Just finished my stairs at home . My first time remodeling stairs . One of the only things that can be done in a home that I had not yet done , despite being a professional tradesman, I work strictly in the commercial building trades but I have never hired anyone to work on my house or my vehicles . So I stripped the carpet and the plywood down to the stringers and installed the treads and risers up against the stringers . I went with the oak treads and risers and I used the template they sell at the box stores to cut the ends of the boards to fit nicely they way yours fit. Which look very very nice btw. . . It was useful after making a couple of modifications to it. I ran the treads thru the planer before I stained and sealed them just to ensure they weren’t cupped as well as giving me a reason to use my planer . Which has a tiny chip on one of the blades that had to be replaced. After pushing them jokers thru the planer, which is the loudest tool I own ,then I cut them to size on my 12” miter saw (in my trade (Glaziers Local 2001☝🏼)we call a miter saw a sling blade , I mean we call it a chop saws , but I know what an actual chop saw is so I’ll call It by its correct name . I cut the material with it and everything fit beautifully. I did one thing different to what I’m assuming to be industry standard . I used approximately zero mechanical fasteners . Instead I bought the $12 per cartridge loctite poly based adhesive that’s they claim is their strongest product . And I used a lot of it . 1 cartridge per step. A couple of reasons . 1 being the obvious, no filler needed to fill nail holes , 2. Nails are a point that will often over time start to create an audible noise that we refer to as a squeak. And the final reason is the it’s my damn house and I get to do whatever I want and if I decide that the treads needed to be nailed at some point then I can grab one of my nail guns and hook that mutha up to one of my compressors (yeah I have a unhealthy addiction to buying tools , even if I don’t necessarily need them or if I already have the tool and I see a great deal on something, so I would grab the 18guage and load that mutha with a rack of 2 inchers and kuh-chee ,Kuh-chee,Kuh-chee , now there is nails. Good video BTW! ✌🏻👌🏻🤜🏻🤘🏻😂
I agree it is dangerous. On a positive note I've been doing it for so long it like tying shoes. I've almost got it dialed in where I can cut it pretty square without marking it 1st . On flooring 😁. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOORI picked up a little table saw for cheap like 2 summers ago, tried cutting a little half inch strip off of a small chunk of MDF, and that mutha fucka shot across the room…. I ain’t touched that devil since.
Nice, I have been thinking about buying some cheap pine treads for my 10-year-old carpeted stairs that my kids and pet have pretty much destroyed. Love the white shelf board riser. These look as good as I thought they would and the price is right. Thanks for all the great tips, I will be starting this project soon but I think I will buy a stair tread tool instead of the carboard.
WOOOOOWWWW!!!!! This is an EXELLENT VIDEO!! What a great job you did! I have seen lots of these videos and this is by far the best one! You made a short easy-to-understand video and absolutely solve the massive problem and transformed the entire situation! You have the best idea of anyone and did the best job! I also read a couple of comments and I could tell by the way you answer people, that you're just a very nice person! It was just so refreshing to see this video and also to get the answer to my problem! Thanks so much!! 😊👍👍👍😊😊😊
Thank you so much for this. I've been wanting to redo my stairs and this video is exactly what I was looking for as far how to do it. You're a pro man!
If I go this route I'll save about$40 per step compared to what I was planning on doing, buying prefinished from an online retailer. Great video, thank you
I cant even lie when I saw him rush and use a recip saw and a 5 way to trim immediately I am thinking this will be a jacked up install..But man it turned out pretty dope.. Definitely would hire this guy..And this the first video I've watched of him..
Yeah man. And if you're using the 4 in 1 transitions from pergo. They send a black plastic u shaped strip to go o deer the metal for that purpose too. Check out my latest video for example. Thanks for the comment
Not really. All that's happening is the cardboard is giving enough lift to let the transition click in. once that happens, even if the cardboard could be removed, the screws are set at a specific height, pulling the transition downward, tight to the laminate. Thanks for the question
Using your technique, would it Take care of squeaky steps??? Im a novice DIYer but watching your vídeo is giving me the courage to tackle my stairs.thanks
A lot of the time the squeaks are cause by wood rubbing against wood. When you start the new stairs make sure the stringer are attached to the walls and landing. Maybe even squirt some liquid nails in cracks. Also make sure to use plenty of glue when installing new treads. This will make the stringer and tread become one and should take care of any movement cause by rubbing. (Glue is key) that's why you hear squeaks in old houses. Today every sheet of subfloor is glued and screwed. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Well if You just run your risers up underneath the treads the new step cover may not cover the whole tread.you could see a little bit sticking out of the bottom. So you would have to run your risers flush to the top and then cap them both over with the new staircover. In this situation the stair nose stuck out farther than the sides of the stairs so I cut it off so that the nose would be inside of the sides. Normally when I have a set of steps that's in between 2 walls I do it the way you suggested.hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you so much for replying can you do a video on the steps between two walls will help so many 😊 I am using a ready unfinished tread from home depot 48" long and 1/2 in thickness so was just trying not to cut the overhang and just install on the top of it and then add a trim to cover the overhang and another under it touching the risers.
If you go to my channel I have a lot of Playlist. One called stair remodeling. Could have what you're looking for. I send a link for that Playlist. Thanks for the question and comment. th-cam.com/play/PLKBAgusLCn7ZFUDdTEmltJG4ZlztfyQZH.html
That depends on how high the bottom step is. Codes say steps shouldn't be taller than 7 3/4 inches. If your bottom step is higher than 7 3/4" inches with new treads, I would remove the 2×12s and go back with 1 inch treads. You can go as tall as 8 inches in your own house but you start risking them being a trip hazard the taller they get. Also if the top step or any of them are shorter than 4 inches it can also be awkward walking up them. Idealy a good height is aroun 7 to 7 1/2 inches tall.Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
It should work no matter how many steps. Just know that there will be a difference in the top and bottom step. Make sure the bottom is not taller than 8 inches. That's always a tripper for me. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Can you use a Thompson Stair Tool w/ a 1x1 spanner instead of the cardboard? I understand they’re out of square ? Of course unless you tried that? And I am a finish carpenter but in all my years I stayed away from stairs that is for a guy like you ( pro).
Absolutely, I have used that tool and one called the stair wizard. But before I bought my stair tool, this is the method I used. I learned from a countertop guy when he'd templated his countertops. I just figured this would be a good DIY tip for the average homeowner who doesn't want to spend money on the tool they're only gonna use once. But yeah I love doing stairs. Thanks for the comment
I your talking about using stairnose you will unless you run the riser up p flush to the top of the old teads. Maybe this video will help explain. th-cam.com/video/eBAm4UwdrfI/w-d-xo.html
Those were just regular 3/4 inches stair nosing. They can be purchased at any home store. Floor and decore has many stair nose options. Including laminate and lvp nosing. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Yes and the quality of a 2x4 is not as good either. Went through 10 studs to find 1 straight one. The oak treads are now a veneer on some type of mdf like material. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR Is there a particular name for the step riser that is shiny and easy to clean? I am trying to order on-line, but it's not clear which riser it is.
We have tried many different thing to save money. Typically the riser they sell with the treads are around. $11. So we go to the shelving section and buy the 48 inch by 24 inch shelf. I just looked it up for you and its $18 so that's $6 a riser. Go to home depot and type I. 24x48 melamine shelf. I tried to find a link to share but was not successful. Hope that helps. Good luck on your project
Very helpful! Thanks again. Question: 1)how to get the first stair riser for the 1st bottom stair which is longer and have both side opens on 1st floor? 2) I have the 3 stair turns like triangle flat, how to make those consistent with other stairs? Thank you very much!
1) for the long riser you probably will have to do 45°miters and return them into the wall. Kinda like you're building a box. Then when you set the tread, you can miter the cove mold underneath and it look perfect. 2) for those you will need to run flooring and the cap them off with a stair nose. Hope that helps if you have any more questions send me some pics to zconstructionllc@gmail.com. we'll get it figured out. Thanks for the question
Yes, I cut the nose off. But by bringing the riser all the way to the top, it bumped it back out 3/3 of an inch. The nose hung over about an inch and a 1/4, but after the cove molding, it's around a half inch. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What’s the paint or stainer you used called? It’s not on your list there. I am doing my steps and plan on doing the risers first then the steps. I have too many steps. Please let me know I am trying to get the same color
Video idea for you. Do a new install of tread and riser, removing the old ones. Then do an install the proper way, dado and rabbets for the tread and risers to meet so you never have problems with gappage when the wood expands and contracts.
You must have watched the same video I did. Yeah that's true craftmanship. I dont know anyone that builds them that way anymore. But it's YouFloor not Hometime. Lol. Its supposed to be diy friendly. Thanks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR I saw that video as well, I'm going to do your method because it is more DIY friendly, not going to go out an buy a router and tear up old treads when I can just refinish the ones I have.
Very informative video, Sir I have a question i have squeaky stairs , does it help when I do the exact thing you did or I have to take-out the old stairs.
Well sir. I just did a stair cover job so I can tell you the squeaking g comes from the treads not being glued and screwed. I wanted I mention that I install 3/4 inch hardwood on the bottom floor and on the top floor and after putting these treads on top of the old treads only made a difference of a quarter of an inch. if you are installing the style treads that are 1" on your stairs and the 1st step is higher than 7 and a 1/4, you may have to take the old treads off and use these new ones as your treads. In any case if you want the squeaking to go away, I would pull up the old treads and glue them down to the stringers then screw them down. That should eliminate the squeaks. Then you can cap them with the new treads. I would glue and nail them. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Very nice work, but I use a 4x8 foot x 1/4 inch oak plywood panel with oak nose I mill from oak boards on each step. It's enough for one and a half staircases and cost $3.21 per step.
Shhh don't spoil it. I've been telling kellie for weeks I want to make that video. I know it will take more time but if the average home owner is willing to work on it in spare time... like you said, would save a whole lot of money. Will give you a shout out if I can ever get to the video.😁Thanks for the comment.
Great video.. thanks. I have 3 stairs going into garage. Looks like they are made from OSB. Will this technique work on that too? And do I need to buy anything different to protect from moisture and such, since this is heavily traffic area of the house. Thanks so much, Esha
You would need a stair nose at the top that matches you laminate. But if you already have a stair nose that ties into a banister and skirt board then you will need to use an end cap transition to wrapp around it. If this is the case. Send me a pic and I'll email you back a pic of one I did like this. Zconstructionllc@gmail.com thanks for the question
@Madison Goddyn yes the bottom step will be 1” taller and your top step will be 1” shorter to the landing. All other steps will be the same distance from tread to tread as they are now. This is pretty common when refacing steps. You want to make sure your bottom step is not taller than 8”, if it is you will have to remove the old treads and replace them with just the 1”treads only. This may require you to fur up the stringer l in case the top step is higher than 8”. Hope this helps.
I’m wanting to start my stair project and have watched many videos. But everyone tells you to do it differently. 1. After I remove the carpet I thought I had to remove the construction treads and risers but you’re placing the new treads and risers on top. I was told that that first step won’t be to code because it’ll be too high if I do this. Help? 2. I was also told that the risers go on first then the treads otherwise the tread won’t be wide enough (vs the riser sitting on the tread). Argh. Can someone please advise?
What's stopping you. I believe you can be anything you wanna be if you do the work. My wife's is my partner and she will run circles around some of my former employees. That's why she's my only helper now. Baby steps.lets go. Thanks for the comment
Hi I believe you installed Pine treads. What’s the pro and con for those? My builder used those and their under my carpet. Most installers are advising to use oak treads at a cost of $80-$100, which means cut nose and fill in gaps in sides from cutting nose. I want to do what’s right without breaking bank as I have 27 steps upstairs and wanted to start by doing 15 steps to basement. Any feedback on just refinishing existing pine and quality of pine treads would be appreciated! Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. To start with let's talk about codes. You wanna make sure that when you're setting your treads on they're not higher than 7 3/4. This would make it very uncomfortable to walk up and down. The bottom step and the top step are really going to be your only concerns. If your bottom steps is more than 7inches right now off the floor, once you add a 1 inch tread the bottom step would be 8 inches plus. The rest of the steps won't be an issue, as you lay inch you will be taking it away with the next. As far as the treads go, we have never had any issues with installing pine treads. We always give our customers the options of oak or pine. Using the pine gives us more of a natural canvas to color coordinate with the existing floors and it saves the customer about $15 a tread when we get them at home depot. Unless your treads are more than 42 inches, you shouldn't be paying $80+ for an oak tread. Pine treads are softer than oak so if you are going to be wearing high heels on them I would go with oak. And as you mentioned, if you really want to save some money and you have a little time on your hands, I watched a video that may be very helpful to you. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/AI1poE8dn10/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps! Have a great day. The
This unorthodox way of using a small-looking table saw is a common cabinet and millwork saw. Only to be used by tradesmen familiar with this tool. Because of it's openness it can be very dangerous
Probably melamine. They are like the selves that you would put in a closet. Or on a wall for books. We cut them up to uses as risers. The finish is easy to clean too.
The gun is a Hitachi 18 gauge brad nailer.and those are 2 inch nails. I've since then replaced thre Hitachi with a dewalt 18 gauge. I love it. Way smaller hole to putty. And much smoother. Thanks for the question
I use 16 gauge to nail down my flooring. It has a thicker nail, but it makes a bigger hole. When I'm nailing down the steps. I like to let the glue do the work. And I use 16 gauge Brad nails. For 2 reasons, one, it holds the step tight. While the glue dries and two, it makes a smaller hole and can be easily be filled with a matching putty. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
We are getting ready to redo our stairs as we used to have carpet. At the time the contractor didn’t put in a skirt board but now we would like to put that in. Is it best to put that in before and how does one go about that. Do you have a video on doing that
Are you guys going back with carpet or are you re covering them with wood. I'll see if I can come up with something. Thanks for the question. In the mean time if any of my stair guys have any advice feel free to comment below. I'll be in touch
Please be safe. I think Vinyl, Laminate, and hardwood are all dangerous on stairs. I know carpets are dirty. I think using a easily replaceable carpet runner may be the best way to go. You only have to fall down from a slippery stairs once to realize carpet is the safest option. Since permanent carpet is too hard to replace therefore I recommend a runner option.
I recently had a contractor install treads purchased from Home Depot. He did not cut the nose off and I ask him to redo them. He said he would not cut it off because it would ruin my staircase so I’m going to do it myself. I want to cut nose off and reinstall the treads. My question to you is how do I take the treads off without damaging them?
Well actually Patricia when you install cap a tread or the 1/4 stair covers you are not supposed to cut the nose off. They are designed to cover the old treads without cutting the nose off. Back in the day that was the only way but today more manufacturers are trying to make installation much smoother. Cutting the nose off is a pain. And depending on how much the nose hangs over if you cut them then you will have to cut the treads and then your stairs may be out of code. The treads I used in this video are and actual steps 1 inch thick. not as wide as the cap a tread. So I had to cut the nose off. And I got lucky cause by raising both floors with hardwood I was able to go right on top of the old 2x12 treads. If I had not installed the hardwood I wood have had to use cap a tread or pull the old 2x12 off too. But if you are insisting on cutting the noses off.. 1st off is there any big gaps due to the install. If it looks right but you want the noses cut off it may move everything back and leave bare spots on the floor. Honestly if the installer glued and nailed them there is no easy way to tear them out without destroying at least some of them. But if you really want to take them off start at the top. Use a prybar, maybe two and go slow. Pry out towards you not back. A 5 in 1 is good tool to have as well for cutting glue when prying on treads and risers. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out. If you would like me to take a look send me some pic to zconstructionllc@gmail.com. thanks for the question. Sorry for the long answer
Great job! Looks beautiful, love the pecan poly finish you used. Thx for posting! Recently bought same treads at HD, planning to install soon, replacing a 13 tread carpeted particle board stairway. Some questions if you can spare the time: 1. snug fit at tread ends to the skirts on your job, is there a risk with expansion, or is that only for tread depth from the bullnose to where tread butts to riser? 2. possibly a camera angle thing, but upper riser looks about an inch taller than the lower two risers. If so, I heard that's a no-no by code to not have the step down and tread widths less than uniform to within a 1/4"? 3. A couple of my particle board treads sound like elephants mating when stepped on. I'd like to avoid that with the new pine treads if you can offer some words of wisdom on that. Also, the particle board treads are the same thickness as the new treads, which will make final tread too thick to do an overlay as you did, leaving too tall a riser, not to mention a double bullnose, so I'm planning to remove the particle board treads. That will leave me with original stringers, and the risers which I'm planning to reuse, putty staple paint same white color as walls. When putting the new treads down, how should I adhere them to the existing risers to avoid lifting and squeaking? (I was thinking biscuits, but if you have a smarter way, please advise) 4. after stairs are done, I'm planning to overlay with a runner carpet, but not sure how to secure it without messing up the new work on the stairs. Any tips? thanks again!
#1 Wow ok. Let's get into it. I will try to answer all your questions to the best of my ability and knowledge. As far as expansion gap I don't ever put one the side of my treads. If you use liquid nails to attach the treads this will help with movement. Also we caulk the side of the tread to help bond them and it gives them a finished look. One time I had a set of 13 steps and the knee wall underneath wasn't centered witch cause some rubbing. Had to remove and buzz a blade off and the caulk. Only one step though. #2 Good eye brother. Actually THESE are 2 different set if steps. I didn't have video of the main set of me using the cardboard. So I put that in for reference. But yeah the set where I have on long sleeve. I had to take out and redo those steps. When I tried to go on top of 2× 12 treads they were way over 8 inches. So I took of the treads. Problem was who ever framed this house... well let's just say the rise was 3 different numbers the top was definitely taller. I had a time getting all 3 of them right and alll within code. This is the same house in my video how to repair a subfloor. This house had some issues. But the set where I was wearing short sleeves. Those were all 7 5/8. I got luck on those. #3 hmm I always glue my treads to the stringers. I try to bring the riser all the way to the top of the stringer. Some times the step could be higher on one side than the other. So I go with the tallest number if there's any gap between the I feel it with glue but I also glue acrossed the top of the riser and the new tread will bridge from the stringer to the riser. If its mor that 3/16 I'll remove the treD and rip it in half to remove the cup. I put 3, 18 gauge nails in the front. Make sure your standing on tread to push in all the way down tight. This will make it all one with stringer tread and riser. Clean up with 100% acetone or denatured alcohol. (One more tip about this) I put nails in the tread at the back and the set my riser on top. This hides all nails. If you do this make make sure to put a strait edge across the back as close as you can from side to side. Put shims in to fill any dip in the middle or on the ends. Last thing you wanna do is pull a tread that is glued and nailed under the riser. Ugh. Can't remember your last question. I'll come back
Oh ok so I know they make double stick tape for that exact reason. And if that's not strong enough they velcro. Hmmm open that helps. And thanks for the question. The answers may not always be right or wrong. But it how I get it done. I'm always learning new tricks and when I do I share them if they work for me. Good luck on all your project. Sounds like you're about to have some fun. Take care peace
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks so much for all your detailed explanation! You mentioned I had a good eye, but I didn't catch that it was two diff sets of steps, or the different shirts. ( : I can't imagine some of the crazy work you must come across like the different size of risers. I'm just wanting to get the steps as right as possible my first time around so they're not rubbing and squeaking, and I'm not having to pull things up the next year. Anyhow, I'm feeling a lot better about some of the odd stuff I might run into and that I'll be able to come up with a plan to solve it. Thanks again!
Oak is generally considered more durable than pine. Pine is considered a softwood where as oak is categorized as a hardwood. Run the edge of your nail down a piece of pine and it’ll will leave an indentation. Try the same on something like Red Oak, there’s a significant difference in the markings. I may not be a professional carpenter, but there is no way pine is more durable than oak. Oak typically has a significantly higher Janka hardness rating compared to pine. Red oak, for example, has a Janka hardness rating around 1,290 lbf, while Eastern White Pine may have a rating of around 380 lbf. This means oak is more resistant to denting, impact, and wear, making it a stronger wood for applications where strength is important.
I couldn't agree more. Oak is pretty durable. You can tell as they run through the saw, or when you shoot nails, they don't always sink. Pine is definitely softer. The only difference that mattered to this customer was the price. We gave them the option and explain the difference as you stated. But in my lone of work, "the customer is always the customer " so if they say pine to save money, then pine it is. Thanks for the comment
By any chance have you done curved steps. I want to pull the carpet on my main entrance stairs but they are curved and no one posts videos how to handle the triangle steps. thx.
Just finished my stairs at home . My first time remodeling stairs . One of the only things that can be done in a home that I had not yet done , despite being a professional tradesman, I work strictly in the commercial building trades but I have never hired anyone to work on my house or my vehicles . So I stripped the carpet and the plywood down to the stringers and installed the treads and risers up against the stringers . I went with the oak treads and risers and I used the template they sell at the box stores to cut the ends of the boards to fit nicely they way yours fit. Which look very very nice btw. . . It was useful after making a couple of modifications to it. I ran the treads thru the planer before I stained and sealed them just to ensure they weren’t cupped as well as giving me a reason to use my planer . Which has a tiny chip on one of the blades that had to be replaced. After pushing them jokers thru the planer, which is the loudest tool I own ,then I cut them to size on my 12” miter saw (in my trade (Glaziers Local 2001☝🏼)we call a miter saw a sling blade , I mean we call it a chop saws , but I know what an actual chop saw is so I’ll call
It by its correct name . I cut the material with it and everything fit beautifully. I did one thing different to what I’m assuming to be industry standard . I used approximately zero mechanical fasteners . Instead I bought the $12 per cartridge loctite poly based adhesive that’s they claim is their strongest product . And I used a lot of it . 1 cartridge per step. A couple of reasons . 1 being the obvious, no filler needed to fill nail holes , 2. Nails are a point that will often over time start to create an audible noise that we refer to as a squeak. And the final reason is the it’s my damn house and I get to do whatever I want and if I decide that the treads needed to be nailed at some point then I can grab one of my nail guns and hook that mutha up to one of my compressors (yeah I have a unhealthy addiction to buying tools , even if I don’t necessarily need them or if I already have the tool and I see a great deal on something, so I would grab the 18guage and load that mutha with a rack of 2 inchers and kuh-chee ,Kuh-chee,Kuh-chee , now there is nails. Good video BTW! ✌🏻👌🏻🤜🏻🤘🏻😂
Thanks for sharing all your tips and details about your project
pro tip go to lumber yard for treads get long lengths cut to size . save a lot of money
NICE!! THANKS FOR THE TIP!
Would that be safe to do ? Isn’t every riser a little different in size ? I’m preparing to do my stairs myself. Rugs to hardwood
im impressed af at that freehand table saw cross cut.... dangerous af and i would never do it but still impressed
I agree it is dangerous. On a positive note I've been doing it for so long it like tying shoes. I've almost got it dialed in where I can cut it pretty square without marking it 1st . On flooring 😁. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOORI picked up a little table saw for cheap like 2 summers ago, tried cutting a little half inch strip off of a small chunk of MDF, and that mutha fucka shot across the room…. I ain’t touched that devil since.
@APinTheAK lmao that cracked me up. They can be very danderous.
Thanks for sharing your install new stairs and I love it!🥰😍🤩😘
Nice, I have been thinking about buying some cheap pine treads for my 10-year-old carpeted stairs that my kids and pet have pretty much destroyed. Love the white shelf board riser. These look as good as I thought they would and the price is right. Thanks for all the great tips, I will be starting this project soon but I think I will buy a stair tread tool instead of the carboard.
Right on. I bought one of those too. Very helpful. Thanks for the comment
WOOOOOWWWW!!!!!
This is an EXELLENT VIDEO!! What a great job you did! I have seen lots of these videos and this is by far the best one! You made a short easy-to-understand video and absolutely solve the massive problem and transformed the entire situation! You have the best idea of anyone and did the best job! I also read a couple of comments and I could tell by the way you answer people, that you're just a very nice person! It was just so refreshing to see this video and also to get the answer to my problem! Thanks so much!! 😊👍👍👍😊😊😊
Well, those are all very kind words, and I appreciate it. I'm glad you found them valuable . Thanks so much for the comment. See ya on the next one
@@YOUFLOOR 😊👍
Thank you so much for this. I've been wanting to redo my stairs and this video is exactly what I was looking for as far how to do it. You're a pro man!
WOW!!! After your videos, I have NO fear on my DIYs 😂😂😂 GOOD STUFF
That's Awesome. Thank you so much. Love to hear about your projects. Thanks for the comment
Just found your channel excellent information explained so beautifully thank you best vlog on stairs just getting on with it no rambling.
I appreciate that. Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your project
If I go this route I'll save about$40 per step compared to what I was planning on doing, buying prefinished from an online retailer. Great video, thank you
Right on
I really like your method of installation, thank you ! ❤
I cant even lie when I saw him rush and use a recip saw and a 5 way to trim immediately I am thinking this will be a jacked up install..But man it turned out pretty dope.. Definitely would hire this guy..And this the first video I've watched of him..
Thanks man. Glad you hung around for the finish. Thanks for the comment .
That cardboard trick is a game-changer! Thanks man!
Yeah man. And if you're using the 4 in 1 transitions from pergo. They send a black plastic u shaped strip to go o deer the metal for that purpose too. Check out my latest video for example. Thanks for the comment
Does the cardboard compress with time?
Not really. All that's happening is the cardboard is giving enough lift to let the transition click in. once that happens, even if the cardboard could be removed, the screws are set at a specific height, pulling the transition downward, tight to the laminate. Thanks for the question
Best video I've seen! Love the cardboard trick
Appreciate that. Thanks for the comment
Great trick with these stained pine stairs - adding it to my renovation plan right away! Thank you!
You hot it. Thanks for the comment 😁
You saved me a ton of money...thank you. I'll be doing stairs soon.
Awesome. Good luck on your project
Oh my God! I’m so glad I saw your video, thanks.
You got it. Np.
I was looking for cheap but strong retrofit stairs. You nailed it.
Awesome. Yes can't beat the price for the sturdiness it brings to the table. Thanks for the comment.
I'm redoing my stairs myself and I found your video very helpful! Thank you so much :)
So glad to hear that. Thanks for the comment
Using your technique, would it Take care of squeaky steps??? Im a novice DIYer but watching your vídeo is giving me the courage to tackle my stairs.thanks
A lot of the time the squeaks are cause by wood rubbing against wood. When you start the new stairs make sure the stringer are attached to the walls and landing. Maybe even squirt some liquid nails in cracks. Also make sure to use plenty of glue when installing new treads. This will make the stringer and tread become one and should take care of any movement cause by rubbing. (Glue is key) that's why you hear squeaks in old houses. Today every sheet of subfloor is glued and screwed. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I'm using these techniques for my 13 step stairs...thanks man!
Got got it my brotha. Thanks for the comment
Thank you 😊
One question why remove the stairs overhang why not install over it and then cover it with nice trim ? Never could understand why not
Well if You just run your risers up underneath the treads the new step cover may not cover the whole tread.you could see a little bit sticking out of the bottom. So you would have to run your risers flush to the top and then cap them both over with the new staircover. In this situation the stair nose stuck out farther than the sides of the stairs so I cut it off so that the nose would be inside of the sides. Normally when I have a set of steps that's in between 2 walls I do it the way you suggested.hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR
Thank you so much for replying can you do a video on the steps between two walls will help so many 😊
I am using a ready unfinished tread from home depot 48" long and 1/2 in thickness so was just trying not to cut the overhang and just install on the top of it and then add a trim to cover the overhang and another under it touching the risers.
If you go to my channel I have a lot of Playlist. One called stair remodeling. Could have what you're looking for. I send a link for that Playlist. Thanks for the question and comment. th-cam.com/play/PLKBAgusLCn7ZFUDdTEmltJG4ZlztfyQZH.html
When remove carpet, and do wood tread, Is it better to leave 2*12 there or remove them first before install new stair treads? Thanks
That depends on how high the bottom step is. Codes say steps shouldn't be taller than 7 3/4 inches. If your bottom step is higher than 7 3/4" inches with new treads, I would remove the 2×12s and go back with 1 inch treads. You can go as tall as 8 inches in your own house but you start risking them being a trip hazard the taller they get. Also if the top step or any of them are shorter than 4 inches it can also be awkward walking up them. Idealy a good height is aroun 7 to 7 1/2 inches tall.Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Good tips. Wish oak was cheaper. Pine is kinda soft for flooring.
great job really liked all the PRO TIPS
Thanks so much. Appreciate the comment
Great video. Thank you! We are in process of redoing our stairs now. 🙏🏼
I'm on a stair job too. It's been a little tricky but I believe the thinking part
Is done. Now just have to do it. Video the whole thing.
Beautiful bro
Awesome job ❤
Thank you
Question: Would this work for 13 steps? Asking because wouldn't you be adding to the elevation of the existing tread? Love your video!
It should work no matter how many steps. Just know that there will be a difference in the top and bottom step. Make sure the bottom is not taller than 8 inches. That's always a tripper for me. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Can you use a Thompson Stair Tool w/ a 1x1 spanner instead of the cardboard? I understand they’re out of square ? Of course unless you tried that? And I am a finish carpenter but in all my years I stayed away from stairs that is for a guy like you ( pro).
Absolutely, I have used that tool and one called the stair wizard. But before I bought my stair tool, this is the method I used. I learned from a countertop guy when he'd templated his countertops. I just figured this would be a good DIY tip for the average homeowner who doesn't want to spend money on the tool they're only gonna use once. But yeah I love doing stairs. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR makes sense ! Thanks for the video!
New subscriber, enjoyed your video. I like the explanation most don't give.
Thank you
I have the bull nose sticking out on my stairs. Do I need to cut them off to install vinly bullnose?
I your talking about using stairnose you will unless you run the riser up p flush to the top of the old teads. Maybe this video will help explain. th-cam.com/video/eBAm4UwdrfI/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Love the pro tips!
Thank you. And thanks for the comment
Hello- I have 2 stair landings. I'm wondering what did you used for stair nosing in the transition on your video? Thanks!
Those were just regular 3/4 inches stair nosing. They can be purchased at any home store. Floor and decore has many stair nose options. Including laminate and lvp nosing. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Thanks for the video. Now four years later pine treads are $13 each but not as nice as it used to be with lots of knots.
The treads you picked up are like furniture grade boards with no defects shown on it.
Where did you get them for $13? I only saw them for $45
Home depot or lowes
@tedlu008 I got these from h.d. But I’m sure Lowe’s will have them too
Yes and the quality of a 2x4 is not as good either. Went through 10 studs to find 1 straight one. The oak treads are now a veneer on some type of mdf like material. Thanks for the comment
Awesome video
Ty
Amazing video 👍🏼
Thank you!
Love your skills, your awesome
Wow. Thanks brotha. I'm sure you're awesome as well. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR Is there a particular name for the step riser that is shiny and easy to clean? I am trying to order on-line, but it's not clear which riser it is.
We have tried many different thing to save money. Typically the riser they sell with the treads are around. $11. So we go to the shelving section and buy the 48 inch by 24 inch shelf. I just looked it up for you and its $18 so that's $6 a riser. Go to home depot and type I. 24x48 melamine shelf. I tried to find a link to share but was not successful. Hope that helps. Good luck on your project
I do appreciate, I'm about to fix my stairs that are short on the risers
Awesome. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment
Awesome video.
Thank you
Great video 👍👍
@Clara Castillo Thanks
Very helpful! Thanks again. Question: 1)how to get the first stair riser for the 1st bottom stair which is longer and have both side opens on 1st floor? 2) I have the 3 stair turns like triangle flat, how to make those consistent with other stairs? Thank you very much!
1) for the long riser you probably will have to do 45°miters and return them into the wall. Kinda like you're building a box. Then when you set the tread, you can miter the cove mold underneath and it look perfect. 2) for those you will need to run flooring and the cap them off with a stair nose. Hope that helps if you have any more questions send me some pics to zconstructionllc@gmail.com. we'll get it figured out. Thanks for the question
Question: How much did you let the tread hang over the riser, and did you cut the nose flush with the riser in the beginning?
Yes, I cut the nose off. But by bringing the riser all the way to the top, it bumped it back out 3/3 of an inch. The nose hung over about an inch and a 1/4, but after the cove molding, it's around a half inch. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Nice Job👍💥
I replace carpet w laminate treads last year and now the starcase is creaky all over. I'm thinking I need to rip them out and replace w/ hardwood.
that cardboard tip was great!
Thank you and thanks for the comment
Very helpful thanks
Glad it helped
that was the most cost effective stair jig that I've seen so far!!!
Awesome. Glad to hear. Thanks for the comment
Can you do a video about installing stairs on the back of a house! I need that kind of help!
You mean like an outside set of steps?
Question: What is the correct name of the white riser that is easy to clean. It's very shiny, clean, and looks polished?
Those are melamine. They are in the shelving section at lowes or home depot
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you so much.
What’s the paint or stainer you used called? It’s not on your list there. I am doing my steps and plan on doing the risers first then the steps. I have too many steps. Please let me know I am trying to get the same color
@John Green I believe we used a gunstock stain or a spice oak stain. Thanks for the question and let me know if you have any trouble.
Finally a staircase like mine🏆tk u
You got it! Good luck with your project.
Did you measure the tread flush to the riser, or did you let it hang over a bit?
I let it hang over about 3/4s of an inch and then place a small cove molding underneath. Thanks for the question.
Thanks for the video. I would never been able to afford tread and riser for 15steps
Video idea for you. Do a new install of tread and riser, removing the old ones.
Then do an install the proper way, dado and rabbets for the tread and risers to meet so you never have problems with gappage when the wood expands and contracts.
You must have watched the same video I did. Yeah that's true craftmanship. I dont know anyone that builds them that way anymore. But it's YouFloor not Hometime. Lol. Its supposed to be diy friendly. Thanks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR I saw that video as well, I'm going to do your method because it is more DIY friendly, not going to go out an buy a router and tear up old treads when I can just refinish the ones I have.
Great video! My upcoming project.
Very informative video, Sir I have a question i have squeaky stairs , does it help when I do the exact thing you did or I have to take-out the old stairs.
Well sir. I just did a stair cover job so I can tell you the squeaking g comes from the treads not being glued and screwed. I wanted I mention that I install 3/4 inch hardwood on the bottom floor and on the top floor and after putting these treads on top of the old treads only made a difference of a quarter of an inch. if you are installing the style treads that are 1" on your stairs and the 1st step is higher than 7 and a 1/4, you may have to take the old treads off and use these new ones as your treads. In any case if you want the squeaking to go away, I would pull up the old treads and glue them down to the stringers then screw them down. That should eliminate the squeaks. Then you can cap them with the new treads. I would glue and nail them. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Much Appreciated, thanks for the reply.
Very nice work, but I use a 4x8 foot x 1/4 inch oak plywood panel with oak nose I mill from oak boards on each step. It's enough for one and a half staircases and cost $3.21 per step.
Shhh don't spoil it. I've been telling kellie for weeks I want to make that video. I know it will take more time but if the average home owner is willing to work on it in spare time... like you said, would save a whole lot of money. Will give you a shout out if I can ever get to the video.😁Thanks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR Looking forward to the video, lol.
Nice stimulus saw! I got a stimulus hedge trimmer and some stimulus bourbon.
😂😂😂😂good one
Great video.. thanks.
I have 3 stairs going into garage. Looks like they are made from OSB. Will this technique work on that too?
And do I need to buy anything different to protect from moisture and such, since this is heavily traffic area of the house.
Thanks so much,
Esha
Great job! Thanks I learned a lot for my project. Can you tell me how to make laminate flooring meet the top of stairs?
You would need a stair nose at the top that matches you laminate. But if you already have a stair nose that ties into a banister and skirt board then you will need to use an end cap transition to wrapp around it. If this is the case. Send me a pic and I'll email you back a pic of one I did like this. Zconstructionllc@gmail.com thanks for the question
Using this method, won't the top and bottom steps be 1" taller, since you just added the new tread onto the existing?
@Madison Goddyn yes the bottom step will be 1” taller and your top step will be 1” shorter to the landing. All other steps will be the same distance from tread to tread as they are now. This is pretty common when refacing steps. You want to make sure your bottom step is not taller than 8”, if it is you will have to remove the old treads and replace them with just the 1”treads only. This may require you to fur up the stringer l in case the top step is higher than 8”. Hope this helps.
Great job! And some great tips!
Thank you. And thanks for the comment
very good job
Why thank you. Thanks for the comment
I’m wanting to start my stair project and have watched many videos. But everyone tells you to do it differently. 1. After I remove the carpet I thought I had to remove the construction treads and risers but you’re placing the new treads and risers on top. I was told that that first step won’t be to code because it’ll be too high if I do this. Help?
2. I was also told that the risers go on first then the treads otherwise the tread won’t be wide enough (vs the riser sitting on the tread).
Argh. Can someone please advise?
I wish I could be a Carpenter 😊
What's stopping you. I believe you can be anything you wanna be if you do the work. My wife's is my partner and she will run circles around some of my former employees. That's why she's my only helper now. Baby steps.lets go. Thanks for the comment
Hi
I believe you installed Pine treads. What’s the pro and con for those? My builder used those and their under my carpet. Most installers are advising to use oak treads at a cost of $80-$100, which means cut nose and fill in gaps in sides from cutting nose. I want to do what’s right without breaking bank as I have 27 steps upstairs and wanted to start by doing 15 steps to basement. Any feedback on just refinishing existing pine and quality of pine treads would be appreciated! Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. To start with let's talk about codes. You wanna make sure that when you're setting your treads on they're not higher than 7 3/4. This would make it very uncomfortable to walk up and down. The bottom step and the top step are really going to be your only concerns. If your bottom steps is more than 7inches right now off the floor, once you add a 1 inch tread the bottom step would be 8 inches plus. The rest of the steps won't be an issue, as you lay inch you will be taking it away with the next.
As far as the treads go, we have never had any issues with installing pine treads. We always give our customers the options of oak or pine. Using the pine gives us more of a natural canvas to color coordinate with the existing floors and it saves the customer about $15 a tread when we get them at home depot. Unless your treads are more than 42 inches, you shouldn't be paying $80+ for an oak tread.
Pine treads are softer than oak so if you are going to be wearing high heels on them I would go with oak. And as you mentioned, if you really want to save some money and you have a little time on your hands, I watched a video that may be very helpful to you. Here is the link
th-cam.com/video/AI1poE8dn10/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps! Have a great day. The
Is there any way to make them not so slick? Thank you for the video.
One word to you “ WoW” 👍🏻
This unorthodox way of using a small-looking table saw is a common cabinet and millwork saw. Only to be used by tradesmen familiar with this tool. Because of it's openness it can be very dangerous
Thanks for the comment
I wish I got finished treads I’m not looking forward to sanding and staining - has anyone stoned their treads black with the white risers ?
It’s all been done! I like the idea of black treads with white risers. Let me know if any questions come up. Good luck!
Thank you!!
You got it
The risers... Where they melamine or a primed wood that you used? Thanks and great video
Probably melamine. They are like the selves that you would put in a closet. Or on a wall for books. We cut them up to uses as risers. The finish is easy to clean too.
Which nail gun are you using for this project? Also size of nails? Thanks.
The gun is a Hitachi 18 gauge brad nailer.and those are 2 inch nails. I've since then replaced thre Hitachi with a dewalt 18 gauge. I love it. Way smaller hole to putty. And much smoother. Thanks for the question
thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment
Thanks!!
Why you use 2 different brad nailers?
I use 16 gauge to nail down my flooring. It has a thicker nail, but it makes a bigger hole. When I'm nailing down the steps. I like to let the glue do the work. And I use 16 gauge Brad nails. For 2 reasons, one, it holds the step tight. While the glue dries and two, it makes a smaller hole and can be easily be filled with a matching putty. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
So helpful! Thanks for all the pro tips!
I have 15 steps in my home I definitely will be spending more than $25 on stair treads. Lol!
Wow that's a lot of steps. Good luck on your project
The title said $25 EACH…
Great video. I don’t known where you live but I would love to get a quote for my stairs. I live in Summerville, South Carolina.
Yeah that would be a hike. I am going in Nashville Tennessee. Wish I was closer
Beautiful......mate....
Thank you sir
Excelente,buena explicación
Gracias
Thanks so much!
you got it
We are getting ready to redo our stairs as we used to have carpet. At the time the contractor didn’t put in a skirt board but now we would like to put that in. Is it best to put that in before and how does one go about that. Do you have a video on doing that
Are you guys going back with carpet or are you re covering them with wood. I'll see if I can come up with something. Thanks for the question. In the mean time if any of my stair guys have any advice feel free to comment below. I'll be in touch
We are putting wood treads down but we have to redo new treads as the ones that they put in for the carpet are 2 inch square nose ones.
What is a stimulus too???
Tools you buy with your stimulus check
Please be safe. I think Vinyl, Laminate, and hardwood are all dangerous on stairs. I know carpets are dirty. I think using a easily replaceable carpet runner may be the best way to go. You only have to fall down from a slippery stairs once to realize carpet is the safest option. Since permanent carpet is too hard to replace therefore I recommend a runner option.
I hear ya. I so short I tend to fall going up the steps. Thanks for the comment
what is the stained paint you use
Started off using pecan but it didn't seam dark enough so I hit it with some gunstock to achieve a more darker look. Thanks for the comment
Very nice
Why not use a circular saw & a flush cut pull saw?
Definitely not a bad idea. Thanks for the comment
I recently had a contractor install treads purchased from Home Depot. He did not cut the nose off and I ask him to redo them. He said he would not cut it off because it would ruin my staircase so I’m going to do it myself. I want to cut nose off and reinstall the treads. My question to you is how do I take the treads off without damaging them?
Well actually Patricia when you install cap a tread or the 1/4 stair covers you are not supposed to cut the nose off. They are designed to cover the old treads without cutting the nose off. Back in the day that was the only way but today more manufacturers are trying to make installation much smoother. Cutting the nose off is a pain. And depending on how much the nose hangs over if you cut them then you will have to cut the treads and then your stairs may be out of code. The treads I used in this video are and actual steps 1 inch thick. not as wide as the cap a tread. So I had to cut the nose off. And I got lucky cause by raising both floors with hardwood I was able to go right on top of the old 2x12 treads. If I had not installed the hardwood I wood have had to use cap a tread or pull the old 2x12 off too. But if you are insisting on cutting the noses off.. 1st off is there any big gaps due to the install. If it looks right but you want the noses cut off it may move everything back and leave bare spots on the floor. Honestly if the installer glued and nailed them there is no easy way to tear them out without destroying at least some of them. But if you really want to take them off start at the top. Use a prybar, maybe two and go slow. Pry out towards you not back. A 5 in 1 is good tool to have as well for cutting glue when prying on treads and risers. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out. If you would like me to take a look send me some pic to zconstructionllc@gmail.com. thanks for the question. Sorry for the long answer
Patricia, don't cut the treads! Check this out instead: th-cam.com/video/dRkRA0dK2j0/w-d-xo.html
Great job! Looks beautiful, love the pecan poly finish you used. Thx for posting!
Recently bought same treads at HD, planning to install soon, replacing a 13 tread carpeted particle board stairway. Some questions if you can spare the time:
1. snug fit at tread ends to the skirts on your job, is there a risk with expansion, or is that only for tread depth from the bullnose to where tread butts to riser?
2. possibly a camera angle thing, but upper riser looks about an inch taller than the lower two risers. If so, I heard that's a no-no by code to not have the step down and tread widths less than uniform to within a 1/4"?
3. A couple of my particle board treads sound like elephants mating when stepped on. I'd like to avoid that with the new pine treads if you can offer some words of wisdom on that. Also, the particle board treads are the same thickness as the new treads, which will make final tread too thick to do an overlay as you did, leaving too tall a riser, not to mention a double bullnose, so I'm planning to remove the particle board treads. That will leave me with original stringers, and the risers which I'm planning to reuse, putty staple paint same white color as walls. When putting the new treads down, how should I adhere them to the existing risers to avoid lifting and squeaking? (I was thinking biscuits, but if you have a smarter way, please advise)
4. after stairs are done, I'm planning to overlay with a runner carpet, but not sure how to secure it without messing up the new work on the stairs. Any tips?
thanks again!
#1 Wow ok. Let's get into it. I will try to answer all your questions to the best of my ability and knowledge. As far as expansion gap I don't ever put one the side of my treads. If you use liquid nails to attach the treads this will help with movement. Also we caulk the side of the tread to help bond them and it gives them a finished look. One time I had a set of 13 steps and the knee wall underneath wasn't centered witch cause some rubbing. Had to remove and buzz a blade off and the caulk. Only one step though.
#2 Good eye brother. Actually THESE are 2 different set if steps. I didn't have video of the main set of me using the cardboard. So I put that in for reference. But yeah the set where I have on long sleeve. I had to take out and redo those steps. When I tried to go on top of 2× 12 treads they were way over 8 inches. So I took of the treads. Problem was who ever framed this house... well let's just say the rise was 3 different numbers the top was definitely taller. I had a time getting all 3 of them right and alll within code. This is the same house in my video how to repair a subfloor. This house had some issues. But the set where I was wearing short sleeves. Those were all 7 5/8. I got luck on those.
#3 hmm I always glue my treads to the stringers. I try to bring the riser all the way to the top of the stringer. Some times the step could be higher on one side than the other. So I go with the tallest number if there's any gap between the I feel it with glue but I also glue acrossed the top of the riser and the new tread will bridge from the stringer to the riser. If its mor that 3/16 I'll remove the treD and rip it in half to remove the cup. I put 3, 18 gauge nails in the front. Make sure your standing on tread to push in all the way down tight. This will make it all one with stringer tread and riser. Clean up with 100% acetone or denatured alcohol. (One more tip about this) I put nails in the tread at the back and the set my riser on top. This hides all nails. If you do this make make sure to put a strait edge across the back as close as you can from side to side. Put shims in to fill any dip in the middle or on the ends. Last thing you wanna do is pull a tread that is glued and nailed under the riser. Ugh. Can't remember your last question. I'll come back
Oh ok so I know they make double stick tape for that exact reason. And if that's not strong enough they velcro. Hmmm open that helps. And thanks for the question. The answers may not always be right or wrong. But it how I get it done. I'm always learning new tricks and when I do I share them if they work for me. Good luck on all your project. Sounds like you're about to have some fun. Take care peace
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks so much for all your detailed explanation!
You mentioned I had a good eye, but I didn't catch that it was two diff sets of steps, or the different shirts. ( :
I can't imagine some of the crazy work you must come across like the different size of risers. I'm just wanting to get the steps as right as possible my first time around so they're not rubbing and squeaking, and I'm not having to pull things up the next year.
Anyhow, I'm feeling a lot better about some of the odd stuff I might run into and that I'll be able to come up with a plan to solve it.
Thanks again!
Fasola q
Not sure what that means but thank you. I think....😁
Isn’t pine to soft?
Definitely softer than oak
Oak is generally considered more durable than pine. Pine is considered a softwood where as oak is categorized as a hardwood.
Run the edge of your nail down a piece of pine and it’ll will leave an indentation. Try the same on something like Red Oak, there’s a significant difference in the markings.
I may not be a professional carpenter, but there is no way pine is more durable than oak.
Oak typically has a significantly higher Janka hardness rating compared to pine. Red oak, for example, has a Janka hardness rating around 1,290 lbf, while Eastern White Pine may have a rating of around 380 lbf. This means oak is more resistant to denting, impact, and wear, making it a stronger wood for applications where strength is important.
I couldn't agree more. Oak is pretty durable. You can tell as they run through the saw, or when you shoot nails, they don't always sink. Pine is definitely softer. The only difference that mattered to this customer was the price. We gave them the option and explain the difference as you stated. But in my lone of work, "the customer is always the customer " so if they say pine to save money, then pine it is. Thanks for the comment
Thnx
Some good tips but your audio is low. Thanks.
Well turn it up. Lol. Nah j/k I have a new camera now. Should be much better
By any chance have you done curved steps. I want to pull the carpet on my main entrance stairs but they are curved and no one posts videos how to handle the triangle steps. thx.
Dude I don't know your time frame But in a couple weeks I am doing just that. Ought to be a learning experience for us all😁
@@YOUFLOOR Excellent. i will watch for it.
I have a stimulus Bosh router =)
Nice. Time to build something.
Where are you located
Nashville Tennessee
Wow 3 years ago those were about $10 😮 now they’re $27
Yep. Prices are crazy
man those are thick risers. i usually use 1/4 or 3/8" MDF
I use different ones for different jobs. Whatever saves the customer money is generally the route I try to go.
🦌🎅⛄🎄
Just stopping by to say, god almighty do I miss those prices.. basically double now. $16+ for pine and over $44 for 48" long red oak -_-
Yep. The good Ole days. Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the video.
Please get a mic or a better mic.