I remember watching one of Sam in the Uk video and someone says there is no one that do Repair like that in the USA and I just shake my head now look at you Amazing work Sir please keep up the good work 👍👍🙏🙏
Sam was one of the first people I subscribed to when I decided to start making videos. He is a great person! I fix almost any class AB and class D amplifiers.
what do you think of adding mini Heatsinks to those ICs? using thermal glue to hold them in place? thinking a good idea on known hot components and your favorite amps :)
@@ellensburgamplifier I’ve actually been looking at a few, what are the dimensions? I’ll send you some links bro, and with that I’m going to start doing it as well ;) ty!
I have one of those and the polarized electrolytic output filter caps are all failed. It also has a microscopic mylar cap where yours has a massive red cap. That's weird and I'm going to install a larger one in its place when swapping the others. The location of the mylar cap is also on the side near the terminals, unlike yours.
Excellent, I would not change the capacitance value of the output filter capacitors as this may directly affect the output signal. I am unsure if the capacitors you are dealing with are part of the output RC snubber or for bypassing. You can go higher in voltage to a point though.
@ellensburgamplifier I used a higher voltage for the mylar, same capacitance. The 6 larger are the same value as larger voltage wouldn't have fit. I have it all together and regreased and it works but seems to be drawing around 3a at idle. That seems excessive. None of the rail caps were swollen and the mosfets read ok.
@@2slofouru Did you replace the output transistors or power supply transistors by chance? Excessive current is from cross-conduction most likely. Do you have an Oscilloscope to verify the deadtime?
@ellensburgamplifier I didn't replace any transistors, didn't find any shorted ones. Doesn't mean there aren't any acting up. I will unfortunately need to take the million crappy screws out and plastic pieces out...just to remove the bottom and do some more checking. The amp is SO poorly built. What's crazy is the interior probably gets super hot because there's no fan to pull heat out or vents. It's a miracle that vertical board survives at all 😅
@@ellensburgamplifierI have a tiny handheld Chinese oscilloscope, but can't figure it out. I don't regularly mess with amps, so haven't gotten a decent scope.
Great video sir I also don't like those drive board in those amplifier they really heat up too much but like always you did a wonderful job explaining your work 👍👍🙏🙏
Would you have a similar amp to check idle current on? I can't find any switching mosfets getting warm or hot, but of course the driver board with fans and the two toroids they blow on get pretty hot. The two higher wattage grey resistors shunted across the high voltage dc rails also get pretty hot, but I've noticed that in several amps. It's drawing from 2.5a - 2.8a depending on the meter I use. With the heat from the driver board and output toroids, it doesn't surprise me. Mine also has a plastic shroud around the driver board and fans, to direct the air, where yours doesn't. Must be a revision to try and help the board last through the warranty period. 😂
Unfortunately, I do not have a similar design in right now. Everything stated sounds normal for the most part. I wonder if the rail capacitors have a lot of ripple going on? Is that current draw at idle with or without a speaker attached?
@ellensburgamplifier It's at idle and with no speaker attached. I wonder if attaching a load would stop it. Maybe the open circuit is allowing some weird high frequency oscillation?
@@2slofouru There are limited reasons as to why a class D power supply pulls excessive current. Do you have a scope? If so what is the frequency and dead time of the supply drive? Also, what is the P-P ripple at the rail capacitors? If you replaced the rail capacitors did you use low ESR capacitors?
@ellensburgamplifier I didn't replace rail caps. None are swollen, but doesn't mean they're all good. The total rail voltage is 134vdc. The rail caps are 80v each rail, like yours. Obviously it doesn't operate at 160v, just mentioning. I do have a scope, but it's a tiny digital handheld cheapo. I never learned how to use it.
@ellensburgamplifier I'm not sure the power supply is causing the draw. It may be the audio output side doing weird things. The two output toroids get pretty hot. There is no output dc or ac at the speaker terminals. It does play audio if I input a signal. I used a vom inline to check draw and have one of those digital inline ammeters I tried as well. I'm wondering now if the output filter mylar and six electrolytic caps failed because there's a frequency being sent that they can't handle. Maybe that's why the two output toroids are getting hot. I wish it was easier to just pop the caps back out to see if the draw drops to normal. I verified the tiny mylar cap's uf measurement and just used a higher voltage version. I used the same specs for the six electrolytics.
I have a portable dso and am trying to find settings to compare the high and low drive after the output driver card. Is there a good starting point? I've tried everything from changing maximum voltage, polarity, sampling?, etc and the only setting that actually showed the edge was an auto setting and was so zoomed in I couldn't see the top and bottom edges.
I wish I could help but I don't know the scope functions to direct you. Do you have a signal generator that you can learn that DSO functions with? This will help you learn the time-base functions and the voltage scaling function. Make sure that your probe and DSO have the same probe multiplier settings. 10x preferred depending on the scope.
@@ellensburgamplifier Can you help me repair the amplifier I only have a little knowledge in a more detailed way Maybe I can contact you in a faster way.
@@snowcota9611 I am always happy to help people fix their amplifiers but I do warn that without class D knowledge and a scope it may be difficult to do. first thing to do is to pull all of the output transistors and see if it starts from there. I am always available by email. All of the business information is located at www.ellensburgamplifier.com
I have the same planet audio amp I seen you fix and mine keeps kicking the protector lite on with nothing hooked up but the power/remote/and ground . It's something internal you seem to know what you're doing I need a way to contact you to send this to you to have it fixed
Depends on where you are located. Here in the states, I use Mouser, Arrow, Digikey and for international ordering, I use LCSC and 2 companies direct for my large orders.
I said "what the heck?' as soon as I flipped it over. I still have to look up those transistors to see the ratings. I would think the drain leg VIA's would fail long before the primary trace does.
I remember watching one of Sam in the Uk video and someone says there is no one that do Repair like that in the USA and I just shake my head now look at you Amazing work Sir please keep up the good work 👍👍🙏🙏
Sam was one of the first people I subscribed to when I decided to start making videos. He is a great person! I fix almost any class AB and class D amplifiers.
Todd great video again. Thanks
Thank you Joe!
Very interesting one,best one yet. I almost naught one before I bought the Rockville db16 ,thanks for video todd
Always happy to help. In most cases, if a rail capacitor fails it will be the negative side.
@@ellensburgamplifier glad to know no such thing as too much information
what do you think of adding mini Heatsinks to those ICs? using thermal glue to hold them in place? thinking a good idea on known hot components and your favorite amps :)
I have been looking for mini small heatsinks to glue onto the Taramps gate drive IC so if you find any ideas on what to use, I am all ears!
@@ellensburgamplifier I’ve actually been looking at a few, what are the dimensions? I’ll send you some links bro, and with that I’m going to start doing it as well ;) ty!
@@Tekjive email sent on this. Thank you!
I have one of those and the polarized electrolytic output filter caps are all failed. It also has a microscopic mylar cap where yours has a massive red cap. That's weird and I'm going to install a larger one in its place when swapping the others. The location of the mylar cap is also on the side near the terminals, unlike yours.
Excellent, I would not change the capacitance value of the output filter capacitors as this may directly affect the output signal. I am unsure if the capacitors you are dealing with are part of the output RC snubber or for bypassing. You can go higher in voltage to a point though.
@ellensburgamplifier I used a higher voltage for the mylar, same capacitance. The 6 larger are the same value as larger voltage wouldn't have fit. I have it all together and regreased and it works but seems to be drawing around 3a at idle. That seems excessive. None of the rail caps were swollen and the mosfets read ok.
@@2slofouru Did you replace the output transistors or power supply transistors by chance? Excessive current is from cross-conduction most likely. Do you have an Oscilloscope to verify the deadtime?
@ellensburgamplifier I didn't replace any transistors, didn't find any shorted ones. Doesn't mean there aren't any acting up. I will unfortunately need to take the million crappy screws out and plastic pieces out...just to remove the bottom and do some more checking. The amp is SO poorly built. What's crazy is the interior probably gets super hot because there's no fan to pull heat out or vents. It's a miracle that vertical board survives at all 😅
@@ellensburgamplifierI have a tiny handheld Chinese oscilloscope, but can't figure it out. I don't regularly mess with amps, so haven't gotten a decent scope.
Great video sir I also don't like those drive board in those amplifier they really heat up too much but like always you did a wonderful job explaining your work 👍👍🙏🙏
Thank you for your support!
Would you have a similar amp to check idle current on? I can't find any switching mosfets getting warm or hot, but of course the driver board with fans and the two toroids they blow on get pretty hot. The two higher wattage grey resistors shunted across the high voltage dc rails also get pretty hot, but I've noticed that in several amps. It's drawing from 2.5a - 2.8a depending on the meter I use. With the heat from the driver board and output toroids, it doesn't surprise me. Mine also has a plastic shroud around the driver board and fans, to direct the air, where yours doesn't. Must be a revision to try and help the board last through the warranty period. 😂
Unfortunately, I do not have a similar design in right now. Everything stated sounds normal for the most part. I wonder if the rail capacitors have a lot of ripple going on? Is that current draw at idle with or without a speaker attached?
@ellensburgamplifier It's at idle and with no speaker attached. I wonder if attaching a load would stop it. Maybe the open circuit is allowing some weird high frequency oscillation?
@@2slofouru There are limited reasons as to why a class D power supply pulls excessive current. Do you have a scope? If so what is the frequency and dead time of the supply drive? Also, what is the P-P ripple at the rail capacitors? If you replaced the rail capacitors did you use low ESR capacitors?
@ellensburgamplifier I didn't replace rail caps. None are swollen, but doesn't mean they're all good. The total rail voltage is 134vdc. The rail caps are 80v each rail, like yours. Obviously it doesn't operate at 160v, just mentioning. I do have a scope, but it's a tiny digital handheld cheapo. I never learned how to use it.
@ellensburgamplifier I'm not sure the power supply is causing the draw. It may be the audio output side doing weird things. The two output toroids get pretty hot. There is no output dc or ac at the speaker terminals. It does play audio if I input a signal. I used a vom inline to check draw and have one of those digital inline ammeters I tried as well.
I'm wondering now if the output filter mylar and six electrolytic caps failed because there's a frequency being sent that they can't handle. Maybe that's why the two output toroids are getting hot. I wish it was easier to just pop the caps back out to see if the draw drops to normal. I verified the tiny mylar cap's uf measurement and just used a higher voltage version. I used the same specs for the six electrolytics.
I have a portable dso and am trying to find settings to compare the high and low drive after the output driver card. Is there a good starting point? I've tried everything from changing maximum voltage, polarity, sampling?, etc and the only setting that actually showed the edge was an auto setting and was so zoomed in I couldn't see the top and bottom edges.
I wish I could help but I don't know the scope functions to direct you. Do you have a signal generator that you can learn that DSO functions with? This will help you learn the time-base functions and the voltage scaling function. Make sure that your probe and DSO have the same probe multiplier settings. 10x preferred depending on the scope.
@ellensburgamplifier It has a built in signal generator so I'll try and set it up like that.
I have an amplifier, it is the same one that you show in the video, it turns on protected. What would be the main fault it may have? thank you
It will likely have a short in the output section of the amplifier most likely the output transistors.
@@ellensburgamplifier Can you help me repair the amplifier I only have a little knowledge in a more detailed way Maybe I can contact you in a faster way.
@@snowcota9611 I am always happy to help people fix their amplifiers but I do warn that without class D knowledge and a scope it may be difficult to do. first thing to do is to pull all of the output transistors and see if it starts from there. I am always available by email. All of the business information is located at www.ellensburgamplifier.com
I need to find someone that can do this around fort worth Texas
Good repair techs are hard to find. I don't think I know anyone around Texas. Maybe you would like to learn!
How can I contact you
Maybe I can just send mine to you
I have the same planet audio amp I seen you fix and mine keeps kicking the protector lite on with nothing hooked up but the power/remote/and ground . It's something internal you seem to know what you're doing I need a way to contact you to send this to you to have it fixed
@@DARKNESS-ne2ws If you are interested in a free quote please check out my website FAQs at www.ellensburgamplifier.com
👍👀👍
Thank you for your support!
what is the best place to order parts
Depends on where you are located. Here in the states, I use Mouser, Arrow, Digikey and for international ordering, I use LCSC and 2 companies direct for my large orders.
That's weird how they soldered two pieces of wire under side I guess youd say
I said "what the heck?' as soon as I flipped it over. I still have to look up those transistors to see the ratings. I would think the drain leg VIA's would fail long before the primary trace does.