I failed to mention the reason i actualy wanted to perform this modification, the brief if you like is.. To combine what is essentialy an expendable frame which i dont really care about with a gear system which despite some limitations is undeniably still the most robust and maintenance free multi speed cycle transmision after 100 years of other manufacturers trying to best it. Secondary reason - lots of folk say its not possible.
Hey brother.. !! what happened to you? ...here waiting for another of your videos with a cup of coffee in one hand in the winter cold and using anti-oxidant spray. .. in the other, without gloves... only you have that style.
Any update on anything mate. Keen to see anything you have been up to. Thought I should let you know too that I have moved to Rumble. Same name, I had to can youtube for now to hide from people at work. Cat got out of the bag and I am trying my best to put it back in. Really missing your videos mate and my thoughts are with you, best of luck bloke.
Great to see you, working on bikes is a new one for sure. I myself am a fan and mechanic of pedal bikes for the neighborhood kiddos, my son and his friends, and for myself although my bikes are all equipped with engines and electric motor kits. I've been building and riding motorized bicycles since I was 11 years old, so now 32mph (50km/hr) is the ideal speed for travel and fun but still feels like a slow and comfortable speed as some of my bikes in the younger years could go 80-100km/hr with 80-90cc chainsaw engines. These days its all electric (1500 watt 2hp hub motor kits) as they're practically perfect in acceleration and top speed for my needs, and at around $500 for the kit and battery-well worth it, would recommend. I should probably be pedaling as my weight is around an eighth of a ton, but I just cant do it unless taking off from a traffic light- cant really pedal at the speeds I ride unless off roading or uphill mountain biking. Anyway, good to see you man.
I have an entire playlist of bicycle related shenanigans my friend, there's only a few vids on it but I like bikes too. I've come close to punting for an ebike kit a few times, they look like a lot of fun but I really need to lose a few pounds so next time I fall out of a tree it doesn't mess my arm up so badly.
If I got to choose my post apocalypse team you'd be on it - seems you can make and fix anything! I'm a tinkerer myself but not at your level :-) Hope you'll be getting back to the bunker again soon because that's the project I'm most interested in.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 The obvious way I thought you were going to use a to put a milling cutter in the size of the minor width and run a slot with it. You might start with a hole drilled to the width of the flats at one end or other or in the middle too.
@@BensWorkshop but then you still would have told me off for using a file! Just messing mate, how are you? Sorry I'm a bit out of touch with your goings on, not really spending much time on yt at the moment
that wouldn't help to much when you first ride off but when riding along it would help. Better to have a battery charged by the dynamo, no flickering at all then, plus your light will stay on wwhen you have stopped
nice project and great result. Did you thread the spokes back in and get the wheel true again. I tried that once and it just got worse and worse. I had to take it to the shop to sort it out. All the best James. dave
Hey brother.. !! what happened to you? ...here waiting for another of your videos with a cup of coffee in one hand in the winter cold and using anti-oxidant spray. .. in the other, without gloves... only you have that style.
The greenest energy device on the planet. Uses no fuel and yet it can produce tons of torque. Here's an explanation. You know how a water wheel works. Water falls onto on side of the wheel and causes it to spin. But I turned the elements around and inverted it. Water weighs 62 pounds per cubic foot. Well a cubic foot of air has the lifting strength of 62 pounds. So use air bags on a wheel to lift one side of the wheel in reverse of how the water wheel works. So build the air bags like bellows bags shaped like a wedge of cheese with the long point facing to the right laying flat on the wheel. The air bags are connected with pipes to the bags across the wheel like 12-6 and 9-3 and so on for a total of 6 pipes. The theory is from 7-11 those 5 bags if they are 3 cubic feet of air each , then the five will have 930 pounds of lifting strength. The bag at 12 is in the process of transferring to the 6 o'clock position. It transfers by rotating through a squeeze chute that slowly gets closer to the wheel from 11:30 position to the one o'clock position where it gets locked shut. Then will rotate to the 5 o'clock position where it will be unlocked and ready to receive air. So the bellows bags have flat board on top with 2 rollers that roll along the squeeze chute to reduce friction. The lock is a spring loaded latch that engages just before the one o'clock position. That's so that the air cannot return to the empty bellows bag . until it gets to the 5:30 o'clock or so. Ok so we're relying on the 930 pounds of lifting strength to push the one at 12 o'clock through the squeeze chute. And it transfers through the pipe to the 6 o'clock position. So all the bags on the left keep the wheel rotating in a clockwise direction. The wheel is mounted in a tank of water with the water level at 11:30 to the 12:30 position. Work out your timing and lock and unlock positions and adjust the squeeze chute for timing and gradual squeeze. The theory is that you create more lifting strength than is required to push the one bag through the squeeze chute with transfers the air to begin lifting again at 7. Build it.
You're a very clever man James with a wicked sense of humour. Luckily I don't have to bill you for a new laptop after spitting out my tea over the engaging maximum late for work legs comment. Be safe and be lucky man.
It's great as far as maintenance is concerned, would be nice to have a few more gears to deal with a headwind though, been really stormy lately and I can't cope with 20mph wind at 5am
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006good to hear you are still alive😂….. looking forward to a new vid. Keep smiling, don’t let the bas**reds grind you down.👋😀
I always think, "I could do that" and get the bits apart, then think, sh1t! I have everything but talent and patience." Cheers for posting another great vid.
I remember back in the late 70's when they brought out the "lightweight aluminium toggle chains" like chocolate fireguards. What a waste of time they were. The three speed hub bikes were still better than the incoming, five and ten speed racers. 👌😎🤘m-E-m
Sounds extra stretchy! 70's bike components were pretty wild, been looking at some of the crazy old Shimano golden arrow and arabesque derailleurs, as you say apparently they weren't great, they look cool though.
As an ex aircraft component engineer, I think we can see the beauty in “good engineering” derailleurs were extremely good to look at, to use and a lot simpler than the three speed hubs. Glad to see your arms is “good.” 🤘😎👌m-E-m
Can’t believe you haven’t brought a Chinese electric hub yet I helped a friend build one. It’s run off Aldi ferrex batteries has a controller to change motor dynamics a hand control and a pedal mode so you pedal the motor kicks on. Cheap kit’s really from China just have less spokes. He has it to go work on cheap motoring.
What mill is that? Is it a benchtop horizontal centec? Good vid. Ah and on a different subject what size oilite bushing did you use on your upgrade of your sewing machine? im due to be in the UK soon and want to get some. cheers
Yes, little centec, the early one without a vertical feed hence the bottle jack! I can't remember for sure but I think I removed the grotty 6mm shaft and replaced them with polished silver steel 8mm so my bushes were 8mm which meant I also had to build up the arms with weld to get a bit of meat either side of the holes again, made a big difference though. Hope you have a nice visit mate.
Thanks for the info again. Ive just rewatched your vids on your upgrade and have ordered the bits I need. Just trying to source a bit of brass for the back bearing. 👍
I missed this when you first posted it. A good project too. I've often thought about putting a gear hub on a bike but never done it. I think those have 2nd gear as straight through. I know what you mean about other jobs getting in the way of real work.. Happy riding.
Hey brother, figured you be back at it. Hope your bicep rehab went well. Had both of mine torn off and was back to normal about 4-6 months after surgery. Well hope to see how things are.
Yes Jim, very pleased to see your face! I bought myself a 1950 myford ml7 not in a small way encouraged by your endeavours. Where did that mill of yours come from?
Those old Sturmey hub gears are such an elegant solution and provide plenty of gearing for most casual applications - we all got spoilt by the "look how many gears I've got" boom in the 70s/80s - clattery derailleur gears ahoy!!! Even most "non entry level" mountain bikes are now running a single up front and then a massive cassette at the rear because the triples can cause so much trouble (I still run triples because I'm not cool and down with the kids). Love the special washers you made, perfect solution to prevent dropout spread - I've had a few bikes with really mangled dropouts - I had to make washers for one but they were nowhere near as elegant as yours.
The 1x components are beautiful though, Shimano carve the entire cassette out of a billet of steel on some models, I'm quite tempted to stick one on a folder for no particular reason.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I didn't know that about the, presumably top of the range, Shimano cassettes being made out of a single billet - that does sound rather sexy. The first time I saw a 1x system I was like "wow, I want one", and I still do want one, but for the riding I do I don't need one - it's that constant battle of trying not to be seduced by shiny things....... I'd love to see a 1x on a folder, that would be a giggle.
@@GrumpyTim the simplicity is the draw for me, mechanically its a terrible solution though. I think the machined from solid are the closer range cassettes not the really wide range stuff. It's the budget 8speed cassettes that interest me for experimental purposes, 11-50t and potentially manageable on a friction shifter, how small can the rim get before the jockey wheel is dragging along in the mud?
It's good to see you back. Was beginning to wonder. The bike I learned to ride on was a second hand Moulton. Still have it. It had the 3 speed Sturmey. It was lovely... except it never changed gear reliably. It used a mini chain linkage into the hub, but whatever I did it would never slide easily. It was a pig to get into 1st gear, and always lagged when "releasing" it into higher gears. I overhauled it in later teens, but it was never really great. I suspect the tension spring maybe needed to be firmer, though that wouldn't have helped pulling it down into 1st. Maybe the leverage was wrong. I'll be interested in how you find it. I guess it'll be easier anyway on the flatlands you live on. Glad you're back. I hope everything has been going smoothly after the op.
Moultons are pretty cool, had something to do with the guy who designed the elastomeric suspension on the mini. Setting up the sturmey is easy if all the parts are correct (there's 4 different gear change links and if you've got the wrong one you'll have to find a different method) In second gear you want to see about 3mm of the rod showing out of the axle, ride it and if you're already in 1st back it off a touch, if it slips into neutral shorten it more.
I made some really big washers like them. I brought some on ebay that had no dimensions thinking they were what I needed for my mechanical hacksaw. Mine were about 40mm in diameter... slightly to big for youre needs but still a fun shaper project
The anti rotation washer slack doesnt really matter so they reckon, because it only resists force in one direction. Regarding how id have done it without a lathe/mill : buy a few HMW518 style washers and add a bit of weld and file back. This style works best snugged into the inside of the drop out. If you use a chain tensioner (why would you if you dont have to) you can just snug this HMW518 style washer into the inside radius of the dropout and so it tends to work well even if it's too small. I have used one of these for loaded touring geared very low, it just means coasting down hills, but it was excellent and did miles of coastal paths with foot high grass and flora that'd have filled a derailleur quickly.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I also am led to believe that the serrated style are sintered. Could be wrong though. I love the over engineering of your approach. I feed mine some molybdenum suspension when I oil them. Might be pointless but I like to think not.
@@BrownianMotionPicture sintering makes the most sense today, I'd be really surprised if there hadn't been a variety of different methods over the years, I'm pretty sure some that I have handled have been partially stamped as the flat nut side has an edge but either way it's a complicated little washer to mass produce, I expect Sheldon Brown has a lock washer timeline with manufacturing process lurking somewhere.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 true enough, these things must predate sintering altogether. I reckon you of all people could do some cool things with these hubs beyond cycling. I think you'd bring in some new viewers as these hubs have something of a cult following.
I failed to mention the reason i actualy wanted to perform this modification, the brief if you like is..
To combine what is essentialy an expendable frame which i dont really care about with a gear system which despite some limitations is undeniably still the most robust and maintenance free multi speed cycle transmision after 100 years of other manufacturers trying to best it.
Secondary reason - lots of folk say its not possible.
The second reason is a good one.
I've seen people just bend the frame in to suit the hub 😵💫
Love IGHs, such a clean look. Great job as always.
Hey brother.. !! what happened to you? ...here waiting for another of your videos with a cup of coffee in one hand in the winter cold and using anti-oxidant spray. .. in the other, without gloves... only you have that style.
We miss you, buddy. Love the content you make. It's one of the best channels on TH-cam. Cheers from America.
Any update on anything mate. Keen to see anything you have been up to. Thought I should let you know too that I have moved to Rumble. Same name, I had to can youtube for now to hide from people at work. Cat got out of the bag and I am trying my best to put it back in. Really missing your videos mate and my thoughts are with you, best of luck bloke.
Really missing your videos mate. The internet isn't the same without you.
Not seen the sturmeys in bits before, cheers👍
Love a bit of bicycle content! Hope you are keeping well butty 👍👍
Cheers Ben
Great to see you, working on bikes is a new one for sure. I myself am a fan and mechanic of pedal bikes for the neighborhood kiddos, my son and his friends, and for myself although my bikes are all equipped with engines and electric motor kits. I've been building and riding motorized bicycles since I was 11 years old, so now 32mph (50km/hr) is the ideal speed for travel and fun but still feels like a slow and comfortable speed as some of my bikes in the younger years could go 80-100km/hr with 80-90cc chainsaw engines. These days its all electric (1500 watt 2hp hub motor kits) as they're practically perfect in acceleration and top speed for my needs, and at around $500 for the kit and battery-well worth it, would recommend. I should probably be pedaling as my weight is around an eighth of a ton, but I just cant do it unless taking off from a traffic light- cant really pedal at the speeds I ride unless off roading or uphill mountain biking. Anyway, good to see you man.
I have an entire playlist of bicycle related shenanigans my friend, there's only a few vids on it but I like bikes too.
I've come close to punting for an ebike kit a few times, they look like a lot of fun but I really need to lose a few pounds so next time I fall out of a tree it doesn't mess my arm up so badly.
That was a lovely bit jig making there 😀 nice
You know the deal, nice jig several hours, making the part 5 min
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006then save the jig forever just in case? 🤣
just wondering how you are lately ? Looking forward to your tunnel videos resuming 😃👍 ...cheers...
Glad to see you back at it..even showing off your special manicured hands..lovely time of the year for a bike ride..Cheers..
They're pretty clean these days aye
Beautiful pair of wheels. In fact the whole bike looks pretty nice. Fine work. Penny Farthing next?
Hi bud long time no see hope you and your family are well. Missing your channel hope to see you back soon. 👍👍🍺🍺🍺
Just subscribed and hoping to see a new video soon. Hope you are having a good Easter.
Very interesting and informative if anyone can do it. it's you well done bud stay safe and well all .👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺
If I got to choose my post apocalypse team you'd be on it - seems you can make and fix anything! I'm a tinkerer myself but not at your level :-) Hope you'll be getting back to the bunker again soon because that's the project I'm most interested in.
It’s probably been 20 years since I was last on a bicycle haha
Interesting conversion. Impressive if unconventional use if the mill. Surprised you didn't do the slotted thru hole like that.
The only way I could figure out how to get the radius was using the rotary table, can you think of any other methods?
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 The obvious way I thought you were going to use a to put a milling cutter in the size of the minor width and run a slot with it. You might start with a hole drilled to the width of the flats at one end or other or in the middle too.
@@BensWorkshop then the radius won't be a snug fit, it obviously doesn't need to be but it would have irritated me!
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 Yes, but you could finish it with needle files to get the last bit.
@@BensWorkshop but then you still would have told me off for using a file!
Just messing mate, how are you? Sorry I'm a bit out of touch with your goings on, not really spending much time on yt at the moment
Could you put a capacitor in the light to smooth the flickering
that wouldn't help to much when you first ride off but when riding along it would help. Better to have a battery charged by the dynamo, no flickering at all then, plus your light will stay on wwhen you have stopped
@@brotherdarkrage good point youd need to start off at some street lights and never stop 🤣
nice project and great result. Did you thread the spokes back in and get the wheel true again. I tried that once and it just got worse and worse. I had to take it to the shop to sort it out. All the best James. dave
Hey brother.. !! what happened to you? ...here waiting for another of your videos with a cup of coffee in one hand in the winter cold and using anti-oxidant spray. .. in the other, without gloves... only you have that style.
What was that? petter diesel on a mountain bike you say? good lord.
I've sent you a message about a different casting mould making technique
The greenest energy device on the planet. Uses no fuel and yet it can produce tons of torque.
Here's an explanation.
You know how a water wheel works. Water falls onto on side of the wheel and causes it to spin.
But I turned the elements around and inverted it.
Water weighs 62 pounds per cubic foot. Well a cubic foot of air has the lifting strength of 62 pounds. So use air bags on a wheel to lift one side of the wheel in reverse of how the water wheel works. So build the air bags like bellows bags shaped like a wedge of cheese with the long point
facing to the right laying flat on the wheel. The air bags are connected with pipes to the bags across the wheel like 12-6 and 9-3 and so on for a total of 6 pipes. The theory is from 7-11 those 5 bags if they are 3 cubic feet of air each , then the five will have 930 pounds of lifting strength. The bag at 12 is in the process of transferring to the 6 o'clock position. It transfers by rotating through a squeeze chute that slowly gets closer to the wheel from 11:30 position to the one o'clock position where it gets locked shut. Then will rotate to the 5 o'clock position where it will be unlocked and ready to receive air.
So the bellows bags have flat board on top with 2 rollers that roll along the squeeze chute to reduce friction. The lock is a spring loaded latch that engages just before the one o'clock position. That's so that the air cannot return to the empty bellows bag . until it gets to the 5:30 o'clock or so.
Ok so we're relying on the 930 pounds of lifting strength to push the one at 12 o'clock through the squeeze chute. And it transfers through the pipe to the 6 o'clock position. So all the bags on the left keep the wheel rotating in a clockwise direction. The wheel is mounted in a tank of water with the water level at 11:30 to the 12:30 position. Work out your timing and lock and unlock positions and adjust the squeeze chute for timing and gradual squeeze. The theory is that you create more lifting strength than is required to push the one bag through the squeeze chute with transfers the air to begin lifting again at 7.
Build it.
Where you gone mate, hope you're ok. Cheers, Mat
How are you doing James , how’s the arm ?
You're a very clever man James with a wicked sense of humour. Luckily I don't have to bill you for a new laptop after spitting out my tea over the engaging maximum late for work legs comment.
Be safe and be lucky man.
Cheers mate, too kind.
A good little project. Let us know how it's going with late for work max power in the mud and slush.
It's great as far as maintenance is concerned, would be nice to have a few more gears to deal with a headwind though, been really stormy lately and I can't cope with 20mph wind at 5am
Hope you are ok brother.
Oooh the ol' Sturmey Archer...had em on my Chopper and on a Grifter as well.
Hello Sir James. Not sure whats going on but I hope you are ok and thinking about some more workshop videos. Miss ya buddy.
All good mate, just finishing off a big project and the council found out about the hole so that's in limbo while my planning gets dealt with.
Ahh geez....give someone a little power and it pops em off like a freaking roman candle. Sorry about that buddy.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006good to hear you are still alive😂….. looking forward to a new vid. Keep smiling, don’t let the bas**reds grind you down.👋😀
Sorry to hear that, glad you're ok.
Hay Turbo, any chance of a quick Christmas video to let us know you're OK?
All the best.
I always think, "I could do that" and get the bits apart, then think, sh1t! I have everything but talent and patience." Cheers for posting another great vid.
Cat!
R.I.P Turbo Conquering Mega Eagle.
What?
your back WOW HOOOO !
Alright Robin
thanks mate not bad getting over a bad ankle injury filming on hold for the moment 👍@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006
I remember back in the late 70's when they brought out the "lightweight aluminium toggle chains" like chocolate fireguards. What a waste of time they were.
The three speed hub bikes were still better than the incoming, five and ten speed racers.
👌😎🤘m-E-m
Sounds extra stretchy!
70's bike components were pretty wild, been looking at some of the crazy old Shimano golden arrow and arabesque derailleurs, as you say apparently they weren't great, they look cool though.
As an ex aircraft component engineer, I think we can see the beauty in “good engineering” derailleurs were extremely good to look at, to use and a lot simpler than the three speed hubs. Glad to see your arms is “good.”
🤘😎👌m-E-m
Can’t believe you haven’t brought a Chinese electric hub yet I helped a friend build one.
It’s run off Aldi ferrex batteries has a controller to change motor dynamics a hand control and a pedal mode so you pedal the motor kicks on.
Cheap kit’s really from China just have less spokes. He has it to go work on cheap motoring.
What mill is that? Is it a benchtop horizontal centec? Good vid. Ah and on a different subject what size oilite bushing did you use on your upgrade of your sewing machine? im due to be in the UK soon and want to get some. cheers
Yes, little centec, the early one without a vertical feed hence the bottle jack!
I can't remember for sure but I think I removed the grotty 6mm shaft and replaced them with polished silver steel 8mm so my bushes were 8mm which meant I also had to build up the arms with weld to get a bit of meat either side of the holes again, made a big difference though.
Hope you have a nice visit mate.
Thanks for the info again. Ive just rewatched your vids on your upgrade and have ordered the bits I need. Just trying to source a bit of brass for the back bearing. 👍
I missed this when you first posted it. A good project too. I've often thought about putting a gear hub on a bike but never done it.
I think those have 2nd gear as straight through. I know what you mean about other jobs getting in the way of real work.. Happy riding.
Good to see a post bro
Still here mate!
All ok? Haven’t seen you about for a while
Hey brother, figured you be back at it. Hope your bicep rehab went well. Had both of mine torn off and was back to normal about 4-6 months after surgery. Well hope to see how things are.
Yes Jim, very pleased to see your face! I bought myself a 1950 myford ml7 not in a small way encouraged by your endeavours. Where did that mill of yours come from?
Hope you are having a great Xmas holidays and hope you and your family are doing well
Those old Sturmey hub gears are such an elegant solution and provide plenty of gearing for most casual applications - we all got spoilt by the "look how many gears I've got" boom in the 70s/80s - clattery derailleur gears ahoy!!! Even most "non entry level" mountain bikes are now running a single up front and then a massive cassette at the rear because the triples can cause so much trouble (I still run triples because I'm not cool and down with the kids). Love the special washers you made, perfect solution to prevent dropout spread - I've had a few bikes with really mangled dropouts - I had to make washers for one but they were nowhere near as elegant as yours.
The 1x components are beautiful though, Shimano carve the entire cassette out of a billet of steel on some models, I'm quite tempted to stick one on a folder for no particular reason.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I didn't know that about the, presumably top of the range, Shimano cassettes being made out of a single billet - that does sound rather sexy. The first time I saw a 1x system I was like "wow, I want one", and I still do want one, but for the riding I do I don't need one - it's that constant battle of trying not to be seduced by shiny things.......
I'd love to see a 1x on a folder, that would be a giggle.
@@GrumpyTim the simplicity is the draw for me, mechanically its a terrible solution though.
I think the machined from solid are the closer range cassettes not the really wide range stuff.
It's the budget 8speed cassettes that interest me for experimental purposes, 11-50t and potentially manageable on a friction shifter, how small can the rim get before the jockey wheel is dragging along in the mud?
Get in there!
Dooley!
I love a bike video. It's time for another proof of life video.
fucking love these old hubs, run them on everything
Happy New Year!
Hope you’re doing ok butty
What was the audio book you had on (roughly 17:00)? Cheers mate
Flashpoint, a solar irradiance apocalypse, whole series on audible for 1 credit, not great but not terrible.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 thanks mate just got done with Salem's Lot on there so was looking for something else!
@@pradolover Micheal mammy's books are good if you're into sci-fi, only thing I've listened to recently I'd actually recommend.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006Nice one. Nevil Shute's books are good too especially if you are into planes.
Happy New Year Turbo!🎉
Where are you mate 😢hope your ok
It's good to see you back. Was beginning to wonder.
The bike I learned to ride on was a second hand Moulton. Still have it. It had the 3 speed Sturmey. It was lovely... except it never changed gear reliably. It used a mini chain linkage into the hub, but whatever I did it would never slide easily. It was a pig to get into 1st gear, and always lagged when "releasing" it into higher gears.
I overhauled it in later teens, but it was never really great. I suspect the tension spring maybe needed to be firmer, though that wouldn't have helped pulling it down into 1st. Maybe the leverage was wrong.
I'll be interested in how you find it. I guess it'll be easier anyway on the flatlands you live on.
Glad you're back. I hope everything has been going smoothly after the op.
Moultons are pretty cool, had something to do with the guy who designed the elastomeric suspension on the mini.
Setting up the sturmey is easy if all the parts are correct (there's 4 different gear change links and if you've got the wrong one you'll have to find a different method)
In second gear you want to see about 3mm of the rod showing out of the axle, ride it and if you're already in 1st back it off a touch, if it slips into neutral shorten it more.
We miss you
I made some really big washers like them. I brought some on ebay that had no dimensions thinking they were what I needed for my mechanical hacksaw. Mine were about 40mm in diameter... slightly to big for youre needs but still a fun shaper project
aaaaa the bike, some memories from last months trip to you
Blessed was that day of sunshine and Maltese beer!
Until the rain came obviously
Dead?
more lightly he is just sick of making TH-cam videos, I don't think he makes much from these videos - shame really
The anti rotation washer slack doesnt really matter so they reckon, because it only resists force in one direction. Regarding how id have done it without a lathe/mill : buy a few HMW518 style washers and add a bit of weld and file back. This style works best snugged into the inside of the drop out. If you use a chain tensioner (why would you if you dont have to) you can just snug this HMW518 style washer into the inside radius of the dropout and so it tends to work well even if it's too small. I have used one of these for loaded touring geared very low, it just means coasting down hills, but it was excellent and did miles of coastal paths with foot high grass and flora that'd have filled a derailleur quickly.
Nice solution, had to Google what you meant but see what you are saying, could build that style washer up without it messing up the serrations.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 I also am led to believe that the serrated style are sintered. Could be wrong though. I love the over engineering of your approach. I feed mine some molybdenum suspension when I oil them. Might be pointless but I like to think not.
@@BrownianMotionPicture sintering makes the most sense today, I'd be really surprised if there hadn't been a variety of different methods over the years, I'm pretty sure some that I have handled have been partially stamped as the flat nut side has an edge but either way it's a complicated little washer to mass produce, I expect Sheldon Brown has a lock washer timeline with manufacturing process lurking somewhere.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 true enough, these things must predate sintering altogether. I reckon you of all people could do some cool things with these hubs beyond cycling. I think you'd bring in some new viewers as these hubs have something of a cult following.
@@BrownianMotionPicture sturmey pedal power hammer, you might be onto something.