A remington 5 just like the one you've got. The platen needs to be recovered for sure, but I've noticed now the feed rollers have flat sides from sitting for 60-70 years. Can't see how to get them off.
+Eric Edstrom Getting the feed rollers out is a bit challenging, but it can be done! I think i ended up forming the little L-tab on the right end of the rear assembly to slip the axle out. BUT BE CAREFUL!! overstressing the metal of that tab can break off, so don't bend it more than you have to. I found rubber tubing at a local auto parts store - had to poke around a bit, but eventually found the correct diameters...works like a charm!
That's a great tip! I was picturing having to take the whole carriage off because I couldn't see how that whole assembly was attached. I def did not want to mess with that. Once I get them off I'll go to search auto parts stores. We have a lot of those around here. :)
This post gave me the help (and courage) I needed to repair a broken carriage return lever on my 1930s Remington 5. Another in a series of clear, concise, and well-produced videos. Many thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge of the proper care, feeding, and grooming of all manner of typewriter.
This actually helped with removing the right knob on my Remington Deluxe Noiseless. With some PB Blaster into the right side in general (get it into the hole where the set screw is and was after removing it), a good ol twisting will get it loose for sure. Turns out the platen activated the platen lock and kept the carriage constantly advancing and not meshing with the gear.
So I just gave this a try on one of my Remington 5's. It was easier than I expected. The trick is, like most any work with a typewriter, to really be gentle, but still firm. I found some parts that were stated here as tricky to indeed be a challenge, but nothing I couldn't figure out! The indexing system WILL try to collapse on you - don't let it! it really does try to slide out along with the Platen when you pull things out. Getting things in IS tricky, especially again around the indexing system, but if you just help the parts gently into position, it all goes back together nicely. Oddly, I had ZERO issues with the left knob and the index release - it wants to go on just fine. That being said, I never, EVER would get "comfortable" with it, and dare risk damaging that little nub as shown in this video. Just not worth it, the moment you don't exercise caution is the moment something goes wrong. The funny thing? I did this in the hopes it would help me fix an unrelated issue I've noticed with "my" Rem 5, but nope! Couldn't get any closed to the backspace. Such is life, but at least I feel better about working with the machine.
Thanks for the video, I was just gifted a Remington Envoy yesterday and it needs some love, looks like the same system as this 5. There's a sticker stuck around the platen...painful
Hey Mr. Justice, I was gifted a Remington Noiseless 6 for Christmas. It's beautiful but it needs a cleaning and I was wondering if you could make a video to help me or point me in the right direction? Thanks
There's a thin piece of metal that goes in the index assembly, a spring of some sort. It got dislodged when I had the platen off to replace the feed rollers. Where is it supposed to go? It's loose, and the index assembly sometimes doesn't advance properly.
Helpful video! Happen to know anything about the Remington Noiseless 8? Not having much luck finding information on that model and fixing the feed rollers.
Hello. This was helpful getting the platen out but now how about the other little rollers on the Rem 5? I got one on ebay that was advertised as being in working condition but the paper wouldn’t go through (liars) so the platen isn’t pulling paper through and all the small rollers are either flat or broken due to brittleness. How do I get those off to send to JJ Short please? Thank you 🙏🏾
hi, love your channel very informative and entertaining. got a quick question how do u clean a Remington Delux 5? and what to do if you have a sticky key?
Can you do a video on pulling the platen on a corona four (or a corona with a similar setup)? I'd love to get some trusted advice on that procedure. Thanks
nice video, to get the left knob off, have you tried making a strap wrench out of something you can get through the platen , ie a strong piece of card or cloth and for the brass piece of the knob section you could use a metal strap wrench (aka like you use to get an oil filter loose from your car's engine, but smaller).
andy van - that’s a great idea. i usually don’t have too much trouble with them, and whenever i do i just use a drop or two of Kroil on the spot where it screws in & come back to it in a few hours...works like a charm.
Hi my daughter has a Remington Sperry Rand Ten Forty and I believe the part you are referring to as the carriage is jammed it will not budge so when she type it types the letters over each other can you please give me some advice on how to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
The feed rollers all ride on thin metal rods, knurled on one end; unless your machine has been tampered with the knurling should indicate the direction which the mandrel needs to be pulled. Examine the feed rollers themselves to locate the mandrels they ride on - the front feed rollers share a mandrel with the carriage plate as well as with the platen tray; the rear rollers will require that you carefully bend the end-stop tab before pulling the mandrel out to one side, through the available hole/cutaway in the carriage end plate.
Excellent video! I have a '39 Remington Rand Portable Model 5 (Canadian) that is in wonderful condition, but the scale and paper fingers have no tension. I'm assuming a spring is missing but I can't seem to figure out where it would go. It looks like it goes somewhere on the left side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
you are mostly correct - there IS a spring, but it wraps around the mounting screw on the RIGHT end of the scale. There's actually a strong chance that part of your spring is still attached, since very often the long arm on it will break off & cause the exact symptoms you are describing. The good news is that you can make another one rather easily with thin spring-steel rod stock(AKA music wire), normally found at Ace Hardware, Hobby Lobby, or any model r/c hobby shop - for this spring i would use the K&S Precision Metals .025 music wire. There are several different methods on the internet for making springs, but you don't need anything fancy for this one - just a couple of wraps around a screwdriver, snip the arms to fit, put a couple of quick bends in the ends. If you want, you can toss an email my way & i'll send you a picture of what the spring is supposed to be shaped like - my email address is typewriterjustice@gmail.com
Awesome videos! Any chance you might do one on how to remove the platen on an Optima Elite 3? (Or Olympia or any machine like the Optima...) I need to get mine re-rubberized but don't want to screw it up trying to do something I'm not familiar with.
I have the issue of the loose index release on the left platen knob. I am not able to thread it on. I continue to spin it and the threads don’t catch. How can I fix this?
@@EmmaIturriria Patience & careful observation are the key! make sure that the index tensioner(in the indexing assembly, the tiny roller on an arm) is properly seated ON the sprocket teeth instead of NEXT to them, as this would keep the platen from fitting all the way left, causing the threads to not meet; it’s also possible that the indexing assembly is slightly out of position on its pivot collar, leading to the same result. when in doubt, it’s better to remove the platen, check everything, and then insert it again rather than to fight with it on the first try or to bend/force anything.
Thank you! I gave it a try but it still won’t thread on. I tried screwing it onto the platen outside of the machine and it won’t thread. Do you think it could be a problem with the threading?
@@EmmaIturririahmm. if the threads on the end of the platen were damaged in the removal/installation(which is entirely possible & fairly easy to do) then that would definitely need to be addressed before reassembly, and unless you have excellent eyesight i suggest inspecting them under magnification. It's worthy of mention that these are NOT reverse threaded, so it should behave like a regular nut/bolt arrangement. If the thread end is laid over, you can(also under magnification) set it straight with needle files, a utility knife, or really anything slim enough to separate the thread channels.
if you have the right spools, you can just wind any 1/2" standard ribbon onto them; they should have room for about 8 yards--roughly half of a standard ribbon. If you don't have spools, i'd suggest contacting TTS Business Products in Garden City, NY, or just search eBay for 'Remington 5 typewriter ribbon metal spools'
What about Remington noiseless portable? & would I have access to change- ( Rear/Front)-Feed Rollers? Also , could i send out my platon? To get re fixed ? Or should I find a new one? Ps. What’s good oil to use? For the rods that are on the feed rollers. Please help
Troy Luna - in the USA you can have platens & feed rollers recovered by JJ Short Associates, as well as by Steve Dade(though Mr Dade is more discerning as to which machines he services). Both are easily found on the interwebs.
it’s actually 4 screws & eccentric nuts, each with with a small metal plate - two on each side, near the top of the chassis, accessible only once the lid & body have been removed. NOT the easiest machine to adjust, but also not the worst :)
follow the physics with your eyes. there's really not much that can go wrong with the spacing mechanism other than linkage/pivot issues or the escapement. If it's the former, you might be able to fix it yourself; if it's the latter, you need to find a repair shop or a knowledgeable collector in your area. I can't say much more without seeing the machine or having a detailed description of precisely what happens & doesn't happen and WHEN it all does or doesn't happen as the spacebar is pressed, as well as what is going on with the rest of the machine. It could also just be something lodged inside the machine - you wouldn't believe some of the shit I've seen obstructing spacebar & key-arm movements: jewelry, dead bugs, mouse bones, money, rusted linkages, cigarette butts, Hot Wheels cars, Lego bricks, old letters & mail, bits of cloth... there's no telling. Flip the machine up onto it's ass, wiggle the spacebar & see what moves. Press a key or two & compare that to what the spacebar does. They both should act on the escapement in similar but slightly different ways, and you can follow every bit of the kinetic train visually. A good cup of coffee can help, seriously.
If you have problem with spanners/wrenches google Ignition Spanners/Wrenches available in SAE/AF and metric and BA...theyre still avaiable, still have some from my days in the 50-70s
Hey there! I just bought a Remington Deluxe 5. It's a European model so the keyboard is QWERTZ not QWERTY. Is there any way to change the keys and the keybars? Would love a video.
for the average person, no, there is no way to change it. If you are lucky enough to live near a legitimate repair shop, ask your repairman if he'll swap the typeslugs & keys for you...which he might not. Re-soldering typeslugs can be a royal pain in the ass even if you have the proper jig & shims, and I would never do that sort of work on a machine just out of preference rather than necessity. Have a loose typeslug? fine, break out the solder & jig. Machine is okay but you just dont like qwertZ layout? tough shit - buy qwertY next time. The Deluxe Model 5 is as common as cows - if you want one with a QWERTY layout, go buy one! I'm willing to bet there's at least five of them for less than fifty bucks each on eBay right this very second. seriously.
Since we are talking about platen-rubber here, what ‘s the most common problem that causes your letters to sometimes punch holes right through the paper, for example the period symbol, it just punches a hole into the paper. Is that always because the rubber is hard, cause in my opinion it still seems to be in okay-condition. The machine I am talking about is a German Erika Modell M if that helps in any way. Another thing, is it possible to somehow recover the rubber on the feed rollers like you can do on the platen?
characters cutting through the paper can be caused by the platen being too hard, but also by it being too soft! if it's just the period, comma & slash doing it you can normally peen the ring-stop on the typebar to decrease the impact; if you don't have peening pliers or aren't comfortable attempting it, you can use roller-pliers on the shady if the typebar itself(but again, this is a specialty tool AND YOU WILL RISK CRACKING THE TYPEBAR, not to mention this is a less precise method than peening) The easy solution is to just make sure to use at least 24lb paper with a backing sheet; I use a 30lb linen and get great results. Hope this helps!
and regarding feed rollers, yes indeed you can recover them. The model M is relatively easy to get them out, and you might be able to find rubber of the proper ID/OD at your local auto parts store. When I did mine, I found rubber for the front feed rollers easily enough, but for the rear rollers it was bit of a challenge to find
it's also worth mentioning that unless your feed rollers are hardened or have flat spots, you might be able to get them working better simply by cleaning them with rubbing alcohol & a cotton cloth. very often this will restore grip with much less risk of damage to the machine
Do you have a Skype account or something similar, I would love to have a chat-conversation with you sometimes. If you have, you find me under the name: "olumin6617" or "olumin" in Skype.
i've never worked on one, but like any other machine it's just nuts and bolts: if someone put it together, you can take it apart. If you go slow, be observant, follow the physics, think before you act, take lots of pictures(especially of the index mechanism before, during, and after platen removal) and try to only remove parts that you understand, then you stand a good chance of being able to put it back together. Best of luck!
I wish mine was that easy, I have been trying to figure out how to remove the platen from my 1940 Royal Aristocrat. In the process of trying, I broke one of the little screws on the right hand knob...
It is, actually. The only real difference between this and the Aristocrat is how the left knob comes out; the rest is the same. On the Remington the left knob itself unscrews, whereas on the Royal the left knob has two set-screws on the collar in the middle (some models only have one collar screw, depends on year). On the right side, leave the KNOB screws alone, but remove the PLATEN COLLAR screws so that the platen rod can be removed by pulling on the right knob(which remains attached to the rod for this entire procedure). Keep in mind, when you go to remove the rod, it's likely going to be somewhat stuck inside the platen collars, so you're going to need to be gentle; rotate the knob as you pull it out. More likely than not the rod would benefit from a bit lubrication, and THIS IS WHY GOD MADE "PB BLASTER" !!! When you find yourself having to use excessive force, 9 times out of 10 you're doing it wrong, no matter what you're doing. Spray some PB Blaster in there, let is soak for AT LEAST two hours, then give it another try. Still stuck? Spray it again, and this time leave it overnight. I'm not kidding. This is slow work. Be patient. Use the right tools(including the right size of screwdriver). Let me know how it ends up!
Brian Yusko - make sure the detent lever is engaged, then slip the pawl arm back onto the center flange. if you need a photo of how it's supposed to look, i can send you a picture - email me at typewriterjustice@gmail.com
Would it be the same way on say a Royal Quiet De Luxe? Thanks for all your great videos and help! Are there a better way to contact you? Like email or Skype? I could use some help if you are offering, or maybe you self are open for doing some work?
Are there anyone in the world (exactly, the world because in my country there is no one who fixes typewriters) who could sell their services of helping me to fix a typewriter remotely? Model: Silver Reed SR 180 DE LUXE. The carriage lever just brings advances but does not bring it to the next line, some wheel near the lever seems to be fallen or got lose.
I was so happy to find this. Exactly what I needed.
+Eric Edstrom Bueno! glad to be of service :) What machine are you working on?(there are several that this video works for, always curious)
A remington 5 just like the one you've got. The platen needs to be recovered for sure, but I've noticed now the feed rollers have flat sides from sitting for 60-70 years. Can't see how to get them off.
+Eric Edstrom Getting the feed rollers out is a bit challenging, but it can be done! I think i ended up forming the little L-tab on the right end of the rear assembly to slip the axle out. BUT BE CAREFUL!! overstressing the metal of that tab can break off, so don't bend it more than you have to. I found rubber tubing at a local auto parts store - had to poke around a bit, but eventually found the correct diameters...works like a charm!
That's a great tip! I was picturing having to take the whole carriage off because I couldn't see how that whole assembly was attached. I def did not want to mess with that. Once I get them off I'll go to search auto parts stores. We have a lot of those around here. :)
This post gave me the help (and courage) I needed to repair a broken carriage return lever on my 1930s Remington 5. Another in a series of clear, concise, and well-produced videos. Many thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge of the proper care, feeding, and grooming of all manner of typewriter.
This actually helped with removing the right knob on my Remington Deluxe Noiseless. With some PB Blaster into the right side in general (get it into the hole where the set screw is and was after removing it), a good ol twisting will get it loose for sure. Turns out the platen activated the platen lock and kept the carriage constantly advancing and not meshing with the gear.
i love me some PB Blaster, but Kroil won’t stink up the whole house ;)
So I just gave this a try on one of my Remington 5's. It was easier than I expected. The trick is, like most any work with a typewriter, to really be gentle, but still firm. I found some parts that were stated here as tricky to indeed be a challenge, but nothing I couldn't figure out!
The indexing system WILL try to collapse on you - don't let it! it really does try to slide out along with the Platen when you pull things out. Getting things in IS tricky, especially again around the indexing system, but if you just help the parts gently into position, it all goes back together nicely.
Oddly, I had ZERO issues with the left knob and the index release - it wants to go on just fine. That being said, I never, EVER would get "comfortable" with it, and dare risk damaging that little nub as shown in this video. Just not worth it, the moment you don't exercise caution is the moment something goes wrong.
The funny thing? I did this in the hopes it would help me fix an unrelated issue I've noticed with "my" Rem 5, but nope! Couldn't get any closed to the backspace.
Such is life, but at least I feel better about working with the machine.
Thanks for the video, I was just gifted a Remington Envoy yesterday and it needs some love, looks like the same system as this 5. There's a sticker stuck around the platen...painful
Very clear instructions and video! Two thumbs up!
Hey Mr. Justice, I was gifted a Remington Noiseless 6 for Christmas. It's beautiful but it needs a cleaning and I was wondering if you could make a video to help me or point me in the right direction? Thanks
Fantastic video, as always. Thank you for taking the time to share!
bruhjun Thanks for watching :) I hope it helps!
There's a thin piece of metal that goes in the index assembly, a spring of some sort. It got dislodged when I had the platen off to replace the feed rollers. Where is it supposed to go? It's loose, and the index assembly sometimes doesn't advance properly.
Helpful video! Happen to know anything about the Remington Noiseless 8? Not having much luck finding information on that model and fixing the feed rollers.
Hello. This was helpful getting the platen out but now how about the other little rollers on the Rem 5? I got one on ebay that was advertised as being in working condition but the paper wouldn’t go through (liars) so the platen isn’t pulling paper through and all the small rollers are either flat or broken due to brittleness. How do I get those off to send to JJ Short please? Thank you 🙏🏾
I so wanted to hang in there and learn but I was getting sea-sick.
hi, love your channel very informative and entertaining. got a quick question how do u clean a Remington Delux 5? and what to do if you have a sticky key?
Can you do a video on pulling the platen on a corona four (or a corona with a similar setup)? I'd love to get some trusted advice on that procedure. Thanks
nice video, to get the left knob off, have you tried making a strap wrench out of something you can get through the platen , ie a strong piece of card or cloth and for the brass piece of the knob section you could use a metal strap wrench (aka like you use to get an oil filter loose from your car's engine, but smaller).
andy van - that’s a great idea. i usually don’t have too much trouble with them, and whenever i do i just use a drop or two of Kroil on the spot where it screws in & come back to it in a few hours...works like a charm.
Hi my daughter has a Remington Sperry Rand Ten Forty and I believe the part you are referring to as the carriage is jammed it will not budge so when she type it types the letters over each other can you please give me some advice on how to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Love the video! But how do you get the feed rollers out?
The feed rollers all ride on thin metal rods, knurled on one end; unless your machine has been tampered with the knurling should indicate the direction which the mandrel needs to be pulled. Examine the feed rollers themselves to locate the mandrels they ride on - the front feed rollers share a mandrel with the carriage plate as well as with the platen tray; the rear rollers will require that you carefully bend the end-stop tab before pulling the mandrel out to one side, through the available hole/cutaway in the carriage end plate.
Excellent video! I have a '39 Remington Rand Portable Model 5 (Canadian) that is in wonderful condition, but the scale and paper fingers have no tension. I'm assuming a spring is missing but I can't seem to figure out where it would go.
It looks like it goes somewhere on the left side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
you are mostly correct - there IS a spring, but it wraps around the mounting screw on the RIGHT end of the scale. There's actually a strong chance that part of your spring is still attached, since very often the long arm on it will break off & cause the exact symptoms you are describing. The good news is that you can make another one rather easily with thin spring-steel rod stock(AKA music wire), normally found at Ace Hardware, Hobby Lobby, or any model r/c hobby shop - for this spring i would use the K&S Precision Metals .025 music wire. There are several different methods on the internet for making springs, but you don't need anything fancy for this one - just a couple of wraps around a screwdriver, snip the arms to fit, put a couple of quick bends in the ends. If you want, you can toss an email my way & i'll send you a picture of what the spring is supposed to be shaped like - my email address is typewriterjustice@gmail.com
Thank you so much for the reply!
Awesome videos! Any chance you might do one on how to remove the platen on an Optima Elite 3? (Or Olympia or any machine like the Optima...) I need to get mine re-rubberized but don't want to screw it up trying to do something I'm not familiar with.
Mrs. Blennerhassit - i have three of them, so YES!! i will totally make a video for it :)
@@TypewriterJustice Because you are awesome. That's why!
I have the issue of the loose index release on the left platen knob. I am not able to thread it on. I continue to spin it and the threads don’t catch. How can I fix this?
@@EmmaIturriria Patience & careful observation are the key! make sure that the index tensioner(in the indexing assembly, the tiny roller on an arm) is properly seated ON the sprocket teeth instead of NEXT to them, as this would keep the platen from fitting all the way left, causing the threads to not meet; it’s also possible that the indexing assembly is slightly out of position on its pivot collar, leading to the same result. when in doubt, it’s better to remove the platen, check everything, and then insert it again rather than to fight with it on the first try or to bend/force anything.
Thank you! I gave it a try but it still won’t thread on. I tried screwing it onto the platen outside of the machine and it won’t thread. Do you think it could be a problem with the threading?
@@EmmaIturririahmm. if the threads on the end of the platen were damaged in the removal/installation(which is entirely possible & fairly easy to do) then that would definitely need to be addressed before reassembly, and unless you have excellent eyesight i suggest inspecting them under magnification. It's worthy of mention that these are NOT reverse threaded, so it should behave like a regular nut/bolt arrangement. If the thread end is laid over, you can(also under magnification) set it straight with needle files, a utility knife, or really anything slim enough to separate the thread channels.
Howdy. I was wondering if you know what size ribbon to purchase for these typewriters? I can't find any that fit mine. Thank you!
if you have the right spools, you can just wind any 1/2" standard ribbon onto them; they should have room for about 8 yards--roughly half of a standard ribbon. If you don't have spools, i'd suggest contacting TTS Business Products in Garden City, NY, or just search eBay for 'Remington 5 typewriter ribbon metal spools'
What about Remington noiseless portable? & would I have access to change- ( Rear/Front)-Feed Rollers? Also , could i send out my platon? To get re fixed ? Or should I find a new one? Ps. What’s good oil to use? For the rods that are on the feed rollers.
Please help
Troy Luna - in the USA you can have platens & feed rollers recovered by JJ Short Associates, as well as by Steve Dade(though Mr Dade is more discerning as to which machines he services). Both are easily found on the interwebs.
Does anybody know where the screws are located to lower or heighten the lower case/upper case letters on this typewriter?
it’s actually 4 screws & eccentric nuts, each with with a small metal plate - two on each side, near the top of the chassis, accessible only once the lid & body have been removed. NOT the easiest machine to adjust, but also not the worst :)
Hi, i have a model 1 and am looking for some help getting it operational. the space bar doesn't seem to work. any suggestions?
follow the physics with your eyes. there's really not much that can go wrong with the spacing mechanism other than linkage/pivot issues or the escapement. If it's the former, you might be able to fix it yourself; if it's the latter, you need to find a repair shop or a knowledgeable collector in your area. I can't say much more without seeing the machine or having a detailed description of precisely what happens & doesn't happen and WHEN it all does or doesn't happen as the spacebar is pressed, as well as what is going on with the rest of the machine. It could also just be something lodged inside the machine - you wouldn't believe some of the shit I've seen obstructing spacebar & key-arm movements: jewelry, dead bugs, mouse bones, money, rusted linkages, cigarette butts, Hot Wheels cars, Lego bricks, old letters & mail, bits of cloth... there's no telling. Flip the machine up onto it's ass, wiggle the spacebar & see what moves. Press a key or two & compare that to what the spacebar does. They both should act on the escapement in similar but slightly different ways, and you can follow every bit of the kinetic train visually. A good cup of coffee can help, seriously.
Like your work
If you have problem with spanners/wrenches
google Ignition Spanners/Wrenches available in SAE/AF and metric and BA...theyre still avaiable, still have some from my days in the 50-70s
Hey there!
I just bought a Remington Deluxe 5. It's a European model so the keyboard is QWERTZ not QWERTY. Is there any way to change the keys and the keybars?
Would love a video.
for the average person, no, there is no way to change it. If you are lucky enough to live near a legitimate repair shop, ask your repairman if he'll swap the typeslugs & keys for you...which he might not. Re-soldering typeslugs can be a royal pain in the ass even if you have the proper jig & shims, and I would never do that sort of work on a machine just out of preference rather than necessity. Have a loose typeslug? fine, break out the solder & jig. Machine is okay but you just dont like qwertZ layout? tough shit - buy qwertY next time. The Deluxe Model 5 is as common as cows - if you want one with a QWERTY layout, go buy one! I'm willing to bet there's at least five of them for less than fifty bucks each on eBay right this very second. seriously.
Remove platen on royal varsity?
I am looking at a Remington standard 12.
Where would I send out for new rubber?
JJ Short Associates in Macedon, NY
TypewriterJustice thanks
Since we are talking about platen-rubber here, what ‘s the most common problem that causes your letters to sometimes punch holes right through the paper, for example the period symbol, it just punches a hole into the paper. Is that always because the rubber is hard, cause in my opinion it still seems to be in okay-condition. The machine I am talking about is a German Erika Modell M if that helps in any way.
Another thing, is it possible to somehow recover the rubber on the feed rollers like you can do on the platen?
characters cutting through the paper can be caused by the platen being too hard, but also by it being too soft! if it's just the period, comma & slash doing it you can normally peen the ring-stop on the typebar to decrease the impact; if you don't have peening pliers or aren't comfortable attempting it, you can use roller-pliers on the shady if the typebar itself(but again, this is a specialty tool AND YOU WILL RISK CRACKING THE TYPEBAR, not to mention this is a less precise method than peening) The easy solution is to just make sure to use at least 24lb paper with a backing sheet; I use a 30lb linen and get great results. Hope this helps!
and regarding feed rollers, yes indeed you can recover them. The model M is relatively easy to get them out, and you might be able to find rubber of the proper ID/OD at your local auto parts store. When I did mine, I found rubber for the front feed rollers easily enough, but for the rear rollers it was bit of a challenge to find
it's also worth mentioning that unless your feed rollers are hardened or have flat spots, you might be able to get them working better simply by cleaning them with rubbing alcohol & a cotton cloth. very often this will restore grip with much less risk of damage to the machine
Do you have a Skype account or something similar, I would love to have a chat-conversation with you sometimes. If you have, you find me under the name: "olumin6617" or "olumin" in Skype.
how do i remove the platen on a standard continental typewriter?
i've never worked on one, but like any other machine it's just nuts and bolts: if someone put it together, you can take it apart. If you go slow, be observant, follow the physics, think before you act, take lots of pictures(especially of the index mechanism before, during, and after platen removal) and try to only remove parts that you understand, then you stand a good chance of being able to put it back together. Best of luck!
I wish mine was that easy, I have been trying to figure out how to remove the platen from my 1940 Royal Aristocrat. In the process of trying, I broke one of the little screws on the right hand knob...
It is, actually. The only real difference between this and the Aristocrat is how the left knob comes out; the rest is the same. On the Remington the left knob itself unscrews, whereas on the Royal the left knob has two set-screws on the collar in the middle (some models only have one collar screw, depends on year). On the right side, leave the KNOB screws alone, but remove the PLATEN COLLAR screws so that the platen rod can be removed by pulling on the right knob(which remains attached to the rod for this entire procedure). Keep in mind, when you go to remove the rod, it's likely going to be somewhat stuck inside the platen collars, so you're going to need to be gentle; rotate the knob as you pull it out. More likely than not the rod would benefit from a bit lubrication, and THIS IS WHY GOD MADE "PB BLASTER" !!! When you find yourself having to use excessive force, 9 times out of 10 you're doing it wrong, no matter what you're doing. Spray some PB Blaster in there, let is soak for AT LEAST two hours, then give it another try. Still stuck? Spray it again, and this time leave it overnight. I'm not kidding. This is slow work. Be patient. Use the right tools(including the right size of screwdriver). Let me know how it ends up!
Would this work for Remington Rand Noiseless Model one?
good question! i’ve never had one, so i have no clue. try it and report back!
I did try it and it worked! Thanks so much for a fine educational video. Do you have a tip jar?
I was a moron and let the index move. How do I fix that?
Brian Yusko - make sure the detent lever is engaged, then slip the pawl arm back onto the center flange. if you need a photo of how it's supposed to look, i can send you a picture - email me at typewriterjustice@gmail.com
Would it be the same way on say a Royal Quiet De Luxe? Thanks for all your great videos and help! Are there a better way to contact you? Like email or Skype? I could use some help if you are offering, or maybe you self are open for doing some work?
Are there anyone in the world (exactly, the world because in my country there is no one who fixes typewriters) who could sell their services of helping me to fix a typewriter remotely? Model: Silver Reed SR 180 DE LUXE. The carriage lever just brings advances but does not bring it to the next line, some wheel near the lever seems to be fallen or got lose.
Radio Voice!