OUTSTANDING instructional video! I've had this upstairs (unbuilt) in a closet for over 10yrs and always planned on making it R/C & light up, but it's great to see your mods as well. :)
As a Multimedia Studies major, great video! Not only have you covered every question I might have had, you arranged it into a very professionally edited video. Great pacing, great narration, great work!
You guys put together very, very realistic models! But, my favorite one is your cracking in half ship. You guys give great tips about modeling, cracking your models, ice berg damage, all that stuff. I would like to say that you guys inspired me by your modeling and models you created! Thank you Rapidnadion.
@TheTitanicSpecialist Glad you're inspired, friend! Diagonal cuts are tricky, as the hull halves tend to get caught on one another - but please make one of your own! Friendly competition is awesome, as it makes everyone strive to improve!
@bg22116 The first time we built one of these, it was just for display also (and it still sits proudly on a display shelf near our shipyard). That took us about a year and a half as well. :) We don't use the same number of bulkheads because it simplifies the building process. The berg damage completely renders #1-5 bulkheads irrelevant, so they don't need to be there. The important ones for our purposes are amidships and aft.
You've inspired me to convert my Minicraft Titanic into an ocean-going model. It won't split in half, but I decided to be bold and try to recreate the interior bulkhead design of the real ship. The result is that it settles very slowly and has a good "headstand" before it sinks. Like, about 15 minutes from water flooding the forward well deck to the bridge going under.
I have that model. I made over 30 "watertight" compartments. I honestly don't remember how many are in there. Mine doesn't split or anything. My goal was to create a model that would sink like a real ship. At the slowest possible rate. She takes a full 15 mins to sink. and goes down by the head. I found you can control the angle that it goes down by creating lower bulkheads with ceilings with another layer of bulkheads just below D deck. Drilling holes in strategic spots and different heights.
hi guys, i got this from a 2nd hand shop near where i live pre-assembled, although the builder assembled the model as the olympic-but it wouldn't take long to change to titanic specs. love the detailing on your models by the way,brilliant effort,keep up the good work.
You are most welcome! You can actually make cuts like a jigsaw in curves and shapes. I really enjoyed your video. Pretty amazing. Really good job. I just found my mini craft model that I started back in 95 an it sits half done. cant wait to finsh it now. thanks for the vid.
Just an FYI, Dremel makes some rotary tool wheels specifically for cutting plastic that make much cleaner cuts. Also, if your tool has a speed control, using the lowest speed can help you avoid the plastic melting you got.
@lyman2129 Probably varies depending on your personal preference. We considered a bandsaw. You want to make the thinnest, cleanest cut possible - even with a steady hand on the Dremel, it wasn't pretty.
@Pairjira They sure do; that's pretty much how we left it. On the intact Titanic, we drilled out a hole on the fantail where the stern anchor hawser was (we think), to allow air to escape, but it wasn't necessary given all the holes left in the deck for rigging, so we didn't repeat that on the splitting version. As long as there are one or two of those tiny rigging pinholes left open, air will still be able to escape.
@cheshirepuss1 Magnets (and electro-magnets) were one of the many approaches we considered. In the end, the added bonus of smoke and sparks from the pyro system overcame all of its inconveniences.
@tigerxwild123 Well, opinions may vary ... but we don't think we got it right until this past weekend, when we shot our newest Titanic video. "Model Titanic Sinks & Splits." We're pretty happy with it.
I've been pondering on an alternative separation mechanism, and this is what I could think of: Instead of relying on a fancy hi-tech thing, have a swinging pendulum in the bow with a circular hook connecting to a loop secured to the stern. Shorten or lengthen the hook to the angle you want the ship to break at, and let gravity and physics do the rest. However, the weight of the two halves might make enough friction to freaze it. Another: electromagnets and a remote. Con: computers Pro: lights
Thanks a lot for making this video. I always wanted a sinking model of the titanic. Also question,if I raise the bulkheads to the highest point possible for sinking, will it sink slower.
@TitanicMasta At this scale, the smaller number of compartments doesn't make much of a difference in flooding behavior. It also simplifies construction somewhat. Thanks for the compliment!
@ThePhantomFanatic We should have included that in the video - the build time was something like 35-40 days, actually. We had a lot of design work to do (and re-designs, when certain things didn't work out). Thanks for the compliment!
@Titanic2me The hull sections were supposed to separate cleanly, but in each of the sinkings done thus far, they've been held together by remnants of the rubber band. We also had a magnetic strap on the bottom in one of these videos, but that played no role in keeping the hull together.
@141natedogg On this model, we used CA glues of various brands, Testors model cement, and caulk. The CA glue (superglue) is a lifesaver, though; instant drying is the way to go!
@AsylumKid1 Yes. If you're a beginner, it would probably be best to first build an intact sinking Titanic model. The Revell 18" version is a simpler build and is well-suited for this. It's the one we started out with.
A great conclusion of the project! One day, I´ll try to make a model like this...but perhaps even more advanced ;-) (larger break-up area, not just a straight cut but several diagonal cuts , if possible, so it looks even more realistic ) You sure have inspired me!
All of the enamels and spray paints we use are water proof on their own; no clear coating is required. Generally we stick to Krylon outdoor paint on the spray side, and Testors enamel for brush on.
@RapidNadion Great job as usual. I have to say, your dioramas of the Titanic are getting more and more intricate. I still remember you being the main reason of me getting a TH-cam account, just to ask if you would sell one to me. :) I wish you good luck with any more Titanic projects you care to create.
@snailwithalimp123 The voiceover says it right in the beginning at 0:50 - you can find them on eBay, like we did, or you can simply Google "Academy-Minicraft Titanic" and look in the shopping results, or you might be able to find them in your local hobby shop. Friends, do you mind voting this comment up?
random question: Why was a 1:350 chosen instead of 1:1200? I'm no modeler, so I don't even know what these numbers mean, but I was curious about the decision of the varying difference...
@jasper1999ify We had to make some sacrifices when we shot the sinkings. The #3 and #4 funnels were falling over every time we tried to shoot, and with their safety strings, it was a real pain to get them back on. So we glued them on when we started running out of time and called it a compromise. :-/
@FalloutMafias You can probably R/C-ify almost anything! A gunship C-130 would be pretty awesome, but we're mainly focused on water craft at the moment. Maybe in the future!
@Aprosarmostos94 Thank you for the compliment! It would be very difficult to send this model overseas, and it's not currently for sale, unfortunately. But you can get an Academy-Minicraft kit like this and modify it to sink! Just Google "Minicraft Titanic" to find the kit.
@TitanicBismarck1987 Not sure exactly how much ballast is inside this one, otherwise we'd have included it in the video. It requires a trial-and-error kind of approach.
When you mentioned leaving a small hole after sealing the poop deck so that air gets trapped but still sinks in the verticle way, do the small holes where where the ratlines and rigging go also help?
would be better to use a fine dremel cutter in a speed controlled dremel and cut from the inside. and don't cut all the way through. make the cut till the plastic is paper then . then just snap it. this make a thin line that is not only hard to see when the two pieces are together but will make the hull a bit more realistic. this is how I cut the iceberg damage on my raise the Titanic model
That is very cool!!!!! I'd like to see you guys try to build a U.S.S Arizona and modify it to blow up and sink. That would make a cool Pearl Harbor movie
@ericpierre53 This was a very involved project and we probably won't be building another one; over time, we'll continue to make new videos with this model, however.
@DamianReport in a model shop i bought a 22.2cm long R.M.S Titanic and it was only £6.00 not sure what it is in dollors but in pounds thats how much. Plus when you take it out of the box you have to make it but you dont really use glue (Paint not included).You have to get paint and paint it from memory since the instructions are in black and white.
Did you use special paint, so the paint doesn't come off of your model, when it is in the water or did you clear coat it and didnt mention it in the video? Or are all paints water proof? Please answer
@starwarsfandude Not quite sure what you're referring to - what hole is frayed? If you'd like to go into more detail or post some pictures, shoot us a wall post on our Facebook page (username RapidNadion).
Here's a what the fuck request/challenge: Is it possible to make a model that actually splits? I don't mean split by a control, I mean a model made with a certain amount a weight and a certain material that wouldn't be strong enough to support the ship on end and would break apart during sinking. I know it'd be very hard (I'm not an expert in model making so for all I know it could be impossible) and I know the model could only be used once, but I think it'd be so cool it'd be kind of worth it.
@Rapidnadion Ah. I guess trying to install a propeller shaft as well as a motor, radio, and rudder servos in something that not only sinks intentionally, but breaks in half would be tricky. As is it's quit interesting as I've only seen one Titanic model of that size break in half and sink. It was an intentional sinking but we never got that Titanic back. Mainly because the lake was far deeper than we thought and that we didn't care as long as the method of sinking worked which it did.
Oh agreed; it would certainly be amazing from an engineering standpoint. But it would also have to be so thinly-hulled that it would be impossible to transport.
exactly how much would it cost to buy one of your model ships or have you personally help with one? please reply rapid nation. Bonus: try to test one at night but see if you can make it light up and turn off lights with a controller like the rubber band thing that would be an excillant video and or model but i am not really experienced model builder so it may be impossible. again please reply.
5:08. "If your compartment bulkheads are too high, your ship won't sink."
Sounds like something they should have put into consideration 100 years ago.
OUTSTANDING instructional video! I've had this upstairs (unbuilt) in a closet for over 10yrs and always planned on making it R/C & light up, but it's great to see your mods as well. :)
As a Multimedia Studies major, great video!
Not only have you covered every question I might have had, you arranged it into a very professionally edited video. Great pacing, great narration, great work!
You guys put together very, very realistic models! But, my favorite one is your cracking in half ship. You guys give great tips about modeling, cracking your models, ice berg damage, all that stuff. I would like to say that you guys inspired me by your modeling and models you created! Thank you Rapidnadion.
I wish everything in life had an instructional video like this. Well done!
@ChaseFilms8 Yes; the damage was given texture and depth with several layers of gray, white, and black paint.
You guys should make a sinking Britannic model! 😃
@TheTitanicSpecialist Glad you're inspired, friend! Diagonal cuts are tricky, as the hull halves tend to get caught on one another - but please make one of your own! Friendly competition is awesome, as it makes everyone strive to improve!
@bg22116 The first time we built one of these, it was just for display also (and it still sits proudly on a display shelf near our shipyard). That took us about a year and a half as well. :)
We don't use the same number of bulkheads because it simplifies the building process. The berg damage completely renders #1-5 bulkheads irrelevant, so they don't need to be there. The important ones for our purposes are amidships and aft.
You've inspired me to convert my Minicraft Titanic into an ocean-going model. It won't split in half, but I decided to be bold and try to recreate the interior bulkhead design of the real ship. The result is that it settles very slowly and has a good "headstand" before it sinks. Like, about 15 minutes from water flooding the forward well deck to the bridge going under.
Jesus you sir have some amazing creativity that must've taken a long time turned out to be an amazing video!
@philipfry4073 So glad to be of help! Thanks for watching!
I have that model. I made over 30 "watertight" compartments. I honestly don't remember how many are in there. Mine doesn't split or anything. My goal was to create a model that would sink like a real ship. At the slowest possible rate. She takes a full 15 mins to sink. and goes down by the head. I found you can control the angle that it goes down by creating lower bulkheads with ceilings with another layer of bulkheads just below D deck. Drilling holes in strategic spots and different heights.
Sadly, the amount of time and money invested in a model such as that would require us to first ask you for around $2000. :(
hi guys,
i got this from a 2nd hand shop near where i live pre-assembled, although the builder assembled the model as the olympic-but it wouldn't take long to change to titanic specs.
love the detailing on your models by the way,brilliant effort,keep up the good work.
+Rapidnadion how do you do the scuff marks on the iceberg damage? I'm getting a model and not do the hull cut... How do you do the scuff??
1:350 is a larger model, which allows for a better scale recreation.
@Jakanddaxter1999 We might tweak it a bit going forward. We'll have to see how things go as we set up for another round of filming.
@TheWannaBeNerd1912 We're definitely going to try to get a definitive Model Titanic SPLITS out there before the 100th, yes.
You are most welcome! You can actually make cuts like a jigsaw in curves and shapes.
I really enjoyed your video. Pretty amazing. Really good job.
I just found my mini craft model that I started back in 95 an it sits half done. cant wait to finsh it now. thanks for the vid.
Just an FYI, Dremel makes some rotary tool wheels specifically for cutting plastic that make much cleaner cuts. Also, if your tool has a speed control, using the lowest speed can help you avoid the plastic melting you got.
@lyman2129 Probably varies depending on your personal preference. We considered a bandsaw. You want to make the thinnest, cleanest cut possible - even with a steady hand on the Dremel, it wasn't pretty.
@Pairjira They sure do; that's pretty much how we left it. On the intact Titanic, we drilled out a hole on the fantail where the stern anchor hawser was (we think), to allow air to escape, but it wasn't necessary given all the holes left in the deck for rigging, so we didn't repeat that on the splitting version. As long as there are one or two of those tiny rigging pinholes left open, air will still be able to escape.
thumbs up if you think that the model he just made is the best sinking simulation of the titanic
@cheshirepuss1 Magnets (and electro-magnets) were one of the many approaches we considered. In the end, the added bonus of smoke and sparks from the pyro system overcame all of its inconveniences.
Depends on how you scratch-build it; it's not a part of the original kit.
0:10 - "This video documents how to convert the *Academy-Minicraft* 1:350-scale R.M.S. Titanic model ..." :)
@hongrand Depends where we sink it. Usually not more than 6 feet.
@GreekGodJonathan Not sure we understand the question. This was a kit that we built and then modified. Is that what you mean?
@tigerxwild123 Well, opinions may vary ... but we don't think we got it right until this past weekend, when we shot our newest Titanic video. "Model Titanic Sinks & Splits." We're pretty happy with it.
I've been pondering on an alternative separation mechanism, and this is what I could think of:
Instead of relying on a fancy hi-tech thing, have a swinging pendulum in the bow with a circular hook connecting to a loop secured to the stern. Shorten or lengthen the hook to the angle you want the ship to break at, and let gravity and physics do the rest. However, the weight of the two halves might make enough friction to freaze it.
Another: electromagnets and a remote. Con: computers Pro: lights
Thanks a lot for making this video. I always wanted a sinking model of the titanic. Also question,if I raise the bulkheads to the highest point possible for sinking, will it sink slower.
@TitanicMasta At this scale, the smaller number of compartments doesn't make much of a difference in flooding behavior. It also simplifies construction somewhat. Thanks for the compliment!
@ThePhantomFanatic We should have included that in the video - the build time was something like 35-40 days, actually. We had a lot of design work to do (and re-designs, when certain things didn't work out). Thanks for the compliment!
@Titanic2me The hull sections were supposed to separate cleanly, but in each of the sinkings done thus far, they've been held together by remnants of the rubber band. We also had a magnetic strap on the bottom in one of these videos, but that played no role in keeping the hull together.
@141natedogg On this model, we used CA glues of various brands, Testors model cement, and caulk. The CA glue (superglue) is a lifesaver, though; instant drying is the way to go!
@AsylumKid1 Yes. If you're a beginner, it would probably be best to first build an intact sinking Titanic model. The Revell 18" version is a simpler build and is well-suited for this. It's the one we started out with.
@Finster1998138 Thanks very much - we're happy to hear our videos motivated you to get a TH-cam account, and that you're enjoying the new ones!
@TK42138 Thanks! Yeah, we tried several approaches, and this was the one we settled on. It has its drawbacks, but the funnel smoke can't be beat. :)
this has been so intresting to follow and watch, and now i can try it for myself! thanks you guys, and im looking foward to more vids to come!!
Thanks for the additional background informations,...
@britannic192 Wow - you watched it so fast, you beat us to it! We haven't even finalized the post-processing yet! :)
@brickman1999 No, but this is the largest one that's widely available. The more space you have to work with, the better, generally speaking.
@britannic192 Haha - congrats; you just did! All right - headed to bed feeling accomplished. Thanks for being the late-night Positivity Squad, guys!
@BigHrdB Best compliment we've had in a while. Thank you! Can we suggest you build a new model like you want to? It's never too late!
A great conclusion of the project!
One day, I´ll try to make a model like this...but perhaps even more advanced ;-) (larger break-up area, not just a straight cut but several diagonal cuts , if possible, so it looks even more realistic ) You sure have inspired me!
I'm making this.
But is it better to just leave the splitting part out if you are a beginner?
All of the enamels and spray paints we use are water proof on their own; no clear coating is required. Generally we stick to Krylon outdoor paint on the spray side, and Testors enamel for brush on.
@RapidNadion Great job as usual. I have to say, your dioramas of the Titanic are getting more and more intricate. I still remember you being the main reason of me getting a TH-cam account, just to ask if you would sell one to me. :) I wish you good luck with any more Titanic projects you care to create.
Will look forward to seeing that!
@Friendo1231 Wow - first we've heard of it! We'll definitely check it out - thanks for the referral!
@TheMorur Could you re-phrase the question?
Glad to hear it!
@MrDMTVProductionz It sure would. It would also take an amazing amount of time and effort. Maybe someday, but no time soon. :)
1:350 is about as big as they get in kit form. :(
@snailwithalimp123 The voiceover says it right in the beginning at 0:50 - you can find them on eBay, like we did, or you can simply Google "Academy-Minicraft Titanic" and look in the shopping results, or you might be able to find them in your local hobby shop. Friends, do you mind voting this comment up?
very very very cool! i am still smiling.
a very good idea and it works fantastic.
What is the next one? apollo 13?
oh man it´s so cool!
@nenxe Much appreciated!
random question:
Why was a 1:350 chosen instead of 1:1200?
I'm no modeler, so I don't even know what these numbers mean, but I was curious about the decision of the varying difference...
@jasper1999ify We had to make some sacrifices when we shot the sinkings. The #3 and #4 funnels were falling over every time we tried to shoot, and with their safety strings, it was a real pain to get them back on. So we glued them on when we started running out of time and called it a compromise. :-/
great job guy. it looks great
@BigDenny1020 Wow - electromagnets are a very cool idea. It wouldn't be "a simpler way," necessarily, but it sure would be as cool or cooler!
what do you use to paint just a brush it is very neat painting
you guys rock its amazing,all the videos are cool great efforts!!!!
this video is amazing and you really described everything in detail and that is cool
@FalloutMafias You can probably R/C-ify almost anything! A gunship C-130 would be pretty awesome, but we're mainly focused on water craft at the moment. Maybe in the future!
The detail is absolutly FANTASTIC! The whole thing is amazing and my guess of estamite time a week?
@Aprosarmostos94 Thank you for the compliment! It would be very difficult to send this model overseas, and it's not currently for sale, unfortunately. But you can get an Academy-Minicraft kit like this and modify it to sink! Just Google "Minicraft Titanic" to find the kit.
is there a video on how to make the 18 in. revell titanic spilt?
@bzzymatt WWII is still a little too soon ... we try not to do any disaster replication more recent than 1920.
@TitanicBismarck1987 Not sure exactly how much ballast is inside this one, otherwise we'd have included it in the video. It requires a trial-and-error kind of approach.
@Films0R0Us Hey, thanks! :)
Wow - great tip! Thanks!
Trial and error is part of the process. Keep on working at it and trying new approaches until you find a solution!
When you mentioned leaving a small hole after sealing the poop deck so that air gets trapped but still sinks in the verticle way, do the small holes where where the ratlines and rigging go also help?
@starwarsfandude Can you replace the line with something more durable or more elastic?
would be better to use a fine dremel cutter in a speed controlled dremel and cut from the inside. and don't cut all the way through. make the cut till the plastic is paper then . then just snap it. this make a thin line that is not only hard to see when the two pieces are together but will make the hull a bit more realistic. this is how I cut the iceberg damage on my raise the Titanic model
That is very cool!!!!! I'd like to see you guys try to build a U.S.S Arizona and modify it to blow up and sink. That would make a cool Pearl Harbor movie
@superbirne1 Thanks very much.
@ericpierre53 This was a very involved project and we probably won't be building another one; over time, we'll continue to make new videos with this model, however.
@ankbmm Many thanks!
@DamianReport in a model shop i bought a 22.2cm long R.M.S Titanic and it was only £6.00 not sure what it is in dollors but in pounds thats how much. Plus when you take it out of the box you have to make it but you dont really use glue (Paint not included).You have to get paint and paint it from memory since the instructions are in black and white.
Absolutely.
Did you use special paint, so the paint doesn't come off of your model, when it is in the water or did you clear coat it and didnt mention it in the video? Or are all paints water proof? Please answer
@aquelescaraaaaaaaaaa CA glue (superglue), epoxy, and model cement, as well as the caulk discussed in the video.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!! I have built a Lego version of the Titanic, And I took your advice, And it sinks very well! Thank you Very Much!!!!
@sachin1996ish Thanks! Have patience - it'll all come together.
@sacramentolove Many people on TH-cam have done paper/cardboard models - we're sure some of them could help you out!
Amazing and Fascinating! Keep up the good work! :)
@starwarsfandude Not quite sure what you're referring to - what hole is frayed? If you'd like to go into more detail or post some pictures, shoot us a wall post on our Facebook page (username RapidNadion).
Here's a what the fuck request/challenge: Is it possible to make a model that actually splits? I don't mean split by a control, I mean a model made with a certain amount a weight and a certain material that wouldn't be strong enough to support the ship on end and would break apart during sinking. I know it'd be very hard (I'm not an expert in model making so for all I know it could be impossible) and I know the model could only be used once, but I think it'd be so cool it'd be kind of worth it.
@Rapidnadion Ah. I guess trying to install a propeller shaft as well as a motor, radio, and rudder servos in something that not only sinks intentionally, but breaks in half would be tricky. As is it's quit interesting as I've only seen one Titanic model of that size break in half and sink. It was an intentional sinking but we never got that Titanic back. Mainly because the lake was far deeper than we thought and that we didn't care as long as the method of sinking worked which it did.
@pokemonHG2010 Thank you!
@ThatDisneyKid Thank you!
Perfect, but a question ... Where do they sell this model? In truth I do not mind split in two, but even so, I would like that model ...
Oh agreed; it would certainly be amazing from an engineering standpoint. But it would also have to be so thinly-hulled that it would be impossible to transport.
exactly how much would it cost to buy one of your model ships or have you personally help with one? please reply rapid nation. Bonus: try to test one at night but see if you can make it light up and turn off lights with a controller like the rubber band thing that would be an excillant video and or model but i am not really experienced model builder so it may be impossible. again please reply.
whats the most difficult thing youve built (as u said in the video), please post a vid of it
Thats SO fucking cool. Very very amazing work!
@philipfry4073 Awesome! Good luck on the build!