Hello Bob I have stopped years ago using honey B healthy because of the robbing an just use bleach when needed an that has worked out great for me in my feeding regiments . I still use the half gallon jars also . Mainly because it is easier for me to regulate the amount of feeding but it is a little more laborious but I have the time also the jars cost is lower than the feeders . My feeders are mounted in the back of my bottom boards an not in the entryway an to me I think that cuts down on the robbing some . Here in central NC our temperature are fairly warm so I can feed for quite a while if needed. I enjoy going back an looking at your older videos just to refresh my memory on different ways of doing things it just helps to keep me on my toes even though we do this every year after year . Thanks
9:48 For me, who is accustomed to the metric system, measuring volumes in cups, teaspoons, tablespoons etc. seem to be so rustic as in the middle ages . It so funny that people in one of the nations with the highest technical standards work like hunter-gatherer in their daily life.
You referred to Randy Oliver’s article on using bleach in sugar syrup. If I recall correctly, he found that measurable free chlorine was absent after about 8 hours, but the mold-inhibiting effect persisted.
Reference: Scientific beekeeping.com; under the heading “Bee nutrition”, the article is “Fat Bees, part 4”. “So I performed a simple experiment: I filled a quart jar of syrup every hour, adding bleach at 32 ppm, and immediately sealed each jar. At the end of 8 hours I had a series of chlorinated jars, from 1 - 8 hours old, plus an unchlorinated control. At that time I added 5ml of actively fermenting syrup to each jar, and placed them all in an incubator at 80°F. I expected to see a gradation of microbe growth after incubation, due to the stepping down of initial free chlorine concentrations. However, the result was that microbes grew only in the control jar. Even those chlorinated jars that showed zero ppm free chlorine by test, still completely stopped microbe growth for weeks! Apparently, the chlorine binds or reacts with the sugar in a reversible manner, and retains its germicidal qualities”.
Hello from România, Bob! I am watching your videos with great interest. You are doing a great job by sharing all your knowledge and experience. Thank you Bob! 🤗
Goog video Bob I have kept bees in the past and didn't have time with all that I had going on now that I'm slowing down and doing things that I enjoy getting back to 20 to 25 hives I loved in the past and ready to get back to where I was with it thanks for all the info.
Hello Bob, I have been using Thymol to preserve syrup for 40 years, where I operate at the forward edge of Atlantic weather fronts here in Ireland, Western Europe it is an essential tool to the healthy wintering of bees. Really enjoy your vilogs.
Love your videos. I use i gallon in box feeder. It is too small. I have tried buckets. I find they leak from time to time. I probably make them wrong. Interested in seeing you make them. Thanks
I have a problem with bees drowning in the frame feeders even though they are the ones that have ladders. I suspect it has to do with putting the Honey B Healthy or ProHealth in (it happens with any supplement I've used, and I've tried several at this point). I think they must get into a frenzy and push each other into the syrup? That's all I can figure. It doesn't happen with the straight sugar water. At any rate, I'm considering getting the jar feeders, they seem easier to fill, no chance of drowning the bees, and less disturbing to the bees too.
I mix thymol in my syrup when I feed. I disolve in everclear. Then mix. I mix it way to strong with no adverse effects on the bees. Thanks for the videos. I'm always picking some helpful up.
Hi Bob, like everyone else, I thank you for your knowledgeable and informative videos. I believe it takes courage and confidence to explain or 'give away' the many 'secrets of beekeeping' that you have determined over the years. You could so easily kept this knowledge to yourself, so again. thank you. I was wondering how long you would consider is too long for a small colony to have a jar or bucket feeder on top before fermentation becomes an issue in summer? Cheers Geoff Keiller, Adelaide Australia
Thanks. It depends on how thick it is. 2 to 1 will last longer than 1 to 1. I would say one week for 1 to 1 if nothing was done to curtail fermentation. Even at that you may begin to see (smell) signs of fermentation but the bees can handle a small amount.
BRAVO...very informative love your vids. When it comes to bleach I'm gonna try tht 2 suttin new for me but hey what we drink eat all have some or a kind so no probs. Thumbs up
I used a homemade version of Honey B healthy for a couple of years, didn't really see any compelling change in the health of the bees. I did experience robbing propensity on the returning visit to refill the feeders, probably due to the scent of essential oils. Trying to fill feeders from five-gallon buckets was pure chaos. I'm also in the same camp as you on the topic of using small amounts of bleach to retard mold growth and fermentation. In an urban setting, bees readily go to swimming pools for water if it's the most convenient water source. I have used slow-release chlorine tablets in the water tubs in yards that don't have a natural water source; and a couple capfuls per five gallons of sugar syrup in the feeders.
Thymol… would you happen to know what commercial Beekeper use? the amount of thymol in 1.5-1 syrup in 55 ga drum. Fall feeding and trying to clear up brood issues. I think I saw a article that the European 🐝 keepers put a couple table spoons 🥄 in a drum but the article was from 1920s.
Bleach is a strong oxidizer, and when it comes in contact with organic matter, it basically burns it up, causes a chemical reaction where the organic molecule is oxidized, thus destroying it. When you add bleach to clean water, it destroys the minimal organic matter in the water, including any bacteria etc, but then when there is no organic matter left, you have a percentage of unreacted bleach left sitting in the water. A city water system is required to have a certain ppm of residual chlorine at the customer faucet, which is achieved by adding enough bleach to react with all the organics, and still have a little left over. So the cleaner the water, the less chlorine has to be used to get that residual chlorine. So if city water really stinks, it's because it has a high organics level and they really have to dump the chlorine in! Oh, and the "chlorine" smell that you get from a pool or hot tub, or tap water, that is a little "different" from bleach, is not actually chlorine, it's the chloramines, basically partially reacted chlorine and organics, and means that the water has a lot of organics and not enough chlorine. "shocking" the water is adding enough chlorine to burn off the chloramines and finish oxidizing everything. Now, what does this chemistry essay have to do with bees? Lol Syrup is 67% organic matter, and 32 ppm is not enough to oxidize all that organic matter, and so it's logical that all the free chlorine is going to react with organic matter in a relatively short period of time, since it has an abundant supply of it. So you will never be able to get a residual of free chlorine, and while the end products of the oxidation of the sugar and chlorine may not be the best thing for the bees, it's also non reactive by then, and in a very low concentration, so you no longer have chlorine in the syrup, just some leftover oxidized sugar. In the first few hours, it will tend to impact the more sensitive spores and such, and while there is still free chlorine it can help sanitize the containers, but then it gets used up, but you also end up with partially sterilized syrup and containers, meaning that it won't ferment as fast. I am sure there are other interactions with the byproducts, some of which may be useful, but I am just looking at the chlorine life cycle. Bonus fact! When you get bleach on your skin, the slippery feeling isn't because bleach is slippery, but rather because it's breaking down the surface of your skin, and the oxidized skin molecules are slippery... Delightful isn't it? *laughs in Marvin the Martian*
Hi Bob and thanks for all the great info about methods and benefits associated with feeding sucrose syrup. I am considering trying some bucket feeders on migratory lids and have the following concerns. When the inverted bucket has been mostly depleted and therefore lacks weight, what keeps it in place on the hive, covering the feeder hole, in the event of severe winds associated with something like a pop-up thunderstorm? Even with a traditional telescopic cover that overlaps the hive body, we are schooled to keep a weight on there in the event an unusually high up draft should come along. A wide open feeder hole in a downpour seems like an invitation for dangerously wet bees and brood. What am I missing? Thanks.
Buckets blowing off can be a problem when they are brand new or in cool weather. In warm weather well used buckets tend to stick down with existing wax or propolis on the bucket or the bees stick them down. If we're concerned about it we simply put a red brick on top of the bucket and of course sometimes the wind blows so hard that nothing helps. In the summer good colonies will survive OK with an open hole in the rain. In cold weather it can be a death sentence.
Hey Bob thanks for all your videos. I find them both informative and enjoyable. You mentioned in a previous video that you used buckets with just a few holes in the plug with 1:1 sugar syrup to simulate the queen to lay. You say that you want to slowly feed to stimulate but not allow them to store the syrup. If I’m using the division board feeder how do I limit or throttle down how fast the bees take down the sugar syrup when using the division board feeder?
Hi Bob, In this video you state you will be experimenting with adding thymol to some syrup mixes, did you ever get around to that and if so, what did you think?
It would be interesting to see if Thymol in syrup has any effect on mites in the brood/hive. Looking forward to the results of thymol experiment when you get around to doing it. I really enjoy your videos and learning alot from them.
You can order them from us if you like. Call our store at 706 782 6722.
3 ปีที่แล้ว
Hello there. As far as I learned from a Turkish hobby beekeeper living in Sweden, they add white vinegar to the syrup they make so that it doesn't turn sour. Have you heard of it before? I'll try it when I make thin syrup this spring.
Vinegar and a little salt, apparently makes the syrup a closer ph level to nectar. I’ve seen the advertisement recipe that was handed out to beekeepers during ww2 so has been in practice for a long time.
@@bobbinnie9872 sorry I see there's a lot to chose from do u care to send the link to the 1s you use I've seen where u say drill the holes in but don't go through both sides because it will than leak out and the whole purpose is so the bees can drink but not drown with that bucket you show in the video has little cups and I'm not sure what 1 has them because it doesn't have but 1 picture and description I also like the fact that you have 1 size in 1 color than the other size in a different color If you would share the same 1s you use please I wanna thank you for the videos I'm a 1st year bee keeper and have learned so much from you thanks again
I run singles and want to feed in early spring to draw a second box of comb for nuc production. I'll feed again after stripping off supers, and again to make sure we are heavy going into winter. What size bucket would you recommend investing in? I really appreciate your videos and enjoyed seeing you at the hive life conference last year. I bumped into you briefly at the Thai restaurant. I'm looking forward to Sevierville.
If you can check and refill often I would choose one gallon to keep the syrup freshest. If not two will work OK. We usually use a two gallon in situations like you describe, unless it's a small colony, because we usually don't get back soon. I remember the Thai restaurant. See you in Sevierville.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you having never used one I have no idea what they look like and here in the north was wondering if they will work for our cold winters
If I was to build a small cooler of my own what temperatures would I seek to achieve? Is there one ideal temperature for it all or different temperatures for syrup, extracted comb, wax moth etc. Many thanks.
I bought 3 nuc and equipement this year and harvested over 300 lbs of honey and sold it for $8 a lb. Expenses were $2,000 plus so I came close to breaking even. This next year I may actually make a little profit - but it's a fun hobby. What hobby to you make money on? Not fishing or hunting.
@@russellkoopman3004 It depends if you sell the hunting and fishing supplies. Much like beekeeping the suppliers and bee breeders make the money. The trick is to keep them alive and healthy so that they can produce a crop of honey the following year.
Hello Bob I have stopped years ago using honey B healthy because of the robbing an just use bleach when needed an that has worked out great for me in my feeding regiments . I still use the half gallon jars also . Mainly because it is easier for me to regulate the amount of feeding but it is a little more laborious but I have the time also the jars cost is lower than the feeders . My feeders are mounted in the back of my bottom boards an not in the entryway an to me I think that cuts down on the robbing some . Here in central NC our temperature are fairly warm so I can feed for quite a while if needed. I enjoy going back an looking at your older videos just to refresh my memory on different ways of doing things it just helps to keep me on my toes even though we do this every year after year . Thanks
9:48
For me, who is accustomed to the metric system, measuring volumes in cups, teaspoons, tablespoons etc. seem to be so rustic as in the middle ages .
It so funny that people in one of the nations with the highest technical standards work like hunter-gatherer in their daily life.
i realize I am pretty off topic but does anyone know a good website to stream newly released movies online?
@Benjamin Franco Try Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
You referred to Randy Oliver’s article on using bleach in sugar syrup. If I recall correctly, he found that measurable free chlorine was absent after about 8 hours, but the mold-inhibiting effect persisted.
Reference: Scientific beekeeping.com; under the heading “Bee nutrition”, the article is “Fat Bees, part 4”.
“So I performed a simple experiment: I filled a quart jar of syrup every hour, adding bleach at 32 ppm, and immediately sealed each jar. At the end of 8 hours I had a series of chlorinated jars, from 1 - 8 hours old, plus an unchlorinated control. At that time I added 5ml of actively fermenting syrup to each jar, and placed them all in an incubator at 80°F. I expected to see a gradation of microbe growth after incubation, due to the stepping down of initial free chlorine concentrations. However, the result was that microbes grew only in the control jar. Even those chlorinated jars that showed zero ppm free chlorine by test, still completely stopped microbe growth for weeks! Apparently, the chlorine binds or reacts with the sugar in a reversible manner, and retains its germicidal qualities”.
I will look forward to hearing the results of your experiments with thymol in syrup.
Glad to see another video. Enjoyed our visit to Blue Ridge Honey Company and talking with you. Looking forward to January 8 & 9.
Hello from România, Bob! I am watching your videos with great interest. You are doing a great job by sharing all your knowledge and experience. Thank you Bob! 🤗
Salut, Iris. Ai gasit pe undeva o recomandare privind cantitatea de cristale de timol care se pune la un litru de sirop ? Multumesc.
Hello Mr Bob glad to see your making more videos 😉
Great video, new bee keeper here. your info is priceless!!
Goog video Bob I have kept bees in the past and didn't have time with all that I had going on now that I'm slowing down and doing things that I enjoy getting back to 20 to 25 hives I loved in the past and ready to get back to where I was with it thanks for all the info.
Hi Bob, really enjoy watching your videos. Keep it up! 😊👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your videos, hailing from Australia here. You are a wealth of knowledge!
Thank you, Bob. I really enjoy your videos and I appreciate the info
I will look forward the results of your experiments with thymol in syrup.
I had been waiting for this video, thanks Bob.
Hello Bob, I have been using Thymol to preserve syrup for 40 years, where I operate at the forward edge of Atlantic weather fronts here in Ireland, Western Europe it is an essential tool to the healthy wintering of bees. Really enjoy your vilogs.
Do you use only thymol in your syrup?
Hello mr. Morgan. Can tell us how much thymol cristal you add to one litre of sirup ? Thank you very much.
I stopped adding Honey Bee Healthy because of robbing issues too. Thanks Bob.
🐝Thanks for sharing friend!🐝
Love your videos. I use i gallon in box feeder. It is too small. I have tried buckets. I find they leak from time to time. I probably make them wrong. Interested in seeing you make them.
Thanks
I have a problem with bees drowning in the frame feeders even though they are the ones that have ladders. I suspect it has to do with putting the Honey B Healthy or ProHealth in (it happens with any supplement I've used, and I've tried several at this point). I think they must get into a frenzy and push each other into the syrup? That's all I can figure. It doesn't happen with the straight sugar water. At any rate, I'm considering getting the jar feeders, they seem easier to fill, no chance of drowning the bees, and less disturbing to the bees too.
I've been waiting for this one!
I mix thymol in my syrup when I feed. I disolve in everclear. Then mix. I mix it way to strong with no adverse effects on the bees. Thanks for the videos. I'm always picking some helpful up.
What concentration do you use? Everclear seems like a great idea.
@@dianetaylor6751about 1 cup of crystals then disolve. Watch fumes. This goes in 50 gallons of syrup. 1/2 cup probably plenty.
Hi Bob, like everyone else, I thank you for your knowledgeable and informative videos. I believe it takes courage and confidence to explain or 'give away' the many 'secrets of beekeeping' that you have determined over the years. You could so easily kept this knowledge to yourself, so again. thank you. I was wondering how long you would consider is too long for a small colony to have a jar or bucket feeder on top before fermentation becomes an issue in summer? Cheers Geoff Keiller, Adelaide Australia
Thanks. It depends on how thick it is. 2 to 1 will last longer than 1 to 1. I would say one week for 1 to 1 if nothing was done to curtail fermentation. Even at that you may begin to see (smell) signs of fermentation but the bees can handle a small amount.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob, I didn't realise is would begin fermentation that quickly.
We use a ratio of 1cup bleach to 55 gal.syrup for chalkbrood,seems to be an effective treatment.
BRAVO...very informative love your vids. When it comes to bleach I'm gonna try tht 2 suttin new for me but hey what we drink eat all have some or a kind so no probs. Thumbs up
ما هو المبيض الذي يضاف لشراب السكروز لمنع تخمرة. هل هو الكلور وما المقدار ?
I used a homemade version of Honey B healthy for a couple of years, didn't really see any compelling change in the health of the bees. I did experience robbing propensity on the returning visit to refill the feeders, probably due to the scent of essential oils. Trying to fill feeders from five-gallon buckets was pure chaos.
I'm also in the same camp as you on the topic of using small amounts of bleach to retard mold growth and fermentation. In an urban setting, bees readily go to swimming pools for water if it's the most convenient water source. I have used slow-release chlorine tablets in the water tubs in yards that don't have a natural water source; and a couple capfuls per five gallons of sugar syrup in the feeders.
Thymol… would you happen to know what commercial Beekeper use? the amount of thymol in 1.5-1 syrup in 55 ga drum.
Fall feeding and trying to clear up brood issues.
I think I saw a article that the European 🐝 keepers put a couple table spoons 🥄 in a drum but the article was from 1920s.
I honestly don't know. I have only heard of it being used.
Like from Romania ! thank you !
Can I prepare sugar syrup without any additives and there will be no harm to the bees?
Bleach is a strong oxidizer, and when it comes in contact with organic matter, it basically burns it up, causes a chemical reaction where the organic molecule is oxidized, thus destroying it.
When you add bleach to clean water, it destroys the minimal organic matter in the water, including any bacteria etc, but then when there is no organic matter left, you have a percentage of unreacted bleach left sitting in the water.
A city water system is required to have a certain ppm of residual chlorine at the customer faucet, which is achieved by adding enough bleach to react with all the organics, and still have a little left over.
So the cleaner the water, the less chlorine has to be used to get that residual chlorine.
So if city water really stinks, it's because it has a high organics level and they really have to dump the chlorine in!
Oh, and the "chlorine" smell that you get from a pool or hot tub, or tap water, that is a little "different" from bleach, is not actually chlorine, it's the chloramines, basically partially reacted chlorine and organics, and means that the water has a lot of organics and not enough chlorine.
"shocking" the water is adding enough chlorine to burn off the chloramines and finish oxidizing everything.
Now, what does this chemistry essay have to do with bees? Lol
Syrup is 67% organic matter, and 32 ppm is not enough to oxidize all that organic matter, and so it's logical that all the free chlorine is going to react with organic matter in a relatively short period of time, since it has an abundant supply of it.
So you will never be able to get a residual of free chlorine, and while the end products of the oxidation of the sugar and chlorine may not be the best thing for the bees, it's also non reactive by then, and in a very low concentration, so you no longer have chlorine in the syrup, just some leftover oxidized sugar.
In the first few hours, it will tend to impact the more sensitive spores and such, and while there is still free chlorine it can help sanitize the containers, but then it gets used up, but you also end up with partially sterilized syrup and containers, meaning that it won't ferment as fast.
I am sure there are other interactions with the byproducts, some of which may be useful, but I am just looking at the chlorine life cycle.
Bonus fact!
When you get bleach on your skin, the slippery feeling isn't because bleach is slippery, but rather because it's breaking down the surface of your skin, and the oxidized skin molecules are slippery...
Delightful isn't it?
*laughs in Marvin the Martian*
Very interesting, thank you. I may add your comment in the video description.
Hi Bob and thanks for all the great info about methods and benefits associated with feeding sucrose syrup. I am considering trying some bucket feeders on migratory lids and have the following concerns.
When the inverted bucket has been mostly depleted and therefore lacks weight, what keeps it in place on the hive, covering the feeder hole, in the event of severe winds associated with something like a pop-up thunderstorm?
Even with a traditional telescopic cover that overlaps the hive body, we are schooled to keep a weight on there in the event an unusually high up draft should come along.
A wide open feeder hole in a downpour seems like an invitation for dangerously wet bees and brood.
What am I missing?
Thanks.
Buckets blowing off can be a problem when they are brand new or in cool weather. In warm weather well used buckets tend to stick down with existing wax or propolis on the bucket or the bees stick them down. If we're concerned about it we simply put a red brick on top of the bucket and of course sometimes the wind blows so hard that nothing helps. In the summer good colonies will survive OK with an open hole in the rain. In cold weather it can be a death sentence.
Hey Bob thanks for all your videos. I find them both informative and enjoyable. You mentioned in a previous video that you used buckets with just a few holes in the plug with 1:1 sugar syrup to simulate the queen to lay. You say that you want to slowly feed to stimulate but not allow them to store the syrup. If I’m using the division board feeder how do I limit or throttle down how fast the bees take down the sugar syrup when using the division board feeder?
A good question that I don't have a good answer for. With a cap and ladder system you might try closing one hole.
Hi Bob,
In this video you state you will be experimenting with adding thymol to some syrup mixes, did you ever get around to that and if so, what did you think?
I haven't done it yet but still intend to.
It would be interesting to see if Thymol in syrup has any effect on mites in the brood/hive. Looking forward to the results of thymol experiment when you get around to doing it. I really enjoy your videos and learning alot from them.
Thanks for all. One Question, how to clean all these feeders?
Splash around a mild bleach solution, let sit for a minute and then rinse with hot water hose with a strong water nozzle.
IPurchased some food grade 2 gal buckets but I have been unable to find the plugs like you put in yours.
You can order them from us if you like. Call our store at 706 782 6722.
Hello there. As far as I learned from a Turkish hobby beekeeper living in Sweden, they add white vinegar to the syrup they make so that it doesn't turn sour. Have you heard of it before? I'll try it when I make thin syrup this spring.
I've heard of apple cider vinegar but have not tried it. I need to learn more about this.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you. Greetings from Turkey.
Vinegar and a little salt, apparently makes the syrup a closer ph level to nectar. I’ve seen the advertisement recipe that was handed out to beekeepers during ww2 so has been in practice for a long time.
Where do you buy your buckets?
Pipeline Packaging 4175 Royal Dr NW #700, Kennesaw, GA 30144 www.pipelinepackaging.com/
@@bobbinnie9872 sorry I see there's a lot to chose from do u care to send the link to the 1s you use I've seen where u say drill the holes in but don't go through both sides because it will than leak out and the whole purpose is so the bees can drink but not drown with that bucket you show in the video has little cups and I'm not sure what 1 has them because it doesn't have but 1 picture and description
I also like the fact that you have 1 size in 1 color than the other size in a different color
If you would share the same 1s you use please
I wanna thank you for the videos I'm a 1st year bee keeper and have learned so much from you thanks again
Can you add metabisophate to the syrup to stop it fermenting. Thats what I use in wine making
I'm not familiar with that so couldn't say.
I run singles and want to feed in early spring to draw a second box of comb for nuc production. I'll feed again after stripping off supers, and again to make sure we are heavy going into winter. What size bucket would you recommend investing in? I really appreciate your videos and enjoyed seeing you at the hive life conference last year. I bumped into you briefly at the Thai restaurant. I'm looking forward to Sevierville.
If you can check and refill often I would choose one gallon to keep the syrup freshest. If not two will work OK. We usually use a two gallon in situations like you describe, unless it's a small colony, because we usually don't get back soon. I remember the Thai restaurant. See you in Sevierville.
Hi there,
I would like to hear from you if it’s useful to feed the bees with auger paste in winter.
I'm not familiar with that type of feeding so I couldn't say.
Curious with the bucket method, what you do in the winter time with the hole in the lid?
We put a one piece 70G jar lid in the hole. It plugs it good.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you having never used one I have no idea what they look like and here in the north was wondering if they will work for our cold winters
@@bobbinnie9872 If I had watched part three it would have answered my question. Thanks again.
If I was to build a small cooler of my own what temperatures would I seek to achieve? Is there one ideal temperature for it all or different temperatures for syrup, extracted comb, wax moth etc. Many thanks.
45f will take care of all of that. If you're trying to hold comb honey, freezing it is best.
Good video Bob. What's your input on using apple cider vinegar in syrup?
Hi Mark. I've heard of people using it but I don't know much about it.
When do we use the recipe of 1 part sugar and 2 parts water
thank you very much
That concentration can be used in spring and summer.
Using a weak treatment can increase varroa resistance. So, thymol in syrup sounds like a bad idea.
It could be. I've been told by researchers that mites shouldn't build resistance to thymol so I don't know if it's a problem or not.
Bob do you sell any of your old queens that are for steel producing farewell if so please let me know OK I want to buy some
Sorry, not at this time.
*Grieg* Bleach *grief* - but to your point, bees love pools and its chlorinated water.
So using bucket feeders is there no top ventilation ?
With us, no. Only the hole we have for the buckets or jars.
What is your store address to order from
www.blueridgehoneycompany.com/
10:46 nice there’s always a way around governmental overreach
Hey I’ve been interested in getting into the bee keeping hobby how long in you’re opinion do you think it would take to become profitable...
If things go well, a few years to get in the black.
I bought 3 nuc and equipement this year and harvested over 300 lbs of honey and sold it for $8 a lb. Expenses were $2,000 plus so I came close to breaking even. This next year I may actually make a little profit - but it's a fun hobby. What hobby to you make money on? Not fishing or hunting.
@@russellkoopman3004 It depends if you sell the hunting and fishing supplies. Much like beekeeping the suppliers and bee breeders make the money.
The trick is to keep them alive and healthy so that they can produce a crop of honey the following year.
It works I have used it.
how do you treat for nosema?
We don't do anything for nosema and don't seem to have a problem.
Have you ever tried apple cider vinegar to alter the pH?
I know that some do it but I have not tried it.
Hive Alive has a lot of thymol in it
Where is part 1?
th-cam.com/video/-NKsGNcx5I0/w-d-xo.html
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank You😁
When you're saying bleach is that hydrogen peroxide?
Household bleach. It does its job and disapates quickly.
Maybe just put a tsp of lemon juice / gallon instead of chlorine? (acidic + ascorbic acid (vit-c) plus anti-pest control?)
I know of a few beekeepers that add citric acid but I've never done that and don't know much about it.
12:24
I’ll buy some frame feeders off you if you want!
We sell all three of these division board feeders at our store in Lakemont.
We use bleach in ours.
Same here. We've been doing it for at least 5 years, without any issues
@@kvadrad1 Percentage f bleach to syrup??
@@stephenwhite5421 about teaspoon/5gallon