Micro Mechanica | 3D Printing the smallest possible mechanical model [Experiment]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- #3Dprinting #Tourbillon
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Mini Mechanica STL File: bit.ly/3quSvnq
Assembly Guide (BOM List) : bit.ly/3U56ZrE
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I would love to see this line of work evolve into a 3D printed wristwatch. Can't wait for the next episode!
You probably could get it small enough with a resin printer and some optimisations
an FDM printed wristwatch would be amazing to see
(resin sort of feels like cheating) (also I don't have a resin printer)
@@Yrocsrelles I think sls would be a better technology for this actually.
could be possible now with arachne
Lol not fdm . Fdm is not optimal for this scenario thats why this is scaled up
You make the size variations look so incredibly easy. I would love to know more about your process and the challenges of it.
I'm already very excited to see how small you can go!
love what you do
Thanks, but It's actually not as easy as it looks, especially for the 50% and 35% versions. I spent quite some time fine-tuning the escape fork profile to get it working consistently. I also encountered a pretty unique challenge for the 35% model.
The extremely lightweight fork was actually influenced by electrostatic forces from the escape wheel fingers (I assume it's generated by the interaction between the wheel and fork). That causes the fork to be repelled from the wheel finger like a magnet, causing frequent jams.
It was solved by fine-tuning the clearances to near zero as much as possible, but I foresee this issue becoming more prevalent as I try to go smaller. Grounding those charges is probably the best solution, but I'll see how it goes 😂
@@mechanistic3d That is fascinating to hear, thank you.
Since static electricity is created through friction, you might want to look into reducing friction in smaller versions, for example by using a different, less conductive, material for the metal rods.
sorry for being a smartass, that problem just got me hooked immediately
@@mechanistic3d The part’s are always loaded when they came fresh from the bed. There is also ESD filament outhere, would be interesting how this compares for the part.
@@lazyman1011 that’s a cool suggestion. I did a quick Google search and found out that there are some variants of ABS with good ESD dissipative properties, worthy of a try. Thanks 🙂
@@mechanistic3d Also keep in mind that fresh printed parts are always loaded strong. Maybe you also used them directly after print?
Beautiful works of art and great to see that they even work at this tiny scale.
First comment! I agree but I wonder, does there exist a 0.05mm nozzle? Could we print a mechanica at 20% scale? 15%?
@@elvinshoolbraid84 You know our man Stefan can make a .05 nozzle
@@elvinshoolbraid84 There's a company in Japan that made a ruby nozzle a decade ago that had IIRC a .01 or .005 bore for a New York university medical lab doing research on bioprinting, but I was never able to find any Western distribution info for even their larger nozzles.
Then again, once ruby tipped nozzles became mainstream, there were an awful lot of them that came unset under pressure even at .4, so...
There are micro drill bits that get down to .05 and a little smaller but they're really fragile and a bit expensive. Some hypodermic needles come that small too but they're hard to source or justify individually.
The most reliable way to machine a bore that small might just be wire EDM or similar, but this luck finding info on how to center bore something with that, much less getting the equipment and getting it done.
Plus at those bores, you're definitely going to want to use a narrower diameter of filament to start with or else the backfeed pressure will be considerably cumbersome
Actually, thinking back, I remember seeing a .05 nozzle at Micro Center once - Micro Swiss brand, I think. Wish I had bought it. Can't even find their .1s and .15s here anymore.
Bless you, this is exactly what I needed to see! I've been trying to design and print a miniature reversible ratchet mechanism for a screwdriver handle, and trying to work around the limited resolution afforded by my 0.4mm nozzle has been maddening. If I can step down even to 0.2, I think that will make a world of difference!
Absolutely love the design and functionality of these mechanisms. As an engineering student involved with a lot of 3D printing around campus it is really inspiring to watch their creation. A teaser of the design process behind, would be 🔥🔥🔥 Continue the amazing work, both the design and the cinematics
this channel is the reason why I want to buy a 3D printer
Got one 5 years ago. Best purchase ever. But they all demand a degree of frustration tolerance and I mean if you know CAD, that's great, else you've got another headache...
would love to see a resin printed version at 0.1 scale or something crazy!
I was thinking the same
in another follow up it would be interesting to see a resin print with some mix of flexible and abs like resins. beyond determining the material, printing would be a tad tough as you'd want it to be on the print bed but have to compensate for elephants foot for the burn in layers
YES! I'm glad you're already planning the .1 nozzle that's what I was going to ask for
bro...
have you seen the latest prusaslicer update? if not let me fill you in...
the big update was them adding a new slicing engine called arachne...
arachne allows flow control for the nozzle for extrusion widths less than the diameter of the nozzle...
you could prolly go a lot smaller with this new engine, but it would be borderline impossible to assemble.
i love your models and videos. keep up the good work👌👍
you sir, are the king of 3D printing, in my humble opinion! nice work!!!
Thanks for showing impressing work with using kaika nozzle!
This is incredible work and absolutely fascinating to watch! I always thought the tourbillion movement is so interesting to observe.
I love how he did that "take this banana as a refference" to a whole new level
Would love to try fit this in one of my 3d printed watches!
Would love to see you try your hand at a marine chronometer, or at least something which could demonstrate it's principles...
eagerly waiting for further followup to this project
what a great video and your print qualities are amazing
Omg this was really impressive! Thanks for the video! 🤗
Whoa. Quite an impressive level of detail. Consumer grade 3D printers have surely come a long way.
I wonder what kind of miniaturization can be achieved with resin printers. From what I heard resin prints are more brittle than extruded plastic ones, which could be a problem. Then again, there are specialized resins for printing now that have different properties, so maybe it's doable.
Yeah, I am seriously interested in trying out resin printers. However, based on my limited knowledge, FDM printers should have better-suited materials for mechanical-related models even compared to some specialized engineering tough resin.
Nevertheless, I'm still very intrigued by the miniaturization possibilities with resin printing, and I'll probably pick one up after exploring the limits of FDM.
@@mechanistic3d If I can offer you a word of advice based on my own experience with a resin printer (Longer Orange 10), it's that I'd recommend getting the highest-resolution and highest-contrast model you can, if your goal is really to push the limits of miniaturization. My cheapo Orange 10 already blew most FDM printers out of the water, but because of the contrast and resolution of the screen, there was a touch of visible pixelation, and more importantly, I found a few of the finer features frequently fused, frustratingly. Pardon the string of F-words.
@@hollt693 Thanks! given that I have zero experience with resin printers, I appreciate your word of advice, and It'll definitely help narrow down the choice of models (i guess 6k/8k should be the way to go).
@@mechanistic3d It sounds like the two top-of-the-line printers in that regard are the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k and the Anycubic Photon D2 DLP printer. The latter doesn't sound like it has comparable specs on paper, but that's apparently because it uses a different technology for exposure. VOG has a good video on it: th-cam.com/video/Q-OoGQfG2wY/w-d-xo.html
That said, I have zero firsthand experience with either of those, and for all I know, the difference between 4k and 8k/DLP may be insignificant. I wouldn't want you to waste money on a gimmick (like 8k TVs), but it would be a bigger waste to try to save $100-200 only to find out that the printer you bought is insufficient, right? With resin printers, you normally can't upgrade just the screen to a higher resolution, so you're generally stuck with what you've got.
I trust you'll do your own research and find what's right for you, but I know that coming from FDM, even figuring out what specs to look for in a resin printer can be difficult. I wish you the best of luck, and I look forward to seeing what you're able to do with resin printing!
@@hollt693 Yeah this are the best in my eyes also. But first think about your health and stay with FDM. I also thought switching to resin but if you really dive into the specs and risks of that stuff including the environmental impact, it doesn’t make fun anymore.
Only my 2 cents, not blaming others.
I have thought about doing this for a while..... Well done,
That is just mesmerizing
What is the running time per each downsized version compared to the original? you mention less energy is required, but no mention of the run on a charge :)
Sorry I was not too clear in the video. The runtime for each scaled model is almost identical since the mainspring and gear ratio is maintained. I meant that a smaller escapement allows for a more aggressive mainspring to escape wheel gear reduction (due to less energy consumption), hence allowing for longer runtime in a system.
For example, If I were to half the scale of escapement in Tourbillon Mechanica while maintaining the dimensions of the mainspring barrel, I could potentially increase the gear reduction by 3-4 folds to proportionally increase its runtime. Hope this helps to clarify :)
Dude you should totally sell these, this would make an awesome fidget toy❤
Wow! ... I'm still struggling scaling down another of your projects on resin printing. Elefant foot optimization when printing on build plate is a real issue and printing on supports has other disadvantages for many of the parts. Also, at smaller scale, the surface roughness (it is 3d pixels / voxels) is a big issue. Especially for fork / fork wheel ...
Elephants' foot is definitely a pain for mechanical models. I'm not sure about resin printing, but for FDM, I always set a skirt with a large offset from the model so that I can feel the layer height with my hand to live adjust z offset to achieve a good first layer.
Adding chamfers to the bottom surface of gears also helps to reduce elephants' foot. I like to use a 30deg chamfer and couple it with the slicer's elephant foot compensation feature.
I have no experience with resin printing, so it's interesting to learn about the surface roughness issue. I wonder if DLP printers will help improve surface roughness at tiny scales.
Enjoy - blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/02/a-step-by-step-guide-for-the-perfect-bed-adhesion-and-removing-elephant-foot-on-a-resin-3d-printer/
I love your prints
The Mechanica is my favorite 3D printed model. Amazing work! Do you have any plans to release part modifications you made for the smaller scales?
Yes, it’s actually already updated to be included with the original Mini Mechanica. You just need to re-download the file package and the assembly guide, BOM list and print settings are also updated accordingly 😁
@@mechanistic3d Thanks!!!
Cool to see the thing speed up with lower scale. Guess the square-cubed law gave it a relatively stiffer spring.
[Drops one of these in a public place to scare people]
What model of 3d printer do you have?
the result depend on the quality of the 3d printer or have a small nozle is enough?
thank you, nice video!
Just assembled the 50% scale model. Had a blast and was able to print everything with a 0.25mm nozzle.
That's pretty nuts!!!
I would love to see a video or series on how you tune your printer and settings. I am sure that you use a systematic and quantitative aproach... i doubt your mind would let you work any other way...
I'd like to see what you could do with a 4K resolution resin printer!
.025 mm resolution. Many interesting materials are available. I once printed a 5 mm tall little man with 0.05 mm resolution.
Same here. I'll start exploring resin printing once I've hit the limits of FDM miniaturisation. Handling resin won't be fun, but it'll be worth it if I can get to 20% scale that works reliably.
Why do I feel like you are becoming a watchmaker...
The Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K has 22 micron xy resolution a layer heights at as low as 5-10 microns, with plastics harder and tougher than anything I've printed in years of FDM/FFF and I've used all the hardest plastics with nozzles as wide as .8mm as as small as 0.1mm.. MSLA printing has a tricky (and financially unforgiving) learning curve but the results are near magical, I've shown various models I've printed to mechanical engineers running machine shops and they've bought them that day (I'm not sponsored, i just have two on them and will soon get various more lol)
Thanks for the recommendation! It's definitely at the top of my list, along with the Anycubic D2. I'm still reading up more about DLP printers, trying to find a direct comparison before making a decision. Do you have any recommended resin material with high stiffness and low creep properties?
First of all, super impressive printer from prusa and amazing designwork by you. And secondly, I sent you a bunch of mails with updates on my grand piano, and it does'nt look like you read any. Anyhow, I take this as you want to see the full build "fully built" and not small updates if that makes sense. Happy printing :D
Hey Filippus!, Thanks, and I'm truly sorry about my absence from email replies. I went on a hiatus about 3-4 months back due to several reasons, mainly family-related. As a result, I've been behind on emails. I have to admit that I still have poor time management for juggling design, content creation, store management, emails, social media, and family.
I will definitely read your emails once the current project is launched, and I'd love to see the progressive updates, especially the challenges and stories behind every progress. Thanks again for actively updating, and I feel terrible for not replying sooner.
@@mechanistic3d No worries 😉, take all the time you need with family and that. I’ll keep you updated with my stuff mainly thru instagram.
Well done, I look forward to further content. 👍👍
Do you think you could make a self winding tourbillon
Holy that song I haven't heard it since 2016
I’m curious to see how long does the small one last compare to the larger one, do you have any data?
This is one of the upsides to 3d printing, new uses for old and cumbersome clockwork devices. Sure an Arduino and a lipo could do the same job, but in a different way with less show along with higher consumption of resources. This uses nothing more than physics and potential energy. I love this like I love my 150 year old grandfather clock.
Next step: resin!
Excellent!!
This is impressive, as all your work.
So I was wondering, If you applied a reducction to your 3 axis tourbillion clock could you make it run for more than 90 minutes ?
Man, was that hairspring regular PETG? I'm printing the 75% scale version and I get a half turn of the dial at most, going much slower.
It is so baby!
Could a 3D printed pocket watch be in the future ?
The true test of an inventor is to remake your creations even smaller.
try printing one in resin at the size of a watch face
This is simply amazing.
But considering the hours necessary to print this, A resin printer could print all parts in just an hour or 2 at 0.03mm layer height, not very practical ?
But which 3D printer is best for these types of miniature printing
This should have been on Tick-Tock
Nice work. The aeria mechanica looks like the latest « Freak » from Ulysse Nardin though.
Thanks! It was indeed inspired by Ulysee Nardin Freak S (partly), but my first inspiration came from the quinjet from the winter soldier movie. The scene of cap vs. the quinjet shows turbine engines are located at the wings, and I thought it would be cool to have the Tourbillons represent those turbine engines. Then, a little while later, I came across the freak S, which really etched the whole idea into my head. I also wanted to create a heli carrier kinda model with quad tourbillons, but that might be too complicated. 😂
Does your parts bow when cooling down? I currently do not own a 3d printer but use Prusa printer at my Uni shared maker lab. I tried to do a similar project but there seems to be always a slight warping once the object cools down to normal temp. Multiple parts do not fit perfectly as a result due to 0.5-1mm misalignment. Always requires sanding. Even tried using the wall method to stop draft air but no use. Forget about the smaller objects like how you made in this video. They have too many tolerances issue. Can you please suggest a solution?
Would have been more interesting if you kept the larger coiled spring and made everything else tiny.. this way it would last much longer..
is it possible for you to make a screwless model
Resin!
How are print times reduced ? This should not be the case, this means you were printing with too small of a nozzle or layer heigth + width when printing 100% scale.
last time i handled tin snips i nearly took my finger-tip off, i'd love to buy a per-prepared set so i could just assemble it XD, i am the worst handyman on earth i swear, i love clockworks though, stuff like this is just up my alley, if only i weren't so damn clumsy
Did you print this using the 2.5.x version of PrusaSlicer? If not, that could help a bit to scale it down even further. The new version can print smaller features with bigger nozzles by reducing the extrusion amount
No, I actually printed this using a Cura version 4.8 😅. But I've read about the arachne generator and its really cool. I believe Cura version 5.x.x has a similar feature. will try it out for sure!
@@mechanistic3d Arachne is the default print engine in 5.x.x.
omg. would buy the 50%
What is the runtime of the 35% vs the 100%?
What software do you use to create this machinal masterpiece?!?!?
How it feels to be a Swiss watch maker with an excessive amount of 3D prints
2:18 I tell girls with B cups the same thing to make them feel better.
What kind of plastic are you using?
Try to go smaller with an SLA printer :)
i'd love to see that 0.1 nozzle mechanical model
What is the best material for gears ?
make a wrist watch with this
Can a FDM printer reach the precision of a SLA only with a smaller nozzle ?
Impressive job !👍
Thanks! I believe it can come close to the level of SLA precision with a 0.1mm nozzle. I'm getting +/-0.1mm tolerances with a 0.15mm nozzle, and I believe it will improve with a smaller nozzle unless the limiting factor is the precision of the motion system. Nevertheless, I think it is still pretty impressive that a sub-500-dollar printer can achieve a 0.1mm level of accuracy.
@@mechanistic3d Thank you for your answer. My Prusa Mk3s+ works fine. The 0.4 nozzle does the job i expect in terms of precision and speed. If a 0.15 nozzle works as well as your video shows, maybe i'll buy another Prusa only to carry this small (magic) nozzle.
Can you print an Antikythera device?
Banana for scale. 🤣
Siemens NX?
thats such a large banana
One of these days you'll end up making Pico Mechanica from the lab-printed DNA molecules
You should try scaling your full tourbillon with a resin printer.
I will! Currently in the process of getting a resting printer 🙂
Yeah, I don’t care if it even only works for 20 minutes. wrist watch please! Lol. Anyway, I am so happy that works.
Why not simply resin print those parts even smaller ?
hello, do you sell any kits? thx!
how about resin though
smallest possible would be even smaller if you used a Mars 3 Pro ;) xD
I'll be ordering one soon!
@@mechanistic3d I intend to be doing exactly this when I upgrade my original Photon too :D I'll be aiming to print in castable resin, and cast the pieces in brass using my lost wax casting equipment.
@@noviceartisan that sounds like some next level stuff and I would love to see it
@@mechanistic3d I'll share when I do, need to get the printer first haha Poor lyf xD
@@mechanistic3d As a note, i reccomend the Mars Pro 3 for the low cost initially, and low cost of spares (your wallet will thank me for this whilst you're in the learning phase). The top tier printer is the Photon D2 as it's using DLP Tech, but the fact is, once you enable Anti-Aliasing, it's damn hard to distinguish undera microscope against the (massively overpriced due to lack of competition) Sonic Mini 8k. The terms 4k, 6k, 8k are all trash in 3d printer terms. You're better to simply check the Pixels Per Inch of the LCD, which will give you a much more realistic grasp (for non-DLP printers anyway)
Anycubic DO have a new 10 micron printer which they're threatening to cause puddles with, but it's not on the market yet and details are few. The build area is truly miniscule tho, so it's only really for those of us making super fine detailed stuff like mechanical parts and jewellery/embossed work etc.
What 3d software are you using to scale them?
How do you design your escapement geometries?
I referred to this document www.abbeyclock.com/EscMechanics.pdf
However, you need to make quite a number of modifications for 3D printing since the ideal geometry only works for CNC machining.
is this system is unlimited
What program did you use to scale?
This really beat all expectations. Didn't think you would get 50% to work on fdm. How smal could this go with SLS I wonder. or is the material not suited for mechanical components?
Thanks, I'm equally surprised how well it works at 50% scale. I was initially concerned that the thin escape wheel fingers would just snap right off the build plate, but it looks like I underestimated the material properties of PLA.
I don't have much experience with SLS, Material should be fine, but the rough powdery texture might not introduce too much friction for mechanical components.
Print the anticathera mechanism...however its spelled. Copying it as intended not after centuries of degradation
Mate invest in some calipers
i wonder if a 3d printed pocketwatch is realistically possible
I think it is possible to cram a basic working watch movement into a 70mm pocket watch. However, the components will still be relatively larger compared to an actual pocket watch movement since it's nearly impossible to achieve that level of miniaturization with consumer-level 3D printers (for now). Also, assuming it is possible, plastic material will not be as reliable as metal, especially at such tiny scale, in the long run due to creep and other forms of degradation.
@@mechanistic3d it would probably make for a good video at least
A={1,3,2,{57,22,91,87},3,8}
Beli di mana?
can it be even smaller?😄
How small could you take it with resin?
I not sure, but probably 20-25% of the original dimension, assuming that it works.
Let’s go to 0.01 mm.))))
海外版からくりすと
🔥💕👌👍
Can you make for me 1 watch please I payed you please I love it
I LOVE to see your alll videos...
have you ever heard of MEMS, actual micro devices, click bait