Your videos are some of my favorites your work arounds/modification to improve older bikes are the best. I'm like you originally is not important to me. When I restored my 1959 Cushman Eagle if it improved on stock I modified for reliability. Mike
I thought about doing something similar with a B40 front wheel, which seems to be identical to that Victor one. In the end I bought a CB550 front end and wheel for the sake of less faffing about ( it's a road bike, so weight isn't an issue - plus it'll help to prevent wheelies when the 20bhp of the SS90 motor kicks in :)) ) I've got a set of late pre OIF T100 forks that'll eventually replace the Honda ones, once I can afford a twin leader to go in them...
Michael the next time you are doing a parting operation,try putting your parting tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse.Works great for me. Bob
I have had that mentioned before but have not tried it. Now I have a much bigger Colchester lathe and it parts with no difficulty at all. It's amazing what extra weight and rigidity does for a lathe.
Ahhh, thought I recognised that accent - a Boro lad like myself. Hope you are enjoying your retirement. I am about to start on the restoration of my '67 BSA Lightning so may need your expert guidance!
Good luck. I live NE of you in NY State. This is the first year in 16 years where we had more than four inches of snow THREE TIMES by this time of year.
I see you are parting gingerly. I now take a good bite and plough through. I find it works better. Learned that from John Mills ("doubleboost" channel). It puts the tool under so much pressure it can't chatter. It is a little frightening at first.
Hello again. The biggest problem was the lightweight lathe. I now have a Colchester Master 13x36 and I can just wind the tool into steel even without a worry.
Hi Michael, I love your videos. very informative! I have a 1967 BSA Victor Roadster, the road going version of the B44. I am thinking of lowering the bike 4-5 inches, which is easy to do for the rear. How much modification and machining would be required to lower the front? I think it would be just the top triple tree machined out to free the forks to slide up above the neck. Would that do it?
If you are going to use the BSA top yoke you will have to modify it to clamp onto the fork stantion. I did that to fit the Yamaha 650 forks into the Norton top yoke on the Nortaha. I can't remember which episode it was but if you go back and find it it will show how I did it.
As you didn't put a recess in the bushings for the new headraces, what prevent the new bearing races from falling into the frame. That would be rather a significant emotional event for the driver it happens to.
As Richard mentions the seat for the original bearing is wide enough to support the sleeve and the new bearing. I should have shown a shot down into the headstock. Well, we live and learn. Thank you both for watching.
Hi I know this is not in this video but I can’t find exactly the video you described what welder u bought ac dc tig can u tell me or what video explaining why cheers
It is an HTP Invertig 221. It received good reviews from the welders on the internet that I trust. Then I saw a video of a chap dismantling one and looking at the electrical components. They were all good quality items. The unit is made in Italy I think.
how would put a disc brake ona 1960 b40 .it was 21 c today and in gos under 15 c we move north . Saw my fill on cold weather in England .iyou would of move some where warm like come from the north vik
I would say put the forks and front wheel off a Yamaha XS650 in the BSA frame. They work well and are pretty common. Also they look very good on the older bikes. You can see my Royal Enfield fitted with those forks in the gallery on my website. I am too old to move again so I just spend the winter by the wood stove.
If you measure from the shock mounts you will be about 6mm further from the drive side mount than from the timing side one. Best thing to do is take off the tank and lay a straight edge down the centre of the top frame tube to the rear wheel. The wheel centre should be on the same line.
You might find parting easier if you are brave and put the tool under more load. A heavier cut keeps the loading more consistent and, all other things being equal, prevent chatter. Failing that, it might be worth watching Joe Pie's "treatise" on basic parting: th-cam.com/video/5LtYzjR1JuM/w-d-xo.html I favour a parting tool with built in top rake and the use of power feed(with hand hovering over operating lever) but not all lathes are suitable for that.
I checked tool height etc for the second cut but all seemed correct. You are probably right about applying more pressure but it just seems counter intuitive so you tend to shy away from trying it. Of course I could buy a bigger lathe with some heft to it and a power cross feed and solve the problem that way, but unfortunately I have to eat . But I am keeping my eyes open. Thank you for watching and taking the time to provide a comment.
Your videos are some of my favorites your work arounds/modification to improve older bikes are the best. I'm like you originally is not important to me. When I restored my 1959 Cushman Eagle if it improved on stock I modified for reliability. Mike
I thought about doing something similar with a B40 front wheel, which seems to be identical to that Victor one.
In the end I bought a CB550 front end and wheel for the sake of less faffing about ( it's a road bike, so weight isn't an issue - plus it'll help to prevent wheelies when the 20bhp of the SS90 motor kicks in :)) )
I've got a set of late pre OIF T100 forks that'll eventually replace the Honda ones, once I can afford a twin leader to go in them...
Just subbed. I love singles. Two or four stroke.
Michael the next time you are doing a parting operation,try putting your parting tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse.Works great for me. Bob
I have had that mentioned before but have not tried it. Now I have a much bigger Colchester lathe and it parts with no difficulty at all. It's amazing what extra weight and rigidity does for a lathe.
Ahhh, thought I recognised that accent - a Boro lad like myself. Hope you are enjoying your retirement. I am about to start on the restoration of my '67 BSA Lightning so may need your expert guidance!
If you are in the UK it will be a bit expensive to call and chat but e-mail me anytime and I will do what I can to help. Thanks for watching.
I am slightly south of Watertown NY, winters here suck.
My first year here we had no snow. Then I had one with five months worth. Let's keep our fingers crossed this year.
lol
Good luck. I live NE of you in NY State. This is the first year in 16 years where we had more than four inches of snow THREE TIMES by this time of year.
I see you are parting gingerly. I now take a good bite and plough through. I find it works better. Learned that from John Mills ("doubleboost" channel). It puts the tool under so much pressure it can't chatter. It is a little frightening at first.
Hello again. The biggest problem was the lightweight lathe. I now have a Colchester Master 13x36 and I can just wind the tool into steel even without a worry.
Hi Michael, I love your videos. very informative!
I have a 1967 BSA Victor Roadster, the road going version of the B44. I am thinking of lowering the bike 4-5 inches, which is easy to do for the rear. How much modification and machining would be required to lower the front? I think it would be just the top triple tree machined out to free the forks to slide up above the neck. Would that do it?
If you are going to use the BSA top yoke you will have to modify it to clamp onto the fork stantion. I did that to fit the Yamaha 650 forks into the Norton top yoke on the Nortaha. I can't remember which episode it was but if you go back and find it it will show how I did it.
@@BritanniaMotorcycles Thanks Michael
As you didn't put a recess in the bushings for the new headraces, what prevent the new bearing races from falling into the frame. That would be rather a significant emotional event for the driver it happens to.
The original internal lip still catches the smaller bearing, you could even hear the distinct ring when they bottomed out.
As Richard mentions the seat for the original bearing is wide enough to support the sleeve and the new bearing. I should have shown a shot down into the headstock. Well, we live and learn. Thank you both for watching.
Hi I know this is not in this video but I can’t find exactly the video you described what welder u bought ac dc tig can u tell me or what video explaining why cheers
It is an HTP Invertig 221. It received good reviews from the welders on the internet that I trust. Then I saw a video of a chap dismantling one and looking at the electrical components. They were all good quality items. The unit is made in Italy I think.
@@BritanniaMotorcycles is it the 221? Fith street fab uses one that’s good enough for me his welds are fantastic!
how would put a disc brake ona 1960 b40 .it was 21 c today and in gos under 15 c we move north . Saw my fill on cold weather in England .iyou would of move some where warm like come from the north vik
I would say put the forks and front wheel off a Yamaha XS650 in the BSA frame. They work well and are pretty common. Also they look very good on the older bikes. You can see my Royal Enfield fitted with those forks in the gallery on my website. I am too old to move again so I just spend the winter by the wood stove.
thank you it sound good and I will do that
On my Victor the rear wheel is off to one side by about 2cm. Should it be centred between the shocks?
If you measure from the shock mounts you will be about 6mm further from the drive side mount than from the timing side one. Best thing to do is take off the tank and lay a straight edge down the centre of the top frame tube to the rear wheel. The wheel centre should be on the same line.
What year are the forks you fitted and what are they from thanks
They are from the later BSA/Triumph range. These are 1971 from the oil in frame BSA singles.
You might find parting easier if you are brave and put the tool under more load. A heavier cut keeps the loading more consistent and, all other things being equal, prevent chatter.
Failing that, it might be worth watching Joe Pie's "treatise" on basic parting: th-cam.com/video/5LtYzjR1JuM/w-d-xo.html
I favour a parting tool with built in top rake and the use of power feed(with hand hovering over operating lever) but not all lathes are suitable for that.
I checked tool height etc for the second cut but all seemed correct. You are probably right about applying more pressure but it just seems counter intuitive so you tend to shy away from trying it. Of course I could buy a bigger lathe with some heft to it and a power cross feed and solve the problem that way, but unfortunately I have to eat . But I am keeping my eyes open. Thank you for watching and taking the time to provide a comment.