Belt too small? What worked for me was everything you said accept. Loop the bottom wheel 1st. Then take off the top wheel & loop around. Then put it back on the post..Much easier than threading it the opposite way..
Thanks Andy. I was given one of these machines and had to take off the handwheel and clean the shaft so the bobbin winder would work. Success thanks to you.
Wow, you were right on.. Thank you for the great demo. This is exactly my machine. I have been using it over 50 years and it's been a great machine. The original belt was stretched out and slipping sometimes and my new projects were getting hard to do. I got my belt from a "Singer" dealer on Amazon. Loved your comments on how beautiful it was..made me smile..It has been very dependable for sure! from baby cloths to wedding dresses to quilts to repairing heavy materials.
Congratulations! It must sew like a new machine again. Thanks for keeping it in service all these years. It would be hard to find a good replacement that you liked as much. It's kind of you to take the time to leave such a nice comment so thank you very much.
Andy, I have adjusted the belt per your excellent instruction at my 416 and I can continue to make face masks for my family. Thank you so much from Canada. Stay safe
@@mariavan7110 That's great you can do it just take your time and you'll have that belt in before you know it thanks for the nice comment and good luck
Thanks again for your videos, Andy! This was the last one I needed to watch - the final piece of the puzzle, if you will - that allowed me to finally resolve my problem and get my machine running smoothly. The hand wheel just could not be turned after a certain point as the tension on the belt just got too high. I had already completely loosened the tension peg off of the belt, so it was as slack as I could make it. I ultimately diagnosed that the teeth on the belt at that point in the rotation had ever so slightly gone out of sync with the teeth of the driveshaft gear and were riding up / out slightly, making the belt tension too tight to turn. The belt was inside the machine (Graduate model 712) and beyond my current skill set to remove and replace, so instead - inspired by this belt video extravaganza - I tried to flip the belt so the back (smooth) part of the belt would be on the gear, avoiding the misaligning teeth issue. As I did so, however, a fabric lining inside the belt started to peel off leaving only the bare rubber teeth behind. For a lark, I removed the rest of the fabric lining and put the belt back, teeth still inward, onto the gear and gave it a shot: Voila…the hand wheel turned freely all the way around, the teeth remained aligned and in place throughout its rotation, and my problem was solved. I realize that the life of the belt may now be somewhat shortened without the fabric lining, but the machine is sailing along and sewing great, at least for now. I guess removing that thin layer was just enough to resolve the belt tension trouble. Thanks again, Andy.
That is some intuitive troubleshooting. Nicely done! I don't know about the cloth piece, but if the teeth on the belt are not slotted completely into their slots that for sure would cause a lot of problems, including hesitation and stoppage. You made the belt slack though, so maybe you are on to something with the cloth piece. I'm not familiar with the model you mentioned, but happy if the video gave you something to work with. I'm glad you got it back in service. Thanks for the comment. Happy New Year.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the recognition and for repairing your own machine. I have about 50 more videos for your machine if you ever have other issues or want to do a complete restoration. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html Includes the foot controler too. Happy sewing
Hi, what size and provider did you use for your 338 machine? I just followed this tutorial to replace mine but it seems that the belt is too small. Even with maximum slack adjustments the motor has a hard time. Thank you for all these very usefull videos!
Oh my goodness thank you so much, sir. You helped me breath new life into my dear old mom's Singer 447, she's happy as can be. If ever you need a scan of the original instruction manual showing all greasing spots etc, let me know and I'll gladly do it for you. My mom kept the manual as good as new!
Awesome information Andy! This video has much more information than the title suggest. I looked everywhere for the clutch installation at 10:00 and how to size your belt at 38:27 Should've watched this right away
I'm glad it helped you with what you needed. I can add info into the description area which TH-cam tells me they use when searching. Thanks for letting me know. Take care.
Thank you for this video. I have had problems too about getting the right lenght of the belt. I was actually ashamed of it, because it may seem unprofessional. But now even you got the same problems, so now I feel better :)
You should feel better. Working with vintage machines is a never ending learning experience I think. If you only knew how many belts, bobbin cases, tension parts, etc. I ordered only to find they would not fit the model I was working on. Thank you for watching my channel and taking the time to comment.
Very helpful video. Thanks, Andy! Speaking of not so great new products for vintage machines, I recently bought a new lead cord for my 338. Looks like the one you have there. Mine also has trouble sliding on to the 3 pins. In fact, mine barely fits on at all and loses connection at the slightest bump. Also, the foot pedal cord and outlet cord are on opposite sides than they are on the original cord. The original plug that goes into the machine fits like a glove. Thinking of splicing the original onto the new cords. Shouldn’t have to do that after buying a new one that’s supposed to fit.
Welcome, Mildred. I've had that problem with new cords for years. I'll do almost anything to save the original vintage cords. When I must buy new I usually have to use a sharp knife to "shave" down the plug for proper fit to the machine. If the holes of the plug don't match the pins in the machines there is nothing you can do. Sometimes the holes are too small a diameter and I've had to "enlarge" the holes by forcing something into the holes that is a tiny, tiny bit bigger. That gets tricky b/c if you enlarge the hole too much the plug is loose on the pins. When saving a vintage cord I have replaced the wall plug end and that is easy. When the pedal was shot I removed the cord end from it and wired it into the new foot pedal which sometimes needs some modification. With cords that were caught in vacuum cleaner rollers and had bits of insulation chewed off leaving some bare wire showing, if the wires themself are OK I use liquid electrical tape and paint it over the bare wires.
Hi Andy, Thank you so much for this information. I just ordered several 196386 belts from luilovebug. I'll be so glad to get belts that fit for the 457.
Thank you for this great video. I learned a lot about my Singer 413. I still have a problem. No matter how tightly or loosly I set the motor tension the pulley doesn't want to spin. I can turn it with the hand wheel but the motor might spin the pully but then stops. Any video for this?
This may be a foot pedal problem. It may have never been cleaned and adjusted. It may pass through enough power to turn the handwheel only, like in bobbin winding mode, but not enough power to turn the pulleys, belts, and shafts, etc. Here is a playlist for the foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
Actually, the foot pedal doesn't turn the hand wheel but the pulley will turn if I turn the hand wheel by hand. I do see the motor moving with the foot pedal. If I give the hand wheel a good turn while using the foot pedal, the hand wheel goes a bit & then stops.
@@jeannestpierre9658 With the machine in BOBBIN WINDING MODE as shown in the manual where you disengage the handwheel from the armshaft for winding the bobbin the motor should easily turn the handwheel at high speed. If you can see the motor "moving" I guess you mean you can see the motor pully turning? If that is true the motor belt should be turning the handwheel. If it is not then there is truly something wrong. Either the belt is loose or the wrong type of belt, there is oil on the belt/ motor pulley, handwheel pulley, or something like that.
Singer had proprietary screw sizes on many of their vintage machines so you had to have them repair the machine. If you can give me the model number of your sewing machine, I can look up the parts list for the part number of the screw and try searching that for sellers on eBay, Etsy and online sewing supply shops
@@jeannestpierre9658 Please read my comment again. I'm asking you for the MODEL NUMBER of your sewing machine. If you give me that I will find the parts number for the screws. Once I have that I may be able to give you screw size information or direct you to where you can buy replacement screws, but I need the MODEL NUMBER of your machine.
From your latest comment, it seems you have a model 413. The end cover screws are two different lengths. They have proprietary screw threading, meaning not standard thread counts. You'll need to find vintage ones and this seems the best available right now: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html It includes the cover which you don't need, but at least you'll have the screws.
I want to replace the belt on my singer 348 but can't figure out how to get the oil pan cover off. It looks just like the one in this video but can't get the screw to turn. Do I need to loosen it (turn left) or right to tighten it? Your video is very helpful and I am hoping to be able to replace the belt. Thank you in advance.
Oh duh...there was no nut so I was able to turn and remove the washer which allowed me to remove the bottom plate. Live and learn! The sewing machine repair shop wanted $235 to replace the belt ($37 for the belt plus labor and a "tune up") so hoping I can replace the belt and do a little maintenance myself. Thank you!
The washer is another type of nut. It has threads and one side has a slot for a regular screwdriver. I knew you would find that out, but explaining for the others who read your comment.
@@an2n3t I ordered the same belt Andy used in the video for my Singer 348. It was too small and no amount of stretching, weights, etc. helped. I ended up buying a universal stretch belt 913-15 inches) on Amazon, 2 for $8.00. Worked great! My machine is operable again thanks to Andy's explanations and the new belt. Good luck! (P.S. I also order an orange cog belt from Amazon which I have not received yet but don't plan to try to use it now.)
A good question, Sharon, but they are actually cogged motor belts and not the timing belts you are thinking of. There are some Singer models, and many other brands of machines have models, that use a cogged motor belt. Here is a Singer model 353 that uses a cogged motor belt b/c the handwheel had the matching notches th-cam.com/video/6ko4EW_qky4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
So I guess your machine has a push-button reverse like in the video? The mechanism is a combination of plastic & metal parts. There are springs inside that should push the button back upon letting it go and that is supposed to release the reverse parts so you sew normally. The spring/spring could have broken. The parts could just be stuck from grit and dust. I've had luck with releasing the reverse by taking the top, bottom, and motor cover plate off and blasting hot air from a hair dryer all around the parts area. Sometimes punching on the button you can feel and see a little movement to get an idea of what parts should move and I concentrate on those. I have also applied a little sewing machine oil to the parts. Other than taking more and more parts off the machine to isolate the problem the heat/oil has been successful for me over 1/2 the time. Be patient. If you can read the model number on the machine you can buy/download a service manual from an online seller like this one: manualsoncd.com/ they are usually less than $10 or so. If you ask them they often will have the parts manuals also, Most service manuals have a section for removing the "Feed Regulator" which is what we are talking about here. On these types of machines, the model number is usually on the front above or below the regulator. You can also take a look at these instructions from the Singer website about where to find model numbers on their machine www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model That's all I have for you, Natasha. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I think tightening the belt is going to work but when I tested the motor, the needle and feed dogs would move. What adjustment should I concentrate on?
Hi Andy, Please could I ask some advice? The plastic pulley has come loose and keeps coming off on a Singer 338 motor. What would you use to fasten it back on? Thank you!
While earlier models from Singer had pulleys with a very small set screw in the valley of the pulley, later models used a "push-on" type of pulley with no screw. So, if the push-on pulley is loose the normal repair would be to replace the pulley. Here in the US I buy them from this seller for $10 www.ebay.com/itm/381505731207?epid=204729156&hash=item58d3837a87:g:sJsAAOSwSdZWg1UY I have bought from this seller for years and he is trusted by me. Good products at fair pricing. If that is not an option for you I suppose you could use an epoxy type glue and fill the hole in the pulley and push it back on the motor shaft. Perhaps something like JBWeld www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-twin-tube It has a strong tensile strength and can take 500+ Degrees F heat. The motor belt and pulley get very warm at times. I buy it at Amazon www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE The problem with gluing it on is if you ever need to replace it your stuck (haha) so for me, for $4.00 more, I'd install a new pulley.
@@andytubesewing1953 Many thanks for your speedy response Andy. I am in the UK so I will have a look for the pulley you mention over here. With the pulley that is coming off there is a metal sleeve inside it with ridges on that I assume was glued to the inside of the pulley and then the metal sleeve pushed onto the pulley. That metal sleeve just slips out of the plastic. Your help is always much appreciated.
@@kerry5586 That is the compression sleeve I think and don't know if you can fix it maybe? I'm sure there are sellers in the UK for the pulley as it is common on most of the 200, 300, & 400 series of Singer machines, Part 604367 , 605011-001
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the part number Andy. The compression sleeve has a split in it - is that part of the design so it can be opened out or made smaller or is that a fault do you know?
@@kerry5586 I never looked at it that closely, TBH. As a paid restorer my choice was always a new part (when available) versus trying to repair a defective part. If the cost is prohibitive to you you could try gluing the sleeve back into the plastic pulley and see if it grips the shaft enough to work.
Sorry, Andrew but I don't work on T & S machines, but Terry does and here is his T & S 700 page with some free documents plus repair and service manuals for sale site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html Terry gives my viewers 20% off anything they buy before 8-1-2020. There may be other places to buy T & S manuals also. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you, booked marked. I actually found it myself. There is a screw the goes through the side of the wheel by the belt cogs, on the inner side of the machine.
I've never worked on the 477 but looking at the parts diagram it has a BW system I am familiar with and have videos for on the model 337. This video shows the access to the BW tire after removing the top cover, handwheel, motor belt cover, and front panel. th-cam.com/video/4mmZdFPqSIk/w-d-xo.html (BW @14:00) This video shows how to install the parts of the BW th-cam.com/video/r6m2QvUJDmo/w-d-xo.html Those videos are part of a series you can find here if you need help removing handwheel, etc th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html Your bobbin won't move? You mean under the needle? The bobbin just unspools the thread as the HOOK grabs it. I'm thinking your hook is not rotating around the bobbin case(holder) and I'm thinking that is b/c the plastic top gear on the vertical shaft has broken. Your 477 is in a group of about a dozen models that are internationally known for a failed top gear. They are 50 years old and dried out brittle plastic. The gear costs about $10 and I made a step-by-step video (long) about replacing that gear on a model 457, which is similar to your machine, but not exactly the same. Here is that video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html anything else?
I have a singer model 247. It was my grandmother's. The top vertical gear is broken. I've watched your videos, but it's no front cover. How do I get to top gear to screw in New gear in place?
This is the gear change video you mention: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html In the comments section of that video, Medrano Prado Enrique and Courtney Stewart made comments about changing the gear on a 247. In my replies, to them, I also have links to where you can buy the Service Manual for model 247. Other viewers have written that they removed some of the other parts on the machine to get access to the gear, such as the feed regulator and feed rock/lift shafts, etc. and they used the manual to see how to remove those parts. I don't have time to search 10K emails, but the theme was the same. They either drilled a hole to get a screwdriver in there or removed parts to the handwheel side to get a screwdriver in there. I've never even seen a 247 in person so I can't tell you off-hand the steps to take to replace the gear. In some models of Singer, the manual says to remove the entire horizontal shaft and everything connected to it then remove the gear/shaft out the top of the machine. That is a difficult and time-consuming method so viewers have found work-around methods to avoid that.
How to know measurement of the motorbelt, i have a singer 1263 and i want to change the motorbelt.my motorbelt was broke and dont know how to measure it
Here is a trusted seller who has the belt for your machine. www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-Sewing-Motor-Belt-193066-196388-250-252-257-259-262-288-293B-611-900/380452495174?hash=item5894bc5f46:g:ibAAAOxyIMhRGS-t He states the measurements and also explains how you can measure your machine to verify the belt size. I have bought many belts from him.
It depends on your definition of "good". IMO, any vintage SInger sewing machine is "good" and very capable of sewing domestic items. They can sew from delicate lace to heavy denim, canvas, and garment leathers. I have bought 40-year-old machines that had the original belt and, after adjusting the tension, still sewed normally. I figure if you sewed a couple hours every day a new belt would last 10 years at least. Some of the machines have a plastic gear at the top of the vertical shaft that is known to fail, but it fails after many years and costs $10 and a couple hours to replace it. It should last 20 to 30 years under normal use that the machine is made for. You can buy vintage Singer machines that have all metal shafts, levers, pitman shafts or gears that can easily last for 100 years. Some of the machines have a direct drive motor meaning no motor belt or timing belt. Models 15-90, 15-91, 101, 201, 301, 401, 403, 404, 500, 503 are that way. Those machines are more heavy-duty than the machine in this video, but they were still sold as a "Domestic" or household machine. My grandparents used a 15-90 on the farm for everything from clothing, bedding, curtains, overalls, overcoats, raincoats, canvas bags and awnings, and even repairing some leather harnesses. So I'd say yes. a metal vintage Singer with a belt is a "good" machine, and at the price you can buy one for, it will out sew and outlast many of the modern plastic machines that cannot be repaired at all. Just choose one that fits your sewing needs. I have over 450 videos on my Playlist page covering quite a few models. You could poke around thru some of the videos to get an idea of the different models and what they are like. Here is the link to my Playlist, and thanks for watching my channel; th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy. You did a great job answering the question which should have been phrased better. I have heard a lot about all metal machines and was not sure about this machine with belts. Good to know these machines have value too.
Thank you and glad if it was a good answer. I can often find a machine like this for $25 to $50 and after restoration sell it for $125 to $175 depending on attachments, case or cabinet. I sell most of this type to younger people who are learning to sew, bought a similarly priced new machine that broke after a couple of months, or they want to hem denim jeans and the modern machine they bought won't do that. Some people buy them for when to go to their summer home and just want a dependable machine on hand. I have donated a few to women's shelters and they get well used there and I seldom get a call to fix one. Thanks again for watching my channel.
Not sure what you are looking for, Maruk. Did you mean an electrical measurement? Or how the motor runs by itself? Let me know please, and we will figure it out. Thanks for watching.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have a stylist 478 and the motor have a hard time to turn the small pulley as if some one is holding the big pulley on the machine even when the locking wheel is unlocked, so is it the load the machine putting on the motor or the motor is not getting enough current to run, it does hum and turn a litle if helped by turning the larg pulley by hand. I see you turn the wheel very easily mine is little stiff ofcourse it har for you to tell without accutally feeling it . Thanks again.
If I was working this machine I would loosen or remove the motor belt. You can loosen or remove the screw as shown @ 4:45 in the video. When you put the machine in bobbin winding mode the motor should only be turning the handwheel, nothing else and the motor should run very fast b/c it is only turning that handwheel. To be honest, I'm thinking you have a foot pedal problem and motor is not getting full power from the foot pedal and that makes it hum and strain when starting. It is very common on a machine this age that the foot pedal needs cleaning and adjusting. I made a full series about how to restore the foot pedal to normal operation. You may want to look at a couple of those videos to see if you think your problem is not the motor, but a defective foot pedal. Here is the series for the clamshell foot pedal th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank youvery much Andy, I just received an electronic foot pedal from Shop-Sew-Classic, once I put it together I will give it a try. and then I will watch your series to repair the clamshell foot pedal. thank you aain for being patient with me and answering me with the solution. thanks a million,
That's a good plan and no worries about me answering questions. Your questions are very normal and if I can help then I am happy. Let me know how it turns out, please. Good luck.
I normally either give to charity or sell locally on Craiglist. phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-singer-model-353-genie-zigzag/7452495943.html phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-singer-heavy-duty-all-metal/7453074024.html phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-beautiful-singer-model-301-sewing/7452214051.html
Saya tidak mengenali nomor model itu di sini di AS. Silakan lihat halaman ini di Singer tentang di mana menemukan nomor model; www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model Saya tidak dapat menemukan gambar nomor model itu secara online. Silakan posting fotonya di channel Anda atau beri kami beberapa link ke gambar yang Anda temukan online.
It is normal to find "stuck" screws on vintage machines. You did not mention your brand or model number so I'll give you a general opinion. If you believe there is rust on the screw/machine then treat the screw with a rust remover. I use "The Must for Rust", and like that I can buy just an 8 oz bottle: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor Another very popular product is "Evaporust": evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust/ If you do not find any rust, then you can use oil. SMO (sewing machine oil) is fine. You can try a penetrating oil if you have any. I still use WD-40 at times even if some say it does not penetrate it works for me. Some people have luck putting a screwdriver into the screw and giving the handle a sharp rap with a small hammer to "break free" the screw. th-cam.com/video/LSU7Ua7xyuY/w-d-xo.html I have used a hair dryer to warm the screw, let it cool, warm, cool, etc. to expand and contract the screw and handle trying to loosen the screw. What I found the most important is patience. I have had to soak screw 2 or 3 days before I could get them free. For a handwheel screw, I would take off the arm and nose covers and stand the machine on its nose if possible. Then the oil can penetrate straight down on the screw. Then 3 or 4 times a day add a drop of oil to the screw and try in the evening to remove it. If it was still stuck then oil overnight and try in the morning and so forth. I have never had a screw that would not come out. I did snap-off a motor cover screw by being impatient and forcing it. That proved to me that patience is the best practice. Good Luck. Thanks for watching Andy Tube
My sewing machine is same as on this video Singer 413. Unfortunately we couldn't unscrew wheel screw. I will need to change this part as we cut it😕 I've changed motor belt. Now it's another problem. One of the shafts is cracked. Have you got any video how to replace them? Thank you
Your 413 is one of about a dozen Singer models known to have a weak top gear on the vertical shaft. I made a video specifically about how to change that gear. It takes some time to do, but the gear is usually less than $10. The rest of the machine is good and strong so it is worth the effort. I have almost 14K views of the gear video now so you can see you are not alone with this problem. Here is the link to the video and good luck, Holly: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
OK, thank you. You don't say, so I assume you removed the stop motion screw and clamp and you just have the handwheel stuck on the counterbalance it sits on. There is nothing else holding it on, like another screw or anything. It is common that the handwheel gets stuck on the counterbalance because of dried oil or grease. You can apply a penetrating oil at the front and rears edges of the wheel where it sits on that counterbalance. You can apply heat with a hairdryer. The idea is to soften the dried gunk and get the wheel to twist on the counterbalance. It can take time and a few applications of oil. If you're in a hurry and it is still stuck you can give the wheel a sharp rap with a rubber mallet to give it a "shock" and break it free. Don't damage the wheel of course. In very severe cases I have used a chisel between the counterbalance collar and the back of the handwheel to pry it loose.
Un saluto, Andrea. Mentre ci avviamo verso un altro nuovo anno, è un ottimo momento per imparare qualcosa di nuovo! Ecco due brevi video che mostrano come cambiare la lingua "CC" (sottotitoli chiusi) sui video di TH-cam. Funziona su quasi tutti i video di TH-cam. Usando questi metodi puoi cambiare la lingua CC in italiano molto facilmente. cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli Computer: come cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli su TH-cam? th-cam.com/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/w-d-xo.html Telefono Android: come cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli sull'app TH-cam th-cam.com/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/w-d-xo.html Grazie per aver guardato il mio canale.
Belt too small? What worked for me was everything you said accept. Loop the bottom wheel 1st. Then take off the top wheel & loop around. Then put it back on the post..Much easier than threading it the opposite way..
Oh, I am pinning this to the top of the comments. Can't wait for another tight belt to try it out. Thanks for sharing on my channel.
Thanks Andy. I was given one of these machines and had to take off the handwheel and clean the shaft so the bobbin winder would work. Success thanks to you.
I'm glad you found the video, Julia. Thanks for keeping that nice machine in service. Happy sewing.
Wow, you were right on.. Thank you for the great demo. This is exactly my machine. I have been using it over 50 years and it's been a great machine.
The original belt was stretched out and slipping sometimes and my new projects were getting hard to do. I got my belt from a "Singer" dealer on Amazon. Loved your comments on how beautiful it was..made me smile..It has been very dependable for sure! from baby cloths to wedding dresses to quilts to repairing heavy materials.
Congratulations! It must sew like a new machine again. Thanks for keeping it in service all these years. It would be hard to find a good replacement that you liked as much. It's kind of you to take the time to leave such a nice comment so thank you very much.
Andy, I have adjusted the belt per your excellent instruction at my 416 and I can continue to make face masks for my family. Thank you so much from Canada. Stay safe
Nicely done! You did it yourself. I'm happy you found the video. Thank you for your kind comment. Yes, staying safe and you too.
Thank you, your video has given me the confidence to change the belt on my 328.
@@mariavan7110 That's great you can do it just take your time and you'll have that belt in before you know it thanks for the nice comment and good luck
Thanks again for your videos, Andy! This was the last one I needed to watch - the final piece of the puzzle, if you will - that allowed me to finally resolve my problem and get my machine running smoothly. The hand wheel just could not be turned after a certain point as the tension on the belt just got too high. I had already completely loosened the tension peg off of the belt, so it was as slack as I could make it. I ultimately diagnosed that the teeth on the belt at that point in the rotation had ever so slightly gone out of sync with the teeth of the driveshaft gear and were riding up / out slightly, making the belt tension too tight to turn. The belt was inside the machine (Graduate model 712) and beyond my current skill set to remove and replace, so instead - inspired by this belt video extravaganza - I tried to flip the belt so the back (smooth) part of the belt would be on the gear, avoiding the misaligning teeth issue. As I did so, however, a fabric lining inside the belt started to peel off leaving only the bare rubber teeth behind. For a lark, I removed the rest of the fabric lining and put the belt back, teeth still inward, onto the gear and gave it a shot: Voila…the hand wheel turned freely all the way around, the teeth remained aligned and in place throughout its rotation, and my problem was solved. I realize that the life of the belt may now be somewhat shortened without the fabric lining, but the machine is sailing along and sewing great, at least for now. I guess removing that thin layer was just enough to resolve the belt tension trouble. Thanks again, Andy.
That is some intuitive troubleshooting. Nicely done! I don't know about the cloth piece, but if the teeth on the belt are not slotted completely into their slots that for sure would cause a lot of problems, including hesitation and stoppage. You made the belt slack though, so maybe you are on to something with the cloth piece. I'm not familiar with the model you mentioned, but happy if the video gave you something to work with. I'm glad you got it back in service. Thanks for the comment. Happy New Year.
@@andytubesewing1953 cheers, you too!
Thanks again for your expert advice! We just changed the belt. I couldn't have done it without you ❤
😃👍
First half of this tutorial sorted out my belt knowledge! I replaced my belt on my 348 and she is working like a dream again. Thank you so much.
nicely done I'm glad you found the video and it's nice of you to leave a comment Happy sewing
Hi Alison, where did buy the belt?
Maria A sorry for late reply! I already had a belt in my hoard of sewing paraphernalia 🤣
Thanks so much! Just changed the belt on my Singer 338. Your instructions and explanations were perfect.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the recognition and for repairing your own machine.
I have about 50 more videos for your machine if you ever have other issues or want to do a complete restoration. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html
Includes the foot controler too. Happy sewing
Hi, what size and provider did you use for your 338 machine? I just followed this tutorial to replace mine but it seems that the belt is too small. Even with maximum slack adjustments the motor has a hard time.
Thank you for all these very usefull videos!
Oh my goodness thank you so much, sir. You helped me breath new life into my dear old mom's Singer 447, she's happy as can be. If ever you need a scan of the original instruction manual showing all greasing spots etc, let me know and I'll gladly do it for you. My mom kept the manual as good as new!
Nicely done, and thanks for keeping that great machine in service. Nice of you to comment. Take Care.
Hi Mr. Andy thanks for the lesson, i have changed the belt of a 416 for my Mother in law and She is very thankfull too. Complements from Portugal
I'm glad you found the video, Joel. It never hurts to help your M-I-L 😊 Thanks for taking the time to comment and take care in Portugal.
Awesome information Andy! This video has much more information than the title suggest. I looked everywhere for the clutch installation at 10:00 and how to size your belt at 38:27 Should've watched this right away
I'm glad it helped you with what you needed. I can add info into the description area which TH-cam tells me they use when searching.
Thanks for letting me know. Take care.
Thank You SOOOOOOO Much. Following your directions, I just tightened the drive belt on a Vintage Singer 348.
I'm glad the video helped! Thanks for working on your won machine. Nicely done!
Thank you for this video. I have had problems too about getting the right lenght of the belt. I was actually ashamed of it, because it may seem unprofessional. But now even you got the same problems, so now I feel better :)
You should feel better. Working with vintage machines is a never ending learning experience I think. If you only knew how many belts, bobbin cases, tension parts, etc. I ordered only to find they would not fit the model I was working on. Thank you for watching my channel and taking the time to comment.
Very helpful video. Thanks, Andy!
Speaking of not so great new products for vintage machines, I recently bought a new lead cord for my 338. Looks like the one you have there. Mine also has trouble sliding on to the 3 pins. In fact, mine barely fits on at all and loses connection at the slightest bump. Also, the foot pedal cord and outlet cord are on opposite sides than they are on the original cord. The original plug that goes into the machine fits like a glove. Thinking of splicing the original onto the new cords. Shouldn’t have to do that after buying a new one that’s supposed to fit.
Welcome, Mildred. I've had that problem with new cords for years. I'll do almost anything to save the original vintage cords.
When I must buy new I usually have to use a sharp knife to "shave" down the plug for proper fit to the machine. If the holes of the plug don't match the pins in the machines there is nothing you can do. Sometimes the holes are too small a diameter and I've had to "enlarge" the holes by forcing something into the holes that is a tiny, tiny bit bigger. That gets tricky b/c if you enlarge the hole too much the plug is loose on the pins.
When saving a vintage cord I have replaced the wall plug end and that is easy. When the pedal was shot I removed the cord end from it and wired it into the new foot pedal which sometimes needs some modification. With cords that were caught in vacuum cleaner rollers and had bits of insulation chewed off leaving some bare wire showing, if the wires themself are OK I use liquid electrical tape and paint it over the bare wires.
Very helpful information. Thanks again, Andy!
Hi Andy,
Thank you so much for this information. I just ordered several 196386 belts from luilovebug. I'll be so glad to get belts that fit for the 457.
I hope they work out as well as mine. Since this video, I bought 2 more and they both fit. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this great video. I learned a lot about my Singer 413. I still have a problem. No matter how tightly or loosly I set the motor tension the pulley doesn't want to spin. I can turn it with the hand wheel but the motor might spin the pully but then stops. Any video for this?
This may be a foot pedal problem. It may have never been cleaned and adjusted. It may pass through enough power to turn the handwheel only, like in bobbin winding mode, but not enough power to turn the pulleys, belts, and shafts, etc.
Here is a playlist for the foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
Actually, the foot pedal doesn't turn the hand wheel but the pulley will turn if I turn the hand wheel by hand. I do see the motor moving with the foot pedal. If I give the hand wheel a good turn while using the foot pedal, the hand wheel goes a bit & then stops.
@@jeannestpierre9658 With the machine in BOBBIN WINDING MODE as shown in the manual where you disengage the handwheel from the armshaft for winding the bobbin the motor should easily turn the handwheel at high speed. If you can see the motor "moving" I guess you mean you can see the motor pully turning? If that is true the motor belt should be turning the handwheel. If it is not then there is truly something wrong. Either the belt is loose or the wrong type of belt, there is oil on the belt/ motor pulley, handwheel pulley, or something like that.
Thanks for the great video, it really helped!
@@MarkRittorno I appreciate your comment Mark 😊
Love your videos. Where can I find screws for the end cover. I can't find matches for them at Home Depot.
Singer had proprietary screw sizes on many of their vintage machines so you had to have them repair the machine. If you can give me the model number of your sewing machine, I can look up the parts list for the part number of the screw and try searching that for sellers on eBay, Etsy and online sewing supply shops
@@andytubesewing1953 I can't find the part numbers. They are not in the original owners' manual.
@@jeannestpierre9658 Please read my comment again. I'm asking you for the MODEL NUMBER of your sewing machine.
If you give me that I will find the parts number for the screws. Once I have that I may be able to give you screw size information or direct you to where you can buy replacement screws, but I need the MODEL NUMBER of your machine.
From your latest comment, it seems you have a model 413. The end cover screws are two different lengths. They have proprietary screw threading, meaning not standard thread counts. You'll need to find vintage ones and this seems the best available right now: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html It includes the cover which you don't need, but at least you'll have the screws.
@@andytubesewing1953 Singer Stylist 413
I want to replace the belt on my singer 348 but can't figure out how to get the oil pan cover off. It looks just like the one in this video but can't get the screw to turn. Do I need to loosen it (turn left) or right to tighten it? Your video is very helpful and I am hoping to be able to replace the belt. Thank you in advance.
Oh duh...there was no nut so I was able to turn and remove the washer which allowed me to remove the bottom plate. Live and learn! The sewing machine repair shop wanted $235 to replace the belt ($37 for the belt plus labor and a "tune up") so hoping I can replace the belt and do a little maintenance myself. Thank you!
You can do it, Velma! $235, yikes! Thanks for working to get machine back in service. You know where to find me if you have questions and good luck.
The washer is another type of nut. It has threads and one side has a slot for a regular screwdriver. I knew you would find that out, but explaining for the others who read your comment.
My mom's 348 belt is broken but I am not sure where to get the actual replacement belt.
@@an2n3t I ordered the same belt Andy used in the video for my Singer 348. It was too small and no amount of stretching, weights, etc. helped. I ended up buying a universal stretch belt 913-15 inches) on Amazon, 2 for $8.00. Worked great! My machine is operable again thanks to Andy's explanations and the new belt. Good luck! (P.S. I also order an orange cog belt from Amazon which I have not received yet but don't plan to try to use it now.)
Very interesting video, my machine the hand wheel i am having difficulty getting it off to fit a new belt
WOuld you care to share what the make and model number of the machine is, and what you've tried so far?
Some very helpful information. But those belts that were too big, with the teeth, could they actually be the drive belts for under the machine?
A good question, Sharon, but they are actually cogged motor belts and not the timing belts you are thinking of. There are some Singer models, and many other brands of machines have models, that use a cogged motor belt. Here is a Singer model 353 that uses a cogged motor belt b/c the handwheel had the matching notches th-cam.com/video/6ko4EW_qky4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Question I got one of these machines and it's stuck on reverse would you have any info on that
So I guess your machine has a push-button reverse like in the video? The mechanism is a combination of plastic & metal parts. There are springs inside that should push the button back upon letting it go and that is supposed to release the reverse parts so you sew normally. The spring/spring could have broken. The parts could just be stuck from grit and dust. I've had luck with releasing the reverse by taking the top, bottom, and motor cover plate off and blasting hot air from a hair dryer all around the parts area. Sometimes punching on the button you can feel and see a little movement to get an idea of what parts should move and I concentrate on those. I have also applied a little sewing machine oil to the parts. Other than taking more and more parts off the machine to isolate the problem the heat/oil has been successful for me over 1/2 the time. Be patient. If you can read the model number on the machine you can buy/download a service manual from an online seller like this one: manualsoncd.com/ they are usually less than $10 or so. If you ask them they often will have the parts manuals also, Most service manuals have a section for removing the "Feed Regulator" which is what we are talking about here. On these types of machines, the model number is usually on the front above or below the regulator. You can also take a look at these instructions from the Singer website about where to find model numbers on their machine
www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model That's all I have for you, Natasha. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I think tightening the belt is going to work but when I tested the motor, the needle and feed dogs would move. What adjustment should I concentrate on?
What model singer machine, please. Have you removed the stop motion screw/knob so the machine is in bobbin winder mode?
Hi Andy, Please could I ask some advice? The plastic pulley has come loose and keeps coming off on a Singer 338 motor. What would you use to fasten it back on? Thank you!
While earlier models from Singer had pulleys with a very small set screw in the valley of the pulley, later models used a "push-on" type of pulley with no screw. So, if the push-on pulley is loose the normal repair would be to replace the pulley. Here in the US I buy them from this seller for $10 www.ebay.com/itm/381505731207?epid=204729156&hash=item58d3837a87:g:sJsAAOSwSdZWg1UY
I have bought from this seller for years and he is trusted by me. Good products at fair pricing.
If that is not an option for you I suppose you could use an epoxy type glue and fill the hole in the pulley and push it back on the motor shaft. Perhaps something like JBWeld www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-twin-tube It has a strong tensile strength and can take 500+ Degrees F heat. The motor belt and pulley get very warm at times. I buy it at Amazon www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE The problem with gluing it on is if you ever need to replace it your stuck (haha) so for me, for $4.00 more, I'd install a new pulley.
@@andytubesewing1953 Many thanks for your speedy response Andy. I am in the UK so I will have a look for the pulley you mention over here. With the pulley that is coming off there is a metal sleeve inside it with ridges on that I assume was glued to the inside of the pulley and then the metal sleeve pushed onto the pulley. That metal sleeve just slips out of the plastic. Your help is always much appreciated.
@@kerry5586 That is the compression sleeve I think and don't know if you can fix it maybe? I'm sure there are sellers in the UK for the pulley as it is common on most of the 200, 300, & 400 series of Singer machines, Part 604367 , 605011-001
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the part number Andy. The compression sleeve has a split in it - is that part of the design so it can be opened out or made smaller or is that a fault do you know?
@@kerry5586 I never looked at it that closely, TBH. As a paid restorer my choice was always a new part (when available) versus trying to repair a defective part. If the cost is prohibitive to you you could try gluing the sleeve back into the plastic pulley and see if it grips the shaft enough to work.
Hi Andy, do you have any knowledge on how to remove the handwheel on a singer 760 or any 700 series machine. Or even to replace the belt? Thank you
Sorry, Andrew but I don't work on T & S machines, but Terry does and here is his T & S 700 page with some free documents plus repair and service manuals for sale
site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html Terry gives my viewers 20% off anything they buy before 8-1-2020. There may be other places to buy T & S manuals also. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you, booked marked. I actually found it myself. There is a screw the goes through the side of the wheel by the belt cogs, on the inner side of the machine.
Ah, good to know for future questions. Thanks for sharing that.
I need help figuring out how to get the bobbin tire changed on singer 477
And my bobbin won’t move
I've never worked on the 477 but looking at the parts diagram it has a BW system I am familiar with and have videos for on the model 337. This video shows the access to the BW tire after removing the top cover, handwheel, motor belt cover, and front panel.
th-cam.com/video/4mmZdFPqSIk/w-d-xo.html (BW @14:00) This video shows how to install the parts of the BW th-cam.com/video/r6m2QvUJDmo/w-d-xo.html
Those videos are part of a series you can find here if you need help removing handwheel, etc
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html
Your bobbin won't move? You mean under the needle? The bobbin just unspools the thread as the HOOK grabs it. I'm thinking your hook is not rotating around the bobbin case(holder) and I'm thinking that is b/c the plastic top gear on the vertical shaft has broken. Your 477 is in a group of about a dozen models that are internationally known for a failed top gear. They are 50 years old and dried out brittle plastic. The gear costs about $10 and I made a step-by-step video (long) about replacing that gear on a model 457, which is similar to your machine, but not exactly the same. Here is that video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
anything else?
I have a singer model 247. It was my grandmother's. The top vertical gear is broken. I've watched your videos, but it's no front cover. How do I get to top gear to screw in New gear in place?
This is the gear change video you mention: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html In the comments section of that video, Medrano Prado Enrique and Courtney Stewart made comments about changing the gear on a 247. In my replies, to them, I also have links to where you can buy the Service Manual for model 247. Other viewers have written that they removed some of the other parts on the machine to get access to the gear, such as the feed regulator and feed rock/lift shafts, etc. and they used the manual to see how to remove those parts. I don't have time to search 10K emails, but the theme was the same. They either drilled a hole to get a screwdriver in there or removed parts to the handwheel side to get a screwdriver in there. I've never even seen a 247 in person so I can't tell you off-hand the steps to take to replace the gear. In some models of Singer, the manual says to remove the entire horizontal shaft and everything connected to it then remove the gear/shaft out the top of the machine. That is a difficult and time-consuming method so viewers have found work-around methods to avoid that.
How to know measurement of the motorbelt, i have a singer 1263 and i want to change the motorbelt.my motorbelt was broke and dont know how to measure it
Here is a trusted seller who has the belt for your machine. www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-Sewing-Motor-Belt-193066-196388-250-252-257-259-262-288-293B-611-900/380452495174?hash=item5894bc5f46:g:ibAAAOxyIMhRGS-t
He states the measurements and also explains how you can measure your machine to verify the belt size. I have bought many belts from him.
Are these good machines with the belts?
It depends on your definition of "good". IMO, any vintage SInger sewing machine is "good" and very capable of sewing domestic items. They can sew from delicate lace to heavy denim, canvas, and garment leathers. I have bought 40-year-old machines that had the original belt and, after adjusting the tension, still sewed normally. I figure if you sewed a couple hours every day a new belt would last 10 years at least. Some of the machines have a plastic gear at the top of the vertical shaft that is known to fail, but it fails after many years and costs $10 and a couple hours to replace it. It should last 20 to 30 years under normal use that the machine is made for. You can buy vintage Singer machines that have all metal shafts, levers, pitman shafts or gears that can easily last for 100 years. Some of the machines have a direct drive motor meaning no motor belt or timing belt. Models 15-90, 15-91, 101, 201, 301, 401, 403, 404, 500, 503 are that way. Those machines are more heavy-duty than the machine in this video, but they were still sold as a "Domestic" or household machine. My grandparents used a 15-90 on the farm for everything from clothing, bedding, curtains, overalls, overcoats, raincoats, canvas bags and awnings, and even repairing some leather harnesses. So I'd say yes. a metal vintage Singer with a belt is a "good" machine, and at the price you can buy one for, it will out sew and outlast many of the modern plastic machines that cannot be repaired at all. Just choose one that fits your sewing needs. I have over 450 videos on my Playlist page covering quite a few models. You could poke around thru some of the videos to get an idea of the different models and what they are like. Here is the link to my Playlist, and thanks for watching my channel;
th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy. You did a great job answering the question which should have been phrased better. I have heard a lot about all metal machines and was not sure about this machine with belts. Good to know these machines have value too.
@@andytubesewing1953 PS - your video helped me fixed this machine. A part on the hand-wheel was on backwards. Runs great now.
Thank you and glad if it was a good answer. I can often find a machine like this for $25 to $50 and after restoration sell it for $125 to $175 depending on attachments, case or cabinet. I sell most of this type to younger people who are learning to sew, bought a similarly priced new machine that broke after a couple of months, or they want to hem denim jeans and the modern machine they bought won't do that. Some people buy them for when to go to their summer home and just want a dependable machine on hand. I have donated a few to women's shelters and they get well used there and I seldom get a call to fix one.
Thanks again for watching my channel.
Now that is music to my ears! Thanks for saving a vintage Singer machine, Dave. Take Care.
Can i use a belt that has teeth on both sides instead of one that has teeth on one side?
I've never even seen a belt like that, so I can honestly tell you yes or no.
Hi Andy. Is there a way to check the load on the motor by the Stylist my model is 478. thanks
Not sure what you are looking for, Maruk. Did you mean an electrical measurement? Or how the motor runs by itself? Let me know please, and we will figure it out. Thanks for watching.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have a stylist 478 and the motor have a hard time to turn the small pulley as if some one is holding the big pulley on the machine even when the locking wheel is unlocked, so is it the load the machine putting on the motor or the motor is not getting enough current to run, it does hum and turn a litle if helped by turning the larg pulley by hand. I see you turn the wheel very easily mine is little stiff ofcourse it har for you to tell without accutally feeling it . Thanks again.
If I was working this machine I would loosen or remove the motor belt. You can loosen or remove the screw as shown @ 4:45 in the video. When you put the machine in bobbin winding mode the motor should only be turning the handwheel, nothing else and the motor should run very fast b/c it is only turning that handwheel. To be honest, I'm thinking you have a foot pedal problem and motor is not getting full power from the foot pedal and that makes it hum and strain when starting. It is very common on a machine this age that the foot pedal needs cleaning and adjusting. I made a full series about how to restore the foot pedal to normal operation. You may want to look at a couple of those videos to see if you think your problem is not the motor, but a defective foot pedal. Here is the series for the clamshell foot pedal
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank youvery much Andy, I just received an electronic foot pedal from Shop-Sew-Classic, once I put it together I will give it a try. and then I will watch your series to repair the clamshell foot pedal. thank you aain for being patient with me and answering me with the solution. thanks a million,
That's a good plan and no worries about me answering questions. Your questions are very normal and if I can help then I am happy. Let me know how it turns out, please. Good luck.
Thanks Andy Tube!
I'm glad you found the video, Katie. Thanks for commenting. Be safe.
How to buy your machines?
I normally either give to charity or sell locally on Craiglist. phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-singer-model-353-genie-zigzag/7452495943.html phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-singer-heavy-duty-all-metal/7453074024.html
phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/d/tempe-beautiful-singer-model-301-sewing/7452214051.html
Halo, tolong reviuw singer 650 j-a8, ukuran berapa v belt itu, terima kasih dari Indonesia Jakarta
Saya tidak mengenali nomor model itu di sini di AS. Silakan lihat halaman ini di Singer tentang di mana menemukan nomor model; www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model
Saya tidak dapat menemukan gambar nomor model itu secara online. Silakan posting fotonya di channel Anda atau beri kami beberapa link ke gambar yang Anda temukan online.
I can't unscrew a screw on a hand wheel. What to do?
It is normal to find "stuck" screws on vintage machines. You did not mention your brand or model number so I'll give you a general opinion. If you believe there is rust on the screw/machine then treat the screw with a rust remover. I use "The Must for Rust", and like that I can buy just an 8 oz bottle:
www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor
Another very popular product is "Evaporust": evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust/
If you do not find any rust, then you can use oil. SMO (sewing machine oil) is fine. You can try a penetrating oil if you have any. I still use WD-40 at times even if some say it does not penetrate it works for me. Some people have luck putting a screwdriver into the screw and giving the handle a sharp rap with a small hammer to "break free" the screw. th-cam.com/video/LSU7Ua7xyuY/w-d-xo.html
I have used a hair dryer to warm the screw, let it cool, warm, cool, etc. to expand and contract the screw and handle trying to loosen the screw. What I found the most important is patience. I have had to soak screw 2 or 3 days before I could get them free. For a handwheel screw, I would take off the arm and nose covers and stand the machine on its nose if possible. Then the oil can penetrate straight down on the screw. Then 3 or 4 times a day add a drop of oil to the screw and try in the evening to remove it. If it was still stuck then oil overnight and try in the morning and so forth. I have never had a screw that would not come out. I did snap-off a motor cover screw by being impatient and forcing it. That proved to me that patience is the best practice. Good Luck. Thanks for watching Andy Tube
My sewing machine is same as on this video Singer 413. Unfortunately we couldn't unscrew wheel screw. I will need to change this part as we cut it😕
I've changed motor belt. Now it's another problem. One of the shafts is cracked. Have you got any video how to replace them? Thank you
Vertical top shaft (I think it the right name of it)
really? wow I have never seen a crack shaft maybe you mean the gear is cracked like the plastic gear not the steel shaft?
@@halynaasik3721 I think maybe the top plastic gear on the vertical shaft has cracked or broken. is that what you found is that what you mean??
I have a singer sewing machine model 413 and the top gear broke .
Your 413 is one of about a dozen Singer models known to have a weak top gear on the vertical shaft. I made a video specifically about how to change that gear. It takes some time to do, but the gear is usually less than $10. The rest of the machine is good and strong so it is worth the effort. I have almost 14K views of the gear video now so you can see you are not alone with this problem. Here is the link to the video and good luck, Holly: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you😅
Thanks for keeping your machine in service. Happy sewing!
Sometimes the belt just starts slipping due to the rubber hardening with age.
Frister Rossman 416 looks 100% identical to one in video
OK, thank you. You don't say, so I assume you removed the stop motion screw and clamp and you just have the handwheel stuck on the counterbalance it sits on. There is nothing else holding it on, like another screw or anything. It is common that the handwheel gets stuck on the counterbalance because of dried oil or grease. You can apply a penetrating oil at the front and rears edges of the wheel where it sits on that counterbalance. You can apply heat with a hairdryer. The idea is to soften the dried gunk and get the wheel to twist on the counterbalance. It can take time and a few applications of oil. If you're in a hurry and it is still stuck you can give the wheel a sharp rap with a rubber mallet to give it a "shock" and break it free. Don't damage the wheel of course. In very severe cases I have used a chisel between the counterbalance collar and the back of the handwheel to pry it loose.
السلام عليكم ممكن ترجمة باالعربي
ايضا معك شكرا لكم لمشاهدة قناتي.
'aydaan maeak shukraan lakum limushahadat qanati.
Lingua italiano
Un saluto, Andrea.
Mentre ci avviamo verso un altro nuovo anno, è un ottimo momento per imparare qualcosa di nuovo! Ecco due brevi video che mostrano come cambiare la lingua "CC" (sottotitoli chiusi) sui video di TH-cam. Funziona su quasi tutti i video di TH-cam. Usando questi metodi puoi cambiare la lingua CC in italiano molto facilmente.
cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli
Computer: come cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli su TH-cam?
th-cam.com/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/w-d-xo.html
Telefono Android: come cambiare la lingua dei sottotitoli sull'app TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/w-d-xo.html
Grazie per aver guardato il mio canale.