I recently bought a hurricane. I'm 220+ and this bike flys. Just gentle rolling hills where i ride. Plenty of power. Love the cvt on it. It feels like a torque converter on a vehicle when it locks in. Very smooth at any speed.
Yeah really it's a great mini bike right from stock. It's nice how smooth it is. Mine is faster now but vibrates a lot more and it's a lot louder! LOL There's something to be said for a smooth, quiet bike that still works very well out of the box.
@@bwxmoto day 4 of riding at least a hr a day. Only issue I've had is the fact that i haven't been on a bike of any kind in 30 yrs. And they shipped it with a chain tight as a fiddle string, with no adjustment left to loosen it. So I'm basically riding hard tail. Sure will be glad when the new chain i ordered gets here. Finally starting to ease up on the white knuckles. No wipe outs. But the sand, loose gravel, and grooves that want to take you in the opposite direction you want to go still makes me pucker. I haven't seen anyone on the tube keep one stock and just run it. This one does all i need. And will stay stock till one of us gives up.....
Can you tell me where you got the longer kickstand and what length it is. I did see that info. If you remember the info I know it's been awhile. Any help would be appreciated.
@@rigleyrigley4000 I just looked and that info was on a HDD that died. If you look in amazon or ebay and search for motorcycle mirrors you’ll find 20 to 30 dollar ones that look just like this. With the nice hinges. They are pretty good for the price.
It was the stock Comet type driver pulley with that belt length and driven pulley jackshaft that was the issue. Went back to MB200-2 specific driver pulley and it's back to normal. Gonna have to skip the intro 52 sec in explains it in vid below. th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! MB200-2 is definitely a cool mini bike for sure 👍 Also wait till you ride the TW200. Can't explain why but that's a crazy fun bike. Slow, but fun ripping around full throttle everywhere. 😁
I never used a Juggernaut, but I know they are a lot different than a regular TC driver, making the entire system geared a lot lower. Most people seem to like them with a 60t at least. Depends on how fast you're spinning the engine really, and where it's making its power. I found best results by trying different sprockets and just testing them out.
This video showed up in recommended so I watched again. Have to say... If I needed an engine I would hands down get the Pred 224. So much to like and made by Ducar. Uses clone parts and has a legacy straight valve head. EVERY performance part on my 196 would fit on the 224. Cam, Flywheel, and Champion rockers all fit. With some extra work I would be able to use my billet rod. If I went that way I would have to change gearing to 10/60 or 9/50. 9/60 would have too much bottom end for me with my parts and other easy to do performance ideas.
Hey that's cool! haha. Yeah the problem in this uphill run was that driver pulley. I switched back to original and the bike flew up that hill just as fast as any of my bikes. With the belt length and the distance between pulleys, I think the original driver works a lot better. Seems not to squeeze together so much, giving it an overall lower gear ratio at the top end. But I did get a 224 since they had one when I went to HF for something else. LOL. I think I'm gonna slap that in the BT200X and maybe stick the PVL flywheel I got for this Tilly on on the tilly and then stick the Tilly flywheel on the 224. Then both engines get an upgraded flywheel. Maybe after that remove governors and slap on a Mikuni or something even though they really have enough power as is for my kind of riding. But yeah that regular TAV2 pulley would need a shorter belt or something to work on this bike. It doesn't act the same as it does on a TC with a plate and stock sized belts.
@@bwxmoto The original driver sounds like the way to go. Not going to into OD can help in some riding situations. The only weird thing about the 224 is that for some reason they went with a deeper blower housing and longer starter cup. It's just a little wider and not a big deal.
@@Deucealive75 That is kind of weird. The 224 would be a great engine for the MB200-2 with that extra torque. It'll be way better than the 196. I'm not sure it would be better than the Tilly or not but it costs less when considering shipping for the Tilly and can pick up a 224 right at the local HF. I think the universe is telling my to put the 224 in the BT200X just because that bike seems like it need some extra grunt and the Tilly already is working great in the MB200-2. And of course both engines match each bike's color which means don;t have extra time in painting anything to match. I think I'll end up selling the CT200U, both CT200U-EXs, and keeping the MB and the BT. I'd keep them all if I had the space! Gonna be hard letting them go that's for sure, except the one stock EX. They're all really cool bikes and fun.
@@bwxmoto I bought a 224 Saturday. Tons to say but right off I'm not using that blower housing and long starter cup. It's getting a Hisun blower housing and starter cup. The tall fan they are using will rob a sliver of power for those running the stock flywheel. Mine is tore down and so far I'm not that impressed. I'll be doing another mild build but this time with more compression and cam.
Yeah a lot of that doesn't seem to make sense. It has to be the different driver pullies. In this case the question should be, how do they compare with the same driver? The Tillotson's going to do it for you. They are not a traditional "stock" small block. I don't think you will need to open it up once you ride it with a stage 1 kit. People love em. Saturday just before dark I rode to the end of my street about 200 yards at bicycle speed. Turned around and did a full throttle then pulled up my drive. Shut the bike off and looked at my max RPM (4700). A few minutes later went out to get the mail and the police were parked a couple houses down. Someone called over one full throttle run and somewhere around 29 or 30 mph. No helmet so they knew who I was if they were looking. Someone may not like mini bikes, or me, or both. Yikes.
That sucks! Yeah I think people around here are cool must be. I think I drive right by a cop's house on these runs, but I don't too it very often. But I am all geared up and have a headlight and tail light if I ever go on the road. So maybe people just think it's a loud moped. 😆 I agree it must be something to do with the pulley change because even though the numbers might not be 100% correct all the time because of a (up to) 1 sec. delay on tach and 0.8 second on GPS, it's still very weird at times. But everything seems like normal going on flat ground or down a hill for the most part, but going up hill it makes no sense. RPM too low on 9t-60t and too high on 10t-46t. But yeah that Tilly is going to be perfect I think. I would even be happy with a stage 1 Predator, but the bike is heavier than my Colemans so the extra power of the Tilly will be nice. 👍
I added a stage 1 kit with a .38 jet, the super pipe, and a 60T rear sprocket over the weekend. It defiantly added more low end power especially at take off. It rips right up my hills with little to no belt slippage unlike before. That TAV front pulley also makes a big difference. I might end up pulling the gov, adding 18lb valve springs over the winter and see how that changes it all. I’m not going to be racing or road riding this so I am in no rush.
Nice! Yeah I am sure a stage 1 would wake this engine right up. I wanted to test it with just the gearing change though and glad I did because it didn't act how I would have thought. I think it's because stock this engine doesn't put out more power after 3800 RPM or so.. so that's kind of the limiting factor going up a hill. And if you have lower gearing you'll be going slower. But after a power upgrade it can push past that and go faster than stock engine with taller gears on same hill. But... that's just a theory. 😆 That Tillotson revs to 5800 RPM so should be perfect for this bike and this gearing! Can't wait to try that.
That Tillotson is a healthy investment and probably above my instillation and set up level right now. I was thinking of slowly building up a predator 212 on the bench and then eventually doing the motor swap.
@@dankibler4780 Oh I’m just going to run it with stage 1 for a while. Maybe stage 2 someday but the motor has a lot of torque stock and will go 5800 RPM. which is plenty for me, for now anyways!
@@dankibler4780 Around 5,000 RPM. The Hemi on my BT200X goes about 5100 RPM with moving throttle spring all the way to the right hole (had to drill a hole). My Hemi on the CT200U-EX is spinning much faster completely stock governor spring locations just throttle stop screw out. It goes 49 MPH with same gearing as BT (8t-60T) going 45 MPH @ 5100 RPM, so the EX Hemi must be spinning quite a bit faster than that going 49 with same gearing. Didn't have a tach to check that day.. Not sure about the CT200U Hemi, that went 51 MPH but with 9t-60t. So they're all a little different but all mine so far at least 5000 RPM with throttle stop screw out. This J-Dong is 4800 RPM out of the box (at least mine is).
Yeah I'm pretty fortunate to have that so close to home. I just wish there was more.. I lived in a city before so I know how it is. I'm gonna upload a vid that I made today riding my new bike soon. It looks a lot different in the winter!
that bike looks big enough to add a five speed transmission western auto used to make one with a five horse briggs easily go 60, centrifugal clutch would defiantly be an improvement
I just got a torque converter in and the nut the holds the back pulley in everytime i tighten it the whole bike doesn’t move but when I loosen it up it does but it will slowly start to come off what’s a fix?
Wow I'm jealous. I love bopping around on my BT but man do l wish for rear suspension and a better seat. I've found a KX80 seat and tank, that l'm thinking of fitting this winter. But my big swapout is for a Predator 224 and seris 30 TAV.
Yeah the rear suspension is nice. The BT is a cool bike too. I got a new seat (for BT200x) same as stock except much better foam. Helps a lot. Got it at monsterscooterparts I think. I have a 224 ready to put on the BT too! Haha.
@@bwxmoto I live in the interior of BC Canada, winter is her. My snowmobile is calling , icefishing is to! But it should only take a day to do the work on the BT which is easier to deal with. If i can ride in the snow conditions with lowered air pressure on the lake, I can tow my fishing toboggan I think.🤔
im using a 51mm spitfire tablet skateboard wheel as a chain tensioner and it works awesome! i had an issue where my small chain was seized in almost every link when i unboxed my coleman ct200u, thought it wasnt a big deal i lubed the chain really well and thought it was a minor problem that would work itself out, well it only got worse and ended up damaging the metal tensioner in the process, redneck ingenuity kicked in and i used a skateboard wheel, works great, skateboard wheels are usually very hard polyurethane, and the bearing size matches that of chain tensioners, just make sure its a small wheel like 51- 53mm other wise it might be too big, and i got plenty of spares laying around
i also used extra bearings as spacers, which works great as well, and i forgot to mention above that i replaced the chain first before i installed the skateboard wheel as to not cause any further damage, skateboard wheels take a ton of abuse from skateboarders, so i have a lot of confidence in the durability of them
I looked into that and if you can get the right compound I guess they last pretty long. I ended up using the metal roller from the coleman jackshaft and some washers to lengthen the spacer and it works great and doesn’t make a lot of noise and doesn’t wear. I’m sure the right skateboard wheel would work perfectly too.
I'm gettin ready to give the 196 one last shot before I yank it off for somethin bigger. I got the 265 hot cam, 22 lb springs, thinner head gasket, billet rod and flywheel, juggernaut driver, and will eventually swap a 22 mikuni on it. if it doesn't "wake up" at that point, gonna yank it off and get a ec carbs 228. love the bike but just needs more grunt. my 212 predator bikes feel much stronger all around.
I yanked the 196cc today! I’m sure it’ll run a lot better after you get done with all that though. I can say the Tilly even stock feels a lot better. We’ll see how it runs with a super pipe, filter and jet soon.
@@bwxmoto I plan to get another trailmaster to set up strictly for trail ridin, so won't make it all pretty like my evel k bike. might just swap a 225 or 228 on it right from the get go and be done with it. I bought a short bus wit ha wheelchair lift so i can load/unload a couple bikes easy. I wanna hit some of these gambler mini bike races around the country and do some boondock campin.
@@billwilliamson9842 Wow that'll be sweet! That's one short bus I wouldn't mind riding. Haha. Yeah I was looking at the Wildcat 223 too. Might have been better than this 212, not sure. But you have to take out the coil right from the start because it's electronically limited to 4k rpm, and I heard more than one person say the engine was ok but not great and then they blew it up. LOL. Who knows. I think this Tilly has more compression too. Seems to be pretty torquey.
Picked up a 70s yard cart last night for the flat head 5 brig's for a methanol race bike build I was going to just set the kart to the side buy after inspecting it I found that it's a pretty rare little kart so I dropped it of at a friend that does powder coating he sent me pic few mine ago after it was blasted I gave him an idea giving him pretty much free range on it
@@bwxmoto remember I'm the guy with the 30x40 full and convenience his with he needed to build a work space and in 2 weeks has bought 4 more toys that have now starting to take up space in the new shop
Lower gear ratio multiplies wheel torque but limits top speed. Actually it was the driver pulley and belt length that was the problem in above vid. I have an upcoming vid that shows it if I ever get around to editing it.
Question, when going on journeys up country roads like that, how long can you hold full throttle without worrying about these engines blowing up? Is that a concern with these and full throttle for extended periods?
I think it would do that all day long. As long as you aren't spinning it too fast or getting it too hot, it'll do it all day. Going down the hill is where I think I might float the valves or explode the flywheel from spinning it too fast.
@@bwxmoto what kinda flywheel are you running??stock?? If so im in the process of changing to the billet flywheel i dont think you would have a problem going downhill at any speed with that on it.
@@Jayjay2020twen This Tillotson has an up-rated flywheel that apparently can do 8000 RPM for a certain number of seconds or whatever but I do not trust it. I did buy a better flywheel but it's not billet, it's cast but designed to not fly apart, think it's a PVL flywheel. Have not installed it yet though, I might install it on my Predator 224. And it's not about speed of the bike, but engine speed which may not necessarily be the same thing, but going down a big hill with this gearing on this bike it is. Plus I'd be concerned about valve float and the rod failing if running at high RPM. I feel comfortable up to about 6k rpm with this Tilly as it is now and no more.
It turns out it was the driver pulley causing the major difference to what I was seeing on my other minibikes I put that sprocket combo on. The stock mb200-2 driver pulley works differently than the comet or generic comet pulleys. It doesn’t close down as far. I stuck the original mb200-2 driver on there and it works great with that jackshaft setup. But yeah it would have worked better than in this vid if I did what you said, but mainly because of the pulley. The 9 tooth front does still help with further gearing down and helps with steep climbs even with stock pulley. 👍 That’s a good lesson in changing too many things at once and then not knowing which change(s) were good or bad for what you want to accomplish. Had me confused in that first ride!
Check out first few min of this vid (after silly intro 🙃) It’s After I figured out pulleys act a lot differently and changed it. th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html
Want top speed without giving up much low end torque you need to run a 10 tooth front sprocket with a 50 tooth rear run a 5.0:1 final drive ratio a 6.66:1 final drive ratio does nothing for top speed but good for low speed rock crawling.
Oh that's a "planet bike" brand bicycle tail light on Amazon. The new ones are rechargeable, that one was 2x aa cells, still works though after probably 10 years.
Just make one change at a time so you can narrow down exactly what is better and what is not. Never make multiple changes at once, you will be chasing the goal you are after without ever reaching it
Yeah at the time I didn’t realize stock driver pulley was that much different. It was definitely the driver pulley on that cvt setup acting a lot different.
@@r.r.hughes9808 Thanks, hopefully I'll start uploading again soon. I just make vids when I have something new to share basically. I want to do more mods to my minibikes, have lots of parts on the shelves to try, etc.. Just busy and whatnot. ✌
@@Just_call_me-nick Probably because The helmet pads are squishing my face and there is a microphone basically touching my mouth inside the helmet. And the helmet makes everything sound weird too. You could be right! Hard for me to tell. 😆
I just ordered 2 of them handles for my minibikes. I was out riding my mb200 earlier and my handle for the pull start got caught up on the throttle linkage and the throttle got stuck open. I had hit the kill switch. These handles should make a difference.
The torque converter is changing the ratio when you change the sprockets because it's sensing less load. I limited mine with a bushing to keep it from closing too far. I run a 60T rear sprocket. If you want to wake that engine up, I took 0.075" off of the head. Still runs fine on regular gas and has way more torque. To get TAV's to work right takes some tuning - at least for me. With the engine stepped up it goes through belts. Next will be a larger TAV.
The stock MB200-2 driver with bearings act differently compared to the regular TAV driver pulley. Also same gear ratio on a different bike with regular TAV2 30 with plate acts completely different. Belt size and distance between pulleys is different as well. There's a lot of different things making it act different. I changed back to MB200-2 pulley and it acts a lot more like a regular TAV2 30 with that longer 725 belt they have on there. A shorter "725" belt from Amazon makes it feel like it is geared lower too. I don't put all the testing I do in a vid. Check latest MB200-2 vids on this channel to see the difference just the driver pulley makes.
Check this same up hill run with the stock driver pulley back on at 6m 10 sec in vid in link th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html Yeah I have a Superpipe on there but the driver is letting engine spin up more at a given speed and doesn't spread out all the way either like a TAV2 pulley. It works I think because of the distance between pulleys and belt length of this setup compared to a TAV2 system mounted to the plate. Also that rear jackshaft on the MB200-2 might be flexing a little.
@@bwxmoto Your experience is much like mine was. I ended up moving the spring on the driven to the tightest of the three settings. After a bit of tuning and tweaking to include gearing it ran great. The problem was once it was dialed in for optimum performance belt life was about 30 minutes or so. I ran the 196cc with 0.075" turned off of the head, stock carb with 140 emulsion tube and drilled main jet. Ran a 12" header with hot dog muffler. With the compression increase the 196cc engine ran pretty good. One problem I had was the belt would climb up so high on the front driver pulley that it sucked it into the void area on the driven pulley. There are rivets that hold the sheeves to the hubs and it would suck the belt into them and lock up immediately locking up the rear tire into a skid. That's where the front limiting bushing on the driver pulley came into use. Next build will be with a Briggs & Stratton 250cc engine, Mikuni carb, header and compression boost. That will mean also a more robust torque converter. Another thing I did was put some 3/4" aluminum bar stock under the engine raise it up. That made the chain geometry correct with regard to the rear swing arm angle. Also moved the rear shocks to lower the back of the bike a little, to flatten the swing arm more for better chain geometry. Didn't need an idler pulley that way, worked out well. Be careful bro.
![Trailmaster MB200-2! 👍😎 Uncrate, Prep, Test Ride, First Impressions [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tpsvYEPcEn8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Trailmaster MB200-2! 👍😎 Uncrate, Prep, Test Ride, First Impressions [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.910 | 22 ก.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4TR3MVpOiw8/mqdefault.jpg)
I recently bought a hurricane. I'm 220+ and this bike flys. Just gentle rolling hills where i ride. Plenty of power. Love the cvt on it. It feels like a torque converter on a vehicle when it locks in. Very smooth at any speed.
Yeah really it's a great mini bike right from stock. It's nice how smooth it is. Mine is faster now but vibrates a lot more and it's a lot louder! LOL There's something to be said for a smooth, quiet bike that still works very well out of the box.
@@bwxmoto day 4 of riding at least a hr a day. Only issue I've had is the fact that i haven't been on a bike of any kind in 30 yrs. And they shipped it with a chain tight as a fiddle string, with no adjustment left to loosen it. So I'm basically riding hard tail. Sure will be glad when the new chain i ordered gets here. Finally starting to ease up on the white knuckles. No wipe outs. But the sand, loose gravel, and grooves that want to take you in the opposite direction you want to go still makes me pucker. I haven't seen anyone on the tube keep one stock and just run it. This one does all i need. And will stay stock till one of us gives up.....
Can you tell me where you got the longer kickstand and what length it is. I did see that info. If you remember the info I know it's been awhile. Any help would be appreciated.
I thought I had affiliate link in description, guess not.. amzn.to/4cWGOw5
Whats the link or name of that mirror/s you have on the bike! Please answer even after years 🙏
I think link might be in description. If not I'll check later. It's in one of these vids about MB200-2 in the description.
@@bwxmoto 👍🫡
@@rigleyrigley4000 I just looked and that info was on a HDD that died. If you look in amazon or ebay and search for motorcycle mirrors you’ll find 20 to 30 dollar ones that look just like this. With the nice hinges. They are pretty good for the price.
I have Is green Spring In my torque converter number 2 setting I have no issues going up hill or downhill I weigh 205 pounds
It was the stock Comet type driver pulley with that belt length and driven pulley jackshaft that was the issue. Went back to MB200-2 specific driver pulley and it's back to normal. Gonna have to skip the intro 52 sec in explains it in vid below. th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html
Cool bike!!! My bro is getting a TW200 this week.
Thanks! MB200-2 is definitely a cool mini bike for sure 👍 Also wait till you ride the TW200. Can't explain why but that's a crazy fun bike. Slow, but fun ripping around full throttle everywhere. 😁
I have a Tillotson 212 gov out arc flywheel mb200super pipe
With jugg
If I go 9:60 will I have more top speed? Or 9:50
I never used a Juggernaut, but I know they are a lot different than a regular TC driver, making the entire system geared a lot lower. Most people seem to like them with a 60t at least. Depends on how fast you're spinning the engine really, and where it's making its power. I found best results by trying different sprockets and just testing them out.
@@bwxmoto and what was your best combo in your opinion like updated from vid
Heck yea! Great video!
👍😎 Thanks! 🤘
Great channel, you are very informative thank you
You are very welcome, thanks.
You sure do live in a beautiful location
At times, it's downright magical the way it looks around here.
It's a big difference in A196 in A212 size of the piston in 196 is smaller than 212
This video showed up in recommended so I watched again.
Have to say... If I needed an engine I would hands down get the Pred 224. So much to like and made by Ducar. Uses clone parts and has a legacy straight valve head. EVERY performance part on my 196 would fit on the 224. Cam, Flywheel, and Champion rockers all fit. With some extra work I would be able to use my billet rod.
If I went that way I would have to change gearing to 10/60 or 9/50. 9/60 would have too much bottom end for me with my parts and other easy to do performance ideas.
Hey that's cool! haha. Yeah the problem in this uphill run was that driver pulley. I switched back to original and the bike flew up that hill just as fast as any of my bikes. With the belt length and the distance between pulleys, I think the original driver works a lot better. Seems not to squeeze together so much, giving it an overall lower gear ratio at the top end.
But I did get a 224 since they had one when I went to HF for something else. LOL. I think I'm gonna slap that in the BT200X and maybe stick the PVL flywheel I got for this Tilly on on the tilly and then stick the Tilly flywheel on the 224. Then both engines get an upgraded flywheel. Maybe after that remove governors and slap on a Mikuni or something even though they really have enough power as is for my kind of riding.
But yeah that regular TAV2 pulley would need a shorter belt or something to work on this bike. It doesn't act the same as it does on a TC with a plate and stock sized belts.
@@bwxmoto The original driver sounds like the way to go. Not going to into OD can help in some riding situations.
The only weird thing about the 224 is that for some reason they went with a deeper blower housing and longer starter cup. It's just a little wider and not a big deal.
@@Deucealive75 That is kind of weird. The 224 would be a great engine for the MB200-2 with that extra torque. It'll be way better than the 196. I'm not sure it would be better than the Tilly or not but it costs less when considering shipping for the Tilly and can pick up a 224 right at the local HF.
I think the universe is telling my to put the 224 in the BT200X just because that bike seems like it need some extra grunt and the Tilly already is working great in the MB200-2. And of course both engines match each bike's color which means don;t have extra time in painting anything to match.
I think I'll end up selling the CT200U, both CT200U-EXs, and keeping the MB and the BT. I'd keep them all if I had the space! Gonna be hard letting them go that's for sure, except the one stock EX. They're all really cool bikes and fun.
@@bwxmoto The 224 would look good on the BT.
I would find it difficult to sell the 200U if it were me.
@@bwxmoto I bought a 224 Saturday. Tons to say but right off I'm not using that blower housing and long starter cup. It's getting a Hisun blower housing and starter cup. The tall fan they are using will rob a sliver of power for those running the stock flywheel.
Mine is tore down and so far I'm not that impressed. I'll be doing another mild build but this time with more compression and cam.
Yeah a lot of that doesn't seem to make sense. It has to be the different driver pullies. In this case the question should be, how do they compare with the same driver?
The Tillotson's going to do it for you. They are not a traditional "stock" small block. I don't think you will need to open it up once you ride it with a stage 1 kit. People love em.
Saturday just before dark I rode to the end of my street about 200 yards at bicycle speed. Turned around and did a full throttle then pulled up my drive. Shut the bike off and looked at my max RPM (4700). A few minutes later went out to get the mail and the police were parked a couple houses down. Someone called over one full throttle run and somewhere around 29 or 30 mph. No helmet so they knew who I was if they were looking. Someone may not like mini bikes, or me, or both. Yikes.
That sucks! Yeah I think people around here are cool must be. I think I drive right by a cop's house on these runs, but I don't too it very often. But I am all geared up and have a headlight and tail light if I ever go on the road. So maybe people just think it's a loud moped. 😆
I agree it must be something to do with the pulley change because even though the numbers might not be 100% correct all the time because of a (up to) 1 sec. delay on tach and 0.8 second on GPS, it's still very weird at times. But everything seems like normal going on flat ground or down a hill for the most part, but going up hill it makes no sense. RPM too low on 9t-60t and too high on 10t-46t.
But yeah that Tilly is going to be perfect I think. I would even be happy with a stage 1 Predator, but the bike is heavier than my Colemans so the extra power of the Tilly will be nice. 👍
I added a stage 1 kit with a .38 jet, the super pipe, and a 60T rear sprocket over the weekend. It defiantly added more low end power especially at take off. It rips right up my hills with little to no belt slippage unlike before. That TAV front pulley also makes a big difference. I might end up pulling the gov, adding 18lb valve springs over the winter and see how that changes it all. I’m not going to be racing or road riding this so I am in no rush.
Nice! Yeah I am sure a stage 1 would wake this engine right up. I wanted to test it with just the gearing change though and glad I did because it didn't act how I would have thought. I think it's because stock this engine doesn't put out more power after 3800 RPM or so.. so that's kind of the limiting factor going up a hill. And if you have lower gearing you'll be going slower. But after a power upgrade it can push past that and go faster than stock engine with taller gears on same hill. But... that's just a theory. 😆 That Tillotson revs to 5800 RPM so should be perfect for this bike and this gearing! Can't wait to try that.
That Tillotson is a healthy investment and probably above my instillation and set up level right now. I was thinking of slowly building up a predator 212 on the bench and then eventually doing the motor swap.
@@dankibler4780 Oh I’m just going to run it with stage 1 for a while. Maybe stage 2 someday but the motor has a lot of torque stock and will go 5800 RPM. which is plenty for me, for now anyways!
@@bwxmoto What RPM does a stock or stage 1 predator run at?
@@dankibler4780 Around 5,000 RPM. The Hemi on my BT200X goes about 5100 RPM with moving throttle spring all the way to the right hole (had to drill a hole).
My Hemi on the CT200U-EX is spinning much faster completely stock governor spring locations just throttle stop screw out. It goes 49 MPH with same gearing as BT (8t-60T) going 45 MPH @ 5100 RPM, so the EX Hemi must be spinning quite a bit faster than that going 49 with same gearing. Didn't have a tach to check that day.. Not sure about the CT200U Hemi, that went 51 MPH but with 9t-60t. So they're all a little different but all mine so far at least 5000 RPM with throttle stop screw out.
This J-Dong is 4800 RPM out of the box (at least mine is).
Wish I had all that to ride beautiful area
Yeah I'm pretty fortunate to have that so close to home. I just wish there was more.. I lived in a city before so I know how it is. I'm gonna upload a vid that I made today riding my new bike soon. It looks a lot different in the winter!
Or if I go 9:46
That’s hauling 🫏
that bike looks big enough to add a five speed transmission western auto used to make one with a five horse briggs easily go 60, centrifugal clutch would defiantly be an improvement
That would be super cool.
Installing 212r In my hurricane didn't want crazy power just want it reliable and 5800 rpm will be plenty
Yeah it’ll run great I’m sure. My Tillotson runs super strong.
I just got a torque converter in and the nut the holds the back pulley in everytime i tighten it the whole bike doesn’t move but when I loosen it up it does but it will slowly start to come off what’s a fix?
On the MB200-2? Did you change something? It comes with a torque converter. Mine has a castellated nut with a cotter pin through the axle.
Wow I'm jealous. I love bopping around on my BT but man do l wish for rear suspension and a better seat. I've found a KX80 seat and tank, that l'm thinking of fitting this winter. But my big swapout is for a Predator 224 and seris 30 TAV.
Yeah the rear suspension is nice. The BT is a cool bike too. I got a new seat (for BT200x) same as stock except much better foam. Helps a lot. Got it at monsterscooterparts I think. I have a 224 ready to put on the BT too! Haha.
@@bwxmoto I live in the interior of BC Canada, winter is her. My snowmobile is calling , icefishing is to! But it should only take a day to do the work on the BT which is easier to deal with. If i can ride in the snow conditions with lowered air pressure on the lake, I can tow my fishing toboggan I think.🤔
Interesting info...I have a 200cc 2 stroke Yamaha Blaster engine I am thinking about installing in my MB200...I love this bike tho..
Can't wait to see that project! That'll be pretty crazy.
im using a 51mm spitfire tablet skateboard wheel as a chain tensioner and it works awesome! i had an issue where my small chain was seized in almost every link when i unboxed my coleman ct200u, thought it wasnt a big deal i lubed the chain really well and thought it was a minor problem that would work itself out, well it only got worse and ended up damaging the metal tensioner in the process, redneck ingenuity kicked in and i used a skateboard wheel, works great, skateboard wheels are usually very hard polyurethane, and the bearing size matches that of chain tensioners, just make sure its a small wheel like 51- 53mm other wise it might be too big, and i got plenty of spares laying around
i also used extra bearings as spacers, which works great as well, and i forgot to mention above that i replaced the chain first before i installed the skateboard wheel as to not cause any further damage, skateboard wheels take a ton of abuse from skateboarders, so i have a lot of confidence in the durability of them
I looked into that and if you can get the right compound I guess they last pretty long. I ended up using the metal roller from the coleman jackshaft and some washers to lengthen the spacer and it works great and doesn’t make a lot of noise and doesn’t wear. I’m sure the right skateboard wheel would work perfectly too.
I'm gettin ready to give the 196 one last shot before I yank it off for somethin bigger. I got the 265 hot cam, 22 lb springs, thinner head gasket, billet rod and flywheel, juggernaut driver, and will eventually swap a 22 mikuni on it. if it doesn't "wake up" at that point, gonna yank it off and get a ec carbs 228. love the bike but just needs more grunt. my 212 predator bikes feel much stronger all around.
I yanked the 196cc today! I’m sure it’ll run a lot better after you get done with all that though. I can say the Tilly even stock feels a lot better. We’ll see how it runs with a super pipe, filter and jet soon.
@@bwxmoto I plan to get another trailmaster to set up strictly for trail ridin, so won't make it all pretty like my evel k bike. might just swap a 225 or 228 on it right from the get go and be done with it. I bought a short bus wit ha wheelchair lift so i can load/unload a couple bikes easy. I wanna hit some of these gambler mini bike races around the country and do some boondock campin.
@@billwilliamson9842 Wow that'll be sweet! That's one short bus I wouldn't mind riding. Haha.
Yeah I was looking at the Wildcat 223 too. Might have been better than this 212, not sure. But you have to take out the coil right from the start because it's electronically limited to 4k rpm, and I heard more than one person say the engine was ok but not great and then they blew it up. LOL. Who knows. I think this Tilly has more compression too. Seems to be pretty torquey.
Can I swap out the 10T with the 9T on the stock jackstand setup?
Yup, I did that. Just need a sprocket with a keyway. I had one from years ago. I think there's one on Amazon that would work.
Picked up a 70s yard cart last night for the flat head 5 brig's for a methanol race bike build I was going to just set the kart to the side buy after inspecting it I found that it's a pretty rare little kart so I dropped it of at a friend that does powder coating he sent me pic few mine ago after it was blasted I gave him an idea giving him pretty much free range on it
Sounds like a find. I wish I had room for more toys, an off road cart would be fun around here.
@@bwxmoto remember I'm the guy with the 30x40 full and convenience his with he needed to build a work space and in 2 weeks has bought 4 more toys that have now starting to take up space in the new shop
@@davidpayne4084 😆 Yeah man! I think no matter how much space we have, it’s never enough!
Thought it would make the motor weaker while having the 9 tooth and 60 tooth
Lower gear ratio multiplies wheel torque but limits top speed. Actually it was the driver pulley and belt length that was the problem in above vid. I have an upcoming vid that shows it if I ever get around to editing it.
There is no replacement for displacement
True..
I have the same mini bike but i put a 10 tooth clutch if i put a 60 tooth will it help me get a lil more torque or what do you recomend
Yeah a 60t sprocket will definitely help torque quite a bit.
@@bwxmoto or what do you recomend me for rear sprocket
Question, when going on journeys up country roads like that, how long can you hold full throttle without worrying about these engines blowing up? Is that a concern with these and full throttle for extended periods?
I think it would do that all day long. As long as you aren't spinning it too fast or getting it too hot, it'll do it all day. Going down the hill is where I think I might float the valves or explode the flywheel from spinning it too fast.
@@bwxmoto what kinda flywheel are you running??stock?? If so im in the process of changing to the billet flywheel i dont think you would have a problem going downhill at any speed with that on it.
@@Jayjay2020twen This Tillotson has an up-rated flywheel that apparently can do 8000 RPM for a certain number of seconds or whatever but I do not trust it. I did buy a better flywheel but it's not billet, it's cast but designed to not fly apart, think it's a PVL flywheel. Have not installed it yet though, I might install it on my Predator 224. And it's not about speed of the bike, but engine speed which may not necessarily be the same thing, but going down a big hill with this gearing on this bike it is. Plus I'd be concerned about valve float and the rod failing if running at high RPM. I feel comfortable up to about 6k rpm with this Tilly as it is now and no more.
@@Jayjay2020twen I found it, this is the one I got... www.bmikarts.com/PVL-Flywheel_p_2442.html
Instead of the stage one kit put a torque converter you won’t regret it!
It has a TC, do you mean a regular comet type TC? I've thought about that a lot, I like the way they work better than this TC setup with a jackshaft.
This looks awfully like upstate New York!
Mexico! 😉 I'd never ride my mini bike on the road in NY.
@@bwxmoto lol . Hello From Cortland!
@@ML-lg4ky /sigh, You Southern Folk! Ripping around on BT200X's about 70 miles North of you guys. Stage1 and CVT coming up soon!
@@ML-lg4ky ✋😎
You probably just needed to swap out the rear sprocket and leave the front as is and leave the pulley as is.
It turns out it was the driver pulley causing the major difference to what I was seeing on my other minibikes I put that sprocket combo on.
The stock mb200-2 driver pulley works differently than the comet or generic comet pulleys. It doesn’t close down as far.
I stuck the original mb200-2 driver on there and it works great with that jackshaft setup. But yeah it would have worked better than in this vid if I did what you said, but mainly because of the pulley.
The 9 tooth front does still help with further gearing down and helps with steep climbs even with stock pulley. 👍
That’s a good lesson in changing too many things at once and then not knowing which change(s) were good or bad for what you want to accomplish. Had me confused in that first ride!
Check out first few min of this vid (after silly intro 🙃) It’s After I figured out pulleys act a lot differently and changed it.
th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html
Governer
Not on the way up though.
Want top speed without giving up much low end torque you need to run a 10 tooth front sprocket with a 50 tooth rear run a 5.0:1 final drive ratio a 6.66:1 final drive ratio does nothing for top speed but good for low speed rock crawling.
Front driver pulley changes everything. Wait till next video.
Where did u get that back light? Thank u. Very nice 🇨🇦👍
Oh that's a "planet bike" brand bicycle tail light on Amazon. The new ones are rechargeable, that one was 2x aa cells, still works though after probably 10 years.
Just make one change at a time so you can narrow down exactly what is better and what is not. Never make multiple changes at once, you will be chasing the goal you are after without ever reaching it
Yeah at the time I didn’t realize stock driver pulley was that much different. It was definitely the driver pulley on that cvt setup acting a lot different.
@@bwxmoto Right on. I like your channel. Keep it up
@@r.r.hughes9808 Thanks, hopefully I'll start uploading again soon. I just make vids when I have something new to share basically. I want to do more mods to my minibikes, have lots of parts on the shelves to try, etc.. Just busy and whatnot. ✌
Dude u kinda sound like Nicholas cage
😆
I mean its kinda true tho
@@Just_call_me-nick Probably because The helmet pads are squishing my face and there is a microphone basically touching my mouth inside the helmet. And the helmet makes everything sound weird too. You could be right! Hard for me to tell. 😆
Nice video! Where did you get the pulley handle for starting the engine? The stock one is a little odd looking
Thanks! Check this out.. they make heavy duty cords too. www.cobrapullcords.com/collections/handles-and-acc
I just ordered 2 of them handles for my minibikes. I was out riding my mb200 earlier and my handle for the pull start got caught up on the throttle linkage and the throttle got stuck open. I had hit the kill switch. These handles should make a difference.
Will a420 fit right on it
I never tried. I think you'd need to mod some stuff.
Awesome Video man!!! Good job!!!
Appreciate it!
The torque converter is changing the ratio when you change the sprockets because it's sensing less load. I limited mine with a bushing to keep it from closing too far. I run a 60T rear sprocket. If you want to wake that engine up, I took 0.075" off of the head. Still runs fine on regular gas and has way more torque. To get TAV's to work right takes some tuning - at least for me.
With the engine stepped up it goes through belts. Next will be a larger TAV.
The stock MB200-2 driver with bearings act differently compared to the regular TAV driver pulley. Also same gear ratio on a different bike with regular TAV2 30 with plate acts completely different. Belt size and distance between pulleys is different as well. There's a lot of different things making it act different. I changed back to MB200-2 pulley and it acts a lot more like a regular TAV2 30 with that longer 725 belt they have on there. A shorter "725" belt from Amazon makes it feel like it is geared lower too. I don't put all the testing I do in a vid. Check latest MB200-2 vids on this channel to see the difference just the driver pulley makes.
Check this same up hill run with the stock driver pulley back on at 6m 10 sec in vid in link th-cam.com/video/ZfFfDGZuy_M/w-d-xo.html Yeah I have a Superpipe on there but the driver is letting engine spin up more at a given speed and doesn't spread out all the way either like a TAV2 pulley. It works I think because of the distance between pulleys and belt length of this setup compared to a TAV2 system mounted to the plate. Also that rear jackshaft on the MB200-2 might be flexing a little.
@@bwxmoto Your experience is much like mine was. I ended up moving the spring on the driven to the tightest of the three settings. After a bit of tuning and tweaking to include gearing it ran great. The problem was once it was dialed in for optimum performance belt life was about 30 minutes or so.
I ran the 196cc with 0.075" turned off of the head, stock carb with 140 emulsion tube and drilled main jet. Ran a 12" header with hot dog muffler. With the compression increase the 196cc engine ran pretty good.
One problem I had was the belt would climb up so high on the front driver pulley that it sucked it into the void area on the driven pulley. There are rivets that hold the sheeves to the hubs and it would suck the belt into them and lock up immediately locking up the rear tire into a skid. That's where the front limiting bushing on the driver pulley came into use.
Next build will be with a Briggs & Stratton 250cc engine, Mikuni carb, header and compression boost. That will mean also a more robust torque converter.
Another thing I did was put some 3/4" aluminum bar stock under the engine raise it up. That made the chain geometry correct with regard to the rear swing arm angle. Also moved the rear shocks to lower the back of the bike a little, to flatten the swing arm more for better chain geometry. Didn't need an idler pulley that way, worked out well.
Be careful bro.