Was searching for info on a Dodge waste gate issue I was working on and found your channel. Cool videos. In this case if I was sure the driver in the pcm was fried I would find a used or salvage pcm and program it and be done with it. Transistor drivers don't just fry by themselves though, always a root problem. Interested to see what was causing the symptom. I work mostly on Ford super dutys and with the twin alternator equipped models it can get complicated.
I bought a new alternator that did the same thing. Turned out to be a bad one, brand new, go figure. Grounding also super important specially with all those splices he has going on under the fuse box, who knows how good those connections are as well as the grounds.
I didnt think of this but a guy on yt suggests using a relay for 12 switched power because of voltage drop causing an over charge issue. You just wire a relay to act as your switched power so it has a good reading for voltage. His voltage was only around 16 volts not 18. A quick check to see if that works would be hooking the switched ignition straight to the battery, if that doesnt lower the voltage then neither would a relay. I would rule the batteries out by starting it and swapping in a known good battery, i honestly think its an issue with the alternator because 18 volts is so high.
I'd be checking it with a volt meter. My 05 sits maxed out all the time according to the gauge but makes 14.2 consistently with a volt meter. Found that out the hard way. Good luck. 👍
Check to make sure the crossover wire is clean and grounded properly, the alternator will send power to the passenger side battery but power will build up because it can’t send it to the driver side battery correctly
I am in same boat with my 12 valve. 5 regulators nothing. New wires. Same deal. Also has a good Surge at idle. Always has had it. Though. From the voltage regulator as we swapped the Cummins in the k3500 some 20 years ago AND NEVER EVER HAD A ISSUE TILL NOW. JUST ONE DAY ITS HERE AND I SPENT PLENTY HRS ON IT SO FAR.
New Alternator bud….. over charging is 90 % alternator issues. It’s internal the factory computer stops the battery from charging when the alternator is overcharging, that’s why you have too bypass for it too charge!
For real though. You need these challenges to keep you sharp though. If everything was easy you'd never make progress. She runs good now but damn was it a fight!
Could it be a bad crossover cable? It fits the symptoms. If the regulator is looking at drivers battery and alternator is charging passenger battery. If the Regulator doesn't see the expected voltage on drivers battery, it' going to over volt passenger battery. What is the voltage difference between the batteries through the crossover cabler when the truck is off?
Get a nice pin remover set and a variety of different pins and you won’t have to use them butt connectors, best thing I’ve did however you need to charge because some of the connectors are expensive especially depending which type, also did you take the tipm out and check the plugs on the bottom to see if something stupid was going on there I know the regulator is through the pcm but you know how they are
I seen you had the dvm. Was that where you was reading 18 volt. The guage will never read correct with the external regulator. I have done many of these conversions on second generation and guage always reads between 15 and 18 volts. With the dvm it's always 15 or under.
I used both multimeters to verify but the voltage gauge on these trucks are very accurate when they're actually hooked up. Anytime I'd check and verify though it would always be with the multimeter. The goal is around 14.5 volts. 15 volts is the absolute max a 3rd gen should be charging at. That's what my last 3 have charged at from the factory. Voltage regulator is about 14.3 is calibrated correctly.
It's been said over and over but I had a issue with my chevy truck put a new alternator on it worked great then one day it shot up to 17.8 volts and the alternator went with in a month. Not sure where he got the alternator but if the batteries are good I'd get the alternator under warranty and go from there.
I would get the old nater just double-check to make sure I know it should have an internal regulator bill in and if it's bad it could be sending out too much current another thing is too I don't know I was told that you can get a one wire alternator for these you just got to change the pulley to make them work I don't know if you can or not you might look into that that might be an option
I think you messed up right from the beginning, when you put the fuse power to the alternator, it goes to the regulator only, then the regulator output its power to the alternator.
You are incorrect. These are powered by a key on fused power source. How do I know? Because I got it working today using fuse power. It needs to see a 12 Volt source that turns off with the key. She runs good now. We installed an alternator with an internal regulator. Charges at 14.4 volts
You shouldn't hit battery post I used to do it to get them down but had it screw a new battery since it's soft metal it breaks internally and batterys are crazy expensive sometimes I just use a flathead and twist the connector open but if you buy proper connectors they are tapered one way so you can usually just flip them over and they fit like new
I would recheck the alternator. Like many have said already, NEW doesn’t mean GOOD. Kind of sounds like a bad Nator. Unless it was overcharging before the new Nator went it. And what’s the truck reading with a meter? Is the volt gauge bad?! If it’s reading 18 plus volts on a voltmeter then I got nothing. Lol
This one definitely makes ya think. I did some digging and found Paperformance sells an internally regulated alternator for the guys that swap 6.7s into other trucks. We installed it, put it to key on fused power and it charged perfectly at 14.4 volts. No pcm or wire harness replacement needed!
You don't show the wiring diagram of the voltage regulator, which could be helpful in troubleshooting. My thoughts are your wiring harness sends 12VDC (from fuse box/TIPM) directly back to the alternator excitation circuit, which it too high, causing your output of the alternator to be high. The Voltage regulator should be the only one seeing TIPM voltage and then the VR will adjust output exciter voltage to alternator. So it may be that you are exciting the alternator with voltage not being regulated at all. Just a thought.
I've wired in a lot of these, and you can see the diagram online. Middle wire on the regulator goes to a field terminal on the alternator(and to a 12 Volt key on source), and the green wire on the regulator goes to the other field terminal. I ran the same thing on my 12 valve swapped truck and on quite a few customer trucks. I agree that if you switch the wires, it's exciting the alternator with no regulator, but if the wires are switched the other way, there's no output. That's where it's getting weird. Definitely feel like there could be an issue with this alternator even if it is new..
I think it could be a bad alternator. Something internally is causing the alternator to overcharge. I’ve had this exact thing happen before. Took me 3 weeks to figure it out. But, I’ve also had it where a bad PCM screwed up all kinds of electrical stuff. I heard you say it needs a new PCM, and that could be part of the root cause. Either way, great work man. I hope you get it figured out soon.
As of every truck I install these on I pull the pcm out of the equation. I've never had one fight me like this. I really want to get it working for the guy and not have him spend an arm and a leg. Someone botched the factory harness so even if we throw a pcm in it it still may not even fix the issue.
Cross over battery cable is usually the culprit, if it’s not that then check for acid/corrosion damage to the battery trays (there’s a temp sensor under them which can malfunction and tell the computer to throw extra volts out…yes….yes I know that sounds stupid..but I’m speaking from experience)
I've got that same experience on the crossover cable. One bad connection and you get a blown up passenger side battery 😂 I actually cleaned all the connections and I'm actually getting 18 volts on the driver's side battery. If it's the crossover it would do 18 on one side and no charge on the other. I actually had a battery blow up on my original 06 about 7 years ago on my way to work. What a trip that was
@@CPSteveMiller well I agree that if you’re getting 18 v on both batteries then it’s most likely another issue…all things considered it’s either the temp switch under the driver side battery tray, bad pcm or the alternator could be shit…I went through two alternators before the parts house actually gave me a good one on my 01…unfortunately after Covid I’ve been getting more and more “new” parts that were crap right out of the box…and having friends who’ve worked at parts stores in the past they’ve told me that many of the defective parts find their way back on the shelf even though the need to be shipped back to the suppliers
Sounds to me like the fields in the alternator are shorted to ground, if you hook it up the right way, ground goes right back to ground, and it won't give any output, but when reversed, you are sending power through what should be grounded causing the magnetic field to activate and just not be able to be controlled due to the short. If it were my vehicle, i would find a factory alternator in a junkyard and run it with your external regulator setup.
It makes sense. I actually tested the field terminals with the multimeter and got 12 volts one way and when reversed I got -12 the other way. Hoping it's as simple as a defective alternator because I have never had a voltage regulator not work on this same setup..
@@CPSteveMiller Yeah, in today's world, it seems like New means Never Ever Works, just put a new blower motor in my 04 Cadillac Deville, it worked for 17 days. I tore my old one apart, resurfaced the commutator, took carbon brushes from an old vacuum motor and filed them to fit, and now that motor runs better than it did when I bought the car in 2005. I guess different compounds of different carbon brushes make a big difference!
You should’ve just a taken a red wire from the battery and a ground from the battery to the alternator and see if the volt gas was correct. Your way you where added power that’s why the gauge was up to eighteen than go from there
Could be a bad battery or a bad alternator, or it could be that bad post that's all chew up on that one battery, it could be anything after the first owner did a hack job on it, maybe a broken wire.
I bet if you got a 4 pin relay.. Put pin 85 to ground... Pin 30 to the battery.... Pin 87 to ignition... And pin 86 tied into the blue wire from the regulator. (This would cut out the ignition direct to the blue regulator wire). Problem would most likely be solved.
This So called new alternators are not built like they used too be. I've got bad New ones before. Hope You get it figured out. Electrical can drive a man Crazy for sure....Good Luck Bud...
Yes, but even still the factory gauge in the dash is very accurate. I have two multimeters on board and anything my meter read, the gauge read the exact same.
My sonilaw had one doing same thing it was in his lite bar i dont know why but he disconnected it Then everything went normal He said what ? Dont know why it just did Id ask him but hes dead so
No modern alternator has an integrated regulator. IT IS IN THE PCM. All modern vehicles use the pcm as a voltage regulator. When you buy a new alternator it will even tell you "This unit is EXTERNALLY regulated by the vehicles computer"
Put a one wire alternator on it . Those regulators from the 70s are junk. I exploded a battery . Went to hell very undependable. Absolute junk regulators
I cleaned every single ground on the truck, brand new wiring, brand new batteries, grounded the alternator, grounded the regulator, etc. It's not a wiring problem at this point
@@CPSteveMiller Grounds loose connection in more ways than between the bolt and the block or body. They also loose connection between the terminal and wire.
Hi bro whatcha up to hope all is well prayers 4 healing and unspoken also prayers 4 everyone and bless great healthy peaceful safe journeys travels and happy day everyday in the name of the Creator God and Yeshua/Jesus and the Holy Ghost Amen much honor and respect keep walking tall and try replacing and chkn the alternator change it out maybe fualty alternator any who keep walking tall and keep praying and keep on keeping on cool cool tow truck yes that would be nice addition to yall's shop many blessings 🚌🌅🌌⛺🌄🏞🏖 👍👍💪🙂👍👍
Was searching for info on a Dodge waste gate issue I was working on and found your channel. Cool videos. In this case if I was sure the driver in the pcm was fried I would find a used or salvage pcm and program it and be done with it. Transistor drivers don't just fry by themselves though, always a root problem. Interested to see what was causing the symptom. I work mostly on Ford super dutys and with the twin alternator equipped models it can get complicated.
I bought a new alternator that did the same thing. Turned out to be a bad one, brand new, go figure. Grounding also super important specially with all those splices he has going on under the fuse box, who knows how good those connections are as well as the grounds.
Just because they are new doesn’t mean they are good. I put a new alternator in my truck and it ended up being bad
Did you have the actual alt tested? I would have went there immediately after all your usuals didn't work
I didnt think of this but a guy on yt suggests using a relay for 12 switched power because of voltage drop causing an over charge issue. You just wire a relay to act as your switched power so it has a good reading for voltage. His voltage was only around 16 volts not 18. A quick check to see if that works would be hooking the switched ignition straight to the battery, if that doesnt lower the voltage then neither would a relay. I would rule the batteries out by starting it and swapping in a known good battery, i honestly think its an issue with the alternator because 18 volts is so high.
I'd be checking it with a volt meter. My 05 sits maxed out all the time according to the gauge but makes 14.2 consistently with a volt meter. Found that out the hard way. Good luck. 👍
I used 2 multimeters. I don't mess around 😅
Thanks for the great mechanical content. I like how you're building a harness and using the wireloom. Details count. Screw the haters!
That wrecker is killer. Love to own that 👍💪🏻
It's on marketplace for 16.5k. Baltimore Maryland
I’m from there myself out of edgemere myself
Check to make sure the crossover wire is clean and grounded properly, the alternator will send power to the passenger side battery but power will build up because it can’t send it to the driver side battery correctly
I am in same boat with my 12 valve. 5 regulators nothing. New wires. Same deal. Also has a good Surge at idle. Always has had it. Though. From the voltage regulator as we swapped the Cummins in the k3500 some 20 years ago AND NEVER EVER HAD A ISSUE TILL NOW. JUST ONE DAY ITS HERE AND I SPENT PLENTY HRS ON IT SO FAR.
New Alternator bud….. over charging is 90 % alternator issues. It’s internal the factory computer stops the battery from charging when the alternator is overcharging, that’s why you have too bypass for it too charge!
Just when you thought u knew everything about the truck but this one kick your ass.
For real though. You need these challenges to keep you sharp though. If everything was easy you'd never make progress. She runs good now but damn was it a fight!
Could it be a bad crossover cable? It fits the symptoms. If the regulator is looking at drivers battery and alternator is charging passenger battery. If the Regulator doesn't see the expected voltage on drivers battery, it' going to over volt passenger battery. What is the voltage difference between the batteries through the crossover cabler when the truck is off?
Get a nice pin remover set and a variety of different pins and you won’t have to use them butt connectors, best thing I’ve did however you need to charge because some of the connectors are expensive especially depending which type, also did you take the tipm out and check the plugs on the bottom to see if something stupid was going on there I know the regulator is through the pcm but you know how they are
Steve your videos are amazing. God bless you
I seen you had the dvm. Was that where you was reading 18 volt. The guage will never read correct with the external regulator. I have done many of these conversions on second generation and guage always reads between 15 and 18 volts. With the dvm it's always 15 or under.
I used both multimeters to verify but the voltage gauge on these trucks are very accurate when they're actually hooked up. Anytime I'd check and verify though it would always be with the multimeter. The goal is around 14.5 volts. 15 volts is the absolute max a 3rd gen should be charging at. That's what my last 3 have charged at from the factory. Voltage regulator is about 14.3 is calibrated correctly.
Short to ground...inside alternator or at firewall bulkhead main harness connection.
That butchered fuse box is a fire waiting to happen.
Steve does the alternator have a built in voltage regulator? The contacts might be burnt and causing some weird crap
It's in the pcm on these. That's why I put the external one because a pcm is 2300 bucks
I would check the voltage gage on the truck also.
It matches both of my multimeters.
Us old guys can't watch stuff where the camera is swinging around like it's strapped to a chimp. But good luck with it.
Try another alternator sometimes there is a problem with the voltage regulator in them
Commenting for support
Brush ring to windings shorting internally, and worn or stuck brushes, can increase voltage.
Good video Steve
Come help me with my tow truck….I’m in maryland.
It's been said over and over but I had a issue with my chevy truck put a new alternator on it worked great then one day it shot up to 17.8 volts and the alternator went with in a month. Not sure where he got the alternator but if the batteries are good I'd get the alternator under warranty and go from there.
Was actually the day after I got the alcoa wheels from u it happened
I added a relay to mine and it fixed that over charge issue
I would get the old nater just double-check to make sure I know it should have an internal regulator bill in and if it's bad it could be sending out too much current another thing is too I don't know I was told that you can get a one wire alternator for these you just got to change the pulley to make them work I don't know if you can or not you might look into that that might be an option
Is that a 5v source or 12v source to excite the alternator
12 volt
Could it be the chassis ground?
I wondering if the pcm may be disrruprupting the circuit
It isn’t a part of the circuit it’s not possible.
I even isolated the whole circuit and took the pcm out of the equation.
It all looks good
What tune are you running on your trucks
On my 06 it's just a tow tune from Edge. Nothing special.
Could the alta ator could be defective
Maybe where you plugged the fuse in where you said it was kinda messed up with all of those butt connectors there might be the problem in there
I tried going off of the battery as well and it still shoots up to 18. Going to try a new alternator when I get down there.
I think you messed up right from the beginning, when you put the fuse power to the alternator, it goes to the regulator only, then the regulator output its power to the alternator.
You are incorrect. These are powered by a key on fused power source.
How do I know? Because I got it working today using fuse power. It needs to see a 12 Volt source that turns off with the key.
She runs good now. We installed an alternator with an internal regulator. Charges at 14.4 volts
You shouldn't hit battery post I used to do it to get them down but had it screw a new battery since it's soft metal it breaks internally and batterys are crazy expensive sometimes I just use a flathead and twist the connector open but if you buy proper connectors they are tapered one way so you can usually just flip them over and they fit like new
I need the turbo sitting on the floor
I would recheck the alternator. Like many have said already, NEW doesn’t mean GOOD. Kind of sounds like a bad Nator. Unless it was overcharging before the new Nator went it. And what’s the truck reading with a meter? Is the volt gauge bad?! If it’s reading 18 plus volts on a voltmeter then I got nothing. Lol
This one definitely makes ya think. I did some digging and found Paperformance sells an internally regulated alternator for the guys that swap 6.7s into other trucks. We installed it, put it to key on fused power and it charged perfectly at 14.4 volts. No pcm or wire harness replacement needed!
My 7.3 over charged at 18 with a new alternator, I got another new alternator and fixed the problem
You have to check the relay on the charge wire on the passenger side
I did
Econo power batteries are the cheapest interstate batteries you can buy they have been remaned would definitely make sure the batteries are good
disconnect the batteries and test voltage on each one maybe a battery is bad
You don't show the wiring diagram of the voltage regulator, which could be helpful in troubleshooting. My thoughts are your wiring harness sends 12VDC (from fuse box/TIPM) directly back to the alternator excitation circuit, which it too high, causing your output of the alternator to be high. The Voltage regulator should be the only one seeing TIPM voltage and then the VR will adjust output exciter voltage to alternator. So it may be that you are exciting the alternator with voltage not being regulated at all. Just a thought.
I've wired in a lot of these, and you can see the diagram online. Middle wire on the regulator goes to a field terminal on the alternator(and to a 12 Volt key on source), and the green wire on the regulator goes to the other field terminal.
I ran the same thing on my 12 valve swapped truck and on quite a few customer trucks.
I agree that if you switch the wires, it's exciting the alternator with no regulator, but if the wires are switched the other way, there's no output. That's where it's getting weird. Definitely feel like there could be an issue with this alternator even if it is new..
Have y’all tried to find a high output alternator?
Just did today. Still nothing
@@CPSteveMiller what kind of alternator?
I think it could be a bad alternator. Something internally is causing the alternator to overcharge. I’ve had this exact thing happen before. Took me 3 weeks to figure it out. But, I’ve also had it where a bad PCM screwed up all kinds of electrical stuff. I heard you say it needs a new PCM, and that could be part of the root cause. Either way, great work man. I hope you get it figured out soon.
As of every truck I install these on I pull the pcm out of the equation. I've never had one fight me like this. I really want to get it working for the guy and not have him spend an arm and a leg. Someone botched the factory harness so even if we throw a pcm in it it still may not even fix the issue.
@@CPSteveMiller Check Your Voltage Regulator and make sure You don't have a bad one.
@@CPSteveMiller Pull the alternator and get it tested, the alt could be screwed up.
We tried 3 regulators. 2 were new, one was already on the truck😬
Cross over battery cable is usually the culprit, if it’s not that then check for acid/corrosion damage to the battery trays (there’s a temp sensor under them which can malfunction and tell the computer to throw extra volts out…yes….yes I know that sounds stupid..but I’m speaking from experience)
I've got that same experience on the crossover cable. One bad connection and you get a blown up passenger side battery 😂 I actually cleaned all the connections and I'm actually getting 18 volts on the driver's side battery. If it's the crossover it would do 18 on one side and no charge on the other.
I actually had a battery blow up on my original 06 about 7 years ago on my way to work. What a trip that was
@@CPSteveMiller well I agree that if you’re getting 18 v on both batteries then it’s most likely another issue…all things considered it’s either the temp switch under the driver side battery tray, bad pcm or the alternator could be shit…I went through two alternators before the parts house actually gave me a good one on my 01…unfortunately after Covid I’ve been getting more and more “new” parts that were crap right out of the box…and having friends who’ve worked at parts stores in the past they’ve told me that many of the defective parts find their way back on the shelf even though the need to be shipped back to the suppliers
It’s about time lol 🤟🔥 hope all is well!!!
Sounds to me like the fields in the alternator are shorted to ground, if you hook it up the right way, ground goes right back to ground, and it won't give any output, but when reversed, you are sending power through what should be grounded causing the magnetic field to activate and just not be able to be controlled due to the short. If it were my vehicle, i would find a factory alternator in a junkyard and run it with your external regulator setup.
It makes sense. I actually tested the field terminals with the multimeter and got 12 volts one way and when reversed I got -12 the other way. Hoping it's as simple as a defective alternator because I have never had a voltage regulator not work on this same setup..
@@CPSteveMiller Yeah, in today's world, it seems like New means Never Ever Works, just put a new blower motor in my 04 Cadillac Deville, it worked for 17 days. I tore my old one apart, resurfaced the commutator, took carbon brushes from an old vacuum motor and filed them to fit, and now that motor runs better than it did when I bought the car in 2005. I guess different compounds of different carbon brushes make a big difference!
Hey bud that fifth wheel adapter sure looks familiar (lol). Hope all had been going good.
Put a adjustable regulator on it cp I did it to mine
Is the dash vm correct?
Yeah. We got it going perfectly today though
You should’ve just a taken a red wire from the battery and a ground from the battery to the alternator and see if the volt gas was correct. Your way you where added power that’s why the gauge was up to eighteen than go from there
This is an externally regulated alternator. You cannot put power and ground to it or it will charge at 18 volts...
I think you should check the gage.
I checked it with 2 different multimeters
@@CPSteveMiller You have 2 choices check the rectifier in the alternator or change the alternator.
Did that too
Could be a bad battery or a bad alternator, or it could be that bad post that's all chew up on that one battery, it could be anything after the first owner did a hack job on it, maybe a broken wire.
I bet if you got a 4 pin relay.. Put pin 85 to ground... Pin 30 to the battery.... Pin 87 to ignition... And pin 86 tied into the blue wire from the regulator. (This would cut out the ignition direct to the blue regulator wire). Problem would most likely be solved.
I tried a few variations. Nothing worked
This So called new alternators are not built like they used too be. I've got bad New ones before. Hope You get it figured out. Electrical can drive a man Crazy for sure....Good Luck Bud...
Maybe a defective alternator
I'd replace the alternator it self more than likely there's internal issues with it
I tried a brand new 220 amp alternator 😬
Hey man what happened with the whole 2G situation?
I'll make an update if there ever is one
I've had a bunch of brand new out of box parts that were junk
What part of md
Baltimore
How much for the 12v truck?
Send me an email
Steve@cpstevemiller.com
You did check your voltage with your meter and not just going by the dash gauge right? We all know how many problems those dashes have lol
Yes, but even still the factory gauge in the dash is very accurate. I have two multimeters on board and anything my meter read, the gauge read the exact same.
My sonilaw had one doing same thing it was in his lite bar i dont know why but he disconnected it
Then everything went normal
He said what ? Dont know why it just did
Id ask him but hes dead so
Selling them wheel sims?
Sounds like 4 shop's couldn't fix it. 😂
I ain't giving up on it yet. I'm going back Saturday. I wanted to be back down Tuesday but things got pushed back.
Maybe ur gauge is messed up or alternator is defective
I verified with 2 separate multimeters each time + the gauge
Way to go Steve.
Pretty shure those altternators are internally regulated
They are not
@@CPSteveMiller pretty shur all modern alternators have an intergtated voltage regulator
No modern alternator has an integrated regulator.
IT IS IN THE PCM. All modern vehicles use the pcm as a voltage regulator.
When you buy a new alternator it will even tell you
"This unit is EXTERNALLY regulated by the vehicles computer"
Sounds like it might be the alternator
We tried a new one. Ended up throwing a 1 wire alternator on it from paperformance. Runs great now!
First to say first. Maybe not first comment tho 🤷🏻♂️
Just cuz it’s new doesn’t mean it’s good I would do regulator battery’s and alternator
We tried
When the internals fail they tend to full field
I tried a new alternator too 🫣
@@CPSteveMiller that alternator may need a pulse with signal? Like a 0-5v square wave
Just saw her on marketplace haha
I thought alternators had regulator in them
Dodge has them in the pcm, which we are bypassing.
My be the alternator is a high output alternator lol
Sounds like a bas alternator
I’d say bad alternator or bad crossover wire
Put a one wire alternator on it . Those regulators from the 70s are junk. I exploded a battery . Went to hell very undependable. Absolute junk regulators
They are literally used on every chrysler in the old days and whatever else they was on... they work great you've just had bad luck lol.
I've used quite a few without issues
@@dawarmonky2122junk!!
Wassup
Thank you , and never ever vote todays Democrat!
New muffler
Ground
I cleaned every single ground on the truck, brand new wiring, brand new batteries, grounded the alternator, grounded the regulator, etc. It's not a wiring problem at this point
You from Maine?
@@CPSteveMiller Grounds loose connection in more ways than between the bolt and the block or body. They also loose connection between the terminal and wire.
@@CPSteveMiller I said this before watching the video. It might not be a ground it might just be a bad alt.
Hi bro whatcha up to hope all is well prayers 4 healing and unspoken also prayers 4 everyone and bless great healthy peaceful safe journeys travels and happy day everyday in the name of the Creator God and Yeshua/Jesus and the Holy Ghost Amen much honor and respect keep walking tall and try replacing and chkn the alternator change it out maybe fualty alternator any who keep walking tall and keep praying and keep on keeping on cool cool tow truck yes that would be nice addition to yall's shop many blessings
🚌🌅🌌⛺🌄🏞🏖
👍👍💪🙂👍👍
$500 for the camper
Come get it 😂 I no longer need it for storage
Bad gauge
Anybody saying bad gauge did not watch the video 🤦♂️ You are wrong.
Its a dodge theres no fixn it... not even the Cummings in them is worth anything anymore
Bad rectifier in alternator
I wish, but no.