This is the best explanation of a FBA I’ve ever heard. You explained my fitting issues perfectly. Thank you so much. I can’t wait for the rest of this series.
I’m so very happy that you are doing this. I have a difference of 5” between my high bust and my full bust. As you can imagine, I have had issue with fit. Thank you again for doing this!
Thank you for clearly and thoroughly explaining the FBA. I truly appreciate your knowledge in this area. I'm looking forward to the rest of the series.
I’ve recently found your fantastic tutorials. I’m a beginner so your instruction is helping me so much. I’ve always given up as so many things went wrong 😆 thank you for your clear professional instructions, no stopping to rewind or trying to block out hideous background music or struggling to understand dialect. Can’t wait for the SBA as I’m a small lady and as with all of your videos I’ll learn something new. I’m looking forward to trying to make the copen dress as soon as my printer behaves itself. You always look beautifully presented too.
Thanks for this excellent explanation. Now I finally understand why all the patterns I use have too large shoulders. Looking forward to your next tutorials!
I just saw you on THAT SEWING BLAB and am now subscribed to your channel. This FBA subject is just what I needed. I’m so excited to have found your channel. Can’t wait to see more... Virtual hugs from Oregon!
Hi Loriann, so lovely that you found my on That Sewing Blab - amazing! Really pleased that you like my tutorials, I do hope you find them useful. Aneka x
Thank you so much for doing these videos, I just made to summer dresses and I have been going crazy trying to get them to fit. I picked the size by my full bust measurement and that was 3 sizes over my upper bust measurements which I now know is the one I should be using thanks to your video. Off to watch the FBS video 😊
Thank you SO much. Really pleased that it made sense for you. It was a hard one to make sure I was explaining it clearly. And thank you for the lovely comment on my top. Aneka :-))
Hi! I’m so excited to watch more about the FBA. I wondered if I could ask one question? My high bust is 46” and full bust 49” . I generally find tops fit ok at the front but are baggy around the BACK of the neckline and above shoulder blades. Could this be remedied by an FBA? Also, when choosing a pattern size do I go for a 46” bust size and then add an FBA?
Are the shoulders too small at the end of shoulder? If not, it might not be an FBA fix, you might need a round upper back adjustment or something like this instead? In terms of FBA you could still do one, because you are a C cup and a lot of patterns will draft for B. Depending what patterns you use, can depend on the starting point. For the big 4 patterns (that I feel have more ease, than I would often like), you may find you can choose the sized based on your high bust. For other patterns you would choose the pattern size based on high bust + the cup size for the pattern, if it's a B Cup 2". Does this help? I am so sorry I missed your question a year ago. I am sure you have solved it now, but wanted to let you know. Aneka
Hi Anika. I hope this finds you as you did this tutorial 4 years ago! My full bust measures 93 cm and high bust 88cm, but if I measure in inches, it is 35 inches and 34 inches respectfully. Also when a buy a bra I need a C cup. Please can you explain this. Garments generally fit, except I need more room around the full bust. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial as always, thank you. What if the difference between my high bust and full bust I’d 3 1/2 inches. Do I go up to a d cup or down to the c cup? Thank you so much xx
Hi Bev, you can do an adjustment to a C and a half if you want to be very precise. Your adjustment to a B cup pattern would be 1 1/2” total. 3/4” on either side. Otherwise you would probably find a C or D works for you. I am a half size and find that I can do either from the cup perspective. Consider the amount of ease you would rather over the fullest part of the bust. And of course the size of your shoulders and chest area. Hope that helps, A
Thanks so much for your fantastic tutorials, will you be doing anything for a small bust adjustment? I have a very small cup size (A-AA in shop bought) so often find that the bust area is too big on patterns
Handmade By Ditsy-Tulip yes don’t worry. I have a What Is? Tutorial for SBA launching on Tuesday and a how to next Thursday. Everything I do for FBA I plan to do for SBA! I don’t want to leave anyone out! Aneka x
Made to Sew that’s wonderful, thanks so much, I’m learning loads from your videos, I binge watched the truing series this week and put it into practice straight away ☺️☺️☺️
Hi Aneka, I hope you are well. Thank you for your video, very informative as usual. This may be a silly question, but do you have to do a FBA if you've drafted the pattern from the persons measurements? Or would this be futile as it's already tailored to them?
Hi Vanessa, no silly questions. :-)) You shouldn't need to do a FBA if you have drafted the pattern for the individual person. As you should have drafted this with the right cup size for their individual measurements. Hope this helps? Aneka
Hi Aneka, I also have been really excited by the depth of information in your tutorials. My question is about the high-bust measurement. In other sources, they emphasize that the measurement must be parallel to the ground (across the chest, under the arm pit, straight across the back, all parallel to the floor). I was wondering how accurate your measurements would be in comparison. Thank you!
Great question, you do sometimes see this measurement shown as parallel to the ground, and I am never sure whether it is simply poor illustration or that is what these books believe. I was always taught to take the High Bust measurement at more of an angle, partly because you can't take it square on a lot of people, especially if the individual you are measuring as a full bust, it simply isn't possible. You want that measurement to be right up under the armpit and around the chest, above the bust, you are trying to avoid measuring any breast tissue, measuring the chest as if the bust didn't exist. The difficulty with this is the armpit, the back of the armpit is much lower than the front, and this makes it almost impossible to measure it straight parallel to the floor. I hope this helps? Aneka
Thank you for the explanation. I did an online search, and found some websites were unclear, but most did describe it as an angle. I will have to go back and update my measurements!
This is a wonderful video but my problem I can never get an answer for. On the tops that I make and the tops that I purchase all have the same problem. The shoulder seams drop to the FRONT of the garment by about one inch. This problem is never mentioned in any sewing book that I have. I have to constantly pull my tops down in the BACK to pull the front of the garment up to the position it should fit on my shoulders. I pull it down in the back to get the should seam to sit in the correct position. Now would a FBA correct this? I measured for it and it says I don't need one, but sometimes I feel like it is to tight in the bust. I did not hear you mention this problem in your video. Thank you so much for your help.
Hi Cynthia, thanks for your lovely message. I don't believe an FBA will fix your problem here. It sounds like it is an issue with the shoulders, back neck something in the top part of the body. Perhaps you can email me some images of yourself info@madetosew.com both with a garment that has a problem and standing. I would like to see an image front on, and from the side so that I can try and help. Many Thanks, Aneka x
This is so helpful! Thank you for the explanation. If my high bust is 34” and my full bust is 37”, does that mean I should add an inch of fabric at the bust line to compensate for the difference between the B and C cup? Not sure if Im applying this knowledge correctly.
Hi Aneka -- what an excellent "foundation" for FBAs. :-) The lovely thing about sewing is how much it makes you realise that EVERY figure is different and that it isn't just that there's something odd about your own figure! I'm not sure, generally, whether I need SBAs or FBAs. As I've put on weight and matured, I've tended to put on "a little all over" (rather than, for example, the apple shape we see in diagrams). This is with a small bust/cup size (in the bra sense). My hunch is that for this figure, you'd need something like a larger size to accommodate the plumpness all around but these tend to be much too large in the bust ... Is there a small bust adjustment you use with larger sizes? A different way of looking at it is that there may be a "standard" 2 inch, or B cup, difference between the high chest and the full chest measurements but some of those 2 inches are definitely not in the curve of the bust but actually spread out around the rib cage in plumpness with a small-ish bust. A tailor I was able to go to for alterations to a suit jacket told me this is a figure shape he saw with women who'd been athletic, especially swimming or tennis (yep, not for 30 years, but spot on).
Thanks for the great explanation! A couple of questions. Does it matter what the under bust measurement is? Mine is smaller than my high bust. Also, do you happen to know whether it’s safe to use the high bust measurement when selecting the size for Burda patterns?
Hi Jay, I usually find the Upper Bust measurement more accurate than the Under Bust when picking a size. Yes you can probably use the High Bust when working with Burda patterns. But as always do make a sample, as even within the pattern company, each pattern can be different. Aneka
This is great - but I have to say that per your measurements, I would be a B cup, yet clothing patterns drafted for a B cup never, ever fit me. They are always too small in the bust. So I wonder how accurate this really is?
These measurements are pretty standard, but as with everything they might not work for everybody. There are also other things to consider, for example some one might measure a B Cup but have a broad back that is making their Bust appear larger, when in fact the measurement is coming from a larger back. You can also use the Under Bust measurement to work out Cup size. But I usually find this less accurate.
@@MadetoSew Ah okay - I have always used the underbust and it is most accurate for me. I have a very small back and ribcage but am bustier, so maybe that confuses the measurements. Thank you for replying!
@@prostheticballerina Pleasure and happy to help. Yes, something like a small or broad back could easily confuse the measurements slightly and give you a different result. If you feel you need a larger cup than a B then go with that works best for you figure, and what is the most comfortable, as you have to wear the garment.
Dear Made to Sew!! I hope u r doing well. I have a curious query!! It's about easing required in the pattern of a deep neck, fitted blouse of waist length. In the above-mentioned kind of pattern, does the easing needed in the bust circumference vary with respect to the high bust circumference of a body. That is, if the high bust of a pattern is 32", the ease needed in the bust has to be lesser than that which is needed for the pattern with 42" high bust. thanks in advance :)
Thanks for beautifully explaining! One question though: the fba distorts the armhole shape, by angling it upwards at the outer lower edge. Is this ok?! I'm trying to do a fba adjustment for the first time on the 1puddle lane "miss fox" dress and I just can't seem to spread the pattern pieces without distorting the arm hole. I noticed it kinda did that in your video too
The other option is to have a second pivot point. As well as the armhole you could put a cut line to the centre of the shoulder and use this point as well when you cut and spread. This will help to prevent the armhole from becoming distorted as much on large FBA's. Let me know how you get on.
😊I like to draft my own things as I find patterns a pain in the ass. But I'm having issues with one thing. I'm making a wrap style top but I don't want it crossed over to high I dnt mind showing a bit of boob while I still have it but I'm getting some gaping I guess in the upper bust now I've seen this so from The vids I've seen do I draft it based on the upper bust is that right ? And I do have a bit of gaping where the arm hole is too but I put a dart there and it seamed to solve it but if I use a pattern fabric I won't want to put a dart there as the pattern won't match
Would I do an fba to increase dart volume without changing the shoulder width? I have a bodice block that is too big for me now and not sure what to do. Could you do a video on transferring toile adjustments to your pattern. That would be amazing.
Yes your FBA will NOT affect the shoulder width, it will simply add volume into the bust. If the bodice block is too large, is that just in the shoulder and bust or everywhere? That is a great idea, recording measurements. I will look into it. Aneka x
Thank you so much for your reply :). The bodice block is too big I have to pinch out around 2cm on the shoulder dart and about 1.5cm on the waist dart. And just a little loose on the back but not too bad. Is there something else I could do for better fitting? I’ve tried to search for reducing a bodice size but can’t find too much. Also are you running courses in Darwin or anywhere else in Australia? Thanks again Anika
@@cherloem2632 Hi Cherloe, I don't think an FBA will fix your problem if the shoulders are too big in this garment. You may have been better with a size or two down and then an FBA (if your figure requires one). Where did you get the block from? Did you make it for your measurements? Feel free to email me a picture and I can suggest where to take the amendments (info@madetosew.com). I am actually debating whether to open a school in Darwin for my classes; as I need to hire a space to film my videos (I am struggling to make videos at home in the space I have). I will also be looking at visiting other cities to run classes. Where are you based? Aneka
Sorry Angie, I was sure I had replied to you. Maybe I wrote it and didn't save! Sorry. You have a 1 1/2" difference between your high bust and full bust meaning you are just under a B Cup (in dressmaking), a B Cup has a 2" difference. Therefore most patterns will work for you, without any adjustments. Most patterns are drafted to a B Cup. 😃
Hi, Are you using the High Bust measurement to choose your pattern bust size? Or does the pattern give you the High Bust size? Let me know and I will reply with advice.
@@amaliatianca3062 Great. Then if you are choosing a pattern based on the High Bust and you are between sizes I would suggest that you could cut between the sizes. That is what I would do; but that can be more difficult. An easier option would be to pick one or the other; you could do things such a measure your shoulder and compare that to the pattern, or perhaps you already know if you have smaller or broader shoulders than normal. I would probably lean to the smaller size (the High Bust measurement means that you can get the pattern to fit your upper body, shoulders chest etc.). If you go with the smaller size then you would need to add in a little more if you need to do an FBA; as well as your FBA amount you may need to add in the difference between your High Bust and the smaller High Bust on the pattern. Does that help? Of course make a sample so that you can see the fit and see that the shoulders etc. fit the High Bust you have used.
Hi Tracy, lovely to hear from you. I am ok thank you for asking. I have just had a busy few months and been rather stressed. Finally got my website up, so I am back with videos again. I will have a live stream next weekend too. I will announce tomorrow. Thank you for checking on me. So kind! Aneka x
Hi Julie, I believe they are drafted for a B Cup? They don’t often put this information on the pattern, but they should have it on their website somewhere? Otherwise you could email them and ask? Thank you, Aneka
I think I did this wrong, I am making dress for young lady who is pregnant, I started with the size that matched her full bust, but I should start with the size that matches her high bust & adjust it with the fba, have I understood that correctly? next question, when I do that ( I haven't tried it yet) will I still get an enormous dart? ( the dart fold reaches well past the 'waist' seam of the empire line bodice! which is what happened with the first metthod (on the pattern matching full bust) the full bust gives us a size 22 and the high bust gives sz16! help, please advise, is there another tutorial I need to watch or just do the fba on the sz 16? thankyou for your help. I am loving your videos, so clear and informative I enjoy watching/listening to you :) btw I never knew an sba existed, excited to learn that next (for myself!)
Hi Heather, you want to choose the size that matches the High Bust (of your friend) plus the pattern cup size. So if the pattern is a B Cup it would be your friends High Bust plus 2" (5cm). Then you would do the FBA required. This is what I would recommend for most indie patterns. Some of the big four pattern companies can be very large though and I know some of my customers prefer to start with the High Bust measurement (don't add on the pattern company cup size) and then do the FBA. But the first method is the 'correct' method. I would do the FBA on the size 16. You might end up with a very large dart. But you can make this a cut away dart: madetosew.com/how-to-draft-a-cut-away-dart/ and remove the bulk from inside the dart. Does that help? A
Yes, thank you, I will try doing the fba on The sz16 (and I will learn how to do the cut away dart) This pattern has a D cup bodice piece. I think I will watch the video again to get it clearer - 'repetition is the first law of learning' I believe! Thanks again
You have a 2” difference between your High Bust and Full Bust which probably means that you don’t need to add anything. 2” difference is a B cup and most patterns are drafted for a B cup. Hope that helps?
@@pinsandneedlesx8825 hmm… it sounds like there could be something wrong with the fit of the shoulders or neck maybe? If the bust now fits? What pattern are you using?
i always wondered why nothing fit me well........ ive got a 7 inch difference between my bust and high bust D: only been sewing for a year and my boobs are always what give me a headache tying to figure out how to make a top fit!
You didn’t show how to correct the edge of the dart on the paper. All you have to do is pin your tissue pattern to your body make sure the Apex is in the right place and then just measure how much you need to have center front of the pattern match your center front. you’re making it too complicated
I show how to true the dart in this video: th-cam.com/video/FkK5bZ63YAo/w-d-xo.html which I link to from both of the step by step Full Bust Adjustment videos. Thank you for sharing how you do it. 😊 Of course you are welcome to pin the tissue paper to your body to see where it fits. I just wanted to explain the actual pattern drafting behind the adjustment, so that people understand why they are doing something. I also know that some people prefer to work with thicker paper, and in industry pattern drafting pattern is thicker and therefore little tricker to fit to the body. Thank you for sharing what you do, I am sure it will be useful to others.
@@MadetoSew yes it is always nice to know why you’re doing some thing. I think the products that is called pattern ease might be light enough to pin to your body but yet more durable than the cheap tissue pattern paper
@@dcwatashi Thank you. I have used Swedish Tracing paper in the past and recommend that to my customers. It is like a fabric, paper and you can pin it to the body. Thank you for sharing, I will look into pattern ease. Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Judy Kessinger of Fit Nice systems I think that’s what it’s called anyway she sells it off of her website. But I don’t know what country you’re in sometimes I wonder what country I’m in😺😺🤭😂
This is the best explanation of a FBA I’ve ever heard. You explained my fitting issues perfectly. Thank you so much. I can’t wait for the rest of this series.
Estelle, you are so kind. Thank you so much and I am so pleased I could explain it in a way that makes sense. Aneka x
I’m so very happy that you are doing this. I have a difference of 5” between my high bust and my full bust. As you can imagine, I have had issue with fit. Thank you again for doing this!
Hi Catherine, I really hope that you find the tutorial useful. It's up now! Any questions let me know. Aneka x
Thank you for clearly and thoroughly explaining the FBA. I truly appreciate your knowledge in this area. I'm looking forward to the rest of the series.
You are so welcome!
Not sewn for a long time and had never heard of FBA before. Thank you for this explanation, its been really helpful.
Glad I could help Teresa.
I’ve recently found your fantastic tutorials. I’m a beginner so your instruction is helping me so much. I’ve always given up as so many things went wrong 😆 thank you for your clear professional instructions, no stopping to rewind or trying to block out hideous background music or struggling to understand dialect. Can’t wait for the SBA as I’m a small lady and as with all of your videos I’ll learn something new. I’m looking forward to trying to make the copen dress as soon as my printer behaves itself. You always look beautifully presented too.
Well that was a revelation. I never realised there was a difference between a dress making bust measurement and a bra measurement.thank you!
Glad I could help.
This is the best explanation of WHY I need an FBA.
Glad I could help.
Thank you, Aneka. This was so easily explained. Eagerly awaiting the rest of the series. ❤️ 🧡 💛 💚 💙 💜
Thank you so much, so pleased you liked it. Aneka x
Thanks for this excellent explanation. Now I finally understand why all the patterns I use have too large shoulders. Looking forward to your next tutorials!
Hi Ana, great news. So pleased I could help! Yay! Aneka x
I just saw you on THAT SEWING BLAB and am now subscribed to your channel. This FBA subject is just what I needed. I’m so excited to have found your channel. Can’t wait to see more... Virtual hugs from Oregon!
Hi Loriann, so lovely that you found my on That Sewing Blab - amazing! Really pleased that you like my tutorials, I do hope you find them useful. Aneka x
Wow. What a great series coming up. Thank you. I’ve been wanting this information. You are such a good teacher, I’m excited for the upcoming videos.
Thank you so much Laura, so pleased I could help. Aneka x
Thank you so much for doing these videos, I just made to summer dresses and I have been going crazy trying to get them to fit. I picked the size by my full bust measurement and that was 3 sizes over my upper bust measurements which I now know is the one I should be using thanks to your video. Off to watch the FBS video 😊
So pleased I can help Teresa, thank you. Good Luck! Aneka x
Looking forward to the FBA tutorial series. Thanks, Aneka x
Thank you Laura. Aneka x
This was such an informative video and the best explanation of a full bust adjustment. Thank you. Also, I love your top; the fabric is stunning!
Thank you SO much. Really pleased that it made sense for you. It was a hard one to make sure I was explaining it clearly. And thank you for the lovely comment on my top. Aneka :-))
As usual, a wonderfully informative, clearly explained tutorial. Thanks
Thank you so much. I'm pleased that you found it helpful.
I just have to say that I really love you. How it is possible that I haven't discovered you earlier? BR from Poland :)
Thank you so much. I'm pleased you have found it helpful.
Love this series! Thank u so much!
Thank you so much Denise. Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
Could you please tell me how to do FBA on Cape jacket. Understand FBA on all patterns but don't know about a cape jacket. Thanks
Cheers N I eleen
Very interesting aneka,thank you!😘😘😘
Thank you Lucille. Aneka x
Much needed tutorials
Thank you :-))
Hi! I’m so excited to watch more about the FBA. I wondered if I could ask one question? My high bust is 46” and full bust 49” . I generally find tops fit ok at the front but are baggy around the BACK of the neckline and above shoulder blades. Could this be remedied by an FBA? Also, when choosing a pattern size do I go for a 46” bust size and then add an FBA?
Are the shoulders too small at the end of shoulder? If not, it might not be an FBA fix, you might need a round upper back adjustment or something like this instead? In terms of FBA you could still do one, because you are a C cup and a lot of patterns will draft for B. Depending what patterns you use, can depend on the starting point. For the big 4 patterns (that I feel have more ease, than I would often like), you may find you can choose the sized based on your high bust.
For other patterns you would choose the pattern size based on high bust + the cup size for the pattern, if it's a B Cup 2".
Does this help? I am so sorry I missed your question a year ago. I am sure you have solved it now, but wanted to let you know. Aneka
Thanks Aneka, very informative!
Happy to help. Aneka x
Hi Anika. I hope this finds you as you did this tutorial 4 years ago! My full bust measures 93 cm and high bust 88cm, but if I measure in inches, it is 35 inches and 34 inches respectfully. Also when a buy a bra I need a C cup. Please can you explain this. Garments generally fit, except I need more room around the full bust. Thank you.
Oooh this is going to be very useful!
Thank you :-))
Excellent tutorial as always, thank you. What if the difference between my high bust and full bust I’d 3 1/2 inches. Do I go up to a d cup or down to the c cup? Thank you so much xx
Hi Bev, you can do an adjustment to a C and a half if you want to be very precise. Your adjustment to a B cup pattern would be 1 1/2” total. 3/4” on either side.
Otherwise you would probably find a C or D works for you. I am a half size and find that I can do either from the cup perspective. Consider the amount of ease you would rather over the fullest part of the bust. And of course the size of your shoulders and chest area.
Hope that helps, A
Thanks so much for your fantastic tutorials, will you be doing anything for a small bust adjustment? I have a very small cup size (A-AA in shop bought) so often find that the bust area is too big on patterns
Handmade By Ditsy-Tulip yes don’t worry. I have a What Is? Tutorial for SBA launching on Tuesday and a how to next Thursday. Everything I do for FBA I plan to do for SBA! I don’t want to leave anyone out! Aneka x
Made to Sew that’s wonderful, thanks so much, I’m learning loads from your videos, I binge watched the truing series this week and put it into practice straight away ☺️☺️☺️
So pleased I could help. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, I hope you are well. Thank you for your video, very informative as usual. This may be a silly question, but do you have to do a FBA if you've drafted the pattern from the persons measurements? Or would this be futile as it's already tailored to them?
Hi Vanessa, no silly questions. :-)) You shouldn't need to do a FBA if you have drafted the pattern for the individual person. As you should have drafted this with the right cup size for their individual measurements. Hope this helps? Aneka
@@MadetoSew thank you Aneka! Wishing you all the best during these trying times, take care x
@@vane13p Same to you. Stay safe and well x
Hi Aneka, I also have been really excited by the depth of information in your tutorials. My question is about the high-bust measurement. In other sources, they emphasize that the measurement must be parallel to the ground (across the chest, under the arm pit, straight across the back, all parallel to the floor). I was wondering how accurate your measurements would be in comparison. Thank you!
Great question, you do sometimes see this measurement shown as parallel to the ground, and I am never sure whether it is simply poor illustration or that is what these books believe. I was always taught to take the High Bust measurement at more of an angle, partly because you can't take it square on a lot of people, especially if the individual you are measuring as a full bust, it simply isn't possible. You want that measurement to be right up under the armpit and around the chest, above the bust, you are trying to avoid measuring any breast tissue, measuring the chest as if the bust didn't exist. The difficulty with this is the armpit, the back of the armpit is much lower than the front, and this makes it almost impossible to measure it straight parallel to the floor. I hope this helps? Aneka
Thank you for the explanation. I did an online search, and found some websites were unclear, but most did describe it as an angle. I will have to go back and update my measurements!
Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
This is a wonderful video but my problem I can never get an answer for. On the tops that I make and the tops that I purchase all have the same problem. The shoulder seams drop to the FRONT of the garment by about one inch. This problem is never mentioned in any sewing book that I have. I have to constantly pull my tops down in the BACK to pull the front of the garment up to the position it should fit on my shoulders. I pull it down in the back to get the should seam to sit in the correct position. Now would a FBA correct this? I measured for it and it says I don't need one, but sometimes I feel like it is to tight in the bust. I did not hear you mention this problem in your video. Thank you so much for your help.
Hi Cynthia, thanks for your lovely message. I don't believe an FBA will fix your problem here. It sounds like it is an issue with the shoulders, back neck something in the top part of the body. Perhaps you can email me some images of yourself info@madetosew.com both with a garment that has a problem and standing. I would like to see an image front on, and from the side so that I can try and help. Many Thanks, Aneka x
Your explanation is so clear and easy to follow. Ma'am could you please show how to draft a Magyar sleeve dartless blouse God bless you
I will look into it. Thank you.
Hi my bust is 43 . And I always have problems in that area. Looking forward to for your tutorial . Thanks
Thank you so much. I do hope I can help. Aneka x
This is so helpful! Thank you for the explanation. If my high bust is 34” and my full bust is 37”, does that mean I should add an inch of fabric at the bust line to compensate for the difference between the B and C cup? Not sure if Im applying this knowledge correctly.
Hi Natalie, sorry for the delayed reply I have been on vacation. Yes, you are correct you would add 1" in total to the Bust as an FBA.
@@MadetoSew Thank you for the response! All your videos have been so helpful as I've been learning how to sew.
@@nataliejordan4035 Such a pleasure to help.
Hi Aneka -- what an excellent "foundation" for FBAs. :-) The lovely thing about sewing is how much it makes you realise that EVERY figure is different and that it isn't just that there's something odd about your own figure! I'm not sure, generally, whether I need SBAs or FBAs.
As I've put on weight and matured, I've tended to put on "a little all over" (rather than, for example, the apple shape we see in diagrams). This is with a small bust/cup size (in the bra sense). My hunch is that for this figure, you'd need something like a larger size to accommodate the plumpness all around but these tend to be much too large in the bust ... Is there a small bust adjustment you use with larger sizes? A different way of looking at it is that there may be a "standard" 2 inch, or B cup, difference between the high chest and the full chest measurements but some of those 2 inches are definitely not in the curve of the bust but actually spread out around the rib cage in plumpness with a small-ish bust.
A tailor I was able to go to for alterations to a suit jacket told me this is a figure shape he saw with women who'd been athletic, especially swimming or tennis (yep, not for 30 years, but spot on).
Hello, thank you so much. I am so pleased that you liked it. SBAs will be coming next week. You are correct, we are all unique! Aneka x
Thanks for the great explanation! A couple of questions. Does it matter what the under bust measurement is? Mine is smaller than my high bust. Also, do you happen to know whether it’s safe to use the high bust measurement when selecting the size for Burda patterns?
Hi Jay, I usually find the Upper Bust measurement more accurate than the Under Bust when picking a size. Yes you can probably use the High Bust when working with Burda patterns. But as always do make a sample, as even within the pattern company, each pattern can be different. Aneka
Looking forward to the coming episodes. Now I know what was wrong with that dress pattern....
This is great - but I have to say that per your measurements, I would be a B cup, yet clothing patterns drafted for a B cup never, ever fit me. They are always too small in the bust. So I wonder how accurate this really is?
These measurements are pretty standard, but as with everything they might not work for everybody.
There are also other things to consider, for example some one might measure a B Cup but have a broad back that is making their Bust appear larger, when in fact the measurement is coming from a larger back.
You can also use the Under Bust measurement to work out Cup size. But I usually find this less accurate.
@@MadetoSew Ah okay - I have always used the underbust and it is most accurate for me. I have a very small back and ribcage but am bustier, so maybe that confuses the measurements. Thank you for replying!
@@prostheticballerina Pleasure and happy to help. Yes, something like a small or broad back could easily confuse the measurements slightly and give you a different result. If you feel you need a larger cup than a B then go with that works best for you figure, and what is the most comfortable, as you have to wear the garment.
Dear Made to Sew!!
I hope u r doing well.
I have a curious query!!
It's about easing required in the pattern of a deep neck, fitted blouse of waist length.
In the above-mentioned kind of pattern, does the easing needed in the bust circumference vary with respect to the high bust circumference of a body.
That is, if the high bust of a pattern is 32", the ease needed in the bust has to be lesser than that which is needed for the pattern with 42" high bust.
thanks in advance :)
Waiting for tomorrow’s tutorial 😀
Thank you x
brilliant! Thankyou👍💗🌻
Thanks.
Thanks for beautifully explaining! One question though: the fba distorts the armhole shape, by angling it upwards at the outer lower edge. Is this ok?! I'm trying to do a fba adjustment for the first time on the 1puddle lane "miss fox" dress and I just can't seem to spread the pattern pieces without distorting the arm hole. I noticed it kinda did that in your video too
The other option is to have a second pivot point. As well as the armhole you could put a cut line to the centre of the shoulder and use this point as well when you cut and spread. This will help to prevent the armhole from becoming distorted as much on large FBA's. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you so much for this
😊I like to draft my own things as I find patterns a pain in the ass. But I'm having issues with one thing. I'm making a wrap style top but I don't want it crossed over to high I dnt mind showing a bit of boob while I still have it but I'm getting some gaping I guess in the upper bust now I've seen this so from
The vids I've seen do I draft it based on the upper bust is that right ? And I do have a bit of gaping where the arm hole is too but I put a dart there and it seamed to solve it but if I use a pattern fabric I won't want to put a dart there as the pattern won't match
Would I do an fba to increase dart volume without changing the shoulder width? I have a bodice block that is too big for me now and not sure what to do.
Could you do a video on transferring toile adjustments to your pattern. That would be amazing.
Yes your FBA will NOT affect the shoulder width, it will simply add volume into the bust. If the bodice block is too large, is that just in the shoulder and bust or everywhere? That is a great idea, recording measurements. I will look into it. Aneka x
Thank you so much for your reply :). The bodice block is too big I have to pinch out around 2cm on the shoulder dart and about 1.5cm on the waist dart. And just a little loose on the back but not too bad. Is there something else I could do for better fitting? I’ve tried to search for reducing a bodice size but can’t find too much.
Also are you running courses in Darwin or anywhere else in Australia?
Thanks again Anika
@@cherloem2632 Hi Cherloe, I don't think an FBA will fix your problem if the shoulders are too big in this garment. You may have been better with a size or two down and then an FBA (if your figure requires one). Where did you get the block from? Did you make it for your measurements? Feel free to email me a picture and I can suggest where to take the amendments (info@madetosew.com). I am actually debating whether to open a school in Darwin for my classes; as I need to hire a space to film my videos (I am struggling to make videos at home in the space I have). I will also be looking at visiting other cities to run classes. Where are you based? Aneka
Hi Anika, can you please show a fba on princess seams? Thank you
Hi Klaire, planning to film this week or next. Aneka 😊
Hi can you share a link for the FBA Princesss Seam please I’ve searched and can’t find it thanks
So sorry Rebecca, it never got filmed. I am working on it now! Aneka x
Thanks alot Aneeka wish you happiness
Thank you. Happy to help. :-))
Made to Sew I'm watching your lessons from syria and you lessons is perfect ....keep going🌹🌹
Oh I am so pleased, that comment has made my day. Thank you. Aneka xx
Hi my high bust is 36 1/2 and my full bust is 38, can you advise please? Thanks
Sorry Angie, I was sure I had replied to you. Maybe I wrote it and didn't save! Sorry.
You have a 1 1/2" difference between your high bust and full bust meaning you are just under a B Cup (in dressmaking), a B Cup has a 2" difference. Therefore most patterns will work for you, without any adjustments. Most patterns are drafted to a B Cup. 😃
Just one question ! What if your HB measurement is in between sizes on the pattern your working on?
Hi, Are you using the High Bust measurement to choose your pattern bust size? Or does the pattern give you the High Bust size? Let me know and I will reply with advice.
@@MadetoSew Hi Hi, Oh yes so this pattern does give me the HB measurement in the chart to help with choosing a size to trace.
@@amaliatianca3062 Great. Then if you are choosing a pattern based on the High Bust and you are between sizes I would suggest that you could cut between the sizes. That is what I would do; but that can be more difficult. An easier option would be to pick one or the other; you could do things such a measure your shoulder and compare that to the pattern, or perhaps you already know if you have smaller or broader shoulders than normal. I would probably lean to the smaller size (the High Bust measurement means that you can get the pattern to fit your upper body, shoulders chest etc.). If you go with the smaller size then you would need to add in a little more if you need to do an FBA; as well as your FBA amount you may need to add in the difference between your High Bust and the smaller High Bust on the pattern. Does that help? Of course make a sample so that you can see the fit and see that the shoulders etc. fit the High Bust you have used.
Have not heard from you in a while, I hope you are okay.
Hi Tracy, lovely to hear from you. I am ok thank you for asking. I have just had a busy few months and been rather stressed. Finally got my website up, so I am back with videos again. I will have a live stream next weekend too. I will announce tomorrow. Thank you for checking on me. So kind! Aneka x
Will you be doing a SBA tutorial as well?
Hi Lois, yes I will - next week is the SBA :-)). Aneka x
How does one know what cup the pattern is made for please? I use Tilly and the Buttons and Sew Over it patterns generally.
Hi Julie, I believe they are drafted for a B Cup? They don’t often put this information on the pattern, but they should have it on their website somewhere? Otherwise you could email them and ask? Thank you, Aneka
Brilliant
Thank you.
I think I did this wrong, I am making dress for young lady who is pregnant, I started with the size that matched her full bust, but I should start with the size that matches her high bust & adjust it with the fba, have I understood that correctly? next question, when I do that ( I haven't tried it yet) will I still get an enormous dart? ( the dart fold reaches well past the 'waist' seam of the empire line bodice! which is what happened with the first metthod (on the pattern matching full bust) the full bust gives us a size 22 and the high bust gives sz16! help, please advise, is there another tutorial I need to watch or just do the fba on the sz 16? thankyou for your help. I am loving your videos, so clear and informative I enjoy watching/listening to you :) btw I never knew an sba existed, excited to learn that next (for myself!)
Hi Heather, you want to choose the size that matches the High Bust (of your friend) plus the pattern cup size. So if the pattern is a B Cup it would be your friends High Bust plus 2" (5cm). Then you would do the FBA required. This is what I would recommend for most indie patterns. Some of the big four pattern companies can be very large though and I know some of my customers prefer to start with the High Bust measurement (don't add on the pattern company cup size) and then do the FBA. But the first method is the 'correct' method.
I would do the FBA on the size 16. You might end up with a very large dart. But you can make this a cut away dart: madetosew.com/how-to-draft-a-cut-away-dart/ and remove the bulk from inside the dart. Does that help? A
Yes, thank you, I will try doing the fba on The sz16 (and I will learn how to do the cut away dart) This pattern has a D cup bodice piece. I think I will watch the video again to get it clearer - 'repetition is the first law of learning' I believe! Thanks again
@@heatherwade872 Ok let me know how you get on.
For me it’s complicated to understand for now, need to watch it again and again untill I understand before moving to more of the tutorials.
This is complicated for a beginner, but you will get there! :-))
Thanks for shear
Thank you. x
I am still so clueless
I am high bust 35” and bust 37”. So how much am i suppose to add
You have a 2” difference between your High Bust and Full Bust which probably means that you don’t need to add anything. 2” difference is a B cup and most patterns are drafted for a B cup. Hope that helps?
@@MadetoSew but i still have fiting problems the dress keep sliding up to my neck
@@pinsandneedlesx8825 hmm… it sounds like there could be something wrong with the fit of the shoulders or neck maybe? If the bust now fits? What pattern are you using?
i always wondered why nothing fit me well........ ive got a 7 inch difference between my bust and high bust D: only been sewing for a year and my boobs are always what give me a headache tying to figure out how to make a top fit!
I am so pleased I could help Crystal. Any questions let me know. Aneka x
How do you do a fba on a bralette pattern/ crop top pattern
Does the pattern have princess seams? If so you can complete an FBA with the princess seam method.
Smile always like as rose ...
Too kind :-))
Well that is helpful, full sure
Thank you.
What happens if you are an A cup?
Hi Tracy, don't worry - next week is SBA week and I will be showing you how to do a Small Bust Adjustment and discussing that! Aneka x
thank you
Pls make subtitles in hindi pls pls
I will look into it. Thanks for the request.
You didn’t show how to correct the edge of the dart on the paper.
All you have to do is pin your tissue pattern to your body make sure the Apex is in the right place and then just measure how much you need to have center front of the pattern match your center front.
you’re making it too complicated
I show how to true the dart in this video: th-cam.com/video/FkK5bZ63YAo/w-d-xo.html which I link to from both of the step by step Full Bust Adjustment videos. Thank you for sharing how you do it. 😊 Of course you are welcome to pin the tissue paper to your body to see where it fits. I just wanted to explain the actual pattern drafting behind the adjustment, so that people understand why they are doing something. I also know that some people prefer to work with thicker paper, and in industry pattern drafting pattern is thicker and therefore little tricker to fit to the body. Thank you for sharing what you do, I am sure it will be useful to others.
@@MadetoSew yes it is always nice to know why you’re doing some thing. I think the products that is called pattern ease might be light enough to pin to your body but yet more durable than the cheap tissue pattern paper
@@dcwatashi Thank you. I have used Swedish Tracing paper in the past and recommend that to my customers. It is like a fabric, paper and you can pin it to the body. Thank you for sharing, I will look into pattern ease. Aneka x
@@MadetoSew Judy Kessinger of Fit Nice systems I think that’s what it’s called anyway she sells it off of her website. But I don’t know what country you’re in sometimes I wonder what country I’m in😺😺🤭😂
@@dcwatashi I will take a look, thank you. I am in Australia at the moment, but usually between Australia and the UK! 😂