I started my watercolor journey with Canson and Cotman paints and nearly gave it up. A friend gave me a sheet of Arches and it changed my outlook instantly. I say the paper is the most important factor in watercolor painting. You can't go cheap with paper.
@@Drumaier I'm so sorry for the delay in responding, Drumaier. The message got a little lost. I had a bad batch of paper from Waterford many years ago that ruined two paintings, so after that I used Arches almost exclusively. That said, Arches quality hasn't been quite what it used to be. I recent tried and fell in love with Winsor & Newton 300lb cold pressed watercolor paper. It stays incredibly flat and takes the paint beautifully. That would be my recommended paper at this time, with Arches in second.
Am I the only one who thinks hard edges on watercolor is beautiful? It's the kind of effect that can be achieved only by watercolor and I really love seeing it in a painting.
Being new to watercolor and still learning, this is truly one of the most helpful useful videos I’ve ever watched. It reiterated my happiness in choosing to purchase only high end professional quality paper and paints to use as I learn more. I purchased quality paper and quality paint in the beginning tho it wasn’t professional And I became so frustrated that I quit for a while thinking I simply couldn’t “do” watercolor. When I started back I bought the highest quality paper I could get and use only that as I learn which has alone made me actually enjoy learning watercolor Tho I’m Still trying to find the best quality paint that I like, I’m enjoying that process so much thanks to great channels and videos like this one. So thank you!
That's wonderful to hear, Kim (that you selected quality products from the start). I actually did the same when I was learning, and am so glad I did as well. It's amazing what a difference it makes. I'm very glad my videos have been helpful to you.
Your comparison is very thorough and fair, unlike many youtubers who seem to do more advertising or biases than truth. Your video quality is great too with only useful clips, removing fast forwarding unnecessary waitings. Oh, and your calming voice! Thank you so much.
Thank you for the compliments. I'm so glad you enjoyed it, Hai. For the most part, I like to allow the viewers to make their decisions based on what they see/observe.
I enjoyed the professional paper comparison too. Thanks I found that even low quality paper (even worst than what you used) can create interesting effects but needs some learning. I noted is that with expensive paper I tend to be more careful, cheap paper encourage to draw, paint and test with less constraints, it can surprise you. I think professional paper is better to learn bcz is easier to correct mistakes. I consider academic and student grade a world in between not always easy or fun to paint, with some skill it can be good, i made and exhibition were there were 8 paintings in hotpress cheap paper without cotton, acid free, some of the landscapes were sold, the first work with this paper was very bad, I was surprised by the results of the second one and I realised that in some cases you have to learn how to use it, never expecting to work like a professional one. Thanks again for your wonderful video work.
Wow, what timing. I was just asking someone about just this subject, about how important professional vs student grade is. I'm just learning watercolor so but student grade everything and was wondering why I just can't get certain effects to work right. Now I know. I thank you, my bank account? , not so happy 😊
lol - I am sorry about your bank account, Elizabeth. I know paper in particular can be painful to invest in, but it is sooo worth it in the end. I'm really glad the upgrade solved your problem with achieving certain effects. That's exactly why I made this! : )
Yes, there’s a huge difference between Arches and other low grade watercolor paper. I started with student grade bec it’s affordable. Now that I have been painting more and getting serious on learning watercolor painting, I started to move to a higher quality paper and I get better results. One instructor states, “if you want to learn watercolor it’s better to use the right tools by using professional grade or you will not get the same result. ‘’ That is very true. However, one thing I also have learned, each professional grade paper acts differently. But Arches, so far, is my favorite. Thank you for this demonstration. I watched a few of your classes in Skillshare. Can you show how to paint a landscape, flower or anything in Skillshare? You are a very talented artist.
I'm so glad you benefitted from the video. I'm also glad you were able to make your way to higher grade materials. One reason I made this video is that sometimes people give up on watercolor not realizing their materials are what is making success so difficult. You're right about the papers, too. I have two other videos that demonstrate how the different professional brands respond to paint and there is sometimes a huge difference! I'm glad you also like my classes on Skillshare. You know, I purposely avoided creating classes that demonstrate how to paint specific items/features because there are already so many very good classes like that and I wanted to comprehensively teach students how to actually paint. That said, at the end of my Mastering Brushstrokes II class I do demonstrate a watercolor and an oil landscape. You may enjoy that! I will keep your request in mind, however. My classes on painting basics is almost complete...
Great advice...this will really help a beginner like me from wondering why watercolour techniques don't turn out as expected. It can be discouraging and time consuming to work these things out by yourself. Thank you
Lorna, that is one of the main reasons I made that video. I really wanted to help relatively new artists save time and frustration by making sure their materials were of good quality. One can so easily get discouraged when in reality it may not be you as much as your products.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt well you helped me tbh so it worked!! Thank you for your videos, I've recently invested in watercolor materials and I have to say you've helped me a lot :D
What an eye opener for someone like myself who is a beginner. I will use the student paper for lessons and the Arches 100 cotton paper for my finished Art Work. I thought that as a beginner using Student paper would be fine, so now I have quite a bit of Canson paper to use up!
What a great video. I've watched many paper comparisons but yours is superb. The angled shots where you showed us how much water remained on the paper, and how much it buckled, is extremely instructive. I'm about to watch it again and test along with you!
@@JillPoyerdFineArt I am embarrassed at how many times I have watched these videos. I'm doing my third round of paper testing now, and I created a spreadsheet to take notes on each paper. Each time I perform tests, I come back to your videos, and catch new things each time. After my tests today, I will have tested 42 different papers (16 different brands, in different finishes, weights and colors). I was able to get some sample packs from Jackson's and Cheap Joe's, so that made it easier and less expensive to try out all these papers. Most of my results agree with yours, with a few exceptions, which may be due to manufacturing inconsistencies. Thank you again for these exceptionally helpful videos!
@@jennw6809 No need to apologize, Jenn! I'm glad it's been inspiring to you. It's amazing how helpful it is to stop and actually examine our papers, isn't it? We often don't think about doing the drudge work, but it really pays off.
Wow, this is great! I'd never given much thought to paper quality, I guess because I didn't know what to look for. This clearly demonstrates the performance difference you talk about. Thank you.
Wow, what a great comparison in both paper and paint quality. I am just getting started with watercolor as I normally paint in oil. I did purchase the canson watercolor paper pad, but after watching this video, I think I'll be taking it back and purchasing some Arches paper. What a difference the paper and paint make! Thank you for sharing this video with us!
I'm so glad you saw this in time to make the exchange. The paper is so very important, especially for someone who is truly trying to learn. I'm very glad I could help.
I love the clarity here. I am working with watercolor pencils and just plain colored pencils. I’m using Polychromos and Albrecht Durer. I was having frustrating results with Strathmore and Fabriano Studio. So much so, I ordered CD Supracolors-thinking that would be better-which I’m sure it will. In my supplies I found a small sample sheet of Legion/Stonehenge Aqua Coldpress 300 lb...it’s all old and dirty. But I tried the AD magenta on it-WOW! Beautiful results! Fortunately there’s an art supply 30-miles away, I got a block of 300 lb Arches coldpress. Now I’m nervous to open and use it. I think I need to check out your classes! I’ve taken oil painting and drawing classes, but colored pencils/watersoluble pencils are new to me. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad you're getting better results, Rachel. This is one of the reasons I made this video (and the one on paints). I knew there were artists out there feeling very frustrated and not yet realizing some of it could be related to their products. I cringe when I'm in an art or craft store and I see people excited purchasing the super low quality materials. If they only knew. I do teach watercolor classes online...not colored pencil, but I'm sure they have wonderful instructors for that medium as well if you decide to look into it.
That's a great point, Tom. Someone else mentioned blending colors. Both would have been very good additions and something to keep in mind for future videos like this.
This has helped me a lot. I have been wondering what I have been doing wrong after buying some higher quality watercolor paint. I never realized how much the paper mattered passed the cold press and 140 ib.
I'm so glad it helped you, Rachel. Yes, it's really incredible how it can impact your work. I was really anxious to try to help others realize this and hopefully save some grief.
I totally agree about the paper and how much of an impact that can have. I would picture students giving up on watercolor out of frustration not knowing that was the fault of the materials - specifically (usually) the paper. I learned this hard lesson long long ago when purchasing student paper for my niece and then showing her some techniques. Um...no, I couldn't because the paper (and in this case the paint as well) were so bad. That was a flash point for me, and since then have wanted to help people realize the difference and have a better experience. I haven't covered brushes because I personally think they have the least impact of the three primary materials (brushes, paper, paint). A kolinsky sable is luscious and is certainly a favorite of mine, but great art can still be created with lesser synthetics. In fact, one of my favorite brushes (a rigger) is a $2 synthetic from a craft store. I like it better than my $16 sable rigger. But...as I said...a high quality round in particular is very, very nice to work with. Sables are softer (as are most other natural hair bristles) and sometimes I actually prefer their floppier nature. But it all depends on the manufacturer, material, etc.
Instead of taking various professional TH-camrs' suggestions of what watercolor paper to use now, I can make an educated judgment to go everything professional. U get what you pay for as they say. Thank you
I'm so glad these videos have been helpful for you, Christopher. I think you'll be quite surprised when you try Arches (or another professional brand). The difference can be amazing.
Good info, thanks. I'd like to add my personal real world experience, specifically NON-differences. 1. I switched from Arches to Fabriano paper, to save 1/3+ the cost. I cannot tell the difference in performance. 2. I prefer the experience of painting on 300# to 140#. But I see no difference in the final results. I suppose if you work VERY wet, the 300# would perform better. For me personally it is not worth the significant extra cost. 3. I experience no difference between the two sides of Arches and Fabriano sheets. I detect no difference in results. Your mileage may vary. Your expectations and requirements will vary. There is no downside to spending more money. Except the money.
Thank you for offering your input, Ichiro. I, too, have used both Arches and Fabriano and do notice a difference, but of course everyone is individual. It may also depend on the specific paper - I like Fabriano hot pressed paper, but not their cold pressed so much. The cold pressed texture design didn’t please me for one thing. Regarding the 300lb, yes, it’s mostly the fact that you have a sturdier surface that is less likely to warp, but having more physical paper (thicker paper) also means more cotton to absorb the paint. It’s slightly different but as you said, mainly when working very wet. I think it also takes scrubbing a little better as well. Just a little. As for the two sides, there are times I didn't notice much difference, but there have been other times when I started a piece on the reverse side to save money (I don’t do that anymore) and had to abandon the piece as it didn’t take the paint the same. This could also be related to brand, perhaps, but it’s good to be aware of. There is an official "front side" with many brands.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt I forgot to mention that I work on rough press, on which small differences may be obscured or otherwise less important. And thanks for more good info.
Extraordinary analysis and lucid presentation of comparison. This is a very very helpful video for students. Thanks a lot for Your effort and kind heart to put the great effort.
i currently use canson paper and cotman newton student grade watercolors. honestly, the paper made a big difference bc i began using normal “drawing paper” for the canson brand, which supported alcohol based markers but went through.
Ambas marcas son muy buenas. Solía usar Arches porque prefería la textura del papel, un patrón menos predecible. Pero ... ahora prefiero el papel Winsor & Newton, y el prensado en frío es prácticamente el estándar de la industria. Es el más fácil de trabajar y más versátil. El papel de W&N ha sido fantástico y Arches ahora es mi segunda opción. Espero que sea útil.
With high grade 100% (what I used to call rag paper because that's what its made from) an artist can and I often do paint on both sides. I find more tooth/texture on the reverse side of the watermark. But it's negligible so an artist can feel comfortable painting on both sides with no difference. I think anyone starting out in W/C should watch this video. Thanks so much for your videos. I think I've seen most.
Thank you Dan. You know I used to paint on the reverse side but I will say that I notice a slight difference and sometimes small flaws in how it takes the paint. But that could be a matter of brand as well.
I've recently purchased Arches (waiting for shipment ) 140lb and I'm looking forward to seeing the difference. As a newbie to the art of watercolor I was getting so frustrated with simple wet on wet results, but I'm not giving up!
Hola, sobre lo que mencionas en este video del encolado interno y externo donde puedo encontrar más información específicamente para papel de acuarela. Saludos y excelente vídeo
I use Strathmore 500 cotton paper, it's amazing and I'll never go back to wood pulp. But I'll never use arches since they use rabbit glue for the sizing
Yes, it's amazing the difference it makes, isn't it? Arches isn't quite what it used to be anyway. There are certainly other options. I review several professional watercolor papers in a separate video, in case you're interested: th-cam.com/video/DZhswCAM32Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jill, this video brought me to your channel. I've watched some of your videos now and also joined your Udemy classes. Thank you very much for such professional content both here and on Udemy. It's a joy to learn from you.
Very nice to watch. The every 1st thing I leaned before I started painting in watercolor, if to always use artist grade papers. Its the most important. However I would have loved to have seen a comparison with artist grade papers against other artist grade paper since I would never use student/academy grade papers anyway. I am looking for something to replace my Arches because the quality has declined dramatically since 2009.
It's wonderful that you learned to select high quality paper as a new painting. That's so often not the case. You got off to a good start. I actually plan to do a comparison of artist grade papers at some point. I, too, am an Arches user and would like to see what else would compare or even surpass. I've heard good things about Winsor and Newton Artist paper....Might be something to look into, although I can't recommend it personally yet.
i started with strathmore 400 series watercolor paper and koi sakura watercolor set... i almost gave up on my watercoloring hobby... i soon switched to aquabee watercolor paper and winsor and newton cotman set of 45... it was a much better experience... i can't find the same brand of bee watercolor paper and so i am considering arches watercolor paper... i hope it will do me much better...
Arches should work very nicely for you, although I have to say that my new personal favorite is Winsor & Newton cold pressed paper. Either should work nicely for you. And, yes, I've heard good things about a specific version of Bee paper. I can't recall which one, but you may find it in the comments below. I'm sorry you can't seem to find it now.
You're very welcome, Soki. And I hope you enjoy your new paper brand. I've been recently working on Winsor & Newton cold pressed paper and love it. An additional option perhaps.
I buy Canson because I heard it was really good and had a decent price, but always thought the way it performed was my fault and that I didn't know how to use watercolors. Now I know and I'm switching to Arches as son as I can, but do you profesionals out there think Winsor & Newton paint is good enought for Arches?
Absolutely. That is actually what many of my paints are, as long as it's the professional grade Winsor & Newton paint - not Cotman. BTW - Winsor & Newton makes a really nice watercolor paper as well. It's becoming my favorite, actually.
I've been so frustrated with Cotman (student grade paint) and student grade paper. I think I may upgrade to some arches paper to see how the Cotman performs- fantastic video and eye opening. May explain why I can't paint like the tutors.
Hi, I just bought a watercolor block called L’Aquarelle Canson Heritage. It’s 140 lb, 100%cotton, acid free, with a rough grain. It was a bit over $2.00 a sheet. I had read that Arches and Canson had merged or one bought the other out...? Dunno...maybe I ought to return it. What’s your take on this paper? Great video by the way. Very informative.
Hi Elizabeth - I looked up the brand and it seems to be a very nice paper to try. I usually avoid anything by Canson, but this particular product reads very well and is their top line. It lists as 100% cotton and is supposed to be very white without the use of brighteners. Nice. It sounds like they use synthetic sizing, but based on the reviews I've read it must be a good quality. I would try it, personally. I didn't really get too many red flags on it. Here's a very, very detailed review of the brand: www.desireherman.com/2017/04/canson-heritage-the-arches-killer.html Yes, Arches had been bought out by Canson but apparently they're now owned by AHLSTROM-MUNKSJÖ. Whether that's good or bad, I can't say at this point. I've used Arches for a long time, and I swear I noticed a lessening in quality when Canson bought them out - I had serious issues with a few batches of paper. But recently the paper has been quite good. Perhaps the new ownership?? I'm not sure. But the Canson Heritage paper does seem worth a try. I hope all of this helps!
Yes, I actually plan to try the Heritage line at some point in order to compare it to Arches (my go-to brand). Hopefully, most people will realize I was referring specifically to Canson's student grade paper.
Another interesting paper is the new Winsor & Newton 100% coton. I have been using Arches for many years, and right now I think W&N may be best, at lest for wet on wet. It allows me more control, and it keeps the humidity for two hours.
Interesting! If I can ever find the time, I really want to do a video like this one but comparing the professional brands (another person had mentioned this idea and I love it). I'll make sure W&N paper is on my list.
Wow, that's really good to know about the lack of buckle and about the fibers, Weedus. I'm anxious to try out that paper. I've always been very pleased with other W&N products. Have you tried their loose paper sheets as well by any chance?
You're in luck! I actually recently ordered the paper for just such a comparison. I'm going to work on comparing seven professional brands of watercolor paper in the next 2 months or so.
Hello, i just want to say thank you for making and sharing this video! this is a very helpful video and the way you explained it is very easy to understand. You deserve more recognition, i feel like this video is very underrated. Very informative! You just gained 1 subscriber :)
Excellent video!! 👌 Now, i wonder if is any good paper to fill the massive gap between student and mega professional (arches)? I've heard that that the fabriano rosaspina with 60% cotton could be a good option but they are sold as big papers rather than blocks. Any idea's about a paper that is not as expensive, pseudo profesional ?? Thank you all.
Well, this is a very good topic. I actually answered a similar question a while back. I'm just going to paste it here because I think you'll find it helpful. I hope so anyway. Q - I have a question what is your take on the quality from some of the new paper companies offering professional grade 100% cotton paper; Such as Bee Paper Company and Stonehenge Aquarelle? I have looked at both offerings and have gone with Bee Paper personally (because they offer 100% cotton Aquarelle sketchbooks.) The cost for a package of fifty 6"x9" sheets is about $0.2928/ sheet is quite reasonable, and allows my teenage artist daughter access to cotton paper that would be well out of our budget otherwise. Could this be the advent of quality student grade papers? I will try to emulate your tests on it, but my limited experience with it so far is that it preformed extremely noticably better than the Canson XL paper I had been using, and a great deal better than the Strathmore 300 & 400 series my daughter was using. A - Well, I think you're on to something with these papers, Jacqulyyn. Yes, they're both 100% cotton, which right off the bat should make them perform better with water media. They both get good reviews. From reading up on them, it sounds like the Aquabee might have a little extra external sizing as a few people mentioned flow issues and that the paint remains active for quite a while. This is personal preference. You can always soak your paper first (and let it dry) if you want less surface sizing. You do have to be careful that you get the right product, though, because they have a lesser paper by a similar name - Bee Paper Watercolor Art Journal - that's only 25% cotton. The Stonehenge paper get about equal reviews from what I can tell. The main issue I read about with that one is the tendency for the paper to tear when removing masking fluid or tape. Perhaps if you like your paper taped down, go with their paper blocks rather than pads or sheets (blocks are already secured with glue). They also reported that is has lighter texture - another personal preference. I'm glad you told me about them. I may have to see about getting samples to try them. Might end up being a good paper for students.
Could you do one of these on pastel papers, and especially Conte which paper is best for them. I love using Conte, but have yet to find the best paper.
That's a great idea, but unfortunately I don't work with pastels. That said...you never know. I have a friend who is a professional pastel artist. Maybe she'll join me in the effort some day.
Could you please make a video where you use only student grade art supplies for watercolors? For instance, use Winsor & Newton Conman watercolors, Canson watercolor paper and Raphael watercolor brushes (I don't know if Raphael brushes are student grade or not, but it's what I use because they're fairly well priced and work well)
@@JillPoyerdFineArt Yes! i was thinking more about the style i would like to achieve. I'm not that of a perfectionist, so the academy paper style works perfect for me
I just found your channel and your instruction and knowledge are amazing. I have a question what is your take on the quality from some of the new paper companies offering professional grade 100% cotton paper; Such as Bee Paper Company and Stonehenge Aquarelle? I have looked at both offerings and have gone with Bee Paper personally (because they offer 100% cotton Aquarelle sketchbooks.) The cost for a package of fifty 6"x9" sheets is about $0.2928/ sheet is quite reasonable, and allows my teenage artist daughter access to cotton paper that would be well out of our budget otherwise. Could this be the advent of quality student grade papers? I will try to emulate your tests on it, but my limited experience with it so far is that it preformed extremely noticably better than the Canson XL paper I had been using, and a great deal better than the Strathmore 300 & 400 series my daughter was using.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt oh thank you, I honored that you took the time to answer me. Honestly no rush, whenever you have time; I was just curious. Again, thanks so much for taking the time to read and respond to my comment.
@@jacqulyynw Well, I think you're on to something with these papers, Jacqulyyn. Yes, they're both 100% cotton, which right off the bat should make them perform better with water media. They both get good reviews. From reading up on them, it sounds like the Aquabee might have a little extra external sizing as a few people mentioned flow issues and that the paint remains active for quite a while. This is personal preference. You can always soak your paper first (and let it dry) if you want less surface sizing. You do have to be careful that you get the right product, though, because they have a lesser paper by a similar name - Bee Paper Watercolor Art Journal - that's only 25% cotton. The Stonehenge paper get about equal reviews from what I can tell. The main issue I read about with that one is the tendency for the paper to tear when removing masking fluid or tape. Perhaps if you like your paper taped down, go with their paper blocks rather than pads or sheets (blocks are already secured with glue). They also reported that is has lighter texture - another personal preference. I'm glad you told me about them. I may have to see about getting samples to try them. Might end up being a good paper for students. Was this helpful?
Thank you for sharing this great testings, may I know how do you store your watercolor paper to avoid the expiration which looks like - a translucent look (almost see-through?
Sure, Willie. I stack my watercolor paper on flat large shelves in a dry closet. Finished paintings are stored (if they're not framed) in archival clear bags and then stacked on the same closet shelves. I haven't experienced the paper becoming translucent. I'm wondering what brand/paper you're using? Is it rice paper? I could see that possibly being the case.
It’s pretty amazing how easy it is to avoid headaches paper-wise by choosing 100 % cotton paper over cellulose paper. Sketchbooks/journals however, don’t seem to come with a 100 % cotton paper option, or do they? .
Yes, it seems that many journals are not 100% cotton, but good ones are out there. You can usually find pure cotton journals at an art supply store. (I also often wonder why so many painting journals have such thin paper as well.)
The impact of quality is completely true. I've been painting on Arches 140 professionally more than 25 years. It's the one worldwide accepted BEST paper ever made. The arches pads of 140 are more rough than the sheets so I only use it in a bind. I make all my students get Arches. I've been teaching 15 years. We all use it. Avoid student grade brands. As far as strathmore pads with the brown or yellow covers, avoid them like a tumor.....
Thank you for your input, Mystery Painter. Very valuable - especially knowing your background. I'm always pleased to hear that fellow instructors are guiding their students in this way...so important.
Right now I'm using Fabriano watercolour paper (Torchon extra rough) which is 140 lbs and 25% cotton. I don't think I have ever tried a 100% cotton paper before
Hello! Very interesting and enlightening your video, but I have a question, what do you think about the Chinese watercolors "marie's", do you know? Many thanks and best regards
I hadn't actually heard of them, celso, so I did a little research online. It seems that most people agree they are student grade and that the quality isn't quite up to par. I've never worked with them myself, so I can't validate that, but I did read one review in particular that greatly concerned me: "Some of my students in the past have brought these to class. They are very low quality. For the heck of it, we did test strips and put them in the window. They faded to almost nothing in a matter of weeks." If that's true (and some of the other reviews lead me to think it may be), I'd avoid using them. Wouldn't it be awful if you did a wonderful painting only to find that it faded in a short time (low quality pigments don't hold up well)? I also read some feedback regarding the actual performance of the pigment that didn't sound encouraging. I hope that's helpful. Again, i'm only going by the majority opinion from what I read.
Well, I would say yes and no. Yes, it would lessen the amount of sizing which could benefit those papers that are a little over-sized. I would say no if that paper is constructed so poorly that the sizing washes off unevenly. But generally, I would think a gentle soak might help.
This was super helpful, thank you. Have you ever experienced small white dots appearing on your paper after the paint has dried? This is happening on professional paper with professional paint, but not on every paper I use. I just don't get what is going on. I don't always want to paint several layers just to cover the white spots of the paper. One paper this happened on was Saunders Waterford (on both sides), which gets a little painful looking at the price tag. Have you got any idea what's causing this? Thanks so much.
Hi Rebekka - From my experience, what's happening could be one of two things: First, it could be a flaw in the paper. Sometimes paper batches can have sizing or other process issues and result in splotchy areas that resist the paint. I've had this happen with professional papers as well, although rarely. Sometimes it can also take the form of extreme warping when wet. In either case, I would suggest contacting the paper manufacturer if you think this could be the problem. Even better, if you have the product sticker you can tell them the batch number (they will tell you where to look for that information). A few years ago I had an issue with an Arches batch. I contacted them, sent photos of the issue, and had the batch information. They replaced all of the paper I had purchased - very helpful. The other possibility is handling clean paper with unwashed hands. It doesn't sound like this is what the problem is to me, but the natural oils in our skin can transfer onto the paper and create a natural resist spot. These spots, however, aren't usually widespread. It would show up as an occasional spot or spots. To me, it sounds like a manufacturing issue, so I would suggest contacting the paper company. It can be extremely frustrating when this happens.
Hi celso moreira - I don’t have any personal experience with this brand, but from researching ShinHan it appears to be a Korean brand and the reviews are mixed. It does seem better than the prior brand you asked about, however. They have three product levels: PWC - which is their top line of watercolor paint. PROFESSIONAL - which is a little deceiving as it sounds like it’s actually a student-grade paint SHAMI - which would be the academy or hobby line. If you go to this page on their website (www.shinhanart.com/eng/product/product_water.php) and read through their bullet points, you’ll better see that the PWC line is the one to go for - highest grade gum arabic and the purest pigments with the highest level of lightfastness. They list all of the key words you should look for. Reviews are a little confusing because you don’t always know what line the person is referring to, but the PWC line generally gets pretty good reviews - definitely as safe one to try. The "professional" line pigments may be more dependent on which colors you chose, but even if you pick safe pigments they outwardly mention using a less impressive gum arabic than the PWC line and that could effect your results. If it were me I'd avoid the lower two grades in this brand. Here are some fairly helpful reviews that I found: Review by Peter Ward watercolourfanatic.blogspot.com/2013/06/korean-watercolour-paints.html From a blog by Liron Yanconsky lironyan.com/shinhan-pwc-watercolor-review-first-impression/
I have some Shinhan PWC paints. I quite like them. they quality is good and they perform well. My only complaint is with the hues. They don't look anything like the cobalts and cadmiums they are designed to replace
I started my watercolor journey with Canson and Cotman paints and nearly gave it up. A friend gave me a sheet of Arches and it changed my outlook instantly. I say the paper is the most important factor in watercolor painting. You can't go cheap with paper.
Absolutely. People don't realize what an impact the paper quality can make in particular. I'm glad you added your comment.
Raymond Mosier does the arches paper need to be stretched first before you paint on it?
@@JillPoyerdFineArt do you have a preference between Saunders Waterford and Arches?
@@Drumaier I'm so sorry for the delay in responding, Drumaier. The message got a little lost. I had a bad batch of paper from Waterford many years ago that ruined two paintings, so after that I used Arches almost exclusively. That said, Arches quality hasn't been quite what it used to be. I recent tried and fell in love with Winsor & Newton 300lb cold pressed watercolor paper. It stays incredibly flat and takes the paint beautifully. That would be my recommended paper at this time, with Arches in second.
Jill Poyerd Fine Art thank you for commenting this recently! It helped me think my next paper purchase
Your 'quality of...' videos and instructions are excellent, fabulous, and very helpful!
Thank you very much, Jill!
You're very welcome, Peter - So glad you found them helpful!
Am I the only one who thinks hard edges on watercolor is beautiful? It's the kind of effect that can be achieved only by watercolor and I really love seeing it in a painting.
You're not alone - I love it too. It's especially nice when contrasted with the look of pigment flow.
I never considered this, I just assumed that it was the paint quality. Thank you for this informative video.
@@xboxswitch9457 ya back then I was. educating yourself isn't a crime. Stop being hypocritical💕
Leo Oel you are pathetic
Being new to watercolor and still learning, this is truly one of the most helpful useful videos I’ve ever watched. It reiterated my happiness in choosing to purchase only high end professional quality paper and paints to use as I learn more. I purchased quality paper and quality paint in the beginning tho it wasn’t professional And I became so frustrated that I quit for a while thinking I simply couldn’t “do” watercolor. When I started back I bought the highest quality paper I could get and use only that as I learn which has alone made me actually enjoy learning watercolor Tho I’m
Still trying to find the best quality paint that I like, I’m enjoying that process so much thanks to great channels and videos like this one. So thank you!
That's wonderful to hear, Kim (that you selected quality products from the start). I actually did the same when I was learning, and am so glad I did as well. It's amazing what a difference it makes. I'm very glad my videos have been helpful to you.
And I agree with everyone with the quality of your voice it is easy to take in the info no distractions
Thank you, Lisa, and I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I figured it would help for viewers to actually see it for themselves...
Your comparison is very thorough and fair, unlike many youtubers who seem to do more advertising or biases than truth. Your video quality is great too with only useful clips, removing fast forwarding unnecessary waitings. Oh, and your calming voice! Thank you so much.
Thank you for the compliments. I'm so glad you enjoyed it, Hai. For the most part, I like to allow the viewers to make their decisions based on what they see/observe.
best video ever about watercolor paper: not opinions but scientific test that you can reproduce
Thank you. I do try to approach my evaluations in a more scientific manner.
this is the most exhaustive paper testing I could find on youtube. Thanks a lot.
You're very welcome
I enjoyed the professional paper comparison too. Thanks
I found that even low quality paper (even worst than what you used) can create interesting effects but needs some learning.
I noted is that with expensive paper I tend to be more careful, cheap paper encourage to draw, paint and test with less constraints, it can surprise you.
I think professional paper is better to learn bcz is easier to correct mistakes. I consider academic and student grade a world in between not always easy or fun to paint, with some skill it can be good, i made and exhibition were there were 8 paintings in hotpress cheap paper without cotton, acid free, some of the landscapes were sold, the first work with this paper was very bad, I was surprised by the results of the second one and I realised that in some cases you have to learn how to use it, never expecting to work like a professional one. Thanks again for your wonderful video work.
Interesting observations, Bruno. And a good point about caution with better paper, ease with lesser.
I knew a lot of this, but I did learn a thing or two. It's never a waste of time to go over the basics. Thank you!
You're welcome, Joy. Yes, it's amazing the little things we can pick up here and there when it comes to the basics.
Wow, what timing. I was just asking someone about just this subject, about how important professional vs student grade is. I'm just learning watercolor so but student grade everything and was wondering why I just can't get certain effects to work right. Now I know. I thank you, my bank account? , not so happy 😊
lol - I am sorry about your bank account, Elizabeth. I know paper in particular can be painful to invest in, but it is sooo worth it in the end. I'm really glad the upgrade solved your problem with achieving certain effects. That's exactly why I made this! : )
Yes, there’s a huge difference between Arches and other low grade watercolor paper. I started with student grade bec it’s affordable. Now that I have been painting more and getting serious on learning watercolor painting, I started to move to a higher quality paper and I get better results. One instructor states, “if you want to learn watercolor it’s better to use the right tools by using professional grade or you will not get the same result. ‘’ That is very true. However, one thing I also have learned, each professional grade paper acts differently. But Arches, so far, is my favorite. Thank you for this demonstration. I watched a few of your classes in Skillshare. Can you show how to paint a landscape, flower or anything in Skillshare? You are a very talented artist.
I'm so glad you benefitted from the video. I'm also glad you were able to make your way to higher grade materials. One reason I made this video is that sometimes people give up on watercolor not realizing their materials are what is making success so difficult. You're right about the papers, too. I have two other videos that demonstrate how the different professional brands respond to paint and there is sometimes a huge difference!
I'm glad you also like my classes on Skillshare. You know, I purposely avoided creating classes that demonstrate how to paint specific items/features because there are already so many very good classes like that and I wanted to comprehensively teach students how to actually paint. That said, at the end of my Mastering Brushstrokes II class I do demonstrate a watercolor and an oil landscape. You may enjoy that! I will keep your request in mind, however. My classes on painting basics is almost complete...
Great advice...this will really help a beginner like me from wondering why watercolour techniques don't turn out as expected. It can be discouraging and time consuming to work these things out by yourself. Thank you
Lorna, that is one of the main reasons I made that video. I really wanted to help relatively new artists save time and frustration by making sure their materials were of good quality. One can so easily get discouraged when in reality it may not be you as much as your products.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt well you helped me tbh so it worked!! Thank you for your videos, I've recently invested in watercolor materials and I have to say you've helped me a lot :D
What an eye opener for someone like myself who is a beginner. I will use the student paper for lessons and the Arches 100 cotton paper for my finished Art Work. I thought that as a beginner using Student paper would be fine, so now I have quite a bit of Canson paper to use up!
Student paper is also quite useful for testing colors, I find.
This is one of the most relaxing & informative videos I've seen. Thanks much!
You're very welcome, Clare - so glad you enjoyed it.
Thx a lot for your clear instructions! The information is very useful for me to explore the interesting world of watercolour🙏
I'm glad it was helpful!
@@JillPoyerdFineArt 🙏🍀🙏
What a great video. I've watched many paper comparisons but yours is superb. The angled shots where you showed us how much water remained on the paper, and how much it buckled, is extremely instructive. I'm about to watch it again and test along with you!
That's great, Jenn! I hope you enjoy your testing experience. It's a great way to get to know your paper.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt I am embarrassed at how many times I have watched these videos. I'm doing my third round of paper testing now, and I created a spreadsheet to take notes on each paper. Each time I perform tests, I come back to your videos, and catch new things each time. After my tests today, I will have tested 42 different papers (16 different brands, in different finishes, weights and colors). I was able to get some sample packs from Jackson's and Cheap Joe's, so that made it easier and less expensive to try out all these papers. Most of my results agree with yours, with a few exceptions, which may be due to manufacturing inconsistencies. Thank you again for these exceptionally helpful videos!
@@jennw6809 No need to apologize, Jenn! I'm glad it's been inspiring to you. It's amazing how helpful it is to stop and actually examine our papers, isn't it? We often don't think about doing the drudge work, but it really pays off.
Wow, this is great! I'd never given much thought to paper quality, I guess because I didn't know what to look for. This clearly demonstrates the performance difference you talk about. Thank you.
I"m glad you found it helpful, Rick. Yes, it's amazing what a difference paper quality can make.
Thank you very much for your patient consise and elegant videos. As a new artist I don't know what I don't know.
You're very welcome. I'm very glad it was helpful.
Wow, what a great comparison in both paper and paint quality. I am just getting started with watercolor as I normally paint in oil. I did purchase the canson watercolor paper pad, but after watching this video, I think I'll be taking it back and purchasing some Arches paper. What a difference the paper and paint make! Thank you for sharing this video with us!
I'm so glad you saw this in time to make the exchange. The paper is so very important, especially for someone who is truly trying to learn. I'm very glad I could help.
I love the clarity here. I am working with watercolor pencils and just plain colored pencils. I’m using Polychromos and Albrecht Durer. I was having frustrating results with Strathmore and Fabriano Studio. So much so, I ordered CD Supracolors-thinking that would be better-which I’m sure it will. In my supplies I found a small sample sheet of Legion/Stonehenge Aqua Coldpress 300 lb...it’s all old and dirty. But I tried the AD magenta on it-WOW! Beautiful results! Fortunately there’s an art supply 30-miles away, I got a block of 300 lb Arches coldpress. Now I’m nervous to open and use it. I think I need to check out your classes! I’ve taken oil painting and drawing classes, but colored pencils/watersoluble pencils are new to me. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad you're getting better results, Rachel. This is one of the reasons I made this video (and the one on paints). I knew there were artists out there feeling very frustrated and not yet realizing some of it could be related to their products. I cringe when I'm in an art or craft store and I see people excited purchasing the super low quality materials. If they only knew. I do teach watercolor classes online...not colored pencil, but I'm sure they have wonderful instructors for that medium as well if you decide to look into it.
Very good and informative video. The test you didn't do, and the one I would be very interested in, is lifting out color.
That's a great point, Tom. Someone else mentioned blending colors. Both would have been very good additions and something to keep in mind for future videos like this.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt upload please.
I love her voice it's so relaxing. 💕
This has helped me a lot. I have been wondering what I have been doing wrong after buying some higher quality watercolor paint. I never realized how much the paper mattered passed the cold press and 140 ib.
I'm so glad it helped you, Rachel. Yes, it's really incredible how it can impact your work. I was really anxious to try to help others realize this and hopefully save some grief.
I totally agree about the paper and how much of an impact that can have. I would picture students giving up on watercolor out of frustration not knowing that was the fault of the materials - specifically (usually) the paper. I learned this hard lesson long long ago when purchasing student paper for my niece and then showing her some techniques. Um...no, I couldn't because the paper (and in this case the paint as well) were so bad. That was a flash point for me, and since then have wanted to help people realize the difference and have a better experience.
I haven't covered brushes because I personally think they have the least impact of the three primary materials (brushes, paper, paint). A kolinsky sable is luscious and is certainly a favorite of mine, but great art can still be created with lesser synthetics. In fact, one of my favorite brushes (a rigger) is a $2 synthetic from a craft store. I like it better than my $16 sable rigger. But...as I said...a high quality round in particular is very, very nice to work with. Sables are softer (as are most other natural hair bristles) and sometimes I actually prefer their floppier nature. But it all depends on the manufacturer, material, etc.
Very but very concise video. Thank you very much!
Thanks a lot for share the knoeledge.
I'm glad it was helpful, Elson.
Hello! Thank you very much for your attention. I am clearer and I will continue to listen to your suggestions. Greetings from Porto - Portugal.
I'm happy I could help
Great demo! Your voice over is very calming.
Thank you, Dave
Please record more such amazing tests. For example for gouache. Thank you
Perhaps that is something I can do in the future. If only I could double my available work time! lol
This is the most helpful and knowledgeable comparison! Thanks so much!
I'm so glad you enjoyed it, Joy
I had no idea. Thank you.
You are Great as always Jill, thank you very much
Very kind...Glad you enjoyed it, alyda art
Instead of taking various professional TH-camrs' suggestions of what watercolor paper to use now, I can make an educated judgment to go everything professional. U get what you pay for as they say. Thank you
Thanks just what I was looking for
Wow I knew the quality of paper differs but to see the consequenses on painting technics is amazing
This was very helpful, I've been doing paintings on Academy grade paper (Artist Loft) so I might try Arches next time and see what I can do!
I'm so glad these videos have been helpful for you, Christopher. I think you'll be quite surprised when you try Arches (or another professional brand). The difference can be amazing.
Thank you very much, for sharing this technical but easy to understand demonstration and additional information.
You're very welcome, willie
Wow! I am VERY impressed in the production quality of this video. Great close up videography!
THANKS.
I learned a lot, too!
You're very welcome, Chris. I always feel the closeup shots are so beneficial for viewers.
Thank you for this great practical information!
really great demo! Thx a lot for sharing
Glad you liked it, Vlad
Good info, thanks. I'd like to add my personal real world experience, specifically NON-differences.
1. I switched from Arches to Fabriano paper, to save 1/3+ the cost. I cannot tell the difference in performance.
2. I prefer the experience of painting on 300# to 140#. But I see no difference in the final results. I suppose if you work VERY wet, the 300# would perform better. For me personally it is not worth the significant extra cost.
3. I experience no difference between the two sides of Arches and Fabriano sheets. I detect no difference in results.
Your mileage may vary. Your expectations and requirements will vary. There is no downside to spending more money. Except the money.
Thank you for offering your input, Ichiro. I, too, have used both Arches and Fabriano and do notice a difference, but of course everyone is individual. It may also depend on the specific paper - I like Fabriano hot pressed paper, but not their cold pressed so much. The cold pressed texture design didn’t please me for one thing.
Regarding the 300lb, yes, it’s mostly the fact that you have a sturdier surface that is less likely to warp, but having more physical paper (thicker paper) also means more cotton to absorb the paint. It’s slightly different but as you said, mainly when working very wet. I think it also takes scrubbing a little better as well. Just a little.
As for the two sides, there are times I didn't notice much difference, but there have been other times when I started a piece on the reverse side to save money (I don’t do that anymore) and had to abandon the piece as it didn’t take the paint the same. This could also be related to brand, perhaps, but it’s good to be aware of. There is an official "front side" with many brands.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt I forgot to mention that I work on rough press, on which small differences may be obscured or otherwise less important. And thanks for more good info.
@@ichirofakename Ahh, yes. That can certainly make a difference.
Which Fabriano, they make several different kinds...?
@@waymire01 Full sheets (22"x30") of Fabriano Artistico Traditiional White Watercolor Paper - Rough Grain.
Just what I wanted to know, very clear and concise, thanks
You're very welcome, Brian. Glad it was helpful.
Extraordinary analysis and lucid presentation of comparison. This is a very very helpful video for students. Thanks a lot for Your effort and kind heart to put the great effort.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it, Muralidhar. I really enjoy producing them and knowing how viewers benefit.
i currently use canson paper and cotman newton student grade watercolors.
honestly, the paper made a big difference bc i began using normal “drawing paper” for the canson brand, which supported alcohol based markers but went through.
Yes, it's amazing how much paper choice an influence the work. Absolutely.
Thanks. Always look forward to a new video popping up.
But going by the quality of paper test. You did do a great review. Thanks
Very complete video, I'm totally recommending your channel
Thank you so much, Cristian
Please cual es mejor para profesionales, fabriano o arches. Tb cual es el mejor para acuarela :arches prensado en frio o caliente. Muchas gracias
Ambas marcas son muy buenas. Solía usar Arches porque prefería la textura del papel, un patrón menos predecible. Pero ... ahora prefiero el papel Winsor & Newton, y el prensado en frío es prácticamente el estándar de la industria. Es el más fácil de trabajar y más versátil. El papel de W&N ha sido fantástico y Arches ahora es mi segunda opción. Espero que sea útil.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt muchas gracias
With high grade 100% (what I used to call rag paper because that's what its made from) an artist can and I often do paint on both sides.
I find more tooth/texture on the reverse side of the watermark. But it's negligible so an artist can feel comfortable painting on both sides with no difference.
I think anyone starting out in W/C should watch this video.
Thanks so much for your videos. I think I've seen most.
Thank you Dan. You know I used to paint on the reverse side but I will say that I notice a slight difference and sometimes small flaws in how it takes the paint. But that could be a matter of brand as well.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt Thx for your reply. I wonder if it's that I buy sheets and not pads? Oh well, could just be my old eyes.
Great review. You deserve more subscribers. This is ACTUALLY helpful. Thanks!👍
I'm so glad, Richie. Thank you - That's appreciated
I've recently purchased Arches (waiting for shipment ) 140lb and I'm looking forward to seeing the difference. As a newbie to the art of watercolor I was getting so frustrated with simple wet on wet results, but I'm not giving up!
Absolutely, don't give up! I do think you'll see a difference. If you think of it, do let me know your experience when you try it.
Hola, sobre lo que mencionas en este video del encolado interno y externo donde puedo encontrar más información específicamente para papel de acuarela. Saludos y excelente vídeo
Pepe Negrete normalmente en la página web del fabricante (Arches, Canson, Fabriano...) puedes encontrar esa información.
thank you, very helpful
Very informative! Thank you for this.
Glad you enjoyed it
That was an amazing video. Thank you. Perfect examples.
You're very welcome, Michael.
This is a super informative video. Thank you :)
You're very welcome!
I am a fine arts student....this was helpful.Thanks.
I've very glad it was helpful, Miftahul.
I use Strathmore 500 cotton paper, it's amazing and I'll never go back to wood pulp. But I'll never use arches since they use rabbit glue for the sizing
Yes, it's amazing the difference it makes, isn't it? Arches isn't quite what it used to be anyway. There are certainly other options. I review several professional watercolor papers in a separate video, in case you're interested: th-cam.com/video/DZhswCAM32Q/w-d-xo.html
Very informative! Exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks for the video!
You're very welcome, Olga - glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks!
Would you do the same comparing hot and cold press?
Well, I'll write it on my list of future ideas. They do perform differently and might be helpful for viewers.
Thank you So much jill!! I'll be following right away!!
You're so welcome - very glad you're enjoying them!
excellent video 👍🏻
Hi Jill, this video brought me to your channel. I've watched some of your videos now and also joined your Udemy classes. Thank you very much for such professional content both here and on Udemy. It's a joy to learn from you.
You're very welcome! I'm so pleased to know how much you enjoy my work. It's a pleasure for me to be able to help people learn.
Very nice to watch. The every 1st thing I leaned before I started painting in watercolor, if to always use artist grade papers. Its the most important. However I would have loved to have seen a comparison with artist grade papers against other artist grade paper since I would never use student/academy grade papers anyway. I am looking for something to replace my Arches because the quality has declined dramatically since 2009.
It's wonderful that you learned to select high quality paper as a new painting. That's so often not the case. You got off to a good start. I actually plan to do a comparison of artist grade papers at some point. I, too, am an Arches user and would like to see what else would compare or even surpass. I've heard good things about Winsor and Newton Artist paper....Might be something to look into, although I can't recommend it personally yet.
i started with strathmore 400 series watercolor paper and koi sakura watercolor set... i almost gave up on my watercoloring hobby...
i soon switched to aquabee watercolor paper and winsor and newton cotman set of 45... it was a much better experience...
i can't find the same brand of bee watercolor paper and so i am considering arches watercolor paper... i hope it will do me much better...
Arches should work very nicely for you, although I have to say that my new personal favorite is Winsor & Newton cold pressed paper. Either should work nicely for you. And, yes, I've heard good things about a specific version of Bee paper. I can't recall which one, but you may find it in the comments below. I'm sorry you can't seem to find it now.
Exactly what I need to see! Thanks a lot !!!!!!!
You're very welcome, Soki. And I hope you enjoy your new paper brand. I've been recently working on Winsor & Newton cold pressed paper and love it. An additional option perhaps.
I buy Canson because I heard it was really good and had a decent price, but always thought the way it performed was my fault and that I didn't know how to use watercolors. Now I know and I'm switching to Arches as son as I can, but do you profesionals out there think Winsor & Newton paint is good enought for Arches?
Absolutely. That is actually what many of my paints are, as long as it's the professional grade Winsor & Newton paint - not Cotman. BTW - Winsor & Newton makes a really nice watercolor paper as well. It's becoming my favorite, actually.
Wonderful accurate video. Thank you
I'm glad you enjoyed it, Pippa!
Very well done . TYVM
I've been so frustrated with Cotman (student grade paint) and student grade paper. I think I may upgrade to some arches paper to see how the Cotman performs- fantastic video and eye opening. May explain why I can't paint like the tutors.
It absolutely could be the reason for your frustration. I think you'll find a pretty significant difference when you try Arches.
Hi, I just bought a watercolor block called L’Aquarelle Canson Heritage. It’s 140 lb, 100%cotton, acid free, with a rough grain. It was a bit over $2.00 a sheet. I had read that Arches and Canson had merged or one bought the other out...? Dunno...maybe I ought to return it. What’s your take on this paper? Great video by the way. Very informative.
Hi Elizabeth - I looked up the brand and it seems to be a very nice paper to try. I usually avoid anything by Canson, but this particular product reads very well and is their top line. It lists as 100% cotton and is supposed to be very white without the use of brighteners. Nice. It sounds like they use synthetic sizing, but based on the reviews I've read it must be a good quality. I would try it, personally. I didn't really get too many red flags on it.
Here's a very, very detailed review of the brand:
www.desireherman.com/2017/04/canson-heritage-the-arches-killer.html
Yes, Arches had been bought out by Canson but apparently they're now owned by AHLSTROM-MUNKSJÖ. Whether that's good or bad, I can't say at this point. I've used Arches for a long time, and I swear I noticed a lessening in quality when Canson bought them out - I had serious issues with a few batches of paper. But recently the paper has been quite good. Perhaps the new ownership?? I'm not sure. But the Canson Heritage paper does seem worth a try. I hope all of this helps!
Yes, I actually plan to try the Heritage line at some point in order to compare it to Arches (my go-to brand). Hopefully, most people will realize I was referring specifically to Canson's student grade paper.
Another interesting paper is the new Winsor & Newton 100% coton. I have been using Arches for many years, and right now I think W&N may be best, at lest for wet on wet. It allows me more control, and it keeps the humidity for two hours.
Interesting! If I can ever find the time, I really want to do a video like this one but comparing the professional brands (another person had mentioned this idea and I love it). I'll make sure W&N paper is on my list.
Wow, that's really good to know about the lack of buckle and about the fibers, Weedus. I'm anxious to try out that paper. I've always been very pleased with other W&N products. Have you tried their loose paper sheets as well by any chance?
This is such a helpful video! Thank you.
You're welcome, Anne
El mejor video que e visto, muchas gracias por compartir esta información
De nada, head artist
wow that was very helpful and clear. thanks! subbed!
So glad you enjoyed it, Yanca!
A very nice review! I'd love to see a similar one comparing only quality paper.
You're in luck! I actually recently ordered the paper for just such a comparison. I'm going to work on comparing seven professional brands of watercolor paper in the next 2 months or so.
@@JillPoyerdFineArt perfect! Looking forward to it!
Hello, i just want to say thank you for making and sharing this video! this is a very helpful video and the way you explained it is very easy to understand. You deserve more recognition, i feel like this video is very underrated. Very informative! You just gained 1 subscriber :)
Thank you so much, Che - That means so much. Glad to have you as a subscriber!
8:54 , mitosis , is that you !!???
awesome lesson i
Glad you enjoyed it, Luis
Well done! Thank you👍
You're very welcome, Bonnie.
Excellent video!! 👌 Now, i wonder if is any good paper to fill the massive gap between student and mega professional (arches)? I've heard that that the fabriano rosaspina with 60% cotton could be a good option but they are sold as big papers rather than blocks. Any idea's about a paper that is not as expensive, pseudo profesional ?? Thank you all.
Well, this is a very good topic. I actually answered a similar question a while back. I'm just going to paste it here because I think you'll find it helpful. I hope so anyway.
Q - I have a question what is your take on the quality from some of the new paper companies offering professional grade 100% cotton paper; Such as Bee Paper Company and Stonehenge Aquarelle? I have looked at both offerings and have gone with Bee Paper personally (because they offer 100% cotton Aquarelle sketchbooks.) The cost for a package of fifty 6"x9" sheets is about $0.2928/ sheet is quite reasonable, and allows my teenage artist daughter access to cotton paper that would be well out of our budget otherwise. Could this be the advent of quality student grade papers? I will try to emulate your tests on it, but my limited experience with it so far is that it preformed extremely noticably better than the Canson XL paper I had been using, and a great deal better than the Strathmore 300 & 400 series my daughter was using.
A - Well, I think you're on to something with these papers, Jacqulyyn. Yes, they're both 100% cotton, which right off the bat should make them perform better with water media. They both get good reviews. From reading up on them, it sounds like the Aquabee might have a little extra external sizing as a few people mentioned flow issues and that the paint remains active for quite a while. This is personal preference. You can always soak your paper first (and let it dry) if you want less surface sizing. You do have to be careful that you get the right product, though, because they have a lesser paper by a similar name - Bee Paper Watercolor Art Journal - that's only 25% cotton. The Stonehenge paper get about equal reviews from what I can tell. The main issue I read about with that one is the tendency for the paper to tear when removing masking fluid or tape. Perhaps if you like your paper taped down, go with their paper blocks rather than pads or sheets (blocks are already secured with glue). They also reported that is has lighter texture - another personal preference. I'm glad you told me about them. I may have to see about getting samples to try them. Might end up being a good paper for students.
Brilliant, thanks a lot!
really great comparison, so visual.
Could you do one of these on pastel papers, and especially Conte which paper is best for them. I love using Conte, but have yet to find the best paper.
That's a great idea, but unfortunately I don't work with pastels. That said...you never know. I have a friend who is a professional pastel artist. Maybe she'll join me in the effort some day.
Jill Poyerd Fine Art That would bw good.
Jill Poyerd Fine Art do you have a difficult time saying NO! ??
This is very Good information.Thanks. I also enrolled in some of your Udemy classes.
Thank you, Astron. Glad you enjoyed it! If you liked this, I think you'll enjoy my classes as well. Happy to have you as a student!
Could you please make a video where you use only student grade art supplies for watercolors? For instance, use Winsor & Newton Conman watercolors, Canson watercolor paper and Raphael watercolor brushes (I don't know if Raphael brushes are student grade or not, but it's what I use because they're fairly well priced and work well)
Another good topic for my list. That could be pretty extensive, but might be interesting.
This is so asmr ♥️ by the way, I liked the results in the academy paper
The unusual effects you get with different papers could truly be used creatively couldn't they?
@@JillPoyerdFineArt Yes! i was thinking more about the style i would like to achieve. I'm not that of a perfectionist, so the academy paper style works perfect for me
@@Zavob You're very welcome
I just found your channel and your instruction and knowledge are amazing. I have a question what is your take on the quality from some of the new paper companies offering professional grade 100% cotton paper; Such as Bee Paper Company and Stonehenge Aquarelle? I have looked at both offerings and have gone with Bee Paper personally (because they offer 100% cotton Aquarelle sketchbooks.) The cost for a package of fifty 6"x9" sheets is about $0.2928/ sheet is quite reasonable, and allows my teenage artist daughter access to cotton paper that would be well out of our budget otherwise. Could this be the advent of quality student grade papers? I will try to emulate your tests on it, but my limited experience with it so far is that it preformed extremely noticably better than the Canson XL paper I had been using, and a great deal better than the Strathmore 300 & 400 series my daughter was using.
Hi Jacqulyyn - Let me check on those papers and get back to you. I'm a little tied up right now but am anxious to check them out. Be in touch soon....
@@JillPoyerdFineArt oh thank you, I honored that you took the time to answer me. Honestly no rush, whenever you have time; I was just curious. Again, thanks so much for taking the time to read and respond to my comment.
@@jacqulyynw Well, I think you're on to something with these papers, Jacqulyyn. Yes, they're both 100% cotton, which right off the bat should make them perform better with water media. They both get good reviews. From reading up on them, it sounds like the Aquabee might have a little extra external sizing as a few people mentioned flow issues and that the paint remains active for quite a while. This is personal preference. You can always soak your paper first (and let it dry) if you want less surface sizing. You do have to be careful that you get the right product, though, because they have a lesser paper by a similar name - Bee Paper Watercolor Art Journal - that's only 25% cotton. The Stonehenge paper get about equal reviews from what I can tell. The main issue I read about with that one is the tendency for the paper to tear when removing masking fluid or tape. Perhaps if you like your paper taped down, go with their paper blocks rather than pads or sheets (blocks are already secured with glue). They also reported that is has lighter texture - another personal preference. I'm glad you told me about them. I may have to see about getting samples to try them. Might end up being a good paper for students. Was this helpful?
Thank you for sharing this great testings, may I know how do you store your watercolor paper to avoid the expiration which looks like - a translucent look (almost see-through?
Sure, Willie. I stack my watercolor paper on flat large shelves in a dry closet. Finished paintings are stored (if they're not framed) in archival clear bags and then stacked on the same closet shelves. I haven't experienced the paper becoming translucent. I'm wondering what brand/paper you're using? Is it rice paper? I could see that possibly being the case.
This is required watching 👍🏼
Thank you, geckonia
It’s pretty amazing how easy it is to avoid headaches paper-wise by choosing 100 % cotton paper over cellulose paper. Sketchbooks/journals however, don’t seem to come with a 100 % cotton paper option, or do they? .
Yes, it seems that many journals are not 100% cotton, but good ones are out there. You can usually find pure cotton journals at an art supply store. (I also often wonder why so many painting journals have such thin paper as well.)
Mr. S. There‘s a Strathmore Mixed Media Journal that is 100% cotton!
The impact of quality is completely true. I've been painting on Arches 140 professionally more than 25 years. It's the one worldwide accepted BEST paper ever made. The arches pads of 140 are more rough than the sheets so I only use it in a bind. I make all my students get Arches. I've been teaching 15 years. We all use it. Avoid student grade brands. As far as strathmore pads with the brown or yellow covers, avoid them like a tumor.....
Thank you for your input, Mystery Painter. Very valuable - especially knowing your background. I'm always pleased to hear that fellow instructors are guiding their students in this way...so important.
Right now I'm using Fabriano watercolour paper (Torchon extra rough) which is 140 lbs and 25% cotton. I don't think I have ever tried a 100% cotton paper before
You may actually like it, Luna. Hopefully, you can give it a try sometime. It's more archival as well.
Hello! Very interesting and enlightening your video, but I have a question, what do you think about the Chinese watercolors "marie's", do you know? Many thanks and best regards
I hadn't actually heard of them, celso, so I did a little research online. It seems that most people agree they are student grade and that the quality isn't quite up to par. I've never worked with them myself, so I can't validate that, but I did read one review in particular that greatly concerned me: "Some of my students in the past have brought these to class. They are very low quality. For the heck of it, we did test strips and put them in the window. They faded to almost nothing in a matter of weeks." If that's true (and some of the other reviews lead me to think it may be), I'd avoid using them. Wouldn't it be awful if you did a wonderful painting only to find that it faded in a short time (low quality pigments don't hold up well)? I also read some feedback regarding the actual performance of the pigment that didn't sound encouraging. I hope that's helpful. Again, i'm only going by the majority opinion from what I read.
What did Turner use?
Yes, I saw your note in the other paper video where I just responded. Basically, let me check into this in the morning and get back to you...
Very informative!
Does soaking and stretching the student grade paper help minimize the sizing issue?
Well, I would say yes and no. Yes, it would lessen the amount of sizing which could benefit those papers that are a little over-sized. I would say no if that paper is constructed so poorly that the sizing washes off unevenly. But generally, I would think a gentle soak might help.
Jill Poyerd Fine Art Good to know! That helps a lot with the oversized Canton paper that I use a lot. Thank you!
This was super helpful, thank you.
Have you ever experienced small white dots appearing on your paper after the paint has dried? This is happening on professional paper with professional paint, but not on every paper I use. I just don't get what is going on. I don't always want to paint several layers just to cover the white spots of the paper. One paper this happened on was Saunders Waterford (on both sides), which gets a little painful looking at the price tag. Have you got any idea what's causing this? Thanks so much.
Hi Rebekka - From my experience, what's happening could be one of two things: First, it could be a flaw in the paper. Sometimes paper batches can have sizing or other process issues and result in splotchy areas that resist the paint. I've had this happen with professional papers as well, although rarely. Sometimes it can also take the form of extreme warping when wet. In either case, I would suggest contacting the paper manufacturer if you think this could be the problem. Even better, if you have the product sticker you can tell them the batch number (they will tell you where to look for that information). A few years ago I had an issue with an Arches batch. I contacted them, sent photos of the issue, and had the batch information. They replaced all of the paper I had purchased - very helpful.
The other possibility is handling clean paper with unwashed hands. It doesn't sound like this is what the problem is to me, but the natural oils in our skin can transfer onto the paper and create a natural resist spot. These spots, however, aren't usually widespread. It would show up as an occasional spot or spots.
To me, it sounds like a manufacturing issue, so I would suggest contacting the paper company. It can be extremely frustrating when this happens.
Hello again. I would like to know, if possible, your opinion about watercolors of the "Shinhan" brand. greetings
Certainly, celso. Give me a few days and I'll get back to you on this...
Hi celso moreira - I don’t have any personal experience with this brand, but from researching ShinHan it appears to be a Korean brand and the reviews are mixed. It does seem better than the prior brand you asked about, however.
They have three product levels:
PWC - which is their top line of watercolor paint.
PROFESSIONAL - which is a little deceiving as it sounds like it’s actually a student-grade paint
SHAMI - which would be the academy or hobby line.
If you go to this page on their website (www.shinhanart.com/eng/product/product_water.php) and read through their bullet points, you’ll better see that the PWC line is the one to go for - highest grade gum arabic and the purest pigments with the highest level of lightfastness. They list all of the key words you should look for.
Reviews are a little confusing because you don’t always know what line the person is referring to, but the PWC line generally gets pretty good reviews - definitely as safe one to try. The "professional" line pigments may be more dependent on which colors you chose, but even if you pick safe pigments they outwardly mention using a less impressive gum arabic than the PWC line and that could effect your results. If it were me I'd avoid the lower two grades in this brand.
Here are some fairly helpful reviews that I found:
Review by Peter Ward
watercolourfanatic.blogspot.com/2013/06/korean-watercolour-paints.html
From a blog by Liron Yanconsky
lironyan.com/shinhan-pwc-watercolor-review-first-impression/
Thank you very much for your attention. I was much more enlightened, Regards
You're very welcome
I have some Shinhan PWC paints. I quite like them. they quality is good and they perform well. My only complaint is with the hues. They don't look anything like the cobalts and cadmiums they are designed to replace