The Wood-Mounted Motherboard Challenge!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- The Wood-Mounted Motherboard Challenge!
I need to mount a motherboard to wood, so I try out some different methods in this video.
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200pcs M3 Brass Standoff Assortment Kit - amzn.to/30zLGll
Drillpro 6pcs Combination 1/4" Hex Twist Tap Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/2LOXLiH
Makita XT273R 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 2-Pc. Drill Kit (2.0Ah) - amzn.to/30wTcOc
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Thanks for watching guys! 🙏 Here are links to some of the videos I mentioned --
Most Recent HTPC Video - th-cam.com/video/TTEgF2ymcQ0/w-d-xo.html
Building a Stand for Riptide - th-cam.com/video/4MN_GXVcqW8/w-d-xo.html
You might want to look into nutserts or rivnuts.
Im excited about this I've been thinking about doing a similar thing I just have an issue figuring out how to do the drive trays id like something smooth instead of just stacking an optical drive on a shelf inside lol
I'll be watching this closely. Definitely put a video up on your custom build. I want to do this as well!
I think you have a good idea with the insert. You could drill all the way through. Screw in another bolt to it at the bottom. Where you can attach your grounding wire. So it is clean and hidden a little. Since i know your i to looking neat and trim.
But but but, you can just buy "4 Pronged Tee Nuts" for this....
Disappointed Paul wasn't wearing one of Kyle's "Screw with Confidence" shirts for this video :-P
Pro tip that we use on RC airplanes - add thin CA to the holes let dry and re-tap threads. The threads will be much stronger.
what's a CA???
Same question lol
@@johnnyxp64 it's a brand of super-glue.
@@mhoop1 It's the other way around, Super Glue is a brand of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.
SteelSkin667 either way those to lazy to google now know it’s glue.
You could drill all the way thru the wood, secure the standoff on the back side with a screw and use the back for your grounding wires. You could also use a router to make channels for the ground wire to keep it clean. =) Looking forward to seeing this finished.
So you have nuts to help you mount your wood? ; - )
APPROVE
😂
Why not use riv-nuts (rivet with a thread) or well-nuts??
rivetnuts.com/
Everyone smash the like in these please so Paul sees
I was thinking the same, rivet, tried and tested in evryyythinnggg.
The chance to split the wood using this is high, because they need to expand to properly fit, that why is most used on metal. For wood the best option is or screw directly, what I highly don't recommend, or use insert nuts.
I made my own test bench yesterday and I used both wood and perspex. I used the perspex for the motherboard and the wood for the stand. Used screws to get them together and used a 2mm drill bit in perspex to just screw in my 2.5mm motherboard screws with also using higher stand screws to lift the motherboard.
I've done something like this in the past, and i found the only really secure mounting method, just because of the tiny size of the hardware (nuts & bolts), as well as wood being able to expand and contract with differences in temperature and humidity, was to get a cheapo case (i'm guessing you have plenty around), cut it up to get the actual motherboard tray, trim it down so that it's smaller than the board, so that it's not visible when viewing it from the front, and then screw that motherboard tray directly into the wood, using actual wood screws.
That would also help with grounding, as you can run a ground wire from the tray, through the wood, and then run it on the back side, so that it won't be visible.
Isn’t friction the only thing holding in the inset standoffs, though? When the standoffs themselves are screwed in, they’d come out if you pulled straight up on them hard enough (ie, attach a fully loaded mobo and turn it upside down). At least with the tapbit method you’ve got the threads providing mechanical holding power. I’m not a carpenter, but it seems like things would get dangerously loose when the wood naturally expands.
Mounted an old laptop mobo & perifs to a piece of wood using zip ties and scotch tape years ago. Still runs to this day. Nice to see this concept with a little more thought put into it though. This actually gives BK a great idea using old (scrapped) helicopter parts. Thanks for the vid!
Today in computers: Watch me drill this wooden board!
I kid, interesting video Paul. I like the tap method, but I can see trying to keep everything straight can be a pain. Keep us posted!
This was great, I did something similar to this recently with much thinner wood. I used a screw to hold the standoff into the wood, effectively mounting the standoff upside down, and secured the motherboard to the self-aligning standoffs with nuts.
Going to use your video as inspiration for a diy terrarium with raspberry pi - thinking of building a small box to house electronics behind the home-made unit. Many thanks!
I'm in the process of building a PC into my wardrobe.
I drilled two 114mm holes for a 240mm radiator at the bottom for the intake and I exhaust the hot air out the top. That makes for a quite efficient cooling setup.
just finished watching how to build a 2019 setup and i liked your explanation, Thank you.
Watching Paul work with his wood. *Cue innuendo smirk*
i have a plan for one day when ill have money to build a pc inside a table with all new components...like properly powerfull, with rgb and glass windows....and this is one of the things i will need to do to put a motherboard on the planks....so its good to see you actually can do it....awesome!...thanx paul! ^__^
Threaded inserts work great too. Super easy to install
Hope you see this but just get M3 threaded inserts it’s what I use for sub box for the mounting for the subs so I can remove and swap stuff out without damaging wood would work the same for you
I mentioned this in the video before but 3D printing motherboard mounts and other mounts is a real option. My bro helped me out with that and my GPU motherboard, 2.5inch drives and power supply all have 3D printed mounts attached using proper wood screws, and the holes are all M3 to hold the hardware. Really handy if you know someone with a 3d printer laying around willing to donate some time.
Electro man gets wood, well done Paul
This is actually perfect timing. I will be mounting a motherboard to wood this weekend! I was going to use 3/4" plywood to test before moving to 1 1/2" hardwood. I was going to route out a channel behind the wood to inset a motherboard tray from an old disassembled case, drill through holes for the standoffs and use long motherboard standoffs through the wood to mount the motherboard. But honestly, the tapped holes in wood looked really good.
IMO, your approach is a tad overkill, but it does look solid! I've got an dual G34 Opteron board mounted to a slab of wood. I used small, self-tapping, wood screws and a dozen nylon spacers purchased at the local Ace for a few pennies each. I located the mobo, then used a long nail to dimple each hole center. Remove mobo. Use nail and hammer (or small drill) to establish a good pilot hole. Start at one corner with screw / mobo / spacer / board, and work your way across the board. The middle spacers are a pain. You can tack them into place with a drop of CA, or push them around with a straw to position them properly.
Paul's Hardware - there is an improvement for the "tap method" by putting a small blob of wood glue in the hole before screwing it in, that way the wood that the threads bite into will become a very solid mass for the future, and you will still be able to remove it later if you decide to...
Inset is the way to go they even make some "M3 Knife Thread Inserts" that have grooves on the outside to better hold onto the wood.
I would do the hammered in standoff method but I would use one of the standoffs that has a screw on the end rather than the double threaded. Drill the depth for the hex portion, then drill a smaller hole for the threaded and then put a tiny bit of epoxy on the treads before hammering it in. The screw end will keep the epoxy out of the center threads so you can remove the motherboard stand-off from the inset one and the epoxy will help bond it into the hole.
I would put the spacers into Polished acrylic, carbon fiber, silver and or titanium perhaps with a gold plate. Translucent edging on acrylic might light nice.
What an awesome idea, Paul. excited to see the finished product!
Currently building a PC inside a pelican case. Trying to figure out if I should use Acrylic or Wood as a motherboard tray.
No matter how much i try, i'll never get used to measuring things in freedom units. Thank god for online calculators to convert it to metric for me quickly!
This great. I’m wall mounting a laptop motherboard with SSD. It’s very light and hopefully will look damn cool.
Use a screwtype Clamp like a press to insert the standoff that goes into the wood. :)
I was thinking the same and how to mount on wood because of the grounding and if there are any issues with it. The only issue i can find is the heat at the back of the motherboard so if you want use one more on top of the stand offs you already using for 1/2 inch space because wood and heat not a good combo.
Years ago at a club I'm say a diy plywood small pc. The builder was a friend of the DJ. He was in the DJ booth ripping CDs. It looked like an itx small box with plexi glass cover screwed on top. I always wondered how he did it.
On the stand offs, use the direct method with the threaded drill. Fill the hole with super glue that will sink into the wood and strengthen it around the hole area. Then the when dry re drill thread the hole or better still just use a hand tap.
Paul, thats awesome, seriously what a great idea, now as enthusiasts we dont only build our own pc's, but we can create our own pc cases too, out of wood, thats so awesome. You and kyle should come up with some designs or maybe get Jay involved what a project that would be, I could see you three coming up with some fantastic concept designs.
The insert one looks to be the best
I think I would try using dual thred screws:
M3x15 with wood thread tip.
Drill a smaller pilot hole.
Then screw in the wood threads, leaving the M3 threads outside.
Then mount standoff on the M3 sticking out.
If you want shorter M3 sticking out: you can go deeper on the pilot hole and expand to 3mm just the part uou want to sink the M3.
I used this method with M8 dual thread screw and M8 furniture nuts for a ceiling hatch, to get a semi permanent mount, but easy to unscrew the nuts every time I want access, avoiding wear on the wood threads.
What i would have done: take an old pc case, and remove the motherboard plate and screw that into the wood, leaving the existing holes for the standoffs available, as well as give you an option to ground the plate more easily into the psu.
Those screws are designed to be used with metal so using the standoff or washer would likely be the more successful methods. Wood is comparatively soft so the close and compact threads can eventually tear through the tapped bits of wood over time depending on the stresses it's exposed to.
Realistically tapped wood will probably work, although I might opt to drill a small hole and tap it by using the mobo standoffs to lower your tolerances. If the wood isn't obscenely dense and hard the mobo standoffs should be strong enough.
I also work a bit with screws and resins, you can use vaseline (petroleum jelly) or lithium grease as a release agent for your screws so that your washers/standoffs are properly positioned. Just coat the threads and screw 'em in. I've used that method under 15-20 PSI of vacuum so there shouldn't be any issue with press fit pressures in a porous material.
Oh and if you really want to do it proper, rough up the surfaces of pieces you are going to epoxy with some sandpaper, 120 grit ish or less to increase surface area for it to bond to. Might be a good idea to go with a resin that has a low viscosity to eliminate air pockets that will weaken the bond. Don't go too thin or it will get absorbed into the wood's pores. Even though you've pre stained the wood if you drill you're exposing end grain again which loves to absorb most liquids and ruin your finish.
If there's any epoxy overspill let it set for awhile and when it's a little more solid (but still a little pliable) use a sharp chisel to cut it away. If you just wipe with a rag or your finger you can cause it to spread and soak into the pores of the wood which will show through when you stain it. Wait until it fully cures before you sand it flush and do a final finish.
Thank you. I just found a wine box that's perfect for an ATX case. You've answered 2 of 3 lingering questions. The last is about airflow!
I'm building an arcade cabinet so I've had to mount a motherboard on plywood. The solution I went with was to use threaded inserts but the inset standoff is pretty much the same idea.
As some others have mentioned, you should use coarse-threaded insert nuts for mating metal to wood. Metal screws have fine, shallow threads that bite well into metal but are not meant for softer materials like wood. Given that a motherboard is not likely to experience any significant forces, you'd probably be okay with the methods you tried. However, it seems you have a nice piece of walnut there, so why not spend a few bucks on a pack of threaded inserts?
Wow i can't wait to see the finished project 👌
Hoping to build my daughter a birdhouse/pc... super helpful tips here! Wish me luck lol
Drive-in nuts !!!!, hammering it in could leaves some marks around.
That was enjoyable. Note that there's going to be a couple of differences with your walnut wood compared to particle board. The walnut is harder which is going to result in even stronger threads if you use the tap bit. And the walnut hardness will make it harder to hammer in the dual ended stand-offs so you might like to drill a slightly larger whole.
Maybe rerun your tests on the walnut under the place where you want to mount the mainboard?
Paul, this video could not have come at a better time. I will be attempting a diy wood pc very soon (hopefully). Thank you for including links to the suggested hardware.
Thanks, Paul!! I could definitely see myself using this later on.
Paul, just do a quick google search for "press in nuts" you'll find a lot of choices for hardware that will do exactly what you are trying to achieve properly. I would suggest a knurled rivet nut, you just drill a hole of slightly smaller diameter and tap it in with a hammer to get a secure mounting mechanism. The friction bond will be plenty strong without use of adhesives as long as the wood is already very dry to begin with.
It's been what two or three years that you started with that project nice to see you continuing on it.
Well, wood doesn't last forever, and in all scenarios that might be the limiting factor, as a certified hobby machinist, I would seriously recommend using a scrap piece of metal to make some more lasting thread in an X shaped design and screw in your metal piece into wood and then cheat a little and use nut to attache the risers and maybe sink the nut into wood. A few screws and some metal backing to the wood can be stronger than wood surface friction in my opinion, just hide the screws with the board. I like wood texture a lot, so I have been thinking about something like this, but I prefer to use a few screws and some metal to attach it. Plenty of donor old machines around.
Thanks fo this Paul. Something I never thought of but will definitely be trying. Now the only thing left is to figure out how to mount the PSU is the cleanest way possible.
Actually, have a piece of wood from an old desk I can use for this.
the nut works the best but from the other side and with the holow standoffs as spacers and normal m3 long screws.
Naturally you have to drill the wood all the way, with 3mm drill bits first and make a bigger hole for the nut, like in this video, to stand in.
Would be fun to make a diy test bench out of wood.
I've been waiting for this video for waaaaay too long...
I'd go with the inset method as well. It seems like the simplest and most secure solution with the lowest risk. The tap bit is nice, but your screwed if it strips for any reason. Pun maybe intended.
I drilled holes in the wood, used wood glu and threaded the standoffs. The glue dries creating threads,
nail polish remover or cellulose thinners should be used to clean epoxy gunk, just a heads up
So if you mount your motherboard on wood does that mean you no longer need those little insulating pads to keep your power supply from short-circuiting the rest of your system?
Paul, search HeliCoil you should be able to get them at your local hardware store. This is the way to go. Quick, secure, no glue required.
Good stuff for my Arcade 1up mod
Just use a nylon spacer between the MB and the wood and use a 1 1/2" No. 6 wood screw into the wood.
Yeah. I'm going to be starting to build my pc desk with custom water cooling all built into the desk with sliding trays etc. So this definately helpful for me.
I highly recommend using threaded insert nuts/countersinks (not sure how you call them) to mount the motherboard.
Check out this article for useful info: www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/q-installing-threaded-inserts/
And an experiment for you to see why this is the best way - take your test wood piece and start screwing and unscrewing bolts into all stand-offs.
Do it 20-30 times and you'll notice that everything else but the inserts gets wobbly.
I think a DIY clear or frosted acrylic desk with the computer inside would be pretty cool. Not sure if I want to attempt it or not.
Number 4 - no standoffs, just apoxy for the motherboard, safiest method - never will come loose, even Linus couldn't drop it from there.
I would use m3 threaded inserts for wood. Alternatively, maybe claw inserts for wood. This will allow you to change standoffs easily because once you take out a screw out of wood it is extremely difficult to put it back in. If you have steel or brass inserts, however you can adjust height quite easy.
The tab bit seems like the cleaner method
I am really glad this poped up...
I am thinking of modifying my core p7 at some point with a wood front that holds my rads And mobo And covers all the extra holes.
Also Will give be a better res mount points And not need to drill the case to do that.
Well maybe i Will need to drill the case here And there but it Will only be for front cable management as to i am also Using thermaltake rgb fittings And those are a god damn mess with those short connectors 1sm away from the fitting.
And also put a full 1.4m front glass aswell to kill a bit of the rgb madness from those ekwb vardar fans And the mobo itself.
Any idea what kind of wood would look Best on a dark wood walls room?
The 4th method is the way to go .
I am just worried that the heat will dry out the wood/deform it. Maybe a heat shield?
I have a copper epoxy floating corner desk, I was thinking of using acrylic, but a wood custom loop now has my curiosity with Asus Crosshair Impact x570
The first video of yours that I saw was the video where you bought the walnut
You should do the inset standoff method.
And then put a wire with ring lugs under each standoff to get grounding to each screw point....
Board > inset standoff > ground wire/ring lug > standoff > motherboard > screw
I would have used threaded studs with plastic spacers between the motherboard and the wood for stand-offs. Not sure why you have to use traditional PC stand-offs with this.
So I would look for Tnuts, just watch out there theres a couple kinds but the ones I'm talking about have little spikes in them. So those you drill a hole then tap them in with a hammer. Its alot like the double sided insert you did but spikes that hold it in like little nails. I googled threaded insert 3mm and saw them for 15 cents each. Or a threaded insert. Again alot like your insert you liked but theres threads on it so you like screw it in. Also if your using epoxy like that dont just dump it in, its better to brush it on then stick it in.
I'm super inspired to make a Wood PC now
perhaps most secure: bolted through with a bolt with same thread size as a female-female standoff (can get those in any height). Bonus would be if you use conductive bolts you could add that ground-wire on the back side of the wood out of view. Could use stand-offs tall enough to do a bit of real cable management behind the Mobo too?
You can buy threaded inserts from McMaster-Carr
I used Coax fittings for mobo risers.
The last method is the best method.
I like your wood Paul
Paul, you are overthinking this. It isn't like you are going to hang a truck from the wall. Just drill a hole with the inner diameter of an m3 screw (2.5 mm) and screw in the standoff. The standoff will do all the tapping.
It would be interesting to ask the motherboard makers if the ground connections in the mounting screws are preferable, necessary, or don't matter.
A faucet washer of the appropriate size would work as well, and those care generally black and some have a cool sort of conical shape. --> Link - www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-10-Pack-1-2-Rubber-Washer/3369350
2:28 HA! Got 'm!
I made standoffs from wood blocks for my antique table build (needed the cables to be routed under the motherboard). I just screwed in the standoffs from the back of the board, then mounted the motherboard to the standoffs with wood screws. The project: th-cam.com/video/5zFuhxBUJng/w-d-xo.html
Part of me does want to do a modern style open case design out of wood, but I also have cats and not a lot of money for nice wood.
Any reason why you used the M3 instead of the 6-32 screw?
Use a drop of water to make the wood forge with the standoff
All you have to do is drill a pilot hole and screw the standoffs in. Threading is not needed when working with wood.
Now that I think about it, what's stopping someone from say... using nylon spacers and wood screws?
Do you ever change your shirt?
Based on my experience, I can tell you that the tap bit is completely unnecessary. Just use a standard, slightly undersized bit. The wood is soft enough that the standoffs will cut their own threads no problem.
Also, I remember watching you with a router in some other video. You should cut some bow-ties into the crack of your walnut to keep the crack from expanding.
There are threaded inserts for wood, you don't need to glue nuts
Why wouldn't you just drill holes all the way through the wood and use the standoffs that have 2 female ends on the top side with a washer below it and secure it down with a m3 screw from the backside, Much stronger and if your worried about the head of the screw in the back sticking out just take a forstner bit and make a small recessed hole.
Why not use arcade cabinet legs?
Morning wood?
What is a htpc
meh i have lots of systems on wood, i just use half cm wood screw and screw the mobo directly to the wood, as for the ssd and psu i use velcrow and staples/woodscrew. also zip tie everything else.