Emily, I put a fiberglass end on my oars. A) it protects the oar blade when you are pushing off a rock or a dock, and B) it protects a glued up blade from splitting as yours did.
Dynel cloth works even better than fibreglass. It'd more abrasion resistant. Which is why it's so popular with kayakers, for both paddle tips and the underside of kayaks.
I find a clear coat of epoxy before the finishing coat of paint, varnish or cetol, gives a much longer coating life. There is less moisture damage to the underlying wood so the surface coat hangs in there a lot longer. In addition, it is easier to recoat after a light sanding so the epoxy layer remains intact. Epoxy is sensitive to UV, so you definitely have to coat it with something that gives UV protection.
I discovered U.S. Composites resin years ago when I was an avid wood Turner. Half the price of West system but just as good. I used the same wood flour for doing the fillets on my homemade dinghy. Saved a lot of money using those two products instead of West.
Hi Emily. Very nice work my friend. I used to use painters tape for the same reason. I’ve since switched to mylar tape like used to ship boxes with better results. Something to consider when you run out of tape.🤙
I like these types of videos where you do practical things so maybe you can expand on the knots and tie some fancy knots on the oars I guess its called ornamental knots or something like that.
Back in the good old days when the best marine glue was a powder that was mixed with water the advised technique was to wet one surface, lay in a strip of cotton cloth, wet that, wet the closing surface and bring the parts together. The cotton served to strengthen the glue line. I think that the technique is still valid particularly when the surface are not a close match.
Hi Emily, good job on fixing the Oars. I restored a couple on a video 2 years ago and mine were one piece which was way easier. I sanded them down and Varathaned them. The oar lock pin/clamps were spray painted with a metallic dark brown which came out cool👍
I save jars of sawdust and fine power. When I epoxy clamp pieces together then I smooth and sprinkle the epoxy that is squeezing out with the sawdust. rub it into the seam with finger (gloved) and when dry sand you won't even see the split.
I have a thought that pieces of tape with different colors are better than marking with numbers. Place the pieces of tape so that they can be removed after it has hardened.
Epoxy , is great & when done right , super strong & easy... 1 - apply (part of) the A&B mixed epoxy....(slow part B)...reduce it a bit with epoxy thinners to pre prepared surfaces so that it soakes into the grain of the timber....then wait a bit & go back to the start & apply neat epoxy from the original mix over again , then add fortifying powder to the original mix to a peanut paste consistently (not mayanase)so it doesn't run away , then apply it to the surfaces (like your putting mortar onto a brick)you slide & drag the applicator along the edge , leaving a small epoxy mountain range along all mating surfaces , then , clamp / clean / done....then next day quick sand , varnish , & ENJOY....cheers
i agree, we thin 20 percent with acetone for first coat on wood as it soaks in good. we thicken with flox for glueing as cabo is too hard to sand but adding the wood flour will help in this regard. for interior work we cover with varnish but out side should be uv proofed, paint? clear shipping tape is good, wont stick and cheap
I was wondering what you were going to do with that old flare? Maybe torch the oars in case the epoxy didn't kick off? LOL. Love your aluminum boat dingy too.
Not that old actually. I think I bought them new in about 2012. I've re-varnished them once but that's the only care they have gotten into Emily did her project. Looks like they used wood glue. It's good for a while but...
I would of used wood glue and wooden dowels to hold them in place then cover the paddles with fibreglass to stop sea water into wood thats me Emily and how clark doing now and you .
NO MECHANICAL CLAMPS REQUIRED, just Masking, Packing or Fibreglass tape. After the contact surfaces are fitted, run a piece of well adhered tape down the length of the (well fitted/parallel) joint, Then the joint may be opened up on the opposite side like a book with the tape acting like a binding or hinge. While cracked open the epoxy or glue can be applied to the opened joint, closed up and finally entire circumference of paddle wrapped with progressive layers of tape to apply ''increasing'' clamping pressure with each layer of tape. This method also leaves zero cleanup required on one side of glue joint.
![Recharge a Boat REFRIGERATOR [Capable Cruising Guides]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tc3N6lzZIjY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Recharge a Boat REFRIGERATOR [Capable Cruising Guides]](/img/tr.png)
Emily, I put a fiberglass end on my oars. A) it protects the oar blade when you are pushing off a rock or a dock, and B) it protects a glued up blade from splitting as yours did.
Dynel cloth works even better than fibreglass. It'd more abrasion resistant. Which is why it's so popular with kayakers, for both paddle tips and the underside of kayaks.
I find a clear coat of epoxy before the finishing coat of paint, varnish or cetol, gives a much longer coating life. There is less moisture damage to the underlying wood so the surface coat hangs in there a lot longer. In addition, it is easier to recoat after a light sanding so the epoxy layer remains intact.
Epoxy is sensitive to UV, so you definitely have to coat it with something that gives UV protection.
I discovered U.S. Composites resin years ago when I was an avid wood Turner. Half the price of West system but just as good. I used the same wood flour for doing the fillets on my homemade dinghy. Saved a lot of money using those two products instead of West.
Looking forward to the next(last) vid of the dinghy build ⚒
Hi Emily. Very nice work my friend. I used to use painters tape for the same reason. I’ve since switched to mylar tape like used to ship boxes with better results. Something to consider when you run out of tape.🤙
I like these types of videos where you do practical things so maybe you can expand on the knots and tie some fancy knots on the oars I guess its called ornamental knots or something like that.
Back in the good old days when the best marine glue was a powder that was mixed with water the advised technique was to wet one surface, lay in a strip of cotton cloth, wet that, wet the closing surface and bring the parts together. The cotton served to strengthen the glue line. I think that the technique is still valid particularly when the surface are not a close match.
Yes I use fibreglass that way sometimes. -C
Hi Emily, good job on fixing the Oars. I restored a couple on a video 2 years ago and mine were one piece which was way easier. I sanded them down and Varathaned them. The oar lock pin/clamps were spray painted with a metallic dark brown which came out cool👍
Nice job Emilly and o mg you can row straight
i had to put a 3OZ fishing wait in my wife left ear it kept her strait i had 10 oz in my right ear
I like the varnish look too or cetol good job
Thanks.
I save jars of sawdust and fine power. When I epoxy clamp pieces together then I smooth and sprinkle the epoxy that is squeezing out with the sawdust. rub it into the seam with finger (gloved) and when dry sand you won't even see the split.
Yes, nothing matches as well as dust from the very wood you are sanding.
I have a thought that pieces of tape with different colors are better than marking with numbers. Place the pieces of tape so that they can be removed after it has hardened.
Epoxy , is great & when done right , super strong & easy...
1 - apply (part of) the A&B mixed epoxy....(slow part B)...reduce it a bit with epoxy thinners to pre prepared surfaces so that it soakes into the grain of the timber....then wait a bit & go back to the start & apply neat epoxy from the original mix over again , then add fortifying powder to the original mix to a peanut paste consistently (not mayanase)so it doesn't run away , then apply it to the surfaces (like your putting mortar onto a brick)you slide & drag the applicator along the edge , leaving a small epoxy mountain range along all mating surfaces , then , clamp / clean / done....then next day quick sand , varnish , & ENJOY....cheers
i agree, we thin 20 percent with acetone for first coat on wood as it soaks in good. we thicken with flox for glueing as cabo is too hard to sand but adding the wood flour will help in this regard. for interior work we cover with varnish but out side should be uv proofed, paint? clear shipping tape is good, wont stick and cheap
love the vids, keep them up 1 million subs for you guys
I was wondering what you were going to do with that old flare? Maybe torch the oars in case the epoxy didn't kick off? LOL. Love your aluminum boat dingy too.
You're awesome
You and Clark are multi-talented! Is there anything you can't do on that boat of yours? Surgery maybe :)
th-cam.com/video/Bhtij3djQqg/w-d-xo.html
I'll bet they have done minor surgery before.
WoW beautiful work :-) how old are those oars ? Sail safe the both of you .
Not that old actually. I think I bought them new in about 2012. I've re-varnished them once but that's the only care they have gotten into Emily did her project. Looks like they used wood glue. It's good for a while but...
Better to just mix by weight with a kitchen scale. Easy!
I would of used wood glue and wooden dowels to hold them in place then cover the paddles with fibreglass to stop sea water into wood thats me Emily and how clark doing now and you .
Awesome... pardon the pun lol
NO MECHANICAL CLAMPS REQUIRED, just Masking, Packing or Fibreglass tape. After the contact surfaces are fitted, run a piece of well adhered tape down the length of the (well fitted/parallel) joint, Then the joint may be opened up on the opposite side like a book with the tape acting like a binding or hinge. While cracked open the epoxy or glue can be applied to the opened joint, closed up and finally entire circumference of paddle wrapped with progressive layers of tape to apply ''increasing'' clamping pressure with each layer of tape. This method also leaves zero cleanup required on one side of glue joint.
Get the epoxy and filler to like peanut butter then it won't run and seep out.
Why that thumbnail?
I'll give you two guesses.
Ask TH-cam, not Emily...