I have watched all your video over the last few days and I am ever so grateful you have taken the time to share your knowledge with us viewers. I am amassing machinery and tooling, working on small projects. It is information like that found on your channel that helps with my success. Thanks so very much my friend and I can't wait for the next one. Richard.
This video is pure gold. I had no real understanding of how to make threading with a lathe but now I have a basic concept. I'll be checking out the other parts. Thanks for sharing this
Clear, concise, straight to the point in a forward looking and knowledgeable language skill without interjection, happily learning here, I believe ,beyond the attention span of the average TH-cam student. Thank You Much!! jd
Awesome. Thank you Tom, for taking the time to explain this. Much appreciated, especially for a novice like myself. Your videos really take a lot of the mystery out of machining. Thank you.
Thanks for the information and techniques in this play list. It has been very helpful. I've followed your example and my threads turned out like I wanted, which is the magic I wanted.
You shed new light on cutting threads. After seeing the helix angle and how important it is to be included in the sharpening and shaping or the tool bit it makes perfect sense and also would make a better thread and without the sharp V at the base of the minor diameter of the thread it would be stronger. Excellent video, thanks
Great 3 part video series! Thanks for taking the time and effort to put these videos out. Very in depth. Some of the math was over my head, but I learned alot. Ted Johnston
Thanks Richard, that's good to hear. I'm on vacation at the moment, but hope to be making part 4 by the end of the week. I'm looking forward to cutting some threads with that tool. Tom
Huge thumbs up. I've been buying carbide indexable tooling for my mini-lathe, I've got a few HSS tools, but not many. I'm going to start using HSS. Your videos are perfect for the guy in his garage who enjoys making things, thank you!
G'day Tom thank you for you videos, I have been trying to sharpen my own tool bits and I am getting better at it. I really like how you explain what you are doing and why and you are less confusing than watching other DVDs as you said doing all the same thing! I have subscribed and I will keep watching you Tom as I am new to machining but at 59yo it's something I have always wanted to do and now I have the opportunity. Thank you once again regards John Kinnane Tasmania Australia
+John Kinnane Hi John, Just keep practicing and it will come. It's never too late to learn new skills. Be sure to visit my web site and download the tool geometry diagrams. Getting the angles right is important. Tom
You are an excellent instructor. I wanted to tell you that and then looked up your website and saw your "bio" and realized why you present the way you do. Great work. I am hooked. Thanks for the effort..
I will have to watch your complete series on threading. It's one operation I have never attempted, and now I have a 6" independent 4-jaw Cushman chuck that had been damaged and crudely repaired at one point, but really needs new adjustment screws. They are approximately 3/4"-8 LH square threads, and to do that on my HF 9x20 lathe I will need to add a leadscrew reverse tumbler and also a hand crank for the spindle (or a really low back gear, and/or perhaps variable speed drive). I think I need to try some simple SAE standard threads first. Also, the chuck screws should be made from 4140 or similar alloy steel, and probably hardened. More things to learn!
much like your spring making video i commented on earlier, if find this interesting and informative. i'm gonna have to go through all your videos eventually. i feel more enlightened with each one that i watch.
Oh im sure there's something wrong lol. I will try not sure if my camera will show up that well. And not sure how to send pics on youtube. If worse comes to worse I might make reverse videos asking whats wrong instead of instructing and pick out the best advice. LOL. I will say I know a ton more than I did. Im still have to try contacting an old timer to come out he said he would just was trying to figure it out on my own. Thanks for the help!
The alloy does have an effect on machinability, but a properly ground tool can overcome those effects. It sounds like you might have a clearance issue on one side of the tool, can you send me a pic? Tom
I must've had bad vision yesterday. No wonder it wasn't working that bit wasn't so great afterall. Probably just getting a better eye for it, not really anything to do with the helix it was just overall a piece of junk. Biggest lesson I learned today was not set the fish gauge down somewhere when you only have 1 and a bad memory to boot lol. I seem to do better not trying to do so much at one time and trying it several times.
Well made 3 cutting bits today, first time ever, first couple tries at threading not so good. 3rd time I thought I was on the right track but when finished i've noticed the left side of the thread slopes a lot more than the right. So back to the drawing board I guess. Curiously im using basic CRR 5/8" to practice on......does it make pretty crappy looking threads some almost look cracked? I've heard it doesn't turn that great but don't really know.
Thread forming dies for bicycle spokes use three rolling dies attached to a single mandrel that also rotates while the spoke is held rigid. The angle of the thread in relation to the dies seems simple but could use some explanation. The real question is why the three dies cut the thread without cross cutting each other. How do I make one of these dies for a 12g spoke thread? How do I make one for a 1/4" bolt thread? Are they the same or different?
Yes, bicycle spokes have rolled threads. They are much stronger than a cut thread and easier to produce in production. Dedicated machines are used to produce rolled threads so making them in the home shop would be quite a challenge. Do a you tube search for rolled threads to get an idea of how it's done. There are rolling heads available for use on a lathe that consist of three precision rollers of the correct pitch and held on the correct angle, but they are extremely expensive.
Aloha Tom, I have a special project, we have to cut garden hose thread (GHT) on 3/4 white schedule 40 PVC pipe. The diameter is fine, but my mini-lathe only has a chart for down to 12 threads per inch. QUESTION: how do I set the lathe up to cut 11.5 TPI? Non-tapered. I read the manual and see nothing about doing under 12 or dealing with threads that are .5. I watched some “how to” TH-cam, really liked you one explaining the Thread indicator ...and you say to double the fractional count to 11.5 + 11.5 to get 23 so you know where to start the half nuts on the lead screw…..using 23 as the guide. But how do I set up the gearing. I am hoping you can help me with this. Thank goodness we only need to do male threads and NOT cut female internals! I have searched the net and cannot find any threading DIEs. Odd. Aloha, Glenn
Hi Tom, I leaned a lot from this, thank you. Thread cutting tools make sense to me as they are form tools. However I'm really confused about general turning and facing tools. Could I suggest a video on the shapes of the different types of tools and tool selection.
Nigel, If you visit the reference section of my website, you'll find information on grinding both turning and facing tools. I've also done an instructional video on facing and many of my project tutorials that include turned parts discuss turning, facing and tool selection. I would suggest starting on the website because it's better organized than my TH-cam channel and it should be easier to find what you are looking for. tomstechniques.com/ Tom
I talk a little about tools for cutting a square thread in part 2 of this series, but this series is pretty much centered on 60º V threads. The tool will have a flat point, with clearance on both the left and right, more on the leading edge to compensate for the helix angle of the thread. I will eventually make a video on cutting a square thread, but it's lower on my list of priorities because it's not a commonly used thread. Tom
+Jonathan Mota Hey Jonathan, High speed steel with high levels of cobalt, such as M42 have incredible red hardness and shock resistance. It works very well for heavy roughing cuts as well as interrupted cuts. I just picked up a handful of Cleveland Mo-Max bits at a used tool shop and am excited to put them to use. Coatings can provide increases in tool life and performance under controlled conditions. By controlled conditions, I mean in manufacturing where the material type, speeds and feeds can be tightly controlled. I don't feel that the added cost of coatings is justified for general use in the home shop. It is interesting that you elicited my comment about red hardness today because that will be the topic of my first video of the season, hopefully this afternoon. Tom
OK I see this is going to talk about the tools. I just want to know how the lathe makes the tool exactly follow the exact same thread cut on each pass. All of the other videos mumble something about "You have to wait for the number to come around" but don't explain further. What does "waiting for the number" actually make the lathe DO?
I watched this video again. I have my mind clouded with other crap i've watched on youtube. I didn't have a helix angle on the tip it was straight so im sure that's a big part of it. I'm just gona stick with your vids. I'm learning fast that anyone can post stuff on youtube and already seeing they don't know what they're doing. I'll let you know how it goes thanks.
I'm a machinist William, but an not a professional videographer. You will never understand how difficult it is to make a video like this until you try it. Hopefully you were able to glean something useful out of it. Tom
You asked. High speed steel is inexpensive, $10 for a tool bit that you can resharpen thousands of times vs. $10 for an insert that only gives you three edges that you can't sharpen at all. I still have and use some of the first tool bits I purchased when I started in the trade 45 years ago. High speed steel is flexible. I can grind a tool to fit any application I need in a few minutes, or order a carbide insert for the application if I can find one and wait for it to be delivered. High speed steel is forgiving. I can drop it on the floor, bump it into the work or stall the spindle by trying to take too heavy of a cut and not worry a bit about chipping the tool. I can also push a high speed steel end mill and it will bend but not break (try that with carbide). High speed steel produces a much better surface finish than carbide inserts. High speed steel works better than carbide on light machinery, such as that found in most home machine shops. I don't need special and expensive tool holders to hold a high speed steel tool bit. By the way, I do have carbide end mills that I use for special applications like small slots (down to .005"), applications that require an extended reach end mill, and stainless and hardened parts. Tom
I have watched all your video over the last few days and I am ever so grateful you have taken the time to share your knowledge with us viewers. I am amassing machinery and tooling, working on small projects. It is information like that found on your channel that helps with my success. Thanks so very much my friend and I can't wait for the next one.
Richard.
Thanks for all your work in making this series. I think this is the best tutorial on threading that I've found yet.
This video is pure gold. I had no real understanding of how to make threading with a lathe but now I have a basic concept. I'll be checking out the other parts. Thanks for sharing this
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Clear, concise, straight to the point in a forward looking and knowledgeable language skill without interjection, happily learning here, I believe ,beyond the attention span of the average TH-cam student. Thank You Much!! jd
Thanks JD, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
You are simply most informative when I need it. As a beginner Lathe and Mill operator your the best instructor out there. Thanks X 1000
Thank you. It's always good to hear that the information is appreciated.
This reminds me of my grandfather. He was also a machinist and a fan of the common-sense approach. Nice video - thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I remind you of your grandfather? Oh no! ;)
Thanks for watching, glad you like the videos.
Tom
Awesome series! This will be so helpful! Thanks for all the information.
Thanks Tom, you have an excellent teaching style and I am learning tons watching your videos.
Awesome. Thank you Tom, for taking the time to explain this. Much appreciated, especially for a novice like myself. Your videos really take a lot of the mystery out of machining. Thank you.
Thanks Emilio
Thanks for the information and techniques in this play list. It has been very helpful. I've followed your example and my threads turned out like I wanted, which is the magic I wanted.
Thread cutting is sort of magical. Glad it worked out for you.
Tom
Thanks Shawn, that's good to hear. Stay tuned, there is a lot more to come.
Tom
You shed new light on cutting threads. After seeing the helix angle and how important it is to be included in the sharpening and shaping or the tool bit it makes perfect sense and also would make a better thread and without the sharp V at the base of the minor diameter of the thread it would be stronger. Excellent video, thanks
Thanks Paul
Thank you, I appreciate the comment.
Tom
Great 3 part video series! Thanks for taking the time and effort to put these videos out. Very in depth. Some of the math was over my head, but I learned alot.
Ted Johnston
chevnova396
Thanks for watching Ted.
Thanks Richard, that's good to hear. I'm on vacation at the moment, but hope to be making part 4 by the end of the week. I'm looking forward to cutting some threads with that tool.
Tom
That's good to hear!
I'll keep making them if you'll keep watching them.
Tom
I would like to see a video on Square threads as I’m going to give it a go myself. Your videos are really Informative
Huge thumbs up. I've been buying carbide indexable tooling for my mini-lathe, I've got a few HSS tools, but not many. I'm going to start using HSS. Your videos are perfect for the guy in his garage who enjoys making things, thank you!
Jim McPherson
Thanks Jim.
Tom us newbie's appreciate you and your videos more than you know. Thanks for your time and videos.....
Thank you for watching
G'day Tom thank you for you videos, I have been trying to sharpen my own tool bits and I am getting better at it. I really like how you explain what you are doing and why and you are less confusing than watching other DVDs as you said doing all the same thing! I have subscribed and I will keep watching you Tom as I am new to machining but at 59yo it's something I have always wanted to do and now I have the opportunity. Thank you once again regards John Kinnane Tasmania Australia
+John Kinnane
Hi John,
Just keep practicing and it will come. It's never too late to learn new skills.
Be sure to visit my web site and download the tool geometry diagrams. Getting the angles right is important.
Tom
Very informative. Thank you again for the well instructive video.
You are an excellent instructor. I wanted to tell you that and then looked up your website and saw your "bio" and realized why you present the way you do. Great work. I am hooked. Thanks for the effort..
Thank you Sean.
Excellent, glad I could help.
Tom
This video answered a question I had right at the start. Thanks.
Awesome video! Nice presentation!
Thank you
Hi Richard, thanks for the videos i have learned a lot blessings
I will have to watch your complete series on threading. It's one operation I have never attempted, and now I have a 6" independent 4-jaw Cushman chuck that had been damaged and crudely repaired at one point, but really needs new adjustment screws. They are approximately 3/4"-8 LH square threads, and to do that on my HF 9x20 lathe I will need to add a leadscrew reverse tumbler and also a hand crank for the spindle (or a really low back gear, and/or perhaps variable speed drive). I think I need to try some simple SAE standard threads first. Also, the chuck screws should be made from 4140 or similar alloy steel, and probably hardened. More things to learn!
Yes, those threads would need to be hardened and a square thread is definitely not appropriate for a first thread cutting attempt.
Tom
much like your spring making video i commented on earlier, if find this interesting and informative. i'm gonna have to go through all your videos eventually. i feel more enlightened with each one that i watch.
it shows you really know what you're talking about!... i like that!
+Santiago Orta
Thanks for watching!
Oh im sure there's something wrong lol. I will try not sure if my camera will show up that well. And not sure how to send pics on youtube. If worse comes to worse I might make reverse videos asking whats wrong instead of instructing and pick out the best advice. LOL. I will say I know a ton more than I did. Im still have to try contacting an old timer to come out he said he would just was trying to figure it out on my own. Thanks for the help!
The alloy does have an effect on machinability, but a properly ground tool can overcome those effects. It sounds like you might have a clearance issue on one side of the tool, can you send me a pic?
Tom
I must've had bad vision yesterday. No wonder it wasn't working that bit wasn't so great afterall. Probably just getting a better eye for it, not really anything to do with the helix it was just overall a piece of junk. Biggest lesson I learned today was not set the fish gauge down somewhere when you only have 1 and a bad memory to boot lol. I seem to do better not trying to do so much at one time and trying it several times.
Well made 3 cutting bits today, first time ever, first couple tries at threading not so good. 3rd time I thought I was on the right track but when finished i've noticed the left side of the thread slopes a lot more than the right. So back to the drawing board I guess. Curiously im using basic CRR 5/8" to practice on......does it make pretty crappy looking threads some almost look cracked? I've heard it doesn't turn that great but don't really know.
Thread forming dies for bicycle spokes use three rolling dies attached to a single mandrel that also rotates while the spoke is held rigid. The angle of the thread in relation to the dies seems simple but could use some explanation. The real question is why the three dies cut the thread without cross cutting each other. How do I make one of these dies for a 12g spoke thread? How do I make one for a 1/4" bolt thread? Are they the same or different?
Yes, bicycle spokes have rolled threads. They are much stronger than a cut thread and easier to produce in production. Dedicated machines are used to produce rolled threads so making them in the home shop would be quite a challenge. Do a you tube search for rolled threads to get an idea of how it's done. There are rolling heads available for use on a lathe that consist of three precision rollers of the correct pitch and held on the correct angle, but they are extremely expensive.
Aloha Tom,
I have a special project, we have to cut garden hose thread (GHT) on 3/4 white schedule 40 PVC pipe.
The diameter is fine, but my mini-lathe only has a chart for down to 12 threads per inch.
QUESTION: how do I set the lathe up to cut 11.5 TPI? Non-tapered.
I read the manual and see nothing about doing under 12 or dealing with threads that are .5.
I watched some “how to” TH-cam, really liked you one explaining the Thread indicator ...and you say to double the fractional count to 11.5 + 11.5 to get 23 so you know where to start the half nuts on the lead screw…..using 23 as the guide.
But how do I set up the gearing.
I am hoping you can help me with this.
Thank goodness we only need to do male threads and NOT cut female internals!
I have searched the net and cannot find any threading DIEs. Odd.
Aloha,
Glenn
great show how
It sounds like learning is taking place. :)
i wish these videos didn't stop! i'm learning so much about machining. i haven't found a channel as informative to a dope like myself trying to learn
That is good for us to learn
totally agree . using steel to threading save more :D
You ever turn your thread tool upside down and run chuck CW and lead screw in reverse, threading away from the chuck towards the tail stock?
I do that on occasion. Don't try it on a lathe with a threaded spindle though.
Good education!
That's my goal.
Tom would a precision Mathews 932m mill be a good one for my first mill ????????? $1900 basic or $2800 with power feed and a DRO. Thank you kind sir
Hi Tom, I leaned a lot from this, thank you. Thread cutting tools make sense to me as they are form tools. However I'm really confused about general turning and facing tools. Could I suggest a video on the shapes of the different types of tools and tool selection.
Nigel,
If you visit the reference section of my website, you'll find information on grinding both turning and facing tools. I've also done an instructional video on facing and many of my project tutorials that include turned parts discuss turning, facing and tool selection.
I would suggest starting on the website because it's better organized than my TH-cam channel and it should be easier to find what you are looking for.
tomstechniques.com/
Tom
what cutting tool used for cutting square thread., it doesn't mentioned on this video.
I talk a little about tools for cutting a square thread in part 2 of this series, but this series is pretty much centered on 60º V threads. The tool will have a flat point, with clearance on both the left and right, more on the leading edge to compensate for the helix angle of the thread. I will eventually make a video on cutting a square thread, but it's lower on my list of priorities because it's not a commonly used thread.
Tom
+1 for typical youtube viewers attention span comment, made mi day.
tj miller does machine work?
What do you think about cobalt tooling or tooling with different coatings. This is a general tooling question?
+Jonathan Mota
Hey Jonathan,
High speed steel with high levels of cobalt, such as M42 have incredible red hardness and shock resistance. It works very well for heavy roughing cuts as well as interrupted cuts. I just picked up a handful of Cleveland Mo-Max bits at a used tool shop and am excited to put them to use.
Coatings can provide increases in tool life and performance under controlled conditions. By controlled conditions, I mean in manufacturing where the material type, speeds and feeds can be tightly controlled. I don't feel that the added cost of coatings is justified for general use in the home shop.
It is interesting that you elicited my comment about red hardness today because that will be the topic of my first video of the season, hopefully this afternoon.
Tom
OK I see this is going to talk about the tools. I just want to know how the lathe makes the tool exactly follow the exact same thread cut on each pass. All of the other videos mumble something about "You have to wait for the number to come around" but don't explain further. What does "waiting for the number" actually make the lathe DO?
Keep looking through my videos. There is one on the threading dial that should answer your question.
Tom
anyone who came to this video shouldnt have a 4 minute attention span. if they do they are one fast machinist.
big up tom ! lot of thanks
Thanks for watching!
Yes, HSS is much more practical for light machining than carbide.
Tom
I watched this video again. I have my mind clouded with other crap i've watched on youtube. I didn't have a helix angle on the tip it was straight so im sure that's a big part of it. I'm just gona stick with your vids. I'm learning fast that anyone can post stuff on youtube and already seeing they don't know what they're doing. I'll let you know how it goes thanks.
The man.
:)
Grizzly vs precision Mathews for first mill ?????
Join the forum, MetalworkingFun. There are several members over there who have Precision Mathews mills.
Tom
It would have been nice for you to hold the demonstration tool still and not cover it up with your hand.
I'm a machinist William, but an not a professional videographer. You will never understand how difficult it is to make a video like this until you try it. Hopefully you were able to glean something useful out of it.
Tom
Why does this guy hate carbide so much? HSS is slow as hell.
You asked.
High speed steel is inexpensive, $10 for a tool bit that you can resharpen thousands of times vs. $10 for an insert that only gives you three edges that you can't sharpen at all. I still have and use some of the first tool bits I purchased when I started in the trade 45 years ago.
High speed steel is flexible. I can grind a tool to fit any application I need in a few minutes, or order a carbide insert for the application if I can find one and wait for it to be delivered.
High speed steel is forgiving. I can drop it on the floor, bump it into the work or stall the spindle by trying to take too heavy of a cut and not worry a bit about chipping the tool. I can also push a high speed steel end mill and it will bend but not break (try that with carbide).
High speed steel produces a much better surface finish than carbide inserts.
High speed steel works better than carbide on light machinery, such as that found in most home machine shops.
I don't need special and expensive tool holders to hold a high speed steel tool bit.
By the way, I do have carbide end mills that I use for special applications like small slots (down to .005"), applications that require an extended reach end mill, and stainless and hardened parts.
Tom