Neat trick with the freezer and torch. Years ago my Dad and I did a similar trick to get the bushing on a Toyota truck axle. Only we used a wood stove and a snow bank. Worked
If you don't mind can you tell me what the total cost of the rebuild that your doing, I'm a veteran and funds are you know tight so If you don't mind telling me that way I can start to work on it thanks reuben
I have used that "freezer" method as well and it works "ok" but a much better set up is to build a box then use C02 and it will shrink things much more than the freezer and it does it pretty fast vs waiting all night in the freezer. I first started using that method when even after 24hrs of having a yz250 crank in the freezer it did not shrink enough to allow the crank to slip in. You should never have to tap to get the crank in. Every time you hit it you run the risk of just throwing that crank out slightly and although the average joe will not notice once it's running your bearings will prematurely fail over time and it just won't be a smooth. Both case halves should go on easy ideally with no tapping. Try the C02 method you'll never look back.
Is there anyway you could publish the unedited video? the parts you FF, for example right through the crucial mating of the engine cases.. I know it is a lot of work, I appreciate, but there are no videos on line that cover the details for newbs, TONS of videos people dis-assembling motors, but NONE re assemble., Thanks! Even if the long version contains mistakes, swearing.. it would still be huge help.
I have a 2008 rhino 700 . I was riding down the road and it lost power. It has something hanging out the side case right about the oil filter. The engine still turns over. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be. Thanks in advance.
When re-mating engine case, It would not join, It took me couple attempts, different days to figure it out, it seems like the transmission gears have 1/2" movement, and so the shaft would not line up, I found there is an opening, you can put a thin pin tool through the case as you are mating the case, there is a pin size hole in the end of the small shaft, so you can slightly adjust this transmission gear, as you are mating case, or at least you can tell if the shaft is aligned inside case as you are mating. Also my case was high on the transmission side, so I had to lift the case on the crank shaft side, as I was mating case on a 660 engine, then with these two adjustments, the case dropped into place!! Use patients do not damage as cases are HARD to come by now.
Neat trick with the freezer and torch. Years ago my Dad and I did a similar trick to get the bushing on a Toyota truck axle. Only we used a wood stove and a snow bank. Worked
Looking good man !
Cool assembly video.
Do you still have the old crank and is it any good?
Also no upgraded middle drive gear support?
Amazing, you know your business.
If you don't mind can you tell me what the total cost of the rebuild that your doing, I'm a veteran and funds are you know tight so If you don't mind telling me that way I can start to work on it thanks reuben
Are all these video series the same for a 660 mootor?
I have used that "freezer" method as well and it works "ok" but a much better set up is to build a box then use C02 and it will shrink things much more than the freezer and it does it pretty fast vs waiting all night in the freezer. I first started using that method when even after 24hrs of having a yz250 crank in the freezer it did not shrink enough to allow the crank to slip in. You should never have to tap to get the crank in. Every time you hit it you run the risk of just throwing that crank out slightly and although the average joe will not notice once it's running your bearings will prematurely fail over time and it just won't be a smooth. Both case halves should go on easy ideally with no tapping. Try the C02 method you'll never look back.
Can you please tell me how you removed/installed the gear that's on the boss buffer?
Did the upgraded engine require any ECM or fuel system upgrades? Thanks.
ECM yes. I show that later on in the build. Fueling, nope. All oem components
Is there anyway you could publish the unedited video? the parts you FF, for example right through the crucial mating of the engine cases.. I know it is a lot of work, I appreciate, but there are no videos on line that cover the details for newbs, TONS of videos people
dis-assembling motors, but NONE re assemble., Thanks! Even if the long version contains mistakes, swearing.. it would still be huge help.
I have a 2008 rhino 700 . I was riding down the road and it lost power. It has something hanging out the side case right about the oil filter. The engine still turns over. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be. Thanks in advance.
hello, I have a 06 660, How did you remove crank assembly ? Yamaha Puller ? or hammer? Press out ?
I have a crank puller which is the best way without damaging anything. You can get one pretty cheap off amazon.
When re-mating engine case, It would not join, It took me couple attempts, different days to figure it out, it seems like the transmission gears have 1/2" movement, and so the shaft would not line up, I found there is an opening, you can put a thin pin tool through the case as you are mating the case, there is a pin size hole in the end of the small shaft, so you can slightly adjust this transmission gear, as you are mating case, or at least you can tell if the shaft is aligned inside case as you are mating.
Also my case was high on the transmission side, so I had to lift the case on the crank shaft side, as I was mating case on a 660 engine, then with these two adjustments, the case dropped into place!! Use patients do not damage as cases are HARD to come by now.