Bradford White OEM Anode Rod - amzn.to/37DkV5v Segmented Magnesium Rod - amzn.to/3kdzkuh Bradford White Heat Trap - amzn.to/37zU0aQ V-Jaw Groove Joint Pliers - amzn.to/3sjtE52 24" Pipe Wrench - amzn.to/3aGuu5Q Plumber's Teflon Tape - amzn.to/3dPfV1V Thread Sealant (Pipe Dope) - amzn.to/3kaYslA The Paul79UF TH-cam channel is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.
Great video; super helpful and on-point, short, excellent video angles, and no annoying voiceover or music. I wish more "How to" videos were like this. Thank you.
great video. step by step instructions no unneeded dialog or steps and the links to the products in the description is a brilliant touch. well done. thank you
Wow this and the documentation link are excellent. It is very important, however, to get the exact serial number for the sacrificial rod and heat trap for your particular model. I'm going to use your instructions. I'm a bit nervous about deforming the threads when taking out the old rod, and if it will slip into the tank! I don't understand how your socket bar will just hold that in place come up because it is square. Anyway, I'll have to be careful with that one. The rest of your instructions are very careful and precise. The contractor wanted over $700 to replace the sacrificial rod, almost as much as the water heater costs itself. Ridiculous! Thank you for making this video!
Great video. The best one that fully describes the anode replacement for a Bradford White water heater. Well Done! Great links to replacement anodes as well!
Thanks to this vid (and another), I just did this last weekend! I ordered the exact anode rod for my unit, as well as the heat trap (which fit snugly in the anode rod without my having the rip out the plastic liner). Things did not go perfectly. For one, I could barely drain half a gallon of water from the unit, with the cold water inlet off and the tub faucet on (perhaps I needed to turn on more faucets)? It was trickling out. But it didn't matter; I didn't get burned or splashed. Also, I could not detach the flue pipe from the unit; it had four holes and the flue pipe seemed to "snap" into those holes, but I could not "snap" it out. But I was able to get my wrenches in there. In fact, I didn't even need the pipe-wrench (perhaps because the rod was already loosened last year when a water-heater guy took out the anode rod and showed me, but wanted to charge me over $800 to replace it, so I told him to put it back in). I just used my V-lock pliers. The rod needed to be sawed about 6" shorter so it matched the old one. No leaks and I saved about $700 (my tools etc cost about $150, but with I get to keep those tools) and I have the satisfaction of knowing I did a good job! Be careful when threading the pipe back in to make sure you ware not cross-threading it! Work slowly!
@@Paul79UF Yeah, he showed me his iPad where there's a pic of a generic flexible rod with an over $700 price tag on it. Then I'm sure there'd be labor. That, as well as his sky-high quote to "fix/replace" the expansion tank on top (for another $800, when all it needed was inflation!) motivated me to look for these videos. And that was a "reputable" company. I mean, the water heater itself cost about $800. Crazy.
HOLY CRAP.....I would go on Google and warn others and give him a 1 star rating. I just replaced my heater 2 years ago the guy charged me $450 for the heater and $200 for the install (Detroit). Guessing it was his E-store he was showing you, it would have been funny if you called a plumbing supply on speaker and got a quote-"It's $82 dollars for the rod" 😂 Jerk probably gets away with it for those that don't know better, always get 3 quotes.
@@Paul79UF I just changed out to anode rods. Although I watched several videos prior to yours. I happen to find yours on the exact day that I was going to do the work. Your video should pay dividends many years to come! 🫡
Hi, I did the same thing before I changed my anode rod. I watched lots of other videos but I wanted to make my own to help out others with the exact same water heater. I also plan to watch my own video before I do the procedure again in a few more years.
Thanks a lot for the video. I was wondering how would I replace it, because the heater was lifted close to the ceiling and I didn't realize you could bend the old anode rod and there were new flexible rods. Very useful!
My old G.E. water heater that lasted eighteen years had a standalone anode rod nut. It also had flexible lines installed by me. It was easy to replace. No need to remove the hot side plumbing at all. But at the time it leaked; I could not locate a thirty gallon heater any where. So I called a plumber and he claimed he had one in his shop. He installed a Bradford White Defender with solid copper tubes. He told me these flex lines eventually leak, Uh no leaks in eighteen years. Well this new heater is now nine years old and I thought it didn't come with an anode rod at all. I'm glad I came across your video. Thank You. My next heater will hopefully have an external anode option and I will replace those solid copper tubes with flexible lines again.
Hi, I'm glad you like the video. 🙂 If you want your next water heater to have a separate anode rod that is easier to replace, look for a Rheem Classic. My family member has one and it was definitely easier to replace the rod. Here's my video of that procedure - th-cam.com/video/u6w88TXMbg8/w-d-xo.html
Hey excellent video tutorial. I like how you used 1/2” extension so pipe don’t collapse. The nipple should be hexed inside like hex key so you can use it to reinstall new one without damage threads.
Hi Joseph, that's an excellent idea! I wish they had done that. 🙂 I'm glad you like the guide. Thank you for taking the time to leave me a nice comment.
@@SFBenjaminK I've heard that and seen it in videos as well. Our house was built in 2015 and the climate is dry, so it was easy to get out the old one.
Hi HenryT, I used a torque stick that has a 1/2" drive on it. It looks like these on Amazon - amzn.to/3ZBSyNv You could probably just also put a 1/2" drive extension bar or the 1/2" drive on a ratchet into the opening.
Thank you! I've been looking for this exact video and it gives me the confidence to tackle my HW which is same as yours. And thanks for the links. Kudos on your video.
On my water heater, the top cover did not line up with the hole for hot water (touching the side of the original pipe) so I could not get the threads to grab at all with the new rod. I ended up loosening the top cover and rotating it to line it up better and that fixed the issue. Screwed in just fine after the adjustment.
Thanks for the video. Definitely found it helpful. Was amusing to see some of the same images in your video as pictures I encountered when I was searching for anode rods on what I'm guessing was your amazon review for the segmented anode rod. I ended up drilling out the hole in the plastic insert with an 11/16th drill bit and the heat trap fits basically perfectly. Although you had to go stupid slow with the drill otherwise the bit would grip and the insert would just spin around. I didn't have a torque stick but a long socket did the job for me. New rod is in place with no leaks so far and as far as I can tell no boogered up threads.
Hi Felix, yes, that is amusing that you also saw my Amazon review. 😀 I'm really glad you like the video. That's great that the replacement went well for you. Thanks for taking the time to write me a nice comment.
Nice great step by step video moments with all the parts and procedure. I was wondering about the clearance space, the segmented rod and the bending helped. Thank you!.
Wow. This was great! I know little about plumbing but know so much more after watching these clear instructions. Thank you -- and for the parts info. Questions: I noticed that you took a picture of a 6-year-old corroded rod. How often should one replace the anode rod if you have hard water and should the rod be aluminum vs. magnesium for a Bradford White tank?
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. I've read a variety of opinions that the anode rod should be replaced every 3 years, every 5 years or even every 7 years. So I figured that 6 years was long enough. The old rod didn't look that bad and I probably could have left it there for another year or two. The new rod is inexpensive, so I'll replace it again after 5 to 7 years. We have very hard water here in SW Utah. I installed a water softener just recently. From what I've read, magnesium is better. It supposedly offers better protection from corrosion and magnesium is beneficial to your health. The aluminum rods can be cheaper and last longer, but they don't protect as well. Plus the trace aluminum in your water can be harmful to your health.
Thanks for the video. I hate that the anode is part of the hot water outlet nipple. My BW HWT is 12 years old now and I just fixed it by replacing the circuit board on the gas control valve and the thermopile assembly. Unfortunately I didn't touch the anode and now I'm afraid it'll be seized in there. Just FYI there are also anodes with a 5" nipple so that the threads do not get damaged upon installation or removal. Also, good call on the magnesium - I've read that they offer better protection than aluminum.
The old anode rod was in great shape. Plenty of life left in it for more years. Sadly, the way Bradford White does it, theres no standalone anode rod with hex head for socket/impact gun removal and inspection. In that case you could have just put the old rod back in without having to purchase a new rod (which are never cheap) that wasnt needed. But with the Bradford, once you unscrew the anode rod to inspect the rod, the nipple threads get ruined. So one is forced to have the new anode on hand even when the old rod is still good. I just got a new Bradford White this past week. Love the hot water heater but not a fan of their anode rod setup. 😖
Hi John, the rod cost me $39.00 back in 2021. The old one was 6 years old but it did have some life left. I'll probably wait for 7 to 8 years before I change it again. Or maybe just buy a new water heater since this one is a 2015 model year. It will be 10 years old next year.
Hi Victor, I'm glad to hear that it all worked out for you. 🙂 I had read that tip about inserting something into the nipple to prevent it from collapsing on a plumbing forum.
Excellent tutorial. Do you know if the segmented replacement magnesium anode you recommended is applicable for all Bradford White heaters with this type of nipple head?
Hi Randy, I only verified that it was compatible with my model number but I assume they all have the same size hot water nipple. If the rod is too long you can always cut off a segment. (Don't use power tools on the magnesium rod. The magnesium powder is flammable.)
@@Paul79UF 2 years later and I'm doing the second replacement of my anode rod following your instructions. I have had no problems sourcing a segmented magnesium anode rod and matching Heat Trap both times. .
2:53 I don't think you are supposed to remove the "plastic sleeve" in order to fit the heat trap in. I just received my BW anode rod along with heat trap (exact ref. parts for my model) and the heat trap "snapped into place" inside the rod, with a firm push, with the 'plastic sleeve/insert" still in there. I did not have to remove it. Not sure what difference this makes, but I'm no pro. And removing something the anode rod came with, esp. with such difficulty and mess, does not seem correct. My 2 cents.
Hi, this was two years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy, but it seemed to me like I could not use the new BW heat trap with the generic anode rod unless I removed that plastic sleeve. Maybe I was wrong. I'll order the same parts in a few years and try it your way when I replace the rod again. The new heat strap seemed to fit securely in the nipple. Thanks for the tip. 🙂
@@Paul79UF Your video and written tutorial gave me confidence to undertake this rather complex maintenance task instead of shelling out several hundred dollars to a contractor (yes, they wanted over $700 to replace an anode rod!). Thank you!!
Hi, I had read that it was a good idea to replace it. The rubber starts to break down with age. It wasn't very expensive. I guess if your old one looks good, you could reinstall it.
Hi, I used the small saw blade on a Leatherman tool to partially cut it in a few places until it could be pulled out with needle nose pliers. Try to avoid cutting the metal part of the rod. Good luck. 🙂
I'm not keen on grabbing the nipple by the threads so close to the end, as it could collapse under the pressure of the twisting motion of the wrench, should it be befrozon on. The nipple should have had a longer shank to address this issue. Any comments on this concern?
Hi, I address that issue at 1:55 in the video. I inserted a torque stick into the opening that fits snugly. Then I loosen the old rod by turning the hot water nipple using the threads. The threads will get damaged, but the nipple shouldn't collapse since the torque stick is in there. You could probably also use a large bolt or maybe an extension bar from a ratchet set. I hope that helps. 🙂
Hi Paul, thanks for making an informative teaching video. Looked to me like the old anode was still thick, with maybe a lot of life left in it? What is your opinion? By the time you have the old one out and a new one in hand I would probably just go ahead and replace it too, especially for the sake of making a teaching video. But for the average person, does it make sense to check your old anode to see how much of it is left before ordering a new one?
Hi Doug, I'm glad you like the video. I had read that the average anode rod lasts for 5 to 7 years before needing to be replaced. Our water heater was about 6 years old when I made this video, so I figured it was worth buying the new rod for $39 and also a few tools. The old rod was probably thick enough for a few more years, but I figured I might as well change it and not have to worry about it again for at least 5 years. Our house was previously occupied by one person and I bet we use a lot more hot water. I was also worried about damaging the hot water nipple on the old anode rod while removing it and then having to wait a few days (with no hot water) for a new one to arrive from Amazon or to run around town trying to find a replacement on short notice.
The white coating on the old anode makes it unusable for the actual purpose of flaking away. I forget what they said caused the white coating, but essentially it will never get smaller. Furthermore if your anode does get the white coating you need to change to either an aluminum or zinc anode when you replace it. The new magnesium rod he just put in will just get a white coating and not do the job it's in there to do all over again.
@@marvthecarpenter Hi, I'm surprised to hear that. The old rod was certainly eaten away and missing little chunks of the magnesium the entire length of it. We have hard water in this area, so perhaps the white coating you see is just some calcium deposits.
Well, you'll have to butcher the threads to get the old one out so just "inspection" is not possible. It's a shame they didn't take that into consideration.
I wanted to ask another question please. Instead of going through the hassle of removing the plastic insert at top of the flexible anode rod can I use a 3/4 npt female x 3/4 npt male 2" nipple adapter (if I can find one) then just add the Heat Trap to the end of the extended nipple, will this work? Thanks again for your help.
Hi Patrick, I read that you should not use Teflon tape on flex connectors hoses that have rubber washers. The rubber washer seals the connection and there is no need for Teflon tape or pipe dope. When I took the flex connector off the old anode rod, there was no tape or pipe dope. I had done some research and everything I read said that is the correct way.
@@Paul79UF NOt going to hurt to have tape or dope on it. If / when the rubber washer breaks down it will leak at the threads. I don't like leaks down the road
I just bought a 40 gallon from heater company brought & installed it mine call ECO defender & looks newer model because built in August 2021, they says is better controller & everything will see & Bought 4 years extended warranty on that for $170 really worth it ..so is for 10 years now ..i just flush & drain it every year not worry about that , BUT how u bend the rod? because mine is it closet not much room on top
Hi, the magnesium anode rod in this 2015 model year water heater was corroded away after 6 years and it was very easy to bend it. Magnesium is a relatively soft metal. I'm sure it was easier to bend since the rod was very hot from being inside the water heater.
My water heater has solid copper pipe so I would have to cut the copper pipe in order to replace the anode rod, should I install a union on the hot side for easy access next time ?
Hi Rohit, there is only one sacrificial anode rod in the heater that is attached to the hot water nipple. The cold water nipple is just attached to a plastic "dip tube". Here's my written version of this video guide that has more information - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html I hope that helps. 🙂
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 Hi Rohit, that's a great question. I would buy a borescope (also known as a "snake camera") on Amazon - amzn.to/3U7pZq3 They have cameras that attach to your cell phone with lights on the end that can be inserted into the water heater.
The anode rod you took out looked new. The heat trap I replaced 4 years ago was missing the black rubber portion of the heat trap. Waste of money. Who knows when the rubber fell off. The original one I replaced after 5 years was also missing the black rubber. Note if using a water softner anode rod service is more frequent. This time I replaced the Arod after 3Y11m and the anode rod was totally gone. Last one was done a 5 years/Totally Gone. Prior I inspected at 3yrs = Good. I shall put my unit on a 3-3.5 yrs change interval.
Hi, the old rod was six years old. It was pitted and slightly worn away. I'm glad I replaced it for my own peace of mind. You can see better pictures of the old rod on my website - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html I'll keep that in mind about the water softener issue. I just installled one last year. Thank you for your comment.
Hi Aaron, I'm sorry but I'm a bit confused by your comment. Would you please explain what you mean? By "lav" do you mean a "lavatory" (bathroom)? Thank you. 🙂 I did some research and I'm guessing that you are suggesting that I should have opened the hot water faucet on a sink. Is that correct?
Hi John, I imagine that the hot water would still work. There is a small chance that a piece of debris could clog the hot water nipple attached to the anode rod.
Hi Eric, I found some tips on a plumbing site - "Magnesium shavings will burn very brightly. Aluminum will not. Shave a little off and try to ignite it." *(BE CAREFUL!) "Magnesium is stiffer and somewhat springy. Aluminum is dead soft, bending easily. Aluminum rods are heavier for a given size. Except for Rheem, magnesium anodes have a bump on the top of the hex head, while aluminum is flat. Aluminum is a brighter metal while magnesiun is darker grey... In general, use magnesium anodes, as they can protect better and do not make the volume of corrosion byproduct that aluminum does. Dare I add, ingesting magnesium from the water heater is not a health concern. Hope that helps." "Doesn't the top of the rod (the threaded part of which the top is exposed outside the heater) have a rounded bump in the center if it is Magnesium and has no bump if aluminum?" ___________ I hope that helps.
Hi, if you look at the 2:48 time mark, the old rod has lots of missing material. It definitely could have lasted at least a few more years but it was such a cheap thing to replace for peace of mind. The house was built in 2015 and we bought it in 2020. I don't mind replacing it every 6-7 years to make sure the water heater doesn't get damaged.
#1 The Heat Trap won't fit with the plastic sleeve installed in this flexible Anode from MFG. #2 If you remove the plastic sleeve in this Anode then the hole will be to large and the Heat Trap will not have a snug fit, it will be loose and not snug as it should. What is the fix for this?
Hi Stephen, If you look at the 1:30 mark in the video, the hot water flex pipe seems to hold the old heat trap securely in place. The outer edge of the heat trap is slightly deformed from being pushed down by the gasket inside the flex hose connection. At 4:05 in the video, you can see that the new heat trap has the same outer lip that will be held down by the hot water flex pipe connection. Another person in the comments said that they were able to just push the heat trap into the new anode rod even with that plastic sleeve in the way. I'll try that next time.
Thank you so much! When my new anode arrives I'll see if the heat trap will fit into the plastic sleeve, if not I'll have to cut out the plastic sleeve and let the connection fitting hold the Heat Trap in place. As an alternative can I just not use the Heat Trap if I choose not to remove the plastic core? Thanks again for your help!
@@Paul79UF Wanted to mention that in your video @1:30 the Heat Trap is installed in a solid Magnesium Rod that looks like it does not have that plastic sleeve, if it does it's thinner then the ones I've seen installed on flexible anode rods. For some reason all flexible anode rods I've seen listed all have a thick plastic core sleeve.
Hi Stephen, I see what you mean. So far the new anode rod has been working as expected with that plastic sleeve removed to make room for the new heat trap. The water heater is quiet and our natural gas bill has been the same as before the replacement. So I'm assuming that removing that plastic sleeve was an acceptable modification.
Hi, no, there is only one sacrificial anode rod in the heater that is attached to the hot water nipple. The cold water nipple is just attached to a plastic "dip tube". Here's my written version of this video guide that has more information - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html I hope that helps. 🙂
Hi Bob, yes, I agree. I saw the videos of water heaters with copper pipes. That does look like a pain. Every house we looked at in this area before we bought our home had flex hoses on the water heaters. I'm sure some of the older homes have copper pipes but we only looked at 2010+ homes. I hope the video was still helpful. 🙂
@@Paul79UF oh yes it was for sure. I wouldn’t have been able to do half these repairs if it weren’t for people like you that do these videos. It’s saved me lots of money. My anode is hidden inside the hot water line! Lol!
Check out the full DIY guide for changing the magnesium sacrificial anode rod in a Bradford White natural gas or electric water heater - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html
Hi, I agree. I changed out the anode rod in a Rheem water heater and it was much easier having a separate rod. If you get a Rheem, here's my video guide for changing the anode rod - th-cam.com/video/u6w88TXMbg8/w-d-xo.html
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Bradford White OEM Anode Rod - amzn.to/37DkV5v
Segmented Magnesium Rod - amzn.to/3kdzkuh
Bradford White Heat Trap - amzn.to/37zU0aQ
V-Jaw Groove Joint Pliers - amzn.to/3sjtE52
24" Pipe Wrench - amzn.to/3aGuu5Q
Plumber's Teflon Tape - amzn.to/3dPfV1V
Thread Sealant (Pipe Dope) - amzn.to/3kaYslA
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This is what these videos are supposed to be like. Well done sir
Hi Patrick, I'm glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Thank god! Finally , an instructional video without convoluted dialogue that confuses people. Bless you, sir!
Hi Tyler, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. :)
Clear, concise instructions, and to the point! Wish other youtubers would do the same! Thanks!
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
The best video yet. No dumb dialogue. I will do this today
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Great video; super helpful and on-point, short, excellent video angles, and no annoying voiceover or music. I wish more "How to" videos were like this. Thank you.
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me such a nice comment. 🙂
great video. step by step instructions no unneeded dialog or steps and the links to the products in the description is a brilliant touch. well done. thank you
Hi Todd, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Wow this and the documentation link are excellent. It is very important, however, to get the exact serial number for the sacrificial rod and heat trap for your particular model. I'm going to use your instructions. I'm a bit nervous about deforming the threads when taking out the old rod, and if it will slip into the tank! I don't understand how your socket bar will just hold that in place come up because it is square. Anyway, I'll have to be careful with that one. The rest of your instructions are very careful and precise. The contractor wanted over $700 to replace the sacrificial rod, almost as much as the water heater costs itself. Ridiculous! Thank you for making this video!
This is such a fantastic video. I have the same water heater and this couldn’t be more helpful. Thank you!
Hi Alexander, I'm really glad to hear that. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Great video. The best one that fully describes the anode replacement for a Bradford White water heater. Well Done! Great links to replacement anodes as well!
Hi Randy, I'm really glad to hear that. Thank you for taking the time to leave me a nice comment. 🙂
Glad I found this video. Now I see that I can just bend the old rod instead of attempting to cut it due to ceiling clearance. Thanks Big Time!!!
Hi, you're very welcome. I'm happy to hear that the video helped you. Thanks for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Thanks to this vid (and another), I just did this last weekend! I ordered the exact anode rod for my unit, as well as the heat trap (which fit snugly in the anode rod without my having the rip out the plastic liner). Things did not go perfectly. For one, I could barely drain half a gallon of water from the unit, with the cold water inlet off and the tub faucet on (perhaps I needed to turn on more faucets)? It was trickling out. But it didn't matter; I didn't get burned or splashed. Also, I could not detach the flue pipe from the unit; it had four holes and the flue pipe seemed to "snap" into those holes, but I could not "snap" it out. But I was able to get my wrenches in there. In fact, I didn't even need the pipe-wrench (perhaps because the rod was already loosened last year when a water-heater guy took out the anode rod and showed me, but wanted to charge me over $800 to replace it, so I told him to put it back in). I just used my V-lock pliers. The rod needed to be sawed about 6" shorter so it matched the old one. No leaks and I saved about $700 (my tools etc cost about $150, but with I get to keep those tools) and I have the satisfaction of knowing I did a good job! Be careful when threading the pipe back in to make sure you ware not cross-threading it! Work slowly!
Hi, I'm really glad to hear that the video helped you. 🙂
$800 just to replace the anode rod?! Wow, that seems excessive.
@@Paul79UF Yeah, he showed me his iPad where there's a pic of a generic flexible rod with an over $700 price tag on it. Then I'm sure there'd be labor. That, as well as his sky-high quote to "fix/replace" the expansion tank on top (for another $800, when all it needed was inflation!) motivated me to look for these videos. And that was a "reputable" company. I mean, the water heater itself cost about $800. Crazy.
Great job. I have to check mine, might have some corrosion
HOLY CRAP.....I would go on Google and warn others and give him a 1 star rating. I just replaced my heater 2 years ago the guy charged me $450 for the heater and $200 for the install (Detroit). Guessing it was his E-store he was showing you, it would have been funny if you called a plumbing supply on speaker and got a quote-"It's $82 dollars for the rod" 😂 Jerk probably gets away with it for those that don't know better, always get 3 quotes.
This is a great video! You actually take the time to even explain which way to turn the tools.
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
@@Paul79UF I just changed out to anode rods. Although I watched several videos prior to yours. I happen to find yours on the exact day that I was going to do the work. Your video should pay dividends many years to come! 🫡
Hi, I did the same thing before I changed my anode rod. I watched lots of other videos but I wanted to make my own to help out others with the exact same water heater. I also plan to watch my own video before I do the procedure again in a few more years.
Thanks a lot for the video. I was wondering how would I replace it, because the heater was lifted close to the ceiling and I didn't realize you could bend the old anode rod and there were new flexible rods. Very useful!
Hi John, I'm glad you like the video. :) Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to edit this and making it as efficient as possible. It takes time and talent; thanks for sharing🙂
Hi, I'm glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
My old G.E. water heater that lasted eighteen years had a standalone anode rod nut. It also had flexible lines installed by me. It was easy to replace. No need to remove the hot side plumbing at all. But at the time it leaked; I could not locate a thirty gallon heater any where. So I called a plumber and he claimed he had one in his shop. He installed a Bradford White Defender with solid copper tubes. He told me these flex lines eventually leak, Uh no leaks in eighteen years. Well this new heater is now nine years old and I thought it didn't come with an anode rod at all. I'm glad I came across your video. Thank You. My next heater will hopefully have an external anode option and I will replace those solid copper tubes with flexible lines again.
Hi, I'm glad you like the video. 🙂
If you want your next water heater to have a separate anode rod that is easier to replace, look for a Rheem Classic. My family member has one and it was definitely easier to replace the rod. Here's my video of that procedure - th-cam.com/video/u6w88TXMbg8/w-d-xo.html
@@Paul79UF Exactly what I need, Thank You for this, much appreciated. .Cheers
Hey excellent video tutorial. I like how you used 1/2” extension so pipe don’t collapse. The nipple should be hexed inside like hex key so you can use it to reinstall new one without damage threads.
Hi Joseph, that's an excellent idea! I wish they had done that. 🙂 I'm glad you like the guide. Thank you for taking the time to leave me a nice comment.
ya his lucky ..most videos i watched the whole heater move around when they wanna un-screw on top is VERY HARD in there!
What hex size extension to use to prevent the nipple from collapsing ?
@@SFBenjaminK I've heard that and seen it in videos as well. Our house was built in 2015 and the climate is dry, so it was easy to get out the old one.
Hi HenryT, I used a torque stick that has a 1/2" drive on it. It looks like these on Amazon - amzn.to/3ZBSyNv
You could probably just also put a 1/2" drive extension bar or the 1/2" drive on a ratchet into the opening.
Almost asmr-like soothing video and well made refreshing
Hi, I'm glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
A most excellent video! Thanks!
Thank you! I've been looking for this exact video and it gives me the confidence to tackle my HW which is same as yours. And thanks for the links. Kudos on your video.
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
On my water heater, the top cover did not line up with the hole for hot water (touching the side of the original pipe) so I could not get the threads to grab at all with the new rod. I ended up loosening the top cover and rotating it to line it up better and that fixed the issue. Screwed in just fine after the adjustment.
Hi Michael, I'm glad you were able to figure it out. 🙂
Thanks for the video. Definitely found it helpful. Was amusing to see some of the same images in your video as pictures I encountered when I was searching for anode rods on what I'm guessing was your amazon review for the segmented anode rod. I ended up drilling out the hole in the plastic insert with an 11/16th drill bit and the heat trap fits basically perfectly. Although you had to go stupid slow with the drill otherwise the bit would grip and the insert would just spin around. I didn't have a torque stick but a long socket did the job for me. New rod is in place with no leaks so far and as far as I can tell no boogered up threads.
Hi Felix, yes, that is amusing that you also saw my Amazon review. 😀
I'm really glad you like the video.
That's great that the replacement went well for you. Thanks for taking the time to write me a nice comment.
Nice great step by step video moments with all the parts and procedure. I was wondering about the clearance space, the segmented rod and the bending helped. Thank you!.
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Wow. This was great! I know little about plumbing but know so much more after watching these clear instructions. Thank you -- and for the parts info. Questions: I noticed that you took a picture of a 6-year-old corroded rod. How often should one replace the anode rod if you have hard water and should the rod be aluminum vs. magnesium for a Bradford White tank?
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. I've read a variety of opinions that the anode rod should be replaced every 3 years, every 5 years or even every 7 years. So I figured that 6 years was long enough.
The old rod didn't look that bad and I probably could have left it there for another year or two.
The new rod is inexpensive, so I'll replace it again after 5 to 7 years.
We have very hard water here in SW Utah. I installed a water softener just recently.
From what I've read, magnesium is better. It supposedly offers better protection from corrosion and magnesium is beneficial to your health.
The aluminum rods can be cheaper and last longer, but they don't protect as well. Plus the trace aluminum in your water can be harmful to your health.
Awesome video, thanks! I found another replacement anode on Amazon from Eastman. Reviewers say the heat trap fit right in, so ordered that one.
Hi Chris, I'm glad you like the video. Would you please share the part number for the anode rod you used? Or share the link? Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I hate that the anode is part of the hot water outlet nipple. My BW HWT is 12 years old now and I just fixed it by replacing the circuit board on the gas control valve and the thermopile assembly. Unfortunately I didn't touch the anode and now I'm afraid it'll be seized in there.
Just FYI there are also anodes with a 5" nipple so that the threads do not get damaged upon installation or removal. Also, good call on the magnesium - I've read that they offer better protection than aluminum.
Hi, thanks for the tip about the anode with the 5" nipple. I'll look into that for the next time.
I hope you can get yours replaced. Good luck. 🙂
The old anode rod was in great shape. Plenty of life left in it for more years. Sadly, the way Bradford White does it, theres no standalone anode rod with hex head for socket/impact gun removal and inspection. In that case you could have just put the old rod back in without having to purchase a new rod (which are never cheap) that wasnt needed. But with the Bradford, once you unscrew the anode rod to inspect the rod, the nipple threads get ruined. So one is forced to have the new anode on hand even when the old rod is still good.
I just got a new Bradford White this past week. Love the hot water heater but not a fan of their anode rod setup. 😖
Hi John, the rod cost me $39.00 back in 2021. The old one was 6 years old but it did have some life left. I'll probably wait for 7 to 8 years before I change it again. Or maybe just buy a new water heater since this one is a 2015 model year. It will be 10 years old next year.
About to do mine and video is great
Hi, I'm really glad you like the video. 🙂
Good video, thanks
Hi, I'm glad you like the video. Thank you for taking the time to write me a nice comment. 🙂
Excellent.
Hi Joseph, I'm really glad that you liked the video. 🙂
almost collapsed the nipple and came looking for help. thank you
Hi Victor, I'm glad to hear that it all worked out for you. 🙂 I had read that tip about inserting something into the nipple to prevent it from collapsing on a plumbing forum.
What size?
Excellent tutorial.
Do you know if the segmented replacement magnesium anode you recommended is applicable for all Bradford White heaters with this type of nipple head?
Hi Randy, I only verified that it was compatible with my model number but I assume they all have the same size hot water nipple. If the rod is too long you can always cut off a segment. (Don't use power tools on the magnesium rod. The magnesium powder is flammable.)
@@Paul79UF 2 years later and I'm doing the second replacement of my anode rod following your instructions. I have had no problems sourcing a segmented magnesium anode rod and matching Heat Trap both times.
.
How important is is to use the BW Heat trap vs the one that comes in the replacement anode?
Hi, I guess you could use the heat trap that comes with the replacement anode rod. I just chose to use the BW part.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Hi Veronica, I'm really glad you like the video. 🙂
2:53 I don't think you are supposed to remove the "plastic sleeve" in order to fit the heat trap in. I just received my BW anode rod along with heat trap (exact ref. parts for my model) and the heat trap "snapped into place" inside the rod, with a firm push, with the 'plastic sleeve/insert" still in there. I did not have to remove it. Not sure what difference this makes, but I'm no pro. And removing something the anode rod came with, esp. with such difficulty and mess, does not seem correct. My 2 cents.
Hi, this was two years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy, but it seemed to me like I could not use the new BW heat trap with the generic anode rod unless I removed that plastic sleeve. Maybe I was wrong. I'll order the same parts in a few years and try it your way when I replace the rod again.
The new heat strap seemed to fit securely in the nipple.
Thanks for the tip. 🙂
@@Paul79UF Your video and written tutorial gave me confidence to undertake this rather complex maintenance task instead of shelling out several hundred dollars to a contractor (yes, they wanted over $700 to replace an anode rod!). Thank you!!
Hi, I'm really glad to hear that! 😄
Can you reuse the old heat trap piece?
Hi, I had read that it was a good idea to replace it. The rubber starts to break down with age. It wasn't very expensive.
I guess if your old one looks good, you could reinstall it.
How did you remove the plastic insert in the flexible anode
Hi, I used the small saw blade on a Leatherman tool to partially cut it in a few places until it could be pulled out with needle nose pliers. Try to avoid cutting the metal part of the rod. Good luck. 🙂
Worked out fine thanks
I'm not keen on grabbing the nipple by the threads so close to the end, as it could collapse under the pressure of the twisting motion of the wrench, should it be befrozon on. The nipple should have had a longer shank to address this issue. Any comments on this concern?
Hi, I address that issue at 1:55 in the video. I inserted a torque stick into the opening that fits snugly.
Then I loosen the old rod by turning the hot water nipple using the threads.
The threads will get damaged, but the nipple shouldn't collapse since the torque stick is in there.
You could probably also use a large bolt or maybe an extension bar from a ratchet set.
I hope that helps. 🙂
Hi Paul, thanks for making an informative teaching video. Looked to me like the old anode was still thick, with maybe a lot of life left in it? What is your opinion? By the time you have the old one out and a new one in hand I would probably just go ahead and replace it too, especially for the sake of making a teaching video. But for the average person, does it make sense to check your old anode to see how much of it is left before ordering a new one?
Hi Doug, I'm glad you like the video. I had read that the average anode rod lasts for 5 to 7 years before needing to be replaced. Our water heater was about 6 years old when I made this video, so I figured it was worth buying the new rod for $39 and also a few tools.
The old rod was probably thick enough for a few more years, but I figured I might as well change it and not have to worry about it again for at least 5 years. Our house was previously occupied by one person and I bet we use a lot more hot water.
I was also worried about damaging the hot water nipple on the old anode rod while removing it and then having to wait a few days (with no hot water) for a new one to arrive from Amazon or to run around town trying to find a replacement on short notice.
The white coating on the old anode makes it unusable for the actual purpose of flaking away.
I forget what they said caused the white coating, but essentially it will never get smaller. Furthermore if your anode does get the white coating you need to change to either an aluminum or zinc anode when you replace it.
The new magnesium rod he just put in will just get a white coating and not do the job it's in there to do all over again.
@@marvthecarpenter Hi, I'm surprised to hear that. The old rod was certainly eaten away and missing little chunks of the magnesium the entire length of it. We have hard water in this area, so perhaps the white coating you see is just some calcium deposits.
The completeness of the old rod made me worry that the old rod wasn't actually doing its work at all.
Well, you'll have to butcher the threads to get the old one out so just "inspection" is not possible. It's a shame they didn't take that into consideration.
I wanted to ask another question please. Instead of going through the hassle of removing the plastic insert at top of the flexible anode rod can I use a 3/4 npt female x 3/4 npt male 2" nipple adapter (if I can find one) then just add the Heat Trap to the end of the extended nipple, will this work? Thanks again for your help.
Hi, I've never done that myself, but I imagine it would work. I would ask on a plumbing advice forum to be sure. Good luck!
Thank you
Hi David, I'm glad you like the video. 🙂
good video. put teflon tape on the flex end side of the anode nipple too @4:00
Hi Patrick, I read that you should not use Teflon tape on flex connectors hoses that have rubber washers. The rubber washer seals the connection and there is no need for Teflon tape or pipe dope.
When I took the flex connector off the old anode rod, there was no tape or pipe dope. I had done some research and everything I read said that is the correct way.
@@Paul79UF NOt going to hurt to have tape or dope on it. If / when the rubber washer breaks down it will leak at the threads. I don't like leaks down the road
That's a good point. I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thank you.
I just bought a 40 gallon from heater company brought & installed it mine call ECO defender & looks newer model because built in August 2021, they says is better controller & everything will see & Bought 4 years extended warranty on that for $170 really worth it ..so is for 10 years now ..i just flush & drain it every year not worry about that , BUT how u bend the rod? because mine is it closet not much room on top
Hi, the magnesium anode rod in this 2015 model year water heater was corroded away after 6 years and it was very easy to bend it. Magnesium is a relatively soft metal. I'm sure it was easier to bend since the rod was very hot from being inside the water heater.
My water heater has solid copper pipe so I would have to cut the copper pipe in order to replace the anode rod, should I install a union on the hot side for easy access next time ?
Hi, that would probably be a good idea. Good luck. 🙂
Thanks
Is there anything on the cold side?
Hi Rohit, there is only one sacrificial anode rod in the heater that is attached to the hot water nipple. The cold water nipple is just attached to a plastic "dip tube". Here's my written version of this video guide that has more information - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html
I hope that helps. 🙂
@@Paul79UF do you know how I can take picture inside tank with anode rod out. I want to see how bad it is inside with 9 years not changing rod
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 Hi Rohit, that's a great question. I would buy a borescope (also known as a "snake camera") on Amazon - amzn.to/3U7pZq3
They have cameras that attach to your cell phone with lights on the end that can be inserted into the water heater.
The anode rod you took out looked new. The heat trap I replaced 4 years ago was missing the black rubber portion of the heat trap. Waste of money. Who knows when the rubber fell off. The original one I replaced after 5 years was also missing the black rubber. Note if using a water softner anode rod service is more frequent. This time I replaced the Arod after 3Y11m and the anode rod was totally gone. Last one was done a 5 years/Totally Gone. Prior I inspected at 3yrs = Good. I shall put my unit on a 3-3.5 yrs change interval.
Hi, the old rod was six years old. It was pitted and slightly worn away. I'm glad I replaced it for my own peace of mind.
You can see better pictures of the old rod on my website -
www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html
I'll keep that in mind about the water softener issue. I just installled one last year.
Thank you for your comment.
Tubs are usually pressure balanced, use a lav to drain a house properly!
Hi Aaron, I'm sorry but I'm a bit confused by your comment. Would you please explain what you mean? By "lav" do you mean a "lavatory" (bathroom)? Thank you. 🙂
I did some research and I'm guessing that you are suggesting that I should have opened the hot water faucet on a sink. Is that correct?
Yes. Remove the aerator on a bathroom faucet and use that as the tap to open to let the air purge from the system.
@@marvthecarpenter Thank you for the tip.
Does shower still get hot water if the magnesium rod is bad
Hi John, I imagine that the hot water would still work. There is a small chance that a piece of debris could clog the hot water nipple attached to the anode rod.
I ordered a magnesium anode but it looks like it could be aluminum. Is there a way to confirm an anode is magnesium?
Hi Eric, I found some tips on a plumbing site -
"Magnesium shavings will burn very brightly. Aluminum will not. Shave a little off and try to ignite it."
*(BE CAREFUL!)
"Magnesium is stiffer and somewhat springy. Aluminum is dead soft, bending easily. Aluminum rods are heavier for a given size. Except for Rheem, magnesium anodes have a bump on the top of the hex head, while aluminum is flat. Aluminum is a brighter metal while magnesiun is darker grey... In general, use magnesium anodes, as they can protect better and do not make the volume of corrosion byproduct that aluminum does. Dare I add, ingesting magnesium from the water heater is not a health concern. Hope that helps."
"Doesn't the top of the rod (the threaded part of which the top is exposed outside the heater) have a rounded bump in the center if it is Magnesium and has no bump if aluminum?"
___________
I hope that helps.
But why your old rod is still almost like new after 6 years? It only lost a tiny bit.
Hi, if you look at the 2:48 time mark, the old rod has lots of missing material. It definitely could have lasted at least a few more years but it was such a cheap thing to replace for peace of mind. The house was built in 2015 and we bought it in 2020. I don't mind replacing it every 6-7 years to make sure the water heater doesn't get damaged.
#1 The Heat Trap won't fit with the plastic sleeve installed in this flexible Anode from MFG. #2 If you remove the plastic sleeve in this Anode then the hole will be to large and the Heat Trap will not have a snug fit, it will be loose and not snug as it should. What is the fix for this?
Hi Stephen, If you look at the 1:30 mark in the video, the hot water flex pipe seems to hold the old heat trap securely in place. The outer edge of the heat trap is slightly deformed from being pushed down by the gasket inside the flex hose connection.
At 4:05 in the video, you can see that the new heat trap has the same outer lip that will be held down by the hot water flex pipe connection.
Another person in the comments said that they were able to just push the heat trap into the new anode rod even with that plastic sleeve in the way. I'll try that next time.
Thank you so much! When my new anode arrives I'll see if the heat trap will fit into the plastic sleeve, if not I'll have to cut out the plastic sleeve and let the connection fitting hold the Heat Trap in place. As an alternative can I just not use the Heat Trap if I choose not to remove the plastic core? Thanks again for your help!
@@Paul79UF Wanted to mention that in your video @1:30 the Heat Trap is installed in a solid Magnesium Rod that looks like it does not have that plastic sleeve, if it does it's thinner then the ones I've seen installed on flexible anode rods. For some reason all flexible anode rods I've seen listed all have a thick plastic core sleeve.
Hi Stephen, I see what you mean. So far the new anode rod has been working as expected with that plastic sleeve removed to make room for the new heat trap. The water heater is quiet and our natural gas bill has been the same as before the replacement. So I'm assuming that removing that plastic sleeve was an acceptable modification.
Do you have to do both sides??
Hi, no, there is only one sacrificial anode rod in the heater that is attached to the hot water nipple. The cold water nipple is just attached to a plastic "dip tube". Here's my written version of this video guide that has more information - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html
I hope that helps. 🙂
@@Paul79UF OK cool thank you sir
Too bad not everyone has flex pipe going into their water heater.
Hi Bob, yes, I agree. I saw the videos of water heaters with copper pipes. That does look like a pain. Every house we looked at in this area before we bought our home had flex hoses on the water heaters. I'm sure some of the older homes have copper pipes but we only looked at 2010+ homes. I hope the video was still helpful. 🙂
@@Paul79UF oh yes it was for sure. I wouldn’t have been able to do half these repairs if it weren’t for people like you that do these videos. It’s saved me lots of money. My anode is hidden inside the hot water line! Lol!
I'm glad to hear that it all worked out. 😁
@@Paul79UF 👍👍
My home is a 2011 and has copper into pvc. I'm going to have to cut the pvc to remove it and put a coupling in later.
Check out the full DIY guide for changing the magnesium sacrificial anode rod in a Bradford White natural gas or electric water heater -
www.paulstravelpictures.com/Bradford-White-Water-Heater-Anode-Rod-Replacement-Guide/index.html
I will stay away from any Bradford White water heater because it doesn't use a much cheaper & easier-to-replace separate anode rod as other brands do.
Hi, I agree. I changed out the anode rod in a Rheem water heater and it was much easier having a separate rod.
If you get a Rheem, here's my video guide for changing the anode rod - th-cam.com/video/u6w88TXMbg8/w-d-xo.html