Awesome build so far. Thank you for sharing it! Being a bit of wood worker myself, I thought I'd share a little tip with you. When using wood / self tapping screws that will be removed a few times throughout the build, remove the screws and place few drops of thin Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) in the newly threaded holes to strengthen the threads and help prevent them from being stripped out.
i go Uhhhh, new pinball video from you.. one of the most indepth video on this topic on the youtube. Good sound, good pictures and using the tools we all can get. Cant be better..
Just came across your channel. Loving it. Only down side is I was supposed to be doing some work & have now watched all the episodes on the build so far. Well done
LOL, sorry about that. Glad you enjoyed the series! You building a vpin cab? If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch Andy!
Another great video and intro. I appreciate you sharing the human experiences with the improvs to keep moving forward (vs edits). Should be a good machine soon.
Thanks Scott! Yeah I'd rather share my mistakes so everybody (including myself) can learn from them. I figured I'd just have some fun with it while I was at it too. Thanks for the watch!
Another great video! Tip for next time and/or others: Instead of the latch you can also use a "roto-lock" the latches are a simpler (cheaper) and less elegant alternative of the roto-lock used on lots of pinball machines back in the day.
@@wayofthewrench they're the version that can be locked with the large hex key. stern pinball part numbers: 355-5006-01 male latch mechanism 355-5006-02 female catch 777-0001-00 hex wrench keep up the good work :)
Looking great! Can't wait for the next video. I'm about exactly where you are in the build. And just started cuts on the second one. Keep up the great work and great videos!
So, you went back and made the hole mod, so that the box would lay flat in the down position? Anyway, I bet a pool noodle would be a perfect wedge for transport. You could string a bungie cord right through the middle of one and then secure that around the backglass housing. It's looking great!
Yes I did but in the end it still wasn't high enough to fully lay flat but it was better. Probably because of the custom backbox dimensions. That's a great idea for the pool noodle / bungy cord. I was thinking a padded piece of plywood to spread out the force over a larger area of the stainless trim. Thanks for the watch!
This is what I want to do with my spare time... if only I had spare time. I feel like there is a trick to the hinges being missed. Would it be better to mount them to the backbox first pushed as far forward as possible, then once the backbox is properly aligned, mark the holes in the side of the main cabinet. It seems like that might guarantee more clearance when tilting the backbox down and remove the risk of poorly aligned cabinet holes. Either way, I can't wait to see the finished build.
Yeah I hear ya, I get very little time to work on this. Hard to say as my dimensions are bigger so that's probably why it's off. I like your idea of putting the hinge on the back box first, that might work. Probably a better idea to draw up in CAD to check actual movement though, which I didn't do. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench you'd think as a computer engineering graduate I would have learned CAD at some point but I just never had the time or reason. I'll add that to my free time list :)
Just wondering... if I'm not having the hinges on my build, do I need to have that extra height on the top of the cabinet where the backbox sits? Or having it flat like you originally had it is fine? Cheers!
Thank you so much for this series. Have a LONG way to go in my build. Still acquiring my 43" panel for main and others for back box. I am specifically looking for a native 120Hz panel. Thought I had one from a guy on OfferUp for $30. Turns out it was a 60Hz after looking it up. Probably would work fine, but your explanation on ball travel and time just cemented in my mind that I want a 120Hz panel. Can't wait to get the monitors and start playing with the software. I do have a question though. I have an older Radeon HD7770 with 1GB GDDR5. Will this be ample to drive the graphics of all three displays or should I be looking at something more robust to get the best out of that 120Hz main panel? Also, has your experience with your 60Hz panel at 1080P been good or just good enough? Thank you again.
Glad you're enjoying the series! Ya know if not familiar with the Radeon gpu series but if you google video card comparison, you can plug in your card versus a gtx 1050 and see where it's at. This will do 1080p for sure. For 120hz your going to have to get a better gpu, I think gtx 1080 does 4k well but only at 60hz. For 120 hz, your maybe looking at gtx 3060 or around there. The forums are a great place to see what people have already run. My 1080p build with 16 g of ddr3 ram ran beautifully and will probably be how I play that vpin for a while. Later, I'll upgrade the gpu and monitor for 4k and 120 hz. Thanks for the watch!
I noticed the rear leg brackets only screwed on 1 edge due to the cutout door :*( I also found it hard to build a cabinet whilst covering how everything interacts.
Yeah, missed that when I was figuring out how wide the access door could be to fit the pc. It actually worked ok though because it acts like a stop for the door for preventing it from swinging in. In retrospect, An inch or two smaller would have worked because I ended up decasing the pc ( future video). Thanks for the watch! What's your TH-cam channel Dan?
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome build so far. Thank you for sharing it! Being a bit of wood worker myself, I thought I'd share a little tip with you. When using wood / self tapping screws that will be removed a few times throughout the build, remove the screws and place few drops of thin Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) in the newly threaded holes to strengthen the threads and help prevent them from being stripped out.
Thank you very much! That's a good tip, never heard that one. I'll have to try it out. Thanks for the watch!
i go Uhhhh, new pinball video from you.. one of the most indepth video on this topic on the youtube. Good sound, good pictures and using the tools we all can get. Cant be better..
Thanks Jan, I'm trying hard to make a legacy series for people getting into this hobby so the comment is much appreciated. Thanks for the watch!
Oh my, that opening! :')
Lol....trying to keep it interesting. Thanks for the watch!
Just came across your channel. Loving it. Only down side is I was supposed to be doing some work & have now watched all the episodes on the build so far. Well done
LOL, sorry about that. Glad you enjoyed the series! You building a vpin cab? If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch Andy!
Another great video and intro. I appreciate you sharing the human experiences with the improvs to keep moving forward (vs edits). Should be a good machine soon.
Thanks Scott! Yeah I'd rather share my mistakes so everybody (including myself) can learn from them. I figured I'd just have some fun with it while I was at it too. Thanks for the watch!
Coming right along !
Thanks Bud! Yeah it's starting to get good. Lots of videos pre scheduled for the Summer too! Thanks for the watch!
This cabinet will be a perfect, functional and clean work ! Great job!
Thanks Bro! Yeah this cabinet will make smile everytime I play on it as I remember all the effort that went into it. Thanks for the watch!
Love the intro, lol. Great job.
I tried to have some fun with it...lol. Thanks for the watch!
Hey!!! It's Emil!
Talk this way... way of the wrench.
Walk this way... way of the wrench.
Cheers John!
Another great video!
Tip for next time and/or others:
Instead of the latch you can also use a "roto-lock"
the latches are a simpler (cheaper) and less elegant alternative of the roto-lock used on lots of pinball machines back in the day.
Ahh cool, I have never heard of these roto locks. I'll have to look into them. Thanks for the tip and the watch!
@@wayofthewrench they're the version that can be locked with the large hex key.
stern pinball part numbers:
355-5006-01 male latch mechanism
355-5006-02 female catch
777-0001-00 hex wrench
keep up the good work :)
Looking great! Can't wait for the next video. I'm about exactly where you are in the build. And just started cuts on the second one.
Keep up the great work and great videos!
Thanks J.L.! Dude, you're making 2 vpin cabs? That's awesome! Same graphics too?
@@wayofthewrench no not same. One Popeye and one Bride of Pinbot
So, you went back and made the hole mod, so that the box would lay flat in the down position? Anyway, I bet a pool noodle would be a perfect wedge for transport. You could string a bungie cord right through the middle of one and then secure that around the backglass housing. It's looking great!
Yes I did but in the end it still wasn't high enough to fully lay flat but it was better. Probably because of the custom backbox dimensions. That's a great idea for the pool noodle / bungy cord. I was thinking a padded piece of plywood to spread out the force over a larger area of the stainless trim. Thanks for the watch!
This is what I want to do with my spare time... if only I had spare time. I feel like there is a trick to the hinges being missed. Would it be better to mount them to the backbox first pushed as far forward as possible, then once the backbox is properly aligned, mark the holes in the side of the main cabinet. It seems like that might guarantee more clearance when tilting the backbox down and remove the risk of poorly aligned cabinet holes. Either way, I can't wait to see the finished build.
Yeah I hear ya, I get very little time to work on this. Hard to say as my dimensions are bigger so that's probably why it's off. I like your idea of putting the hinge on the back box first, that might work. Probably a better idea to draw up in CAD to check actual movement though, which I didn't do. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench you'd think as a computer engineering graduate I would have learned CAD at some point but I just never had the time or reason. I'll add that to my free time list :)
LOL, yeah you would think eh? Oh well, it's good to have things you want to do. Cheers!
Just wondering... if I'm not having the hinges on my build, do I need to have that extra height on the top of the cabinet where the backbox sits? Or having it flat like you originally had it is fine?
Cheers!
If you're not planning on having hinges then you should be fine. Thanks for the watch!
Does it matter if the T-nuts go on top and the wing bolts on the bottom?
Not really but it is about easy access so if the wing bolts are on the bottom, they might be hard to reach. Cheers!
Thank you so much for this series. Have a LONG way to go in my build. Still acquiring my 43" panel for main and others for back box. I am specifically looking for a native 120Hz panel. Thought I had one from a guy on OfferUp for $30. Turns out it was a 60Hz after looking it up. Probably would work fine, but your explanation on ball travel and time just cemented in my mind that I want a 120Hz panel. Can't wait to get the monitors and start playing with the software. I do have a question though. I have an older Radeon HD7770 with 1GB GDDR5. Will this be ample to drive the graphics of all three displays or should I be looking at something more robust to get the best out of that 120Hz main panel? Also, has your experience with your 60Hz panel at 1080P been good or just good enough? Thank you again.
Glad you're enjoying the series! Ya know if not familiar with the Radeon gpu series but if you google video card comparison, you can plug in your card versus a gtx 1050 and see where it's at. This will do 1080p for sure. For 120hz your going to have to get a better gpu, I think gtx 1080 does 4k well but only at 60hz. For 120 hz, your maybe looking at gtx 3060 or around there. The forums are a great place to see what people have already run. My 1080p build with 16 g of ddr3 ram ran beautifully and will probably be how I play that vpin for a while. Later, I'll upgrade the gpu and monitor for 4k and 120 hz. Thanks for the watch!
I noticed the rear leg brackets only screwed on 1 edge due to the cutout door :*( I also found it hard to build a cabinet whilst covering how everything interacts.
Yeah, missed that when I was figuring out how wide the access door could be to fit the pc. It actually worked ok though because it acts like a stop for the door for preventing it from swinging in. In retrospect, An inch or two smaller would have worked because I ended up decasing the pc ( future video). Thanks for the watch! What's your TH-cam channel Dan?
I did EXACTLY the same!! So glad it’s not just me 😂