I got this information below from a forum, not my first hand knowledge. Here is your shopping list for your local Junkyard. Find the turbo parts on the cheap. We had a guy in the WVVW club that used to race a junkyard turbo Baja. It was ugly to look at but, it flew. He loved to run against mustangs at the Southside Track. My personal favorite is the Garret TB0335. Popular on all the Shelby Turbo front wheel drives. BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348 BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348 BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308 BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48) BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water) BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301 BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304 BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308 GMC Syclone/Typhoon 4.3L Mitsu TDO6 17C/10cm2 CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05 CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04 13g CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H 14b CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water) CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle) DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05 DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335 DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H 14b EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04 13g EAGLE Talon (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim) FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344 FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344 FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only) FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled) FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52 FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2 FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5 MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water) MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301 MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301 MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359 MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344 MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344 MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344 MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04 13g MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H 14b MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim) MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooled) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05 PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335 PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooled 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05 PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04 PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335 PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2 PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2 PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water) SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356 SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld) SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld) SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343 SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321 VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313 VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05 VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05 VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363 VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05 VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368 VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326 VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363 VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326 VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363 VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15 GAR=Garrett=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi Here is a cool Monster Turbo Junkyard buggy project....... www.smbaker.com/rail/monsterturbovw.html Before 
I’m 13 and I bought my first beetle last year, I have been working on it every chance I get and I finally got it running and driving not long ago and I have been trying to figure out how to turbocharge it and this helps out a lot, Thanks.
This might beninenof the best guys I've come across- you have made the turbo build as affordable to anyone- nothing fancy- you basically showed all how basic it can be to get it working. You're awesome.
Man this has been an extremely informative video. Thanks heaps for finding you're time for sharing this and you're knowledge. I really do look forward to turboing my bus.
Thanks for the "teaching a layman" build a rocket attitude and approach. I bumped into this video begging of the year and frankly been watching and rewatching and every session is different from the previous and gaining the courage to take a dip! Will be asking questions by&by and hope to do it b4 mid next year. Thank you thank you so much 🙏🏾
Grate video mate. I’m thinking of putting a turbo on my brothers fiat 126! 702cc and 24hp we love it. Could do with 34hp though. I’m from the UK and we can get SU carbs for penny’s over here. The turbo Mini uses an SU Carb as a blow through set up. I wasn’t aware you could use it as a draw through as well. I think we’re going to start planning our draw though build, on the Fiat soon as it’ll package up nicely. Thanks mate great vid.
I want to do a turbo setup on a beetle. VW beetles are some of the best cars ever built. They were engineered to last forever. Everything is serviceable. Everything is rebuildable. But Ferdinand Porsche engineered these cars to last forever, and he did his job very well!
First car I built was a 2332 1970 square back. Built the motor myself reading books. It was pretty fast. Second car was a 64 notch with aluminum block and helicoils for head studs. It was also a 2332, mini d heads, scat c45 cam, msd6al, pertronix drop in electric pick up dual 48idas (the real ones) turbo hats from comp engineering and a rising rate fuel Regulator. Also a fuel pump from a fi bus had to have return line back to the tank. Everything was solid mounted. My friend dropped in close ratio gears and I put locking diff and plates with swayaway axles as I snapped stock axles. I will say for drag the solid axles without CV joints are alot stronger. You can get Porsche cvs but not worth the effort. I just wanted to put this out there as I was 24yrs old and did a body off resto. I had no idea how to weld but I taught myself. It's possible to build things especially with the internet (wasnt around in my day) I ran a teo4 (i think) pulled from a mitsu at the junkyard. Best run was 7.5 in the 8th before we turned the boost up. The lost 1st gear on a hard launch. Never fixed it and ended up parting it out. I miss that car :( Anyway, I'm now older and own a gti with bigger turbo and all the goodies. It is a drivers car but nothing like an old rear engine rwd dub. They both have their place but I just wanted to say all this to tell you if you want it you will find a way. Never had formal training. I dont know how many times I pulled the flywheel to get the shims correct. GO for it
I been thinking about building a turbo vw do not know a lot about them but sounds like a fun challenge ,sub to your channel my goal for 2019 was to incease the my viewing base growing the number of channels with folks out there working on VW's . At 64 years old I enjoy learning all I can about vw bugs and buses , it increase the fun factor and experience working on these as a hobby. I use mainly CB motor parts little costly but very high end parts great people .. I thought the bottom end of the motor needed to have serious work from crank counter being modified add weights plus balancing etc--- so I stay away from them, looks like I was wrong.
man thats a nice set up... i got a 74 rat im building... 1915cc (was planning on dual 44 idf carbs as i have them... but... never know may do a single like this..) Have most of the parts apparently i need to do this as well. (have a brand new saab 9-5 t3 turbo) hmmm.... This is a great video bud... u just earned another subscription!
Glad the video has inspired you. Going to be putting together a 1915 for the old bug next ( still turbo of course). Draw through is the simplest, but since you have 44 idf's already you could go blow through too. Oldspeedsi did a blow through setup and showed a good amount of things he had to do to make it work, go check him out. Thanks for subscribing 😀
@@MattLundquistVW one more question if you dont mind. what do you have to do to the carb, if anything, to stop fuel from spilling out? or to make sure the fuel doesnt back fill into the air cleaner? (or does the pull of the turbo just suck it through regardless?)
@@brokebutfunctioninggarage on a draw through ( like my setup) the turbo sucks the fuel and air through the carb just like normal. Mods to the carb on draw through really depends on the carb you choose. On a blow through you need a fuel regulator that adds fuel pressure when it see boost. Jetting will need to be mod on both style. On IDF weber carbs you will need mod rings to help push fuel through the jet stack, and turbo E-tubes are a big help. The throttle shafts will weep fuel under boost unless you have some one add seals to the shaft, but is not a big problem if you don't care about some fuel stains on your manifold. Hope this helps answer your question, if you have more just ask.
Hi Matt ,finishing my 1600T build and I do have an 1 3/4 inch su , could i ask what needle your running for 10psi ? and approx how much power do you think you are making / 1/4 mile times?, Thanks for being informative and honest with your video
Hey Matt I’ve gotta 1974 reg beetle with a singleport 1600cc motor and was toying with the idea of turboing before I go to the army this summer. That bein said all my family are n/a motor enthusiasts only never having worked or owned turboed cars even though they’re mostly all mechanics. I don’t have the most know how but any simple complete setups you’d recommend that a new comer could handle? Or books to read cause ik how to weld and all that I just don’t even fully understand the turbos working concepts. Thanks!
Can you turn an EMPI synchronous carb into a draw through for a turbo setup? Also, how well will it work with a locked out 009 with a cb black box and wide band O2 sensor?
The problem is you can do it so many different ways and with different parts. What is available in one county is not available in another. I suggest you get the turbomania book should cost around $25, some VW online stores still have it. I think it is out of print now but has good information in it. Or save up and buy a pre-made kit from CB performance, Ron Lummus or Carcraft.
The one thing I did not hear you mention is whether this works with fuel injection? I was thinking of the FiTec. I will drive my Beetle from DC to Atlanta 2x a month. I was hoping EFI and a turbo would make the drive easy.
I have an ea82 subaru on my t3 .. i am preparing an eaton supercharger as draw through system.. i dont even know if this project works or blow the motor after install but for start if i manage to make it work do you think that i can pull out degrees to distributor to make it more safe? Due to more linear boost that superchacher gives..
Hi Matt - great video. My brother and I have a turbo build on a split bus. A guy built it for us a project and quit through the build and we’re left scratching our heads to get it to turn over and start. Any chance I could send a video or photos and have you take a look and offer some advice? Thank you!!
Since you are using a drawthrough setup you don’t need to prep the carburator for boost. Am I right? And second I have a turbo from a volvo 240 b21 that looks similar to yours. Do you think that will work?
Now I know who you hang out with. Its great to have Darrin as a neighbor. Great video. Great explanation of how it works. You answered a few of my questions. I still have a few more to ask. Would a sp be better than dp? Why a Volvo turbo? Isint most volvo most 6 cylinders engines. A vw 4 cylinder water cooled wouldn't be ideal. I'm thinking close to overall engine size ( displacement). Or even a v-tech ? Thanks again for the topic. Hope to see you in lakeland at the show in a few weeks
I wish Darrin was that close to me lol. He lives about 40mile north west of me, so I don't get over to see him as much as I would like. Now to answer your question. ----- for HP a dual port is better than a single port turbo or not. The reason I went single port was just to be different and I wanted all my power under 4500 RPM. ------The turbo from the Volvo is a Garrett t3 which is used on 4cylinders and small 6cylinders. The reason I used it, is that you can put carbon seals in them for draw through. The turbos on newer 4cylinder car use dynamic seals and can not be used in a draw through setup. Hope this helps. I hope I can make it to Lakeland. Not sure if we have thing for the kids that weekend.
Hi, I am building a vw 2027cc turbo t4 project and the turbo location will be very low (slightly higher than crankcase level). Where would you recommend me to be able to generate the recirculation of the turbo lubrication oil to the engine without the need for an electric pump, so that it only works by gravity? Thank you
Matt curious, I have been looking at putting a turbo on my Sand Rail with a Type 1 1600 engine, need a little extra HP for some of these sand hills. I was looking at getting the Holley Sniper EFI, but was informed of the Super Sniper that allows for the blow-through vs draw-through. Do you have any comments to this type of setup?
The super sniper would be the way to go as you could make it blow through and place the turbo almost anywhere you want. Also you can use a cheap modern turbo as you will not need a carbon seal in blow through. Another advantage is you can run an intercooler in blow through. Draw through is simple if you have a turbo with a carbon seal. But cheap carbon seal turbos are getting hard to find. My vote with the EFI is a blow through set-up. Hope this helps you.
Great info. I got most of a blow thru set up already. Single 40 IDF. What's a good turbo to make it fun. Like a .43 ? K03? Thank you for this video. It really helps
vw67 beetle81 ko3 will work. Or a t-3 they are good up to the 2L size motors and can work on 1600cc also. If you never plan on making your motor bigger then a T25 may be a better option.
well it looks like I stepped in it again I picked up a GT1752S from an ebay seller maXpeedingrods It is a good looking replacement package for a Saab 2.0. And now the rub, I don't know without taking it apart if it has the carbon seal I need for a draw through system on my VW or for that matter if I can even get one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's highly doubtful that it has a carbon seal. I'm not sure if one can be put in. Call g-popshop they should be able to answer that. If it can not be adapted to a carbon seal you could just build a blow through setup. Cost is a little more but you can mount an intercooler in it and mount the turbo almost anywhere.
Hey whats up man . I got 2054cc worh a 4 barreel t3. But now i need to tune. Im gettimg a lot of popping and wondeeing where to start. Im a newbie. And i thi k mine is a draw throught.
Popping is usually a lean condition. The first thing you need to do is get a wideband air/ fuel gauge, the AEM one is cheap and good. Next make sure your timing is around 25* full advance, this is a good starting point and the plugs are gapped correctly. Then drive it watching the AFR gauge ( on a closed road of course), you want it to read in the 12:1 range on boost. If it is making boost and 14:1 or higher it is way to lean and you need to stop and jet it richer. It's a trial and error deal. Also you intake manifold might need some heat if this problem is at idle or just off idle. Most four barrel VW setup use engine oil to heat the carb so it doesn't freeze up. Hope this helps
It will raise air temperature when it compresses the air ( builds boost) but you don't drive under boost all the time. For most of your driving you still will be on vacuum not building additional heat. The placement of the turbo will affect the how hot the engine gets ( i.e. turbo in the engine compartment with the deck lid full closed) more than anything else
Sometimes they need preheat to the carb depending on your climate and carb. Usually four barrel draw through manifolds for street cars have port for engine oil to heat the carb. On a blow through setup with dual carbs preheat is not needed. Hope this helps
I have a 2180 with a 38/38 EMPI synchronous carb. I already have a T3/T4 tubro, wate gate with 7lb and 13lb springs, oil feed and return lines and few other little goodies. Arw there any suggestions you would give me with this setup for a draw through and would you suggest going to an electronic ignition over the standard distributor? Also, what O2 sensor would you suggest?
The thing I would suggest for the carb is to boost reference the power valve; so that under boost the mixture is enriched. Made a video of how to do it on a progress which has the same architecture th-cam.com/video/3PKQY4bO3fA/w-d-xo.html As for the distributor I would use a 009 if you have one already, and mod it to limit the advance to 25* made a video on that also th-cam.com/video/loA_MyJH19U/w-d-xo.html . Then I would just add a cheap points conversation kit. We did these mod on a friends baja with a 1600 and a T3 turbo and it would hual the mail at 15 pounds. That 2180 should be a lot of fun with some boost. Make sure that T3/4 has a carbon seal as you are going draw through, if it is a eBay/ Amazon special it will not have one. There is a company that sells the carbon seal conversion kit ( backing plate and all) for those on eBay for around $160. For an 02 gauge the AEM wideband has worked well for me, one of the cheaper ones at around $200. Get a wideband as it will make tuning a breeze. Hope this helps and thanks for subing👍
@@MattLundquistVW would I be better off getting another carb than trying to mod the EMPI? As far as the turbo goes, it's a TO4E .57, I will look into the carbon seal.
@@HaulinBass The carb mod is very simple to do. Most carbs are going to require some modifications and tuning. The only one that I have heard of the doesn't is a Holley 3310 four barrel.
That really depends on how hard you push it and what it is to start with. Typically you can expect about double the power at 15 psi of boost. My single port stroker is putting down about 130 according to drag race calculators ( don't have a dyno) @ 8psi. A friend has a 1600 DP with a 100 cam and has pushed #20 of boost and it is much faster than my car. But on a stock 1600 DP with #10 of boost it should make a true 85-100 hp. You got to remember a 1600 only had 46 DIN HP to begin with, and most are wore out now. 10 psi of boost is a good safe street setting as gas can very from station to station. 100 HP (flywheel ) is good to get you in the 14's and 130hp can get you in the 13's. Now there are people going much faster on 1600, but push them much farther on the boost. R.A.D Rodney Adams has a 1600 EFI turbo that is going 11's but has big valve heads and aftermarket cam. There is a guy in Sweden that has a 1641 EFI turbo with big heads and cam putting down 340 HP to the wheels and runs 10's and is a street car. But for a normal 1600 I would expect 90hp at around 10 psi.
Hey I was wondering if maybe I could ask you a few questions regarding forced induction on a beetle. Long story short but when I was 7, I was obsessed with herbie and my parents decided to buy a 71 beetle for me and my grandpa to work on. But the thing was an absolute rust bucket and I never had the money to fix it right. The whole frame is pretty much gone so I decided I’m going to build a tube frame and make what’s left the the motor and front beam into a sand rail. This is not the part I’m having a hard time with, I’m a fabricator/machinist at my own shop so the frame/suspension will be a nice side project. My main problem is I know very little about these Aircooled vw engines, my dads a diesel mechanic and is pretty good at figuring things out but this is over both our heads at the moment. My main concern is that I want to supercharge it but I’m not sure where to even start. I’d like to run an amr500 supercharger and maybe a Weber 48 side draft. But I know both about jetting for a boosted engine. I’d also like to do some stuff to strengthen the engine for the extra power but I don’t know where to start there either. I plan on doing some stuff like an electric fuel pump, maybe a magnaspark crank trigger so I can tune the ignition around the boost. I would appreciate any advice you have!
So if you want to use what you have, here's what I suggest. - New stainless steel exhaust valves at a minimum for the heads ( exhaust valves break easy on boosted VWs ) - HD single valve springs at minimum dual would be better - mild cam shaft E100, C35, web 218 - home port job on the heads and manifolds - stock rods 311b and stock piston are fine for 10 psi and under. Just gap the rings. - 8 dowel the crank and flywheel ( add 4 dowel pins to the crank) - Add a oil filter ( could be a filter pump or full flow) - HD rocker shafts - chro-moly push rods - and a good pressure plate and disc. - the arm 500 will work good with a 1600 but will be small if you ever make the motor bigger. - the 48 Weber is way to big for your setup, I would find something else. - as for jetting get a wideband afr gauge. It will make you a jetting wizard . - If you plan on going EFI then go crank trigger. If not save the money and get the CB black box, it's fully programable. Now if you find the heads are junk ( cracks by the valves and plugs) This is what I would put together 1679cc *Cb Pancho's cut for 90.5 dual springs *AA 88 slip case machine head pistons. And the same parts as above. There is a gentleman with that combo on the samba that is making 200+ at the tire in a fiberglass buggy on a turbo EFI E85 setup. But he has lots of time in tuning it. Try to aim for a Max of 10psi for now. Once you get it dialed in enjoy. Then one day you can start to creap up on the power. Hope this helps and sorry for taking so long to get back to you. If you have other questions just ask.
Matt Lundquist thank you! A few years ago I put a full flow on and added a oil filter and oil cooler. I was looking online and I might go with pachino heads just because the price doesn’t seem to bad. Would there be any machine work needed to instal those (like clearance) or would it be fine the way it comes? Also do you think the stock crank will hold up to the added pressure of boost? And how would you go about retarding the timing when boost builds? (I think I’ve heard people say each pound of boost needs 2 or so degrees less timing) I guess if I used a programmable ignition it could be programmed to do that, but how would you do it with stock ignition? Also would a 40mm carb be a better choice
The heads will work out of the box ( just clean them well). As for ignition, simple and cheap is to limit the advance on a 009 distributor. I had a video on this and it is simple. You just move the stops for the centrifugal advance half the distance. And then set timing to 25* BTDC max at like 3k rpm. This works well for draw through setup. Blow through setups like advance when on vacuum, so the black box would be needed. A 40mm carb is a better choice.
Is there a boost difference between the 2 setup of turbo? And another question does 7psi is much for stock vw motor?(im watching you from latin american💯)
Both styles of systems should produce approximately the same amount of boost. Usually the blow through carb setup will produce slightly more boost before the carb. But if your wastegate signal is at the manifold on both setups and set for 7psi then that is what it should make. A stock engine in good condition should have no problems with 7psi of boost, most people run 10psi as that is a good stopping point before more money needs to be spent( ignition). I would recommend some parts to help make it happen with boost. #1 single HD valve springs and chromoly retainers. #2 HD pushrods chromoly or aluminum. But not steel ( very heavy). #3 bolt together rocker shafts. #4 only if motor is already apart 8 dowel crank and flywheel. I Hope this helps in your turbo adventure my latin American friend 🙂
The SU worked real good for as simple as it was, just have to learn where the needle needs filing to richen it up. That motor had I beam rods which they say take boost better than H beams, but H beams are better at taking high RPM. But at less than 10 psi of boost it doesn't matter.
Do you know if the vw1600 engine with turbo can sustain around 150hp for a long time (say, up to 5 hours nonstop) at low rpms (between 3000 and 4500 rpms)?
Driving on boost for 5 hours non stop it would over heat. Turbos build boost when there is a load on the motor. Driving down the road around 60-70 MPH is a light load and should not produce boost. But towing a RV trailer up a hill trying to go 60mph would be a large load and would produce boost and quick over heat the motor. If you keep periods of boost to small intervals ( like going up on ramps to freeways) and drive long distance ( like on a freeway) and have a light load ( one or two passages in a bug) a turbo 1600 will live a long life. Now take that same motor and put it in a late bay window bus and load it with camping gear and it will not have a very long life. It's all about how hard to has to work. When it works harder it makes boost which makes heat.
What carb are you using here? I might have missed it in the explaination. Also, I am thinking to do the same setup on dual port 1600cc headers, will the same turbo work fine? Thanks for the video!
Kevin water/meth injection is great stuff and would work well. But as with everything in life it adds cost and something else to fill up. Most people just want to get in and go and not even check the oil LoL. It would work but I don't think VW people would want to pay the $400 price tag unless they are building a top level turbo car. That is the main reason for a limited ignition advance ( or locked out) it's the cheap way out.
I was dreaming with that simplicity. I was wondering, could i use the original fuel pump ? Does the fuel consumption increases more than the other mount? Fuel consumption is an important thing for considering to me, I just want to make my roadtrips more comfortable. I wish it only drinks heavy fuel only with heavy foot, not cruising along. Another question, i am planing to use twin turbo setup with two carbs due to its separated intakes. I have the possibility to use Volkswagen TSI 1.0 turbochargers, but, i don't think it has carbon seals, is it really necessary for a daily use with this draw through configuration? Thanks a lot! I really really appreciate your video and your kindness answering to our doubts!
A stock fuel pump can work for lower hp setups. Fuel consumption will depend on how well you have it jetted. Usually a blow through carburator or EFI setup get better fuel mileage than draw through. I highly doubt that the TSI 1.0 turbo has a carbon seal. Carbon seals don't last as long as dynamic seal and auto companies made the switch to dynamic seals in the mid 90's. A dynamic seal is like a piston ring and seals best when under pressure ( boost). When a vacuum is applied ( closing the throttle plates on a draw through setup) oil can be pulled through the gap in the seal, cause oil smoke on deceleration. Although a twin turbo sounds cool and would have a wow factor in looks. It would be over complicated and not make any more power than a single turbo. I think the TSI 1.0 makes 100~ ish hp stock , which is plenty for a stock 1600. Sorry for the late response, hope this helps
@@MattLundquistVWow, don't worry, wasn't late. Now i understand why it smokes, the comparison with the piston rings made it perfectly clear. I didn't get it before. Thanks! Actually I don't need more than 70, 80hp. I wish i could make it a 1.8L or greater. Would solve my issues, but prices are 3 to 4 times higher than turbocharging a 1.6L. Saddly :( So, to use draw through configuration I need a good carbon sealed turbo. I'm gonna call some stores and see what they got. Now that I note the difference it will be a lot easier to look for it. About the TSI and the twins idea: Here in Brazil we got lots of these tiny turbos and they are the cheaper ones! That's why i'm looking at them. WelI, can use just one. The reason i was thinking at twins is that TSI turbos are so tiny that i'm afraid it couldn't handle a 1.6l displacement. I imagine maybe too much counterpressure on exhaust, or maybe temperature too high. But I got no experience or practical knowledge of turbocharging at all, so i really dont know if it would cause any harm to the turbo or to this especific engine. I note that i meant fuel mileage rather than consumption itself on the other text, my bad! :) Thanks for understanding and for all the help!
A turbo with an A/R of .42/.48 works good on a 1600 and leaves some room to grow if you ever move up in displacement. A Garrett T 3 from an old Volvo works good. Not sure of the wheel size, they are small under 50mm on the intake side and same on the exit on the turbine side. Hope this helps
Hello Joe Rangel, you would make it a blow through setup. That is where the turbo compressor is before the throttle body. The stock VW beetle EFI ecu from the 70's would have to be replaced with an aftermarket unit like a megasquirt or something like that. I don't know how tuneable the later Mexican ecu's are.
Okay I need help again lol. I used a Saab turbo, I cannot get ANY boost out of the thing. Everything is setup correctly I have had multiple people look at it that have a lot of knowledge on turbos. The only thing they can come up with is that I used a turbo from an EFI Saab and I'm trying to use it on a draw through setup. The turbo came off on a 2 liter and I'm using a 1.9 so it should be the correct size for the motor. I can't find anything online about what turbos you can use for our setup. Can you please let me know what your turbo is off of or what other turbos you know will work for sure with our setup. I'm trying to get this on the road asap and if I need to buy a new turbo that will work I want to get it on its way! Thank you again
It should build boost regardless if it was for EFI or not. My first thought is your wastegate may not be closed or you have a massive boost leak ( should hear that).Also check your throttle, if it is not going wide open then it will affect how much boost you make. John's baja had the throttle problem at first would only build 3#, then we found that the carb would move and only go about half throttle. Once we fix that by mounting it more solid, it made 15#. The only problem with using a turbo off a newer EFI car is the seal, it can pull oil when you let off the throttle. There use to be a dune buggy website that listed all the factory carbon seal turbos and which cars they came on ( was all late 80's - early 90's cars). Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the site, it was from the early 2000's so it may not be around anymore. What you have should work, just needs some tinkering with. If you swap it out you could do the cheap eBay turbo with the carbon seal kit as the 1915 should run it , but I would find the problem with what you have first. Here are the things I would check on your set up. 1. Check and make sure the turbo spins freely ( I know it sounds dumb, but some welding wire can lock the turbine up ask me know I know lol). 2. Make sure the wastegate is seated all the way. 3. Make sure you are getting wide open throttle when you have someone push the pedal. 4. Look for exhaust and intake leaks, if the exhaust has a bad leak it will not spin the turbo as fast as it can. Hope this helps
@@MattLundquistVW thank you for responding so quickly. I know that I don't have any major exhaust leaks I've put my hand around every connection while at 4k rpm and there's nothing. I have the turbo sitting right ontop of the manifold with 2 clamps and a rubber connector and there isn't any leakage from the boost side of things. I took the tailpipe off the turbo and could see the shaft spinning and saw it go up and down in speed with rpm speed and I made sure to hold the wastegate completely shut too and still nothing. I tested the gauge with an air compressor and saw it go up and down with pressure, I also texted the wastegate actuator the same way and watched it push and pull. I opened up the turbo and everything looks really good inside. I think I will go ahead and order an eBay turbo and just try it and hope if it doesn't work they will let me return it if I don't damage it. Like I said my buddies which are pretty much turbo experts had no explanation for it other than it came off an EFI but I haven't found any proof online of that effecting anyone else's. I tried to find a website like that with a list of turbos that were factory draw through but no luck with that either. I will continue the search and hopefully someone works eventually. My neighbors aren't getting too happy hearing me hold it wide open in the yard all weekend 😂. I took it down the road and it ran great but had no power difference at all, wide open but I will try to check if it's actually making it wide open while I'll driving it down the road or if the carb is moving. One of my friends suggested that maybe the exhaust isn't restrictive enough so it's not holding pressure making it now spin quick enough but at 6k rpm I still couldn't even get 1 psi
@@johnsparks8572 you don't want restrictions in the exhaust, the turbo is a restriction it self. A restrictive muffler can also keep it from building boost, but not to the extent you are saying. When you drive it what gear are you in ? Turbos need load to build boost, so free reving it when it is parked is useless. Check the gauge when you are in second gear or higher, VWs are geared so low that in first they just don't load the turbo enough to build boost in first gear. Also check your timing, about 25* BTDC total is a good starting point. Also check the plugs to see if it is way to lean or rich. I suggest you get the turbo mainia book from cb performance. Lots of good information in there. Your friends are trying to help and that's cool, but they are giving you lots of bad information. So that book should help you understand how the system works. The turbo is just an air compressor in all reality it doesn't care if it was on on an EFI car or carburetor setup. The turbos that came on Volvo's and four cylinder mustangs and Mercury from the early 90 to late 80's had carbon seal. Also the Dodge turbo cars of that same vintage had carbon seal. I have also hear that Mitsubishi eclipse up until around 95 had or could be converted to carbon seal. The website that had that list is no longer around unfortunately. Was called dune-buggy.com and now it's a dead link.
@@MattLundquistVW alright I will definitely check out the book, I checked the spark plugs they seem clean but not running to lean, I ran the car through all 4 gears absolutely floored, but the cable could definitely be pulling the carb closer not giving any load I guess. The acceleration seemed the same though and I would think it would get worse if I wasn't actually getting full throttle now I set the timing pretty close to 30. That's exactly what I was thinking too, other than the carbon seal they all pretty much work the same and didn't make sense to me. I'm gonna put it back together tomorrow and try it again, I ordered a new t25 turbo from eBay. $105 if I can get it to work tomorrow though I'll cancel the order. I should be able to get it.
Wondering if you can help me with a bit more info I been thinking of doing this to my big but not a lot of info on TH-cam about it till I found your video it help thanks
how laggy is a t3t4 turbo on a 1600? the motor in my car is not stock but i have yet to finish my build and the t3t4 is the turbo i am using. i have a 1641 with ported heads, cam, and ratio rockers. also going to boost through a weber 32/36
Pretty laggy. By the time it really lights off you are at the end of the RPM range. For some reason they really struggle in the 0 - 10 psi range, once you jump that gap they come on like a gang buster. For drag racing you can use a two step limited to over come this ( will spool the turbo because you are at WOT and the exhaust flow is high). But on the street not much else you can do. T3/T4 are really for people that plan on running higher boost (15-20#), a smaller T/3 will spool so much faster and preform better in the 5 - 10 psi range on small motors like 1641cc. If you already have it use it, as you can always step down since they use the same exhaust flange.
This is a video of a stock 1600 with a T3/4 blowing through a set of 44 idf's. Notice how long it takes to get to 5# . Now of course more mod's like you have will help. th-cam.com/video/vYMgb9M3U7U/w-d-xo.html
And now for a T3. This is on my 2220 single port when the clutch would not hold it ( load = boost and a slippery clutch makes no load) But notice how much faster it come up on boost compared to my friends 2110 big valve dual port. Hope this all helps you and others. th-cam.com/video/lO2zYR2X9_c/w-d-xo.html
I like the idea and price of fitec. Unfortunately I do not have any direct experience with it. I do have a friend that has the go street 400hp setup on a 2.8 gm that he uses on a fiero for chump car racing. He likes it a lot and has had no problem so far. The cool thing is you could use that setup in draw through or blow through. There is a guy that makes a whole kit for vw's. Here is his website rodneyadamsdesigns.com/products/fitech-efi-kits/
Dear friend, good afternoon. My name is Eduardo and I'm from Brazil. I'm building a 1600 turbo, single port injected, with K16 turbo. Here it is customary to use two bodies and many say that single port is not good. I would like your opinion if it would be better single port or dual port for my case and what differences of power. Street car to accelerate. Thankful.
Hello Eduardo the single port is a good head, but it is NOT a performance head. With dual throttle body injection and single port heads there maybe fuel distribution problems, as you cannot inject the fuel directly into each port like you can with dual port heads. The dual port heads flow more air stock than modified single port heads. Dual port heads are great for a turbo 1600. I would guess that power would be 10-15% better on a stock dual port than a single port, due to better air flow. For your twin throttle body EFI turbo setup the dual ports are a better choice. With that said I like things that are different, that's why I used the single port heads. Everyone runs dual ports and the single ports take a beating a little better than dual ports also. Since my setup was a draw through carburator the fuel distribution problem was not a factor. For your set up I would use some dual port head with a home port job and some dual springs. I will try to find a link to an article on how to home port your heads for you. Hope this help you on your build, sounds like a fun project.
The carb is a SU HS4. It has a needle that is tapered that moves up and down depending on air flow through the carb. There are no jets , to change the fuel mixture you change the shape of the needle.
Matt Lundquist You mentioned also about motorcycle carburetors? That can be used? Is it jetless as well? What carbs are those? Thank you greatly appreciated 🤙🏿
@@lelogumby7122 If you are going draw through turbo you can use any carb you like. People have use Weber side draft carbs, mikuni, S&S, SU carburetors, Holley carbs even the stock solex carburetor. They all can work when you get it tuned correctly ( a wideband Air Fuel ratio gauge is invaluable). With blow through your options are less, Weber ,dellorto, EFI and some four barrels are commonly used.
@@lelogumby7122 The SU is kind of unique in that it has the needle as it's only source for fuel metering. Most motor cycle carbs have an idle jet and a needle. Some have a high speed and idle jet with a needle. In all reality the SU is the simplest carb because it only has the needle for fuel mixture, but it is also harder to get tuned. The reason is the needle can share two parts of the operating range of the engine. For example idle and low speed running (cruising RPM), these two spots require different fuel demand but can share the same spot on the needle. So you have to compromise, my idle is very rich so that my cruising fuel mixture is optimal. You have to find where the needle is at at a given load and RPM to tune it. It is a game of trial and error with the SU. If I did it again I would get a carb that at least had an idle jet.
Scotty C I chose the CB 2236 cam as it was similar in spec to the Engle FK 65, which is the range I wanted. I have never ran a CB cam before, but have heard good things about then ( not going flat). Plus it is a cam that CB recommends for turbo use. It idles amazingly well even with the single carb, it has power until 5000 ish rpm. Which works well with the single port heads and single springs. Plus you can use ratio rockers on it as well. I was skeptical as CB performance does not give you much info on their cams. But seeing that it was so close to an F K 65 I decided to try it, also it was cheaper than Engle cam and I was ordering parts from CBperformance so that tip my decision for the CB cam. It has worked very well in this combination, very street able, great low end power and exceeds the # I wanted in the 1/4 mile (13.94@97 mph). If it was a dual port in my combination I may have wanted a little more cam timing, but it is a single port and it works great. To me this would be a good cam for mild dual carb 1600-1915cc motors that do a lot of driving I.E. daily drivers and cruisers.
i didn't know CB recommended it for turbos. as for not much information on the cam, i find all VW cams rarely come with valve timing events published anywhere on the web and what i'd really like to see are lift, velocity and acceleration graphs to go with the timing events. so what do you run in the 8th mile?
Scotty C yeah most of the time your lucky to get a description, like good low end cam lol. It runs 8.98- 9.0 in the eighth mile on 10 psi of boost. It's slightly slower now with the lower compression and lower boost 9.0-9.10's @7psi of boost.
seems that it didn't slow much with a 3 psi reduction. i used to run about 10.4 or so in the 1/8th with my '74. it, like the 1745 i'm working on, is built around the karcey miler camshaft. haven't started it in over 24 years now. ah, one of these days.
Scotty C I did some head work when I lowered the compression so that helped. It lost some of the down low fun by taking the compression out of it. But I can run crap gas now and plan to go back to 10 psi one day.
A carbon seal makes 360° contact sealing the compressor from the center housing ( where the oil is). When you let off the throttle the intake will have a high amount of vacuum. The throttle is pre turbo on a draw through making the compressor under a vacuum also. If you do not have a carbon seal it will pull the oil out of the center housing. The dynamic seal is made for blow through where the throttle is post turbo, It is like a piston ring. It seals when pressure is applied but will not seal under vacuum. On a blow through there is never a high amount of vacuum in the system as the throttle blade is down stream of the turbocharger. Hopefully this helps
@@MattLundquistVW It looks like I need to take my unit apart and see exactly what I have. Would you have any source suggestions for these seals? Thanks for the great info!
@@downtimegarage605 Google is your friend lol. I remember there was a website that had all the part numbers of factory carbon seal turbos. It was on a dune buggy forum if I remember correctly, sorry I don't remember which website.
Hey Matt I adopted a 1971 beetle. I believe its a 2175 and i need some help . i am?trying to work out the bugs ( no pun intended) i have 2 brass ports coming out of the valve covers and i connected them but now i have oil coming out of the crank seal. I understand turbo basics but am having a hard time with the ass kicking im am bein given on this beetle.
The two brass ports are breathers. They need to be vented to a breather box. If you connected them together it will cause pressure to build in the crank case and oil will come out from behind the pulley. CSP, CB performance, Berg and Ron lummus racing sell quality ones. With larger displacement vw engines you have more swept volume pushing the oil mist around in the crank case. Lots more than vw ever intended, so the common practice is to add a breather box that connects both valve covers, and the stock breather ( by the oil filler) and to the fuel pump mount if an electric pump is being used. Hope this helps
Matt i VERY VERRRY MUCH appreciate your advice. I undid the connection and no more blow thru from crankcase gasket.. I have a couple more issues. I know knowledge isn't free ..plz tell me if i could consult you with this project. My ignition seems to be an issue as well..it does run but I dont feel it's running right . there was no expense spared as far as i can tell on this motor work.
I do have substantial pics amd can even video chat. I would appreciate a few minutes to get this thing running right. Shes almost ready for paint..thank you
@@MajorKlozeoff So I would need to know more about what you do know of this engine. What type of ignition you have, carbs you have, camshaft you are running, what type of heads and compression ratio? I know you did not build it and may not have all that info but it all works together. Typically air-cooled VW like around 28-32° BTDC full advance with centrifugal distributors with around 10° at idle. Plug gap depends on the quality of ignition you have, you might want to check the gap and plug wires ( have found them not connected some times) you can start with a small gap .024' and open them up until you see a diminished return. Also clogged idle jets are a common problem that will cause idle and transition problems. The idle circuit goes from idle to around 3000 RPM, right where most of your driving is.
@@MattLundquistVW sorry sir for the late response as other projects ( $ paying) had to be finished Is there an email i can send you to allow you to see my plight?
The turbo is cooled by the oil. For normal operation where you are not building boost all the time this is sufficient, if you were pulling heavy load up hill ( building boost) the obviously this would end in disaster.
@@tylerdavidson3607 not needed for occasional use. If you continually boost an air cooled VW for long periods of time it will cook the heads as they are not designed for that uses.
Unfortunately you would probably have to take it apart to find out. But if it came off a newer car (mid 90's and up) it more than likely does not have a carbon seal. If it is a cheap turbo off eBay or Amazon it will not have a carbon seal.
@@evertonnturbocharger2762 are you asking what pressure I'm running the turbo at? Currently it is at 10psi. I think we have a slight language difference 😞
Sorry man not in the fabrication business. This video is to encourage people to build it them selves. Harbor freight has some cheap welders and you can modify a standard header for turbo use. Give it a try, it will be rewarding to do it your self. If you don't have time check out CB preformance or Carcraft they can make anything you want.
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7301t.htm If you already have dual carbs this is a good way to go. Don't use a T3/ T4 chinese turbo, they take for ever to spool up on a vw; especially if it is stock displacement. A T25 or t28 would work good on a small displacement VW. Also you could run a center mount weber carb and keep the cost down.
@@hobohamster1808 then a T25 would be a good choice. If the motor is solid then you could turbo now and up grade the bottom end later. The only things I would up grade now would be the valve train. C/M push rods, bolt together rocker shafts and HD single valve springs. You may find that a turbo 1600 is more power than you need.
@@MattLundquistVW yeah thats my concern. I'm very knowledgeable when it comes to naturally aspirated engine and can make hp easy but the turbo set up its my next step. check out my vids and Subcribe and share I'll do tje same. Thanks
The carbon seal keep the oil from being pulled into the intake system when you close the throttle on a draw through setup. When the carburetor butterflies close the sudden increase of high vacuum will pull the oil past a dynamic turbo seal. The only true way is to disassemble a turbo. If you're using a junkyard turbo most 80 and early 90s cars had carbon seals. There is a list on the internet that shows part numbers for most t3 turbos that came with carbon steel. On more modern cars have dynamic seals as there a blow through setup from the factory anyways. With the blow through setup you do not need a carbon seal and you can use a dynamic seal which lasts longer than the carbon steel. That is why most cars now come with dynamic seal as they live longer. There are companies that sell kits to change it from dynamic to carbon
I really really cannot understand why would anyone want to do turbo charging a tiny Low compression vw engine ? Isn’t these cars designed to be to be the most easiest and Low maintain cars that anyone can repair it at home?
I got this information below
from a forum, not my first hand knowledge.
Here is your shopping list for your local Junkyard.
Find the turbo parts on the cheap. We had a guy in the WVVW club that used to race a junkyard turbo Baja.
It was ugly to look at but, it flew. He loved to run against mustangs at the Southside Track.
My personal favorite is the Garret TB0335. Popular on all the Shelby Turbo front wheel drives.
BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
GMC Syclone/Typhoon 4.3L Mitsu TDO6 17C/10cm2
CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04 13g
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H 14b
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle)
DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H 14b
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04 13g
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5
MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water)
MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359
MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04 13g
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H 14b
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooled) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooled 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321
VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15
GAR=Garrett=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi
Here is a cool Monster Turbo Junkyard buggy project.......
www.smbaker.com/rail/monsterturbovw.html
Before

Did you have to gap the Piston rings for boost? Could I turbocharge my vw without gaping them?
@@carlgenis514 You should gap the rings for boost. But if you keep the boost low (5-10 psi) then you should be fine.
I’m 13 and I bought my first beetle last year, I have been working on it every chance I get and I finally got it running and driving not long ago and I have been trying to figure out how to turbocharge it and this helps out a lot, Thanks.
I've never been a turbo guy myself, but I've got a curiosity. You've taught me some stuff here today. Thanks for this!
Once you go with boost you will wonder why you ever settled for a NA motor.
This might beninenof the best guys I've come across- you have made the turbo build as affordable to anyone- nothing fancy- you basically showed all how basic it can be to get it working. You're awesome.
Wow....thank you for sharing. I'm 53 years old, and have been into vws since I was 15 yo....I learned a whole lot from you .
Man this has been an extremely informative video. Thanks heaps for finding you're time for sharing this and you're knowledge. I really do look forward to turboing my bus.
Glade this was helpful.
Thanks for the "teaching a layman" build a rocket attitude and approach.
I bumped into this video begging of the year and frankly been watching and rewatching and every session is different from the previous and gaining the courage to take a dip!
Will be asking questions by&by and hope to do it b4 mid next year.
Thank you thank you so much 🙏🏾
A query Matt, does one need to do any thing on the carburetor??
Great explanation and information. Thanks for sharing. BIG THUMBS UP
Wicked video I appreciate information like this. Something a guy can actually afford to do without a summit racing shipment showing up 😆🤙
Best video I've found on a draw though set up I got a 66 ghia I'm gonna do a turbo build on
Very well explained, thanks for the info
Grate video mate. I’m thinking of putting a turbo on my brothers fiat 126!
702cc and 24hp we love it. Could do with 34hp though.
I’m from the UK and we can get SU carbs for penny’s over here. The turbo Mini uses an SU Carb as a blow through set up. I wasn’t aware you could use it as a draw through as well.
I think we’re going to start planning our draw though build, on the Fiat soon as it’ll package up nicely. Thanks mate great vid.
Thanks for guidance sir 👍. I'm working on turbo-ing my VW1200 motor
Great informative video!!
Good job. I think I will give Turbo a try.
I want to do a turbo setup on a beetle. VW beetles are some of the best cars ever built. They were engineered to last forever. Everything is serviceable. Everything is rebuildable. But Ferdinand Porsche engineered these cars to last forever, and he did his job very well!
Very informative thanks.
Awesome stuff
Great video I’m building a turbo motor with a RLR Holley four barrel and hope I can fit it in the bay.
tk you for information! appreciate!
Awesome video. Very informative. Thank you.
Thank you!
First car I built was a 2332 1970 square back. Built the motor myself reading books. It was pretty fast. Second car was a 64 notch with aluminum block and helicoils for head studs. It was also a 2332, mini d heads, scat c45 cam, msd6al, pertronix drop in electric pick up dual 48idas (the real ones) turbo hats from comp engineering and a rising rate fuel Regulator. Also a fuel pump from a fi bus had to have return line back to the tank. Everything was solid mounted. My friend dropped in close ratio gears and I put locking diff and plates with swayaway axles as I snapped stock axles. I will say for drag the solid axles without CV joints are alot stronger. You can get Porsche cvs but not worth the effort. I just wanted to put this out there as I was 24yrs old and did a body off resto. I had no idea how to weld but I taught myself. It's possible to build things especially with the internet (wasnt around in my day) I ran a teo4 (i think) pulled from a mitsu at the junkyard. Best run was 7.5 in the 8th before we turned the boost up. The lost 1st gear on a hard launch. Never fixed it and ended up parting it out. I miss that car :(
Anyway, I'm now older and own a gti with bigger turbo and all the goodies. It is a drivers car but nothing like an old rear engine rwd dub. They both have their place but I just wanted to say all this to tell you if you want it you will find a way. Never had formal training. I dont know how many times I pulled the flywheel to get the shims correct. GO for it
Sounds like those cars were a blast.
I been thinking about building a turbo vw do not know a lot about them but sounds like a fun challenge ,sub to your channel my goal for 2019 was to incease the my viewing base growing the number of channels with folks out there working on VW's . At 64 years old I enjoy learning all I can about vw bugs and buses , it increase the fun factor and experience working on these as a hobby. I use mainly CB motor parts little costly but very high end parts great people .. I thought the bottom end of the motor needed to have serious work from crank counter being modified add weights plus balancing etc--- so I stay away from them, looks like I was wrong.
man thats a nice set up... i got a 74 rat im building... 1915cc (was planning on dual 44 idf carbs as i have them... but... never know may do a single like this..) Have most of the parts apparently i need to do this as well. (have a brand new saab 9-5 t3 turbo) hmmm.... This is a great video bud... u just earned another subscription!
Glad the video has inspired you. Going to be putting together a 1915 for the old bug next ( still turbo of course). Draw through is the simplest, but since you have 44 idf's already you could go blow through too. Oldspeedsi did a blow through setup and showed a good amount of things he had to do to make it work, go check him out. Thanks for subscribing 😀
@@MattLundquistVW one more question if you dont mind. what do you have to do to the carb, if anything, to stop fuel from spilling out? or to make sure the fuel doesnt back fill into the air cleaner? (or does the pull of the turbo just suck it through regardless?)
@@brokebutfunctioninggarage on a draw through ( like my setup) the turbo sucks the fuel and air through the carb just like normal. Mods to the carb on draw through really depends on the carb you choose. On a blow through you need a fuel regulator that adds fuel pressure when it see boost. Jetting will need to be mod on both style. On IDF weber carbs you will need mod rings to help push fuel through the jet stack, and turbo E-tubes are a big help. The throttle shafts will weep fuel under boost unless you have some one add seals to the shaft, but is not a big problem if you don't care about some fuel stains on your manifold. Hope this helps answer your question, if you have more just ask.
@@MattLundquistVW Thanks bud, I'll let you know how it goes lol...
the wrap look great
it looks really good, fine setup👍👍nice job.
which turbo and carburetor have you used.
Hi there could you please do another video, but record the engine turbo piping from different angles. Good explanation video. Thank you.
Look up my videos on building a 2220cc turbo single port, I show the header in one of the videos
Crazy
Hi Matt ,finishing my 1600T build and I do have an 1 3/4 inch su , could i ask what needle your running for 10psi ? and approx how much power do you think you are making / 1/4 mile times?, Thanks for being informative and honest with your video
Show 👍
Hey Matt I’ve gotta 1974 reg beetle with a singleport 1600cc motor and was toying with the idea of turboing before I go to the army this summer. That bein said all my family are n/a motor enthusiasts only never having worked or owned turboed cars even though they’re mostly all mechanics. I don’t have the most know how but any simple complete setups you’d recommend that a new comer could handle? Or books to read cause ik how to weld and all that I just don’t even fully understand the turbos working concepts. Thanks!
Can you turn an EMPI synchronous carb into a draw through for a turbo setup? Also, how well will it work with a locked out 009 with a cb black box and wide band O2 sensor?
can you make a detailed introduction list and part list that would be vary amazing
The problem is you can do it so many different ways and with different parts. What is available in one county is not available in another. I suggest you get the turbomania book should cost around $25, some VW online stores still have it. I think it is out of print now but has good information in it. Or save up and buy a pre-made kit from CB performance, Ron Lummus or Carcraft.
The one thing I did not hear you mention is whether this works with fuel injection? I was thinking of the FiTec. I will drive my Beetle from DC to Atlanta 2x a month. I was hoping EFI and a turbo would make the drive easy.
draw thru is the best
I have an ea82 subaru on my t3 .. i am preparing an eaton supercharger as draw through system.. i dont even know if this project works or blow the motor after install but for start if i manage to make it work do you think that i can pull out degrees to distributor to make it more safe? Due to more linear boost that superchacher gives..
Hi Matt - great video. My brother and I have a turbo build on a split bus. A guy built it for us a project and quit through the build and we’re left scratching our heads to get it to turn over and start. Any chance I could send a video or photos and have you take a look and offer some advice? Thank you!!
Since you are using a drawthrough setup you don’t need to prep the carburator for boost. Am I right? And second I have a turbo from a volvo 240 b21 that looks similar to yours. Do you think that will work?
Now I know who you hang out with. Its great to have Darrin as a neighbor. Great video. Great explanation of how it works. You answered a few of my questions. I still have a few more to ask.
Would a sp be better than dp?
Why a Volvo turbo? Isint most volvo most 6 cylinders engines. A vw 4 cylinder water cooled wouldn't be ideal. I'm thinking close to overall engine size ( displacement). Or even a v-tech ? Thanks again for the topic. Hope to see you in lakeland at the show in a few weeks
I wish Darrin was that close to me lol. He lives about 40mile north west of me, so I don't get over to see him as much as I would like.
Now to answer your question.
----- for HP a dual port is better than a single port turbo or not. The reason I went single port was just to be different and I wanted all my power under 4500 RPM.
------The turbo from the Volvo is a Garrett t3 which is used on 4cylinders and small 6cylinders. The reason I used it, is that you can put carbon seals in them for draw through. The turbos on newer 4cylinder car use dynamic seals and can not be used in a draw through setup.
Hope this helps. I hope I can make it to Lakeland. Not sure if we have thing for the kids that weekend.
@@MattLundquistVW thanks Matt for answering my question. Thank you for making our vw community better. Take care my friend
@@MattLundquistVW your closer to me then? I'm in Tampa. Have a good day.
@@Volkswagenplanet you are about 110 mile away from me then. Darrin is kind of the middle of the state.
Hi, I am building a vw 2027cc turbo t4 project and the turbo location will be very low (slightly higher than crankcase level).
Where would you recommend me to be able to generate the recirculation of the turbo lubrication oil to the engine without the need for an electric pump, so that it only works by gravity?
Thank you
Is overheating a problem if daily driving or Willa large oil cooler help?
Looking to turbo my type4 it's in a street rail,any info on boost for a mildley updated engine would be great ,good video
Type 4 do not have a good head stud pattern for boost ( not very square). Most people that I have seen do it run low boost like 5-6 psi
Matt curious, I have been looking at putting a turbo on my Sand Rail with a Type 1 1600 engine, need a little extra HP for some of these sand hills. I was looking at getting the Holley Sniper EFI, but was informed of the Super Sniper that allows for the blow-through vs draw-through. Do you have any comments to this type of setup?
The super sniper would be the way to go as you could make it blow through and place the turbo almost anywhere you want. Also you can use a cheap modern turbo as you will not need a carbon seal in blow through. Another advantage is you can run an intercooler in blow through.
Draw through is simple if you have a turbo with a carbon seal. But cheap carbon seal turbos are getting hard to find. My vote with the EFI is a blow through set-up. Hope this helps you.
How are your cast pistons holding up - they still ok ?
Friend what turbo are u ussing is it stock on the inside?
Great info. I got most of a blow thru set up already. Single 40 IDF. What's a good turbo to make it fun. Like a .43 ? K03? Thank you for this video. It really helps
vw67 beetle81 ko3 will work. Or a t-3 they are good up to the 2L size motors and can work on 1600cc also. If you never plan on making your motor bigger then a T25 may be a better option.
Tk you for your information! Could i have information, who sell the above products? Tks again!
CB performance sell most of what you need.
well it looks like I stepped in it again I picked up a GT1752S from an ebay seller maXpeedingrods It is a good looking replacement package for a Saab 2.0. And now the rub, I don't know without taking it apart if it has the carbon seal I need for a draw through system on my VW or for that matter if I can even get one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's highly doubtful that it has a carbon seal. I'm not sure if one can be put in. Call g-popshop they should be able to answer that. If it can not be adapted to a carbon seal you could just build a blow through setup. Cost is a little more but you can mount an intercooler in it and mount the turbo almost anywhere.
What year Volvo did you pull the turbo from?
Hey whats up man . I got 2054cc worh a 4 barreel t3. But now i need to tune. Im gettimg a lot of popping and wondeeing where to start. Im a newbie. And i thi k mine is a draw throught.
Popping is usually a lean condition. The first thing you need to do is get a wideband air/ fuel gauge, the AEM one is cheap and good. Next make sure your timing is around 25* full advance, this is a good starting point and the plugs are gapped correctly. Then drive it watching the AFR gauge ( on a closed road of course), you want it to read in the 12:1 range on boost. If it is making boost and 14:1 or higher it is way to lean and you need to stop and jet it richer. It's a trial and error deal. Also you intake manifold might need some heat if this problem is at idle or just off idle. Most four barrel VW setup use engine oil to heat the carb so it doesn't freeze up. Hope this helps
tk you! Turbocharger must create more heat and be working harder with most parts? this is vital problems or not?
It will raise air temperature when it compresses the air ( builds boost) but you don't drive under boost all the time. For most of your driving you still will be on vacuum not building additional heat. The placement of the turbo will affect the how hot the engine gets ( i.e. turbo in the engine compartment with the deck lid full closed) more than anything else
Nice setup. Just wondering, do turbos not need the same preheat as non turbos?
Sometimes they need preheat to the carb depending on your climate and carb. Usually four barrel draw through manifolds for street cars have port for engine oil to heat the carb. On a blow through setup with dual carbs preheat is not needed. Hope this helps
I have a 2180 with a 38/38 EMPI synchronous carb. I already have a T3/T4 tubro, wate gate with 7lb and 13lb springs, oil feed and return lines and few other little goodies. Arw there any suggestions you would give me with this setup for a draw through and would you suggest going to an electronic ignition over the standard distributor? Also, what O2 sensor would you suggest?
The thing I would suggest for the carb is to boost reference the power valve; so that under boost the mixture is enriched. Made a video of how to do it on a progress which has the same architecture th-cam.com/video/3PKQY4bO3fA/w-d-xo.html
As for the distributor I would use a 009 if you have one already, and mod it to limit the advance to 25* made a video on that also th-cam.com/video/loA_MyJH19U/w-d-xo.html . Then I would just add a cheap points conversation kit. We did these mod on a friends baja with a 1600 and a T3 turbo and it would hual the mail at 15 pounds. That 2180 should be a lot of fun with some boost. Make sure that T3/4 has a carbon seal as you are going draw through, if it is a eBay/ Amazon special it will not have one. There is a company that sells the carbon seal conversion kit ( backing plate and all) for those on eBay for around $160. For an 02 gauge the AEM wideband has worked well for me, one of the cheaper ones at around $200. Get a wideband as it will make tuning a breeze. Hope this helps and thanks for subing👍
@@MattLundquistVW would I be better off getting another carb than trying to mod the EMPI? As far as the turbo goes, it's a TO4E .57, I will look into the carbon seal.
@@HaulinBass The carb mod is very simple to do. Most carbs are going to require some modifications and tuning. The only one that I have heard of the doesn't is a Holley 3310 four barrel.
what sort of fuel pressure regulator do you use and where can I get one?
This will work for blow through and draw through. Hope this helps you on your project.
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7246.htm
so what kind of power are we talking about on a stock 1600? what kind of power on your stroker?
That really depends on how hard you push it and what it is to start with. Typically you can expect about double the power at 15 psi of boost. My single port stroker is putting down about 130 according to drag race calculators ( don't have a dyno) @ 8psi. A friend has a 1600 DP with a 100 cam and has pushed #20 of boost and it is much faster than my car. But on a stock 1600 DP with #10 of boost it should make a true 85-100 hp. You got to remember a 1600 only had 46 DIN HP to begin with, and most are wore out now. 10 psi of boost is a good safe street setting as gas can very from station to station. 100 HP (flywheel ) is good to get you in the 14's and 130hp can get you in the 13's. Now there are people going much faster on 1600, but push them much farther on the boost. R.A.D Rodney Adams has a 1600 EFI turbo that is going 11's but has big valve heads and aftermarket cam. There is a guy in Sweden that has a 1641 EFI turbo with big heads and cam putting down 340 HP to the wheels and runs 10's and is a street car. But for a normal 1600 I would expect 90hp at around 10 psi.
Hey I was wondering if maybe I could ask you a few questions regarding forced induction on a beetle. Long story short but when I was 7, I was obsessed with herbie and my parents decided to buy a 71 beetle for me and my grandpa to work on. But the thing was an absolute rust bucket and I never had the money to fix it right. The whole frame is pretty much gone so I decided I’m going to build a tube frame and make what’s left the the motor and front beam into a sand rail. This is not the part I’m having a hard time with, I’m a fabricator/machinist at my own shop so the frame/suspension will be a nice side project. My main problem is I know very little about these Aircooled vw engines, my dads a diesel mechanic and is pretty good at figuring things out but this is over both our heads at the moment. My main concern is that I want to supercharge it but I’m not sure where to even start. I’d like to run an amr500 supercharger and maybe a Weber 48 side draft. But I know both about jetting for a boosted engine. I’d also like to do some stuff to strengthen the engine for the extra power but I don’t know where to start there either. I plan on doing some stuff like an electric fuel pump, maybe a magnaspark crank trigger so I can tune the ignition around the boost. I would appreciate any advice you have!
So if you want to use what you have, here's what I suggest.
- New stainless steel exhaust valves at a minimum for the heads ( exhaust valves break easy on boosted VWs )
- HD single valve springs at minimum dual would be better
- mild cam shaft E100, C35, web 218
- home port job on the heads and manifolds
- stock rods 311b and stock piston are fine for 10 psi and under. Just gap the rings.
- 8 dowel the crank and flywheel ( add 4 dowel pins to the crank)
- Add a oil filter ( could be a filter pump or full flow)
- HD rocker shafts
- chro-moly push rods
- and a good pressure plate and disc.
- the arm 500 will work good with a 1600 but will be small if you ever make the motor bigger.
- the 48 Weber is way to big for your setup, I would find something else.
- as for jetting get a wideband afr gauge. It will make you a jetting wizard .
- If you plan on going EFI then go crank trigger. If not save the money and get the CB black box, it's fully programable.
Now if you find the heads are junk ( cracks by the valves and plugs)
This is what I would put together
1679cc
*Cb Pancho's cut for 90.5 dual springs
*AA 88 slip case machine head pistons.
And the same parts as above.
There is a gentleman with that combo on the samba that is making 200+ at the tire in a fiberglass buggy on a turbo EFI E85 setup. But he has lots of time in tuning it.
Try to aim for a Max of 10psi for now. Once you get it dialed in enjoy. Then one day you can start to creap up on the power.
Hope this helps and sorry for taking so long to get back to you.
If you have other questions just ask.
Matt Lundquist thank you! A few years ago I put a full flow on and added a oil filter and oil cooler. I was looking online and I might go with pachino heads just because the price doesn’t seem to bad. Would there be any machine work needed to instal those (like clearance) or would it be fine the way it comes? Also do you think the stock crank will hold up to the added pressure of boost? And how would you go about retarding the timing when boost builds? (I think I’ve heard people say each pound of boost needs 2 or so degrees less timing) I guess if I used a programmable ignition it could be programmed to do that, but how would you do it with stock ignition? Also would a 40mm carb be a better choice
The heads will work out of the box ( just clean them well). As for ignition, simple and cheap is to limit the advance on a 009 distributor. I had a video on this and it is simple. You just move the stops for the centrifugal advance half the distance. And then set timing to 25* BTDC max at like 3k rpm. This works well for draw through setup. Blow through setups like advance when on vacuum, so the black box would be needed. A 40mm carb is a better choice.
Is there a boost difference between the 2 setup of turbo? And another question does 7psi is much for stock vw motor?(im watching you from latin american💯)
Both styles of systems should produce approximately the same amount of boost. Usually the blow through carb setup will produce slightly more boost before the carb. But if your wastegate signal is at the manifold on both setups and set for 7psi then that is what it should make.
A stock engine in good condition should have no problems with 7psi of boost, most people run 10psi as that is a good stopping point before more money needs to be spent( ignition).
I would recommend some parts to help make it happen with boost.
#1 single HD valve springs and chromoly retainers.
#2 HD pushrods chromoly or aluminum. But not steel ( very heavy).
#3 bolt together rocker shafts.
#4 only if motor is already apart 8 dowel crank and flywheel.
I Hope this helps in your turbo adventure my latin American friend 🙂
Using a OSU is unique. We always had problems with those on the British cars are you running H rods. I didnt hear you talk about that. just the crank.
The SU worked real good for as simple as it was, just have to learn where the needle needs filing to richen it up. That motor had I beam rods which they say take boost better than H beams, but H beams are better at taking high RPM. But at less than 10 psi of boost it doesn't matter.
Do you know if the vw1600 engine with turbo can sustain around 150hp for a long time (say, up to 5 hours nonstop) at low rpms (between 3000 and 4500 rpms)?
Driving on boost for 5 hours non stop it would over heat.
Turbos build boost when there is a load on the motor. Driving down the road around 60-70 MPH is a light load and should not produce boost.
But towing a RV trailer up a hill trying to go 60mph would be a large load and would produce boost and quick over heat the motor.
If you keep periods of boost to small intervals ( like going up on ramps to freeways) and drive long distance ( like on a freeway) and have a light load ( one or two passages in a bug) a turbo 1600 will live a long life.
Now take that same motor and put it in a late bay window bus and load it with camping gear and it will not have a very long life. It's all about how hard to has to work. When it works harder it makes boost which makes heat.
What about using a vacuum advance dist. with locked counterweights, which would have the effect of "retarding" the timing when the vacuum went away?
What carb are you using here? I might have missed it in the explaination. Also, I am thinking to do the same setup on dual port 1600cc headers, will the same turbo work fine? Thanks for the video!
The carb is a 1 1/2" SU . A T3 turbo should work well with a 1600.
Ah thank you for the fast response! Lets see if I can find that carb here and see what it does.
@@MattLundquistVW what about the A/R? You mention .42/.48. Should it be .48 on the cold side and .42 on the exhaust side? Or in reverse?
@@giovannit.9729 It was a .42 for the compressor and .48 for the turbine ( exhaust).
How daily friendly is this?
is there any way i can put a turbo in a beetle without doing anything to the deck lid?
Yes.... Buy this kit th-cam.com/video/dLDQlydaqlI/w-d-xo.html
How about adding water methanol to it and leave the timing as is add only add water methanol under boost pressure
Kevin water/meth injection is great stuff and would work well. But as with everything in life it adds cost and something else to fill up. Most people just want to get in and go and not even check the oil LoL. It would work but I don't think VW people would want to pay the $400 price tag unless they are building a top level turbo car. That is the main reason for a limited ignition advance ( or locked out) it's the cheap way out.
I was dreaming with that simplicity. I was wondering, could i use the original fuel pump ? Does the fuel consumption increases more than the other mount? Fuel consumption is an important thing for considering to me, I just want to make my roadtrips more comfortable. I wish it only drinks heavy fuel only with heavy foot, not cruising along. Another question, i am planing to use twin turbo setup with two carbs due to its separated intakes. I have the possibility to use Volkswagen TSI 1.0 turbochargers, but, i don't think it has carbon seals, is it really necessary for a daily use with this draw through configuration? Thanks a lot! I really really appreciate your video and your kindness answering to our doubts!
A stock fuel pump can work for lower hp setups. Fuel consumption will depend on how well you have it jetted. Usually a blow through carburator or EFI setup get better fuel mileage than draw through. I highly doubt that the TSI 1.0 turbo has a carbon seal. Carbon seals don't last as long as dynamic seal and auto companies made the switch to dynamic seals in the mid 90's. A dynamic seal is like a piston ring and seals best when under pressure ( boost). When a vacuum is applied ( closing the throttle plates on a draw through setup) oil can be pulled through the gap in the seal, cause oil smoke on deceleration. Although a twin turbo sounds cool and would have a wow factor in looks. It would be over complicated and not make any more power than a single turbo. I think the TSI 1.0 makes 100~ ish hp stock , which is plenty for a stock 1600. Sorry for the late response, hope this helps
@@MattLundquistVWow, don't worry, wasn't late. Now i understand why it smokes, the comparison with the piston rings made it perfectly clear. I didn't get it before. Thanks!
Actually I don't need more than 70, 80hp. I wish i could make it a 1.8L or greater. Would solve my issues, but prices are 3 to 4 times higher than turbocharging a 1.6L. Saddly :(
So, to use draw through configuration I need a good carbon sealed turbo. I'm gonna call some stores and see what they got. Now that I note the difference it will be a lot easier to look for it.
About the TSI and the twins idea:
Here in Brazil we got lots of these tiny turbos and they are the cheaper ones! That's why i'm looking at them. WelI, can use just one.
The reason i was thinking at twins is that TSI turbos are so tiny that i'm afraid it couldn't handle a 1.6l displacement. I imagine maybe too much counterpressure on exhaust, or maybe temperature too high. But I got no experience or practical knowledge of turbocharging at all, so i really dont know if it would cause any harm to the turbo or to this especific engine.
I note that i meant fuel mileage rather than consumption itself on the other text, my bad! :) Thanks for understanding and for all the help!
best turbo for a 1600cc vw rail buggy? t3 what mm?
A turbo with an A/R of .42/.48 works good on a 1600 and leaves some room to grow if you ever move up in displacement. A Garrett T 3 from an old Volvo works good. Not sure of the wheel size, they are small under 50mm on the intake side and same on the exit on the turbine side. Hope this helps
Matt, do You know how to fit a turbo into a Electronic fuel injection Air Coolel VW?
Hello Joe Rangel, you would make it a blow through setup. That is where the turbo compressor is before the throttle body. The stock VW beetle EFI ecu from the 70's would have to be replaced with an aftermarket unit like a megasquirt or something like that. I don't know how tuneable the later Mexican ecu's are.
Okay I need help again lol. I used a Saab turbo, I cannot get ANY boost out of the thing. Everything is setup correctly I have had multiple people look at it that have a lot of knowledge on turbos. The only thing they can come up with is that I used a turbo from an EFI Saab and I'm trying to use it on a draw through setup. The turbo came off on a 2 liter and I'm using a 1.9 so it should be the correct size for the motor. I can't find anything online about what turbos you can use for our setup. Can you please let me know what your turbo is off of or what other turbos you know will work for sure with our setup. I'm trying to get this on the road asap and if I need to buy a new turbo that will work I want to get it on its way! Thank you again
It should build boost regardless if it was for EFI or not. My first thought is your wastegate may not be closed or you have a massive boost leak ( should hear that).Also check your throttle, if it is not going wide open then it will affect how much boost you make. John's baja had the throttle problem at first would only build 3#, then we found that the carb would move and only go about half throttle. Once we fix that by mounting it more solid, it made 15#. The only problem with using a turbo off a newer EFI car is the seal, it can pull oil when you let off the throttle.
There use to be a dune buggy website that listed all the factory carbon seal turbos and which cars they came on ( was all late 80's - early 90's cars). Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the site, it was from the early 2000's so it may not be around anymore. What you have should work, just needs some tinkering with. If you swap it out you could do the cheap eBay turbo with the carbon seal kit as the 1915 should run it , but I would find the problem with what you have first.
Here are the things I would check on your set up.
1. Check and make sure the turbo spins freely ( I know it sounds dumb, but some welding wire can lock the turbine up ask me know I know lol).
2. Make sure the wastegate is seated all the way.
3. Make sure you are getting wide open throttle when you have someone push the pedal.
4. Look for exhaust and intake leaks, if the exhaust has a bad leak it will not spin the turbo as fast as it can.
Hope this helps
@@MattLundquistVW thank you for responding so quickly. I know that I don't have any major exhaust leaks I've put my hand around every connection while at 4k rpm and there's nothing. I have the turbo sitting right ontop of the manifold with 2 clamps and a rubber connector and there isn't any leakage from the boost side of things. I took the tailpipe off the turbo and could see the shaft spinning and saw it go up and down in speed with rpm speed and I made sure to hold the wastegate completely shut too and still nothing. I tested the gauge with an air compressor and saw it go up and down with pressure, I also texted the wastegate actuator the same way and watched it push and pull. I opened up the turbo and everything looks really good inside. I think I will go ahead and order an eBay turbo and just try it and hope if it doesn't work they will let me return it if I don't damage it. Like I said my buddies which are pretty much turbo experts had no explanation for it other than it came off an EFI but I haven't found any proof online of that effecting anyone else's. I tried to find a website like that with a list of turbos that were factory draw through but no luck with that either. I will continue the search and hopefully someone works eventually. My neighbors aren't getting too happy hearing me hold it wide open in the yard all weekend 😂. I took it down the road and it ran great but had no power difference at all, wide open but I will try to check if it's actually making it wide open while I'll driving it down the road or if the carb is moving. One of my friends suggested that maybe the exhaust isn't restrictive enough so it's not holding pressure making it now spin quick enough but at 6k rpm I still couldn't even get 1 psi
@@johnsparks8572 you don't want restrictions in the exhaust, the turbo is a restriction it self. A restrictive muffler can also keep it from building boost, but not to the extent you are saying. When you drive it what gear are you in ? Turbos need load to build boost, so free reving it when it is parked is useless. Check the gauge when you are in second gear or higher, VWs are geared so low that in first they just don't load the turbo enough to build boost in first gear. Also check your timing, about 25* BTDC total is a good starting point. Also check the plugs to see if it is way to lean or rich.
I suggest you get the turbo mainia book from cb performance. Lots of good information in there. Your friends are trying to help and that's cool, but they are giving you lots of bad information. So that book should help you understand how the system works. The turbo is just an air compressor in all reality it doesn't care if it was on on an EFI car or carburetor setup. The turbos that came on Volvo's and four cylinder mustangs and Mercury from the early 90 to late 80's had carbon seal. Also the Dodge turbo cars of that same vintage had carbon seal. I have also hear that Mitsubishi eclipse up until around 95 had or could be converted to carbon seal. The website that had that list is no longer around unfortunately. Was called dune-buggy.com and now it's a dead link.
@@MattLundquistVW alright I will definitely check out the book, I checked the spark plugs they seem clean but not running to lean, I ran the car through all 4 gears absolutely floored, but the cable could definitely be pulling the carb closer not giving any load I guess. The acceleration seemed the same though and I would think it would get worse if I wasn't actually getting full throttle now I set the timing pretty close to 30. That's exactly what I was thinking too, other than the carbon seal they all pretty much work the same and didn't make sense to me. I'm gonna put it back together tomorrow and try it again, I ordered a new t25 turbo from eBay. $105 if I can get it to work tomorrow though I'll cancel the order. I should be able to get it.
Wondering if you can help me with a bit more info I been thinking of doing this to my big but not a lot of info on TH-cam about it till I found your video it help thanks
What info are you looking for?
how laggy is a t3t4 turbo on a 1600? the motor in my car is not stock but i have yet to finish my build and the t3t4 is the turbo i am using. i have a 1641 with ported heads, cam, and ratio rockers. also going to boost through a weber 32/36
Pretty laggy. By the time it really lights off you are at the end of the RPM range. For some reason they really struggle in the 0 - 10 psi range, once you jump that gap they come on like a gang buster. For drag racing you can use a two step limited to over come this ( will spool the turbo because you are at WOT and the exhaust flow is high). But on the street not much else you can do. T3/T4 are really for people that plan on running higher boost (15-20#), a smaller T/3 will spool so much faster and preform better in the 5 - 10 psi range on small motors like 1641cc. If you already have it use it, as you can always step down since they use the same exhaust flange.
This is a video of a stock 1600 with a T3/4 blowing through a set of 44 idf's. Notice how long it takes to get to 5# . Now of course more mod's like you have will help.
th-cam.com/video/vYMgb9M3U7U/w-d-xo.html
Now that same exact turbo on a 2110 blow through single 44 IDF.
th-cam.com/video/xlthUbwqGqM/w-d-xo.html
And now for a T3. This is on my 2220 single port when the clutch would not hold it ( load = boost and a slippery clutch makes no load) But notice how much faster it come up on boost compared to my friends 2110 big valve dual port. Hope this all helps you and others.
th-cam.com/video/lO2zYR2X9_c/w-d-xo.html
What would be your opinion on a fitec
I like the idea and price of fitec. Unfortunately I do not have any direct experience with it. I do have a friend that has the go street 400hp setup on a 2.8 gm that he uses on a fiero for chump car racing. He likes it a lot and has had no problem so far. The cool thing is you could use that setup in draw through or blow through. There is a guy that makes a whole kit for vw's. Here is his website
rodneyadamsdesigns.com/products/fitech-efi-kits/
Dear friend, good afternoon. My name is Eduardo and I'm from Brazil. I'm building a 1600 turbo, single port injected, with K16 turbo. Here it is customary to use two bodies and many say that single port is not good. I would like your opinion if it would be better single port or dual port for my case and what differences of power. Street car to accelerate. Thankful.
Hello Eduardo the single port is a good head, but it is NOT a performance head. With dual throttle body injection and single port heads there maybe fuel distribution problems, as you cannot inject the fuel directly into each port like you can with dual port heads. The dual port heads flow more air stock than modified single port heads. Dual port heads are great for a turbo 1600. I would guess that power would be 10-15% better on a stock dual port than a single port, due to better air flow. For your twin throttle body EFI turbo setup the dual ports are a better choice.
With that said I like things that are different, that's why I used the single port heads. Everyone runs dual ports and the single ports take a beating a little better than dual ports also. Since my setup was a draw through carburator the fuel distribution problem was not a factor.
For your set up I would use some dual port head with a home port job and some dual springs. I will try to find a link to an article on how to home port your heads for you. Hope this help you on your build, sounds like a fun project.
Here is the head porting article. I suggest printing it out as sometimes these websites go away.
a-dingli.tripod.com/basic_head_porting.htm
Thank you my friend!! Your comment was very helpful. If you find the link send me, please. Congratulations and good luck on your projects !!
Link is in the post above glade this information has been helpful.
Can you put a link to the 2 channels you refer to in the video?
Oldspeedsi channel th-cam.com/users/oldspeedsi
Vintage speed VW channel th-cam.com/channels/Esshpv6d_rq-Z2MnrcqxJA.html
how do you make to were it fits under the deck lid
If you really want it to fit all the way under the deck lid ( no stand off's) then blow through is the way to go.
Matt Lundquist True and have no boost. 9 lbs is a tease . I want 25lbs lol .
Great video, quick question, is your engine a 1600?
It was a 2220 94mm bore 80mm stroke.
@@MattLundquistVW Im getting a bug soon and might try to get the engine up to 2 liters. What model of turbo are you using?
@@Alicia-kd6vv Garrett T3 .42A/R is what I had.
Hi what type of carburetor are you running? Make? Model? You said it don’t have jets? Please let me know thank you greatly appreciated.
The carb is a SU HS4. It has a needle that is tapered that moves up and down depending on air flow through the carb. There are no jets , to change the fuel mixture you change the shape of the needle.
Matt Lundquist You mentioned also about motorcycle carburetors? That can be used? Is it jetless as well? What carbs are those? Thank you greatly appreciated 🤙🏿
@@lelogumby7122 If you are going draw through turbo you can use any carb you like. People have use Weber side draft carbs, mikuni, S&S, SU carburetors, Holley carbs even the stock solex carburetor. They all can work when you get it tuned correctly ( a wideband Air Fuel ratio gauge is invaluable). With blow through your options are less, Weber ,dellorto, EFI and some four barrels are commonly used.
@@lelogumby7122 The SU is kind of unique in that it has the needle as it's only source for fuel metering. Most motor cycle carbs have an idle jet and a needle. Some have a high speed and idle jet with a needle. In all reality the SU is the simplest carb because it only has the needle for fuel mixture, but it is also harder to get tuned. The reason is the needle can share two parts of the operating range of the engine. For example idle and low speed running (cruising RPM), these two spots require different fuel demand but can share the same spot on the needle. So you have to compromise, my idle is very rich so that my cruising fuel mixture is optimal. You have to find where the needle is at at a given load and RPM to tune it. It is a game of trial and error with the SU. If I did it again I would get a carb that at least had an idle jet.
Thank you greatly appreciated for the information very informative 🤙🏾
i'd like to hear more on why you chose the 2236 cam.
Scotty C I chose the CB 2236 cam as it was similar in spec to the Engle FK 65, which is the range I wanted. I have never ran a CB cam before, but have heard good things about then ( not going flat). Plus it is a cam that CB recommends for turbo use. It idles amazingly well even with the single carb, it has power until 5000 ish rpm. Which works well with the single port heads and single springs. Plus you can use ratio rockers on it as well. I was skeptical as CB performance does not give you much info on their cams. But seeing that it was so close to an F K 65 I decided to try it, also it was cheaper than Engle cam and I was ordering parts from CBperformance so that tip my decision for the CB cam. It has worked very well in this combination, very street able, great low end power and exceeds the # I wanted in the 1/4 mile (13.94@97 mph). If it was a dual port in my combination I may have wanted a little more cam timing, but it is a single port and it works great. To me this would be a good cam for mild dual carb 1600-1915cc motors that do a lot of driving I.E. daily drivers and cruisers.
i didn't know CB recommended it for turbos. as for not much information on the cam, i find all VW cams rarely come with valve timing events published anywhere on the web and what i'd really like to see are lift, velocity and acceleration graphs to go with the timing events. so what do you run in the 8th mile?
Scotty C yeah most of the time your lucky to get a description, like good low end cam lol. It runs 8.98- 9.0 in the eighth mile on 10 psi of boost. It's slightly slower now with the lower compression and lower boost 9.0-9.10's @7psi of boost.
seems that it didn't slow much with a 3 psi reduction. i used to run about 10.4 or so in the 1/8th with my '74. it, like the 1745 i'm working on, is built around the karcey miler camshaft. haven't started it in over 24 years now. ah, one of these days.
Scotty C I did some head work when I lowered the compression so that helped. It lost some of the down low fun by taking the compression out of it. But I can run crap gas now and plan to go back to 10 psi one day.
Sir can you tell us why we need a carbon seal for the draw through system?
A carbon seal makes 360° contact sealing the compressor from the center housing ( where the oil is). When you let off the throttle the intake will have a high amount of vacuum. The throttle is pre turbo on a draw through making the compressor under a vacuum also. If you do not have a carbon seal it will pull the oil out of the center housing. The dynamic seal is made for blow through where the throttle is post turbo, It is like a piston ring. It seals when pressure is applied but will not seal under vacuum. On a blow through there is never a high amount of vacuum in the system as the throttle blade is down stream of the turbocharger. Hopefully this helps
@@MattLundquistVW It looks like I need to take my unit apart and see exactly what I have. Would you have any source suggestions for these seals? Thanks for the great info!
@@rickcald1661 a friend of mine had good dealings with these guy. gpopshop.com/
Give them a call and they can tell you what you need.
@@MattLundquistVW Thanks so much!
What year and model Volvo did you pull the turbo from?
It's been too long (well over a decade) to remember what year and model. Just remember it was an older Volvo,
Thanks for the reply I’m currently building my motor to a pull through and I’m on the hunt for a carbon sealed!
@@downtimegarage605 Google is your friend lol. I remember there was a website that had all the part numbers of factory carbon seal turbos. It was on a dune buggy forum if I remember correctly, sorry I don't remember which website.
Hey Matt
I adopted a 1971 beetle. I believe its a 2175 and i need some help . i am?trying to work out the bugs ( no pun intended) i have 2 brass ports coming out of the valve covers and i connected them but now i have oil coming out of the crank seal. I understand turbo basics but am having a hard time with the ass kicking im am bein given on this beetle.
The two brass ports are breathers. They need to be vented to a breather box. If you connected them together it will cause pressure to build in the crank case and oil will come out from behind the pulley. CSP, CB performance, Berg and Ron lummus racing sell quality ones. With larger displacement vw engines you have more swept volume pushing the oil mist around in the crank case. Lots more than vw ever intended, so the common practice is to add a breather box that connects both valve covers, and the stock breather ( by the oil filler) and to the fuel pump mount if an electric pump is being used. Hope this helps
Matt i VERY VERRRY MUCH appreciate your advice. I undid the connection and no more blow thru from crankcase gasket.. I have a couple more issues. I know knowledge isn't free ..plz tell me if i could consult you with this project. My ignition seems to be an issue as well..it does run but I dont feel it's running right . there was no expense spared as far as i can tell on this motor work.
I do have substantial pics amd can even video chat. I would appreciate a few minutes to get this thing running right. Shes almost ready for paint..thank you
@@MajorKlozeoff So I would need to know more about what you do know of this engine. What type of ignition you have, carbs you have, camshaft you are running, what type of heads and compression ratio? I know you did not build it and may not have all that info but it all works together. Typically air-cooled VW like around 28-32° BTDC full advance with centrifugal distributors with around 10° at idle. Plug gap depends on the quality of ignition you have, you might want to check the gap and plug wires ( have found them not connected some times) you can start with a small gap .024' and open them up until you see a diminished return. Also clogged idle jets are a common problem that will cause idle and transition problems. The idle circuit goes from idle to around 3000 RPM, right where most of your driving is.
@@MattLundquistVW sorry sir for the late response as other projects ( $ paying) had to be finished
Is there an email i can send you to allow you to see my plight?
But if the engine is air cooled how do you keep the turbo cool? That’s what I’m having trouble understanding so can anyone explain that to me.
The turbo is cooled by the oil. For normal operation where you are not building boost all the time this is sufficient, if you were pulling heavy load up hill ( building boost) the obviously this would end in disaster.
@@MattLundquistVW or just run a small radiator only for the turbo with an electric pump. Or put an oil cooler maybe.
@@tylerdavidson3607 not needed for occasional use. If you continually boost an air cooled VW for long periods of time it will cook the heads as they are not designed for that uses.
Question, what carb is that?
It's an 1 1/2" SU
How can I tell which kind of turbo mine is???
Unfortunately you would probably have to take it apart to find out. But if it came off a newer car (mid 90's and up) it more than likely does not have a carbon seal. If it is a cheap turbo off eBay or Amazon it will not have a carbon seal.
Whats is pressure the moviment ?? Good moorning
I don't understand your question.
@@MattLundquistVW whats your ,precion the turbo ??
@@evertonnturbocharger2762 are you asking what pressure I'm running the turbo at? Currently it is at 10psi. I think we have a slight language difference 😞
@@MattLundquistVW yes,my inglês os péssimo,thankyo my friend !
does this apply for a Golf? lol
Why so big turbos??
BUILD ME A KIT AND ILL PAY YA FOR IT!!!
Sorry man not in the fabrication business. This video is to encourage people to build it them selves. Harbor freight has some cheap welders and you can modify a standard header for turbo use. Give it a try, it will be rewarding to do it your self. If you don't have time check out CB preformance or Carcraft they can make anything you want.
Is there anyway to run a decklid with a turbo?
The easiest way is to use CB performance hideaway header and run a blow through setup.
@@MattLundquistVW sweet thank you
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7301t.htm If you already have dual carbs this is a good way to go. Don't use a T3/ T4 chinese turbo, they take for ever to spool up on a vw; especially if it is stock displacement. A T25 or t28 would work good on a small displacement VW. Also you could run a center mount weber carb and keep the cost down.
@@MattLundquistVW I think mine is currently stock as far as I know, when I go turbo I was planning on also upgrading to 1776cc or even 1915
@@hobohamster1808 then a T25 would be a good choice. If the motor is solid then you could turbo now and up grade the bottom end later. The only things I would up grade now would be the valve train. C/M push rods, bolt together rocker shafts and HD single valve springs. You may find that a turbo 1600 is more power than you need.
ive messed with all carbs. that carb is the worst choice for any thing. it certainly isnt prepared to deal with ethanol.
I thought that you needed a carbon Seal to run. That set up.?
For a draw through you do, my setup has one.
@@MattLundquistVW yeah thats my concern. I'm very knowledgeable when it comes to naturally aspirated engine and can make hp easy but the turbo set up its my next step. check out my vids and Subcribe and share I'll do tje same. Thanks
What does the carbon seal do and how do I tell if I have one ?
The carbon seal keep the oil from being pulled into the intake system when you close the throttle on a draw through setup. When the carburetor butterflies close the sudden increase of high vacuum will pull the oil past a dynamic turbo seal. The only true way is to disassemble a turbo. If you're using a junkyard turbo most 80 and early 90s cars had carbon seals. There is a list on the internet that shows part numbers for most t3 turbos that came with carbon steel. On more modern cars have dynamic seals as there a blow through setup from the factory anyways. With the blow through setup you do not need a carbon seal and you can use a dynamic seal which lasts longer than the carbon steel. That is why most cars now come with dynamic seal as they live longer. There are companies that sell kits to change it from dynamic to carbon
I’ve got a Garrett turbo from a Diesel engine it’s brand new and was free so I want to try to run it
I really really cannot understand why would anyone want to do turbo charging a tiny Low compression vw engine ? Isn’t these cars designed to be to be the most easiest and Low maintain cars that anyone can repair it at home?