting the rim when tightening the nut. Are is trapped above the rim bead (tyre compartment). The hollow compartment of the rim shouldn't be pressureised, so a seal not needed. When the internal compartment of the rim is under pressure it can explode.
Have same frame. 2400 km so far. No issues so far. I'm using GRX 400 2x10 and still aluminum wheels. Hope it will be changed in the future. Waiting for your impressions after few rides 👍
@JourdainColeman does Jonny recommend any threadlock on the headset compression plug? I've had a minor issue requiring a little tightening to stop a rattle developing. Is this just things settling in?
When are we going to see you riding these bikes? I'd love to watch you riding the gravel bike and giving us your impressions. I've been riding tsunami seaboard gr02 alloy gravel frame for about a year, with sram 2x11 so I'd like to hear more about these caebon gravel frames ❤
Hey man, hopefully some good reviews of the bikes and how they feel will be coming soon. I'm struggling for time at the moment and when i do have time, the weather has been rubbish!
To make sure tyres go on OK (many don't) I use the technique of putting half of one side of the tyre into as much of one side of the rim then do the same for the other side using the other half of the tyre. Its like a mirracle experience especially if you previously spent days without luck!😂
@@JourdainColeman well there is tension created especially on where the tyre crosses over ffrom one tensed side to the next. The result is the tyre has no gaps before inflating....I learnt the trick from this chap..th-cam.com/video/tE3h4nmDdOo/w-d-xo.html
@@Broodjemetbeleg You'd only get aluminium (frame and unwelded wheels), no GRX but SRAM, and 1 kg heavier... But that's also the choice I made, although with Cube.
Brilliant, well done on the video and editing 👀👌👍. I was soooo looking forward to this video, however I never contemplated how much technical, precise work and time that's required 😬. The satisfaction of completing it would be immense🤔 although it depends on the price difference of my dream gravel bike vs this 😂...... Oh and I'm disappointed it wasn't you building it 😜 and I "borrow" my father's tools also and haven't handed them back yet 😳
Ps I pump up the tyres sealent free first to bed them, then put the sealant in through the valve with tube or small bottle nossle. Then you get no waste/spillage 👍
@@scottmccann4509 I've done tubeless different ways, originally I've pumped up the tyre dry to seat it, then added sealant with a small sealant bottle and/or an injector, especially in the early days of road tubeless. I found the way I do it here works all the time. When the sealant has bits like Stans No tubes race sealant and Silca Ultimate sealant you can't inject it through the valve. So the only way is how I've done it here.
It was great to see the bike coming together! Johnny smashed it out the park 💪🏼 When I built the Elves Falath Pro it took me 3 days just to build because of the recording whilst building. Moving the camera constantly then trying to get good shots. Which Johny it takes a day to get the bike built and all the footage, so I can bring you guys more videos. Hopefully one day I'll be sat in the garden with loads of time on my hands building bikes at the most leisurely pace, nicking more of my dads tools 😂😂
Awesome video, This inspired me to start my own build! Which ParkTool grease do you use? And do you use the same grease of the seatpost or do you use Carbon paste for extra grip?
36:56 “easy”???? Johnny has a different definition of easy than I do 😅. After watching this video, I’m sure there is absolutely no way I’d be able to do this. I’ve got so much respect for pro mechanics like Johnny!
When buying a socket / cup type tool to install this type bottom bracket (ie one with Shimano notches) , be aware that the outer edge of the "teeth" in most examples of this type of tool, are chamfered ie they slope away from the outer edge of the tool, this means the width of the teeth that engage in the notches in the screw-in type bb like Jourdain has, is reduced but more importantly, because the lip on the screw-in bb is so thin, the notches are also very thin and so the teeth in the socket cup barely reach the notches, consequently when torquing up the two halves of the bb, the socket cup teeth easily slip off the notches and in so doing round off the edges of the bb notches, making it even more likely that the socket cup will slip off the notches. I speak from experience. It's a bit like trying to undo a tough nut on a bolt with only half the width of the spanner jaws in contact with the nut. It's best to use a spanner type of bb tool like Jourdain's mechanic mate did, the teeth on these spanners are not chamfered and whether open or closed jaws, engage the full width of the notches in the lip of the bb and are less liable to slip, provided you keep lots of pressure on the face of the tool.
4:03 do you mean symmetrical instead of asymmetrical? Or am i wrong here? If they are asymmetrical how can they be installed either way? The logic in my head is not adding up but i might be missing something :)
Hi - just got mine and noticed dork steerer tube is almost 50/50 fiberglass to carbon - does yours have this? Bit worried it looks thinner than your in the video also
I'm working on this frame right now and I discovered that the dust cap on the headset is touching the frame, and that's before preloading it. Did you have any issues with that? I'm thinking about installing an 8mm bearing on the top instead of the 7mm one that is provided with the bike. That should solve the issue I think. Less destructive than sanding down the dust cover. Any suggestions?
@@mikenolan7524 It's pretty easy to see. If you turn the bars and you see the cover on the top of the frame rubbing the paint, it's not good. There should be a small gap, otherwise you will be scratching it up. Check top and bottom of the headset to see if there is a gap on both sides. There should be zero rub. Possible solutions: higher bearings (make sure to get the right dimensions/angle) or adding metal spacers on top of the existing ones. If you can't get the play out of the headset when tightening it up and steering becomes hard you're clearly pushing the plastic cover against the frame since the bearings sit too low in the cups.
13:34 one of my biggest fears is if I come to this weird island and rent a bike I will definitely mix up road sides and front and rear brakes when tired and not paying attention. 😨
Hello Mr Coleman, I have one question. I'm considering purchasing this frame, and I wanted to ask if you would still recommend it to someone? Have there been any updates or changes to its quality and performance that I should be aware of? Additionally, I’m interested to know if you have encountered any specific issues with the frame and how you managed to resolve them. Your insights would be really helpful in my decision on whether I should buy this frame or not. Thank you!
You need a long square drive allen hex bit for the brake levers to bars. Not very expensive but get the right size. An alternative fix is to grind the two ends off the right size key and put one end in the appropriate socket. Not so neat and it will cost an allen key set.
Hello jourdain, how tall are you and what frame size did you choose? I would like to buy the same frame. Please tell us also which dimensions you choose for the handlebar. Greetings from Italy.
Jourdain, after I saw your video I ordered the same frame from Jim. Thank you and your mechanic for the excellent build video. I'm creating a parts list, but wondered what the specs are for the "special" bolts you had to find and use for the rear caliper? TIA 😀
Hey, I only had to hunt for bolts because I bought the brake calipers secondhand. I have bought them new in the past and they come with loads of bolts for all scenarios. I hope all goes well with your build 👍🏽
And for budget build, we start to using the 2 or 2.3 mm steel plate 6 bolts rotor, it's only 3 or 5 usd on store, it's durable and has no heat decay or deform problem. the weight is not a main problem. It's just like expensive sandwich rotor after long distance down hill : the noise is tooo annoyed. cheap steel plate rotor: wat?
How's the brake performance with the integrated cables on the handlebar and using mechanical brakes? Just worry bout the bends of the housing affecting braking performance for mechanical disc brakes. Thinking of a build. Thanks!
The braking has been good. To be honest I have built around 5 bikes now that all have internal cable routing and all have been ok (mechanical and hydraulic). It's a pain to install but works ok 👍🏽
Thanks for another great video! One quoetion tough, I recently build my own bike and decided not to put grease between the freehub and cassette, but I noticed you did that? What is the purpose of putting grease there, to my understanding it should be avoided since a lot of dirt can be collected there?
I went with a size 52 and and I'm 5ft 9 inches. I had a full bike fit which you can see here - th-cam.com/video/EnGSLC9FtNI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zTdWLF9oBaRF6aqh - I rode a 54 before the bike fit and went down to a 52 after the bike fit. 👍🏽
@@jamescourier1545 The Frame link is here - www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-new-gravel-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p170.html It was around £500 (custom paint was another £100) - Here is the frame unboxing/review video - th-cam.com/video/-NYsVBXBj2o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wD31wi_DIlKDAr2S
Hey Jourdain! Thanks for the video! I'm just about to re-build my VB-R-168 using the Jagwire Pro cables (2x mechanical gears and Juin Tech brakes) and have a question around how you installed your read derailleur cable. Did you just route it as a 1 piece cable all the way from the shifter straight in to the mech, or did you use any of the extra 'flexible extensions' that come with the kit either on the shifter and bars or directly in to the rear derailleur? For the cables as they exit the stem and enter the frame, how much slack did you leave to ensure they're not super tight and rub against the headset spacers?
Hey man. Nice, informative build. Did what size cassette are you using? Did you use an hanger extender? LC is recommending an additional hanger extender if you want cassette's like 11-50. I just don't get why I would need that as long as my derailleur is long enough (gx eagle axs for example)
11-46T cassette || 42T Chainring - 42T - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004275196889.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.5cf61802P1XKAm We didn't need a hanger extender. I guess you could give it a try and see. If they are recommended in then no harm in using one 👍🏽
Does it matter how the brakes cabling is routed... left or right for front and rear... my front brake is on the left.. my MTB it's the opposite... on a German brand. Silver back
I've not managed to give it a good hammering yet on the gravel! The weather is much better now in the UK so hopefully I'll have a better review coming soon. The miles I have done it feels solid as a rock. The bar angle is really nice as well, and feels very natural.
Carbon is great is youre racing but steel frame gravel feels great to ride, a bit heavier by a few kilos but its comfier because the frame flexes to absord some of the bumps and the frame will probably last till you die unless it rusts ofcourse.
There's no need to pour sealant before sitting a tire. First pump your tire and add sealant through the valve after. Less messy in case something goes wrong.
I mean, I understand why the brake rotors don't come with locking nuts. Anyone replacing their brake rotors rather than installing them for the first time shouldn't have a need for them. I know when I replace brake pads on my car I just replace the rotors with them, and I'm sure there are actually people who do the same with their bikes.
I bought a new set of wheels and needed the lock rings... Shimano rotors come with the ring. Just make sure you have the right one if you have 15 mm axles...
After watching this video I know why these trader like to sale the cheap component to outboard market... over twice times price than inboard online store.
Carbon what? Where do you want to ride, what do you want to ride, how often do you want to buy new frames? This should be included in the decision. And here carbon can be the worst decision !!!
Phenomenal video!! Loved it. Thanks for taking the time to go through each step and explain it… fascinating to watch a master mechanic at work.
Glad you enjoyed the video!! Johnny is a legend. 👍🏼
@@JourdainColemangonna be a dick sorry , Johnny is no bad ,but there is better ways to do tubeless set ups ,no cigar just yet ,keep learning Johnny you'll get there 😉
You're the hero we need
I'll stick with inner tubes. I don't wanna deal with any of that stuff.
Amateur
@@GiovanniGiovi-h3wokay pookie.
U know inner tube is like easier and cheap to get when you not living in the us
@@GiovanniGiovi-h3w Sorry but you are assuming people when It's THEIR OWN OPINION. Please do not say negative things about opinion comments.
Another great video J. The commentary made it so easy to follow and understand exactly what's going on step by step. Well done again Johnny. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed my friend! 👍🏽
Hey there. I have this exact same frame/handlebar combo along with Lightcarbon wheels, purchased in early 2021. It's been a pleasure to ride, looks great (I did a custom paint job), and their customer service was excellent. I'm about 100kg and nothing is creaking or coming loose. I don't have an endoscope so it was encouraging to see your examination of the interior. I think you're going to be really happy with this purchase. My groupset is a mashup of 105 disc, Ultegra cassette and front derailleur, and chinese crankset (thanks TraceVelo). Enjoy!
Excellent work 👌🏾. Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏾
Thanks man, glad you enjoyed the video
Awesome video mate! Love the colour of the frame. It all came together pretty good!
Cheers man! I really enjoyed the frame frame and build... lovely looking bike overall 👌🏼
Really helpful especially on cable routing! Thanks.
You build again very nice bike for a reasonable price. Nice color . 👍
Bottom bracket press for 50pounds - what a fancy name for a threaded rod with two washers
the cups are very useful thought, you want the press to be at exactly 90 degree angle relative to the BB shells
Nice video. But the o-ring of the valve is not for sealing. It is for protecting the rim when tightening the nut. Are is trapped above the rim bead (tyre compartment). The hollow compartment of the rim shouldn't be pressureised, so a seal not needed. When the internal compartment of the rim is under pressure it can explode.
Thanks fro the info! That makes total sense. 👍🏽
Have same frame. 2400 km so far. No issues so far. I'm using GRX 400 2x10 and still aluminum wheels. Hope it will be changed in the future. Waiting for your impressions after few rides 👍
Awesome to hear that the frame is working well fro you! I can't wait to head out on this bike
@@JourdainColeman Hey Jourdain, any ride impressions to share?
This is an incredibly comprehensive video. Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
Really enjoyed this one, love your presentation style. Great job.
Glad you enjoyed!
Another quality offering Jordain 👌
Thank you Glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏽
@JourdainColeman does Jonny recommend any threadlock on the headset compression plug? I've had a minor issue requiring a little tightening to stop a rattle developing. Is this just things settling in?
When are we going to see you riding these bikes? I'd love to watch you riding the gravel bike and giving us your impressions. I've been riding tsunami seaboard gr02 alloy gravel frame for about a year, with sram 2x11 so I'd like to hear more about these caebon gravel frames ❤
Hey man, hopefully some good reviews of the bikes and how they feel will be coming soon. I'm struggling for time at the moment and when i do have time, the weather has been rubbish!
I ride SKs and I HIGHLY recommend switching to SK+ as they have better puncture protection.
A few people have mentioned this... I'll check them out. I had these tires laying around so it made sense, but that's no good if I get punctures. 👍🏽
I was just wondering where you got the paint because they look amazing!!
Nice timing, I'll be going through this process in a month's time when all my parts arrive. Useful to have this for reference.
Glad you enjoyed... good luck with your build as well!! 👌🏼
amazing video. im honestly so surprised that you dont have at least 500k subscribers lol
Thanks man, hopefully one day 👌🏼
To make sure tyres go on OK (many don't) I use the technique of putting half of one side of the tyre into as much of one side of the rim then do the same for the other side using the other half of the tyre. Its like a mirracle experience especially if you previously spent days without luck!😂
I see... so half one side, then half the other side... then just push both sides on. I guess the tension is spread out between both sides.
@@JourdainColeman well there is tension created especially on where the tyre crosses over ffrom one tensed side to the next. The result is the tyre has no gaps before inflating....I learnt the trick from this chap..th-cam.com/video/tE3h4nmDdOo/w-d-xo.html
Looks great. Good job. If I had one comment, it would be that a Canyon would be about the same amount of money.
Yeah I would honestly rather get a grizl with grx or sram for around the price. With the added benefit of hydraulic brakes and warranty.
@@Broodjemetbeleg You'd only get aluminium (frame and unwelded wheels), no GRX but SRAM, and 1 kg heavier...
But that's also the choice I made, although with Cube.
Brilliant, well done on the video and editing 👀👌👍. I was soooo looking forward to this video, however I never contemplated how much technical, precise work and time that's required 😬. The satisfaction of completing it would be immense🤔 although it depends on the price difference of my dream gravel bike vs this 😂...... Oh and I'm disappointed it wasn't you building it 😜 and I "borrow" my father's tools also and haven't handed them back yet 😳
Ps I pump up the tyres sealent free first to bed them, then put the sealant in through the valve with tube or small bottle nossle. Then you get no waste/spillage 👍
@@scottmccann4509 I've done tubeless different ways, originally I've pumped up the tyre dry to seat it, then added sealant with a small sealant bottle and/or an injector, especially in the early days of road tubeless. I found the way I do it here works all the time. When the sealant has bits like Stans No tubes race sealant and Silca Ultimate sealant you can't inject it through the valve. So the only way is how I've done it here.
It was great to see the bike coming together! Johnny smashed it out the park 💪🏼 When I built the Elves Falath Pro it took me 3 days just to build because of the recording whilst building. Moving the camera constantly then trying to get good shots. Which Johny it takes a day to get the bike built and all the footage, so I can bring you guys more videos. Hopefully one day I'll be sat in the garden with loads of time on my hands building bikes at the most leisurely pace, nicking more of my dads tools 😂😂
Awesome video, This inspired me to start my own build!
Which ParkTool grease do you use?
And do you use the same grease of the seatpost or do you use Carbon paste for extra grip?
36:56 “easy”???? Johnny has a different definition of easy than I do 😅. After watching this video, I’m sure there is absolutely no way I’d be able to do this. I’ve got so much respect for pro mechanics like Johnny!
I have never used a steel cutting hacksaw blade on carbon fiber tubes. I use a carbon cutting saw blade.
When buying a socket / cup type tool to install this type bottom bracket (ie one with Shimano notches) , be aware that the outer edge of the "teeth" in most examples of this type of tool, are chamfered ie they slope away from the outer edge of the tool, this means the width of the teeth that engage in the notches in the screw-in type bb like Jourdain has, is reduced but more importantly, because the lip on the screw-in bb is so thin, the notches are also very thin and so the teeth in the socket cup barely reach the notches, consequently when torquing up the two halves of the bb, the socket cup teeth easily slip off the notches and in so doing round off the edges of the bb notches, making it even more likely that the socket cup will slip off the notches. I speak from experience. It's a bit like trying to undo a tough nut on a bolt with only half the width of the spanner jaws in contact with the nut. It's best to use a spanner type of bb tool like Jourdain's mechanic mate did, the teeth on these spanners are not chamfered and whether open or closed jaws, engage the full width of the notches in the lip of the bb and are less liable to slip, provided you keep lots of pressure on the face of the tool.
4:03 do you mean symmetrical instead of asymmetrical? Or am i wrong here? If they are asymmetrical how can they be installed either way? The logic in my head is not adding up but i might be missing something :)
Hi - just got mine and noticed dork steerer tube is almost 50/50 fiberglass to carbon - does yours have this? Bit worried it looks thinner than your in the video also
I'm working on this frame right now and I discovered that the dust cap on the headset is touching the frame, and that's before preloading it. Did you have any issues with that? I'm thinking about installing an 8mm bearing on the top instead of the 7mm one that is provided with the bike. That should solve the issue I think. Less destructive than sanding down the dust cover. Any suggestions?
For who cares: I installed an 8mm headset bearing on top and it's perfect now
I am wondering if this might the cause of a problem I am having. I have assembled the bike, but I cannot remove the free play in the headset.
@@mikenolan7524 It's pretty easy to see. If you turn the bars and you see the cover on the top of the frame rubbing the paint, it's not good. There should be a small gap, otherwise you will be scratching it up. Check top and bottom of the headset to see if there is a gap on both sides. There should be zero rub. Possible solutions: higher bearings (make sure to get the right dimensions/angle) or adding metal spacers on top of the existing ones.
If you can't get the play out of the headset when tightening it up and steering becomes hard you're clearly pushing the plastic cover against the frame since the bearings sit too low in the cups.
Great video, i also ordered one. Which cable you taped to the fork?
The front brake cable is taped to the fork 👍🏽
Thanks!
Nice work! What is the frame size?
PSA: the cost of tools is not so bad if you build about 50 bikes a year like Jourdain does
😂😂 It seems that was haha - I need to start racking u the miles!
Servicing the Headset will be an nightmare, won't it? You need to loosen all the cables, but they are under the bar tape?
All maintenance is becoming a PIA...
13:34 one of my biggest fears is if I come to this weird island and rent a bike I will definitely mix up road sides and front and rear brakes when tired and not paying attention. 😨
Hello Mr Coleman, I have one question. I'm considering purchasing this frame, and I wanted to ask if you would still recommend it to someone? Have there been any updates or changes to its quality and performance that I should be aware of? Additionally, I’m interested to know if you have encountered any specific issues with the frame and how you managed to resolve them. Your insights would be really helpful in my decision on whether I should buy this frame or not. Thank you!
Hey Ivan, have you purchased the frame? Because i‘m also considering buying this frame?
You need a long square drive allen hex bit for the brake levers to bars. Not very expensive but get the right size. An alternative fix is to grind the two ends off the right size key and put one end in the appropriate socket. Not so neat and it will cost an allen key set.
That's a good idea! I'll have a look for a long Allen key. They are normally 5/6mm so only need to get a couple. 👍🏼
Hello jourdain, how tall are you and what frame size did you choose? I would like to buy the same frame. Please tell us also which dimensions you choose for the handlebar. Greetings from Italy.
th-cam.com/video/-NYsVBXBj2o/w-d-xo.html
176cm and I went with the size 52 frame. The bars are 9cm stem and 38cm wide 👍🏽
Great looking bike at a decent price.
Agreed!
Jourdain, after I saw your video I ordered the same frame from Jim. Thank you and your mechanic for the excellent build video. I'm creating a parts list, but wondered what the specs are for the "special" bolts you had to find and use for the rear caliper? TIA 😀
Hey, I only had to hunt for bolts because I bought the brake calipers secondhand. I have bought them new in the past and they come with loads of bolts for all scenarios. I hope all goes well with your build 👍🏽
Yessss I'm a legend apparently
And for budget build, we start to using the 2 or 2.3 mm steel plate 6 bolts rotor, it's only 3 or 5 usd on store, it's durable and has no heat decay or deform problem. the weight is not a main problem.
It's just like
expensive sandwich rotor after long distance down hill : the noise is tooo annoyed.
cheap steel plate rotor: wat?
Interesting that your front f1 fit a 160mm disc. I had to install a 180mm with the 160mm adapter as many others. 🤔
How's the brake performance with the integrated cables on the handlebar and using mechanical brakes? Just worry bout the bends of the housing affecting braking performance for mechanical disc brakes. Thinking of a build. Thanks!
The braking has been good. To be honest I have built around 5 bikes now that all have internal cable routing and all have been ok (mechanical and hydraulic). It's a pain to install but works ok 👍🏽
Thanks for another great video! One quoetion tough, I recently build my own bike and decided not to put grease between the freehub and cassette, but I noticed you did that? What is the purpose of putting grease there, to my understanding it should be avoided since a lot of dirt can be collected there?
Great video, very informative ❤
What size frame did you go with & how tall are you if i may ask? 😀
I went with a size 52 and and I'm 5ft 9 inches. I had a full bike fit which you can see here - th-cam.com/video/EnGSLC9FtNI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zTdWLF9oBaRF6aqh - I rode a 54 before the bike fit and went down to a 52 after the bike fit. 👍🏽
@@JourdainColeman excellent. Do you have a link to the frame that you built up? I am interested in looking at the geometry & may consider buying! ❤️
@@jamescourier1545 The Frame link is here - www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-new-gravel-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p170.html It was around £500 (custom paint was another £100) - Here is the frame unboxing/review video - th-cam.com/video/-NYsVBXBj2o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wD31wi_DIlKDAr2S
would you have went with hydraulic brakes in hindsight?
Now I would get hydraulic! Much better overall 👌🏼
Hello, do you think it'd be possible to install hydraulic brakes? or the internal routing is too tight?
Just finished a build with hydraulic brakes, there is enough room, no problem.
Hey Jourdain! Thanks for the video! I'm just about to re-build my VB-R-168 using the Jagwire Pro cables (2x mechanical gears and Juin Tech brakes) and have a question around how you installed your read derailleur cable.
Did you just route it as a 1 piece cable all the way from the shifter straight in to the mech, or did you use any of the extra 'flexible extensions' that come with the kit either on the shifter and bars or directly in to the rear derailleur?
For the cables as they exit the stem and enter the frame, how much slack did you leave to ensure they're not super tight and rub against the headset spacers?
So you cut fork on second mark (lower)?
10m roll of bar tape @2:10 isn't what you should be using on your rim for tubeless set up 🤣
U will if you do double wrap which can come in needy at higher PSI.
@@hkchew03 you didn't read my comment correctly
😂 hahah - I said bar tape instead of rim tape. Nothing like some prime comfort bare tape around each rim #addedcomfort
Hey man. Nice, informative build. Did what size cassette are you using? Did you use an hanger extender? LC is recommending an additional hanger extender if you want cassette's like 11-50. I just don't get why I would need that as long as my derailleur is long enough (gx eagle axs for example)
11-46T cassette || 42T Chainring - 42T - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004275196889.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.5cf61802P1XKAm
We didn't need a hanger extender. I guess you could give it a try and see. If they are recommended in then no harm in using one 👍🏽
Does it matter how the brakes cabling is routed... left or right for front and rear... my front brake is on the left.. my MTB it's the opposite... on a German brand. Silver back
More expensive than I though, might as well go for a canyon Grizl. Brilliant video though.
There's something to be said for building up the bike yourself...
If you hv the tools and the patience u can do it yourself
Aluminium, 1-2 kg heavier...
Hi J, any news on first ride impressions? Off-road on road? Fit TIA
I've not managed to give it a good hammering yet on the gravel! The weather is much better now in the UK so hopefully I'll have a better review coming soon. The miles I have done it feels solid as a rock. The bar angle is really nice as well, and feels very natural.
Carbon is great is youre racing but steel frame gravel feels great to ride, a bit heavier by a few kilos but its comfier because the frame flexes to absord some of the bumps and the frame will probably last till you die unless it rusts ofcourse.
My curiosity, how much did you pay to assemble this bike?
do they do a CX frame also???
I believe they do, here is a list of gravel CX - www.lightcarbon.com/cyclocross-gravel_c27
19:48 bodge!
There's no need to pour sealant before sitting a tire. First pump your tire and add sealant through the valve after.
Less messy in case something goes wrong.
I mean, I understand why the brake rotors don't come with locking nuts. Anyone replacing their brake rotors rather than installing them for the first time shouldn't have a need for them. I know when I replace brake pads on my car I just replace the rotors with them, and I'm sure there are actually people who do the same with their bikes.
I bought a new set of wheels and needed the lock rings...
Shimano rotors come with the ring.
Just make sure you have the right one if you have 15 mm axles...
When will elves make a gravel frame
I emailed them a while back. Supposedly debuting in May.
@@davidgarza2267 yoo 👀
👀
thx so now i have to build my bike there is no other option for me
😂😂
The first thing to do is drop the 1x leg wrecking drivetrain. big gaps between the sprockets absolutely stupid.
Tubeless is so 2022 😁👴
After watching this video I know why these trader like to sale the cheap component to outboard market... over twice times price than inboard online store.
Carbon what?
Where do you want to ride, what do you want to ride, how often do you want to buy new frames? This should be included in the decision. And here carbon can be the worst decision !!!
Your wife is literally parked up on the couch 24/7.
Why do people think integrated handle bars fun? Looks so stupid.
#WTB 50.8mm wide rounded like a motorcycle racing tyre on a 29" set of custom rims.