Fashion Critics Reviews Spring 2021 Haute Couture (Dior, Iris Van Herpen, & Schiaparelli)

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
  • The second Haute Couture season during the Covid-19 pandemic is here and we have a lot to discuss! This is only the 1st of a 3 part series this week, so stay tuned! We first discuss Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli and his take on trying to redefine Couture. From references to Elsa Schiaparelli herself & Yves Saint Laurent, there was a lot to discuss! Iris Van Herpen returned to present a full collection after a semi-season off. Her "Roots of Rebirth" collection focused on fungi as the inspiration but reinforced classics in a smart yet reassuring way. And of course, Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior, which took on Christian Dior's love of tarot cards. The Visconti-Sforza deck from the 15th century was this season's inspiration, which allowed Maria Grazia to dig into her Italian roots, and well I don't mind it too much.
    The shows:
    Schiaparelli - • SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COU...
    Iris Van Herpen - • Iris van Herpen ~ Root...
    Christian Dior - • Video
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    Video Edited by:
    Rachel Fritz: / rachelfritz

ความคิดเห็น • 797

  • @Bokang267
    @Bokang267 3 ปีที่แล้ว +478

    Totally agree with you on the choices made by Schiaparelli to pair the more masculine styles with black models. I thought "maybe I am too critical" but you are right they need to look into whether their (un)conscious bias came into play with their decision making.

    • @MiNi-ke5yi
      @MiNi-ke5yi 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      I agree with you but it’s sub-conscious 😉 otherwise everyone would be doing things whilst flat out unconscious 🤪

  • @misscameroun237
    @misscameroun237 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1745

    I really liked how you incorporated your critique of black women bodies who were (and are) subjected to masculinization, as a way to exclude them from feminity. Great review.

    • @alejochamorro4948
      @alejochamorro4948 3 ปีที่แล้ว +130

      I think that the intention in the ‘masculine’ designs were rather to represent strength from the Black Lives Matter movement, yet I can’t deny they look rather androgynous and masculine, the approach was questionable. I also found weird how the white model was not only represented in a femenina way, but also very modest and almost religious, always in white, like a modern day virgin

    • @PinkRedBrisk
      @PinkRedBrisk 3 ปีที่แล้ว +44

      @Dexy Nash there is no reason for you to be a ass.

    • @misscameroun237
      @misscameroun237 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

      @@alejochamorro4948 oh it may be that, but I am wondering if the association « masculine - strength » isn’t questionable in itself then. The pink dress was really interesting to me though.

    • @DevonRd311
      @DevonRd311 3 ปีที่แล้ว +40

      I agree! You are so thoughtful and intelligent about your reviews, integrating not only little known fashion history but also subtle cultural points, as a black woman I was so pleasantly surprised that you picked up on something that I felt only black women would recognize. Bravo for so many reasons!

    • @DevonRd311
      @DevonRd311 3 ปีที่แล้ว +56

      @@alejochamorro4948 I wish I could agree with the positive way you see it, but I think that your second point in many ways reveals the designer's (I'm sure unknown even to him) intentions. Black women are rarely depicted as feminine in popular culture - as virginal, or the damsel in distress. They are often masculinized in the way you just mentioned, and this far precedes the BLM movement.

  • @kaitlynbrouillet6978
    @kaitlynbrouillet6978 3 ปีที่แล้ว +472

    You said exactly what I was thinking about the masculinization of black women. Love that I can count on you to question these things and point them out to people who might be unconscious of it!

    • @em84c
      @em84c 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      People consider black women masculine?! I guess black women are often seen as outgoing, strong and/or regal which can be masculine. When just as many are shy and sweet. Come to think of it, you rarely see a girly big fluffy pink dress modelled on a black girl. They would choose a fair blonde girl.

    • @lanik4072
      @lanik4072 3 ปีที่แล้ว +22

      @@em84c masculinity and black women have been a long time stereotype in society, I’m surprised you didn’t know but again this is more well known within Western societies such as the US.

  • @shefalee9882
    @shefalee9882 3 ปีที่แล้ว +464

    Iris van harpen's collection is something you would wear if you are in a "sci-fi futuristic movie where people live in mars and metgala is organised by different planets each year"...I just fell in love with it❤️❤️

    • @julierose6254
      @julierose6254 3 ปีที่แล้ว +19

      i loved how the garments moved...there wasn't much there that i didn't like but I'm in my 50's and wear concert tshirts and hiking boots. I have no fashion style at all but man, that shit was beautiful!

    • @leila_de_hautjardin
      @leila_de_hautjardin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      I have always wanted Iris Van Herpen to work be the costume designer for a science fiction movie 😍I Can totally imagine a princess wearing one of these dress to a ball in year 3500 on Mars (Bridgerton x futurism x Iris Van Herpen needs to happen 😂)

    • @saniyat_11
      @saniyat_11 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      She should do something for Marvel

    • @saniyat_11
      @saniyat_11 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Eternals would have been a great choice

    • @emilybeach238
      @emilybeach238 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      when i heard "inspired by mushrooms" and "rebirth" and then saw the garments i definitely thought there was some psychedelic influence

  • @Mali-uz5ik
    @Mali-uz5ik 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1253

    Pointing out that they did not put the masculine pieces on the white model was necessary thank you

    • @nafulakato1852
      @nafulakato1852 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

      HUGE POINT!

    • @nafulakato1852
      @nafulakato1852 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @@kloy.m341 right?! it would have been slick

    • @Introvertsan
      @Introvertsan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      That's exactly what I thought first and was disgusted by that

    • @louisaugustexvi4515
      @louisaugustexvi4515 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      @@Introvertsan it really wasn’t a huge problem- the collection is my favorite so far this year, it could be taken as black women being strong and powerful after the tough year we have had. it most definitely was not a purposeful thing but something that subconsciously the designer might have done.

    • @uluvjordan
      @uluvjordan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

      @@louisaugustexvi4515 I think thats the point... many black women are speaking of not wanting to be constantly seen as being "strong." This perception is actually harmful in many contexts including medical.

  • @andreabala9657
    @andreabala9657 3 ปีที่แล้ว +820

    Iris van Harpen and Schiaparelli snapped

    • @jessicacantu3394
      @jessicacantu3394 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      Yes, they did!!!

    • @firstnamelastname8868
      @firstnamelastname8868 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      A million percent agree!

    • @abecharles7652
      @abecharles7652 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      So much fun on the schiaparelli ones ❤️❤️

    • @MonumentToSin
      @MonumentToSin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      This was the first time in a long time that I was actually impressed by Schiaparelli. I had thought they lost their magic years ago.

    • @miguelh8243
      @miguelh8243 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Definitely! If I had money to buy HC, it would definitely be Schiaparelli's pieces!

  • @ramonaflowers2813
    @ramonaflowers2813 3 ปีที่แล้ว +639

    When I saw the nails I immediately thought if the women who are guiness world record holders. There was a point in time they were looked down on now look at everyone getting 12 inch acrylics. I also thought it was interesting that evey black model had a tough masculine design and even posed to suit

    • @blackcat6508
      @blackcat6508 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

      I still look down on people with such big nails, like ewwww don't want to imagine all the dirty under the nails and between the cheeks lol

    • @ramonaflowers2813
      @ramonaflowers2813 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@blackcat6508 to each it's own I love them on other people not for me

    • @heavenlyboy9698
      @heavenlyboy9698 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

      I too thought it was interesting that the black models were wearing the masculine design and I think it’s kind of insensitive. Black women are already so heavily masculinized and I think that they should have at least evened out the designs between the models.

    • @magdalenamikulic4782
      @magdalenamikulic4782 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@blackcat6508 so you just assume people don't have basic hygiene? Like, you know people clean their nails and wash their hands??? No matter the length, it's basic hygiene

    • @walksthroughlife900
      @walksthroughlife900 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@magdalenamikulic4782 well, I work in the medical field, and we are all required to keep our nails short to reduce the rate of infections. There is evidence that short nails are more hygienic. Whether this means we should look down on someone with long nails is another story.

  • @gabilinharessongs
    @gabilinharessongs 3 ปีที่แล้ว +467

    everyone is probably gonna hate me and yell at me but I actually enjoyed the dior collection, and thought some of the pieces were absolutely beautiful

    • @kitcatontube
      @kitcatontube 3 ปีที่แล้ว +80

      Got to say I agree. Also saw how the opening dress was made, and the craftsmanship is incredible. .they used traditional etching and printing, hand painting the flowers on and then embroidering on top.

    • @espeon871
      @espeon871 3 ปีที่แล้ว +38

      I really like dior’s ready to wear because they’re super wearable and with proper styling, versatile. For me, her newer work is super nice and beautiful especially the sheer dresses in this collection

    • @mnels5214
      @mnels5214 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      I thought it was lovely, too

    • @xochitllamora4756
      @xochitllamora4756 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      Same! I immediately looked up sheer button up blouses lol

    • @foxycinnamon7307
      @foxycinnamon7307 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      Same! Some of it was amazing, I would wear that cape/robe thing to the Pope's balcony or the opera, if there were opera.

  • @mollyyonhin
    @mollyyonhin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +234

    The long nails reminded me of Chinese culture when women grew out and decorated their nails to show their high social status ✨ I remember seeing photos of empress dowager Cixi and how lavish they looked 👀

    • @iamme5567
      @iamme5567 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

      Me too, I mainly thought of the aristocratic and royal women with long, naturally, decorated nails

    • @tittylicker5320
      @tittylicker5320 3 ปีที่แล้ว +26

      the long nails reminded me of black culture because everyone on tiktok today definitely isnt getting long nails because of empress dowager cixi. not to erase the fact that long nails definitely were prominent in high class culture in asia, but they werent the ones subject to ridicule in schools like the average black kid with long, clacking acrylics were lol

    • @em84c
      @em84c 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@tittylicker5320 in my school we weren't even allowed to wear nail polish let alone acrylics! 😭

    • @IrisT-bn7qy
      @IrisT-bn7qy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +45

      @@tittylicker5320 A lot of couture clients are from Asia, and I don't think this show was a western-country-exclusive one. So I suppose the nails can remind different people of different elements in their own culture. I guess American clients will see it as a reference to the acrylic nails pioneered by black women, and Chinese clients will definitely think about the Empress Dowager Cixi.

    • @mollyyonhin
      @mollyyonhin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      @@tittylicker5320 of course ! I only meant to share what I was reminded of not to claim anything. I am not American so the immediate reference to long nails in black culture didn’t come to me (as I’m sure asian culture didn’t come to you) I’m always interested to learn and hear about other people’s experiences and culture 😊 hopefully all cultures of long nails can come to be admired and respected 👍

  • @jessicacantu3394
    @jessicacantu3394 3 ปีที่แล้ว +263

    The plus size model is Sevdaliza. I am not suprised about her walking for IVH. Her music and the IVH brand make so much sense together (at least for me)

    • @fcs4710
      @fcs4710 3 ปีที่แล้ว +19

      Is she even plus size?

    • @jessicacantu3394
      @jessicacantu3394 3 ปีที่แล้ว +22

      @@fcs4710 I definitely don't see her as one, but Luke said "the plus size model." I know I am at least double her size 🤣

    • @TheUntitledSimmer
      @TheUntitledSimmer 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

      @@fcs4710 Right, I feel like she just has an athletic build

    • @nv2605
      @nv2605 3 ปีที่แล้ว +24

      @@fcs4710 i would say she is normal size, she was even a pro athlete when she was younger.

    • @bellasundstrom4933
      @bellasundstrom4933 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      @@TheUntitledSimmer Yes, though in fashion she is considerd plus zise

  • @anna-px3ty
    @anna-px3ty 3 ปีที่แล้ว +174

    Anybody else had the impression that at the Iris van Herpen show the shoes didn't fit a lot of models properly? Many had a weird and un-elegant walk in my opinion

    • @d.c.7285
      @d.c.7285 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      Yes! I couldn't look at how they walked.

    • @XDelmisterio
      @XDelmisterio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

      The shoes were made by kira goodey, she design the namilia renaissance shoes ss19, and she usually is really good but idk what happened here

    • @Elophee
      @Elophee 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

      I had the same impression! The shoes looked wobbly.

    • @Gisechan
      @Gisechan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

      Yes. I didn't like the shoes and they looked uncomfortable as hell. The models seemed barely able to walk.

    • @stephanierichards1096
      @stephanierichards1096 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      agree. had me wondering what other shoes should be worn

  • @aidenhasani3628
    @aidenhasani3628 3 ปีที่แล้ว +77

    Too the models of Schiaparelli: Are your ears ok?

  • @Karolina-jo8yd
    @Karolina-jo8yd 3 ปีที่แล้ว +209

    is it my speakers or the sound is just terrible?

    • @bluebarrufina
      @bluebarrufina 3 ปีที่แล้ว +45

      Totally agreed, the adio is really bad in this video

    • @aspannas
      @aspannas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

      No it's really bad, it kind of hurts my ears even though I turned the volume down. Something obviously went wrong

    • @annanaydenova8321
      @annanaydenova8321 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      it makes it so hard to watch ;(((

    • @maxchilton1967
      @maxchilton1967 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      yea it’s just a bit crunchy

    • @Chililotte
      @Chililotte 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

      It sounds normal to me... Maybe its fixed now

  • @rena9733
    @rena9733 3 ปีที่แล้ว +65

    Hey Luke! About the finger nails I agree! I just want to add that the Chinese also have a history of long extended nails. Especially with nail caps in gold as seen on the Schiaparelli model. It’s been worn during the Qing dynasty!

  • @p0lyf0nisk
    @p0lyf0nisk 3 ปีที่แล้ว +288

    "But with this, everyone can have one." Getting plastic surgery to get 6-pack is cheaper than getting one of Schiaparelli's bodices..

    • @em84c
      @em84c 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Yea it's more of a lazy of getting one though 😆 No working out or surgery..but you have to be rich. Lucky I don't want a 6 pack. It would make more sense to make it for menswear.

    • @candle4864
      @candle4864 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      @@em84c but it being for men’swear wouldn’t be as meaningful , the whole idea of it being women having these symbols of masculinity is very interesting while on men it wouldn’t

    • @bums009
      @bums009 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@candle4864 yeah sure that's what makes it interesting but not many people will wear it. Which is ofc fine since that only lends to its exclusivity.

    • @jamiecrucefix4078
      @jamiecrucefix4078 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I think i'll buy six pack.of beer

    • @TheBeautifulWindsofAragon
      @TheBeautifulWindsofAragon 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jamiecrucefix4078 😁

  • @hubineer4128
    @hubineer4128 3 ปีที่แล้ว +613

    I think the plus-sized model youre referring to in IVH's runway is Sevdaliza.

    • @msship8234
      @msship8234 3 ปีที่แล้ว +193

      I'm still mindblown by the fact that Sevdaliza would be plus-size!

    • @giovanni2585
      @giovanni2585 3 ปีที่แล้ว +80

      He doesn't know Sevdaliza?

    • @XDelmisterio
      @XDelmisterio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +139

      @@giovanni2585 hes not gay enough

    • @stellaskopal
      @stellaskopal 3 ปีที่แล้ว +56

      Every video from Sevdaliza is an artwork in its own right. Start with "Marilyn Monroe". Must watch, Luke!
      Video for "That other girl" actually presents something very similar to Schiaparelli corsets.

    • @TheReverenceProject
      @TheReverenceProject 3 ปีที่แล้ว +66

      The fact that she would be considered plus-sized🙃

  • @darkovanderbilt5834
    @darkovanderbilt5834 3 ปีที่แล้ว +68

    Luke, if Maria Grazia is behind the camera holding a gun and making you give her a positive review, blink three times or wear yellow on your next insta photo! #FreeLuke

  • @salsaplease
    @salsaplease 3 ปีที่แล้ว +53

    i kind of love Dior's collection.. it feels like I'm living in a Renaissance painting

  • @imanimosley
    @imanimosley 3 ปีที่แล้ว +62

    i am ALWAYS here for Luke’s investigations & critiques on race & fashion. whoever says “stop bringing race into it” can take every damn seat.

  • @wildhearses
    @wildhearses 3 ปีที่แล้ว +66

    I kind of liked the dior "fool" look and wish more of the looks were noticeably tarrot related, though I love the blue gown alot more knowing it's meant to represent death.

  • @elizabethvarda2707
    @elizabethvarda2707 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    This Dior collection in my opinion was the best one they have had in a while because it had more than two good looks

  • @danielpickton-allen8385
    @danielpickton-allen8385 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

    The photography is rather beautiful for Dior, even if the clothes aren’t always so great, at least in my opinion.

  • @fakenamington6747
    @fakenamington6747 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Im obsessed with the photography from the dior collection. Im a painter and I admire how they're able to mimic the style and the look of the period. The lighting is gorgeous tho and I can't fathom how they got the softness of it.

  • @FairyHriikka
    @FairyHriikka 3 ปีที่แล้ว +40

    I couldn't help but notice you're wearing Marimekko's jacket! As a finn I'm super intrigued to know do you like Marimekko as a brand or only that one specific print/jacket?

    • @FairyHriikka
      @FairyHriikka 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @ada_cant thanks! I was wondering where he got it, bc I have never seen Marimekko sell that kind of a jacket in Finland. But I totally forgot the uniqlo collab (we don’t have uniqlo stores here). I saw uniqlo sell a jumpsuit with that same print as I was traveling in Thailand, but sadly chose not to buy it. Regrets..

  • @rebekkaahrensbach3614
    @rebekkaahrensbach3614 3 ปีที่แล้ว +97

    I need Iris Van Herpen to make the dress from barbi and the swan lake so bad its litterally up her ally with Ombre effect, and feather cutouts now im not saying it should be identical to the one from the movie but i would die

    • @pindebraende
      @pindebraende 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      det kunne være ret fucking sejt

  • @soundarya6790
    @soundarya6790 3 ปีที่แล้ว +44

    I absolutely loved Schiaperelli!. It oozed camp and class and all the outfits were beyond stunning especially the blazer with the squiggly embroidery 💕💕

  • @getitgotit19
    @getitgotit19 3 ปีที่แล้ว +120

    For the long nails, it's hard to tell but if the model was of Chinese decent, it could be a call to the long fake nails noblewoman wore during the Ming Dynasty. Also, nail salon workers are often (or at least depicted as) Asian.

    • @louisaugustexvi4515
      @louisaugustexvi4515 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      no, it is true that nails have become part of Asian American’s culture. they have I wanna say like at least a 30% stake in the market? around 130k nail salons in the us are asian owned typically Vietnamese. And they’re proud of it too ❤️♥️

  • @eloisemusgrove6210
    @eloisemusgrove6210 3 ปีที่แล้ว +49

    are you gonna review HAIM’s vogue outfits??? they’re a great band too!!!

  • @Stringbean670
    @Stringbean670 3 ปีที่แล้ว +22

    I really think Luke would enjoy looking at the fashion of Jojo's Bizarre Adventure...

  • @ms.x1669
    @ms.x1669 3 ปีที่แล้ว +64

    Last time I came this early, I fell pregnant.

  • @lelemabry7
    @lelemabry7 3 ปีที่แล้ว +83

    9:05 you have to drop a fashion history video about charles james now and how his iconic sometimes phallic shaped designs(and how he was a bit of a dick himself) and revolutionized fashion and how they still are an inspo for so many other brands.

    • @carolineedlund4931
      @carolineedlund4931 3 ปีที่แล้ว +41

      I misread it as “James Charles”, and spent a good ten minutes on his website trying to figure out how his merch changed fashion

    • @gwena9043
      @gwena9043 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@carolineedlund4931 same

    • @ariahazelwood3842
      @ariahazelwood3842 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@carolineedlund4931 😂😂😂

  • @dariofontana6040
    @dariofontana6040 3 ปีที่แล้ว +38

    Donatella's Versace Atelier fall 2012 tarot inspired collection was way BETTER than Maria Disgrazia' Dior collection 🤷

  • @teddomingo6676
    @teddomingo6676 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    The long nails is not entirely or only about Black culture. It's been documented earlier on in Asian History and recent culture.

  • @tpwk1836
    @tpwk1836 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    I would love to see you roasting the shit out of your subscribers fashion choices🤗
    AND reacting to old award shows! I mean Pink at the VMA's 2000 was...a...thing... I guess😅

  • @irenemontesinos5389
    @irenemontesinos5389 3 ปีที่แล้ว +60

    I'm kinda sad bc of Dior's idea and base this season because it could have been really interesting but as usual.. I'm bored. I have to admit that some looks are interesting and all of them were beautiful but there was a lost chance

    • @anhthynguyen9253
      @anhthynguyen9253 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Yeah, I mean why Maria keeps sticking with gardening, horoscope, and now this. It's like new patterns for every new collection. She's playing safe and easy access to the customers ( maybe that explained how well Dior is doing) but it lacks. Especially this is Haute Couture and it looks like regular season's stuffs.

    • @Becca11389
      @Becca11389 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      you can do SO much with tarot as well and while some of the designs worked really well, there were others where you could tell that they could have done so much more. The Fool dress for example, the bodice with the dog on it was a fantastic nod to the card but then they went in the "jester" direction and it's like no you are missing the Point of that card. it's meant to be Zero, a new beginning and infinite possibilities, it's a "not looking before you leap and being swept up in it all" kind of card. they could have gone with something more delicate, young, and fanciful and then really ramped it up as we went and built off that. instead it reall stood out from the rest of the collection as far as the style went but not in a particularly good way imo. the tarot is a story read in order, things are meant to have a natural progression from one to the next, hence why the cards are numbered, they could have leaned into that so much but ugghhhh there's so many missed opporunities!

  • @gummypoppa
    @gummypoppa 3 ปีที่แล้ว +26

    That pink Schiaparelli gown is making me lose my mind 😳

  • @AnkaBananka111
    @AnkaBananka111 3 ปีที่แล้ว +15

    I think this is the nicest you have talked about any Dior collection haha

  • @quincylhoward
    @quincylhoward 3 ปีที่แล้ว +26

    When I saw the schiaparelli and iris van herpen collection I wanted every piece in my special closet

  • @suzieplum05
    @suzieplum05 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Why does a piece of clothing have to be revolutionary every time. Cant it just be beautiful.. ?

  • @XDelmisterio
    @XDelmisterio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    The name of the "plus size model" is sevdaliza and its a great singeeeer!!!!!!

    • @natya3121
      @natya3121 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      I can’t believe she’s considered plus size

    • @nv2605
      @nv2605 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@natya3121 me neither 🙈

    • @XDelmisterio
      @XDelmisterio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      If she is "plus size" i dont now what i am 😅

  • @Hadouken65
    @Hadouken65 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    I wonder would there be an equally negative reaction to those nails being used on a black model?
    Ive heard black people speaking on them being negatively associated / labelled as ‘ghetto’.
    Would appreciate constructive feedback.

    • @StephanieLeighG
      @StephanieLeighG 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Exactly! Him saying that long ass fake nails should only be shown on black models is like saying watermelon themed prints should only be shown on black models. I suppose he’s trying to be especially racially sensitive and that might be worth something, but anybody who’s gonna throw around accusations of racial insensitivity likes it free candy should at least take a moment to think about what they’re saying.

    • @louisaugustexvi4515
      @louisaugustexvi4515 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@StephanieLeighG spilled.

  • @hejitsmia
    @hejitsmia 3 ปีที่แล้ว +35

    Waaaait Luke!! The earrings don’t hold up the dress!! Someone had to clarify that it’s actually a headband 😄 I thought it was her earrings too much like many others haha

    • @anna-px3ty
      @anna-px3ty 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      I was wondering why her ears didn’t look stretched from the weight of the fabric but that explains a lot

  • @maybolh
    @maybolh 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    The Dior jacquard robe is divine. I would wearing it while lounging on my couch, eating ice cream from the tub, and binge watching Project Runway.

  • @sarahb1851
    @sarahb1851 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    “it’s ugly. thus i don’t care” CRYING

  • @julissaxtorres172
    @julissaxtorres172 3 ปีที่แล้ว +15

    i was also wondering why schiaparelli decided to put all the masculine forms on the black model, glad you talked about it

    • @em84c
      @em84c 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I've never thought of black women as masculine. I wonder why they did. Is that a thing? (Black women being masculinised?)

    • @AmandaVieiraMamaesouCult
      @AmandaVieiraMamaesouCult 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@em84c Yes, Black women are often criticized for being less feminine than white women

    • @louisaugustexvi4515
      @louisaugustexvi4515 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@AmandaVieiraMamaesouCult it sucks because then you have beautiful powerful black women like Michelle Obama, who is strong, and elegant. But people will attack her for being “a man” or being “trans” its awful.

  • @samsonclay6710
    @samsonclay6710 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    I can not believe people don’t know who Sevdaliza is! Her walking for Iris Van Herpen is everything

  • @pauloguerreiro9470
    @pauloguerreiro9470 3 ปีที่แล้ว +39

    Long nails... India... Holy people... you are very america-centric. Also...Guiness book of records? Please!!!!

    • @aunonmars6591
      @aunonmars6591 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      i know right gold long nails is very indian to me

    • @renatabazilio
      @renatabazilio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      Yeah. They do believe USA is the whole world and they created everything.

    • @aspannas
      @aspannas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

      Not surprised, not the first time he is oblivious to anything outside of the US. I mean he pretty much sees all of Europe as the same as well. I remember how ignorant he was when he talked about slavic culture and people. I love his content but he can be quite ignorant sometimes.

    • @ladida9084
      @ladida9084 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah

    • @epasuxelar4473
      @epasuxelar4473 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Yeah I really wish he would educated himself on other cultures as well. It would make him a better fashion journalist at the least.

  • @LucasLima-ou3sz
    @LucasLima-ou3sz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Sevdaliza plus size?

    • @nv2605
      @nv2605 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I know, right 🙈. I mean she is not size 0 or 2 (I guess in fashion world that is a +)-but she is really fit, she was pro athlete even.
      I would consider her normal girl.

  • @misscameroun237
    @misscameroun237 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Guys, I don’t wanna be rude but as a content creator, I think it’s very important to uplift the work of the creator before asking/suggesting anything else. I hope no one will take this the wrong way (and I also would be glad if Luke reviewed the Haim video because it was fun and I love the group) BUT it needed to be said. This took I am sure a LOT of work so let’s appreciate that.

    • @francisedward8713
      @francisedward8713 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      This is a fashion CRITIC channel. The key is in the name.

    • @misscameroun237
      @misscameroun237 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@francisedward8713 since when critic means « not recognizing the work of the content creator who spent hours to produce something that we can all enjoy for free » ? He does that in every video, we could do the same.

    • @em84c
      @em84c 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      So everyone has to compliment before suggesting a video idea? I think Luke knows we love his videos. People wouldn't be suggesting other ideas if they didn't love his content.

    • @francisedward8713
      @francisedward8713 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@misscameroun237 recognising the amount of work a “creator” puts into their work =/= uplifting a creator. PERIODT. it is not the job of a critic to uplift someone. but we can all agree, for example, that even though Maria grazias designs are boring and quite terrible, YES she puts a lot of work into it. duh. without putting hours in there would be nothing to criticise. so I think critics do recognise the amount of work it takes, but that does not determine whether something is subjectively good or bad. and similarly, if a critic wants to absolutely criticise something, then they CAN do so. anything that is put out there for people to see is fair game to critiques, even heavy handed ones. grow a thicker skin. c’est la vie.

  • @SheepasaurusRex
    @SheepasaurusRex 3 ปีที่แล้ว +46

    thank you for speaking up about the importance of recognizing black culture with the long nails! you were absolutely in the right to say that

    • @aliz4467
      @aliz4467 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      I hate to break it to you, but black women did not invent, nor are they owners of the exclusive rights to long nails. Like, I've worn long nails, my mom has worn long acrylic nails most of her life... just go look at the youtubers who currently wear long nails.
      I found that to be rather racist actually, this idea that only black women have ever had really long nails is just incorrect. Just because two black women held world records, does not make it exclusive to black culture. Like... seriously wtf...

    • @renatabazilio
      @renatabazilio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      Let's ignore the rest of the world, as usual. Long nails are Made in the USA. (BUT NO)

    • @user-xh6jk4mi8u
      @user-xh6jk4mi8u 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @@aliz4467 but that’s not what he said… like at all. Long nails like that have been a cultural staple of the black community and have been popular among black women longer than it has with other communities and the recent popularity of long acrylics is because of black women. It’s kind of like how other cultures have their own versions of beer, but people usually associate Germany with good beer because beer has been a German cultural staple for centuries.

    • @eugenefeur7844
      @eugenefeur7844 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      The long gold nails, are more associates with India and Thailand (fingernail dance/ Fawn Lep). I could be mistaken.

    • @aliz4467
      @aliz4467 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @@user-xh6jk4mi8u My issue with the idea he presented, is that long nails MUST refer to a black person, and thus be cultural appropriation. The only other references that may have led to that interpretation might have been the earrings in the collection, but to me that does not warrant the assumption either. It's like we just decided "these two black women deserve credit full for this" ignoring entirely international context. It's narrow minded.
      When I saw those rings, I did not think of a black woman. So when he brought it up I was rather confused. Hell, I've en seen men with nails that long, so it's not even exclusively female. Not everything deserves to be about race.

  • @gtx-dv2jq
    @gtx-dv2jq 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    The masculine outfits being on black models is making me sideeye ngl

    • @agdalanzarini8974
      @agdalanzarini8974 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Why is that? (Not questioning your feelings, just trying to understand your reasoning)

    • @gtx-dv2jq
      @gtx-dv2jq 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@agdalanzarini8974 black women being masculine is an old racist trope

  • @ameliagordon9979
    @ameliagordon9979 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I love IVH and am always impressed with her work, but I feel like her collections are becoming quite repetitive. I feel like I’ve already seen a lot of her new designs in past collections....

  • @hannahstahl1857
    @hannahstahl1857 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Iris Van Herpen’s was a work of pure art. It moved and breathed

  • @ryansoats581
    @ryansoats581 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Stan Sevdaliza modeling for Marinne Serre AND Ivh! Absolute icon. Highly reccomend her music too

  • @hannahaugustyniak11
    @hannahaugustyniak11 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Iris Van herpen’s glamorization of nature and science is honestly so refreshing, as the beauty space often feels a bit anti-intellectual. Plus it appeals to both my fashion, science, and sc-fi nerd sides

  • @artapples8417
    @artapples8417 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I couldn't help comparing in my mind what Lee McQueen would have done with Italian Renaissance as a collection.

  • @kylewade9005
    @kylewade9005 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Okay, I need those Schiaparelli boots with the gold toes ASAP!

  • @maisweetdevil7
    @maisweetdevil7 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    19:56 I think those motifs are a representation of the zodiac signs, no?

  • @nataliaalfonso2662
    @nataliaalfonso2662 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I definitely thought those long nails were more old world, like the supremely long nails on Indian gurus, or the giant gold fake nails from China.
    Either way that Schiaparelli collection was amazing. I want gold toes on all my shoes.

  • @darwin1057
    @darwin1057 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    You're always saying what everyone's thinking tysm for calling them out on it all

  • @six23ist
    @six23ist 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you for bringing race into your reviews. Race exists in fashion, so it deserves to be mentioned.

  • @MatthewParrella
    @MatthewParrella 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    i pissed when sevdaliza popped into the collection for ivh and I'm literally ok with sevdaliza turning into a beautiful fungi and overtaking my decaying corpse and turning me into yummy soil hehe

  • @yuhansungscoffee
    @yuhansungscoffee 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    50% of the comments: “The plus sized model’s name is”
    45% of the comments: The bodice on black women.
    5% of the comments: “Don’t hate me but I liked the Dior collection”

  • @Shaunalynn96
    @Shaunalynn96 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Would love to see a video on the fashion from Bling Empire!!

  • @xcobmi
    @xcobmi 3 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    I kind of hate these breastplates 😭

  • @michaeltreat2315
    @michaeltreat2315 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Long nails originated from India. They would grow their hair and nails to extreme lengths, so let’s stop acting like it’s exclusive to one race and only one race gets ‘made fun of’ or called ‘tacky’ for it. Long acrylic nails have been a staple for many girls since forever. ‘Jersey girls’ get made fun of and called tacky for having them for years. It’s not seen as business professional in most any work place they tell you to cut them down. As for the outfits the black women were placed in, idk how you find a strapless, skin tight, full body suit with heels to be ‘manly’ but moving on. There was also black women in dresses and feminine looks as well as with women in more ‘masculine’ pieces like those awful muscular shirts/body suits.

  • @catherineleslie-faye4302
    @catherineleslie-faye4302 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I can wear all the Dior looks, feel elegant and get compliments. Put me in the Schiaparelli clothing and I would get nothing but ridicule and mockery. The long enameled nails belong first to Imperial Chinese Culture so I would love to see them on Asian models. Iris Van Herpen's work is fantastic but would be too much on my body.

  • @kultakutrim
    @kultakutrim 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Which brand is this amazing coat you're wearing? it just really reminds me of Marimekko which is my all time favourite (being a Finnish person and all :) )

  • @meiday154
    @meiday154 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Putting Black women in masculine type clothing has a different implication than someone non-white wearing it, especially when the black woman has darker skin.
    Black women are always seen as strong and those who can take a lot of flack from the world but often to the point that they aren't worthy of protection because 'they're strong enough to take it' and dark skinned women get it worse because their dark skin makes them victim to colorism that views their skin tone as undesirable or male because of it's darkness.
    Whether he meant to or not no American designer (for the sake of the topic) is free from their unconscious bias against dark skinned black women no matter how well intentioned.
    I'm glad Luke mentioned it and I'm thankful that other commentators said the same thing! Thanks y'all 😊

  • @MissMustang98
    @MissMustang98 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    My God...the Iris van Herpen garments are stunning! Every one of them is interesting and beautiful. Wow!

  • @alibee85
    @alibee85 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I love your shirt, and agree with you on black women/ cultural appropriation by designers.
    Entertaining as always, thanks!

  • @JordanTAlexander
    @JordanTAlexander 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I WAS THINKING THE ABSOLUTE SAME! EVERY MASCULINE STYLE WAS ON A BLACK WOMEN. Not only black, but a dark skin, short haired 4c textured with a lean body. Even down to the make up being minimal. It just felt a tone deaf, but at the same time so loud. Schiaparelli continued to push the idea of "the strong black woman"/black women are inherently more masculine/black women aren't soft, sweet or delicate only their pale counter parts.

  • @fernandao.5001
    @fernandao.5001 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I think many pieces of the Dior collection are based on the archetypes of the major arcana, like the fool with the skirt you hated and the hierophant with the robe you didin't think was wearable

  • @axlk-hq8qf
    @axlk-hq8qf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    you did not just call SEVDALIZA a "plus size model" !!! I was screaming when I saw her walk, I wasn't expecting it at all. She's been working with Marine Serre too lately. But yeah definitely check out her music, she is truly mesmerizing & I'm so happy she's getting more and more exposure

  • @caketinfairy
    @caketinfairy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hey Luke, love your videos! I couldn't watch this one because the audio was so intense. Is this something you could fix? I have sensory issues and even when I turned it down to the lowest I could it was so loud

  • @KathBorup
    @KathBorup 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sorry but I cannot comprehend saying any of the dresses in Iris Van Herpen's are not groundbreaking. Every look is astonishingly beautiful and unique. The silhouettes and the textiles are pure art. Doing something so different with every look.

  • @vincentseebeck3373
    @vincentseebeck3373 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Fuuuuuuuuck Schiaparelli turnt it out!

  • @vigilmattnyc
    @vigilmattnyc 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    EXCEPT...a gown hung by ear hoops is NOT NEEDED. Its silly hokey moreover...disconcerning if not masochistic...lending itself to body mutilation. That 1 dress is wrong beyond itself for sure. OTHER THAN THAT....YOUR COMPLETELY ON POINT ;)

    • @sweetestgirlonearth
      @sweetestgirlonearth 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you look carefully its not attached to the ears. There is a headband to which the fabric is attached.

  • @janelledeloatch8355
    @janelledeloatch8355 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Please do Virgils menswear collection! I was dumfounded by it!

  • @laurenwestendorf2153
    @laurenwestendorf2153 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I didn't even THINK about the acrylic nails w Schiaparelli and how they should be on a Black model so thank you for bringing this up because you're right!! they SHOULD be on a Black model!!!

    • @aspannas
      @aspannas 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      facepalm, you really don't know much about the history of nails do you??

  • @Itsabe-xk3re
    @Itsabe-xk3re 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i will never understand why he calls himself a fashion critic when hes wearing that im sorry it had to be said

  • @silvermanandbuddy5111
    @silvermanandbuddy5111 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Excellent job, your critics were brilliant and completely on point

  • @tacedoherty1889
    @tacedoherty1889 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I LOVED the Dior collection and concept, fight me 😂

  • @annabell8306
    @annabell8306 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    YOU SHOULD DO A CLOSET TOUR FOR DEVON LEE CARLSON!!!

  • @emmaatkinson7379
    @emmaatkinson7379 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Dior has a collection "inspired" by Tarot. Of course they would.
    Thing is, while traditional tarot cards didn't originate with Romani people, cartomancy using tarot was practiced by them for an extremely long time as one of the few ways to make money, and as a spiritual practice - Roma folks were (and are) persecuted for it, along with other very important parts of their cultural heritage. It's not just a fun hobby or plaything or inspiration-source for white people to take and use willy nilly, it has a lot of meaning to it and involves a some deep history and connection to one's ancestors and spiritual practice. The Romani are the largest ethnic minority of Europe and are still persecuted and disenfranchised and dehumanized in daily life and legislature.
    Tldr: of course MGC did that.

    • @dars1311
      @dars1311 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      blah blah blah!

  • @mparstrikesback
    @mparstrikesback 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    THANK YOU for talking about the race! Nothing exists in a vacuum, and that includes fashion.

  • @scorpyniko7416
    @scorpyniko7416 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    The Iris van Harpen collection is always a delight for the eye and soul!

  • @adrianneguinzo
    @adrianneguinzo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    He was eating IVH up on his insta stories but his comments on this video is so downplayed. Hmm

  • @StreetLoungeVideo
    @StreetLoungeVideo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    The DIOR collection gives me very much GUCCI-2019 vibes, but on a more refine way, like for example if in 2019 AM would design the clothes for Chanel, how they would look like.

  • @GuiltyCosplay
    @GuiltyCosplay 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    18:40 this robe is serving Bram Stoker's Dracula (1992) realness

  • @PASSIONFORFASHION1
    @PASSIONFORFASHION1 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    IVH & Schiaparelli saved couture week (tho i’m still waiting for margiela, elie saab, zuhair & jpg)

  • @marcusking7779
    @marcusking7779 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I think the nail reference was to Lee Redmond, the record holder for long natural nails. I didn't a reference to acrylic nails would make a lot of sense for Schiaparelli, seeing that most of the gold casted items are from the natural body, i.e. eyes, noses, and toes.

    • @aspannas
      @aspannas 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Exactly

  • @chinonsokelechi1644
    @chinonsokelechi1644 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    PLEASE make a part 2 including valentino, giambattista and stephane rolland!

  • @Heedy770
    @Heedy770 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I feel like that the bar is so low for MGC that the pieces that are "fantastic" are good designs as ready to wear but not haute couture.

  • @douglasturner5951
    @douglasturner5951 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The long nails are a Chinese cultural thing!

  • @amedved1
    @amedved1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That sheer grey and silver dior gown is stunning, the photo is pretty and interesting enough to be an art piece lol

  • @emmaoneill3154
    @emmaoneill3154 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i wouldnt call that ivh model plus size

  • @lindahughes2289
    @lindahughes2289 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Van Herpin is a wonder, genius , artist !

  • @TajaMay
    @TajaMay 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You are always teaching the kids luke. I love to see it ❤

  • @ufo5974
    @ufo5974 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    After seeing Valentino haute couture this season, I suddenly don't dislike this Dior collection.